Glidecam X-20 Setup guide
Set-up and Operations Guide
Glidecam Industries, Inc. 23 Joseph Street, Kingston, MA 02364
Customer Service Line 1-781-585-7900
Manufactured in the U.S.A.
COPYRIGHT 2014 GLIDECAM INDUSTRIES,Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
MANUAL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION # PAGE #
1. Introduction 3
2. Glidecam X-20 Arm 5
3. Glidecam X-20 Vest 6
4. Glidecam X-20 Sled 8
4.1. Mounting Your Video Or Movie Camera 11
4.2. Balancing The Horizontal Axis 13
4.3. Balancing The Vertical Axis 17
4.4. Using The Extension Post 20
4.5. Balancing The Vertical Axis While Moving 21
4.6. Handling your X-20 Sled 23
4.7. Connecting The Sled To The Support Arm 24
4.8. Operating The X-20 Sled 25
4.9. Shooting Styles 29
5. Other Camera attachment methods 30
6. Professional usage 30
7. Maintenance 30
8. Warnings 31
9. Warranty 31
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Congratulations on your purchase of a Glidecam X-20 System.
The Glidecam X-20 System is a lightweight, aluminum, hand-held camcorder
stabilizing system designed to allow you to walk, run, go up and down stairs and travel
over rugged terrain without any camera instability or shake. When used correctly
the Glidecam X-20 System can move with such uidity and grace as to be virtually
indistinguishable from shots made by professional dollies, cranes and stabilizers.
The Glidecam X-20 System is the most versatile and dynamic of all the consumer
camcorder stabilizers on the market. It can shoot straight up and down, or even
sideways and still produce stable images.
Fluid tilts and pans, crane-like booms, dolly-type maneuvers, and the ability to shoot
smooth shots from moving vehicles are all easily accomplished with the Glidecam
X-20 System. The offset gimbaled handle-grip and enclosed bearing assembly allows
your hand to move freely in several directions, while the horizontal yoke allows your
hand and arm to move up and down, alleviating the bouncing, pogo-type action often
associated with our competitors’ systems. The upper camera platform moves back
and forth, and side to side to quickly allow the balancing of your camera in relationship
to the counterweights. By varying the length of the central post, the Glidecam X-20
System can support any camcorder weighing from 10-20 pounds.
While the Glidecam X-20 System is in essence a very simple device, its simplicity
doesn’t lend ease in answering that often asked question, “how does it work?” To
answer this question completely would require delving into Newtonian Physics. We
would have to explain - center of gravity displacement, inertia, friction and angular
motion reduction etc. However, a quick answer reveals the Glidecam X-20 System
works by isolating your hand and arm’s motions from your camera, while your camera
is balanced in a relatively motionless state.
The Glidecam X-20 System requires practice and understanding to achieve
professional looking results. We highly recommend that the user read this manual
thoroughly before setting up and operating the Glidecam X-20 System. Doing so
will save you time, and will minimize the risk of damage to your camcorder or the
Glidecam X-20 System. It is important to perform and follow the Set-up and Operation’s
procedures in the proper sequence to avoid both frustration and a possible accident.
If you have any need for technical assistance, you can call our Technical Support
Line at 1-781-585-7900, Monday through Friday between the hours of 9:00 am and
5:00 pm, Eastern Time.
We’re sure you will nd many years of enjoyment with your Glidecam X-20 System
once you have it up and running.
#1 INTRODUCTION
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#2 GLIDECAM X-20 ARM
The GLIDECAM X-20’s Dyna-Elastic™
Dual-Articulating Support Arm incorporates
precision radial bearings and needle roller
bearings within its machined T6 aluminum
structure. The placement and implementation
of these bearings produce minimal friction and
allow the Dyna-Elastic™ Support Arm to pivot
and boom very smoothly, and with virtually no
noise.
Four Titanium Extension Springs are
employed within the Support Arm’s hard-
ARM POSTS
When you rst set up your Glidecam X-20
Arm, if not already installed, use either the 5”
or 10” arm post in at the front top of the arm.
You can stop the rotation of your arm post
by tightening the small allen head bolt on the
topside of the front arm hinge, if needed.
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coat anodized Exo-Skeletal Shells. Utilizing Class Three Levers, the energy of the Extension
Springs acts upon internal Fulcrum Points, and provides the Support Arm with its lifting power.
The spring tension is eld adjustable and allows for varying camera weights.
Our proprietary spring Inter-X-Change™ system makes the installation and removal of the
springs quick and easy. The Support Arm can be setup and used in either a Two-Spring Mode,
or a Four-Spring Mode.
A key design feature of the Support Arm is that it incorporates our Light-Force™ technology.
This literally means that only a “light” force or effort is required by the operator to hold the arm
at any given position, or to boom the arm up and down. It is this Light-Force™ feature that
provides the operator with the optimum amount of camera buoyancy or oat.
