Global Hobby Freestyle User manual

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The Global Freestyle ARF is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92728
All contents copyright © 2001, Global Hobby Distributors Version V1.0 February 2001
OUR GUARANTEE:
Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not
cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for
any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-
assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SAFETY WARNING
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open
areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your
airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio
control system and any other components purchased separately.
Safety Warning ...............................................................2
Introduction ....................................................................3
Our Recommendations...................................................4
Additional Items Required .............................................5
Tools and Supplies Required .........................................5
Metric Conversion Chart................................................5
Kit Contents....................................................................6
Replacement Parts ..........................................................7
A Note About Covering .................................................8
Wing Assembly ..............................................................8
Installing the Dihedral Brace...................................8
Joining the Wing Halves..........................................9
Wing Mounting ..............................................................9
Installing the Wing Bolt Doubler ............................9
Mounting the Wing ................................................10
Belly Pan ......................................................................10
Aligning the Belly Pan...........................................10
Installing the Belly Pan..........................................11
Horizontal Stabilizer .................................................... 11
Aligning the Horizontal Stabilizer ........................11
Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer .......................12
Vertical Stabilizer .........................................................13
Aligning the Vertical Stabilizer .............................13
Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer...........................13
Control Surface Hinging ..............................................14
Hinging the Ailerons..............................................14
Hinging the Elevator Halves .................................14
Hinging the Rudder................................................15
Tail Wheel ....................................................................15
Assembling the Bracket .........................................16
Installing the Tail Wheel Bracket ..........................16
Installing the Tail Wheel........................................17
Main Landing Gear ......................................................17
Installing the Aluminum Strut ...............................17
Installing the Wheels and Wheel Pants .................18
Aligning the Wheel Pants ......................................19
Engine Installation .......................................................19
Installing the Engine Mount Beams ......................19
Aligning the Engine ...............................................19
Servo Installation .........................................................20
Installing the Servos ..............................................20
Throttle Control System...............................................21
Installing the Pushrod Tube ...................................21
Installing the Pushrod ............................................22
Installing the Servo Connector ..............................22
Adjusting the Throttle Pushrod .............................23
Elevator Control System ..............................................23
Installing the Control Horns ..................................23
Installing the Pushrod ............................................24
Adjusting the Pushrod ...........................................25
Rudder Control System ................................................25
Installing the Control Rod .....................................25
Installing the Pull-Pull Cables ...............................26
Adjusting the Pull-Pull Cables ..............................27
Aileron Control System ...............................................28
Installing the Control Horns ..................................28
Installing the Pushrods...........................................28
Adjusting the Pushrods ..........................................29
Fuel Tank ......................................................................30
Assembling the Stopper.........................................30
Installing the Stopper Assembly............................30
Installing the Fuel Tank .........................................31
Cowling ........................................................................31
Aligning the Cowling ............................................31
Installing the Cowling............................................33
Installing the Propeller and the Spinner ................33
Canopy .........................................................................33
Aligning the Canopy..............................................33
Installing the Canopy .............................................34
Final Assembly.............................................................34
Applying the Decals ..............................................34
Installing the Wing Skids.......................................34
Installing the Switch ..............................................35
Installing the Receiver and the Battery .................35
Balancing......................................................................35
Balancing the Freestyle ARF.................................35
Lateral Balancing .........................................................36
Control Throws ............................................................36
Preflight Check.............................................................36
Safety Guidelines .........................................................37
Flying the Freestyle ARF.............................................37
3D Aerobatic Flying Setup ..........................................38
Radio Setup for 3D Flying...........................................39
Trim Chart ....................................................................40
Product Evaluation Sheet.............................................43

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INTRODUCTION
Thank you for choosing the Global Freestyle ARF. Get ready to experience the most outrageous flying .46 size
airplane you've ever encountered!
The Global Freestyle ARF is a prebuilt .46 size airplane designed specifically for 3D style aerobatics. What makes
this airplane so great is that this style of flying can be done using any sport .46 size ball bearing two stroke engine! Most
airplanes that are designed for 3D aerobatics are either big, expensive behemoths that are difficult to transport or they are
profile kits that are made from heavy plywood and don't look good. The Global Freestyle ARF changes all of this.
Look closely at the Freestyle ARF and you will notice that it is built extremely light, yet is very strong. The fuselage
is built up from lightweight balsa and plywood and the tail surfaces are built-up balsa. The wing panels are foam core
with balsa sheeting and utilize open-bay construction to reduce weight. Ready-to-fly weight is minimal so you can
understand why a sport .46 ball bearing engine flies the Freestyle ARF so well.
The Freestyle ARF comes with a complete hardware package that includes a clear canopy, fiberglass wheel plants,
heavy duty aluminum landing gear, wheels, fuel tank, tail wheel assembly, motor mounts and all of the necessary nuts and
bolts. Also included is a clear cowling template that makes it easy to align the cooling holes without damaging the
prepainted fiberglass cowling - and remember, the Freestyle ARF is covered by master craftsmen using real iron-on
covering material, not cheap "shelf paper" like some other manufacturers use.
We hope you enjoy your new Global Freestyle ARF as much as we have enjoyed designing and building it for you. If
you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We have also included a product survey in the back
of this instruction manual. Please take the time to fill it out and send it to us. We always enjoy hearing any comments or
suggestions you may have.
This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new Global
Freestyle ARF in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new
airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below.
Please read through them before going any further.
✔Please read through each step before beginning
assembly. You should find the layout very complete
and straight forward. Our goal is to guide you through
assembly without any of the headaches and hassles
that you might expect.
✔There are check boxes next to each step. After
you complete a step, check off the box. This will help
prevent you from losing your place.
✔Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft
cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the indi-
vidual parts.
✔Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put
the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.
✔We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air,
but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,
strong and great flying airplane.
✔If you come across this symbol ☛, it means that
this is an important point or an assembly hint.
✔For your convenience we have included complete
3D aerobatic flying setup information and a trimming
chart beginning on page # 37.
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please
contact us at the address below:
Global Customer Care
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92728
Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone] E-mail: [e-mail]
Global sells a complete line of replacement parts for the Freestyle ARF. If you should ever require things like wing
sets, cowlings or wheel pants, please contact us using the information above. We'll be happy to help you out. For
your convenience we have a complete replacement parts list on page # 6.

