GREAT PLANES Spirit GPMA0530 User manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK
PLEASE READTHROUGHTHISINSTRUCTION BOOKLETIN ITS ENTIRETY BEFOREBEGINNING
ASSEMBLY. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily
harm and property
damage. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE - to build
this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and to test the model and fly it only with
experienced, competent help in accordance with all safety standards and common sense as set
down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA
to become properly insured before you attempt to fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST START-
ING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP OR WRITE TO THE
ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN
YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
1-800-435-9262
P.O. BOX 788 URBANA, ILLINOIS 61801 217398-8970

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ............. 3
Precautions .................. 3
Other Items Required .......... 3
Supplies and Tools Needed ...... 3
Die Patterns ................. 4
Abbreviations
................ 5
Types of Wood ............... 5
Decisions you must make now ... 5
Get Ready to Build
............ 5
TAIL FEATHERS ............. 6
Build the Fin and Rudder ....... 6
Build the Stabilizer and Elevator . 7
Cut the Hinge Slots
........... 8
WING ASSEMBLY ............ 9
Build the Inner Wing Panel ...... 9
Build the Outer Wing Panel ..... 12
Join the Wing Panels
.......... 14
Final Wing Assembly ..........15
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
....... 19
Assemble Fuselage Sides .......19
Frame-up the Fuselage
......... 20
Assemble the Canopy .......... 23
FINAL ASSEMBLY
............ 25
Balance the Airplane Laterally ... 25
Final Sanding
................ 25
Covering....................25
Checking for Warps
........... 26
Glue the Hinges .............. 26
Mount the Tail Surfaces ........ 27
Assemble Pushrods
........... 27
Install Radio Gear
............. 28
Control Throws
............... 29
Install the Spoilers in the Wing ... 29
Balance the Model
............ 29
Final Hookups and Checks
...... 30
PRE-FLIGHT .................31
Charge the Batteries ........... 31
Find a Safe Place to Fly ........ 31
Range Check
Your Radio ....... 31
InstalltheWings ..............31
AMA Safety Code ..............31
General ..................... 31
Radio Control ................ 31
FLYING ......................32
Trim Flights ................. 32
Your First Hi-Start Launch ...... 32
First Flights
.................. 33
THERMAL FLYING ...........33
Facts About Thermals .......... 33
Thermal Soaring .............. 34
Pointers for Contest
Flying ...... 35
SLOPE SOARING ............. 35
Flying ......................35
SlopeLandings ...............36
POWEREDLAUNCHING ......36
BALLASTING ................36
BUILDINGNOTES ............36
PARTS LIST .................. 37
CONTEST PRACTICE CHART .. 39
2-VIEW DRAWING ............40
Pleaseinspectallpartscarefullybeforestartingtobuild! Ifanypartsaremissing,brokenordefective,orifyou
haveanyquestions aboutbuildingorflyingthis airplane,pleasecallorwriteusattheaddressbelowandwewill
begladtohelp. Ifyouarecallingforreplacementparts,pleaselookupthepartnumbersandthekitidentification
number (stamped on the end of the kit box) and have them ready when calling. Thank you.
Great Planes Model Mfg., Inc.
P.O. Box 788
Urbana, IL 61801 [phone]
P.O.BOX 788 URBANA, ILLINOIS 61801 217398-8970
2

INTRODUCTION
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Congratulations! You are about to enter the exciting
world ofsilent flight. Soaring offers a freedom that no other
type of flying can offer! It is your knowledge and your
SPIRIT'S flying abilities in a fight against gravity. With a
little practice and some help from mother nature you will be
able to defeatgravity and enjoy flights that can last for hours
and cover many miles at incredible altitudes.
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes SPIRIT
sailplane. It has been designed to give you many hours of
relaxing flying, and has also been engineered to provide a
truly enjoyable building experience.
PRECAUTIONS
1. You must build the plane according to the plans
and instructions. Do not alter or modifythe model as doing
somayresultinanunsafeorun-flyablemodel. Inafewcases
theplansandinstructionsmaydifferslightly from thephotos.
In those instances you should assume the plans and written
instructions are correct.
2. Youmusttaketimetobuildstraight,trueand strong.
3. You mustuse aproper R/C radio that is in firstclass
condition.
4. You mustproperly install all R/C and other compo-
nents so that the model operates properly on the ground and
in the air.
5. You musttest the operation ofthe modelbefore the first
and each successive flight to insure that all equipment is
operating, and you must make certain that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check the nylon
clevises often, and replace if they show signs of wear.
6. You must fly the model only with the competent
help ofa well experienced R/C pilot ifyou are not already an
experienced and knowledgeable R/C pilot at this time.
Note: We, as thekitmanufacturer, canprovide you
with a top quality kit and great instructions, but
ultimately the quality and "fly-ability" of your
finished model depends on how you build it; there-
fore, we cannot in any way guarantee the perform-
ance of your completed model, and no representa-
tions are expressedor implied as to the performance
or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow direc-
tions to end up with a well-built model that is
straight and true.
Radio having at least 2 channels (a third channel is
required for optional spoilers)
Iron-on Covering Material (2 rolls)
Latex Foam Rubber Padding (1/4" thick)
#64 Rubber Bands
Hi-start or other Launching Device
BB's or Lead Shot for Balancing
The Optional Spoilers Also Require:
1 - 3/16" x 1/4" x 36" Balsa Stick
2 - 30" Lengths of Braided Fishing Line
2 - 30" Lengths of 1/8" Plastic Tubing
The Optional Bolt-On Wing Also Requires:
1 - Small Sheet of 1/4" Birch Plywood
1 - Small Piece of 1/16" Birch Plywood
SUPPLIES AND TOOLS NEEDED
2 oz. Thin CA Adhesive
2 oz. Medium or Thick CA Adhesive
2.5 oz. 5-Minute Epoxy
Hand or Electric Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16", 5/64", 1/8", 9/64" (13/64" and 17/64"
for Wing Bolt Option)
Sealing Iron
HeatGun
Razor Saw
Hobby Knife, #11 Blades
Pliers
Screw Drivers
T-Pins
Assorted Rubber Bands
Straightedge
Masking Tape
CellophaneTape
VinylTape
Sandpaper (coarse, medium, fine grit)*
T-Bar Sanding Block (or similar)
Waxed Paper
LightweightBalsaFiller
1/4-20 Tap, Tap Wrench (for bolt on wing option)
Dremel Moto Tool or Similar (optional)
*NOTE: On our workbench, we have four 11" T-
Bar sanders, equipped with #50, #80, #100 and
#150-grit sandpaper. This setup is all that is re-
quired for almost any sanding task. We also keep
some #320-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper handy for
finish sanding before covering.
3

