GREAT PLANES F-15 EAGLE User manual

(Armament package sold separately)
WARRANTY
Great Planes Model Manufacturing Co.,Inc.guarantees this kit to befreefrom defects inboth
material and workmanship atthe date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged byuse or modification. Innocase shall Great Planes' liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
Inthat Great Planes has nocontrol over the final assembly or material used forfinal assembly, no
liabilityshall beassumed nor accepted forany damage resulting fromthe use by the user of the final user-
assembled product. Bythe act of using the user-assembled product the user accepts all resulting
liability.
Ifthe buyer isnotprepared to accept the liability associated with the useof this product, he
isadvised to immediately return this kitinnewandunusedcondition to the place of purchase for a
full refund.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST.
ITCONTAINS IMPORTANTINSTRUCTIONSAND
WARNINGSCONCERNINGTHE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.
P.OBOX788URBANA ILLINOIS61801217398-8970
EntireContentsc 1993,Hobbico,IncF154P03V1.0

LAST MINUTEADDITIONS
Staple thisinsideyour book
1.Instep 5 on page 24 and instep 3 on page
40, we have provided a slightly different style of
nylon torque rod horn than shown. You will need to
drill thesehorns witha 7/64" drill and tap them
usingthe 6-32 thread-cutting screw provided.
F154ADD1

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION.............................................3
PRECAUTIONS...........................................3
OTHER ITEMSREQUIRED........................4
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED..............4
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE NOW........5
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS ..................... 5
TYPES OF WOOD ...................................... 5
GET READY TO BUILD...............................5
DIE-CUT PARTS DRAWING ....................... 6
TAIL FEATHERS ............................................ 7
BUILD THE FINAND RUDDER...................7
BUILD THE STAB. AND ELEVATOR ........... 8
TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES AND
TORQUE RODS...........................................9
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY................................10
PREPARE FUSESIDES.............................10
MOUNTENGINEAND INSTALLSERVOS.......18
BUILD THE NOSE SECTION .....................22
INSTALL THE RECEIVER BATTERY..........23
GLUE THE STABS ON ............................... 24
MAKE ELEVATOR PUSHROD....................25
FINISHUPTHE FUSELAGE...................... 26
WING..............................................................28
SPARS ........................................................ 28
BUILDTHE WING PANELS........................29
INSTALL WING TOP SHEETING................33
INSTALLTHEBOTTOMWINGSHEETING......35
INSTALLTHEAILERONTORQUERODS........38
ASSEMBLEAILERONS..............................39
INSTALLAILERON SERVO........................40
FINISHINGTHEWING...............................41
FINAL ASSEMBLY.........................................42
MAKE RUDDER PUSHRODS .................... 42
FITTHEWINGTOTHEFUSE...................42
PREPARETHECANOPY...........................43
BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY.... 44
FINAL SANDING.........................................44
COVERING.................................................44
GLUE FINS INPLACE................................44
GLUE THE AILERON HINGES...................44
GLUE TAIL FEATHER HINGES ..................45
COCKPIT&SEAT.......................................45
GLUE CANOPY INPLACE......................... 46
DECALSANDTRIM....................................46
WING SEATING..........................................47
RE-INSTALL ENGINE & RADIO .................47
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS................ 47
BALANCE YOUR MODEL ..........................47
FINALHOOKUPS AND CHECKS...............48
PRE-FLIGHT..................................................49
CHARGE THE BATTERIES........................49
FINDA SAFE PLACE TO FLY....................49
GROUND CHECK THE MODEL.................49
RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO ..................49
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............. 49
AMA SAFETY CODE ..................................50
FLYING...........................................................50
TAKEOFF....................................................50
FLYING........................................................50
LANDING ....................................................51
2-VIEW DRAWING.........................................52
METRIC CONVERSIONS
1"= 25.4mm(conversionfactor)
1/64"= .4mm
1/32"= .8mm
1/16"=1.6 mm
3/32"= 2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4 mm
3/16"=4.8 mm
1/4" =6.4 mm
3/8"= 9.5mm
1/2"=12.7 mm
5/8" =15.9 mm
3/4"=19 mm
1"=25.4mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6"= 152.4mm
12"=304.8mm
15" =381 mm
18"=457.2mm
21"=533.4mm
24"= 609.6 mm
30" = 762 mm
36"=914.4mm
2

WARNING! THISISNOTA TOY! THISISNOTA
BEGINNER'S AIRPLANE!
