GREAT PLANES Spirit of St. Louis User manual

WARRANTY
Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case
shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act
of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION MANUAL
FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
GPMZ0240 for GPMA1151 V1.0Entire Contents © Copyright 2002
1610 Interstate Drive Champaign, IL 61822
[phone], Ext. 2
[e-mail]
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
ELECTRIC PARKFLYER

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
PRECAUTIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Flight Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Building Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Parts Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
PARTS DRAWINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Assemble the Tail Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Assemble the Battery Holder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Assemble the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Install the Servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Hook Up the Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Assemble the Landing Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Mount the Motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Assemble the Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
FINAL ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Set the Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Balance the Model (C.G.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Identify Your Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Charge the Transmitter Batteries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Ground Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Range Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Performance Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Motor Safety Precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
FLYING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
ROG. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
BALSA FAIRING PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . back cover
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Spirit of St.
Louis ARF. The Spirit of St. Louis ARF is a lightweight, slow-
flying
Park Flyer that can be flown just about anywhere there
is an open area clear of obstacles. Since the Spirit of St.
Louis ARF is constructed mostly of molded plastic foam, it
is durable and does not require the application of film
coverings used on wood models. And, the Spirit of St. Louis
landing gear makes ROG (rise off ground) takeoffs from
smooth surfaces a snap.
1. Although the Spirit of St. Louis is a slow-flying electric
powered model, just the same as any R/C plane, it should
still be flown with care. Even while gliding with the motor off
the Spirit of St. Louis could possibly cause injury to yourself
or spectators and damage property.
2. You must assemble the Spirit of St. Louis according to
the instructions. Modifications may reduce performance. In
cases where the instructions differ from the photos, the
written instructions are correct.
3.You must use a R/C radio system that is reliable and in good
condition. You must properly install all components so that the
model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
4. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality
kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality of your
finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot
in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
INTRODUCTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
2

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit with
the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also inspect
all parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If
any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have
any questions about building or flying this airplane,
please call us at [phone], or e-mail us at:
productsuppor[email protected].
If you are contacting us for replacement parts, please be
sure to provide the full kit name (Great Planes Spirit of St.
Louis ARF) and the part numbers as listed in the Parts List.
You can also check our web site for the latest Spirit of
St. Louis ARF updates.
www.greatplanes.com
To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, if
this is your first R/C model, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot. If you’re not currently a
member of an R/C club, your local hobby shop has
information about clubs in your area whose membership
includes experienced pilots.
If you’re not already an Academy of Model Aeronautics
(AMA) member, we strongly urge you to join. There are over
2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Among
other benefits, the AMA provides insurance to its members
who fly at sanctioned sites and events. Additionally, training
programs and instructors are available at AMA club sites to
help you get started the right way. Contact the AMA at the
address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. [phone]
Fax [phone]
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
The Spirit of St. Louis ARF requires a three-channel radio
with two micro servos, a mini/micro receiver and a speed
control. Hobbico®CS-5 Nano™ servos (HCAM0090), the
Great Planes ElectriFly™ receiver (GPML0040 Hi Band,
GPML0041 Low Band) and the Great Planes C-5
(GPMM2000) or C-10 (GPMM2010) speed control are
recommended. The receiver comes without a crystal, which
must be purchased separately. The order number for the
crystal is FUTL63** (Hi Band) or FUTL62** (Low Band).
Substitute the “**” with the channel number you require. For
example, if the transmitter you plan to fly The Spirit of St.
Louis ARF with is on channel 44, order receiver crystal
FUTL6344. Hi Band receivers are tuned for channels 36 –
60. Low Band receivers are tuned for channels 11 – 35.
Additionally, an 8-cell (9.6 volt) 150 to 350 mAh battery pack
(GPMP0050 – 150 mAh, shown in photo, GPMP0060 – 270
mAh, GPMP0070 – 350 mAh) is required. For charging the
battery, the Great Planes ElectriFly Peak Charger
(GPMM3000) is recommended.
Flight Equipment
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
3