DIE PATTERNS
Do not punch out die-cut parts until ready to use!
SPRTFO1
2 PER KIT
SPRTF06
1 PER KIT
BALSA 3/32" X 3-1/4" X 38-1/2"
SPRTF02 2 PER KIT
REAR FUSELAGE DOUBLER
FRONT FUSELAGE DOUBLER
BALSA 1/8" X 3" X 9-7/8"
SPRTW07
BALSA 3/32" X 3-1/4" X 24"
2 PER KIT
SPRTF03
I PER KIT
BALSA 1/16" X 3" X 15"
SPRTF05 1PER KIT
PLY 1/8" X 4" X 11-7/8"
SPRTS01
1 PER KIT
BALSA 3/16" x 3" x 9-7/8
SPRTW08
I PER KIT
PLY 1/8" X 3-7/8" X 11-7/8
SPRTW05
1 PER KIT
PLY 1/16" X 3-3/8" X 11-7/8
PLY 1/8" X 3" X 19"
SPRTF04
I PER KIT
BALSA 3/32" X 4" X 21"
SPRTW02
2 PER KIT
BALSA 1/16" X 3" X 23-7/8"
SPRTW03
2 PER KIT
BALSA 1/16" X 3" X 23-7/8"
SPRTW01
I PER KIT
SPRTW04 1PER KIT
BALSA 1/8" X 3" X 23-7/8"
SPRTW06 I PER KIT
PLY 1/8" X 3-3/4 X 10-1/2"
PLY 1/32" X 3-1/4" X 9-3/4'
4

COMMONABBREVIATIONSUSEDIN
THIS BOOK AND ON THE PLANS: TYPES OF WOOD
Elev
Fuse
LE
Lt
Ply
Rt
Stab
TE
= Elevator
= Fuselage
= Leading Edge (front)
Left
= Plywood
= Right
= Stabilizer
= Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches
BALSA
BASSWOOD PLYWOOD
DECISIONS YOU MUST
MAKE NOW
WING CONFIGURATION
The SPIRITkithas three differentwingoptions: a
two-piece rubberband on wing, aone-piecebolton wing
ora one-piece rubberbandon wing. The two-piece wing
is the easiest version to build and is recommended for
beginners. Someexperienced sailplanepilots mayprefer
theone-pieceboltonwing,butthelargewingcanpresent
transportion problems in todays small cars. The one-
piece rubber band wing would be the nextbest choice for
beginners.
SPOILERS
The SPIRIT can be built either with or without
spoilers. Spoilers act as airbrakes and make it easier for
experienced pilots to precisely land on target during
contests. They can also be helpful in losing altitude
quickly. Due to the added complexity encountered when
installing spoilers, they are NOT recommended for first
time builders. If you are a beginner and may eventually
want spoilers, install just the spoiler tubing now and the
rest of the spoiler pans can be installed when you are
ready.
GET READY TO BUILD
NOTE: It will be helpful to build on a piece of
"Celotex", or other semi-soft (and flat) surface,
into which you may easily stick pins to firmly hold
down the parts while building and to avoid warps.
1. Unroll the plan sheet. Re-roll the plan inside out and let
it uncurl while you read through this instruction book. This
will help the plan lay flat and get you acquainted with the
building process. NOTE: Because there are several op-
tions to consider when building the SPIRIT, you should
read the instruction book through before building and
then go back and cross offthe steps you won't use to build
your model.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figureout the
name ofeach partby comparing it with the plans and the parts
list at the back of this book. Write the part name or size on
each piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns
shown on page4 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them.
If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out during
construction, do not force them! Instead, firstcut around the
parts witha hobbyknife. Afterpunching outthedie-cutparts,
use your T-Bar or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities.
INSTRUCTIONS IN BOXES LIKE THIS
ARE VERY IMPORTANT AND SHOULD
BE FOLLOWED CAREFULLY
5