This R/C kit and the model you will build isnota toy! Itiscapable of serious bodily harm
and property damage ITISYOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE, to build this kitcorrectly,
properly install allR/C components andflying gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc)and to test the model
and flyitonly with experienced, competent help, using common sense and inaccordance with all safety
standards asset down inthe Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code Itissuggested that you join
the AMA and become properly insured beforeyouattempt to flythismodel IFYOU AREJUST
STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY
OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FINDAN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR INYOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
1810 Samuel Morse Dr
Reston, VA 22090 [phone]
address and phone
expires June 30,1993
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 E Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN47302 [phone]
Change of Address and phone
active July 1,1993
INTRODUCTION
Congratulationsandthankyoufor
purchasing the Great Planes F-15EAGLE!
The GreatPlanesF-15is a high
performance propeller-drivensport airplane that
resembles the real F-15 EagleInthe air,the prop
isinvisible, adding to the realism The smoothness
and speed of this airplane allow you to experience
the thrills of flyinga Jet-likeairplanewithout the
complexity and high cost of a ducted fanmodel.
Andyet,theF-15 is verystable and forgiving,
allowing even less-experienced pilots to enjoy it
Please inspect all partscarefully
before starting to build! Ifany parts are
missing,broken or defective,or ifyou
haveanyquestionsaboutbuildingor
flyingthisairplane,pleasecallus at
[phone] and we'll beglad to help.If
youarecallingforreplacementparts,
please look upthe part numbers and the
kitidentification number (stamped on the
end of the carton) and have them ready
when calling.
PRECAUTIONS
This isnota beginner's airplane! While the
F-15 Eagle isnothardto build and flies great, we
must discourage you from selecting this kitasyour
firstR/CairplaneIt is veryfast,highly
maneuverable,andlackstheself-recovery
characteristics of a good basic trainer such asthe
Great Planes PTSeries airplanes Onthe other
hand, ifyou are confident with your flying skill and
can safelyhandle aileron airplanes such as the
Great Planes Big Stik Series airplanes, theF-15
isanexcellent choice
1Youmustbuildtheplaneaccording to the
plans and instructions. Donotalter or modify
the model, as doing so may result inan unsafe or
unflyable model Ina fewcases the plans and
instructions maydiffer slightly from the photos In
those instances you should assume the plans and
writteninstructionsare correctAlso,you may
notice a slight difference inlength between longer
parts and the plans This isnormal and iscaused
by the plans expandingand shrinkingwiththe
changingmoisturecontentin the air Donot
modify the parts to fit the plan.
2.You musttake time to build straight, true
andstrong IMPORTANT - Glue should never be
substitutedfora good-fittingjointTake a little
extratime toget a good fittingjointand glue it
properly and itwill be stronger, neater, and much
lighter than a badjoint heldtogether with a globof
glue!
3

3.You must use a proper R/Cradiothat isin
firstclass condition and meets the currentAMA
andFCCrequirements and the requirements of
your local flying club, the correct sized engine and
correct components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.).
4.You must properly installallR/C and other
components so that the model operates properly
on the ground and inthe air
5.Youmusttest the operationofthe model
before the firstand each successive flight to insure
that allequipment isoperating, and you must make
certain that the model hasremained structurally
sound.
6You mustflythemodel only with the
competent helpof a well experienced R/C pilotif
you are notalreadyan experiencedand
knowledgeable R/C pilotatthis time.
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can
provide you with a top quality kit and
great instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it;
therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no
representations are expressed or
implied as to the performance or safety
of your completed model.
Remember:Take yourtimeandfollow
directions to end upwith a well-built model that
isstraight and true.