In addition to common household tools, here is the list of
items used to build The Spirit of St. Louis ARF.
❏6-minute epoxy (GPMR6042)
❏1/2 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏#11 blades (HCAR0211)
❏Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
❏Drill and 1/16” drill bit
❏Double-sided foam tape (GPMQ4440) for mounting
receiver and speed control
❏Sandpaper and sanding block
❏Small Phillips screwdriver (#1)
❏Small T-pins (HCAR5100) or craft pins
·Since The Spirit of St. Louis ARF is made mostly of foam,
and since CA adhesives commonly used to build R/C model
airplanes dissolve foam, CA should not be used when gluing
foam parts. Therefore, 6-minute epoxy, which is compatible
with foam, is used for most of the construction. Unless
otherwise specified in the instructions, 6-minute epoxy is to
be used for gluing all parts of the model together. There are
a few instances where CA may be used for gluing wood to
wood.You can also use aliphatic resin glue instead of epoxy
if desired.
·For the strongest bond apply epoxy to both parts being joined.
·Before beginning construction, refer to the parts drawings
and use a ballpoint pen to write the part number on all the
wood parts.
Important Building NotesBuilding Supplies
4
1. Cowl
2. Spinner
3. Spinner base
4. Cylinders
5. Landing gear wires
6. Wheel covers
7. Wheels
8. Pushrods
9. Motor, gearbox and propeller
10. Landing gear fairings
Parts Layout
All other wood parts are identified on the following page.

5
PARTS DRAWINGS (not actual size)

❏1. Using the precut lines as a guide, use a sharp hobby
knife to cut the rudder from the fin and the elevator from
the stabilizer (stab).
❏2. Sand a bevel to the bottom of the leading edge of the
elevator. The elevator is upside-down when the slot for the
control horn is on the left side.
❏3. Lay the stab and elevator on your workbench with the
slot in the elevator on the right side. Be certain there is a
1/32” gap between the elevator and the stab. Use one piece
of cellophane tape on the top to join the elevator to the stab.
❏4. Sand a bevel to one side of the rudder (it doesn’t
matter which side), then use cellophane tape to join the
rudder to the fin just the same as you joined the elevator to
the stab.
❏5. Use a hobby knife to carefully widen the slot in the
rudder and the elevator for the 1/64” plywood control horns
(9). Only a small sliver of foam is to be removed.
❏6. Enlarge the holes in the control horn for the pushrod
wire with a T-pin. Glue the control horns into the slots. Be
certain the elevator control horn is on the bottom and the
rudder control horn is on the left (the stab and elevator are
shown upside-down in the photo). Also be certain the
control horns are facing forward.
❏7. Use epoxy to glue the fin to the stab. Use a small
builder’s square to get the fin perpendicular to the stab, then
use tape or small T-pins to hold them together until the
epoxy hardens.
Assemble the Tail Surfaces
ASSEMBLY
6

❏1. Without using any glue, assemble the 1/8” balsa parts
of the battery holder (C, E, F, F) as shown in the photo.
Once all the parts are joined, use medium CA to
permanently hold them together. Be sure the parts are
square to each other, not twisted.
Note: The cutouts in C and E are at the top. Parts F are
oriented with the end that has the steeper slope at the top.
❏2. Build the battery holder cover from parts A and D.
Glue A ¼” from the end of D as shown in the photo. Note:
You may need to trim the end of A to get it to fit into the
battery holder properly.
❏3. The cutouts in C and E may need to be trimmed at an
angle to allow the battery holder cover to fit properly in the
battery holder.
❏4. Glue the two 1/32” x 11/16 x 1-3/8” [1 x 18 x 34mm] ply
battery holder reinforcement (5) around the cutouts in
parts C and E as shown in the photo.
❏5. Fit the battery holder cover into the battery holder. Glue
the tab (4) and the tab mount (B) to the holder as shown.
The tab will hold the cover in position, until removal or
installation of the battery is required. Note: Sanding the tab
mount at an angle as shown in the photo will increase the
pressure on the cover.
Assemble the Battery Holder
7