"TAIL FEATHERS"
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
You'll need the following parts:
SPRTS02 3/16" x 3/8" x 30" Balsa Stick
SPRTS03 1/8" x 3/16" x 30" Balsa Stick
SPRTS01 3/16" Die-Cut Tail Parts
SPRTF08 3/16" Balsa Triangle
D 1. Tape or pin the plan down to yourflatwork surface.
Tape a piece of waxed paper over the fin and rudder portion
of the plan (so you don't glue the parts to the plan).
D 4. Remove the fin and rudderassembliesfrom the plan
and examine them for any open or badjoints. Fill any gaps
with thick CA, then use your sanding block with medium grit
sandpaper to sand both sides of the framework smooth.
D 2. Using the plan as a guide, cut pieces of 3/16" x 3/8"
balsa (from the 30" sticks, SPRTS02) to make the Rudder
and Fin Framework. NOTE: Cut the Fin L.E., the Rudder
L.E. and the RudderT.E. from a single SPRTS02 (This will
leave enough long pieces for the stab). Punch outthe die-cut
Fin Tip, Rudder Tip, Fin Base and Rudder Base from
SPRTS01. Sand the edges ifnecessary and pin them in place
on the plan and glue the parts together using thin CA glue.
NOTE: Do not glue the fin to the rudder!
D 3. From the 1/8" x 3/16" x 30" sticks (SPRTS03), cut
the diagonal "ribs" to fit between the rudder and fin frame-
work, and glue them in place. NOTE: It is not necessary to
get these ribs in the exact position shown on the plan.
D 5. Cut two 4-1/8" lengths of 3/16" Balsa Triangle
from SPRTF08 and glue them along the bottom of the fin.
The bottom edges of the triangle should be flush with the
bottom of the fin.
D 6. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of
the rudder and fin (this will help to maintain symmetry when
sanding).
D 7. Using a sanding block and coarse (50 or 80-grit)
sandpaper, sand the leading edgeofthe ruddertothe V-shape
as shown on the plans (a small razor plane works great for
initialshaping). Sand the three remainingedges to asmooth
rounded shape. Sand the top and the leading edge of the fin
to a nice rounded shape*. NOTE: The trailing edge of the
6

D 1. Tape waxed paper over the stabilizer drawing on the
plan. In the same manner as the rudder, cut the 3/16" x 3/8"
balsa pieces and using the die-cut Stab Tips, Stab Center
and Stab Brace from SPRTS01, assemble the stab frame-
work using thin CA glue.
FIN must remain square, do not sand it! Sand the triangle
stock to blend with the leading and trailing edges of the fin.
Also, cutor sand the bottom ofthe triangle stock to match the
contour of the 3/16" die-cut fin bottom.
*MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE TIP - Sand both sides of
the rudder to a taper as shown on the plans. This requires a
littlemoreworkbutwill helptoreducedragandthusincrease
performance of the sailplane.
D 2. Cut the 1/8" x 3/16" "ribs" to length and glue them
in place.
D 3. Pin or tape the elevator (SPRTS04) in place behind
the stab anduse yourrazor saw to cutthe endsoffto match the
stab.
BUILD THE STABILIZERAND ELEVATOR
You'll need the following parts:
SPRTS02 3/16" x 3/8" x 30" Balsa Sticks
SPRTS03 1/8" x 3/16" x 30" Balsa Sticks
SPRTS01 3/16" Die-Cut Tail Parts
SPRTS04 Tapered Elevator
D 4. Remove the stab from the plan and examine it for
anyopen orbadjoints. Fill any gaps with thickCA, then use
yoursandingblock with mediumgritsandpaperto sandboth
sides smooth. Draw a centerline around the stab edges.
D 5. Tape the elevator to the stab using masking tape and
sand the leading edge ofthe stab, the stab tips and the elevator
tips to a smooth rounded shape. The tips of the elevator
should blend in nicely with the stab lips.
7

D 6. Remove the elevatorand draw a center line down its
leading edge. Use your sanding block to sand the same V-
shape as you did on the rudder. The trailing edge should also
be sanded to a smooth rounded shape.
D 2. Draw accurate centerlines down the trailing edge of
the stab and the fin. Cut the hinge slots on these lines using
a hobby knife or a slotting fork and slotting hook. (The
recommended hinge slotting technique is listed below).
CUT THE HINGE SLOTS (Do not glue)
NOTE: One-piece molded polypropylene hinges
are supplied in this kit. If you choose to use these
hinges or the "pinned"-type hinges, you may cut
the hinge slots at this time. However, if you choose
to use the one-piece hinges that are paper covered
for CA glue installation, you may wait until after
covering before cutting the hinge slots.
D 1. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark
the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE and
transfer the marks over to the fin. Place the elevator against
the stab TE and transfer the marks over to the stab.
CAUTION!!!: You must useextreme carewhen
cutting hinge slots with a hobby knife, to avoid
cutting yourself! Ifthe balsa partbreaks while you
are pushing on the knife, the blade could go into
your handbefore you knowit! A good precaution is
towear leather gloves while performing the follow-
ing steps.
A. Beginbycarefullycuttingaveryshallowslitat
the hinge location. This firstcut is toestablish yourcut
in the right place, so concentrate on staying on the
centerline and don't cut too deep!
B. Make three or four more cuts in the same line,
going slightly deeper each time. As you make these
additional cuts, work on going straight into the wood.
Continue this process while "wiggling" the knife
handleforwardandbackwarduntilthebladehasreached
the proper depth for the hinge.
C. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is
difficult to push in, re-insert the knifeand move itback
and forth in the slot a few times to enlarge the slot.
D 3. IMPORTANT! Condition or "break-in" the
hinges by folding them back and forth several times.
D 4. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the rudder
and elevator in place on the fin and stab. Do not glue the
hinges until after you have covered the model.
8