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
DFour-channel radiowith 4 servos
DPropellers(seeengineinstructionsfor
recommended sizes)
D2-1/4" Spinner (Hobbico® 2-1/4" Jet spinner
(HCAQ3750) recommended)
D2-3/4" MainWheels (Great Planes GPMQ4204
recommended) See page 5
D2-1/4" Nose Wheel (Great Planes GPMQ4202
recommended) See page 5
D10oz Fuel Tank (GreatPlanes GPMQ4104
recommended)
D5/32" Wheel Collars- (6needed) (2packages
of GPMQ4306)
DIron-on Covering Material (2rolls) (TopFlite®
Aluminum Super MonoKote® recommended)
DFuelproof Paint for trim We used Chevron
"Perfect Paint" silver on the turtle deck
DSemi-flexible Pushrods (2-sets) (GPMQ3714)
DSilicone FuelTubing (GPMQ1234)
D1/16"thick Wing Seating Tape (GPMQ4422))
D1/4"thick Latex Foam Rubber Padding
DPlasticPilot. WilliamsBros Military1-1/2"
Scale #171
DQuick-Connectors - (3needed) (2packages of
GPMQ3870)
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
D2 oz Thin CA Adhesive (TopFlite Supreme)
D2 oz Medium or Thick CA Adhesive (Supreme)
D30-Minute Epoxy (Bullet)
DHandor Electric Drill
DDrillBits 1/16", 5/64", 7/64",1/8",5/32",3/16",
13/64",1/4"and 5/16"
DSealingIron(HobbicoorTopFliterecommended)
DHeatGun(HobbicoorTopFliterecommended)
DHobby Saw (Razor Saw)
DHobby Knife, #11 Blades
DScrew Drivers
DT-Pins
DStraightedge
DStrapping Tape (Required for construction)
DSandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit) *
DT-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
DWaxed Paper
DLightweight Balsa Filler (Hobbico Hobbylite™)
DVaseline Petroleum Jelly
DIsopropyI Rubbing Alcohol (70%)
D3M "77"Spray Adhesive (optional)
DDremel Moto Toolor similar (optional)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11"
T-Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100
and #150-grit sandpaper. We also keep
some #320-grit sandpaper handy for finish
sanding, beforecovering.
4

DECISIONS YOU MUSTMAKE NOW
ENGINE,MOUNT AND MUFFLER
SELECTION
Therecommended engine forthe F-15
isa .40*- .50cubic inch displacement 2-cycle
*NOTE Performance may bemarginal ifa non-
schneurle-ported40 cu in2-Cycleengine is
used The engine you select will determine how
youbuild thefuselagenose section,so itis
importantthatyou have theenginecloseat
handwhilebuildingBecauseofthesize
limitations and the nature of this model, 4-cycle
engines are more difficult to install and balance
andtherefore are notrecommended.
Thiskitincludesa GreatPlanes
EM4070 adjustable engine mount (or similar
mount)thatwillfitmost .40 - .61 (2-Cycle)
engines Ifthe supplied mount does notfityour
engine,it may be necessarytopurchasea
different mount (check withyour hobby dealer).
SELECTION OF WHEELS
Tosave weight, we recommend using Great
Planes Ultralight wheels REMEMBER: Large
wheels are ugly and unrealistic on a model of
this type, so try to keep the wheels assmall as
possible
Ifyou will be flyingfrom a concrete or
asphalt runway,werecommend2-1/4" main
wheels anda 2"nosewheel.
Forgrass fields, larger wheels willbe
required, suchas 2-3/4"main wheelsand a
2-1/4"to 2-1/2" nose wheel
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
USED INTHIS BOOK AND
ON THE PLANS:
Elev= Elevator
Fuse= Fuselage
LE= Leading Edge(front)
LG= Landing Gear
Ply= Plywood
Stab= Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge(rear)
Tri= Triangle
"= Inches
TYPES OF WOOD
Balsa Basswood Plywood
GET READY TO BUILD
THE F-15
D1.Unroll the plan sheetsand re-roll them
insideoutto helpthem lieflat.
D2 Remove allparts from the box As you do,
figure out the name of each part by comparing it
with the plans and the parts listatthe back of this
book Using a felttip pen, writethe part name or
sizeon each piece to avoid confusion later Use
the die-cutpartpatternsshownon page6 to
identify the die-cut parts but do notpunch them out
untilyou are ready to use them Save all scraps.
Ifany of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out,
do not forcethem' Instead, firstcut around the
parts witha hobby knife Afterpunching out the
die-cut parts, use your T-Bar or sanding block to
lightly sand the edges to remove any die-cutting
irregularities.
D3 Asyouidentifyandmarktheparts,
separatethemintogroups,suchasfuse
(fuselage),wing,finand stab (stabilizer),and
hardware.
5

6
DIE-CUTPATTERNS

TAIL FEATHERS
BUILD THE FINAND RUDDER
Note: The construction sequence that
follows does not require building over
the plans. You will however,
occasionally need to refer to the plans.
DD 1.Gluethe 1/4"balsaforward fin piece
(F154R01)tothe1/4"balsaaftfinpiece
(F154R02) so theirbottoms are even with each
other.
DD 3.Cut the 1/4" sq. x 7-7/8" basswood
stick (F154R04)in halftomake twofintips
approximately 3-7/8" long . Holda fin tip inplace
on top of the fin so the aft end justoverlaps the fin
TE. Mark on the fin tip where the finLEstarts.
