GREAT PLANES Super Sportster EP User manual

Champaign, Illinois
[phone], Ext 5
airsuppor[email protected]
Entire Contents © Copyright 2009 GPMA1161 Mnl
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
WARRANTY
Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great
Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this
warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the
place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone
number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon
receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly
as possible.
Radio: 4-channel minimum with
3 micro mini servos
Motor: RimFire .25 (42–40–1000kV)
outrunner brushless
ESC: 45A brushless
Battery: 3-cell 3200 – 3700mAh LiPo
and compatible charger
Wingspan: 48 in
[1220mm]
Wing Area: 383 sq in
[24.7 dm2]
Weight: 2.75– 3.0 lb
[1250 – 1360 g]
Wing
Loading:
17– 18 oz/sq ft
[52– 55 g/dm2]
SPECIFICATIONS
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
TM

2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Radio Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Motor Recommendation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Propeller. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Electronic Speed Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Charger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Adhesive and Building Supplies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Optional Supplies and Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
KIT INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
KIT CONTENTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
PREPARATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
ASSEMBLE THE WING PANELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
INSTALL THE TAIL SECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
INSTALL THE TAIL SERVOS AND PUSHRODS. . . . . . .12
INSTALL THE POWER SYSTEM AND RECEIVER . . . .14
FINISH THE MODEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
APPLY THE DECALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Check the Control Directions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Set the Control Throws. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Balance the Model (C.G.). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Balance the Model Laterally. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
PREFLIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Identify Your Model. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Charge the Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Balance Propellers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Range Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
AMA SAFETY CODE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
FLYING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
INTRODUCTION
The Great Planes Super Sportster kits have been a favorite
among pilots since 1982. For many pilots the Super Sportster
was their first low wing plane. Now, Great Planes brings
you the Super Sportster tradition in an electric version.
Following the lines of the Super Sportster 20, the Super
Sportster EP BL ARF has been lightened to accommodate
electric power without sacrificing performance and has been
recently updated to accommodate a brushless motor and a
LiPo battery pack for improved performance and extended
flight time. If you’re ready to continue the Super Sportster
tradition without the fuss and mess of a glow engine, the
Super Sportster EP BL ARF is just what you need.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to
the Super Sportster EP BL ARF visit the Great Planes web
site at www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, and
then select the Super Sportster EP BL ARF. If there is new
technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice”
box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics)
and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model
aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not
limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It even applies
to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to
comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of
the manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. There are over
2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tele: [phone]
Fax [phone]
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.

3
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS… FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. The Super Sportster EP BL ARF should not be considered
a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its
performance capabilities, the Super Sportster EP BL ARF, if
not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered as
correct.
3. You must take time to build straight,true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized motor and components
throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, or if a motor larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: The cowl and wheel pants included in this kit
are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye,
skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part
(wheel pant, cowl) to remove fiberglass dust, as the dust
will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a
particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and
sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work
area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Super
Sportster EP BL ARF that may require planning or
decision making before starting to build. Order numbers
are provided in parentheses.
Radio Equipment
A 4-channel radio system with three micro mini servos and
a micro receiver are required for this plane. The servos and
receiver shown in the manual are ElectriFly ES80 micro
servos and the Futaba®R617FS receiver. Order numbers for
these items are provided below.
❏(3) ElectriFly ES80 Micro Servos (GPMM1220)
❏Futaba R617FS 7-Channel 2.4GHz FASST™Receiver
(FUTL7627)
Motor Recommendation
The recommended motor for the Super Sportster EP BL
ARF is the Great Planes RimFire .25 (42-40-1000) Brushless
Outrunner Motor (GPMG4675)
Propeller
The recommended propeller for the Super Sportster EP
BL ARF when using the Great Planes RimFire .25 (42-40-
1000kV) motor is the APC 11x8.5E Thin Electric Propeller
(APCQ4131)
Electronic Speed Control
A brushless electronic speed control is required for this
plane. We recommend using the Great Planes Silver Series
45A Brushless ESC 5V/2A BEC (GPMM1840).

