GREAT PLANES Extra 330S ARF User manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Wingspan: 79.5 in [2025mm]
Wing Area: 1209 in2[77.9dm2]
Weight: 13.5 – 15.5 lbs [6125 – 7030g]
Wing Loading: 26 – 29 oz/ft2[79 – 90g/dm2]
Length: 78 in [1980mm]
Radio: 4 to 5-channel, six to seven servos
Engine: 1.50 – 1.80 cu in [25 – 29cc] two-stroke,
1.80 – 2.10 cu in [29 – 34cc] four-stroke,
1.90 – 2.60 cu in [31 – 43cc] gas
Electric Motor: 2.5 in [63mm] dia., 2772W, 100A ESC
WARRANTY
GreatPlanes®ModelManufacturingCo.guaranteesthiskittobefreefromdefectsinbothmaterialandworkmanshipatthedateofpurchase.
This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using the user-assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax
number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package
the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.
Champaign, Illinois
[phone], Ext 5
[e-mail]
Entire Contents © Copyright 2007 GPMZ1413 for GPMA1413 V1.0

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION......................................................................... 2
AMA ............................................................................................ 2
IMAA ........................................................................................... 3
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ........................................................... 3
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING & USAGE ............................... 3
DECISIONSYOU MUST MAKE.................................................. 4
Engine/Motor Recommendations.......................................... 4
Gas Engine Accessories ....................................................... 4
Glow Engine Accessories...................................................... 4
Electric Motor Accessories.................................................... 5
Batteries for Electric Motor Power......................................... 5
Battery Charger..................................................................... 5
Radio Installation................................................................... 5
Radio Equipment................................................................... 6
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED ............................................. 6
Required Hardware & Accessories........................................ 6
Adhesives & Building Supplies.............................................. 6
Covering Tools....................................................................... 6
Optional Supplies & Tools...................................................... 7
Pilot Figure ............................................................................ 7
BUILDING NOTES...................................................................... 7
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS........................................ 7
KIT INSPECTION........................................................................ 8
KIT CONTENTS.......................................................................... 8
SHRINKTHE COVERING........................................................... 9
ASSEMBLETHEWINGS............................................................ 9
Hinge the Ailerons................................................................. 9
Hook Up the Ailerons........................................................... 10
ASSEMBLETHE FUSELAGE .................................................. 11
Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer............................................ 11
Hinge the Elevators & Rudder............................................. 14
Hook Up the External Rudder Servos................................. 14
Hook Up the Elevators......................................................... 15
Mount the Pull/Pull Rudder Servos...................................... 15
Hook Up the Pull/Pull Rudder Cables.................................. 16
Mount the Tail Gear ............................................................. 18
Mount the Engine or Electric Motor..................................... 18
ASSEMBLETHE FUELTANK.................................................. 19
Glow Engines ...................................................................... 19
Gas Engines........................................................................ 19
Mount the Fuel Tank............................................................ 20
Hook Up the Throttle............................................................ 22
Glow Engine Throttle Hookup.............................................. 23
Gas Engine Throttle Hookup ............................................... 24
Mount the Ignition Module, Ignition Battery &
Ignition On/Off Switch (gas engines only)............................ 24
Mount the Electric Motor...................................................... 26
Mount the Motor Battery...................................................... 26
FINAL ASSEMBLY ................................................................... 28
Mount the Cowl.................................................................... 28
Mount the Pilot..................................................................... 31
Mount the Canopy Hatch..................................................... 32
Mount the Landing Gear...................................................... 32
Apply the Decals.................................................................. 33
GETTHE MODEL READYTO FLY........................................... 33
Install & Connect the Motor Battery..................................... 33
Battery Precautions/Connecting Batteries........................... 33
Check the Control Directions............................................... 34
Set the Control Throws........................................................ 34
Balance the Model (C.G.).................................................... 35
Balance the Model Laterally................................................ 36
PREFLIGHT.............................................................................. 36
IdentifyYour Model .............................................................. 36
Charge the Batteries............................................................ 36
Balance the Propellers ........................................................ 36
Ground Check ..................................................................... 36
Range Check....................................................................... 36
ELECTRIC MOTOR & ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS............ 37
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts).............................................. 37
CHECK LIST............................................................................. 38
FLYING...................................................................................... 38
Mount the Wing ................................................................... 38
Fuel Mixture Adjustments (for gas & glow engines).................. 38
Takeoff................................................................................. 39
Flight.................................................................................... 39
Landing................................................................................ 39
3D FLYING................................................................................ 40
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Extra 330S
1.60 ARF. With the ever-increasing demands of today’s R/C
modeler, Great Planes has adapted and responded with this
high-performance scale aerobat. Designed and built with
simplicity and light weight in mind, the Extra 330S 1.60 ARF
will accommodate any type of power plant you desire–glow,
spark-ignition (gas) or electric–and detailed instructions for
each installation and setup are included.There are also two
different radio trays for mounting your receiver, throttle servo
(if used) and battery in a forward or aft location, thereby
minimizing any additional lead ballast required to achieve
the correct C.G.–another weight-saving measure to help
insure you get the most out of your Extra.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to this
model visit the Great Planes web site at www.greatplanes.
com. Open the “R/C AIRPLANES” pull down tab across the
top of the page, then select “ARFs-GLOW.” Scroll down the
page and click on “Extra 330S 1.60 ARF.” If there is new
technical information or changes an “Important! TECH
NOTICE” box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
Click on theTech Notice box to read the info.
AMA
WeurgeyoutojointheAMA(AcademyofModelAeronautics)
andalocalR/C club.TheAMAis thegoverningbodyofmodel
aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection.Coverage is not
limited to flying at contests or on the club field.It even applies
to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to
comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of
the manual) may endanger insurance coverage.Additionally,
training programs and instructors are available at AMA club
sites to help you get started the right way. There are over
2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number that follows.

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Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. [phone]
Fax [phone]
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.
IMAA
The Great Planes Extra 330S 1.60 ARF qualifies as a
“giant-scale” model and is therefore eligible to fly in IMAA
(International Miniature Aircraft Association) events. The
IMAA is an organization that promotes non-competitive flying
of giant-scale model aircraft.If you plan on attending an IMAA
event refer to the IMAA Safety Code at www.fly-imaa.org
under the“Sanctions”heading in their site index.IMAA contact
information is also available in Model Aviation, the monthly
newsletter magazine from the AMA. The IMAA can also be
contacted at the address or telephone number below.
IMAA
205 S.Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401
[phone]
PROTECTYOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS....FOLLOWTHESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Great Planes Extra 330S 1.60 ARF should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model
that functions very much like a full-size airplane.Because of
its performance capabilities, the Great Planes Extra 330S
1.60 ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could
possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage
to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the
instructionsmaydifferslightlyfromthephotos.Inthoseinstances
the written instructions should be considered as correct.
3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
asracing,or ifan enginelargerthanoneintherecommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: The cowl, wheel pants and landing gear
included in this kit are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which
may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never
blow into a part (wheel pant, cowl) to remove fiberglass dust,
as the dust will blow back into your eyes.Always wear safety
goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding,
drilling and sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and
the work area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING & USAGE
WARNING!! Read the entire instructions sheet included
with this battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings and
cause bodily harm!
• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger. NEVER use a NiCd/
NiMH peak charger!
• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.