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OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
The following section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for
your new Global Freestyle ARF. First, decide on the type of flying you want to do, then look at which items you'll need.
SPORT FLYING
While the Freestyle ARF is designed for 3D aerobatics, it also makes an excellent sport flyer for those pilots who are
accomplished at flying low wing sport airplanes. If you decide you want only to fly basic aerobatics with the Freestyle
then these items are well suited:
Radio System:
A standard four channel radio system with five standard servos and a Y-harness will work fine. The ailerons use two
separate servos, so the Y-harness is necessary to link them together.
Engine and Propeller:
A ball bearing .46 size two stroke engine with a standard muffler will be more than enough power for sport flying.
Use a 10 x 6 or 11 x 6 propeller for the best performance.
We Recommend:
Hitec Focus 4 FM Radio w/4 HS-300 Standard Servos
QTY. 1 P/N 444107 Cirrus CS-71 Standard Servo
QTY. 1 P/N 444728 Cirrus Y-Harness Extension
QTY. 1 P/N 210746 Magnum XL .46ARNV Engine
QTY. 1 P/N 115493 Thunderbolt R/C Long Glow Plug
QTY. 1 P/N 608460 APC 10 x 6 Propeller or
QTY. 1 P/N 608560 APC 11 x 6 Propeller
3D Aerobatic Flying
This is what the Freestyle was designed for. While the Freestyle is an excellent sport flyer, it's even better at 3D
aerobatics. If that's what you want to do then these items are the most well suited:
Radio System:
A four or more channel computer radio with mixing capabilities will be required. Since there are two separate aileron
servos used, they can be plugged separately into the receiver, allowing you the capability of flaperon or spoileron
mixing and differential. The Freestyle is not a big, heavy airplane, so it's not necessary to use high-torque servos.
Five standard size dual ball bearing servos will work fine.
Engine and Propeller:
A ball bearing .46 size two stroke engine with a standard muffler or a .61 size four stroke engine would be an
excellent choice. For 3D flying and extreme vertical performance, use a 12.25 x 3.75 APC propeller on your two
stroke engine or a 12 x 6 or 13 x 5 on your four stroke engine.
We Recommend:
Hitec Flash 5X FM Radio w/4 HS-422 Deluxe Servos
QTY. 1 P/N 444110 Cirrus CS-71 2BB Professional Servo
QTY. 1 P/N 210746 Magnum XL .46ARNV Engine
QTY. 1 P/N 115493 Thunderbolt R/C Long Glow Plug
QTY. 1 P/N 608684 APC 12.25 x 3.75 Propeller
If You're Using a Four Stroke Engine:
QTY. 1 P/N 210985 Magnum XL .61RFS Engine
QTY. 1 P/N 115490 Thunderbolt 4-Cycle Glow Plug
QTY. 1 P/N 608680 APC 12 x 8 Propeller or
QTY. 1 P/N 609288 APC 13 x 6 Propeller

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ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
The items listed below are required in addition to the items recommended in the previous section. Those items will
vary depending upon the setup you choose - either the sport flying setup or the 3D aerobatics setup.
❑Dubro 1/4" Foam Rubber # 868638
❑Global XX Silicon Fuel Line # 115923
❑Dubro In-Line Fuel Filter # 568900
These Are Optional Items:
❑Ernst Charging Jack # 223730
❑Cirrus On-Board Voltage Indicator # 444762
❑Magnum 2-1/4" Chrome Spinner # 237153
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
❑Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565
❑Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545
❑Wilhold Silicon Sealant # 335407
❑Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue
❑# 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑# 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑4mm Hex Driver
❑Adjustable Wrench
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Excel Modeling Knife # 692801
❑Promax Curved Scissors for Plastic # 361120
❑Electric Drill
❑Assorted Drill Bits
❑Dubro T-Pins # 567685
❑Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Dremel Tool w/Assorted Bits
❑Builder's Triangle
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205
To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm
1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4.0mm
3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19.0mm
1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm
6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762.0mm
36" = 914.4mm
METRIC CONVERSION CHART
The part numbers for the Cirrus servos and Y-harness
listed in the previous section, and the Ernst Charging
Jack and the Cirrus On-Board Voltage Indicator listed to
the left are for use with Hitec and JR radio control sys-
tems. These items are also available with connectors
that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio
control systems. Please check with your dealer for part
numbers and pricing.