WING ASSEMBLY
D 4. Carefully punch out all the die-cut 1/16" Balsa W2
and W2SWing Ribs. Sand the edges slightlytoremoveany
die-cutting irregularities.
BUILD THE INNER WING PANELS
You'll need the following parts:
SPRTW01 1/8" Die-Cut BalsaWing Ribs
SPRTW02 1/16" Die-Cut BalsaWing Ribs, W2, W2S
SPRTW03 1/16" Die-Cut BalsaWing Ribs, W2,W4-W10
SPRTW04 1/8" Die-Cut Plywood Dihedral Braces
SPRTW07 1/16" Die-Cut Balsa ShearWebs
SPRTW08 1/8" Die-CutPlywood Clamps and Gauges
SPRTW10 Shaped Balsa Leading Edge
SPRTW11 Shaped, Notched BalsaInner TrailingEdge
SPRTW13 1/8" x 5/16" x 23-1/2" Basswood Spars
SPRTW17 1/16" x 3" x 24" Balsa Wing Sheeting
NOTE: Follow step 5 below through step7 onpage
15 to build the LEFT wing panel, then repeat these
steps to build the RIGHT wing panel.
DD 5. Pin one of the notched balsa Inner Trailing
Edges (SPRTW11) to the plan lining up the notches in theTE
with the notches on the the plan.
DD 6. Place oneofthe 1/8" x 5/16" x 23-1/2" Basswood
Inner Spars (SPRTW13) on the wing plan and pin the spar
down with crossed T-pins as shown in the following sketch.
NOTE: The spars may be cut slightly oversize, the excess
will be cut off later.
NOTE: The wing is designed to be built as a two-
piece wing; however, we also describe how to build
a one-piece wing which can be either held on with
rubber bands or 1/4 - 20 nylon wing bolts (not
included).
D 1. Tape the plan to your flat work surface, and cover
the wing drawing with waxed paper. NOTE: If your work
space is limited, you may cut the wing drawings apart from
the rest of the plans.
D 2. The Shaped Wing Leading Edges (SPRTW10) are
fastened together by thin strips of balsa. Separate them by
carefully cutting between the LE'S. Sand away the excess
balsa that remains along the edges after cutting them apart,
using a sanding block with 100-grit sandpaper.
D 3. Before using the 1/8" x 5/16" x 23-1/2" Basswood
Spars (SPRTW13), examine them carefully for possible
imperfections. Look for knots, soft spots, diagonal grain and
any other imperfections. Ifpossible, position each spar so the
imperfections are on the outer half of the wing panel (toward
the tip), where they willbeleast affectedby high stress. Ifthe
spars are warped slightly, "balance them out" by installing
the warped spars in opposite directions (see sketch).
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
STRAIGHT WING
TWO WARPED SPARS INSTALLED
THIS WAY WILL RESULT IN A
WARPED WING
T-Pins
Work Surface
Spar
DD 7. Place the seven W-2 ribs (from SPRTW02 and
SPRTW03) and the two W-2S ribs (from SPRTW02) on the
spar in their approximate positions, work the ribs into the
notches on the trailing edge but do not glue anything yet.
DD 8. Punch out the two Rib Gauge Pieces from the
1/8" die-cut plywood sheet (SPRTW08) and assemble them
using CA. Notice that one end ofthe gauge is slanted at a 5
degree angle forpositioning the end ribs. The other 3 ends are
perpendicular and can be used to keep parts 90 degrees to the
work surface.
9

edges are NOT symmetrical. Refer to one of the section
views on the plans to determine which way they should be
installed. Carefully hold the leading edge againstone ofthe
end W-2ribs andnote thatitiswiderthan the frontoftherib.
Thisisbecause the 1/16" balsaleadingedge top sheeting will
be added later. Align the lower surface of the leading edge
with the bottom of the rib and glue it in place with a drop of
thinCA. Liftuptheotherendoftheleadingedge,alignitwith
the bottom ofthe opposite end W-2 and glue it with adrop of
thinCA. Godown the lineand gluetheremainingribstothe
leading edge one at a time so you can make sure they are
aligned.
DD 9. Make sure theribs areproperly positioned accord-
ing to the plans and glue them in place using thick CA at the
sparjointand a drop ofthin CA atthe trailing edge joint. Use
the square end of the rib gauge to keep the ribs perpendicular
to the work surface. NOTE: if you are installing spoilers,
cut out the embossed area on the two W2S ribs and make
sure you install these ribs in the proper locations.
1/16" sheeting will
be added later
-Bottom of rib should
be flush with bottom
of leading edge.
DD 10. Trial fit the top 1/8" x 5/16" x 23-1/2" Basswood
Inner Spar (SPRTW13) into the notches in the ribs by
carefully pushing the sparcompletely down into the notches.
Make sure the lop spar is lined up lengthwisewiththe bottom
spar. Remove the spar and glue it in place by applying thick
CA to the notches before the spar is put back in place.
DD 11. Position a Pre-shaped Leading Edge
(SPRTW10) in place over the plans. NOTE: These leading 10
DD 12. Locate the 1/16" Balsa Die-Cut Shear Web
Sheet (SPRTW07) and notice that all of the shear webs are
not the same. The webs between the number 2's are for use
on theinnerpanel. The webs between the2 and the 10 are for
theouterpaneland eachoneoftheseisadifferentsize sokeep
them in the sheet until they are ready to be used. Punch out
all of the "2" shear webs.
DD 13. Trial fit one of the webs in place between the first
two W-2ribs. You may haveto sanditslightly togetit to fit.
Glue the shear web in place on the back of the spars using
thick CA. The webs should be centered (up and down)
between the spars. It is important todo a goodjob of gluing
these in place as they are responsible for most of the wing's
strength. C-2 Clamps from the 1/8" Die-Cut Plywood Sheet
SPRTW08 can be used to help hold the webs in place while
the glue cures.
DD 14. Install the remaining balsa shear webs. Note that
the webs are only installed between the ribs already glued in
place. Three webs are also installed on the front of the spars