Remove the fin tip. Carve and sand the front of
the fintip to a round cross section butdonotsand
behindthe lineyou just made.
DD 4.Glue the fintip to the top of the fin.
Sandtheaft edgeof the tipflush with the fin TE.
DD 2.Using the plans as a guide, cut the top
2-1/2" off a 1/4" balsa rudder (F154R03) witha
razor saw. Glue the top portion to the aft fin piece
as shownabove.The bottomedge of thetop
portion should beparallel with the bottom edge of
the fin.
DD 5. Usea sandingblockwithmedium
(150) grit sandpaper to sand the edges and both
sidesofthefinsmooth.Carefullydrawa
centerline all around the edges of the finand
rudder. Thiswillmakeit easiertomaintain
symmetry when sandinglater.
7

DD 6.Usinga sanding block and coarse (50
or80-grit)sandpaper,sandbothsidesof the
rudder to a taper (see cross-sectionon plans).
The trailingedge shouldend up approximately
3/32"wide. (Do not sand to a sharp edge). Leave
thetopand bottomedgessquare.Sand the
leading edgeof the rudder toa "V-shape" as
shown on the plan.HINT:Itisa good idea to keep
new, sharp sandpaper on yoursanding blocks.
You will notice that it"cuts" the wood andthe glue
cleaner andproduces a much smoother finish.
DD 7.Sand the leading edge of the fin to a
rounded shape (see cross-section on plans). Sand
the trailingedge of the fin(above the rudder) to
the same taper asthe rudder. Donotsand the TE
ofthe fin where the rudder will beattached.
D8.Go back to step 1 andbuildanother fin and
rudder.
DD 2.Test fitthe1/4" balsamiddle stab
piece (F154S02) inplace. Sand itifnecessary to
achieve a good fitand glue itinplace. Sand the
rootof the stab until all three pieces are even with
eachother.
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND
ELEVATORS
DD 3.Positionthe1/4"balsaelevator
(F154S04) over the plan and mark where the stab
tip will becut off.Cut the tip off with a razor saw
and glue itto the stab rear. Dothis over the plans
so you will besure to position itcorrectly.
Note: The construction sequence that
follows does not require building over
the plans. You will however,
occasionally need to refer to the plans.
DD 1.Gluethe1/4" balsaforwardstab
piece (F154S01) to the 1/4"balsa aft stab piece
(F154S03) so the root ends are even witheach
other.
DD 4.Position the 1/4" x 1/2" x 18" balsa
stick (F154S05) over the plans and cut itinhalfat
an angletomakethestableadingedge
extensions.Glue an extensionto the leading
edge of the stab, and sand itto match the contour
of the stabasshown ontheplans.
8

DD 5.Use a sandingblockwithmedium
(150) grit sandpaper to sand the edges and both
sidesofthestabsmooth.Carefullydrawa
centerline all around the edges of the stab and
elevator.Thiswillmake iteasierto maintain
symmetry when sanding later.
D6.Sand thetipand leadingedges of the stab
to a rounded shape (see cross-section on plans).
D7.Nowgo backand buildtheother side.
TEMPORARILY INSTALL HINGES
AND TORQUE RODS
D1.Cut24 hinges 3/4" x 1"from the 2" x 9" CA
hingestrip.
(NYLON87).
3/4-
Clipoffthe corners
ofeach hinge.HingeCenter Line
D2.Usingtheplansasa guide,markthe hinge
locations on the stabs, elevators, finsand rudders.
Also designate one of each as being "right" and
the others as"left".
CAUTION!!!: You must use extremecare
when cutting hingeslots with a hobby knife,
to avoid cutting yourself! Ifthe balsa part
breaks while you are pushing on the knife,
the blade could go into your hand before
you know it!A good precaution isto wear
leathergloveswhileperformingthe
following steps.
A. Beginbycarefully cutting a very shallow
slitatthe hinge location. The firstcut isto
establish your cut inthe right place, so
concentrateon stayingon the line and
don't cuttoo deep.
B.Make three or four morecuts inthesame
line, going slightly deeper each time. As
you make these additional cuts, work on
going straight into the wood. Continue this
process while "wiggling" the knife handle
forward and backward until the blade has
reachedthe proper depth for thehinge.
C.Trialfitthe hinge into the slot. Ifthe hinge
isdifficult to push in,re-insert the knife and
move itback and forthinthe slota few
times to enlarge the slot. Donotgluethe
hinges yet.