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KIT CONTENTS
We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin
assembly, group the parts like we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin
assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
❑{1} Fuselage
❑{1} Right Wing Half w/Aileron
❑{1} Left Wing Half w/Aileron
❑{1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves
❑{1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder
❑{1} Belly Pan
❑{1} Fiberglass Molded Cowling
❑{1} Clear Molded Canopy
MAIN GEAR ASSEMBLY
❑{1} Aluminum Main Gear Strut
❑{2} 55mm Diameter Wheels
❑{2} Fiberglass Molded Wheel Pants
❑{2} 25mm Square Plywood Plates
❑{2} 3mm x 38mm Threaded Axle Bolts
❑{4} 3mm Flat Washers
❑{6} 3mm Hex Nuts
❑{2} 2.5mm x 18mm Wood Screws
❑{2} 4mm x 20mm Machine Screws
TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
❑{1} Prebent Tail Wheel Wire
❑{1} 25mm Diameter Wheel
❑{1} Molded Nylon Tail Wheel Bracket
❑{1} Molded Nylon Tail Wheel Tiller Arm
❑{2} 2mm Wheel Collars
❑{2} 2mm x 5mm Machine Screws
❑{2} 2mm Brass Collets
❑{3} 3mm x 18mm Wood Screws
❑{1} 2mm x 30mm Steel Pin
ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM
❑{1} Hardwood Split Elevator Pushrod
❑{2} Nylon Control Horns
❑{2} Nylon Control Horn Backplates
❑{2} Nylon Clevises
❑{4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws
❑{1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly
❑{6} C/A Style Hinges
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM
❑{1} Stranded Pull-Pull Cable
❑{4} 2mm Threaded Brass Couplers
❑{4} 1mm Brass Collets
❑{4} Nylon Clevises
❑{1} 3mm x 50mm Threaded Rod
❑{2} 3mm Flat Washers
❑{2} 3mm Hex Nuts
❑{2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
❑{4} C/A Style Hinges
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM
❑{2} 2mm x 80mm Pushrod Wires w/Z-Bends
❑{2} Nylon Control Horns
❑{2} Nylon Control Horn Backplates
❑{2} Nylon Clevises
❑{4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws
❑{10} C/A Style Hinges
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM
❑{1} 1mm x 500mm Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend
❑{1} 4mm x 380mm Plastic Tube
❑{1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly
MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY
❑{2} Engine Mount Beams
❑{1} Plywood Thrust Plate
❑{4} 4mm x 30mm Socket Head Screws
❑{4} 4mm Flat Washers - Large O.D.
❑{4} 4mm x 35mm Machine Screws
❑{4} 4mm Flat Washers - Small O.D.
❑{4} 4mm Split Washers
❑{4} 4mm Hex Nuts

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FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
❑{1} 280cc Fuel Tank
❑{1} Nylon Fuel Tank Cap
❑{1} Rubber Stopper
❑{1} Nylon Stopper Backplate
❑{1} Silicon Fuel Tubing
❑{1} Weighted Fuel Pick-Up
❑{1} 4mm x 40mm Nylon Fuel Pick-Up Tube
❑{2} 4mm 90º Nylon Vent Tubes
❑{1} 3mm x 22mm Self-Tapping Screw
❑{1} Nylon Fuel Filler Housing
❑{1} Nylon Fuel Filler Snap-Ring
❑{1} Nylon Fuel Filler Plug
MISCELLANEOUS PARTS
❑{1} Plywood Dihedral Brace
❑{1} Spinner Assembly
❑{1} 10 x 6 Composite Propeller
❑{2} Nylon Molded Wing Skids
❑{1} Clear Molded Cowling Template
❑{1} 25mm x 55mm Plywood Plate
❑{2} 4mm x 40mm Socket Head Screws
❑{2} 4mm Flat Washers - Large O.D.
❑{4} 3mm x 18mm Wood Screws
❑{4} 3mm Flat Washers
❑{6} 2mm x 8mm Wood Screws
❑{1} Decal Set
☛Global carries a complete line of replacement parts for the Freestyle ARF. Listed below are the replacement parts
that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. These replacement parts can
be ordered through your local hobby dealer or directly from Global by calling 1-714-964-0329.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
170472 - Instruction Manual
170473 - Wing Set
170474 - Fuselage Set
170475 - Stabilizer Set
170476 - Molded Fiberglass Cowling
170477 - Clear Molded Cowling Template
170478 - Clear Molded Canopy
170479 - Belly Pan
170480 - Hardware Package
170523 - Engine Mount Set
170581 - Fuel Tank Assembly
170481 - Aluminum Landing Gear Strut
170482 - Molded Fiberglass Wheel Pants
170483 - Spinner Assembly
170484 - Decal Set
170599 - 10 x 6 Composite Propeller
856901 - Tail Wheel Assembly

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The covering material used on the Freestyle ARF is real iron-on heat shrink covering material, not cheap "shelf paper."
Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This
trait is inherent in all types of heat shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to purchase,
or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Heat Sealing Iron # 360900 is
recommended.
Follow these simple steps to remove the wrinkles:
❑1) Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for
approximately 5 - 7 minutes.
❑2) After the iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the
iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear. You will notice that the color
of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back down, it will return to its normal color.
☛If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down
and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using
a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.
A NOTE ABOUT COVERING
WING ASSEMBLY
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑{1} Right Wing Half
❑{1} Left Wing Half
❑{1} Plywood Dihedral Brace
INSTALLING THE DIHEDRAL BRACE
❑1) Look carefully at the surface of each root rib on
both wing halves. Notice that there is excess covering
material overlapping onto them.
❑2) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and
remove the excess covering material from both of the root
ribs. Leave about 1/16" of covering material overlapping
so it does not pull away later.
☛Removing most of the covering material from the two
root ribs will expose more of the wood. This will result in
a stronger joint when the wing halves are epoxied together
later. See photo # 1 below.
Photo # 1
❑3) Using a ruler and a pencil, locate and mark the
centerline of the plywood dihedral brace. Draw a vertical
line, one on each side of the dihedral brace, at this loca-
tion. See photo # 2 below.
Photo # 2
❑4) Test fit the plywood dihedral brace into the ply-
wood dihedral brace box in each wing half. The brace