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• ALWAYS set the charger’s output volts to match the
battery volts.
• ALWAYS charge in a fireproof location.
• NEVER trickle charge.
• NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed
150° F [65° C].
• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any way or
puncture cells.
• NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.
• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
DECISIONSYOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Extra 330S
1.60 ARF that may require planning or decision making
before beginning assembly. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.
Engine/Motor Recommendations
The recommended engine size range for the Great Planes
Extra 330S 1.60 ARF is noted on the cover of this manual.
Your decision basically comes down to personal preferences
and how you weigh the advantages and disadvantages of
each option: Glow engine installation usually tends to be the
most straight-forward.Glow engines also usually provide the
best power-to-weight ratio. But glow engines can also be
messy(withtheoilyexhaustresidue deposited on the bottom
of the plane) and more expensive in the long run because of
the cost of glow fuel. Gas engines are usually significantly
heavier than glow engines, but they also tend to run cleaner.
Gasoline is also less expensive than glow fuel. Aside from
the task of charging and removing/installing battery packs
between flights, electric power can be a convenient option
with the simple “flick of a switch” which is all that is required
to turn on the motor, taxi out and go fly! And of course, with
electric power, there’s never any clean up!
Gas Engine Accessories
These are the items shown in the manual that were used when
installingtheFuji-Imvac™BT-43EI-2engine(FJIG0144).Ifusinga
different gas engine the same or similar items may be required.
❏Propeller bolt that is threaded down the center for the
spinner bolt (FJIG8050)
❏4.8V ignition battery pack with a minimum capacity of 500mAh
❏On/off ignition switch (such as a heavy-duty radio switch–
FUTM4385, HCAM2761 or similar)
❏(4) 10-32 or 10-24 x 1” [25mm] socket-head cap screw
engine mounting bolts
❏(4) #4 lock washers
❏(4) 10-32 or 10-24 blind nuts
❏1/4" [6.4mm] drill
❏1/8" [3mm] foam wing tape (GPMQ4424)
❏Propeller reamer (GPMQ5007)
❏Size “X” or 13/32" [10mm] drill for drilling out the
Fuji-Imvac aluminum propeller washer
If installing a gas engine the fuel tank will also have to be
converted to work with gasoline. The included stopper and
fuel line must be replaced with a gas-compatible stopper
and lines and measures must be taken to secure the fuel
lines inside the tank.To do the conversion the following items
must be purchased separately:
❏(1) Sullivan #484 Gasoline/Diesel fuel tank conversion
kit (SULQ2684)
❏(2) Packages Du-Bro #813 1/8" [3.2mm] I.D. fuel line
barbs (DUBQ0670)
❏At least six small, nylon ties (available from home
improvement, automotive or hardware stores)
❏Great Planes gasoline fuel tubing (3', GPMQ4135)
–or–
❏No. 799 3/32" I.D.Tygon Tubing (3', DUBQ0486)
If the Sullivan conversion kit is not available, a Du-Bro #400
gas conversion stopper (DUBQ0675) and one 12" [305mm]
piece of K+S 1/8" [3.2mm] soft brass tubing (K+SR5128–box
of 5) could also be used. Full instructions on how to do the
conversion are in the manual.
Glow Engine Accessories
These are the items shown in the manual that were used
with the O.S.®1.60 FX engine (OSMG0661–ringed, without
muffler). If using a different glow engine the same or similar
items will also be required:
❏Bisson O.S. 1.60 FX Pitts style muffler (BISG4116)
❏3/16" [4.8mm] drill
❏Tap handle (GPMR8120)
❏#29 drill and 8-32 tap
–or–
❏Great Planes 8-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8103)
❏2' [610mm] Large silicone fuel tubing (for glow engines,
GPMQ4133, 2 pkgs)
Note: This kit comes with a spinner adapter bolt with a 3/8-24
thread that fits the O.S.1.60 FX engine.If using an engine with a
different crankshaft thread, a different spinner adapter bolt with
a thread that fits that fits your crankshaft that also has a 5mm or
10-32 spinner bolt thread will have to be purchased separately.