The Glidecam X-20 Arm is designed to isolate your unwanted body movements from the
camera. The X-20 Arm will support the weight of your camera stabilizer (sled), camera, monitor,
battery and any additional accessories and wiring. The Glidecam X-20 arm is designed to carry
cameras from 10-20 lbs. The total load must not exceed 50 lbs. The camera weights may vary
slightly as this assumes a total sled, monitor and battery weight of 25 lbs.
IMPORTANT: READ THIS BEFORE CONTINUING. PRIOR TO EACH USE OF YOUR GLIDECAM X-20 ARM
BE SURE TO CHECK THAT ALL INTERNAL, AND EXTERNAL BOLTS & SET SCREWS ARE SECURE TO
ENSURE PROPER AND SAFE OPERATION OF YOUR GLIDECAM X-20 ARM.
ADJUSTING THE ARM SPRINGS
IMPORTANT: When you make these adjustments, make sure you have removed the camera stabilizer
from the end of the arm so that you reduce stress to the internal threads of each spring connector.
The springs have been factory set to 1 on the 0-5 adjustment scale located at the top and bot-
tom of each arm segment. On the scale, “0” would be for the lightest load and the “5” on the
scale would be for the heaviest load. When adjusting the arm for the lightest load you should
not adjust much beyond the “0” on the scale as you could disconnect the spring adjuster bolt.
You will need to turn these socket head adjustment screws with an allen wrench to adjust the
lift capacity of the arm. Turning the socket head bolt clockwise will increase the lift and turning
the socket head bolt counter clockwise will decrease the lifting power of the arm.
When you pick up your camera stabilizer with your Glidecam X-20 Arm, you will want the arm
to remain horizontal with the full load. You may prefer after some use that the arm remains
slightly up or down from horizontal. We recommend that the arm remain horizontal, or slightly
just below horizontal. If the arm is going down too far below horizontal, then you will need to
increase the spring strength by turning the adjuster bolt (socket head bolt) clockwise. If the
arm is going up and above horizontal, then you will need to turn the adjuster bolt (socket head
bolt) counter clockwise to bring the arm lower to horizontal.
IMPORTANT: When you make these adjustments, make sure you have removed the camera stabilizer
from the end of the arm so that you reduce stress to the internal threads of each spring connector.
When you look into the slot at each spring adjustment scale, check to see where the spring end guide
is located.
The rst arm section, which is the section nearest the vest, holds the weight of the second
arm in addition to the sled. Due to this fact the scale settings on the top and bottom of this
arm section may be set to a higher setting than the second arm section. For example if the
setting on the second arm section is at “3.75” on the top and bottom then the rst arm section
will probably be set at 4” on the top and bottom. Remember to make sure that the top and
bottom scale markings of the section being adjusted match each other. Each spring has a
silver adjustment guide that you can clearly see through the slot. When properly adjusted the
two arm segments should move up and down together.
CHANGE TO LEFT HAND OPERATION
If you choose to change the Glidecam X-20 Arm from the factory set right hand operation to
left hand operation, you will need to follow the instructions in your operator vest manual and
then you will need to remove the 2 screws that attach the 2-pin block to the pre-arm and then
rotate the 2-pin block 180 degrees, then reinstall the screws from the opposite side. Now
you can push the 2-pin block into the vest block on the bridge plate and you are set up for left
handed operation.
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#3 GLIDECAM X-20 VEST
The Glidecam X-20 Support Vest is lightweight and comfortable, and can be adjusted to t
a wide range of operators. High endurance, dual density, EVA foam padding and integral T6
aluminum alloy create a vest that can hold and evenly distribute the weight of the system
across the operator’s shoulders, back, and hips. For safety, quick release, high impact buckles
allow the vest to be removed quickly. The Vest’s outer shell is made of 1000 denier cordura
fabric, and 7-panel seat belt strapping, noted as being the best in the industry.
The Glidecam X-20 Vest incorporates a unique and proprietary Arm-to-Vest Connector that
allows the SupportArm to be attached and removed from the Vest without affecting the operator’s
trim settings. The Glidecam X-20 Support Vest incorporates a unique and proprietary Arm-to-
Vest Connector that allows the angle of the Support Arm to be adjusted relative to the Support
Vest. This Trimming Mechanism allows you to neutralize the weight of the Support Arm relative
to your body’s center of gravity. When set correctly the effort required while shooting is greatly
reduced. Another unique and proprietary feature of the Arm-to-Vest Connector is that it allows
the Support Arm to be attached and removed from the Vest without affecting the operator’s
selected trim settings.
GLIDECAM X-20 VEST ADJUSTMENTS
AND SAFETY
When the Glidecam X-20 Vest is properly worn
the vertical center plate must be vertical on the
operator and the straps must be tight enough
so that the vest does not twist or move forward
when the camera and sled are lifted. Check to
see that all pads and straps are set up as they
appear to the left.
To put on the vest we suggest you disconnect the
top left buckles above and below the shoulder
and the left or right belt buckle. Put your right
arm through the armhole between the top and
underarm straps. Put the vest on around your
back and attach the buckles. Now attach the belt
buckle the same way around your hips. You can
tighten the vest if needed by moving the belts
with Velcro through the clips.
