GMC ZE06581 1976 Configuration guide

1976
MAINTENANCE
MANUAL
SUPPLEMENT
MOTORHOME
ZE06581,ZE06582
(EFFECTIVE WITH VEHICLE
IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER TZE166V100878)
TRANSMODE
ZE06083,
ZE06583
(EFFECTIVE WITH
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER
TZE336V100880 (23')
TZE366V100883
(26')
When reference is
made in this manual to a brand
name, number, or
specific tool, an equivalent
product may be used in place
of
the
recommended
item .
GMC :
TRUCK
&
COACH DIVISION
GENERAL MOTORS
CORPORATION
PONTIAC, MICHIGAN

48053
© 1977
General
Motors
Corporation

Printed
in U .S
.A .
TABLE OFCONTENTS
X-7625
BODY, HEATING
AND
AIR CONDITIONING
RADIATOR AND COOLANT
RECOVERY SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION,
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
AND LUBRICATION
FRONT SUSPENSION
MISCELLANEOUS GMC LIVING
AREA FACILITIES
ALPHABETICAL
INDEX
WIRING DIAGRAMS

GENERAL
INFORMATION,
PERIODIC
MAINTENANCE,
AND
LUBRICATION
The
information
described in Maintenance
Manual X-7525 (SEC . 0) is applicable
Models
covered by this supplement
with the exception
of the following :
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
AIR COMPRESSOR WET TANK
Effective with
the movement of the sus-
pension air compressor to
the rear of the
vehicle, the suspension air reservoir
tank was
replaced by a
wet
tank .
Note, illustrations
showing
the location of the
wet tank are
provided in Section 4 of
this supplement .
Servicing
The air
compressor wet tank
should be
drained at 3 month or 3,000
mile intervals .
NOTE :
More
frequent drain intervals
should be made
if driving
conditions and
habits
result in excessive
air compressor
operation .
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER
Figure 1
is an explaination of
the vehicle
identification
number for
all models covered
by this supplement .
SECTION o
(TYPICAL
IDENTIFICATION NUMBER TZE166V100053)
ZE06581
ZE06582
ZE06083
ZE06583
MODEL
DESIGNATION
Model

Model Code

Length
16 26'
26 26'
33
23'
36
26'
SERIES
YEAR
DESIGNATOR
SEQUENTIAL
NUMBER
100053
MFD .
B Y
GMC
ENGINE
TYPE
E-V8
Gasoline
ASSY
.
PLANT
CODE
V-Pontiac
Figure 1-Vehicle Identification
Number
to

0-2 LUBRICATION

1A-1
SECTION
1
BODY,
HEATING AND
AIR
CONDITIONING
This section is sub-divided into
two parts :
SECTION

PAG
E NO
.
1A Body

..............
. ....
. ........

1A-1
1B Air
Conditioning System
(includes Heating) .

.... .... . . .

1B-1
SECTION 1 A
BODY
The information described
in Maintenance Manual X-7525
under the heading
BODY,
HEATING AND AIR
CONDITIONING (SEC . 1) is applicable
to models
covered by this supplement
with the exception of
the following :
Contents of
this section are listed below :
SUBJECT

PAGE
NO
.
Motorhome and TransMode
Paint Codes ............. . .
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1A-1
Glass
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1A-2
"Hehr"
Living Area Window
Assemblies ..............
1A-2
Rear Window
Replacement

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1A-2
Windshield Wiper System . . . ... ...............
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1A-2
Aluminum and
Fiberglass Repair . . . . ..............
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1A-2
Entrance Door .
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1A-12
Door
Strap
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1A-12
End Cap
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1A-12
Floor .
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1A-12
General
Information . ........ . . . . . . .......

1A-12
MOTORHOME
AND TRANSMODE PAINT CODES
EXTERIOR PAINT CODES
RPO

Color

Fisher No .

DuPont Code No .

Refinish No .
583

Buckskin

WUEK 5275

826-Y-AH 715

44572U
Effective with
vehicle serial number TZE
165V100089, vehicles are painted with
DuPont
urethane paint
trademarked IMRON . Paint repairs
should be made with
IMRON
(DuPont
refinish No . ends in
U) or equivalent, or a high grade enamel
automotive paint . (DuPont
acrylic enamel refinish No .
ends with "A" .)
NOTE :
Lacquer should not be used to
repair body finish on these vehicles .