9
should slide into each wing half up to the centerline you
drew. If it does not, remove the dihedral brace and use
220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand
the edges and tips of the brace until you are satisfied with
the fit. See photo # 3 below.
Photo # 3
☛The dihedral brace is symmetrical, so it can be in-
stalled in any orientation. There is no top or bottom.
❑5) Test fit both of the wing halves together with the
dihedral brace temporarily installed (without using glue).
Look carefully at the center section joint: the wing halves
should fit together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint.
See photo # 4 below.
Photo # 4
❑6) If the center section joint is not tight, remove the
wing halves and the dihedral brace, and lightly sand the
edges and tips of the brace. Test fit the wing halves to-
gether with the dihedral brace installed again and repeat
until you are satisfied with the fit. Once you are satisfied
with the fit, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace.
☛It is important that the wing halves fit together firmly.
The better the fit, the stronger the center section joint
will be.
❑7) Following the instructions on the packaging, mix
a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Mix
the epoxy for about 1 minute. This will ensure that both
parts are thoroughly incorporated.
❑8) Working with only one wing half for now, apply
a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood dihedral brace
box and to only half of the dihedral brace. Make sure to
cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use
enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
❑9) Slide the dihedral brace into the wing half up to
its centerline. Remove any excess epoxy before it dries,
using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the ep-
oxy to set up before proceeding.
❑10) Once the epoxy has set up, trial fit both wing
halves together again to double check that the wing halves
still fit together properly.
❑11) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the ex-
posed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the second
wing half, and the entire surface of both root ribs, in-
cluding the dowel pin. Make sure to use enough epoxy
to fill any gaps.
❑12) Slide the two wing halves together and realign
them. Wipe away any excess epoxy, using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol, and use several pieces of masking
tape to hold the two wing halves aligned until the epoxy
fully cures.
❑13) Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the
masking tape and double-check the center section joint.
If any gaps are present, mix a small amount of Kwik Bond
30 Minute Epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps.
Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rub-
bing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to thoroughly cure.
JOINING THE WING HALVES
WING MOUNTING
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond Thick C/A
❑4mm Hex Driver
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Electric Drill
❑11/64" Drill Bit
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑{1} 25mm x 55mm Plywood Plate
❑{2} 4mm x 40mm Socket Head Screws
❑{2} 4mm Flat Washers - Large O.D.
INSTALLING THE WING BOLT DOUBLER
❑1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering
from over the top and bottom of the two predrilled wing
mounting holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes
are located 7/16" in front of the trailing edge and 13/16"
out from each side of the centerline.

10
☛Two blind nuts have been preinstalled into the bot-
tom of the plywood wing mounting block in the fuselage
for the socket head screws to thread into.
☛Do not overtighten the socket head screws. You don't
want to crush the wing.
Photo # 5
❑8) Place the wing into the wing saddle and secure it
into place using two 4mm x 40mm socket head screws
and two 4mm flat washers. See Photo # 8 below.
❑3) Set the plywood plate onto the bottom of the
wing. The rear edge of the plate should be flush with the
trailing edge of the wing and the centerline of the plate
should be lined up with the centerline of the wing. See
photo # 6 below.
Photo # 6
❑4) While holding the plywood plate firmly in place,
use a pencil to draw an outline of the plate onto the wing's
surface.
❑5) Remove the plate. Using a modeling knife, care-
fully cut away and remove the covering material from
inside the outline you drew. See photo # 7 below.
❑6) Apply a bead of Kwik Bond Thick C/A to the
bottom of the plywood plate. Set the plate back into place
and realign it. Hold it in place until the C/A fully cures.
❑7) After the C/A has cured, use a drill with an 11/64"
drill bit to open the two wing mounting holes through the
plywood plate. Use the holes that were predrilled through
the wing as a guide.
Photo # 7
❑2) Using a ruler and a pencil, carefully draw a
vertical centerline on one side of the 25mm x 55mm
plywood plate. See photo # 5 below.
Photo # 8
BELLY PAN
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
❑4mm Hex Driver
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑{1} Belly Pan
ALIGNING THE BELLY PAN
MOUNTING THE WING
❑1) Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove
the covering material from over the precut notch in the
front of the belly pan.
❑2) Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove
the covering material from over the precut wing bolt ac-
cess hole in the bottom of the belly pan. The hole is located
1-3/4" in front of the back edge of the belly pan and it is
1/2" wide and 1-1/4" long.

11
❑3) With the wing installed on the fuselage, set the
belly pan into place and push it down firmly. Align both
the front and back of the belly pan with the sides and bot-
tom of the fuselage and use several pieces of masking
tape to hold it firmly in place. See photo # 9 below.
Photo # 9
☛If the front of the belly pan does not line up with the
sides of the fuselage, use a modeling knife to widen the
notch in the belly pan. That will give you more room to
move the belly pan from side to side.
❑4) When satisfied with the alignment, hold the belly
pan firmly in place and use a pencil to outline the sides of
the belly pan onto the bottom of the wing.
❑5) Remove the masking tape and the belly pan from
the wing. Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and
remove the covering material from inside the outline you
drew. See photo # 10 below.
Photo # 10
❑6) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and
remove the covering material from the bottom edges of
the belly pan. See photo # 11 below.
Photo # 11
☛Removing the covering material from the gluing sur-
faces will result in a stronger bond for the epoxy.
INSTALLING THE BELLY PAN
❑7) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 30 Minute
Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to only the gluing
surfaces of the belly pan.
❑8) Set the belly pan back into place and realign it.
Use several pieces of masking tape to hold it securely in
place and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol.
❑9) After theepoxy has fullycured, removethe mask-
ing tape, but leave the wing in place for now.
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Dubro T-Pins
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑{1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves
ALIGNING THE
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
❑1) Set the two elevator halves aside for now. You
won't need them at this time.
❑2) Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove
the covering material from both sides of the horizontal
stabilizer mounting slot. The slot is 4-3/8" long and 3/8"
wide. The front of the slot is 5" in front of the trailing
edge of the fuselage.
☛The trailing edge of the fuselage is beveled forward
to allow for more rudder control deflection.
❑3) Slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot. To
align the stabilizer, start by doing the following:
❑A) Center the stabilizer from side to side in the
slot. If you measure from each side of the fuselage to