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Once the vest is on you should adjust all the
straps so that the vertical plate is centered.
Push down on the vest to place on your hips.
Tighten all straps so that the vest ts tightly
with enough room for you to breathe freely.
The vest waist pad should be low enough so
that it wraps around your hips but not so low
that your legs shift the vest when you walk
up stairs. The vest should be tight but not
uncomfortable.
To change the horizontal bar (bridge plate)
attached to the vertical plate from right to left
or left to right unscrew the four screws, ip
around and attach again using the four screws.
The two knobs on the front of the bridge plate are to adjust the arm in front of your body. When
you tighten the top you must also loosen the bottom screw to get the sled to come towards you
and when you tighten the bottom you must loosen the top at the same time to get the sled to
move away from you. The two knobs on the top and bottom of the bridge plate are to adjust
the arm left to right in front of your body. Once you have the desired position make sure that all
bolts are tight. The adjustment gets the sled to the position you most often use without having
to apply much pressure to keep it there.
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#4 GLIDECAM X-20 SLED
The Glidecam X-20™ sled holds any video or 12 volt lm camera weighing up to 30 pounds.
The X-20 Sled incorporates sophisticated engineering and precision machining to make it
lightweight and strong. Three dedicated video BNC connections are located on the base and
head assembly. The Glidecam X-20 central post power/video cable can handle composite
video, component video and HD-SDI video. Two 2-pin Lemo connectors are also located on
the base and head assembly. The two on the base are for accessories. The head has one for
camera power and the other for camera accessories.
The precision, x-y adjustable Head assembly incorporates a drop in style dovetail camera
plate for quick front to back balance. Very, ne tuning, ergonomic knobs control front to back
and side to side balance adjustments.
The Sled’s “no-tools” precision Gimbal is made to top of the line quality. The Gimbal incorporates
4 bearings inside the handle to yoke connection (the tilt axis). There are 2 bearings on each
side of the yoke, providing 4 bearings for the roll axis. A very tight knurling has been machined
onto the Gimbal Tube to improve handling. An easy to replace soft foam covers the handle
grip.
The Glidecam X-20 Sled has a strong and rigid 1.75” central post, and a “no-tools” Telescoping
Post. This allows you to easily adjust the sled length and position of the LCD and batteries.
The Glidecam X-20 base platform can be set up with two-three Anton Bauer or V-Mount style
batteries.
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IMPORTANT: PLEASE NOTE THAT THE
GLIDECAM X-20 SLED USES ONLY 2-PIN
LEMO CONNECTORS FOR POWER AND
BNC CONNECTORS FOR VIDEO.
The junction box distributes power from
the batteries on the base of the X-20,
and routes the video signal to/or from the
base. The 12 Volt Camera power output
is the 2-pin connector closest to the
sled and the accessories 12-volt power
output is the 2-pin connector furthest
from the central post. This junction box
can be positioned closer to, or further away from the central post by removing the 2 screws
and placing in the desired location. This photo shows the junction box in the furthest position.
NOTE: You will need a common Film Industry “C” STAND (also known as a Century Stand, or
Grip Stand), or a Film Industry LIGHT STAND so that later during the BALANCING procedures
and operation of the Glidecam X-20 SLED you will have something to attach and park your
X-20 SLED onto. The “C” STAND or LIGHT STAND needs to terminate with a standard 5/8”
diameter STUD on its uppermost riser. The STAND must also be of Film Industry quality in
the sense that it must be rugged and made of steel etc. Do not attempt to use a light weight
aluminum light stand, like the ones that are often sold at local amateur photography stores.
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Glidecam X-20 Sled lower distribution box. There
are 2) 12-Volt power outputs, to power support
accessories. There are 3) Video I/O (inputs and
outputs) that are used to send video signal(s)
from, or to the X-20 head unit.
**NOTE – Sandbags should always be used to securely weight down the C-Stand in position and the load
of the Glidecam X-20 sled should always be positioned over one of the legs of the C-Stand.
**NOTE: Whenever you attach ANYTHING to the BASE PLATFORM, be it a BATTERY, or MONITOR etc.
make sure that it is attached so that it can not shift or move in place when the X-20 SLED is in operation.
If something that is attached to the X-20 SLED shifts during operation, it could throw the system out of
balance, possibly causing unstable results.
Glidecam X-20 docking bracket atop a
C-Stand.
Please note the incorporated arm hook, and
locking safety pin.
When it comes to choosing a BASE PLATFORM conguration, one should take into account
the general principle that: The lighter the load on the top section of the Camera Mounting
Assembly (the Sled), the less counterweight required to counterbalance the Sled. In other
words, if you reduce the weight of the CAMERA PACKAGE attached to the top of the Sled,
you’ll need less COUNTERWEIGHT at the bottom of the Sled, (i.e. monitor and battery) thereby
making the whole System lighter and more comfortable to use.