1 A-2 BODY
GLASS
"HEHR" LIVING AREA
WINDOW ASSEMBLIES
"Hehr" living area window assemblies have
new formed
retainers
that
screw directly to
the sash assembly (figure 1) . The trim molding
has also been redesigned (figure 2), and installs
directly into the sash retainer . No mounting
screws are needed . These new features do not
affect
removal and installation procedures as
outlined in "Screen and Vent
Assembly,"
Section 1, : Maintenance
Manual X-7525 .
REAR
WINDOW REPLACEMENT
Rear windows are made of solid tempered
glass .
Care is necessary in handling and
installation . If
glass clearance of replacement
window is too small, adjustment may be made
by "trimming" fiberglass flange
around
window . Do not attempt to grind
tempered
glass . Grinding may cause glass to shatter .
WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM
CAUTION
: When replacing the windshield wiper motor, correct routing of the power
steering hoses is very important .
Although sequence
of
assembly is not vital, the
power steering hoses, when installed, must not be twisted,
kinked, or tightly bent
.
The hoses should have sufficient natural curvature in the routing to
absorb
movement and hose shortening in operation .
They
should
also be free of twist under
strain .
All fittings must be held while tightening or loosening nuts .
ALUMINUM AND FIBERGLASSREPAIR
The aluminum
and
fiberglass
panels on the
body may be repaired if damaged . Refer to
Sec . 1,
Maintenance Manual
X-7525 for fiber-
glass repair procedure . Filler
putty can be
used for minor dents,
scratches and scrapes on
the
aluminum panels . However, major
damage
to a panel
(fiberglass or aluminum) will
require
removal and replacement of
the panel
.
Before
this can be done all windows, access
doors,
Figure 1-Sash Retainer

Figure 2-Window Trim

U
N
W
r
O
7
N
3
C
a
m
B
C
a
CA
a
N
Y
1
U
C
T
U
1
N
E
6
0
8
W

1 A-4 BODY
Figure
4-TransMode Body Side
Structure
(ZE06583)

1 A- 6 BODY
Figure 6-"Twin Bed"
MotorhomeBody Side Structure
(ZE06582)

BODY
1 A-9
vents,
belt and roof line trim moldings
in the
damaged area should
be removed . The panels,
which are secured to the
rib with a poly-
urethane adhesive, are
difficult to separate
and remove from
the body . The suggested
method which follows should make
the
-
repair
job easier
.
NOTE : There
are numerous overlapping
joints
on the vehicle where
the front and
rear fiberglass
panels are joined to the body
structure and to each other . These
joints
are glued together .
Some panels are also
bolted together
or
held by
fasteners behind
the exterior skin
.
These
panels include : (a)
the lower
front panel which is bolted
to the
lower
front side panels at the front corners
of the vehicle (5
bolts
each
side of vehicle),
(b) the lower side panels,
which are held to
the
main body side panels with two
screws
and a
pop
rivet,
and (c) the rear corner pillar
assemblies, which are bolted to
the main
rear side panels (8
bolts each side of
vehicle)
.
Should the corners of
the vehicle become
damaged, or should any part of
the front or
rear "cap" need replacement,
the
lap
joint
bolts must be
loosened or removed . To do so
may require that specific
interior compo-
nents,
trim panels, cabinets, dash
panel,
etc ., be removed to allow
access to certain
of the
bolts
.
When all the attaching
bolts
are loosened or removed, the adhesive bond
between the joints
must be broken . Then
the exterior
skin must be "peeled
back"
before the
affected panel(s) can be pulled
off the
vehicle for repair or replacement
.
NOTE : ,
Carefully read and follow
all manu-
facturer's safety
precautions for primer,
solvent and body
adhesive .
PANEL
REMOVAL
Typical positioning of body structural
mem-
bers
(right and left hand views) in the standard
TransMode and
Motorhome vehicles is depicted
in
figures 3 through 6 . Figures 7
and
8
illustrate TransMode and
Motorhome roof
structures .
NOTE : Individual Motorhome
and Trans-
Mode vehicles may have structural
additions
and changes not
represented by these veiws .
If possible, determine
vehicle alterations
from
standard before beginning body
repair
.
Using these
figures
for
reference, it is
essential to determine position of
the rib
Figure 9-Pneumatic Chisel Set
structure of the vehicle prior to
repair . This is
important to avoid damaging structural
com-
ponents, piping,
wiring, insulation, etc .
located immediately behind the panels . It
is
suggested
that
each
damaged panel be re-
moved in two parts, using
Special Tool J-26805
(figure
9) .
This tool is a Pneumatic Chisel Bit
Set, to be used with a standard air
chisel
(parker
shank)
for body repair .
1
. Remove
all mechanical attachments
.
When removing rivets, drill only
deep enough
to remove
the rivet,
or piping,
wiring, insula
tion, etc .
directly behind the
panels
will be
damaged . After rivet head is
drilled
off,
use
a
punch to
carefully drive out the rivet shaft
.
2 . Determine
position of vehicle structural
supports in area to be
repaired
.
Trace frame
or rib area with washable marker on
outside of
vehicle .
3 . Working from
the
vehicle
exterior and
using a standard air chisel
with
a
Rip Bit
(J-26805-1), cut along the inside edge of the
damaged
panel, parallel to
the
ribs and approx-
imately two inches "inside"
of
the rib
structure . (See figure
10 .)
Then remove the
cut-out section of the panel .
Figure
10-Panel Removal With Air Chisel-Step 3