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Electric Motor Accessories
These are the items shown in the manual that were used
with the ElectriFly™63-62-250kV RimFire™electric motor
(GPMG4795).
❏Great Planes Extra Large Brushless Motor
Mount (GPMG1265)
❏O.S. 1.60 FX locknut set (OSMG6688)
❏100 Amp ESC for brushless motors
❏(4) 3 x 10mm motor mounting screws (DUBQ3227)
❏(8) 3mm flat washers (DUBQ3307)
❏Great Planes Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
Batteries for Electric Motor Power
There may be many different battery combinations available
that will work well with the recommended brushless RimFire
motor for this model. However, following are two setups
recommended in this manual:
For aerobatics and sport flying the following battery, battery
adapter connectors and propeller are recommended:
❏(3) ElectriFly 3200mAh 11.1V LiPo battery packs
(GPMP0623).Thebatterieswillbeconnectedinseries.This
isreferredtoasa“9S”configurationbecauseitiscomprised
of three 11.1V LiPo battery packs each consisting of three
individual 3.7V LiPo cells connected in series.
❏(2) Great Planes ElectriFly Series Deans U 2 to 1
battery adapters (GPMM3143)
❏Suitable propeller such as 20" x 10" E
(electric) (APCQ4028)
❏Velcro®hook & loop adhesive strips (1" x 6" [25 x 150mm],
GPMQ4480)
For all-out 3D aerobatics the following battery, battery
adapter connectors and propeller are recommended:
❏(4) ElectriFly 3200mAh 11.1V LiPo battery packs
(GPMP0623).This is a “12S” configuration.
❏(3) Great Planes ElectriFly Series Deans U
2-to-1 battery adapters (GPMM3143)
❏Suitable propeller such as 18" x 8" E
(electric) (APCQ4021)
❏Velcro®hook & loop adhesive strips (1" x 6" [25 x 150mm],
GPMQ4480)
IMPORTANT: Before experimenting with different battery
combinations and connecting multiple battery packs with
adapter plugs, refer to the “Battery Precautions/Connecting
Batteries” on page 33.
Battery Charger
If using LiPo batteries, a charger specially suited for charging
LiPo batteries is required. The Great Planes PolyCharge4™
(GPMM3015) is recommended.The PolyCharge4 will charge up
to four LiPo batteries simultaneously.If using the PolyCharge4, a
12Voltsourcewillalsoberequiredforpoweringthecharger.Ifyou
planonchargingfour3200mAhbatteriessimultaneously,apower
source capable of delivering at least 12.8A is required.A suitable
12V auto battery could be used, or a portable source capable of
converting 120V AC to 12V DC such as the Rivergate 15A DC
Bulldog Power Supply (RHCP2015) is suitable. If charging only
three 3200mAh batteries simultaneously, the Hobbico®12 Volt
Power Supply (HCAP0250) is also suitable.
ElectriFly LiPo batteries should not be charged through the
discharge connector (that is the plug that connects to the
ESC).LiPo batteries should be charged through the balance
connector via a LiPo cell balancer such as a Great Planes
ElectriFly Equinox™(GPMM3150). One Equinox for each
battery to be charged simultaneously will be required.
Radio Installation
As mentioned in the introduction, there is a forward and an
aft radio tray for mounting the receiver, receiver battery and
throttle servo in either of two locations. There are also two
different options for mounting the rudder servos–either a
pull/pull cable setup where the servos are mounted inside
the fuselage, or a standard pushrod setup with the servos
mounted outside the fuselage under the horizontal stabilizer.
Whichever combination you choose depends partially on
your preference, but should also depend on what type of
power plant you will be using–gas, glow or electric.With gas
engines (often heavier than glow engines) it is best to locate
as much weight as possible as far aft as possible.Therefore,
if using a gas engine it is advisable to mount the rudder
servos externally in the aft location and it is virtually required
that you use the aft radio tray. Even with this configuration
your model may still end up slightly nose-heavy and require
a few ounces of lead weight in the tail. Should you insist on
using the pull/pull rudder setup with a gas engine you can
expect to add approximately 10 oz. [280g] of lead to the tail.
With lighter glow engines such as the O.S.1.60 FX, however,
the weight distribution won’t be as lopsided, so you will have
more latitude when deciding which rudder servo and radio
tray configuration to use.You could mount the rudder servos
however preferred, then wait to decide where to mount the
radio tray after the model has been mostly completed and
you are checking the balance point.
When it comes to electric power, in most instances–
depending on how many and what kind of batteries you are
using–the model will be the heaviest. And, same as using a
gas engine, you’ll probably want to use the aft radio tray and
mount the rudder servos externally in the aft location under
the horizontal stabilizer.

66
Radio Equipment
Six servos with a minimum torque of 98 oz-in are required–
one for each aileron, one for each elevator and two for the
rudder.Astandardservomaybeusedonthethrottle.Futaba®
S3305 servos (FUTM0045) are shown on the model in this
manual because they are a suitable, relatively economical
solution to the high-torque requirements, but there are also
higher-precision servos available if this is your preference.
The elevator servos in the Great Planes Extra 330S 1.60
ARFmove inopposition,soifthe radioyouwill beusingisnot
capable of electronically mixing the elevator servos (so that
they may be connected to different channels in the receiver
and one of them reversed), an on-board servo reverser such
as the Futaba SR-10 Dual Servo Reverser (FUTM4150) will
be required.
Areceiverbatterypackwith a minimumcapacityof1500mAh
must also be used. The HydriMax™Ultra 4.8V 2000mAh
battery pack (HCAM6321) is suitable.
Following are the servo extension wires, Y-harnesses and
other radio gear illustrated in this manual:
❏(2) 24" [610mm] servo extensions for the ailerons
(HCAM2721 for Futaba, HCAM2720 for JR/Hitec)
❏(2) additional 24" [610mm] servo extensions for the
elevators if mounting the receiver in the aft radio tray
–or–
❏(2) 36" [914mm] servo extensions for the elevators if
mountingthereceiverintheforwardradiotray(HCAM2726
for Futaba, HCAM2725 for JR/Hitec)
❏(2) more 24" [610mm] servo extensions for the rudder
servos if mounting them in the aft location under
the horizontal stabilizer and using the aft radio tray
(HCAM2721 for Futaba, HCAM2720 for JR/Hitec)
–or–
❏(2) 36" [914mm] servo extensions for the rudder servos
if mounting them in the aft location under the horizontal
stabilizer and using the forward radio tray (HCAM2726 for
Futaba, HCAM2725 for JR/Hitec)
❏(2) Dual servo connectors such as Futaba Dual Servo
Extension Futaba J (FUTM4130) for rudder servos and
aileron servos
This model was also designed to accommodate two Ernst
Charge Receptacles (ERNM3001 for Futaba J, ERNM3004
for JR) for charging the batteries and monitoring the voltage
without having to remove the canopy hatch.If not using a gas
engine with an ignition battery, only one charge receptacle
will be required (for the receiver battery).
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
In addition to the items previously mentioned in the
“Decisions You Must Make” section, following is the list
of hardware and accessories required to finish this model.
Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
Required Hardware & Accessories
❏Suitable propeller and spare propellers
❏R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] – HCAQ1000, or
1/2" [13mm] – HCAQ1050)
❏(6) Large-scale servo arms (GPMM1105)
–or–
❏(2) DuBro servo arms super strength Futaba J long
(DUBM6670)
(Note: Only four servos arms will be required if mounting the
rudder servos inside the fuselage and using the pull-pull cables.)
Adhesives & Building Supplies
This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies that are
required to finish your Extra.
❏Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏1 oz. [30g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)
❏1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❏CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏Silver solder w/flux (STAR2000)
❏#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211, 100-pack, HCAR0311)
❏Drill bits:1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], and
if your servos have 3mm screws that hold on the servo
arms (such as the Futaba 3305s) you will also need a #32
(.116" [3mm]) drill
CoveringTools
A Top Flite®MonoKote®or 21st Century®model airplane
covering iron with a protective covering sock will be necessary
fortighteninganycoveringonthemodelthatmayhaveloosened
or formed wrinkles between the time of production and your
purchase.The 21st Century iron is preferred as it has a longer
cord and a rounded, contoured shoe.A trim iron is not as much
of a necessity, but would still be handy for sealing the edges
down inside servo openings and other small areas.
❏21st Century sealing iron (COVR2700)
❏21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
❏21st Century trim seal iron (COVR2750)
❏Top Flite MonoKote sealing iron (TOPR2100)
❏Top Flite Hot Sock™iron cover (TOPR2175)
❏Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)