in the first three rib "bays". NOTE: if you are installing
spoilers in the wing or may add them in the future, install
the web between the two W2S ribs on the FRONT of the
spars to make room for the spoiler horn.
IF YOU ARE BUILDING A ONE-PIECE
WING, SKIP AHEAD TO "BUILD THE
OUTER WING PANEL" ONPAGE 12. STEPS
15THROUGH22ARE FOR A 2-PIECE WING
ONLY.
DD 15. Locate the 1/8" die-cut sheet (SPRTW04) that
contains the Dihedral Braces, the Leading Edge Brace and
the Wing Joiner Lamination. Line a ruler up with the two
embossed cut marks and draw a line across both of the
dihedral braces.
DD 16. Punch out the two dihedral braces and cut them in
half with a razor saw along the lines you just drew. Note:
these braces are supplied in one piece for the bolt on wing
option. Also punchoutthe wing joiner lamination from that
sheetand set it aside for the next step. The leading edge brace
is not used in a two-piece wing.
DD 17. Punch out the three C1 clamps from the 1/8" die-
cut plywood sheet (SPRTW08). Test fit two of the dihedral
brace "halves" to the "root" (inner) end of the inner panel
spars. One brace should be installed on the front ofthe spars
andtheotheron theback. Theedgethatyou cutwith the razor
saw should be near theend ofthe spars and it shouldbeplaced
so thatitslants in at the top (towards the middleofthe wing).
Use the C1 clamps to hold the braces in place and test fit the
wingjoiner lamination into the box formed. This "box" will
be referred to as the "joiner box". The wing joiner lamina-
tion is used to make surethe spars remain the correct distance
apart. (See photo at the top of the next column.)
DD 18. Remove the clamps and apply a bead of epoxy
along the spar edges (thick CA will also work but be very
careful to get things aligned properly before the glue cures).
Install the braces and hold in place with the C1 clamps. A
good gluejointis importanthere but be careful not to get any
excess glue insidethebox formed by these braces or the wing
joiner will not fit inside. Also test the size of the joiner box
with thejoinerlaminationwhiletheglueiscuring.
DD 19. Tightly wrap the joiner box with a strong thin
thread and then soak it with thin C/A. This will add a lot of
strength to thejoinerbox. Do not overlap the thread or allow
it to build up too thick.
DD 20. Locate one of the 1/16" x 3" x 30" Balsa Sheets
(SPRTW17) and cut it into 6pieces 2-3/8" long. Slideoneof
thesheetsinplaceinfrontofthejoinerboxandtrimtofit. Use
anothersheettoshimupthefrontedge(Seesketchnextpage).
Glue it in place with thick CA.
11

Shaped
balsa LE
1/16" balsa
bottom sheet
DD 20. Glue anotherpiece to the rearofthejoiner box and
then cut a third piece to fit behind the second and glue it in
place.
DD 2I.Punch outthree W1A ribs and three W1B ribs from
the l/8"die-cut balsarib sheet(SPRTW01).Test fit these ribs
intoposition. A littlesanding may be necessary to makethem
fit properly. Glue these ribs into place using thick CA. The
end rib should be tilted in at the top using the slanted end of
the rib gauge to give it the correct angle.
DD 22. Cut and sand the leading edges, trailing edges and
spars to their correct length. Lay the panel over the plans to
determine the correct lengths.
DD 1. Lay one of the Outer Trailing Edges
(SPRTW12) in placeover theplan andcutitto lengthjustpast
the lastnotch. Align the notches in the trailingedgewith the
notches on the plans and pin it in position. NOTE: The un-
notched end ofthis trailing edge will be used later ifyou
are installing spoilers.
DD 2. "Cross pin" one of the 1/8" x 5/16" x 15-1/8"
Basswood Outer Spars (SPRTW14) in place.
DD 3. Punch out the 1/16" (W4-W10) Tip Ribs out of
one of the SPRTW03 die-cut sheets. Glue the ribs in place
with a thick CA at the sparjointand a drop of thin CA at the
trailing edge joint. Use the rib gauge to keep the ribs
perpendicular.
DD 4. Trial fitthe top 1/8" x 5/16" x 15-1/8" Basswood
Outer Spar in place by carefully pressing the spar into the
notches until it is flush with the top of the ribs. Remove the
spar and apply thick CA to the notches. Replace the spar and
allow the glue to cure.
Spars
Work Surface
1/16"
balsa
scrap
BUILD THE OUTER WING PANEL
You'll need the following parts:
SPRTW03 1/16" Die-CutBalsaWing Ribs W4 -W10
SPRTW07 1/16" Die-Cut Balsa Shear Webs
SPRTW10 ShapedBalsaLeadingEdge
SPRTW12 Shaped,NotchedBalsaOuterTrailingEdge
SPRTW14 1/8" x5/16" x 15-1/8" BasswoodOuterSpars
SPRTW15 7/8" Shaped Balsa Wing Tip Block 12
DD 5. Lay one of the remaining Pre-Shaped Leading
Edges over the LEADING EDGE TEMPLATE at the top
right comer of the plans. Use this drawing as a reference to
cut the leading edge to length and to cut the reliefnotches. It
is a good idea to cut the leading edge approximately 1/4"
longer on both ends to be on the safe side. It can be cut to
the correct length after it is installed. The relief notches do
notneed to goall the way throughthe leadingedgebutshould
go within 1/8" of doing so. NOTE: You must make a
"Right" and a "Left" L.E.