Due to the manufacturing process, there may be some
small surface stress marks on the fuselage and wing. This
is normal.
❏1. Using the indentations in the aft end of the fuselage as a
guide, cut the slots for the elevator and rudder pushrods. Do
not cut the slots for the stab braces until instructed to do so.
❏2. Use one of the landing gear wires to punch a hole at
the three marked locations for the landing gear on each side
of the fuselage. These holes will be used to align the
formers that will be installed in the fuselage. The left
fuselage side is shown in the above photo.
❏3. Temporarily fit the 1/8” balsa rear landing gear former
(J) into the fuselage. Be certain it is centered on the rear
two holes you punched in the fuselage sides. Use a fine-
point felt-tip pen to mark the inside of the fuselage for the
landing gear wires on both sides of the slot in the landing
gear former.
❏4. Remove the landing gear former. Cut a slot in the
fuselage from the inside, centered in the groove, from one
mark to the other. Use one of the aft landing gear wires as
a guide for cutting the width and height of the slot.
❏5. Use medium CA to glue both 1/32” plywood doublers
(3) to both sides of former J. Mark the ply doublers at the
location of the slots in former J.
Assemble the Fuselage
8

❏6. Temporarily fit the 1/8” balsa front former (M) into the
fuselage. Be certain it is centered on the four forward holes
you punched in the fuselage sides. Use a fine-point felt-tip
pen to mark the inside of the fuselage on both sides of the
slot in the former for the landing gear wires.
Note: The molding process for the type of foam used in the
fuselage allows some variation in thickness. If former M
protrudes above the top of the fuselage, sand the BOTTOM of
the former until the top of the former aligns with the top of the
fuselage. Be careful not to change the curvature of the former.
❏7. Remove the landing gear former. Cut a slot in the
fuselage from the inside, centered in the groove, from one
mark to the other. Use one of the forward landing gear wires
as a guide for cutting the width and height of the slot.
❏8. Use medium CA to glue both 1/32” plywood doublers
(1,2) to the front and back of former M. Mark the ply
doublers at the location of the slots in former M. Mark the
side of the former shown in the above photo “REAR”.
❏9. Glue front former M and rear former J into position using
6-minute epoxy. Make sure the formers are aligned with the
marks you made earlier. Use the landing gear wires to insure
that the formers are aligned over the slots in the sides of the
fuselage. Remove the wires before the epoxy hardens.
❏10. Test fit the 1/8” ply rear nose former (L) into the nose
of the fuselage. The former should be a slightly firm fit in the
fuselage. The large hole in the former is closest to the
bottom of the fuselage. Former L is the smaller of the two
ply nose formers.
Note: If the former is too large, do not sand it as the former
is the proper size for mounting the cowl. Instead, use a
dowel or pencil to compress the foam on the inside of the
nose until the former fits properly.
9

❏11. Glue the rear nose former to the 1/8” ply front nose
former (K) with medium CA, being careful to align all three
holes in both parts as shown in the photo. Be sure the three
punch marks in K face out.
❏12. Trial fit the nose former assembly into the nose of the
fuselage. If the front nose former extends beyond the sides
of the fuselage, remove the assembly and sand it until it is
even with the sides. Do not sand it while it is fitted into the
nose as you can easily damage the foam fuselage. Once
you are satisfied with the fit, glue the assembly into place
with 6-minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a
paper towel dampened with denatured alcohol.
❏1. Glue the 1/8” balsa pushrod brace (G) perpendicular
to the 1/8” balsa servo tray (H) with medium CA.
❏2. Glue the servo tray assembly into the fuselage with
6-minute epoxy. The cutout in the front of the tray should
align with the front of the rear LG former.
❏3. Install the pushrods and guide tubes into the
fuselage by inserting them in the holes you made in the rear
of the fuselage. Do not glue the pushrods into position until
instructed to do so. The pushrods cross inside the fuselage.
The elevator pushrod, which exits from the right side of the
fuselage, has the ends bent at 90 degrees to each other.
Install the Servos
10

