Freight Wing Aeroflex User manual

Aeroflex Belly Fairing Pre-Assembly
Manual
Freight Wing Incorporated
4015 49th Ave SW
Seattle, WA 98116
[e-mail]
TOLL FREE INSTALLATION HELP LINE: 866-464-9464
Copyright © 2010, Freight Wing Inc. Rev 8/1/10

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Introduction
The following manual will guide you through the procedure for assembling the Aeroflex panels
and rods. The procedure to takes approximately 1.5 man hours per unit once familiar with the
process, and is necessary for bulk packaged units only. Note that the procedure for installing the
assembled fairing on the trailer is outlined in a separate installation manual.
If we may be of assistance during the pre-assembly or at any time, please give us a call:
TOLL FREE INSTALLATION HELP LINE: 866-464-9464
What You Will Need
The following tools are needed to assemble the Freight Wing Aeroflex Fairing:
1. A 7/16”wrench with an open end
2. A 7/16” socket
3. A drill (preferably cordless with a clutch) to tighten nuts with
4. An allen (hex) key set
5. Anti seize lubricant (if needed for stainless hardware)
6. Barrier tape (2” wide clear packing tape) and a razor (if needed for steel I beams)
7. It is helpful to have a large table (approx 8’x4’) or elevated surface to work on
Parts List
Freight Wing
Part Number
Description
Qty per
Complete Unit
76-50174-02
Fastener Kit 12B (pre-assembly fasteners)
1
76-50174-01
Fastener Kit 12C (install fasteners)
1
44-50028-00
Hinge, Long (top)
6
44-50029-00
Hinge, Short (bottom)
16
58-50132-00
Panel Right Rear (RR)
1
58-50133-00
Panel Left Rear (LR)
1
58-50134-00
Panel Right Middle (RM)
1
58-50135-00
Panel Left Middle (LM)
1
58-50136-00
Panel Right Front (RF)
1
58-50137-00
Panel Left Front (LF)
1
68-50134-00
Backing Strip (Aluminum)
12
68-50132-00
Support Rod
16
68-50131-00
Clamp Tab
32
68-50133-00
Clamp Sleeve
16
68-50135-00
Square Hinge Washer
24

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Assembly Instructions
Important Notes:
The pre-assembly involves bolting the hinges to the panels. The process is simple, however
some organization is helpful. Each of the six panels in the fairing are different. The font, middle
and rear panels all have a left and right side as illustrated below. This is so that the natural curve
in the TPO plastic material faces inward toward the center of the trailer.
The panels are marked in the middle of the top edge with L, LM or LR for left front, left middle and
left rear or R, RM, RR for right front, right middle and right rear. The mark is routed all the way
through the panels so that it is visible on both sides. The lettering will appear backwards when
read from the side of the panel that faces out from the trailer (this side of the mark will be covered
by the top hinge when installed so that it is not visible). The marks read correctly from the inside
of the panels as illustrated below.
Inside of left front panel Inside of right rear panel

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It is also important to note that that middle and rear panels are slightly longer than the hinge so
that they can overlap when mounted on the trailer. Therefore the hinge will not extend over the
last slotted hole on the side of the panel with slotted holes along its edge as illustrated below on a
middle panel.
Also note that on the middle and front panels, it is not necessary to place one bolt in the hinge on
the side above the round holes as illustrated above. This bolt is placed during installation on the
trailer because the panels overlap.
If you are installing several units, it can help to identify the panels and organize them into six piles
for each panel type before getting started.

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Step 1: Barrier Tape the Hinges
When mounting the faring on trailers with steel cross members (typically dry vans), place
separation tape on the aluminum hinges to create a barrier that will separate the metals to
prevent corrosion. This step is not necessary when mounting on trailers with aluminum cross
members (typically reefers). Any corrosion barrier tape will work for this step, and 2” wide clear
packing tape (polypropylene) can also be used and is a perfect width (preferably heavy duty
packing tape that is thicker than standard tape).
1a. Gather 6 long hinges and place them closed on the table with the plain side (no fastener
holes) facing up.
1b. Place tape (2” wide clear packing tape) across each hinge so that the tape is flush with the
side edge of the hinge that is not pinned. Use a razor to cut the tape flush with either end.
When done with all 6 hinges place them aside. (It is useful to have a tape applicator if taping
multiple units).

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Step 2: Assemble the Long Hinge on the Panels
2a. Gather the ¼” carriage bolts, ¼” nylon insert lock nuts, and the ¼” plain nuts supplied.
2b. Place a panel on the table with the inside face of the panel upward. Important: The letters
marking the panel (LM, RR, etc) will read correctly (not backwards) when the inside
face of the panel is upward as illustrated below. If the letters read backwards (like a
mirror image), the panel must be flipped over. The long top edge with holes should be
oriented towards you on the table.
2c. Place a slightly opened hinge in front of the panel as illustrated below, with the pin facing the
panel and the fastener holes facing up.

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2d. With the hinge slightly open, place carriage bolts in the square fastener holes.
Note- If the panel is a front or middle panel, do not place one bolt in the hole on the side of the
hinge corresponding to round holes on the side of the panel as illustrated below and in the
figures on p. 3-4. Bolts will go in all the holes on rear panels only.
2e. Quickly flip the hinge leaf with bolts inserted over onto the table as shown below so the bolt
threads face upward.

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2f. Lift the panel slightly and place it onto the hinge so that the bolts go through the holes in the
panel. Note that most of the panel holes are slotted but the ones in the middle are round. It
therefore helps to start placing bolts in the middle at the round holes.
Note- If the panel is a rear or middle panel, the panel will extend beyond the hinge on the side
with two slotted holes that are close together as illustrated below.
2g. Take two backing strips and align their holes with the bolts. Place the strip over the bolts, and
push it flush against the panel. There will be a gap between strips in the middle of the panel.

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2h. Place the ¼” plain (non locking) hex nuts onto the top of the carriage bolts.
2i. Hand Tighten the ¼” plain hex nuts. It is important that the nuts are snug on the backing strip
but not tight. This allows the panels to expand and contract with temperature variations. As a
faster alternative to hand tightening, a cordless drill with a clutch and a very loose clutch
setting can be used (with a 7/16th socket). Because drills and clutches are different, check to
make sure it produces similar results to hand tightening before proceeding.
Note- It can help to pull the hinge off the side of the table so that you can seat the carriage bolts
in the square holes with your other hand as the nuts are tightened. Check for unseated
bolts as illustrated below before proceeding and correct if necessary.

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2j. Place a ¼” nylon insert lock nut onto the top of all the carriage bolts.
2k. This step is very important as it ensures that the expansion slots on the top of the
panels function correctly. Take a 7/16” wrench and loosen the 1st nut a quarter to a half
turn. The amount of this turn can depend on how tightly the 1st nut was fastened. You should
feel the tension ease indicating the nut has become loose and is not clamped tightly on the
panel. Now hold the 1st nut firmly in place with the 7/16” wrench, and fully tighten the 2nd lock
nut down on top of the 1st nut. This will create a secure “jam nut”connection without tightly
camping the panels together, so that the expansion slots work properly.
2l. Repeat the process for all six different panels in each unit.