You can reduce the weight of your CAMERA PACKAGE in several ways. First, the Camera
you choose to use with your X-20 SLED should be as light as possible. For instance, if you can
choose between shooting with a Camera that weighs 26 pounds, and a Camera that weighs
18 pounds, then denitely shoot your footage with the 18 pound camera, given of course that
the lighter Camera will be able to fulll your projects needs.
If you are unable to choose which Camera to shoot with, then you should a least try to lighten
the overall weight of your CAMERA PACKAGE. You can reduce the CAMERA’S weight by
selecting a lightweight PRIME LENS (preferably a wide angle lens) instead of a longer and
heavier TELEPHOTO or ZOOM LENS. Still another way to lighten the CAMERA PACKAGE
is to remove any part of the camera’s VIEW FINDER SYSTEM that you will not be needing.
Most Betacam Cameras have completely detachable VIEWFINDERS
Also it should be NOTED that moving the MONITOR AND BATTERIES closer to the CENTRAL
SUPPORT POST reduces the CAMERAS PANNING INERTIA, or in other words, moving
the monitor and battery closer to the POST, will allow you to PAN your CAMERA quicker.
Moving the monitor and battery away from the POST, increases PANNING INERTIA, thereby
smoothing out, or causing the PANNING motion to be slower.
To achieve accurate balance of the X-20 BASE PLATFORM, the positionable MONITOR
BRACKET can be moved in and out, or tilted up and down. The TAIL UNIT of the BASE
PLATFORM can also be moved in and out, or tilted up and down. This will allow you to precisely
balance and align the center of gravity on the BASE PLATFORM of the X-20 before attaching
your camera.
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Glidecam X-20 with the monitor and battery pack
attached:
A – Power/Video distribution box
B – Accessory Power Battery Position
C – Camera Power Battery Position
D – Optional Position for Battery Pack to power
monitor **useful for dynamic balance*
A
B
C
D
NOTE: If your camera comes with, or if you have, a quick release BALANCE PLATE for your camera,
then attach the BALANCE PLATE to the X-20 SLED’s CAMERA PLATE rst, and then simply attach your
camera to the BALANCE PLATE.
To mount your video camera, camcorder to the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE start by nding
your cameras approximate center of gravity. To do this you will need a round pen, pencil
or 1/4” dowel etc. and some white camera tape. Assuming you’re using a pencil, place the
pencil on top of a at work table. Next, place your camera base onto the pencil so that the
pencil length runs perpendicular to the camera length. Now, with your hands supporting your
camera, slide the camera base forward or backwards over the pencil until the camera can be
balanced on the pencil. When you nd the approximate point of balance of your camera use
a bit of camera tape to mark this spot on the left side of your camera. Now place the pencil on
the work table so it is parallel with the camera length, and then slide the camera side to side on
the pencil until you nd the approximate point of balance and then mark this spot on the back
of your camera. These two tape marks now give you a fairly close indication as to the center
of gravity of your camera.
Now that you have located the approximate center of gravity of your camera, mount your
camera to the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE by rst placing your CAMERA upside down on
your lap. Then align the center of the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE with the point on your
camera base where the two white camera tape marks would intersect if you where to draw
imaginary lines through them. Next move the CAMERA PLATE so one of its center 1/4” or
3/8” SLOTS is aligned with the center of gravity of your CAMERA. Now take note of the slot in
the CAMERA PLATE that is nearest to the MOUNTING HOLE on the base of your CAMERA,
for this will be the slot you will use to bolt the CAMERA and PLATES together.
Later during the balancing procedure, you might have to move the mounting hole on your
camera to a different SLOT on the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE to obtain better balance.
This is one of the reasons there is more than one SLOT in the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE.
The other reason for different SLOTS is to allow all sorts of different cameras to t on top of
the Glidecam X-20 SLED.
Now you will have to pick out one of the CAMERA MOUNTING BOLTS provided so you can
bolt your camera to the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE.
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#4.1 GLIDECAM X-20 SLED: MOUNTING
YOUR VIDEO OR MOVIE CAMERA
Next insert the correct CAMERA MOUNTING BOLT(s) into the SLOT(s) you have chosen on
the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE, and then screw the CAMERA MOUNTING BOLT into the
base of your camera until the camera and CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE are bolted rmly
together. ( NOTE: do not over tighten, for in doing so you could pop out the metal threaded
insert that is in the mounting hole of your camcorder.)
Next place your assembled Glidecam X-20 SLED on the docking side of the docking bracket.
Now carefully slide, or drop-in the combined CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE and CAMERA into
the MID PLATE of the X-20Head.
NOTE: If your camcorder comes with, or if you have a quick release BALANCE PLATE for
your camcorder, then attach the BALANCE PLATE to the X-20 SLED’s CAMERA PLATE rst,
and then simply attach your camera to the BALANCE PLATE.
Given you have followed the previous instructions correctly, you should now have your camera
securely attached to the top of the Glidecam X-20 SLED.