Refer to this sketch and the photograph for the
following two steps.
❏4. Fit the servos into the 1/8” balsa servo mounts (I). Drill
1/16” holes through the servo mounts, then mount the
servos to the servo mounts with the screws that came with
the servos.
❏5. Fit the servo mounts with the servos into the servo tray.
Do not glue the servo mounts to the servo tray until
instructed to do so. Connect the pushrods to the servos by
inserting them into the servo arm from the bottom. The
pushrods will be secured to the servo arm later. If the
pushrods do not align with the servos, cut slots in the
pushrod brace that will allow the pushrods to align as shown
in the photo and in the sketch. Use a long servo arm for the
rudder servo and a short arm for the elevator servo.
❏1. Glue the stab and fin to the fuselage with 6-minute
epoxy. Make sure the fin is centered on the molded-in seam
on the top of the fuselage and that it is parallel with the
centerline of the fuselage. Before the epoxy hardens,
position the wing on the fuselage and view the wing and
stab from behind. If necessary, raise or lower one side of the
stab until it is parallel with the wing. Use pins to hold the
stab into position until the epoxy has fully hardened. Fill any
gaps between the fuse and the bottom of the stab sparingly
with additional epoxy.
❏2. Connect the aft end of the pushrods to the control
horns on the elevator and rudder by inserting them into the
outermost hole. If necessary, make small bends in the
pushrods to get them to align with the holes in the horns. Be
certain there is a small amount of sideways tension in the
rods so they remain connected to the horns. Cut two 1/8”
[3mm] long pieces from the small white plastic tube. Place
one piece on the end of both pushrods to hold them onto
the control horns. Place a small drop of CA on each piece
to hold it in place.
Hook Up the Controls
11

❏3. Use a piece of cellophane tape on both sides of the
rudder to hold it to the rear of the fuselage.
❏4. Temporarily connect the speed control and servos to
the receiver. Turn on the transmitter, then center the trims.
Connect the charged battery to the speed control. If the
servo arms are not centered, remove the arms from the
servos and center the arms.
❏5. Cut two 1/8” [3mm] long pieces from the small white
plastic tube. Place one piece on the end of both pushrods
to hold them onto the servo arms. Place a small drop of CA
on each piece to hold it in place.
❏6. With the pushrods connected to the servos and the
control surfaces, position the servo trays so the elevator and
rudder are neutral. Carefully glue the servo mounts to the
servo tray with medium CA.
❏7. Now that the servos have been positioned and the
controls are centered, use 6-minute epoxy to glue the ends
of the pushrod guide tubes to the slots in the fuselage and
the slots in the pushrod brace. Be careful not to get any
epoxy into the ends of the pushrods.
❏8. Mount the plywood tail braces (11, 12) to the bottom
of the stab and the fuse. Cut small slots in the bottom of the
fuse at the indentations to accommodate the ends of the
struts, but do not cut slots in the stab. Bevel ends at
stabilizer for a better fit and more gluing surface. Glue the
struts into position with epoxy.
The landing gear looks delicate and difficult to install, but
they are actually very strong and quite easy to assemble.
We will start with the right landing gear assembly.
❏❏1. Cut a piece from the small dark tube to the length of
the groove in the 1/8” [3.2mm] balsa part LG. Using epoxy,
glue the tube into the groove in LG. Drill two 1/16” [1.6mm]
holes where shown in the photo. This assembly will now be
referred to as the “shock absorber assembly”.
❏❏2. Glue the 1/16” [1.6mm] wire landing gear part
shown in the photo to the 1/32” [0.8mm] ply part 10 with
6-minute epoxy. Be sure to align the wire part with the hole
marked on the ply part. When the epoxy has hardened,
enlarge the hole with a 1/16” [1.6mm] drill. This assembly
will now be referred to as the “bottom brace wire assembly”.
❏❏3. Without using any glue, insert the forward landing
gear wire into the front slot in the fuselage. Both forward
landing gear wires are the same. The photo shows the
bottom of the fuselage viewed from the firewall.
Assemble the Landing Gear
12