Optional Supplies &Tools
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the Extra 330S 1.60 ARF.
❏Great Planes 4-in-1 Installation Tool (for wing
bolts GPMR8035)
❏Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
❏2 oz. [57g] Spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏4 oz. [113g] Aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)
❏CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏K & S #801 Kevlar®thread or similar non-elastic line (for
horizontal stabilizer alignment)
❏Rotary tool such as Dremel®
❏Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
❏Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)
❏Dead Center™Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
❏Hobby Heat™micro torch (HCAR0750)
The Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) is virtually required
for working on the fuselage during assembly.
Pilot Figure
A pilot figure is not included with this model. But Great Planes
offers a line of 1/4-scale Sport pilot figures: (GPMQ9010–red,
GPMQ9011-blue, GPMQ9012-yellow, GPMQ9013-unpainted).
Also available are 1/4-scale Civilian pilot figures:
(GPMQ9058–red, GPMQ9059–blue, GPMQ9060–yellow,
GPMQ9061–unpainted).(Note: The 1/4-scale red sport pilot
is mounted in the model on the box cover.)
BUILDING NOTES
• The horizontal stabilizer and wing incidences and engine
thrust angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Duetomanufacturingtoleranceswhichwillhave littleorno effect
on the way your model will fly, please expect slight deviations
between your model and the published values.
• Should covering repairs be required, the following colors of
MonoKote®may be used:
Missile Red – TOPQ0201
Metallic Blue – TOPQ0402
Aluminum – TOPQ0205
Yellow – TOPQ0203
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Extra 330S 1.60 ARF
are available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts
List that follows. The fastest, most economical service can be
provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at
www.hobbico.com.Choose “Where to Buy”at the bottom of the
menu on the left side of the page.Follow the instructions provided
on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling [phone], or via facsimile at [phone], but
full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will apply.
Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged sales tax. If
ordering via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard®number and
expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the
Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or personal
check only;no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact Product
Support by e-mail at productsuppor[email protected], or
by telephone at [phone].
Replacement Parts List
GPMA3061 Wing Set
GPMA3062 Fuselage
GPMA3063 Tail Set
GPMA3064 Cowl
GPMA3065 Canopy
GPMA3066 Landing Gear
GPMA3067 Wheel Pants
GPMA3068 Decal
GPMA3069 Wing Joiner
7

8
KIT INSPECTION
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality.If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in
the Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: [phone], ext. 5
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
Kit Contents
1 Cowl
2 Canopy Hatch
3 Fuselage
4 Spinner
5 Fuel Tank
6 Landing Gear (2)
7 Main Wheels (2)
8 Wheel Pants (L&R)
9 Fuel Tank Tray
10 Radio Tray
11 Battery Mounting Plate
12 Horizontal Stabilizer
13 Elevators
14 Tail Gear Assembly
15 Rudder
16 Aluminum Wing Joiner
17 Left Wing Panel w/Aileron
18 Right Wing Panel w/Aileron
KIT CONTENTS
KIT CONTENTS
3
4
7
8
910
11
12
13
16
14
18
17
5
1
2
8
615

SHRINKTHE COVERING
❏ 1. Examine the airframe for wrinkles in the covering or
areas where the covering isn’t adhered to the structure.Where
necessary, use a covering iron with a protective covering sock
to shrink any wrinkles and get the covering bonded to the
framework–use an iron temperature setting around 250° F
[120° C].And use care over seams.If too much heat is applied
overseamsandedges thecoveringwillpullaway.Note:Naptha
(lighter fluid) can be used to remove any adhesive left from the
masking tape holding the control surfaces.
ASSEMBLETHE WINGS
Hinge the Ailerons
❏ 1.Testfiteachailerontoitsmatchingwingwiththehinges.
Note that the pivot point of the hinges should be centered on
the pivot point of the control surface–each hinge should be
exactly halfway in. Make any adjustments necessary for the
correct fit.
❏ 2.Remove the ailerons and take out the hinges.Add a small
drop ofplastic-compatibleoil to thepivotpoint of eachhinge–be
careful not to get any oil on any other part of the hinges.
Note:When permanently hinging the ailerons to the wings in
the following step, use separate batches of 30-minute epoxy
for each wing. If you try to do it all at once, the epoxy might
harden before you finish.
During construction there will be several occasions where
epoxy cleanup will be necessary.Instead of wasting whole
paper towels, stack three or four paper towels on top
of each other and cut them into small squares. This will
conserve paper towels and the little squares are easier
to use. For epoxy clean up dampen the squares with
denatured alcohol.
❏ 3. Permanently join one of the ailerons to the matching
wing with 30-minute epoxy–a good way is to use a wire or a
toothpick to spread epoxy in each hinge hole of the aileron
and the wing. Coat one side of a hinge with epoxy and fit it
into the wing. Install the remaining four hinges in that wing
half the same way. Coat the other end of the hinges that
are sticking out, then push the aileron all the way on until
9

10
there is just enough space in the gap to see light through.
Wipe off any excess epoxy that squeezes out and move the
aileron up and down several times to center and align the
hinges. Hold the aileron to the wing with masking tape until
the epoxy hardens.
❏ 4. Hinge the other aileron to the other wing with a new
batch of 30-minute epoxy.
❏ 5.While you have someepoxymixed,glue two 5/16"x 1-1/4"
[8 x 33mm] hardwood incidence dowels into the root end of
each wing so that 1/2" [13mm] of each dowel protrudes.
❏ 6.After the epoxy on all the hinges has hardened, remove
the masking tape.Move the ailerons up and down to “break”
any epoxy from the hinge pins and get them moving freely.
Hook Up the Ailerons
❏ 1. Cut the covering from the servo openings in the
bottom of the wings. Hint: First cut the covering 1/8" [3mm]
inside the edges of the opening.Then slit the covering up to
the corners and use a trim iron to seal the covering down
inside the opening.
❏ 2. Connect a 12" [305mm] servo extension wire to each
aileron servo (for Futaba servos, Hobbico servo extensions
(HCAM2100) were used). Secure each connection with
pieces of 3" [75mm] heat-shrink tubing cut in half.Use a heat
gun to shrink the tubing.
Refer to this photo while mounting the aileron servos
and hooking up the ailerons.
❏ 3. Use the string in the wing or a wire with a hook bent
on the end to pull one of the servo wires through the servo
opening and down through the ribs out the end of one of the
wings. Place the servo in the opening. Fit the other servo in
the other wing the same way.
❏ 4.Drill 1/16"[1.6mm] holesinthe wingsfor theservomounting
screws.Temporarily mount the servos with the screws that came
with them. Remove the screws and take the servos out of the
openings. Harden the screw holes with a few drops of thin CA.
Allow the CA to harden, then mount the servos again.
❏ 5. Great Planes large-scale 1.5" [38mm] single-sided
servo arms with adapters (GPMM1105) are shown in this
manual.Select the plastic servo arm adapters for the servos
you will be using –“F”is for Futaba, “H” is for Hitec and “A”is
for Airtronics and JR.
❏ 6. If your aileron servos come with 3mm screws for
mounting the servo wheels, enlarge the hole in two metal
servo arms and plastic adapters included with this kit with a
#32 (.116" [3mm]) drill.