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NOTE: You will need a common Film Industry “C” STAND (also known as a Century Stand, or Grip
Stand), or a Film Industry LIGHT STAND so that during the BALANCING procedures and operation of the
Glidecam X-20 SLED you will have something to attach and park your X-20 SLED onto. The “C” STAND
or LIGHT STAND should terminate with a standard 5/8” diameter STUD on its uppermost riser.
(A “C” STAND is not included with your X-20 SLED PACKAGE.)
Now that your Glidecam X-20 SLED is assembled properly, and your CAMERA is securely
attached to the top of the SLED, and your MONITORS and BATTERIES are securely attached
to the base of the SLED. You can now test the SLED’s HORIZONTAL BALANCE. The objective
in obtaining correct HORIZONTAL BALANCE for the SLED is to allow the CAMERA to remain
level during operation, given you are not applying either a PAN, TILT or ROLL type of hand
pressure to the SLED. In other words, if the SLED is horizontally BALANCED correctly, then
the CAMERA will remain level, and the CENTER POST will remain VERTICAL unless you
intentionally position the SLED otherwise, and if the SLED is horizontally BALANCED correctly
it will always return to a level and vertical position after you release any PAN, TILT or ROLL
hand pressure on the SLED.
The best way of adjusting the SLED’s HORIZONTAL BALANCE is to move the CENTER of
GRAVITY of the CAMERA. This can be accomplished by either repositioning the CAMERA on
the CAMERA PLATE, or by adjusting the position of the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATFORM
with the CAMERA on it via the front to back and side to side adjustment knobs. Another way
to adjust the SLED’s HORIZONTAL BALANCE is to move the front to back, or side to side
position of the MONITOR, or BATTERY on the SLED’s BASE PLATFORM.
The Glidecam X-20 SLED can be BALANCED by one person, but if you have an assistant,
then by all means have them assist you in this operation.
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#4.2 GLIDECAM X-20 SLED: BALANCING
THE HORIZONTAL AXIS
Glidecam X-20 Head
A – Locking Knob for the Camera Plate
B – Side to Side Adjustment Knob
C – Camera Plate Locking Pin
D – Fore and Aft Adjustment Knob
E – Screws for Moving Video/Power Box
E
ABC
D
Before you can check and then correctly adjust the HORIZONTAL BALANCE of the SLED you
will need to rst attach the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET to the top 5/8”
diameter stud on your “C” STAND or LIGHT STAND.
On the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET the 5/8” diameter stud side of the
BRACKET is used in the DYNAMIC BALANCE procedures (the horizontal and vertical balance
procedures), and the “horse shoe” shaped receptacle side of the BRACKET is used for DOCKING
or parking your X-20 SLED when it is not in use.
NOTE: Whenever you use the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET make sure that the end of it
that you are using is aligned over one of the legs on the STAND that it is attached onto. The reason for this
is to ensure that the STAND does not fall over when the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET is
in use with the full weight of the CAMERA and SLED on it.
When setting up the STAND be sure to set the STAND up on a at and level surface. You will
also need to raise the top riser on the STAND up high enough so that when the SLED is on
the BRACKET which is attached to the STAND that the BASE of the SLED does not touch the
STANDS LEGS. The height of the STAND’s upper riser should be high enough to raise the X-20
SLED so that when the SLED is in its upright vertical position, its BASE does not hit the STANDS
LEGS even if the SLED is tilted all the way forwards or backwards. If however, you raise the
STAND’s upper riser, and consequently the X-20 SLED, too high off the ground you will cause the
STAND to be to top heavy. That is, unstable enough to cause the STAND to fall over if bumped
etc. Which brings us to the point of using SANDBAGS to weigh down the legs of the STAND to
make everything more stable during all of the BALANCING procedures which follow. If you do
not have SANDBAGS, or something similar, then be very careful not to knock everything over.
Given that you have followed the earlier procedures for setting up the BASE with MONITOR AND
BATTERIES etc. and attaching your CAMERA to the SLED correctly, you should now nd the
SLED set up so that the CAMERA is aligned lengthwise with the BASE PLATFORM, and that the
lens of the CAMERA is facing the FRONT end of the BASE.
Given you have the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET securely attached to your
STAND, you can now securely place the SLED onto the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING
BRACKET. To do this, securely place the bottom end of the GIMBAL HANDLE (the curved
tube portion of the GIMBAL ASSEMBLY) onto the 5/8” diameter stud that is facing up on one of
the ends of the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET. Placing the SLED onto the
DYNAMIC BALANCE end of the BRACKET will set the SLED up so you can now easily tell if the
SLED is balanced correctly on its HORIZONTAL AXIS.
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Before you place the SLED onto the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET to test
for correct HORIZONTAL BALANCE, you should make sure the GIMBAL TUBE is securely in
place on the SLED’s CENTRAL SUPPORT POST. When you receive the SLED, the GIMBAL
TUBE should already be securely attached at its highest position on the CENTER POST.
If the GIMBAL TUBE is not on the POST as described above, then adjust it so that it is.