1A- 1
0
BODY
INSPECTION
Inspect
crossmembers for damage
. Any
damaged rib
will have to be straightened,
replaced, or have shim
material fastened to
the rib so proper support
will
be provided
for
the panel .
PANEL INSULATION
New body panels must be
insulated to insure
temperature
control and good performance
of
heating and air
conditioning systems .
Insulate
with rigid urethane foam
(available in aerosol
cans) or 1-inch,
1 1/2 lb
.
density
fiberglass
insulation sheets, cut to
fit . Both types of
insulation
are available locally . Do not cover
areas which must
remain accessible for
servicing, such as structural
flanges and
interior component mounting sufaces
. If
urethane
foam is used, take care not to spray
adhesive bonding surfaces .
Figure i 1-Panel Removal With
Air Chisel-Step 4
With the largest part
of the panel out of the
way
it
will now
be easier to remove
the
remainder of the panel
(which is secured to the
crossmember with adhesive)
without damaging
the
crossmember
.
4 . Using a Flat
End Scraper Bit (J-26805-2),
operate the air chisel
along the rib line and
underneath the panel piece to break the
adhesive bond between the panel
and the rib .
Note that figure
11
shows panel "remains"
from two body side panels (panel A&
panel B)
being removed from the structural support .
This would be necessary
only if both panels
were damaged . If only one panel needs
replacement, only one
panel is removed from
the rib, using the visible seam between panels
as
a guide . (Refer to figure 11 .)
Follow
the same 2-part cutting
method
along the roof seams
and any other structural
supports that border damaged
panels . Use
care not to damage structural
components
behind adjacent panels .
All small pieces which
have broken free must be
removed .
ADHESIVE
REMOVAL
Before prefitting or any
further structural
work on the vehicle, the
old
cured adhesive
must be
removed from ribs and body structural
supports
. A suggested method would be to
grind off the adhesive with an
extra coarse
disc on an air driven grinding wheel . An
air
chisel with
Flat End Scraper Bit (J-26805-2)
may also be used .
PREFITTING
A
replacement panel should be
prefitted for
proper
fixturing after panel
has been insulated
and ribs have
been thoroughly
cleaned of
adhesive . This should be
done before the
ribs
have
been solvent wiped or
primed, in order to
prevent
later contamination from dirt,
grease,
fingerprints, etc
. i n the glue line areas .
Next, with the panel
held in place, use
existing holes or drill holes through
the panel
and rib (at each
corner and along the beltline
or roof line) for using
pop-rivets
.
After
drilling first hole, make sure panel is
flat
before
drilling second hole
.
The panel should
not
be bowed between holes .
ABRASION
Aluminum panels and body
frame parts
should be
disc sanded to bare metal
in areas
which
will be bonded . Fiberglass* may also
be
scuffed on
bond line
.
Finished surface will be
rough to the touch .
*Glass fiber reinforced panels, commonly
called fiberglass . Not the same as
fiberglass
insulation referred
to earlier .
SOLVENT
BEFORE WORKING
WITH SOLVENT,BE
SURE TO READ
MANUFACTURER'S
INSTRUCTIONS AND TAKE
ALL NECESSARY
SAFETY
PRECAUTIONS
.
Wipe bond surfaces
on fiberglass
and
aluminum panels and
on body structural