11
❏ 7. Mount the servo arms to the aileron servos using the
appropriate servo adapters–the arms “point” toward the
wing tips. Note: If the screws that hold on the servo arms
have machine threads that go into metal output shafts in
the servos, use a drop of threadlocker on the screws before
mounting the arms.
❏ 8. Make two 3-3/4" [95mm] aileron pushrods by cutting
the unthreaded end from two 4-40 x 12" [300mm] pushrods.
Solder a large metal clevis (the kind without threads) to each
aileron pushrod as shown in the ExpertTip that follows.
HOWTO SOLDER
1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to thoroughly
clean the pushrod. Roughen the end of the pushrod with
coarse sandpaper where it is to be soldered.
2. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end of the
pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch to heat it.“Tin”
the heated area with silver solder (STAR2000) by applying
the solder to the end.The heat of the pushrod should melt
the solder–not the flame of the torch or soldering iron–thus
allowing the solder to flow. The end of the wire should be
coated with solder all the way around.
3. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod.Add another
drop of flux, then heat and add solder. The same as
before, the heat of the parts being soldered should melt
the solder, thus allowing it to flow. Allow the joint to cool
naturally without disturbing. Avoid excess blobs, but make
certain the joint is thoroughly soldered.The solder should
be shiny, not rough.If necessary, reheat the joint and allow
to cool.
4. Immediately after the solder has solidified, but while it
is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off the flux before it
hardens. Important: After the joint cools, coat with oil to
prevent rust. Note: Do not use the acid flux that comes
with silver solder for electrical soldering.
This is what a properly soldered clevis looks like–shiny
solder with good flow, no blobs, flux removed.
❏ 9. Connect the ailerons to the aileron servos using the
hardware shown in the photo on page 10. Before mounting
thehorns,drill3/32"[2.4mm]holesforthescrews.Temporarily
mount the horns with the #4 x 1/2" [13mm] screws. Remove
thescrewsandaddafewdropsofthin CAto eachscrewhole.
Remount the horns with the screws after the CA hardens.
Caution: Be certain you have used 4-40 threaded clevises–
not solder clevises on the threaded ends of the pushrods.
Set the wings aside while you work on the fuselage.
ASSEMBLETHE FUSELAGE
Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer
❏ 1.The same as was done for the aileron servo openings in
the wings, cut the covering from the elevator servo openings
in both sides of the fuselage and use a trim iron to seal the
edges of the covering down inside. If not using the pull/pull
rudderservosetupandmountingtherudderservosoutsidethe
fuselage, cut the covering from the rudder servo openings
too.Also cut the covering from the openings for the horizontal
stabilizer and, if mounting the rudder servos internally with
the pull/pull setup, cut the slots for the cable exits.

12
❏ 2.Place each servo in its opening and drill 1/16" [1.6mm]
holes for the mounting screws.
❏ 3.Temporarily mount each servo with the screws supplied
with your radio system. Remove the screws and add a few
drops of thin CA to each hole.
Note: The following stab alignment procedure may appear
to be extensive, but these are the steps necessary to build
a model with a properly-aligned horizontal stabilizer that will
fly correctly.You could skip all the alignment steps and just
eyeball it, but you may end up with a crooked model that
won’t fly straight. Please follow all of the instructions and
take your time to end up with an airplane that is straight
and true.
❏ 4. Slide the stab into the fuselage.Center the trailing edge
(TE) in the fuselage by taking accurate measurements on
both sides.
❏ 5. Once you have the trailing edge centered, stick large
T-pins through the trailing edge tightly against both sides of
the fuselage.This will keep the trailing edge centered while
rotating the leading edge in the next step.
❏ 6. Push another T-pin through the top of F1 at the
centerline. Tie a small loop in one end of an approximately
60" [1.5m] piece of non-elastic string (such as K+S or Kevlar
fishing string). Fold a piece of masking tape over the string
near the other end and mark an arrow on it.Swing the string
over to the tip on one side of the stab and slide the tape
along the string until the arrow aligns with the tip. Swing the
string over to the same spot on the other side of the stab and
rotate the stab. Move the tape until both sides are the same
and the stab is squared.
One more alignment procedure to go…

13
❏ 7. Now that the stab is centered, temporarily mount the
wing to the fuselage with the wing tube and the wing bolts.
Suggestion: Access to the wing bolts will be much easier
with a Great Planes 4-in-1 Installation Tool (GPMR8035).
This will be especially helpful when you get to the flying field
and need to get the wing bolts tight.
❏ 8. Standing about 6' [2m] behind the model, view the
alignment of the stab and wing. If the stab is not parallel with
the wing, it will take just a few ounces of weight to “dial it in.”
Place incrementally increasing amounts of weight on the high
side of the stab until you can get it to align with the wing.
❏ 9.Now that you know how much (if any) weight it will take
to get the stab to align with the wing, take off the weight, set
it aside, and use a ballpoint pen to carefully mark the sides
of the fuselage all the way around both sides of the stab.
❏ 10. Take the T-pins out of the stab and take the stab out
of the fuselage. Use a soldering iron with a small tip to melt
through the covering 1/32" to 1/16" [.5 to 1.5mm] inside the
lines you marked all the way around–use a flexible, metal
straightedge to guide the soldering iron. If you don’t have a
soldering iron, a sharp hobby knife could also be used to cut
the covering, but great care must be used not to cut into the
balsa underneath. Otherwise, the stab will be weakened.
❏ 11. Peel the covering from the middle of the stab.
Now that all the preliminary work has been done, the stab
can finally be glued into position.
❏ 12.Apply liberal beads of epoxy all the way around the top
and bottom of the stab just inside the edges of the covering
you cut where the stab will join the fuselage. Slide the stab
into position. Slide it another 1/4" [6mm] out the other side
as shown.Apply more epoxy all the way around the exposed
balsa, then slide the stab back into place.Wipe away excess
epoxy, use the T-pins and the pin and string to re center the

