Fishman FULL CIRCLE UPRIGHT BASS PICKUP User manual

1
www.fishman.com
Read Me First!
Installation of this product is a simple procedure,
but we recommend this job only if you are an
experienced repair technician.
Requirements
The Full Circle is available in either ¼-20 or 6mm
thread format. Before you install the pickup,
confirm that the threads in the bridge will match
those on the Full Circle.
Installation
Observe the following
precautions!
• Before you install the Full Circle, confirm
that the wheels you are about to replace are
lined up well in the legs. The wheels must
be parallel and the posts perpendicular to
the cuts in the legs or the Full Circle may
become mechanically unstable on the
instrument (figure 1).
• Fishman Transducers will not be responsible
for damages to the pickup or the instrument
due to improperly installed wheels!
Retro-fit the Full Circle to a bridge with
installed wheels
The pickup is “hot” on the flat face of the wheel:
on the side with the non-threaded post. For good
performance it is crucial that the hot side of the
pickup lies absolutely flat with no gaps or voids
where it contacts the bridge. If necessary, sand the
wood flat where it contacts the wheel before you
install bridge on the bass (figure 1).
When you install the pickup, remove the RCA plug
from the back side of the output jack. Replace the
plug after the pickup is in place.
Setup
Once the wheels are mounted and the bass is tuned
up, thread the white wire through one of the wing
holes in the bridge and hold it in place with one of
the neoprene plugs from the kit (figure 2).
Fasten the output jack behind the bridge and
between two adjacent pairs of strings. Then fasten
the RCA plug into the back of the output jack.
Mind the gap!
For good pickup performance, leave a slight gap
between the threaded side of the wheel and the
wood. If you close the gap, the amplified sound will
become choked and muted (figure 2).
Height adjustment
Remove the RCA plug from the back of the output
jack so the white wire does not wrap around the
leg as you turn the wheel. Turn both wheels equal
amounts for good contact with the pickup. To pro-
long the life of the pickup, do not pinch the white
wire where it joins the wheel.
Tonal adjustments (figure 3)
Turn the wheel so the wire is perpendicular to the
leg and the pickup will have an open, resonant
response.
Turn the wheel 45 degrees so the wire faces one of
the corners and the tone will be somewhat drier and
more focused, with less output.
Fit the Full Circle to a bridge without
wheels
For maximum reliability and performance, the
wheels should be centered precisely within the
taper of the bridge.
Fit the bridge to the bass before you install the
wheels. Note that the wheel with the white wire
belongs under the E string.
There is a subtle tonal difference between “threads
up” and “threads down” position for the pickup.
FULL CIRCLE
INSTALLATION GUIDE
Hot Side
Good Bad
Gap
Figure 1
Figure 2

2
When you mount the Full Circle “threads down,” the
hot side of the pickup faces the strings. This trans-
lates to more defined articulation and attack, with a
slight emphasis on the “string” sound (figure 4).
When you mount the Full Circle “threads up,” the
hot side of the pickup faces the body of the bass.
You’ll get a bit more woody acoustic tone this way,
with a rounded attack and less “edge” (figure 4).
Lay out the bridge (figure 5)
The pickup will work best when the wheel is precisely
centered in the leg. To do this, carefully lay out the
appropriate lines ahead of time. You will be drawing
lines on the side of the bridge that faces the
fingerboard.
1. Use the line implied by the outside of each leg to
make parallel vertical lines down to each foot (line A ).
Option 1: threads down into the feet:
Make a mark on each leg no less than 1¼”
(31.75mm) from the bottom of line A.
Line up a straight edge on the marks and pencil in a
horizontal line on each leg (line B).
To accommodate the thickness of the wheel, make a
parallel set of lines (line C) 3⁄8” (9.5mm) below line B.
Option 2: threads up into the legs
Make a mark on each leg no less than 21⁄32”
(16.66mm) from the bottom of line A. Use a straight
edge on the marks and pencil in a horizontal line on
each leg (line B).
To accommodate the thickness of the wheel, make
a parallel set of lines (line C) 3⁄8” (9.5mm) above
line B.
2. Find the center of line B on the face of each leg.
From these points make perpendicular lines down
to the foot (D). Continue across the bottom of the
foot (E).
3. Turn the bridge sideways and make a vertical line,
centered through the taper of the bridge (line F). Go
back to line B and continue it across the thickness of
the bridge, perpendicular to line F (both legs).
4. Finally, center a line (G) across the bottom length
of each foot.
Drill the legs and cut off the feet
Precision is crucial here. Use a drill press and a band
saw or table saw for these procedures.
Make a jig that will allow you to clamp the bridge
and align your layout marks for the drill. Two pieces
of ¾” Plywood or MDF fastened at 90° will do the
job. You will use a countersink, a #9 (5mm) drill bit
and the appropriate tap for this procedure (¼-20 or
6mm). To simplify the job, we recommend that you
use a so-called “extension” tap with a long reduced
diameter shank.
Your drill jig should hold the bridge firmly. Line
up the bridge (and shim if necessary) so that lines
D and F are centered with and parallel to the drill
bit. Double sided carpet tape makes an excellent
temporary clamp for the bridge while you drill.
Drier, more focused response.
Open, resonant response.
Figure 3
Threads Down Threads Up
Figure 4