Adjusting the height of the GIMBAL TUBE on the CENTRAL SUPPORT POST changes the
VERTICAL BALANCE of the UNIT, but for now you should leave, or set the GIMBAL TUBE at
its highest position on the CENTER POST. You will learn more about setting the VERTICAL
BALANCE in the next section. Also, when you place the SLED onto the DYNAMIC BALANCE
AND DOCKING BRACKET be sure to align the SLED so that the length of the CAMERA is
perpendicular with the length of the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET.
NOTE: Be extra careful when placing the SLED onto the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET,
for if the SLED is top heavy, the SLED might quickly turn upside down causing possible damage to the
SLED and/or yourself. Because this is a potential hazard, you should hold tightly onto the SLED until
you are sure that it is not going to move suddenly or ip over. Only then should you gently release the
SLED so it hangs freely on the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET.
Remember, the X-20 SLED is only designed for camera packages weighing from 10 to 30
pounds. If your SLED is found to be top heavy at this point then, either your camera is too
heavy for the SLED, or the GIMBAL TUBE is not set at its highest position on the CENTER
POST, or the EXTENSION POST is not in its fully extended position, or you do not have
enough WEIGHT on the BASE PLATFORM. If you do not have enough WEIGHT on the
BASE PLATFORM, then recheck the BASE to see if all the MONITOR AND BATTERIES are
in place, or if you have not yet attached a BATTERY and MONITOR to the BASE, then do so
now.
Often your CAMERA, or more appropriately your CAMERA PACKAGE, can actually weigh
more than you think it does. Try weighing your camera package to see if it is over the 45
pound weight limit of the sled. Your CAMERA MANUAL may give you your camera’s weight,
but it might not be giving you the correct weight of your camera, given you include its on board
battery, tape, accessories like additional lenses, balance plate, lights, microphones or matte
boxes etc.
Also, when checking the HORIZONTAL BALANCE of the SLED make sure you let the SLED
hang freely on the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING BRACKET. In other words, don’t
touch it with your hands when judging it for correct balance. If the SLED is balanced correctly
on its HORIZONTAL AXIS, then it will be level and upright, with the CENTER POST in a
virtually perfect VERTICAL position.
If the SLED leans to the right, then you will have to position the camera over to the left a bit.
If the SLED still leans to the right, then position the camera more to the left. If the SLED is
leaning to the left, then move the camera to the right.
15
If you nd that you cannot get the LEFT to RIGHT AXIS balanced with this method then try
remounting your camera to a different SLOT in the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE. Try a SLOT
either to the left, or to the right of where your camera is currently mounted. This will move the
camera weight to a different point on your CAMERA PLATE.
Now you can go about balancing the SLED’s FRONT to BACK AXIS. If your SLED tilts to the
front, then you will have to position the CAMERA PLATE back a bit. If the SLED still tilts to the
front, then position the CAMERA PLATE more to the back. If the SLED is tilting to the back, then
position the CAMERA PLATE to the front.
If you nd that you cannot get the FRONT to BACK AXIS balanced with this method then try
remounting your camera to a different SLOT on the CAMERA MOUNTING PLATE. Try a SLOT
either to the front or to the back of where your camera is currently mounted. This will move the
camera weight to a different point on your CAMERA PLATE. After adjusting the front to back
balance as mentioned above you might have to go back and readjust the left to right balance
again to obtain really ne balance of the whole system.
You can also reduce the speed in which a PANNING motion can take place with the SLED, by
moving the monitor and battery further away horizontally from the CENTRAL SUPPORT POST
on the BASE PLATFORM. In other words, to increase PANNING (vertical camera axis rotation)
INERTIA move the MONITOR AND BATTERIES outward, because this will have the effect of
expanding the mass of the SLED horizontally. Moving the MONITOR AND BATTERIES closer to
the CENTER POST will decrease the PANNING INERTIA.
You can use your eyes to judge for correct HORIZONTAL BALANCE, or you can use a BUBBLE
LEVEL (carpenter level etc.) to ensure that the SLED has correct HORIZONTAL BALANCE. When
using a BUBBLE LEVEL or other similar device to judge the SLED’s HORIZONTAL BALANCE,
you should realize that large and heavy CARPENTER LEVELS will effect the BALANCE of the
SLED. The effect it has on the SLED’S BALANCE will vary dependent on where the LEVEL is
placed. For best results you should use only a small LEVEL and afx it to the BASE PLATFORM
so that its weight is, as it were, permanently added to the SLED, or you can use a LEVEL only
temporarily on the SLED given that it is not very heavy and that you place it as close to the center
of the BASE as possible. You can also use the LEVEL on the CAMERA if you nd this works
better for you. In the end, how level the footage viewed through the viewnder or MONITOR
looks is obviously the most important result of all these BALANCE tests and procedures.