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Battery
The Super Sportster EP BL ARF has been tested with
11.1V LiPo packs ranging from 3200mAh to 3700mAh. The
recommended battery pack is the Great Planes ElectriFly
LiPo 11.1V 3200mAh 20C Power Series (GPMP00727). The
Great Planes ElectriFly LiPo 11.1V 3350mAh 25C Power
Series (GPMP0541) may also be used.
Charger
Note: A cell balancer is required for the LiPo battery
pack listed above.
❏Great Planes ElectriFly™Equinox™LiPo 1 to 5 Cell
Balancer (GPMM3160)
A suitable charger is also required. The Great Planes
PolyCharge4™is designed for LiPo packs only, but is able
to charge four LiPo packs simultaneously. The Great Planes
Triton2™charger will only charge one pack at a time, but
is capable of charging NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, and lead acid
batteries. Order numbers for both are provided as follows:
❏Great Planes PolyCharge4 DC Only 4 Output LiPo
Charger (GPMM3015)
OR
❏Great Planes ElectriFly Triton2 DC Comp Peak
Charger (GPMM3153)
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish
the Super Sportster EP BL ARF. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.
Adhesives and Building Supplies
This is the list of adhesive and building supplies required to
finish the Super Sportster EP BL ARF. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro™CA (GPMR6001)
❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6043)
❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy cleanup)
❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 3/32" [2.4mm],
1/8" [3mm]
❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ Hobbico Steel T-Pins 1" (100) (HCAR5100)
❏ Great Planes Pro Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Felt-tip pen (TOPQ2510)
❏ 220 grit sandpaper
❏ Small clamps
❏ Oil or petroleum jelly
Optional Supplies and Tools
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Super Sportster EP BL ARF.
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ 21st Century®sealing iron (COVR2700)
❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
❏ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR6034)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Hobbico®Flexible 18" Ruler Stainless Steel
(HCAR0460)
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it means
that you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fit
the part as necessary for the best fit.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
• Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
• The Super Sportster EP is factory-covered with Top Flite®
MonoKote®film. Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote
can be patched with additional MonoKote purchased
separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls, but
some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small
piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a
fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied

5
with a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a
regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full
instructions for application. Following are the colors used on
this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.
Missile Red TOPQ0201
Jet White TOPQ0204
Black TOPQ0208
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Super Sportster EP BL ARF are
available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts
List that follows. The fastest, most economical service can
be provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site
at www.greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the
bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling [phone], or via facsimile at [phone],
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard®
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact
Product Support by telephone at [phone], or by
e-mail at [email protected].
Replacement Parts List
Order # Description
GPMA3290 Fuselage
GPMA3291 Wing
GPMA3292 Tail Set
GPMA3293 Canopy
GPMA3294 Cowl
GPMA3295 Landing Gear
GPMA3296 Decal
GPMA3297 Wheel Pants
GPMQ4790 Spinner
NOTE: Full-size plans are not available.You can download a
copy of this manual at www.greatplanes.com.
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of
acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written
in the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: [phone], ext. 5
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
KIT CONTENTS

6
PREPARATIONS
❏ 1. If you have not done so already, remove the major parts
of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any parts
are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at the
address or telephone number listed in the “Kit Inspection”
section on page 5.
❏ 2. Carefully remove the tape and separate all the
control surfaces. Use a covering iron with a covering sock
on medium/high heat to tighten the covering if necessary.
Apply pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the
covering to the wood.
ASSEMBLE THE WING PANELS
❏ 1. Use epoxy to join the two plywood wing joiner pieces
together. Use a paper towel with denatured alcohol to clean
off any excess epoxy. Small spring clamps can be used to
hold the pieces together while the epoxy cures.
❏ 2. Test fit the wing joiner without glue half way into each
wing panel with the “V” shape of the joiner pointing toward
the bottom of the wings. The fit should be just slightly loose
to allow space for epoxy when the panels are joined. When
satisfied with the fit of the joiner into each panel, slide the
wing panels together and confirm there are no gaps between
the root ribs of the panels. Use a sanding bar to sand the root
ribs flat if necessary.
❏ 3. Mix up approximately 1/4 oz [7.5cc] of 30-minute
epoxy. Use a mixing stick or something similar to coat the