12
each tip of the stabilizer, both measurements will be the
same when the stabilizer is centered. See figure #1below.
Figure # 1
❑B) When you are satisfied that the stabilizer is
centered, use a pencil to draw a couple of marks on each
side of the stabilizer where it and the back of the fuselage
sides meet. See photo # 12 below.
Photo # 12
❑C) With the back of the stabilizer aligned with
the marks you drew, use a T-pin to secure the stabilizer to
the fuselage at the trailing edge only.
☛The front of the stabilizer should be able to pivot from
side to side and the back should stay firmly in place.
❑D) Using a ruler, measure the distance between
the tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the
front of the stabilizer until both of these measurements
are equal. See figure # 2 below.
Figure # 2
❑E) When you are satisfied that the stabilizer is
aligned, use a pencil to draw a couple of marks on each
side of the front of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage
sides meet, then use a couple of pieces of masking tape to
hold the stabilizer firmly in place.
❑F) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look
from the front of the airplane at both the wing and the
stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should
be parallel with the wing. See figure # 3 below.
Figure # 3
☛If the stabilizer is out of alignment, remove it and use
220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the
higher side of the stabilizer mounting slot. Reinstall the
stabilizer and check the alignment once more. Repeat this
procedure until you are satisfied with the alignment.
MOUNTING THE
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
❑4) With the stabilizer properly aligned, use a pencil
to draw a line on each side of the stabilizer were it meets
the fuselage sides. Do this on both the top and bottom.
❑5) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife,
cut away and remove the covering material from between
the lines you drew. See photo # 13 below.
Photo # 13
☛When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut
with only enough pressure to cut through only the cover-
ing itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could
weaken the stabilizer.
❑6) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute
Epoxy. Apply a generous amount of epoxy to only the
top and bottom of the gluing surface on the stabilizer.
☛Because the stabilizer has to slide in place through
the fuselage, apply epoxy only to the stabilizer. This will
prevent the epoxy from spreading over the entire length
of one half of the stabilizer when you slide it into place.
❑7) Slide the stabilizer into place and realign it,
double checking all of your measurements once more
A=A-1
B=B-1
C=C-1

13
before the epoxy sets up. Wipe away any excess epoxy
using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the
stabilizer in place using several pieces of masking tape.
Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.
❑8) After the epoxy has cured, remove the masking
tape. Look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps
between the stabilizer and the fuselage, fill them using
Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy
using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol and allow the
epoxy to set up before proceeding.
VERTICAL STABILIZER
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Builder's Triangle
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑{1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder
ALIGNING THE
VERTICAL STABILIZER
❑1) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the mounting slot
in the top of the fuselage. When the stabilizer is aligned
properly, the rear edge of the stabilizer should be even
with the rear edge of the fuselage and the stabilizer should
be pressed down firmly
❑2) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in
place, use a pencil to draw a line on each side of the ver-
tical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage. See
photo # 14 below.
Photo # 14
❑3) Remove the stabilizer and hold it up to a bright
light. Look carefully at the stabilizer and you will see the
inner structural framework.
❑4) Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove
the covering material (on both sides) from over only the
solid balsa structure that is below the lines you drew.
Remove the covering material from the bottom edge of
the stabilizer also. See photo # 15 below.
Photo # 15
☛Do not cut directly below the lines you drew or you
will be cutting right into the open framework.
☛When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut
with only enough pressure to cut through only the cover-
ing itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could
weaken the stabilizer.
❑5) Slide the vertical stabilizer back into place and
realign it. Using a builder's triangle, check to make sure
that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal
stabilizer. See figure # 4 below.
Figure # 4
MOUNTING THE
VERTICAL STABILIZER
❑6) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute
Epoxy. Apply a generous amount of epoxy to the ex-
posed gluing surfaces of the stabilizer and to the sides
and top of the stabilizer mounting slot in the fuselage.
❑7) Slide the stabilizer into place and realign it,
double checking all of your measurements once more be-
fore the epoxy sets up. Wipe away any excess epoxy using
a paper towel and rubbing alcohol and hold the stabilizer
in place using several pieces of masking tape. Allow the
epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

14
❑8) After the epoxy has cured, remove the masking
tape. Look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps
between the stabilizer and the fuselage, fill them using
Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy
using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol and allow the
epoxy to set up before proceeding.
CONTROL SURFACE HINGING
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑Kwik Bond C/A Debonder
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Paper Towels
HINGING THE AILERONS
❑1) Locate the five precut hinge slots in the trailing
edge of each half of the wing and the leading edge of each
aileron.
❑2) Test fit the C/A hinges into the hinge slots in each
aileron. Each hinge should be inserted far enough into
the slots so that the centerline of the hinges is flush with
the leading edges of the ailerons. If the hinges cannot be
inserted deeply enough, use a modeling knife to cut the
hinge slots deeper.
❑3) With each of the hinges centered in the hinge
slots, apply 5-6 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint
where the hinges and the ailerons meet. Allow a few sec-
onds between drops for the C/A to "wick" into the hinges,
then turn the ailerons over and repeat this procedure on
the other side of each hinge. Let the C/A dry for about 10
minutes before proceeding. See photo # 16 below.
☛Because of the large size of the control surfaces on
the Freestyle ARF it is absolutely imperative that the
hinges be glued properly. This includes both having a
tight hinge gap and using plenty of C/A glue.
Photo # 16
☛If any C/A gets onto the aileron, it can be removed
promptly using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity
of Kwik Bond C/A Debonder.
❑4) Working with one aileron for now, slide the aile-
ron and its hinges into the hinge slots in the trailing edge
of the wing. Adjust the aileron so that the tip of the aile-
ron is even with the tip of the wing.
❑5) While holding the aileron tight against the wing,
pivot the aileron down about 45º. Apply 5-6 drops of
Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge.
Turn the wing over and repeat for the other side of the
hinges. See photo # 17 below.
☛If any C/A runs down the length of the hinge line, it
can be removed promptly using a paper towel soaked with
a small quantity of Kwik Bond C/A Debonder.
❑6) Allow the C/A to dry completely - about 15 min-
utes. Whenyouare surethat theC/Ahas completelycured,
pivot the aileron up and down about five times to free up
the hinges.
❑7) Gently grasp the aileron and pull on it like you
are trying to pull out the hinges. The hinges should hold
securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more
C/A and allow it to completely cure.
❑8) Repeat steps # 4 through # 7 to install the second
aileron on the other half of the wing.
Photo # 17
HINGING THE ELEVATOR HALVES
❑9) Locate the three precut hinge slots in the trailing
edge of each half of the stabilizer and the leading edge of
each elevator half.
❑10) Test fit the C/A hinges into the hinge slots in
each elevator half. Each hinge should be inserted far
enough into the slots so that the centerline of the hinges is
flush with the leading edges of the elevator halves. If the
hinges cannot be inserted deeply enough, use a modeling
knife to cut the hinge slots deeper.
❑11) With each of the hinges centered in the hinge
slots, apply 5-6 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint
where the hinges and the elevator halves meet. Allow a
few seconds between drops for the C/A to wick into the
hinges, then turn the elevator halves over and repeat this
procedure on the other side of each hinge. Let the C/A
dry for about 10 minutes before proceeding.