BODY 1A- 11
supports
with Methylene
Chloride
solvent
. It
is
important that all surfaces be clean and free
of surface
contaminants such as shop dirt,
grease, drawing
compounds, and overspray .
Safety gloves should be
worn when cleaning
with solvent
.
PRIMER
BEFORE WORKING WITH PRIMER,BE
SURE TO READ
MANUFACTURER'S IN-
STRUCTIONS AND TAKE ALL
NECESSARY
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . SPECIFICALLY,
AVOID ALL SKIN
CONTACT AND USE ONLY
IN WELL VENTILATED AREA
.
Primer is used because it
will promote
adhesion and help prevent corrosion . It should
be used on
all bond
surfaces
before adhesive is
applied .
It is important
that primer base be
thoroughly agitated
. No settled pigment
should remain on the bottom of the container .
Mix equal parts
by volume of primer base and
accelerator, such as 3M
EC-1945 B/A or
equivalent . Follow manufacturer's mixing and
use instructions .
Primer may be sprayed,
or brushed on with
a
clean
brush . Apply a "mist"
coat or a thin
brush coat of primer to
all sanded structural
surfaces . Do not spray
heavy coat or let
primer run
on surface .
Drying time is dependent upon
ambient
temperature, air movement and
relative
humidity . Cure
primer by air drying or heating
to
a minimum temperature of 1500
F . (65 0 C .)
for 15 to 30 minutes . Temperaturemust
not
exceed 250 O
F
. (121 0
C .)
at
any time
.
Heat
lamps normally used for paint curing may be
used when heat drying . If air
drying, cure for
a
minimum of one hour
at room temperature .
NOTE : Adhesive must
be
applied within 16
hours of primer application to achieve maxi-
mum adhesion .
If primer is exposed beyond
16 hours, surface
must
be
reprepped and
reprimed
.
ADHESIVE
for bonding
aluminum, polyester and steel .
Adhesive should be used onl~ at room temp-
erature of about 750 F . (24 C .) as viscosity
increases at lower temperatures . Also, if heat
dry
has been
used
for primed areas, be
sure
that panels and frame sections to be bonded
are cooled to room temperature before pro-
ceeding . Hot surfaces will
greatly
shorten
adhesive work life and lower ultimate bond
strength .
It is essential that bonding surfaces be
thoroughly clean, dry and grease-free to main-
tain good adhesion .
Also, be
sure that
all
fixtures, clamps, metering devices and safety
equipment are
at
hand before mixing adhesive .
Mix
adhesive just prior to application,
keeping in mind that adhesive work life is from
15 to 30
minutes (normally closer to 15
minutes) .
Follow
manufacturer's mixing and
curing instructions . It is very important that
mix be
"on
ratio"
to
obtain maximum bond
strength .
Using disposable adhesive cartridge and
applicator,
apply
about
a 3/8-inch diameter
bead to bonding surface (either stationary part
or new panel, but not both) . Use two beads for
wide area . Application with putty knife not
recommended . Adhesive must wet total
surface area being bonded to assure maximum
adhesion .
NOTE : After the new panel has been
positioned on the body, it will be necessary
to see a "witness bead" of
excess adhesive
along the edge of the panel . This will assure
that adhesive has been properly applied
.
One
6-oz . cartridge will normally bond about
6-8 lineal feet unless large mismatch
of
parts requires greater quantity .
FIXTURING
Put
replacement panel into position before
adhesive cures and press firmly into place by
hand .
Clean
cotton or plastic gloves are
recommended to prevent contamination of
primed panels and to keep adhesive off the
hands .
BEFORE WORKING WITH BODY AD-
HESIVES,
BE SURE TO READ MANU-
FACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS AND
TAKE 
ALL
NECESSARY SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .
SPECIFICALLY,
AVOID ALL
.
SKIN CONTACT
AND USE ONLY,
IN WELL
VENTILATED
AREA .
Use
adhesive such as manufactured by
Minnesota
Mining and Manufacturing, EC-3549
B/A, or equivalent .
This is a two-part (base
and accelerator) urethane
adhesive designed
NOTE : If adhesive gets
on gloves, they
should be discarded before further handling
of panels . Adhesive
will definitely leave
blemish marks which are difficult to remove
from exterior panel surface .
Next, insert pop-rivets where indicated to
prevent movement
of
panel while adhesive is
curing . Use closed-end (i .e ., waterproof)
rivets for roof seams . Clamp as practical and
necessary
.