7
insides of the joiner pockets in each wing panel with epoxy.
Coat one half of the wing joiner and slide it into one of the
panels. Coat the root ribs of both panels and the other end
of the joiner. Join the panels together. Wipe away excess
epoxy with denatured alcohol. Masking tape can be used
to hold the panels together while the epoxy cures. We also
recommend using small clamps to align the trailing edge and
to squeeze the LE tabs together as shown. Allow the epoxy
to cure undisturbed.
❏ 4. Center the plywood aileron servo tray over the opening
on top of the wing. Trace around the inner and outer edges of
the tray onto the wing using a felt-tip pen. Use a sharp hobby
knife to cut the balsa and covering from the inner lines you
drew, and just the covering from where the tray will be glued.
Take care to cut just through the covering and not into the
wood along the outer lines you drew. Wipe away the lines
with denatured alcohol and glue the tray in place.
❏ 5. Fit the aileron servo into the tray with the servo spline
towards the LE of the wing. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through
the mounting tabs on the servo into the tray. Thread a servo
mounting screw (included with the servo) into each hole and
then back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA to each hole to
harden the surrounding wood. Install the servo using the
hardware included with the servo.
❏ 6. Use your radio system to center the servo. Cut two
arms from a four-arm servo arm. Use a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit
to enlarge the holes on each remaining arm that are closest
to 7/16" [11mm] from the center of the servo spline. Install
the servo arm perpendicular to the servo case being sure to
reinstall the servo arm screw.
❏ 7.Thread a nylon torque rod horn onto each aileron torque
rod as shown.

8
❏ 8.Thread a nylon clevis 20 complete turns onto each aileron
pushrod. Slide a silicone clevis retainer over each clevis.
❏ 9. Connect the clevises to the torque rod horns. Center
each aileron and use tape or small clamps to hold them in the
neutral position.With the aileron servo arm still perpendicular
to the servo case, mark the pushrods where they cross the
holes you enlarged in the servo arm.
❏ 10. Make a 90° bend at the marks on the pushrods and
cut off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm] beyond the bend.
Attach the pushrods to the servo arm using 90 degree
pushrod connectors. Thread the clevises up or down on
the pushrods as necessary to center the ailerons with the
servo arm centered. When satisfied, slide the silicone clevis
retainers to the ends of the clevises to secure them.
INSTALL THE TAIL SECTION
❏ 1. Temporarily mount the wing to the fuselage using two
3x30mm machine screws and two 3mm flat washers.
❏ 2. Cut the tail support block from the aft end of the
horizontal stabilizer slot in the fuse.

9
❏ 3. Insert the horizontal stabilizer into the stab slot and
center it left and right. Stand several feet back from the model
and view it from behind. Confirm that the stab and wing are
parallel. If not, sand the slot as necessary until they are. A
weight can also be added to the high side when gluing the
stab in place to bring them parallel. Measure from the outer
edge of each aileron to the stab tips and adjust the stab
until those measurements are equal. When satisfied with the
position of the stab, use a felt-tip pen to trace around the
fuse onto the stab.
❏ 4. Trim the covering from the stab just inside the lines you
drew. Use a sharp hobby knife, taking care not to cut into the
wood beneath, or use the following “Expert Tip.” Wipe away
the lines with denatured alcohol.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the stab. The
tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine
tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully.
Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that
will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood. The
hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a
fine cut. Peel off the covering.
❏ 5. Glue the stab into place with epoxy.
❏ 6. The wing can now be removed from the fuselage for
the remainder of the building process.
❏ 6. As you did with the stab, trace around the fuse onto
the vertical fin and remove the covering inside the lines you
drew. Use epoxy to glue the fin in place. Check that the fin
is perpendicular to the stab. If not, use tape to hold the fin
square while the epoxy cures.
❏ 7. Test fit a CA hinge halfway into each hinge slot in
the stab and elevators. If the hinges are difficult to insert
or the covering needs to be cut open over the slots, use
a sharp hobby knife to slightly enlarge the slot or slit open
the covering.