14
stab, add any weight that may have been necessary to align
the stab with the wing, wipe away more epoxy that may have
dripped out, check the alignment once more, then do not
disturb the model until the epoxy has hardened.
Hinge the Elevators & Rudder
Hinging the elevators and rudder is done the same
as you did the ailerons, but we’ll give you a brief run-
through anyway.
❏ 1. If you haven’t yet done so, remove the wings from
the fuselage.
❏ 2.Test fit both elevators to the stab and the rudder to the
vertical stab (fin) with the hinges.Make sure the hinges are
centered and make any adjustments necessary.
❏ 3. Remove the elevators and rudder and take out all the
hinges.The same way you did for the aileron hinges, add a
small drop of oil to the pivot point of each hinge.
❏4. Permanently hinge the elevators to the stab and the rudder
to the fin–don’t forget to use separate batches of 30-minute
epoxy for each control surface–otherwise you may run out of
working time with the epoxy.
❏ 5.After the epoxy on all the hinges has hardened, remove
the masking tape and rapidly move the surfaces to “break”
any epoxy from the hinge pins and get the surfaces moving
freely again.
Ifmountingtherudderservosinsidethefuselagewiththe
pull/pull cables, skip ahead to “Hook up the Elevators.”
(Remember, gas engine installations should use the aft,
external rudder servo location.)
Hook Up the External Rudder Servos
❏ 1. If mounting the receiver to the forward servo tray,
connect 36" [910mm] servo extension wires to the rudder
servos. If mounting the receiver to the aft servo tray,
connect 24" [610mm] servo extension wires to the rudder
servos. Later, the rudder servos will be linked with a “Y”
connector and connected to one channel in the receiver. If
not yet certain where you will be mounting the receiver, you
may connect the extensions later.
❏ 2.The same as was done for the servo extension wires on
the aileron servos, secure the connections with 3" [75mm]
pieces of heat-shrink tubing cut in half.
Refer to this photo while hooking up the external rudder
servos and elevator servos.
❏ 3.Guidetherudderservowiresdownthroughthefuselage
and mount the servos. Note that the servo output shafts on
both rudder servos are toward the aft end of the fuselage.
❏ 4. Select the plastic servo arm adapters for the servos
you will be using –“F”is for Futaba, “H” is for Hitec and “A”is
for Airtronics and JR.
❏ 5. Same as the aileron servos, use the 3mm screws
supplied with your radio system to mount the servo wheels/
arms. Drill out the hole in the metal servo arms and plastic
adapters included with this kit with a #32 (.116" [3mm]) drill.
❏ 6.Temporarily mount the servo arms to the servos using
the appropriate servo adapters and servo screws.
❏ 7. Make two 4-3/8" [111mm] rudder pushrods from two
4-40 x 12" [300mm] pushrods. Use the same techniques
described for making the aileron pushrods to solder large
metal clevises to the ends of the rudder pushrods and make
sure the clevises on the threaded end of the pushrods are
the threaded kind.
❏ 8.Trim the bottom hole from two control horns as shown.
❏ 9. Connect the rudder pushrods to the rudder servo arms,
then connect the rudder horns to the other end of the rudder

15
pushrods.Hold the horns to the rudder and drill 3/32" [2.4mm]
holes 1/2" [13mm] deep for the mounting screws – same as
the aileron horns, the rudder horns should be mounted all the
way forward. Mount the horns to the rudder with #4 x 1/2"
[13mm] screws.Don’t forget to remove the screws.Harden the
holes with a few drops of thin CA, allow to harden, and then
remount the horns.
Hook Up the Elevators
Note that, because the elevator servos move in opposition,
theymustbeconnectedtotwodifferentchannelsandlinked
electronically via mixing in the transmitter (or connected to
a Futaba Servo SR-10 Dual Servo Reverser (FUTM4150)
so that one of the servos can be reversed).
Refer to the previous photo showing the servos while
hooking up the elevators.
❏ 1. If mounting the receiver to the forward servo tray,
connect 36" [910mm] servo extension wires to the elevator
servos.Ifmountingthe receivertotheaft servotray,connect
24" [610mm] servo extension wires to the elevator servos.If
not yet certain where you will be mounting the receiver, you
may connect the extensions later.
❏ 2.The same as was done for the servo extension wires on
the aileron servos, secure the connections with 3" [75mm]
pieces of heat-shrink tubing cut in half.
❏ 3. Guide the elevator servo wires down through the
fuselage and mount the servos. Note that the servo output
shafts are forward.
❏ 4. Select the plastic servo arm adapters for your servos
– “F” is for Futaba, “H” is for Hitec and “A” is for Airtronics
and JR.
❏ 5. Same as the aileron servos, use the 3mm screws
supplied with your radio system to mount the servo wheels/
arms. Drill out the hole in the metal servo arms and plastic
adapters included with this kit with a #32 (.116" [3mm]) drill.
❏ 6.Temporarily mount the servo arms to the servos using
the appropriate servo adapters and servo screws.
❏ 7.Make two 5-1/2" [140mm] elevator pushrods from two
4-40 x 12" [300mm] pushrods.If mounting the rudder servos
inside the fuselage with the pull/pull setup, save the leftover
pieces of pushrod you cut off for connecting the rudder
servos later. Use the same techniques described for making
the aileron pushrods to solder large metal solder clevises to
the ends of the elevator pushrods.
❏ 8.Connect the pushrods to the servo arms.Then, connect
the horns to the other end of the pushrods. Hold the horns
to the elevators and drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes 1/2" [13mm]
deep for the mounting screws – same as the aileron and
rudder horns, the elevator horns should be mounted all the
way forward. Mount the horns to the elevators with #4 x 1/2"
[13mm] screws. Don’t forget to remove the screws, harden
the holes with a few drops of thin CA and allow to harden
before remounting the horns.
If you already mounted the rudder servos in the back of the
fuselage, skip ahead to page 18 and mount the tail gear.
Mount the Pull/Pull Rudder Servos
❏ 1. Mount the rudder servos in the rudder servo tray in
the fuselage by drilling 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the screws,
temporarily installing, removing, and hardening the holes with
thin CA. Connect both servos to a dual servo connector. Then
temporarilyconnect theconnectorinto therudder channelinyour
receiver. Also connect a receiver battery and an on/off switch to
the receiver so you can operate the servos with the transmitter.
Refer to this photo for the following two steps.
❏ 2. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
rudder trim on the transmitter. With the rudder servos
powered up and the trims centered, mount a servo wheel
to each servo.Use the servo arm screws that came with the
servos to mount the plywood servo arm drilling template to
the servos over the wheels.
❏ 3. With your radio system still on, use the holes in the
plywood servo arm drilling template as a guide to drill 3/32"
[2.4mm] holes through the servo wheels. Now you may turn
off the radio.