D4.Using the plans forreference,mark the
locationof the torque rods on the elevators. Drill
a1/8" hole 1-1/8"deep into each elevatoras
shown inthe photo.
D2.Cut the hinge slots on the centerlines you
drew earlier.Our recommendedhinge slotting
method isdescribed inthe next column.
D5.Groove the elevator leading edge to accept
the torque rodwire. HINT:Usea hobbyknife to
9

and2"long, from the border of a die-cut 1/8"sheet.
Glue this piece to the inside of the stab tip. Sand it
tothe contour of the stab as shown inthe photo.
D9.Trial fitall these parts together using the
torque rods and hinges. Check the operation of
theelevators, butdo notglueanything yet.
sharpen the insideof one endof a 1/8"diameter
brass tube, and use itto cut this groove.
FUSELAGE
ASSEMBLY
PREPARE FUSE SIDES
D6.Groove the stab TE to accept the torque
rod wireand nylonbearingtube.Ideally,the
torquerod shouldbe centeredon theelevator
hinge line.Use a sharpened 3/16"diameter brass
tube to cut the groove forthe nylon bearing tube
anda 1/8"brasstubefor the wire.
D7.Usinga sanding block and coarse (50 or
80-grit)sandpaper,sandbothsidesofeach
elevator to a taper (see cross-section on plans).
The trailingedgeshouldend up approximately
3/32" wide (Do not sand to a sharp edge). Leave
the ends square. Sand the leading edge of the
elevator to a "V-shape" as shown on the plan.
Sand the trailing edge of the stab tip to the same
taperasthe elevator.
DD 1.Working over the fuselage side view
covered with waxed paper, trial fita die-cut 1/8"
balsa forwardfuseside (F154F02),forward
fusesidetop(F154F03)andaftfuseside
(F154F01) together, sanding as necessary fora
good fit.Use a straight edge along the bottoms to
keepthemalignedandgluethem together.
NOTE: If this is your second time
through, remember to make a right and
aleft side.
DD 8.Cuta pieceof1/8"balsa,1/4"wide
DD 2.Position a die-cut 3/32" balsa lower
fuse doubler (F154F11) by lining itupwiththe
landing gear block cut-out and the bottom of the
fuse side. Apply thin CA allaround the doubler to
glueitinplace.
10

DD 3.Position a die-cut 3/32" balsa upper
fuse side doubler (F154F08) near the top of the
fuse side so itfits against the lower fuse doubler.
Note that the aft portion of this doubler isrecessed
1/8"below the top of the fuseside to allow forthe
cockpit bottom. Glue the doubler to the fuseside
by applyingthinCA aroundall edgesofthe
doubler.
NOTE: The doublers stop 1/4"
before the front of the fuse side to
align the firewall.
D6.Drilla 3/16"holeateach of the two punch
marks on the die-cut 1/8"ply former F5(F154F16).
Slide formers F5, F6and F7(F154F17) intotheir
respective slots and carefully twist them into place.
Thephotoshowsthesequenceusedto
accomplish this. Slide the formerinto the slots,
androtatethem90 degreesuntiltheyare
positioned as shown inthe photo above. Donot
glue them yet. Make sure they are upright and
notinverted!
DD 4.Position a die-cut3/32" balsawing
saddle doubler (F154F10) as shown inthe photo.
Noticethattheaftedgeof thefrontportionis
aligned with the aft edge of the fuse doubler top.
Thetop surface of the doubler should beflush with
the edge of the fuse side.
D5.Go backtostep1 andbuildanother
fuselage side. Be sure to make a right and a left
side!
NOTE - in the following steps, the
fuselage will be assembled without
being securely glued together. This
technique allows all of the self aligning
parts to be installed before the fuselage
is locked together with glue.
D7.Drilla 3/16"holeateach of the two punch
marks on the die-cut 1/8"ply formerF4(F154F17).
Install F4by sliding itupfromthe bottom of the
fuse. Tack glue itinplace against the aft edgeof
the landinggear block slot.
11

D8.Securelyglue die-cut1/8" ply formerF3B
to formerF3A (F154F15). Align itwiththe hole
and the tabs inF3A as shown inthe photo. Notice
thatthe nose gear doubler is the lightening
holefrom F3.Save this piece. Drill 3/16" holes
atthe two punch marks onF3A.
D11.FlipformerF2over and drill a 5/64" hole at
each of the fournose gear bearing punch marks.