1A- 1
2 BODY
Look for "witness bead"
of
excess
adhesive
around panel edges as assurance that adhesive
has
completely "wetted" the glue line area .
Then, remove excessive squeeze-out on ex-
terior within one hour after application .
Use
a
plastic tool or a wooden tongue depressor for
removal
.
Any excess remaining after this can
be
wiped
off with a clean cloth dampened with
white gasoline . (Be sure to use cautions
as
appropriate for flammable
liquids
.) It is
important that excess adhesive
be
removed
before
curing takes place and before pop-
rivets or clamps are removed . Discard all
partially used containers of mixed primer and
adhesive .
CURING
This adhesive
must cure for 24 hours
at
room temperature (65-85
0 F
.)
(18-29 0 C .) before
any structural
work or movement of
the
vehicle is permitted .
This will assure maxi-
mum bonding of
the adhesive . After 24
hours
the rivet heads may be ground
off and the
holes filled with a body putty . Proceed
with
final finishing work .
RUB
RAIL
1976 vehicles are equipped with a new body
rub
rail
which is
installed the length
of the
vehicle at the belt line .
The rub rail is bonded to the belt rail with
double-backed
pressure-sensitive'
adhesive
tape
.
In
addition,
retaining
screws are
used at
the end of each individual strip of rub rail and
at the front and rear side marker lamps to hold
the lamps and the rub rail strips securely in
place .
Rub
rails
may
be
replaced
or repaired
if
necessary . On-vehicle repair may include : (1)
application of adhesive
to a
small area directly
behind rub rail where pressure-sensitive tape is
not secure, or
(2)
addition of fasteners to
secure a larger piece or pieces of the rub rail
which are not adhering to the body . A
combination
of adhesive
and
fasteners may be
necessary in certain repair situations .
If
adhesive is required, use GM#1051910 or
equivalent . Be sure to
follow all
manufac-
turer's safety precautions (included with ad-
hesive package) . If additional fasteners are
required, use a sheet metal screw to fasten rub
rail to belt
rail .
Use GM# 2006755
screw and
washer assembly (or equivalent), or a phos-
phate coated (black) flat or oval headed self
tapping screw
.
Fasteners should
be
approxi-
mately .75" long .
RUB RAIL REPLACEMENT
If
rub
rail
has been badly damaged and needs
replacement, perform the following :
REMOVAL
1 . Remove
screws from
ends
of
damaged
rub rail pieces
.
If side marker lamp is
damaged, remove screws
(2)
holding marker
lamp into
rub
rail . Pull lamp forward and
disconnect bulb socket from lamp . Take lamp
out
.
2 . With all retaining
screws removed, pull
rub
rail off of vehicle .
INSTALLATION
NOTE : Do not clean
surface to be bonded
or
peel off
adhesive tape
backing from rub
rail
until just prior
to installation of rub
rail . If
marker lamp
was damaged,
install new
marker lamp assembly .
Connect bulb socket
and fasten two
retaining screws .
When the
bonding operation is to be
performed ; the rub rail and
the bondin% sur-
face should
be at a temperature of 70

to
90 0 E (21
.1
0 to 32 .2
°
C) .
If practical, it is
desirable to lay the new rub rail out flat in
the
same environment as
the vehicle for 24 hours
prior to installation . This
will
assure
tempera-
ture equilibrium between the replacement
part
and
the application area . It will also help
to
eliminate problems of shrinkage
and curling .
Clean
the bonding surface on the vehicle
thoroughly with isopropyl
alcohol or equiva-
lent . Dry the surface with a clean (lint-free)
cloth . It is important
that bonding surface
remain clean and oil-free . Bond
will not hold
if surface contamination
exists .
After cleaning ; when ready to
install
rub
rail, peel off backing paper . Line
the
strip up
evenly with one
edge of the aluminum belt
rail . Do not touch the surface with hands
and
do not allow the tape backing to come into
contact with dirt or foreign
matter
.
Apply the
rub rail with a uniform pressure of 20
lbs
.
minimum to seal the adhesive tape
to the
bonding surface
.
Secure rub rail pieces with
screws where called for .