10
❏ 8. Push a small T-pin through the center of each CA hinge.
The pins will keep the hinges centered during assembly.
Insert the hinges into the hinge slots in the stab. Fit the
elevators onto the other ends of the hinges and align the
outside tips of the elevators with the stab tips.
❏ 9. Remove the pins from the hinges and push the
elevators against the trailing edge of the stab. Deflect the
elevators down to their maximum throw (beveled leading
edge of elevators is against the trailing edge of the stab) and
apply 7-8 drops of thin CA glue to each hinge. Flip the plane
over and apply the same amount of CA to the other side
of each hinge. Allow the CA a minute or two to harden and
then tug on the elevators to confirm they are well secured to
the stab.
❏ 10. Without glue, insert the aft end of the tail gear wire
into the hole in the LE of the rudder. Coat the nylon tail gear
tab with epoxy (take care not to get epoxy on the wire) and
insert the tab into the slot at the aft end of the fuse. Align the
rudder with the fin. When satisfied with the position of the
rudder, carefully remove it from the tail gear wire. Leaving
the nylon tab in place in the fuse, wipe away any excess
epoxy with alcohol and allow the epoxy to cure undisturbed.

11
❏ 11. As you did with the elevators, install the rudder to the
fuse with two CA hinges. Coat the end of the tail gear wire
with epoxy before inserting it into the hole in the rudder.
INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR
❏ 1. Fit the landing gear wires into the slot and holes on the
underside of the fuse. Position two landing gear straps over
the wires in the positions shown and mark the location of the
screw holes. Drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at your marks. Install the
straps over the wires using four 3x10mm self-tapping screws.
Be sure to harden the screw holes with thin CA.
❏ 2. Drill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole at the bottom of the groove on
each wheel pant.
❏ 3. Use sandpaper to roughen the inside of the wheel
pants in the area around the groove. Clean the area with
denatured alcohol. Trial fit the plywood wheel pant mounting
plates inside the wheel pants. The top edge of the mounting
plate may need to be rounded to match the curve of the
wheel pant. Once satisfied with the fit, use epoxy to glue the
mounting plates in the wheel pants.
❏ 4. Once the epoxy has cured, slide the wheel pants onto
the main landing gear. Position a nylon landing gear strap
over each main landing gear and drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes
through the strap and the plywood mounting plate. Attach
the landing gear straps to the wheel pants with four 2.5x8mm
self-tapping screws. Harden the holes with thin CA.

12
❏ 5. Remove one of the screws from each landing gear
strap and slide a round plywood wheel pant retainer onto
the landing gear wires. Re-attach the landing gear straps.
Align the axle of the landing gear so that it is perpendicular
to the centerline of the wheel pant. Apply a thin coat of oil or
petroleum jelly on the axle to prevent the epoxy from adhering
to the wire. Roughen the inside of the wheel pants and glue
the wheel pant retainers to the wheel pants with epoxy.
❏ 6. Install a 3x4mm machine screw with threadlocking
compound in two 3mm wheel collars. Remove one of the
screws from the landing gear strap and install on the landing
gear a wheel collar, wheel and a second wheel collar. Insert
the landing gear in the wheel pant retainer and reinstall the
landing gear strap. Tighten the 3x4mm machine screws
in the two wheel collars. Make sure that the wheel rotates
freely. Repeat this step for the other side.
❏ 7. Install the tail wheel onto the tail wheel wire. Secure it
in place using a 2mm wheel collar and a 3x4mm set screw.
Be sure that the tail wheel rotates freely. Oiling the tail wheel
axle is recommended.
INSTALL THE TAIL SERVOS
AND PUSHRODS
❏ 1. Insert the two 2x505mm wire pushrods into the outer
pushrod tubes inside the fuselage. Notice at the aft end of
the fuselage where the pushrods press against the covering.
Using a sharp hobby knife, cut a small slot in the covering to
allow the pushrods to exit the fuselage.