DD 6. Carefully bend the leading edge to the angle
shown on the plans and position it against the ribs. The bends
should be atribs W6and W9. Align the leading edgewith the
top and bottom edges of the ribs and glue it in place starting
at ribs W6 and W9.
DD 7. Locate the remaining 1/16" Die-Cut Shear Webs
from sheet (SPRTW07). NOTE: These remaining shear
webs are actually tapered to match the taper ofthe wing.
DD 8. Punch out the remaining 6 shear webs and lay
them end to end so that the end ofone web is the same size as
theendofthe onenext to itas shown in thesketch below. This
is the order and direction they will be installed in the wing.
The thinnest web goes between ribs W9 & W10 and the
thickest web goes between ribs W4 & W5.
NOTE TAPER OF WEBS
W9-WIO W8-W9 W7-W8 W6-W7 W5-W6 W4-W5
DD 9. Glue the webs into their respective places using
thick CA. The thinnestend ofeach web goes towards the tip
of the panel. The C-2 clamps can be used to help hold the
webs in place while the glue cures.
DD 10. Cut and sand the trailing edge, spars and leading
edge flush with rib W10. Also cut these to the correct length 13
at the other end using the plans as a guide.
DD 11. Glue the 7/8" x 1-1/4" x 6-1/4" Tapered Wing
Tip Blocks (SPRTW15) to W10 with thick CA. The sketch
below and thecross sections on theplan shows how theblock
should be attached to get the correct tip shape.
DD 12. Carve and sand the wing tip to blend in with rib
W10. Be careful not to change the shape of W10 while
sanding the tip. There are three section views on the leftwing
plan to show you the desired shape.

DD 13. Apply several drops of thin CA to the rear portion
ofthebalsawingtip. Allowthegluetosoakintothewoodand
cure. The gluewill help harden the wood and protect it from
damage.
sand the leading edge, spars and trailing edge so they are all
even and of the correct length.
NOTE: The SPIRIT'S wing is designed to be
just under the legal maximum projected wing
span for 2-meter sailplanes (approximately
78-3/4"). Be very careful when joining these
panels to get the right amount ofdihedral and
to keep the panels the correct length or you
could very easily build a wing that is too long
for competition in the 2-meter class.
JOIN THE INNER AND OUTER WING
PANELS
DD 1. Prop up the outer panel 2-5/8" (from the work
surface to the bottom of W10) using the lower notch of the
Dihedral Gauge (from SPRTW08) next to rib W9. Use a
sanding block to carefully sand the leading edge, spars and
trailingedgetoachieveverticalsurfacesoneach. Checkyour
progress by occasionally setting the panel on the plans to
make sure you are not sanding any "sweep" (forward or
backward tilt) into the wing.
DD 2. With the inner panel flat on the work surface,
DD 3. Test fit the inner and outer panels together over
the plan to make sure the leading edges, spars, and trailing
edges all meet up nicely whenthe tippanel is blocked up the
required2-5/8" at thebottom ofribW10(Use the lowernotch
of the dihedral guage at W9 as shown on the plans to obtain
the correct angle). Sand any ends if needed to make every-
thing fit well.
DD 4. With the dihedral gauge in place. Apply thick CA
or epoxy to the leading edge, trailing edge and sparjoints to
"tack glue" the two panels together. Hold everything in
place untiltheglue has cured.
DD 5. Punch out two of the 1/32" Plywood Polyhedral
Braces from the die-cut sheet (SPRTW06) and test fit them
in place against the frontand back ofthe spars. Sand them if
needed to achieve a good fit.
DD 6. When satisfied with the fit apply a generous bead
ofepoxyorthickCAto the sparsandinstall thebraces onboth
sides of the spars. Use the die-cut C2 clamps (from
SPRTW08) to hold everything in place. The photo at the top
of the next page shows this procedure.
14