16
❏ 4. Remove the plywood servo arm drilling template.
Keeping the servo wheel in the same orientation as when it
wason the servo, remove the servo wheel from theaftrudder
servo. Mount one of the aluminum pull/pull rudder servo
arms to the wheel as shown with four 2-56 x 3/8" [10mm]
screws and 2-56 nuts–be certain to use threadlocker on
the threads. Optional: After mounting the servo arm, cut off
the screws, then file the ends flat and smooth.
❏ 5. Mount two large screw-lock pushrod connectors in the
outer holes on each end of the servo arm and secure the
connectors with a one-way push-on washer. Remount the
servo wheel with the aluminum servo arm to the servo.
Be certain to install the screw that retains the wheel–use
threadlocker if they are machine-thread screws.
❏ 6.Mount and setup the other rudder pull/pull servo arm
to the servo wheel on the other rudder servo.
Refertothisphotoofthecompletedrudderservohookup
while performing the installation in the following steps.
❏ 7.Maketwo3" [75mm] rudder pushrods fromthe leftover
4-40 pushrod wire you saved from the elevators.Turn on the
transmitter and receiver. Connect the servo arms on the
rudder servos with the rudder pushrods and four 4-40 x 1/4"
[6.4mm] SHCS.Turn off the radio.
Hook Up the Pull/Pull Rudder Cables
❏ 1. Cut the supplied braided steel cable into two equal-
length pieces. (There should be enough cable to make two
sets–in case you make a mistake.) Set one of the pieces
aside in case you need it as a spare.
❏ ❏ 2. Cut the other piece of cable in half again. Slide a
copper swage and a threaded brass coupler onto one end of
one of the cables.There should be approximately 1" [25mm]
of cable coming from the coupler.
❏ ❏ 3.Loop the cable over and slip it into the swage.Adjust
theposition oftheswagesothe cablemakesaloopand there
is approximately 3/8" [10mm] between the end of the swage
and the coupler. Squeeze the swage tightly with pliers.
❏ ❏ 4.Trim the bottom hole from two control horns as shown.

17
❏ ❏ 5.Threada4-40 nutand a4-40clevisontothethreaded
coupler on the cable. Fit a silicone clevis retainer over the
clevis.Connect the clevis to what used to be the middle hole
in one of the control horns you prepared, but now is the third
hole from the top.
❏ ❏ 6. Slide one of the pieces of blue heat-shrink tubing
over the cable. Shrink the heat-shrink tubing over the cable
somewhere near the middle (you will still be able to slide
the tubing after it has been shrunk). Position the heat-shrink
tubing so the middle of the tube is 18-3/4" [475mm] from
the pin in the clevis. Slide the heat-shrink tubing over a
couple more inches and coat the cable with a few drops of
medium CA where the tubing used to be. Slide the heat-
shrink tubing back and forth a few times to get the CA inside,
then reposition the tubing as previously described so it is
centered 18-3/4" [475mm] from the pin.
❏ 7. While the CA in the heat-shrink tubing is hardening,
repeat steps 2 through 6 for the other cable.
❏ 8. Slide the other end of one of the cables through the
exit slot in the right side of the fuselage under the horizontal
stabilizer.Reach down into the fuselage and pull the cable up
to the rudder servos.
❏ 9. Hold the rudder centered with a few pieces of
masking tape.
❏ 10.Using one hand to hold the cable to the left side of the
servo arm on the aft rudder servo (the cables cross inside
the fuselage), use your other hand to hold the control horn
to the right side of the rudder so the cable aligns with the
exit slot.
❏ 11.Mount the horn to the rudder in this location by drilling
four 3/32" [2.4mm] holes and using four #4 x 1/2" [13mm]
screws–don’t forget to harden the holes with thin CA.
❏ 12. Mount the other cable to the other side of the rudder
the same way.
❏ 13.Connect another 4-40 clevis, a 4-40 nut and a silicone
retainer to another threaded coupler.
❏ 14. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. Slide a swage
over thepull/pullcablein thefuselagethat isconnectedtothe
horn on the right side of the rudder. Loop the cable through
the coupler.Connect the clevis on the cable to the hole in the
servo arm. With the rudder servos centered, pull the cable
tight and loop the cable around the threaded coupler. Then,
slide the swage over the end of the loop and squeeze the
swage with pliers. Cut off the excess cable.
❏ 15. Adjust the tension in the cable by disconnecting one
of the clevises on either end of the cable and threading or
unthreading the clevis on the coupler. The cable should be
somewhat taut–about as tight as a loose guitar string–but
not so tight that it puts much strain on the servos, clevises or
rudder. Reconnect the clevis.
❏ 16.Connect the other rudder cable to the other side of the
rudder servo arm the same way.
❏ 17. Remove the masking tape from the rudder. Give
the rudder a “test run” by working the controls with your
radio. With the system powered up and the rudder trim still
centered, center the rudder by adjusting the length of the
cables and adjusting the cable tension.With the offset servo
arm, cable tension should be about the same with the rudder
centered as it is when the rudder is at full throw.
❏ 18. Once the rudder setup has been finalized, lock the
clevises to the threaded couplers by tightening the 4-40 nuts.
❏ 19. Cut another piece of heat-shrink tubing to secure the
connection between the rudder servos and the dual servo