13
Hinge Line Hinge Line
CORRECT INCORRECT
Hi
❏ 2. Thread a nylon clevis onto the elevator pushrod (exits
out of the right side of the fuse) 20 complete turns and slide
a silicone clevis retainer onto the clevis. Connect the clevis
to the outer hole of a control horn and use the position of the
pushrod exiting the fuse to mark the location of control horn
mounting holes.
❏ 3. Drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at the marks you made through
the elevator. Install the control horn with a control horn
backplate using two 2x10mm machine screws. Slide the
silicone clevis retainer to the end of the clevis.
❏ 4. Install the rudder pushrod and control horn in the
same manner.
❏ 5. Use your radio system to center the elevator and rudder
servos. Cut three arms from a four-arm servo arm for each
servo. Choose the servo arm hole of the remaining arms
closest to 11/32" [8.7mm] from the center of the servo to
install a screw-lock pushrod connector with a nylon retainer
into each servo arm. Loosely install a 3x5mm socket head
cap screw into each screw-lock connector. Using the photo
as a guide, install the elevator and rudder servos onto the
servo tray using the hardware that came with the servos
(be sure to harden the screw holes with thin CA). Slide
the pushrods through the screw-lock pushrod connectors,
center the control surfaces, and tighten the screws against
the pushrods. If necessary, the excess pushrod can be cut
off 1/4" [6mm] beyond the pushrod connectors.

14
.
INSTALL THE POWER SYSTEM
AND RECEIVER
❏ 1. If you haven’t done so already, attach the prop adapter
to the motor using the screws included with the motor and
threadlocking compound. Install the motor onto the motor
mounting box using four 3x10mm machine screws, four 3mm
flat washers, and threadlocking compound.
❏ 2. Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the center of the battery
tray, side of the battery tray, and in the location of the receiver
in front of the servo tray. The epoxy will improve the adhesion
of the self-adhesive hook and loop material. Allow the epoxy
to cure undisturbed.
❏ 3. Cut a piece of the hook side from the included self-
adhesive hook and loop material. Apply the piece to the
center of the battery tray.
❏ 4. Make a strap to fit your LiPo battery from the included
non-adhesive hook and loop material by overlapping the
mating ends of the material by 1" [25mm]. Feed the strap
through the slots in the battery tray as shown.

15
❏ 5. Cut a piece from the included double-sided foam
mounting tape and attach the ESC to the side of the battery
compartment. Connect the ESC to the motor. Now would be
a good time to use your radio system and battery to confirm
that the motor rotates in the correct direction. If the motor
does not rotate counter-clockwise when viewing it from the
front, simply disconnect any two of the three motor leads and
swap their positions.
❏ 6. Cut a piece from the remainder of the self-adhesive
hook and loop material and use it to secure the receiver
in the location shown. Connect the elevator servo, rudder
servo, and ESC to the receiver.
❏ 7. We used small scraps of fuel tubing we had laying
around the shop and glued them to the sides of the fuselage
to support the antennas of the 2.4GHz receiver shown in the
picture. If you are using an FM or PCM receiver, an antenna
tube is provided between the two outer pushrod tubes.
FINISH THE MODEL
❏ 1. Place the cowl onto the fuselage and position it so
that it is 3/32" [2.4mm] behind the face of the prop adapter.
Temporarily installing the spinner backplate onto the prop
adapter will make this easier to measure. You may need to
ream or drill the backplate larger to fit the shaft.When satisfied
with the placement of the cowl, tape it to the fuselage.

16
❏ 2. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the cowl and into
the cowl mounting tabs. Remove the cowl and enlarge the
holes in the cowl to 3/32" [2.4mm]. Thread a 2.5x8mm self-
tapping screw into each hole in the fuse and back it out. Apply
a drop of thin CA to each hole to harden the surrounding
wood. When the CA has hardened, install the cowl onto the
fuse with four 2.5x8mm self-tapping screws and four 2.5mm
flat washers.
❏ 3. If you plan to install the instrument panel decal and
optional pilot figure (not included), do so now.Trim the canopy
along the molded-in cut lines. The canopy can be glued on
using canopy glue or taped in place.
❏ 4. Install the spinner backplate, propeller, prop washer,
prop nut, and spinner. Be sure to balance your prop first!
❏ 5. Trim the covering from the six battery cooling holes on
the underside of the fuse just behind the wing.
❏ 6. Cut a piece of the loop side from the included self-
adhesive hook and loop material and stick it to your battery
pack. Test fit the battery into the battery compartment and
use the strap you made to secure it in place. You will need
the battery installed when balancing the airplane.