BODY
1A- 1 3
ENTRANCE
DOOR
DOOR STRAP
The
vehicle entrance door now has a check
strap (figure 12) to prevent the
door from
opening out too
far
and making contact with
the body panel . The strap
assembly and
bracket hardware may be replaced if
necessary .
Figure 12-Door Strap
END CAP
NOTE : When
installing new or repaired rear access
panel,
32
retaining screws are
needed .
The seven lower screws are
self tapping . The remaining 25 screws, on
the sides
and top of the rear access panel,
are double helix thread ("hi-low")
screws . To prevent
damage to the threads in the
vehicle fiberglass body when
hi-
low
screws are installed, be
sure to position screw in hole and then
rotate
counterclockwise
. IMPORTANT : Before
screws are installed, sealing is required
to prevent
water leaks in the
vehicle . Using a caulking
gun or any suitable
applicator, apply
a small amount of clear, air-dry
rubber-based sealer into the
screw holes in the fiberglass body .
Sealer can be a butyl-type
sealer,
an
RTV
silicone, a
windshield repair sealer, or equivalent
.
FLOOR
GENERAL INFORMATION
figure 13 for typical layout . Note that sub-
The floor and floor sub-structure in late

structure may vary with specific optional
model 1976 vehicles have changed . Refer to

equipment .

1A- 1 4 BODY
Figure 73-Wheel Housing, Floor, and
Floor Sub-Structure (Typical)

SECTION 2
FRAME
The information described
in
Maintenance
Manual
X-7525
under
the
heading
FRAME (SEC . 2) is applicable to models covered by this
supplement with the ex-
ception of the
following
illustration of the new front body mountings and body
insulators
(figure
1) .
Figure 1-Body Mountings

2-2
FRAME

SECTION 3A
FRONT SUSPENSION
CAUTION : FRONT SUSPENSION FASTENERS
AREIMPORTANT ATTACHING PARTS IN THAT THEY
COULD AFFECT THE PERFORMANCE OF
VITAL
COMPONENTS
AND SYSTEMS, AND/OR COULD
RESULT IN MAJOR REPAIR EXPENSE . THEY MUST BE REPLACED
WITH ONE OF THE SAME PART
NUMBEROR WITH AN EQUIVALENTPART IF REPLACEMENT BECOMES NECESSARY .
D O NOT USE
A REPLACEMENT PART
OF
LESSER QUALITY OR SUBSTITUTE DESIGN . TORQUE
VALUES MUST
BE USED AS SPECIFIED DURING REASSEMBLY TO ASSURE PROPER
RETENTION
OF
THIS
PART
.
NOTE : Never
attempt to heat, quench or straighten any front suspension com-
ponent . Replace it
with
a
new part
.
The information described in
Maintenance Manual X-7525 under the heading
FRONT SUSPENSION (SEC . 3A) is applicable to
models covered by this supplement
with the exception of
the following :
Contents of
this section are listed below :
SUBJECT

PAGE NO
.
Front
Suspension and Steering Trouble Diagnosis

..........

3A-1
Inspection Procedure

. ... ......... . . . . ....

3A-2
General
Description
... . . . .... .............

3A-9
Component Replacement . ........

...........

3A-10
Disc and
Hub
. .......... . . . ...........

3A-10
Hub Bearing .
..
.
....... .
.. ... . . ......

3A-11
Disc

.......
.. . .

...... ... :
.`
., ....
. .

3A-11
Knuckle Seal .............. ...........

3A-11
Knuckle ... . ...... . . . ............
-
. .

3A-12
Upper
Control Arm . . ... . ... .............

3A-14
Upper
Control Arm Bushing

.... . . ............

3A-14
Lower Control Arm ... . ...... ....... _ . . . ..

3A-15
Lower Control
Arm Bushing

. ....... . .'

. . . . .
. .

3A-16
Ball Joint . . . . ... . . . . . . ........ . . . ..

3A-16
Ball
Joint Checks . . .... .

. . . . . . . . . ..... .

3A-16
Lower
Control Arm Ball Joint

. .

.

. . . .

..... . ....

3A-17
Upper
Control Arm Ball Joint ..................

3A-17
Stabilizer Bar

...... . . . . . .............

3A-17
Shock Absorber . . . . ........ ............

3A-18
Torsion Bar and Crossmember Support ... ...........

3A-18
Alignment and Ride Height .

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

3A-19
Ride Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... ... ...

3A-19
Front End Alignment

. . ......... ..... . ....

3A-20
Torque Specifications ......................

3A-21
Special Tools ........... . . .............

3A-22
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
Before making any
adjustment
to a vehicle because
of suspension, steering and
tire wear problems, it is necessary to make a preliminary inspection
of all moving
parts from
the
steering wheel to the road wheels .
Wear, looseness or binding of
any
of
the
moving parts
of the steering system and
suspension system will
affect vehicle alignment . Vehicle misalignment
cannot be
corrected as long as conditions of bind or
looseness exist . A complete inspection
should be made, even
if the cause of the problem is suspected .
--3A-1