18
connector. If using a Futaba dual servo connector, the heat-
shrinktubingwill havetobe stretchedto fitovertheconnector
by slipping it over long nose pliers and holding it open to
stretch the heat-shrink tubing.Fit the heat-shrink tubing over
the connector, and then shrink the tubing.
Mount theTail Gear
Refer to this photo and the sketch while mounting the
tail gear.
❏ 1. Cut the covering from the hole in the bottom of the
fuselage for the nylon tail gear bearing. Roughen the
bearing with medium-grit sandpaper.Then, use medium CA
to securely glue the tail gear bearing into position. Use care
not to get any glue inside the bearing.
❏ 2.Mount the aluminum collar to the tail gear wire with the
set screw and a drop of threadlocker applied to the threads.
Use the hex wrench included with the tail gear (or your own
1/16" [1.6mm] hex wrench) to tighten the set screw.
❏ 3.Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into the bottom of the fuselage
for the bracket mounting screws. Temporarily mount the
bracket and the tail gear with #2 x 1/2" [13mm] screws.
Remove the screws, set the bracket aside, add a drop or two
of thin CA to each screw hole, and allow to harden. Then,
remount the bracket with the screws.
❏ 4.Drill a5/32"[4mm]holethrough themiddleof thebottom
of the rudder 4" [100mm] from the leading edge. Fit the tiller
spring into the steering post, insert the post onto the hole in
the rudder, and permanently glue in the post with thin CA.
Note: If you prefer working on the model with it resting on
its landing gear rather than sitting in your building stand, you
may go ahead and mount the main landing gear (with or
without the wheels for now) at this time.If you want to mount
the landing gear, use six 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, #6 lock
washers, #6 flat washers and a drop of threadlocker on the
threads. If you want to mount the wheels too skip ahead to
“Mount the Landing Gear” on page 32.
Mount the Engine or Electric Motor
❏ 1. Turn to the back cover page and cut out the mounting
template for the type of power system you will be using–one
template is for the Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2 gas engine and
the other is for both the included Great Planes 1.20 to 1.80
adjustable engine mount for glow engines and the ElectriFly
Brushless Motor Mount for extra large motors (GPMG1265
– not included).
❏ 2.Tape the template to the firewall with the cross marks
on the template aligned with the cross marks on the firewall.
Use a piece of wire sharpened on the end or aT-pin to mark
the cross marks for the bolt holes in the template onto the
firewall. Note: If mounting a gas engine different than the
Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2, use the mounting template that came
with your engine or make your own template, or center the
engine on the cross marks and use the mounting holes in
the engine to mark the firewall. Note: If using the O.S. 1.60
FX, also mark the location for the throttle pushrod.
❏ 3. Remove the template.Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] pilot holes at
all the marks. If mounting the Fuji-Imvac BT-43EI-2 engine,
enlarge the pilot holes with a 1/4" [6.4mm] drill for 10-32 or
10-24 blind nuts.If using the included 1.20 to 1.80 adjustable
engine mount for glow engines or the ElectriFly motor mount,
enlarge the pilot holes with a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill for the
included 8-32 blind nuts. If using the O.S. 1.60, also enlarge
the pilot hole for the throttle with a 3/16" [4.8mm] drill.

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❏ 4.Forthe Fuji-ImvacBT-43EI-2 engine installation or other
gas engines, use one of your #10 engine mounting bolts (not
included) and a couple of washers to draw the blind nuts (not
included) into the back of the firewall. If using the included
adjustable engine mount, use an 8-32 x 1" [25mm] SHCS
and a couple of washers to pull the included 8-32 blind nuts
into the back of the firewall.
If mounting an electric motor skip to“Mount the Electric
Motor”on page 26.
❏ 5.If using a gas engine, mount the engine with the engine
mounting bolts and lock washers (not included), then skip
to “Assemble the Fuel Tank.” If mounting a glow engine,
mountthe engine mount halvestothe firewall with four8-32 x
1-1/4" [32mm] SHCS and #8 flat washers and lock washers,
but do not tighten the screws all the way yet.
❏ 6. With the fuselage lying on its left side in your building
stand, place the engine on the engine mount.Adjust the two
halves of the engine mount to fit the engine.Then tighten the
engine mount bolts.
❏ 7. Use a small C-clamp or two to hold the engine to the
mount so that the front of the drive washer (or the backplate
of the spinner) is 6-3/4" [170mm] from the firewall. Use a
Great Planes Dead Center™Hole Locator or a drill bit to
mark the engine mounting holes into the engine mount.
❏ 8.Take the engine off the mount. If you have a drill press
that will drill the holes squarely, remove the mount from the
firewall and drill #29 holes at the marks. If you don’t have a
drill press, you can leave the mount attached to the fuselage
for drilling the holes.
❏ 9. Use an 8-32 tap to cut threads into the holes. Remount
the engine mount to the firewall, but don’t tighten the bolts
yet.Mount the engine to the mount with four 8-32 x 1" [25mm]
SHCS and #8 lock washers. Center the engine mount on the
engine mount bolts, then fully tighten the engine mount bolts.
ASSEMBLETHE FUELTANK
If using a gasoline-powered engine the fuel tank setup
will have to be converted to work with gas using the
hardware listed in the front of the manual. Follow these
instructions for assembling your fuel tank for the type of
engine you are using.
Glow Engines
❏ 1.Cut two of the aluminum tubes that came inthefuel tank
to a length of 1-1/2" [40mm].(This can be done by rolling the
tubing on your workbench with a #11 blade.) Assemble the
stopper as shown in the photo. Bend the long tube so it will
be at the top of the tank. Cut the fuel lines so the clunks
cannot contact the back of the tank–otherwise they could
get stuck. Note that one of the lines will be used for fueling
and defueling and the other line will be the pickup line that
goes to the carburetor. The bent tube will be connected to
the vent/pressure line that will go to the pressure tap on the
muffler. Proceed to step 4 to finish assembling the fuel tank.
Gas Engines
❏ 1. Cut one of the brass tubes included with the Sullivan
conversion kit in half, making two approximately 1-3/4"
[45mm] tubes. Solder a Du-Bro fuel line barb onto one end
of each of the three tubes.

20
❏ 2. Assemble the stopper, tubes and metal plates. Solder
another fuel line barb onto the ends of the short tubes.Bend
the brass vent/overflow tube upward so it will be at the top
of the tank.
❏ 3. Connect the fuel tubing to the short tubes and the
clunks–cut the lines so that the clunks cannot contact the
back of the tank–otherwise they could get stuck. Note that
one of the lines will be used for fueling and defueling and the
other line will be the pickup line that goes to the carburetor.
The bent tube will be the vent/overflow line that will be
connected to a line that exits the bottom of the fuselage.
Important: Secure both ends of both fuel tubes with small
nylon ties. This is an important measure that must be taken
to be sure the lines remain attached inside the tank.
VENT/PRESSURE
(OR OVERFLOW)
One line is for fueling/defueling and
the other is for fuel pickup to the
carburetor (it doesn’t matter which).
❏ 4. Write “TOP” on the back of the tank so you will know
which way to install it after inserting the stopper assembly.
Insert the stopper so the vent tube will be at the top of the
tank.Then tighten the screw to squish the stopper and seal
the tank. Shake the tank to make sure the clunks can move
around and the fuel lines are not too long. If necessary,
remove the stopper and shorten the lines.
Mount the FuelTank
❏ 1. Glue the plywood fuel tank tray former inside the
fuselage as shown.
❏ 2. Use a hobby knife or sandpaper to bevel the front
edges of the plywood fuel tank tray (the front is the end with
the longer tab).The side with the beveled edges will now be
the bottom. (There is another photo showing the bevel in
step 1, on page 26.)
❏ 3.Cut two of the 12" [300mm] strips of the rougher “hook”
sideoftheincludedVelcromaterialintotwo8"[200mm]strips.
Cut two more of the softer “loop” strips to the same length.
Make two fuel tank straps by overlapping 2-1/2" [60mm] of
the ends of the straps. Use medium CA to glue the straps to
the bottom of the fuel tank tray in alignment with the cutouts
in the sides.