Also drilla 3/16" hole at the remaining punch mark
forthe throttlepushrod. Attachthe nylon nose
gearbearing(NYLON33)usingfour
#4 x 1/2" screwsfSCRW004^.
D9.Tack glue F3inplace inthe fuselagewith
F3Btowards the nose of the plane. Only apply a
couple drops of thin CA on the bottom half of F3.
You will glue the top portion of the former later.
Apply a drop of thin CA to the
back sideof each #4screwto
keepthem from vibrating loose.
D12.Tack glue F2into the fuse with a few drops
of thinCA.Thenosegearbearingshouldbe
towards the rear of the fuselage.
D10.Gluethedie-cut1/8" plynose gear
doubler(fromformerF3A)toformerF2
(F154F16). Locate iton the side opposite the
nose gear bearing punch marks and justabove the
bottom of the former (not the tab) asshown.
D13.Lay the die-cut 1/8"balsa aft fuse bottom
(F154F05) in place and allow the formersto key
intothe notches inthe bottom. Center the aft fuse
bottom on former F4and tack glueitinplacewith
thinCA.
12

D14.Slidethedie-cut1/8" plyservotray
(F154F15) down into the slot through which F5
was inserted. Itisa tight fit,but insert one tab into
the slot and thentwistthe othertab into place.
Slidethe tray upagainst F-5andglue itinplace.
Now thattheafthalfofthefuselageis held
straight, add glue to F4, F5,F6,F7and the aft fuse
bottom to securely hold everything together. We
recommend applying thin CA to alljoints, followed
bymedium CA.
D15.Lay thedie-cut1/8" balsa forwardfuse
bottom (F154F04) inplace and allow formersF2
and F3 tokey into it. Centertheforwardfuse
bottomat theLGblockand tackgluethefuse
bottom to the fusesides between F-2 and the LG
block. Donot glue forwardof F-2 atthis time.
D16.Locate the die-cut 1/8"ply F-1A and F1B
(F154F15) and use a fine sanding block to remove
anyfuzzyedges.Use epoxytogluethetwo
pieces together making a 1/4"thick firewall. Make
sure they are accurately lined upwith one another
and the side of F1A withthe punch marks is
showing.Wipeoffany excessgluebeforeit
cures.Glue the1/8" x 2-3/8"x 2-3/8"plywood
firewall doubler (F154F30) to F1B. Itshould be
positioned approximately 3/8" above the bottom of
the firewall and centered side to side.
D17.Ifyou are using the supplied Great Planes
Adjustable Engine Mount (EM4070), drill a 5/32"
hole at each of the fourpunch marks on the face of
the firewall.Ifyou are using another mount, center
iton theembossedcenterlinestodetermine
where to drill the holes.
D18.Laythe firewalldown with F1A against the
work surface. Use a hammer to gently tap a 6-32
blindnut(NUTS003)mtoeach5/32"hole.
Temporarilyattachthe
enginemounttothe
firewallwiththe 6-32 x 1"
socketheadbolts
(SCRW078) to make sure
theholesarein the
correctposition.Adjust
theholesifnecessary
andthen adda beadof thick CA or epoxy around
each blind nut to hold them inplace. Donot allow
the glue to get on the threads.
D19.Useepoxy to securely gluethe firewall into
place making sureitiscenteredon the forward
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fusebottom. The firewallshould bepositioned
againstthefusedoublerstoproperlysetthe
engine down thrust. Apply thin CA along the fuse
side/forward fuse bottomjoint.
D22. Pull the fusesides uptight against the top
portionof formerF3and securelyglue themin
place. Strapping tape can be used to hold the fuse
sides inplace while the glue cures. Add glue to all
the frontfusejointsto securely glue everything
together.
D20.Slidethe 1/2"x 30" balsa triangle stock
(WSTR014) through one of the triangular holes at
the bottom of the firewalluntil ittouches formerF2.
Cut the 1/2"triangle off flush with the frontof the
firewall. Press the triangle into the corner formed
by the fuseside and thefusebottom and apply
thin CA along the edges of the triangle.Install
another piece of 1/2" balsa triangleon the other
side of thefuselage.Sand the fusesides,fuse
bottom andthe triangle flush with the frontof the
firewall.
D21.Cut three 1-7/8"long pieces of 1/4"balsa
triangle fromthe 1/4"x 30" balsa triangle stock
(WSTR015). Glueoneof thepiecesintothe
corner formed bythe firewalland the fusebottom.
