FuzzDog Super Fuzz User manual

Super Fuzz
Uncompromising
ctave Fuzz
PedalParts.co.uk

Schematic
B M
R1 22K
R2 100K
R3 100K
R4 1K8
R5 47K
R6 470K
R7 10K
R8 47K
R9 3K3
R10 150K
R11 10K
R12 220K
R13 10K
R14 100K
R15 10K
R16 100K
R17 470R
R18 22K
R19 1K8
R20 22K
R21 47K
R22 470R
R23 10K
R24 22K
R25 10K
R26 100K (750K)
R27 15K (75K)
R28 10K (24K)
R29 1K (1K2)
R30 100K
R31 CLR (2K2)
C1 10u
C2 10u
C3 10u
C4 10u
C5 10u
C6 10u
C7 10u
C8 100n
C9 10u
C10 10u
C11 1n
C12 100n
C13 10u
C14 10u
C15 2n2*
C16 100u
Q1-6 2N5088**
D1,2 1N34A
D3 1N4001
D4,5 1N4148***
CT 10K TRIM
EXP 50KB
V L 50KB
T NE SPDT N N
DI DE SPDT N N
Alternative values shown in blue are from the Wattson EFY-6 version of the Superfuzz, giving higher output.
*sometimes shown as 1n
**any low-ish gain NPN silicon transistors can be experimented with, i.e. 2N222A, 2N3904, BC107
***optional. Don’t bother putting them in if you’re not using the diode selection switch. ther diodes can be
experimented with.

Wiring shown overleaf will
disconnect the battery when you
remove the jack plug from the
input, and also when a DC plug is
inserted.
Snap the little metal tag off the
pots to mount them flush in the
box.
You should use some kind of heat
sink on the legs of the transistors
and diodes when soldering. They
aren’t keen on heat. Any more
than a couple of seconds of iron
and they’re toast.
Recommended assembly order:
Resistors, Caps, Transistors,
Diodes, Wires, Pots
I’ve incorporated the Current Limiting Resistor for the LED into the board for your pleasure.
Be VERY careful when bending the legs of the 1N34A. The glass case is very fragile and likely to
break. Best to hold the leg with some needle-nosed pliers against the case, and bend the leg
with your finger so the pliers are taking any strain away from the diode.
If you aren’t using a diode selection switch, don’t bother soldering in D4 and D5, connect the two
switch pads as shown above (red line).
N TE: this is a fairly noisy circuit. There’s a L T of gain going on. Expect some hiss and fizz.
T NE BLEND M D
You can add a pot to blend between the two different tone modes, just like in the Wattson EFY-6.
We don’t really like it, but what the hey? You’ll still have the two different tone settings at either
end of the sweep.
Simply wire up a 100KB pot instead of the tone switch, numbered as shown above.
1 2 3
1
2
3

Test the board!
NDER NO CIRC MSTANCES will troubleshooting help
be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before
starting on the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down
troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this
stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what?
You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections
for 9V, GND, IN and O T. Connect IN and O T to the jacks as
shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a
small amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the
9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man.
At least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why,
get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.
BATTERY
IN OUT
Your nice, new circuit board
INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!
IN 9V GND OUT

Wire it up
The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the
board. You can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the
board, another to the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the O T jack.
It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip
Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals
(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
Now... FFF ZZZZZZZZZ!
PedalParts.co.uk
L
E
D
BOARD
OUT
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BATTERY
+
IN
OUT
L
E
D
BOARD
GND
BOARD
LED+
+