15
☛If any C/A gets onto the elevator halves, it can be
removed promptly using a paper towel soaked with a small
quantity of Kwik Bond C/A Debonder.
❑12) Working with one elevator half for now, slide
the elevator and its hinges into the hinge slots in the trail-
ing edge of the stabilizer. Adjust the elevator so that there
is no more than a 1/16" gap between the elevator counter-
balance and the tip of the stabilizer.
❑13) While holding the elevator tight against the sta-
bilizer, pivot the elevator down about 45º. Apply 5-6
drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of
each hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the
other side of the hinges.
☛If any C/A runs down the length of the hinge line, it
can be removed promptly using a paper towel soaked with
a small quantity of Kwik Bond C/A Debonder.
❑14) Allow the C/A to dry completely - about 15 min-
utes. Whenyouare surethat theC/Ahas completelycured,
pivot the elevator up and down about five times to free up
the hinges.
❑15) Gently grasp the elevator and pull on it like you
are trying to pull out the hinges. The hinges should hold
securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more
C/A and allow it to completely cure.
❑16) Repeat steps # 12 through # 15 to install the
second elevator half on the other half of the stabilizer.
HINGING THE RUDDER
❑17) Locate the four precut hinge slots in the trailing
edge of both the vertical stabilizer and fuselage, and the
leading edge of the rudder.
❑18) Test fit the C/A hinges into the hinge slots in
the rudder. Each hinge should be inserted far enough into
the slots so that the centerline of the hinges is flush with
the leading edges of the rudder. If the hinges cannot be
inserted deeply enough, use a modeling knife to cut the
hinge slots deeper.
❑19) With each of the hinges centered in the hinge
slots, apply 5-6 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the joint
where the hinges and the rudder meet. Allow a few sec-
onds between drops for the C/A to wick into the hinges,
then turn the rudder over and repeat this procedure on the
other side of each hinge. Let the C/A dry for about 10
minutes before proceeding.
☛If any C/A gets onto the rudder, it can be removed
promptly using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity
of Kwik Bond C/A Debonder.
❑20) Slide the rudder and its hinges into the hinge
slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer and the fuselage.
Adjust the rudder so that there is no more than a 1/16"
gap between the rudder counter-balance and the tip of the
stabilizer.
❑21) While holding the rudder tight against the sta-
bilizer and fuselage, pivot the rudder to the right about
45º. Apply 5-6 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the ex-
posedareaof eachhinge. Turnthe fuselageoverand repeat
for the other side of the hinges.
☛If any C/A runs down the length of the hinge line, it
can be removed promptly using a paper towel soaked with
a small quantity of Kwik Bond C/A Debonder.
❑22) Allow the C/A to dry completely - about 15 min-
utes. Whenyouare surethat theC/Ahas completelycured,
pivot the rudder back and forth about five times to free up
the hinges.
❑23) Gently grasp the rudder and pull on it like you
are trying to pull out the hinges. The hinges should hold
securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more
C/A and allow it to completely cure.
TAIL WHEEL
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond Thick C/A
❑Kwik Bond C/A Debonder
❑# 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Electric Drill
❑5/64" Drill Bit
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Dremel Tool w/Cutting Disc
❑Masking Tape
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑{1} Prebent Tail Wheel Wire
❑{1} 25mm Diameter Wheel
❑{1} Molded Nylon Tail Wheel Bracket
❑{1} Molded Nylon Tail Wheel Tiller Arm
❑{2} 2mm Wheel Collars
❑{2} 2mm x 5mm Machine Screws
❑{2} 2mm Brass Collets
❑{3} 3mm x 18mm Wood Screws
❑{1} 2mm x 30mm Steel Pin