www.fishman.com
Option 1: threads down (into feet)
Start each hole with a single flute countersink. Drill
the holes for the posts with a #9 (5mm) tap drill. Drill
to a depth of no less than 1¾” (44.45mm).
If you have an “extension tap,” use it now to tap the
threads to a depth of 1” (25.4mm) into the feet. If
you don’t have an extension tap, wait until you cut
off the feet to tap out the threads. In these cases,
start the tap from the top of the foot.
Before you cut off the feet, line up the “B” lines on
the legs so they are parallel to the saw blade. Place
the side of the bridge that faces the tailpiece down
towards the table. Line F must be perpendicular to
the blade or the wheels will not align properly. If
necessary, shim up the bridge to make line B parallel
and line F perpendicular to the saw blade. Double
sided carpet tape makes an excellent temporary
clamp while you cut.
After you cut off the feet, enlarge the holes in the
legs to ¼” (6.4mm) diameter.
Option 2: threads up (into legs)
Start a hole in one foot with a single flute counter-
sink. Then use a #9 (5mm) tap drill to plunge the
hole in one leg to a depth of at least 2” (50.8mm).
With the bridge still held in position from the first
hole, enlarge it to ¼” (6.4mm) diameter, to a depth
of 1” (25.4mm). Repeat this entire procedure for the
other leg.
Tap the appropriate threads into the legs. If you have
an “extension tap,” you will be able to thread all the
way into the bottom of the hole. If you don’t have an
“extension tap,” the threads won’t reach completely
into the legs. This is not a problem; you can go back
and finish tapping the threads after you cut off the
feet. But try to at least get the tap started into the
upper part of the legs. This will ensure good thread
alignment when you finish tapping after the feet are
cut off.
Before you cut off the feet, line up the “B” lines on
the legs so they are parallel to the saw blade. Place
the side of the bridge that faces the tailpiece down
towards the table. Line F must be perpendicular to
the blade or the wheels will not align properly. If
necessary, shim up the bridge. Double sided carpet
tape makes an excellent temporary clamp while you cut.
Fit the wheels
Once you have cut off the feet, fit the wheels with
the bridge off of the bass. The hot side of the pickup
should lay absolutely flat against the bridge, with no
gaps or voids. If necessary, sand the wood flat at the
contact point and/or increase the depth/diameter of
hole before installing the bridge on the bass (figure 1).
Setup
Once the wheels are mounted and the bass is tuned
up, thread the white wire through one of the wing
holes in the bridge and hold it in place with one of
the neoprene plugs from the kit (figure 2).
Fasten the output jack behind the bridge and
between two adjacent pairs of strings. Then fasten
the RCA plug into the back of the output jack.
514-300-111 Rev A 5-09
Threads into Feet
3/8”
(9.5 mm)
No Less Than
1 ¼” (31.75 mm)
Line A Line C
Line D
Line B
CDA
B
Line F
Threads into Legs
3/8”
(9.5 mm )
No Less Than
21/32” (16.66 mm)
Line A
Line C
Line D
Line B
C
D
ALine F
B
Line D
Line G
Line E
E
G
D
Figure 5