Glue the other twopieces into the corners formed
by the firewall and the fusesides. Note: you may
need to trim the triangle to get itto fit.
D23.Trial fitthe die-cut3/32" balsa forward
turbineside (F154F06),theaftturbineside
(F154F07) and the turbineside top(F154F08)
togetheron a flatsurfacecoveredwithwaxed
paper.Sand them ifnecessary to get them to fit
togethernicely.Use a straightedge alongthe
bottom edges to keep them aligned and glue them
together withthin CA. Note: Donot lose the
die-cut gussets that are inF154F06.
D24. Gluethedie-cut3/32"balsaforward
turbine top (F154F12) inplace. Assemble the
other turbine side.
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asshown inthe photo. Make sure the bottom of
the former isflush with the bottom of both the fuse
sideand the turbine side.
D25.Glue a die-cut 3/32" balsa turbine doubler
(F154F10) to each turbine side. They should be
aligned with the wing saddles. Besuretomakea
rightand a left turbine side!
D28. Installtheotherturbineside and front
turbine formerusing the same technique described
above.
D26. Glue a turbine side ontoformersF4and
F5.Pullthe turbine side upagainst formerF7and
make sure the bottom of the turbine side islevel
with the bottom of the former. Glue itto the former.
Dothe same forformer F6and then goback and
addthick CA to each joint.
D29. Test fitthe7/16" x 5/8" x 6-5/8" grooved
basswood landing gear block (F154F21) into its
slot inthe bottom of the fuselage. Trim the slot or
sand the ends of the block if necessary to get the
landing gear block to fit.Securely glue itinplace.
D27. Snap the die-cut 1/8" balsa front turbine
former (F154F13) into itsslots andglue itinplace
D30.Glue the die-cut 3/32" balsa fuselage side
landinggear doublers (F154F08) to the outside
of eachfuse side asshown inthe photo.
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D31.Glue the fourdie-cut1/8" balsa turbine
side landing gear doublers(F154F03)tothe
insideof eachturbine side as shown inthe photo. D34.Cut eight 7-1/2" long fin and stab braces
fromthetwo1/8"x 1/2"x 30"balsasticks
(F154F29). Glue these inplace as shown on the
plans and inthe photo. They should besecurely
attached to formers F6and F7.The stab braces
should also be attached to the turbine sides. The
top of the finbraces should beflushwith the top of
the formers.
D32.Securely glue (using epoxy) the two 7/16"x
5/8" x 1-1/4" groovedbasswoodshort landing
gearblocks(F154F22)in placeagainstthe
fuselageside doubler.The groovedside of the
blocks should beagainst the fuse doubler. D35.Cut two 15-3/4" long pieces of 1/4"x 30"
balsa triangle (WSTR015). Glue these inside the
top edge of each turbineside fromF5rearward.
Make sure the top edge of the triangle isflush with
the top edge of the turbine side.
D33.Drilltwo5/32"holesthroughthelong
landing gear blockby using thegroovesin the
short blocks as guides. Cut two1-1/2" long pieces
of 1/4" balsa triangle.Glue them to the frontof
each short L.G. Block. These are not shown inthe
photos, but are illustrated on the fuselage plan.
D36.Flipthe fuselage over andinstall1/4"balsa
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triangle along the bottom edge of the turbines. Do
notinstall triangle over the landing gear doublers.
The triangle should extend all the way fromthe
front to the aftends of the turbine sides. Make
sure the bottom edge of the triangle isflush with
the bottom edge of the turbine side.
D39.Trim and sand the edges of the turbine
bottoms flush with the turbine sides and fronts.
SUGGESTION: From this point on, we
recommend using a padded "cradle"
such as a Robart Super Stand to protect
the fuselage from dents and dings. You
can modify the stand to fit the fuselage
by cutting one upright off flat and
enlarging the other upright to fit the
front of the fuselage. Line the uprights
with foam rubber to protect the plane.
D37. Glue a 1/8" x 2" x 25" balsa aft turbine
bottom (F154F14) inplace. Itisbutt-gluedup
against the LGblock and the bottom fusesheeting,
so hold itflush with the bottom sheeting while you
glue itwith thin CA. Add a bead of medium CA
inside the fuselage to reinforcethis joint. Glue the
other aft turbine bottom inplace.
D40.Glue twodie-cut 3/32" balsa turbine inlet
sheetingpieces (F154F09) together.