❏❏4. Next, insert the rear wire. There is a left and right
rear wire so make sure you are using the correct wire. The
longer end should be oriented as shown in the photo above.
❏❏5. From the large white plastic tube cut two pieces 3/8”
[9.5mm] long. Use one to hold the bottom of the wires together.
Note: You may need to “tweak” the wires a bit to get them to
fit properly.
❏❏6. Insert the ends of the top of the wires into the two
holes in the shock absorber assembly you made earlier.
❏❏7. Insert the bottom brace wire assembly you made
earlier into the tube in the shock absorber assembly, then
insert the main landing gear wire into the hole in the wire
assembly as shown in the above photo.
❏❏8. Insert the top brace wire into the tube in the top of
the shock absorber assembly and the top hole in the
fuselage.You may need to “tweak” the bends in the wires to
get the assembled landing gear system to fit properly.
❏❏9. Time to glue the landing wires into the fuselage.
Remove the top brace wire and then carefully remove the
remainder of the landing gear assembly as a unit. Mix some
6-minute epoxy and put some into the three holes in the
fuselage. Insert the landing gear assembly and the top
brace wire back into the fuselage holes. After the epoxy has
hardened, mix a small amount of epoxy and fill the holes in
the fuselage. Be careful not to use an excessive amount of
epoxy as it could run inside the fuselage and add excess
weight to the model.
❏10. Return to step 1 and install the landing gear to the left
side of the fuselage.
13

❏1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to clean the
motor shaft on the motor that you will use. Roughen the
shaft with 320-grit sandpaper so glue will adhere.
❏2. Without using tools, use your fingers to press the motor
all the way into the gearbox. Spin the shaft on the gearbox.
If there is resistance and the shaft does not spin freely, back
the motor out of the gearbox just enough to allow the shaft
to spin freely. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the motor.
This is how far the motor is to be installed after the pinion
gear is mounted.
❏3. Remove the motor from the gearbox.
❏4. The pinion gear fits onto the motor shaft easier one
way than it does the other. Using only your fingers (no
tools), determine which way is the easiest by test-fitting the
gear onto the shaft. The “easy way” is the way the gear goes
on and is to be permanently installed.
❏5. Remove the pinion gear from the motor. Add a small
drop of the cement included with this kit to the hole in the
end of the gear that fits onto the shaft. Install the gear onto
the shaft. The end of the gear should be even with the end
of the motor shaft.
❏6. Use a toothpick to apply a small dab of lubricating oil
to both ends of the motor shaft where it exits the motor. Do
not apply oil directly from the container because you may
apply too much.
❏7. Reinstall the motor into the gearbox up to the line you
marked. If the motor does not fit tightly in the gearbox, use
a drop of CA to hold it in position. Fit the prop adapter to the
gearbox. Insert the appropriate nylon spacer ring into the
prop, then test fit the prop to the gearbox (be certain to use
the prop washer). If necessary, use a hobby knife to enlarge
the hole in the nylon spacer ring so it will fit onto the prop
adapter.
❏8. Tighten the prop nut with an 8mm wrench. If
necessary, use a pliers to hold the drive washer while
tightening the prop nut. Wrap the drive washer with a cloth
to keep the pliers from marring it.
❏9. Spin the propeller by hand. It should spin somewhat
freely, but due to the resistance of the motor and gear drive,
the propeller should not “coast” or freewheel indefinitely. If
there is much resistance, back the motor out of the gearbox
until the propeller spins as it should.
❏10. Remove the propeller from the gearbox. Position the
motor and gearbox on the firewall. Using the holes in the
mounting tabs on the gearbox as a guide, drill three 1/16”
holes through the firewall for the mounting screws. Mount
the gearbox to the firewall with three wood screws.
Mount the Motor
14

❏11. Put a mark at the top of the molded plastic cowl.The
center section of the cowl has a line which points to the top.
Note that this is aligned with the indentation for the top
cylinder. Trim the excess material from the aft edge of the
cowl. Cut a hole in the front of the cowl for the gearbox.
❏12. Carefully cut the molded cylinder heads from the plastic
sheet. Lightly sand the edges flat and smooth with some 120-
grit sandpaper placed flat on your worktable. Glue two of the
cylinder heads together to form a cylinder head assembly. This
is easiest to do if you hold the assembly as shown in the photo
while gluing the center section together first with CA. After the
CA has cured, hold the assembly in the center and glue the
rippled ends together.
❏13. Carefully cut this assembly in half to obtain two
cylinders. Do this for the remaining cylinder heads to obtain
nine complete cylinders.
❏14. Glue all nine cylinders to the cowl with medium CA.
❏15. Carefully cut the molded plastic spinner and spinner
base from the plastic sheets. Make the cutouts for the prop in
the spinner. Do this a bit at a time, until the propeller fits nicely
into the spinner.
❏16. Glue the 1/32” ply spinner former (6) inside the
plastic spinner base with medium CA. Using the dimple in
the molded plastic spinner as a guide, carefully drill a 7/32”
[5.6mm] hole in the center of the assembly.
❏17. Center the cowl on the prop shaft adapter. Drill a
1/16” [1.6mm] hole through the cowl into the balsa nose
formers for each screw. Mount the cowl to the fuselage with
three wood screws. This photo shows the finished cowl
mounted to the completed model. Refer also to the photo at
step 18.
15