NOTE: Later after you adjust the SLED’s VERTICAL BALANCE you will have to go back and readjust the
HORIZONTAL BALANCE again in order to obtain really ne balance of the whole system. This is not always
necessary, but you should check the HORIZONTAL BALANCE again to make sure it is correct. NOTE: The
HORIZONTAL BALANCE of the SLED becomes less sensitive, as the SLED becomes increasingly bottom
heavy. And conversely, the HORIZONTAL BALANCE becomes very sensitive, as the SLED progresses
towards correct VERTICAL BALANCE.
16
Now that your SLED is HORIZONTALLY BALANCED, it’s VERTICAL AXIS can now be tested
and properly BALANCED. The objective in obtaining correct VERTICAL BALANCE for the
SLED is to allow the CAMERA and SLED to remain level during operation, given you are not
applying either a PAN, TILT or ROLL type of hand pressure to the SLED, and most importantly
that the SLED’s CENTER POST remain vertical even if you are walking, running, or turning
while the X-20 SLED is in operation. In other words, if the SLED is vertically BALANCED
correctly, then the CAMERA will remain level, and the CENTER POST will remain VERTICAL
unless you intentionally position the SLED otherwise. If the SLED is not vertically BALANCED
properly, then it will swing about or pendulum when you walk, run or turn.
Again, if the VERTICAL BALANCE is set correctly you will be able to move about quickly,
as well as start or stop moving suddenly, and still have the CENTRAL SUPPORT POST
remain VERTICAL. The best way to adjust the SLED’s VERTICAL BALANCE is to change
the VERTICAL position of the GIMBAL TUBE on the CENTRAL SUPPORT POST. Other
ways to adjust the SLED’s VERTICAL BALANCE are to either add, or subtract WEIGHT from
the BASE PLATFORM, or to either extend, or contract the SLED’s EXTENSION POST. All
of these methods has the effect of altering the position of the SLED’s CENTER of GRAVITY
along its VERTICAL AXIS.
NOTE: The basic procedures for holding and operating the X-20 SLED during the VERTICAL BALANCE
procedures are basically the same as those in the HORIZONTAL BALANCE section, so please be sure
you have read that section carefully before going any further.
To correctly set the SLED’S VERTICAL BALANCE you will have to make sure that the SLED
is setup on the STAND as described earlier, and that the SLED’s HORIZONTAL BALANCE
is correct, or close to correct. Also, before you can properly set the SLED’s VERTICAL
BALANCE, you must rst adjust the position of the GIMBAL TUBE so the SLED hangs in
“NEUTRAL BALANCE”. NEUTRAL BALANCE is when the SLED’s CENTER of GRAVITY is
positioned at the center of the main BEARING on the GIMBAL TUBE. If the SLED is setup so
it is in NEUTRAL BALANCE it will no longer be BOTTOM HEAVY or TOP HEAVY. Instead it
will be evenly BALANCED so that if you position the SLED so the Center Post is horizontal it
will basically stay in this position. Again if the SLED was BOTTOM HEAVY and you TILTED it
horizontally, it would swing back to a VERTICAL position.
Now TILT the CENTRAL SUPPORT POST forward 90 degrees so that it is in a HORIZONTAL
position. The CAMERA LENS should be pointing down at the ground if you have done this
correctly. Now very, VERY carefully loosen the LOCKING COLLAR at the bottom of the
GIMBAL TUBE, while at the same time tightly and SECURELY holding onto the center of the
CENTRAL SUPPORT POST with one of your hands so that the CENTRAL POST doesn’t fall
through or change its basic position within the GIMBAL TUBE when the CLAMP is loosened.
Also, be sure that the GIMBAL TUBE CLAMP or LOCKING COLLAR is fully unlocked before
you move the position of the GIMBAL TUBE on the CENTER POST. Remember the SLED is
very heavy, so be extra careful when following this procedure.
17
#4.3 GLIDECAM X-20 SLED: BALANCING
THE VERTICAL AXIS
At this point you will need to carefully and gently shift the CENTRAL SUPPORT POST within the
GIMBAL TUBE until the SLED hangs in NEUTRAL BALANCE. You will know when you have
set the SLED in NEUTRAL BALANCE, because the CENTER POST will be HORIZONTAL, that
is parallel with the oor given the oor is level, and the SLED will seem to suddenly oat in a
HORIZONTAL position. You might have to slide the CENTER POST back and forth within the
GIMBAL TUBE a bit to nd the exact center of gravity. Once this is done, tighten the LOCKING
COLLAR on the GIMBAL TUBE so the GIMBAL TUBE is very securely fastened to the CENTER
POST again.
Now that the SLED is NEUTRALLY BALANCED, write down, mark with white camera tape, or
take note of the position that the top, or bottom of the GIMBAL TUBE is in by using the GUIDE
SCALE MARKINGS that are laser etched onto the upper portion of the CENTER POST. It has
been found that a favorable condition for normal operation of the SLED can be obtained by raising
the GIMBAL TUBE position 1/2” above this noted position and then tightly locking it thereon. This
position should provide the SLED with the correct amount of BOTTOM HEAVINESS for proper
operation. Each line on the GUIDE SCALE MARKINGS is about 1/8” apart, so you will need
to raise the GIMBAL TUBE on the CENTRAL SUPPORT POST by four lines. The lines are
numbered to make this easier.
