Fancy Foam Models SST User manual

Rev. 2.0, 2-15-2012
Fancy Foam Models, LLC
635 Laramie Cir. Maize, Ks. 67101
.fancyfoam.com
SST (Sloper Steve Tribute) – Assembly Instructions.
The SST is a slope glider flying ing designed for
Ultrabatics. A thin symmetrical airfoil, light eight and
extra large elevons allo extreme aerobatic flight in even
the lightest lift.
These instructions ill cover the build of both the 30”
version and 48” version. Notes ill be provided
throughout these instructions about the fe differences in
the build.
Recommended Electronics:
It is up to the builder to decide ho light to build this kit.
The instructions are for the recommended build. It is your
option to deviate from this to make it lighter/less durable
or heavier/more durable.
Servos: (2) 9gram. - 48” SST
(2) 2.9gram – 30” SST
Receiver: 4-6 channel
Battery: 1 or 2 cell 600mah lipo – 48” SST
1 cell 360mah lipo – 30” SST
Transmitter: To achieve 90 deg up thro a computer radio
is required. Elevon mixing is also required.
Note: it is preferred that the receiver be able to take
direct 1 or 2 cell battery voltage. If not then you ill need
a voltage regulator/booster as required.
Build options:
The SST can be built to eight bet een 7 and 12oz
depending on ho light you ant it to be verses
durabiltity.
An ultralight build mainly involves using less covering. The
Tiplets are only covered around the perimeter. The ing
leading edge is covered and part of the elevons are
covered. You can use as small of a battery as you ant
and still get the CG correct.
A durable build ould involve covering the hole ing and
tiplets. You can run a bigger battery ith this build up to
about a 2s-700 mah.
Flying has sho n that there is not very much advantage
to getting belo 9oz eight so full covering can be done
ithout much concern.
In either case e recommend using a minimum of a
9gram servo due to the large size of the elevons.
Painting:
The covering is clear once it has been applied so painting
the bare foam orks ell. EPP is solvent resistant so
normal spray can paint like Krylon ill ork great.
Glue:
The recommended construction glue is Beacon Foam-Tac.
It is a clear contact adhesive that remains flexible hen
dry hich orks excellent ith the flexible EPP foam. It
can be used for general construction as ell as for hinging
the control surfaces.
Wing construction:
Glue the t o ing halves together. When the glue is dry,
use straight pins to hold the spar as sho n. The middle of
the spar should be about 7” from the leading edge . The
ends of the spar should be about 2” from the leading
edge.
Cut a slit in the foam near the 0.5 x 3mm carbon spar.
The cut can be made ¼” off of the carbon to make the
cutting easier. Turn the ing over and repeat on the
bottom trying to make sure the spars are lined up. Apply
glue to the cut and press the spar through the glue and
into the cut so it is flush or just belo the surface of the
ing. Straighten the ing so it is flat and let the glue
cure. Once the top side is done repeat on the bottom side.
Cut a slot and glue in a piece of 1.5mm x 6” carbon near
the trailing edge on the bottom.
Check the ing along the leading edge and make sure it is
straight. While the glue on the bottom spar is still et any
bends in the ing can be removed. Once you are happy
that the ing is straight, set it aside for an hour so the
glue ill set completely.
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Gear Placement:
Cut 4 pieces of covering for the top/bottom and left/right
sides. The pieces should be 1” larger than the ing on all
sides but only 1/4” over on the trailing edge. If you do not
get complete coverage ith the supplied film, make it
short on at the nose as this ill be covered last.
Tape the elevons to the trailing edge. Tape all the covering
to the top of the ing roughly in place. Tape the servos
roughly in place ith the carbon push rods as ell as the
receiver and the battery. Move the servos, receiver and
battery until you have the CG at 9-1/2” from the nose.
With the recommended components you should not have
to use any extra eight. Mark the position of the servos,
receiver and battery.
Cut out pockets for the servos, receiver and battery. It
may be easiest to cut all the ay through the foam and
remove the foam block. Cut out the center of the block to
make room for the component and then glue the top and
bottom foam pieces back in place ith the component
sand iched in place.
For the battery connection, I have the battery plug run
out the top of the ing and then leave a hole for it to plug
into the receiver.
Electronics installation:
Make a ne model on your radio and set it up for elevon
mixing. Change the end point and dual rate values to
150%. Plug the servos into the receiver and po er it up.
Center the control horn on the servo and then use sub
trim to rotate the servo arm about 20 deg aft. To get full
90 deg up on a JR/Spektrum radio you ill need to create
a mix that mixes elevator to elevator to increase the
elevator thro . Play ith the sub trim and travel adjust to
get the most thro that you can.
Cut a 1/4” deep slit from the servo pocket to the receiver
location. Glue the servos into their pockets. Push the
servo ire do n into the slit in the foam and plug them
into the receiver. Mount the receiver and battery in place
and glue their foam covers in place.
Covering:
If you are going for a light build, cut covering a minimum
of 4” ide and apply to the leading edge of the ing.
Cover from 1” in front of the hinge to 1/8” behind the
trailing edge of the elevons top and bottom.
For the medium eight build, cover the entire ing top
and bottom. Overlap around the leading edge by 1” and
extend behind the trailing edge 1/8”.
There should be a slight gap bet een the ing and elevon
at the hinge, about 1/16” so that the top and bottom
covering ill actually touch each other.
When you are done you can use a straight edge to trim
the covering at the trailing edge to 1/8” behind the foam
to give a nice thin edge.
The foam at the center from the left and right sides ill
over lap each other about 1” on each side. For the
covering at the tips, make sure the top and bottom pieces
over lap each other so they ill not pull apart.
Cut the covering from above the servo horns and the
receiver here the battery plugs in.
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Push rods:
Cut a slit in the elevons for the control horns. The control
horns are located so the push rod holes are 3/16”” behind
the hinge line. The elevon should be able to rotate up a
little past 90 deg before the control horn hits the ing.
Glue the control horns in place. I like using Hot Glue for
this as it is stiffer than Foam-Tac.
Cut 4 pieces of the 1/32” metal ire 1-1/2” long and 4
pieces of heat shrink tube 1” long. Cut the 1.5mm carbon
rod to length ¼” short of the hole to hole distance from
Control horn to servo arm ith the servo arm in the
neutral, tilted back position. Bend a z-bend on one end of
each of the metal ires. Insert the metal ire and carbon
rod into the heat shrink as sho n. Apply a drop of CA to
the end of the shrink tube and then shrink the tube. Use a
piece of cardboard covered ith aluminum foil to keep
from melting the foam.
Fins:
Cover the tip fins ith laminating film. Glue them to the
tip or use Leadfeathers bungy method described on the
RcGroups thread.
A final CG check can be done. You can set it bet een 9-
1/4 and 9-3/4” from the nose depending on ho you like
the feel. The further back the CG is the better it ill flip.
Have fun and be sure to post pictures and comments on
the RcGroups thread.
Thank You,
Mike & Niki Bailey
Fancy Foam Models
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