DD 7. Glue the 1/32" Plywood Polyhedral LE Brace
(from SPRTW06) in place against the leading edges. Install
ribs W3A and W3B between the inner and outer panels using
thickCAas shown in the photo. A little sanding may be nec-
essary to achieve a good fit. Use the rib gauge to tilt the ribs
to the proper angle.
D 8. Now go back to step 5 on page 9 and assemble the
other half of the wing.
FINAL WING ASSEMBLY
D 2. Use either epoxy or thick CA to glue one of the 1/16"
laminations to the 1/8" laminations. Apply as muchpressure
(clamps, clothespins, weights, etc.) as possible whilethe glue
is curing and be sure to accurately line up the two pieces.
Next, glue this laminationassemby and the other 1/16" lami-
nation, one on each side, to the aluminumjoinerusingepoxy
(Thealumiumjoinerandthe1/8" Laminationshouldbeinthe
middle). Clamp together until the glue cures.
D 3. Sand the edges of the finished "wing joiner" to
remove any glue globs and test fit it in the wing joiner box.
Some sanding may be required to get a nice smooth but not
loosefit.
IF YOU ARE BUILDING A ONE-PIECE
WING SKIP AHEAD TO STEP 4 IF YOU ARE BUILDING THE TWO.
PIECE WING SKIP AHEADTOSTEP 15
D 1. Punch outthree ofthe 1/16" andoneofthe1/8"Ply-
wood Wing Joiner Laminations (SPRTW05 / SPRTW04)
andfindthealuminumjoiner. Lightlysandtheedgesofeach
to remove any high spots.
D 4. Prop up one wing half2" (as measured from the work
surface to the bottom ofrib W3) and sand the root (Inner)end
of the trailing edge, spars and leading edges to achieve
vertical surfaces as you did earlierforthe outerpanels. Do the
same for the other wing panel.
D 5. Test fit the two inner panels together by laying one
panel flat on the work surface and propping up the other
panel 4" (at the bottom of rib W3). Use the dihedral gauge
nextto the lastW2ribtoachievethecorrectangle. Makesure
that each spar, etc. just touches the opposite spar, etc. of the
otherpanel. Carefullysandthelongestendsuntilagoodjoint
15 is achieved between each member.

D 6. Punchoutall fouroftheWingJoiner Laminations,
the Dihedral Braces and the Leading Edge Brace from the
die-cut sheets SPRTW04 and SPRTW05. Test fit all of the
pieces in place and sand them if necessary to make them fit
nicely. Thewingjoinerlaminationsareinstalledbetweenthe
sparsandarcsandwichedinplacebythedihedralbraces. The
C1 clamps can be used to hold everything in place.
D 7. When satisfied with the fit, mix up a batch ofepoxy
(30 minute cure time is ideal, 5-minute is too fast), coat the
joinerlaminationswithalayerofepoxyandinstallthejoiner
laminationsbetweenthespars. Quicklyapplysomeepoxy to
the dihedral braces and hold them in place using the C1
clamps. Also apply some glue to the leading and trailing
edges and pin them together to keep them aligned with one
another. Wipe offany excess epoxy thatmay have squeezed
out before it cures. After the glue cures sand off any glue
globs that may have formed.
D 8. Glue the 1/8" Plywood Leading Edge Brace in
place usingthick CA. It shouldbecentered (up and down)on
the leading edge because 1/16" sheeting will be added later.
D 9. Locate one of the 1/16" x 3" x24" Balsa Sheets
(SPRTW17) and cut it into 6 pieces 2-3/8" long. Slideone of
the sheets in place in frontofthe dihedral brace, trim it to fit
and glue it to the LE and the dihedral brace with thick CA.
D 10. Glue another piece to the rear of the dihedral brace.
then cut a third piece to fit behind the second and glue it in
place.
IF YOU ARE BUILDING A ONE-PIECE
WING THAT WILL BE ATTACHED
WITH RUBBER BANDS, DISREGARD
STEPS # 11,12,13 and 14 and instead just
glue all six W1A and W1B ribs in place.
D 11. Punch out six W1A ribs and six W1B ribs from the
1/8" die-cut balsa rib sheet (SPRTW01). Test fit these ribs
intoposition. A littlesandingmaybenecessarytomakethem
fitproperly. GlueallsixW1B ribs intoplace usingthickCA
(the two center W1B ribs arc glued together). Glue the outer
twoW1AribsintoplacebuttheremainingfourW1Aribswill
not be added until later.
D 12. Cut a piece of 1/4" birch plywood (not included) to
fitbetween theleading edgeandthe spars. Itwillbecalled the
Front Wing Bolt Plate and should be approximately 2-1/8"
x 2-5/16". Glue the wingboltplate in place with eitherepoxy
or thick CA. Add strips of 3/16 triangle stock wherever
possible along the joints to help reinforce it.
D 13. Glue a W1A rib to each side of the wing bolt plate.
Trim the othertwo W1A ribs to fittogether on top ofthewing
bolt plate and glue them in place. Cut out a section of these
twoW1Aribstoclearthe wing boltas shown in thesketchon
the top of the next page.
16