NOTE: Always make sure that the GIMBAL TUBE is tightly secured in place before using the system. You
may want to switch out the kip handle on the gimbal tube for a socket head if needed.
It should be noted however, that this position on the CENTRAL POST might not be ideal for your
SLED, given the possibility of various camera weights and or shooting preferences. NOTE:
You should therefore always retest the SLED’S VERTICAL BALANCE by testing the SLED as
described later in this section.
It should be also be noted that the SLED will always require a little bit of BOTTOM HEAVINESS to
operate properly, because the SLED will always need to stay, or return to a VERTICAL position.
Think of the SLED like a children’s “seesaw” that is designed to operate VERTICALLY instead of
HORIZONTALLY.
Now that you know the position which allows the SLED to hang in NEUTRAL BALANCE, and
the position which will create the appropriate amount of bottom heaviness for the SLED, you can
now unlock the GIMBAL TUBE CLAMP and set the GIMBAL TUBE in the correct position on the
CENTER POST. This procedure can be done while the SLED is on the DYNAMIC BALANCE
AND DOCKING BRACKET.
However if you do not have an assistant helping you, or do not feel comfortable adjusting the
GIMBAL position while the SLED is on the BRACKET you can take the SLED off the DYNAMIC
BALANCE and DOCKING BRACKET and place it on the ground in an upright position. **Be
careful of the power/video wire under the bottom of the BASE PLATFORM, and that the SLED
remains upright and does not fall over if you decide to place it on the ground, as this can cause
serious damage or injury **
18
THE SLED ARC TEST: Another way of checking your SLED to see if its vertical balance is
correct is to perform a sled arc test. To do this rst make sure that your SLED is correctly
connected to the DYNAMIC BALANCE end of the DYNAMIC BALANCE AND DOCKING
BRACKET. To do the SLED ARC TEST simply grab hold of the back battery end of the SLED’s
BASE PLATFORM and pull the BASE up and back until the SLED’S CENTRAL SUPPORT
POST is now horizontal. Now carefully let go of the BASE PLATFORM and count how many
seconds it takes for the SLED to then swing back to VERTICAL. If the SLED is vertically
balanced properly then it should take about THREE SECONDS for this to happen. Count your
seconds with the words “one thousand one, one thousand two” etc for accuracy. Adjust the
GIMBAL POSITION until it takes only three seconds for the sled’s center post to swing in an
arc from horizontal to rst passing vertical. NOTE: Be careful when doing the ARC TEST for
you do not want your camera or sled to bang into the “C” STAND.
If all is proper the SLED should now be balanced correctly on its VERTICAL AXIS.
19
The Glidecam X-20 SLED comes with an EXTENSION POST that allows you to expand or
contract the overall length of the SLED’s CENTRAL SUPPORT POST. Changing the length of
the CENTRAL SUPPORT POST effectively changes the CENTER OF GRAVITY of the SLED.
When the EXTENSION POST is in an extended position it expands the mass of the SLED.
When the EXTENSION POST is in a contracted position it contracts the mass of the SLED. If
your SLED is still TOP HEAVY even with the GIMBAL positioned high on the CENTER POST,
then extending the EXTENSION POST could work towards bringing the correct amount of
bottom heaviness to the SLED. If your SLED is still too BOTTOM HEAVY even though the
GIMBAL is positioned lower than you would like on the CENTER POST, then contracting the
EXTENSION POST could work towards bringing the correct amount of bottom heaviness to
the SLED.
20
#4.4 GLIDECAM X-20 SLED: USING THE
EXTENSION POST
The monitor bracket clamp can be adjusted to t on either the top or lower post by using, or
removing the custom shim that is provided.
WARNING
**NOTE – THE TELESCOPING CLAMP MUST BE SECURELY FASTENED AT ALL TIMES. AVOIDING TO
DO SO WILL RESULT IN THE BASE SEPARATING FROM THE UPPER CENTRAL POST AND CAUSING
POTENTIAL DAMAGE TO THE INTERNAL X-20 WIRING, YOUR CAMERA, MONITOR, AND/OR OTHER
EQUIPMENT**
It should be understood that expanding the mass of the SLED by extending the EXTENSION
POST allows you to reduce the amount of COUNTERWEIGHT required to correctly set the
VERTICAL BALANCE on your SLED, thereby making the whole SLED lighter, or allowing you
to use less weight to counterbalance a heavy camera. Therefore, you MIGHT need to extend
the EXTENSION POST to its fully expanded position if you have a very heavy CAMERA,
such as any CAMERA above the weight of 20 pounds. You might also want to extend the
EXTENSION POST given you nd it more comfortable to operate your SLED with less overall
weight on it. This could come about because you wish to lighten the load for prolonged use
of the SLED.
Please note the alignment reference hole. Use
this to view the alignment line on the lower post
to ensure proper alignment between the X-20 head
and base unit. This can also be done by visually
aligning the head and base.
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