16
❑1) Push one of the brass collets into the top and one
into the bottom of the nylon tail wheel bracket. Install the
collets with the flanges facing the outer surfaces of the
bracket. See photo # 18 below.
Photo # 18
❑2) Push one 2mm wheel collar into the molded re-
cess in the nylon tail wheel tiller arm. Carefully rotate the
wheel collar until the threaded hole in the collar lines up
with the molded hole in the side of the tiller arm.
❑3) Partially thread one 2mm x 5mm machine screw
through the tiller arm and into the wheel collar. See
photo # 19 below.
Photo # 19
❑4) Push the tail wheel wire up through the bottom
of the tail wheel bracket, then slide the tiller arm over the
tip of the wire and push it down into the molded recess in
the tail wheel bracket.
❑5) Turn the tail wheel wire so that the coil faces the
front of the bracket and adjust the tiller arm so that it faces
the back of the bracket. While holding everything in align-
ment, tighten the 2mm x 5mm machine screw using a # 0
phillips screwdriver. See photo # 20 below.
Photo # 20
ASSEMBLING THE BRACKET
❑7) Place the tail wheel bracket onto the bottom of
the fuselage. To align the assembly, the pivot point of
the tiller arm should be even with the rudder hinge line
and the bracket should be centered in the middle of the
fuselage. See photo # 21 below.
❑6) Using a Dremel Tool with a cutting disc attach-
ment, carefully cut off the top of the tail wheel wire flush
with the top of the tiller arm.
INSTALLING THE
TAIL WHEEL BRACKET
Photo # 21
❑8) When satisfied with the alignment, hold the
bracket in place and use a pencil to mark the locations of
the three mounting screws onto the fuselage.
❑9) Remove the tail wheel bracket. Using a drill with
a 5/64" drill bit, drill three pilot holes through the fuse-
lage at the marks you drew.
❑10) Set the bracket back into place and realign it.
Secure it to the fuselage using three 3mm x 18mm wood
screws. Tighten the screws firmly using a # 1 phillips
screwdriver.
❑11) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped
between the rudder and vertical stabilizer, to hold the
rudder centered.
❑12) Rotate the tiller arm so that it is centered over
the bottom edge of the rudder. Use a pencil to draw a
mark on the bottom edge of the rudder, directly below the
middle of the slot in the tiller arm. See photo # 22 below.
Photo # 22

17
❑13) Rotate the tiller arm out of the way. Using a
drill with a 5/64" drill bit, drill a 3/4" deep hole into the
bottom of the rudder at the mark you drew.
☛Make sure you drill the hole 90º to the bottom of the
rudder and make sure that it's centered.
❑14) Squeeze a small amount of Kwik Bond Thick
C/A down into the hole. Rotate the tiller arm back into
place and slide the 2mm x 30mm steel pin through the
slot in the tiller arm and into the hole in the rudder. Ad-
just the depth of the pin so that there is 1/4" sticking above
the tiller arm. See photo # 23 below.
Photo # 23
☛Any C/A that squeezes out of the hole can be removed
promptly using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity
of Kwik Bond C/A Debonder.
INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL
❑15) Partially thread one 2mm x 5mm machine screw
into the remaining 2mm wheel collar.
❑16) Slide the 25mm diameter tail wheel onto the tail
wheel wire, followed by the wheel collar. Push the wheel
collar against the wheel and, using a # 0 phillips screw-
driver, tighten the machine screw to secure the wheel into
place. See photo # 24 below.
Photo # 24
☛Double check that the tail wheel spins freely. It should
not bind.
❑17) Using a # 0 phillips screwdriver, loosen the ma-
chine screw in the side of the tiller arm. With the rudder
still centered, rotate the tail wheel wire until it is centered
with the rudder. When satisfied with the alignment, tighten
the machine screw firmly.
MAIN LANDING GEAR
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Adjustable Wrench
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Electric Drill
❑5/64" & 5/32" Drill Bits
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Dremel Tool w/Cutting Disc
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑{1} Aluminum Main Gear Strut
❑{2} 55mm Diameter Wheels
❑{2} Fiberglass Molded Wheel Pants
❑{2} 25mm Square Plywood Plates
❑{2} 3mm x 38mm Threaded Axle Bolts
❑{4} 3mm Flat Washers
❑{6} 3mm Hex Nuts
❑{2} 2.5mm x 18mm Wood Screws
❑{2} 4mm x 20mm Machine Screws
INSTALLING THE ALUMINUM STRUT
❑1) Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove
the covering material from over the two predrilled main
gear access holes in the bottom of the fuselage. The two
holes are located 3/4" in front of the wing saddle and they
are both 5/8" in diameter.
☛Look carefully at the aluminum main gear strut from
one end and you will notice that one side is straight and
the other side is angled.
❑2) Slide the main gear strut into the precut slot,
making sure that the straight side is toward the back of
the fuselage. Align the predrilled holes in the strut with
the predrilled holes in the fuselage.

18
INSTALLING THE WHEELS
AND WHEEL PANTS
❑4) Test fit one 25mm square plywood plate into one
wheel pant. The plate should be centered over the molded
recess in the side of the pant. See photo # 25 below.
Photo # 25
❑5) Remove the plywood plate and set it aside. Us-
ing 220 grit sandpaper, carefully roughen the fiberglass
only where the plate will be glued into place.
❑6) Mix a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy and apply a generous layer to the gluing surface of
the plywood plate.
❑7) Set the plate back into place and realign it. Re-
move any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol, and hold the plate firmly in place until the epoxy
sets up.
❑8) Hold the wheel pant up to the landing gear
bracket. Center the molded recess in the side of the wheel
pant over the end of the bracket, and using a pencil, mark
the location of the axle hole onto the side of the wheel
pant. See photo # 26 below.
❑3) When satisfied with the alignment, secure the
strut into place using two 4mm x 20mm machine screws.
Tighten the screws firmly using a # 1 phillips screwdriver.
Photo # 26
☛So that the wheel pant will be at the proper height,
the bottom edge of the pant should be 1/8" above the bot-
tom edge of the landing gear bracket.
❑9) Using a drill with a 5/32" drill bit, drill a hole
through the wheel pant at the mark you drew.
❑11) Slide one 55mm diameter wheel onto one of
the 3mm x 38mm threaded axle bolts. Thread one 3mm
hex nut onto the axle bolt and up against the wheel. See
photo # 28 below.
Photo # 27
❑10) Using a Dremel Tool with a cutting disc attach-
ment, carefully cut a slot from the hole you drilled down
to the bottom of the wheel pant. See photo # 27 below.
☛Don't tighten the nut against the wheel. The wheel
should be able to spin freely, but not be too loose.
❑12) Carefully apply a couple of drops of Kwik Bond
Thin C/A to the nut to lock it firmly into place. Allow the
C/A to fully cure before proceeding.
❑13) Slide one 3mm flat washer up against the hex
nut. Slide the wheel assembly into the slot in the wheel
pant, making sure the washer is on the inside of the wheel
pant (up against the plywood plate).
❑14) Slide the end of the axle bolt through the pre-
drilled hole in the landing gear bracket. Slide one 3mm
flat washer up against the bracket and thread one 3mm
hex nut onto the bolt. See photo # 29 below.
Photo # 28
Photo # 29