D38.Gluea die-cut 1/8"balsa forward turbine
bottom (F154F13) inplace.Itis butt-gluedup
against the bottom fusesheeting so hold itflush
with the bottom sheeting while you glue itwith thin
CA. Add a bead of medium or thick CA inside the
fuselagetoreinforcethisjoint.Glue the other
forward turbine bottom inplace.
D41. Glue the inlet sheeting inplace inits slot
near the frontof a turbine. Bend the turbine side in
to meet the inlet sheeting as shown inthe photo
and glue itto the sheeting.Assembletheother
turbine inlet sheeting and glue itinplace on the
other turbine. Sand the inlet sheeting flushwith
thebottom sheeting andthe turbine sides.
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(COCKPIT BOTTOM NOT SHOWN)
D42. Temporarilyinstallthedie-cut1/8" ply
cockpit bottom (F154F16) to hold thefuselage
sides inposition. Cut six 1-3/4" long pieces of
turbine forwardtop sheeting fromthe 3/32" x 3" x
12"balsa sheet (F154F26). Starting at the frontof
the turbine, glue three pieces along the top edge of
each turbineside.Sand themslightlytomake
them fitnicely upagainst the fuselage side. Make
sure the sheeting isinstalled so itislevel (parallel
withthefusebottom).Sandtheedgesof the
sheeting flushwith the turbine side and the turbine
inlet sheeting. The aft end of the sheeting must be
even with the aft edge of former F-3.Remove the
cockpit bottom.
D2.Now youmay use one of the following
methods to attach your engine to the mount:
Method 1:Screw the #6 x 3/4"sheet metal
screws (SCRW018) through the engine mounting
flange and into the mount. When
firstinstalling these screws,put a
dropof oil into each screw hole.
Method2:Cut and tap threads intothe holes
you just drilled using a 6-32 tap and tap wrench. If
you usethis method, you will have to supply your
own6-32x 1"socketheadcapscrewsfor
attaching the engine to the mount.
MOUNT ENGINE AND
INSTALL SERVOS
D1.Screw the mount onto the firewall usingthe
6-32 x 1"cap screws, but leave the screws loose
fornow. Place theengineon themount and
squeeze the mount halves together until they are
within 1/32"of the engine crankcase. Make sure
the mount iscenteredon the embossed center
linesandtightentheenginemountscrews.
Position the engine on the mount so the distance
from the frontof the firewallto the faceof the thrust
washer is4-5/16". Mark the engine mounting hole
locations on the mount. Remove the engine and
accurately drill 7/16"(or #36) holes. NOTE: Ifyou
have access to a drill press, use itfordrilling these
holesto ensure that they are drilledvertically.
D3.Installtherudder,elevatorand throttle
servos using the screws that came withthe servos.
Cut all but one arm off of the throttleand elevator
servo horns andusea longtwo arm hornfor the
rudder servo.
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D4. Determinewherethethrottlepushrod
should exit the firewalland drill a 3/16" hole there.
Route the throttlepushrod outer tube fromthe
firewalltoformerF5. We used a Great Planes
Semi-FlexiblePushrod(GPMQ3714).Cut the
outer tube to the correct length and remove itfrom
the plane. Scuff upthe outside of thetube with
medium gritsandpaper,replacethe tube andglue
itinplace.
D6.Assemblethenylonsteeringarm
(NYLON16)by insertinga 5/32"wheelcollar
(WHCL005) inside the steering arm and securing it
witha 6-32x 1/4"socketheadcapscrew
(SCRW007).Slidethe5/32" wirenose gear
(WBNT006)intothebearing,and throughthe
steering arm. Install a nylon clevis onto the plastic
inner pushrod using the 1"threaded rod that came
with the pushrod. Insert the inner pushrod into the
outer tube and snap the clevis onto the steering
arm. Slide thesiliconeretainerovertheclevis.
Cut a scrap piece of balsa to support the end of
the steering outer tube and glue itinplace on the
fusebottom. Glue the steeringouter tube to the
balsa piece but make sure thesteering arm can
operate throughout its range without binding.
D5.Installthe nose gear steeringpushrod
outer tube using the same technique outlined in
the laststep. Notice that the outer tube extends to
within1-7/8" of formerF2. We used a Great
Planes Semi-FlexiblePushrod (GPMQ3714). If
youareusing a differenttypeof pushrod,just
adapt the instructions to fityour style of pushrod.
D7.InstallthreeQuick-Connectors(Not
Included)on the rudderservo horn asshown inthe
photo.
D8.Installthe horn on the rudder servo and
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