❏18. Install the spinner base assembly on the gearbox
adapter prop shaft, then mount the prop, prop washer and
prop nut. Position the adapter so that there is 1/16” [1.6mm]
between the spinner base and cowl. Tighten the prop nut
securely. Install the spinner on the spinner base and secure
it with medium CA. Use only a very small drop of CA on
each side of the spinner so that it can be easily removed if
you need to change the prop.
❏1. Glue the 1/64” plywood wing braces (7) into the
indentations on the bottom of the wing.
❏2. Position the battery holder in the fuselage and notice
the position and angle that it will be in when installed. DO
NOT glue into place until later.
❏3. Cut an opening in the top of the wing for the battery
holder. Use the mold lines as a guide. Cut the front and rear
of the opening at an angle to match the angle of the battery
holder when it is mounted in the fuselage. Trial fit the battery
holder in the opening.
❏4. With the battery holder in position in the fuselage, trial
fit the wing to the fuselage, centered on the fuselage. Trim
the opening in the wing as needed to fit the battery holder.
Press the wing firmly onto the fuselage, making sure it is
firmly resting on the top of the fuselage. (Look from below
the wing to be sure). Mark the top of the battery holder
where it meets the wing.
❏5. Remove the wing and battery holder from the fuselage.
Remove the battery holder cover, then trim the battery holder
at the marks you made. Reinstall the battery holder and wing
on the fuselage and insure that the battery holder is flush with
the top of the wing. Make any adjustments needed.
Assemble the Wing
16

❏6. Remove the wing and battery holder and install the
battery holder cover on the battery holder. Trim the spacer on
the cover so that it is flush with the top of the battery holder.
Before the wing can be glued into place the receiver and
speed controller must be installed. In addition, you should
glue the fairings to the landing gear at this time.
❏7. Using the patterns on page 24 as a guide, cut the
landing gear fairings from the grooved 1/8” x 1/4” [3.2 x
6.4mm] balsa stick. Cut one end of each fairing strip to the
angle on the pattern, but verify that the length is correct
before cutting the strip to length. Glue the fairing strips to
the landing gear wires with medium CA being careful not to
let any CA to drip onto the fuselage. Note that we used a
panel line pen to outline the door and window.
❏8. Plug the servos and ESC into the receiver and install it in
the model. Double sided tape works well to hold the receiver in
place. Use double sided tape to also hold the ESC to the
fuselage side. Plug the motor into the ESC. Drill a hole in the
top of the fuselage aft of the wing and route the receiver
antenna through the hole. Use a cut off servo arm to make a
strain relief for where the antenna exits the fuselage.
❏9. Position the battery holder in the fuselage. Glue it in
place with some medium CA. Do not glue it too solidly in
place as you will have to remove it if you need to access the
receiver or servos later.
❏10. Measure and mark the center of the wing at the
leading and trailing edges. Position the wing on the fuselage
using the marks to center the wing.
17

❏11. Push a pin into the stab in front of the fin. Use a tape
measure or string to measure from the pin to one wing tip,
then check the distance from the pin to the other wing tip.
Adjust the wing as needed until both distances are equal.
❏12. While holding the wing to the fuselage in this position
view the model from the front. Make sure that the wing is
aligned parallel with the stab. If it is not, lightly sand the high
side of the fuselage until the wing and stab are parallel.
❏13. Glue the wing to the fuselage with 6-minute epoxy.
Hold the wing firmly in place until the epoxy has hardened.
❏14. Use tape to assemble the die-cut cardboard jigs
supplied with the model. These jigs are used to establish the
correct dihedral and washout angles for the wing. There is a
small square marking the wing leading edge of each jig that
is not visible in the photo.
❏15. Place the model upside down in the jigs. Make sure
that the leading edges of the jigs are at the leading edge of
the wing.
❏16. Cut the wing struts from the 1/8” balsa wing strut
material. Make sure the model is firmly resting on the jigs as
you measure and cut each strut. Cut slots in the fuselage for
the rear struts at the molded marks. Use 6-minute epoxy to
glue the struts in place.
18