19
❑15) While holding the hex nut inside the wheel pant
with needle nose pliers, tighten the outer hex nut firmly
using an adjustable wrench.
❑16) Thread a second 3mm hex nut onto the axle
bolt, and using an adjustable wrench, tighten it firmly up
against the first hex nut.
❑17) Repeat steps # 4 through # 16 to install the
second wheel and wheel pant assembly
ALIGNING THE WHEEL PANTS
❑18) With the airplane sitting on a level surface, care-
fully pivot each wheel pant until the bottom rear portion
of each pant is parallel with the ground.
❑19) When satisfied with the alignment, use a drill
with a 5/64" drill bit and drill one pilot hole through the
side of each wheel pant, using the predrilled holes in the
landing gear bracket as a guide.
❑20) Install and tighten one 2.5mm x 18mm wood
screw in each wheel pant to lock them into place.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑# 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑4mm Hex Driver
❑Adjustable Wrench
❑Electric Drill
❑1/8" & 11/64" Drill Bits
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
ITEMS REQUIRED
❑{2} Engine Mount Beams
❑{1} Plywood Thrust Plate
❑{4} 4mm x 30mm Socket Head Screws
❑{4} 4mm Flat Washers - Large O.D.
❑{4} 4mm x 35mm Machine Screws
❑{4} 4mm Flat Washers - Small O.D.
❑{4} 4mm Split Washers
❑{4} 4mm Hex Nuts
INSTALLING THE ENGINE MOUNT BEAMS
☛The references in the next step are taken from the con-
sideration that you are looking at the front of the airplane
with the airplane right-side up.
❑1) Install the two nylon engine mount beams, along
with the plywood thrust plate, using four 4mm x 30mm
socket head screws and four 4mm large O.D. flat wash-
ers. Tighten the screws firmly using a 4mm hex driver to
secure the mounting beams and thrust plate in place. See
photo # 30 below.
Photo # 30
☛The engine mount beams should be installed with the
longer side of both beams toward the lower left portion of
the fuselage. The thrust plate should be installed with the
thicker portion on the right side of the airplane. Remem-
ber, these references are as if you were looking at the front
of the airplane, with the airplane right-side up.
ALIGNING THE ENGINE
☛The engine mount spacing is set from the factory
to accept either the Magnum XL .46ARNV two stroke
engine or the Magnum XL .61RFS four stroke engine.
Other engine brands that have a maximum crankcase
width of no more than 35mm will also work.
These instructions will detail the installation of the
Magnum XL .46ARNV engine. Please note that the
drive washer spacing will be the same for whichever
different engine you may choose.
❑2) Remove the muffler, carburetor (two stroke only)
and rear needle valve assembly (if applicable) from your
engine and set them aside.
❑3) Set the engine on the engine mounting beams.
Using a ruler, measure the distance that the front of the
drive washer is from the back of the motor mount beams.
Adjust the depth of the engine until the measurement is
4-5/8". See photo # 31 below.
Photo # 31

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❑4) While holding the engine firmly in place, use a
pencil to mark the four engine mounting screw locations
onto the engine mounting beams. See photo # 32 below.
☛Both the flat washers and split washers are installed
on the bottoms of the engine mounting beams.
❑9) Following the instructions that were included
with your engine, install the carburetor and rear needle
valve assembly (if applicable) onto your engine at this
time. Do not install the muffler yet.
Photo # 32
❑5) Remove the engine and set it aside. Using a drill
with a 1/8" drill bit, drill a pilot hole through the engine
mounting beams at each of the four locations you marked.
☛Because of the consistency of the engine mounting
beams, it's best to drill pilot holes before drilling the larger
holes. This will prevent the drill from "creeping" and dis-
torting the holes.
❑6) Set the engine back into place and realign it.
Check to ensure that the holes in the engine mounting
lugs still line up with the pilot holes in the beams.
❑7) Remove the engine and set it aside. Using a drill
with an 11/64" drill bit, enlarge the four pilot holes in the
engine mounting beams.
❑8) Install the engine using four 4mm x 35mm ma-
chine screws, four 4mm small O.D. flat washers, four 3mm
split washers and four 3mm hex nuts. Tighten the hex
nuts and machine screws firmly using a # 2 phillips screw-
driver and an adjustable wrench. See photo # 33 below.
Photo # 33
SERVO INSTALLATION
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Electric Drill
❑1/16" Drill Bit
❑Ernst Airplane Stand
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
INSTALLING THE SERVOS
❑1) Locate the five servos you intend to use for the
elevator, rudder, throttle and aileron controls.
❑2) Carefully install the four rubber grommets and
four brass collets onto each of the servo mounting lugs.
☛For proper vibration reduction, the brass collets
should be inserted into the rubber grommets with the
flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting lugs.
See figure # 5 below.
Figure # 5
❑3) Position three servos into the fuselage servo tray,
making sure that you run the servo wires below the tray
and out toward the front of the fuselage.
☛Pay close attention to the positions of the servo out-
put shafts. They should face the directions shown in the
photo. See photo # 34 below.
Photo # 34
❑4) Using a drill with a 1/16" drill bit, drill pilot holes
through the servo tray for each of the servo mounting
screws (included with your radio system).