17
❏ 7. This completes the assembly of the Super Sportster
EP BL!
APPLY THE DECALS
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap and water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3.Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the decal
down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water away.
4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Check the Control Directions
❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all
the control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary,
adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center the control
surfaces.
FULL
THROTTLE
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
RIGHT AILERON
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the throttle
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use
the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
Set the Control Throws
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow™(or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface as
indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not have
dual rates, we recommend setting the throws for your first
few flights at the low rate setting.

18
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons. If you are using a ruler to
set your control surface throws, the deflection distance is
measured as the height from the center TE of the control
surface when moved from the neutral position as shown
in the sketch. Deflection in degrees is also provided for an
alternative measuring method.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
ELEVATOR
HIGH RATE LOW RATE
1/2"
[13mm]
12°
Up
1/2"
[13mm]
12°
Down
3/8"
[10mm]
9°
Up
3/8"
[10mm]
9°
Down
RUDDER 1"
[25mm]
18°
Right
1"
[25mm]
18°
Left
3/4"
[19mm]
13°
Right
3/4"
[19mm]
13°
Left
AILERONS 3/8"
[10mm]
25°
Up
3/8"
[10mm]
25°
Down
1/4"
[6mm]
16°
Up
1/4"
[6mm]
16°
Down
IMPORTANT: The Super Sportster EP BL ARF has been
extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws at
which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will
provide you with the greatest chance for successful first
flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the way
the Sportster flies, you would like to change the throws to
suit your taste, that is fine. However, too much control throw
could make the model difficult to control, so remember,
“more is not always better.”
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be successful.
If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights,
DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE.
A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and
possibly unflyable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the motor, landing
gear, battery pack, and the radio system.
❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately
mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The C.G. is located 2-3/4" [70mm] back from the
leading edge of the wing at the fuselage.
This is where your model should balance for the first flights.
Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the C.G. up to
1/4" [6mm] forward or 1/4" [6mm] back to change the flying
characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward may improve the
smoothness and stability, but the model may then require
more speed for takeoff and make it more difficult to slow
for landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more
maneuverable, but could also cause it to become too
difficult to control. In any case, start at the recommended
balance point and do not at any time balance the model
outside the specified range.
❏ 2. With all parts of the model installed (ready to fly) and
the battery pack installed, place the model on a Great Planes
CG Machine™, or lift it at the balance point you marked.
❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward to balance. If the
nose drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft to balance. If possible,
move the battery pack and receiver to minimize or eliminate
any additional ballast required.
❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to move the
battery pack or receiver for the Sportster to balance, recheck
the C.G. after this has been done.

19
Balance the Model Laterally
❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding
weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally
balanced will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
PREFLIGHT
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
identification tag on page 23 (or on the decal sheet) and
place it on or inside your model.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter battery the night before you
go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio
manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter batteries should be done for 15 hours using
the slow-charger that came with the radio system.
This will "condition" the batteries so that the next charge
may be done using the fast-charger of your choice. If the
initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries may
not reach their full capacity and you may be flying with
batteries that are only partially charged.
Balance Propellers
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most significant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to
foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite®Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
Range Check
Ground check the operational range of your radio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk
at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control
(consult your radio manual if using a 2.4GHz system). Have
an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the
controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Repeat
this test with the motor running at various speeds with an
assistant holding the model, using hand signals to show you
what is happening. If the control surfaces do not respond
correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look
for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires
on old servo connectors, or a damaged receiver crystal from
a previous crash.

20
MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate electric motors.
• Use safety glasses when running electric motors.
• Do not operate the motor in an area of loose gravel or
sand; the propeller may throw such material in your face
or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you operate
the motor.
• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing,
shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such
as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or
jacket pockets into the prop.
• The motor gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation.
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING AND USAGE
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included with
your battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings,
and cause bodily harm!
• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger. NEVER use a NiCd/
NiMH peak charger!
• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery
volts.
• ALWAYS charge in a fireproof location.
• NEVER trickle charge.
• NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed 150° F
(65° C).
• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any way or
puncture cells.
• NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.
• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows,
or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be
airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance
with the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the
complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.