❏1. Paint the inside of the battery holder black where it is
visible on the top of the wing. Glue the clear plastic window to
the inside of the 1/64” [0.4] battery hatch window frame.Glue
the window frame to the spacer on the top of the battery hatch.
Roughen the plastic for a better bond.
❏2. Carefully cut the wheel hub caps from the plastic sheet.
Glue one hub to the wheel. Drill a 1/16” [1.6mm] hole through
the wheel axle hole into the hub cap. Glue another hub cap to
the other side of the wheel. Drill a hole through this hub cap as
well. Make the second wheel in the same manner.
❏3. Cut two 1/8” [3.2mm] long retainers from the small
white plastic tube. Mount the wheels to the landing gear with
a retainer. Using care not to get any glue on the wheels,
secure the retainers to the landing gear with a very small
drop of medium CA.
❏4. Cut the self stick decals from the sheet and apply them to
the model. Use the above photo and the box cover as a guide.
❏5. Cut the 1/8” x 5/16” x 4-3/8” [3.2 x 8 x 111mm] balsa
stick to a length of 3” [76.2mm] to make a tailskid. Cut a slot
in the bottom rear of the fuselage as shown and glue the
tailskid in place with epoxy. Put some epoxy on the end of
the tailskid that is inserted into the fuselage so that it will be
glued to the top of the fuselage as well.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
19

IMPORTANT: Whenever connecting the battery always hold
onto the fuselage in case the motor accidentally comes on
and the propeller turns.
❏1. Turn on the transmitter and connect the battery to the
speed control in the model. Be certain the rudder, elevator
and motor respond as shown in the chart. If required, use
the reversing function in the transmitter to reverse any
controls necessary so they respond correctly.
❏2. Use the ATV function in the transmitter or adjust the
position of the pushrods on the servo arms or the control
horns on the elevator and rudder to get the control surface
throws shown in the chart that follows. The throws are
measured at the widest part of the control surface.
❏To increase the control surface throw, move the pushrod
to the hole that is closer-in on the control horn on the control
surface, or move the pushrod to the hole that is farther out
on the servo arm. To decrease the control surface throw, do
the opposite.
IMPORTANT: The C.G. (center of gravity), or balance point
has the greatest effect on how a model flies. Do not overlook
this important procedure. Modelers who do so often find that
the airplane is difficult to control, or out of control after it is
too late. Preserve your model and insure that the first flight
won’t be the last by balancing the model according to the
following instructions.
The C.G. (center of gravity) must be checked when the
model is ready to fly with the propeller and battery installed.
❏1. Use a felt-tip pen or narrow strips of tape to mark the
balance point on the bottom of the wing 1-5/8” [41.3mm]
rearward from the leading edge of the wing on both sides of
the fuselage.
Balance the Model (C.G.)
Set up the Spirit of St. Louis so it has the following
control surface throws:
ELEVATOR: 5/8” up 5/8” down
[15.9mm] [15.9mm]
RUDDER: 1-1/4” right 1-1/4” left
[31.8mm] [31.8mm]
Second to the C.G., the control throws have the greatest
effect on the way a model flies. Set the throws as close to
these settings as possible. If you have too much control
throw the model may respond too quickly. If you do not have
enough throw you may not be able to maneuver the model
or have enough control to land it when the motor is off.
MOTOR TURNS
RUDDER MOVES RIGHT
ELEVATOR MOVES UP
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
RADIO SETUP
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
TRANSMITTER
4-CHANNEL
NOTE: Unless you are specifically checking the operation
of the motor, for safety remove the propeller from the
model while setting it up on your workbench.
Set the Control Throws
PREPARE FOR FLYING
20