-Cut W1A Rib and Leading Edge Sheeting
away to clear Nylon Wing Bolt
D 14. Add a 5/16" x 1" x 7/8" balsa filler block (not
included) on each side of the middle W1B ribs near the
trailing edge and sand them flush with the top of the ribs.
STEPS 15 - 18 APPLY TO ALL WING
CONFIGURATIONS
and actas a lunge forthegluing process. Press the sheeting
intoplaceandtrimitflushwiththebackedgeofthesparusing
a modeling knife and straightedge.
D 17. Lift the sheeting up and apply a bead of thick CA
alongthetopspar.Quicklypressthesheetingdownintoplace
and hold until thegluehas cured. A straight strip ofwood the
length ofthe panel can be a big help when trying to hold the
sheeting down evenly.
D 15. Set the 1/16" x 3" x24" Balsa Leading Edge
Sheeting (SPRTW17)in place on the inner panel. The outer
end ofthe sheeting shouldcoverrib W3A. Cut offthe excess
sheeting even with rib W1A. Sand the top L.E. of the ribs if
necessary to allow the sheeting to be flush with the L.E.
D 16. With the 1/16" sheeting in place against the leading
edge apply several strips of masking tape to hold it in place
D 18. Apply a small bead ofthin CA between the pieces of
maskingtapealongtheleadingedge. Whenallofthegluehas
cured, remove the tape, flip the wing over and securely glue
the sheeting to the ribs using thin CA as shown in the photo
atthe top ofthe nextpage. Poke some pin holes in the center
sheeting where the center W1A rib is and apply a drop ofthin
CA to each hole.
17

IF YOU ARE NOT INSTALLING
SPOILERS SKIP TO STEP 28
D 23. With the spoiler in place, glue the 3/16" x 1/4" x
1-1/4" pieces of balsa to ribs W2. These are the spoiler rests
and should be positioned so they hold the spoiler flush with
thetopsurfaceofthewing. NOTE: Itisimportantthatthe
spoiler sitflush with the top ofthe wing or it willunneces-
sarilydisruptthe airflowover the wing.
D 19. Cut one 6-1/4" long spoiler from the UN-
NOTCHED scrap end of each Outer Panel Trailing Edge
(SPRTW12). Also cut two pieces of 3/16" x 1/4" balsa
6-9/32" long, fourpieces 1-1/4" long, twopieces 1" long and
two pieces of 1/16" x 1/8" balsa 6-9/32" long. This wood is
not supplied in the kit but can be purchased at your local
hobby dealer. Set halfofthe pieces aside for the other side of
the wing.
D 24. Drill 1/8" holes intheribsas indicatedon theplansand
snake a 1/8" diameter nylon tubing (Inner pushrod tube or
antennatube,notincluded)throughtheribs. Cuta 1/8" wide,
1/8" deep notch in the middleofthe 3/16" x 1/4" x 1" pieceof
balsa and glue it to the bottom of the 3/16" x 1/4" x 6-9/32"
piece trapping the end of the spoiler tube in the notch as
shown in the photo.
D 20. Glue the 1/16" x 1/8" x 6-9/32" piece ofbalsa to the
back edge of the sheeting between the W2 ribs as shown on
the plans and in the photo.
D 21. Glue the 3/16" x 1/4" x 6-9/32" piece of balsa in its
notch on the W2S ribs. Itshould alsobe glued to theW2 ribs
at the ends and it should be flush with the TOP of the ribs.
D 22. Test fit the spoiler in its bay and sand it ifnecessary
to achieve a 1/32" gap around the sides and trailing edge. Use
a strip of masking tape to temporarily hinge the spoiler in
place.
18
D 25. Ifyou are using the spoiler setup shown on theplans,
thespoilertubeshouldexitthebottomofthewingjustbehind
the wing joiner box and the nylon tube should protrude
approximately4" tohelpthespoiler string clear the servos in
the fuselage. Drill a 1/8" hole in the bottom center section
sheetingforthe tube, insertthetubeinplaceand gluethe lube
to every rib and the sheeting using thick CA.

these sheets to match the contour ofthe wing and be careful
not to add much to the wingspan with these extra sheets.
D 30. Sand three edges (two short and one long edge) of
each 1/16" Plywood Wing Protector (SPRTW18) to a taper
as shown on the plans and glue them in place on top ofeach
trailing edge. They should be oriented so the unsandcd edge
is flush with the back of the trailing edge and they should be
placed 9/16" away from the root of the wing. These will
protect the wing trailing edge from being dented.
Wing Protectors
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
D 26. Drill a 1/16" hole in each 1/16" Die-Cut Plywood
Spoiler Horn (SPRTW05) at the indentation. Cut a 1/16"
wide slot in the spoiler for the spoiler horn using a razor saw
(a hack saw blade will also work fine) and glue the horn in
place. Itshouldbeflushwiththe top surfaceofthespoileras
shown on the plans. This completes the assembly of the
spoilers untilafter the wing is covered.
D 27. Assemble the spoiler on the other wing panel.
STEPS 28 AND 29 APPLY TO ALL WING
CONFIGURATIONS.
D 28. Use the remaining piece of 1/16" balsa sheeting to
sheet the top inboard center section out past rib W1B as
shown in the photo. Thick CA should be used for this step.
Pre-cutthesheetingtofitfirstnearthespars, andcuta second
piece to fitbetween the firstpiece and the trailingedge. Glue
these in place and if you built a two-piece wing, sand the
sheeting flush with the W1A and W1B ribs at the wing root.
D 29. If you built a two-piece wing, trial fit the two wing
halvestogetherusingtheplywoodwingjoiner. Sandtheroot
of each panel if necessary to achieve a nice close joint
between the two wings. If there are large gaps, glue a sheet
of 1/16" balsa to the root of the panels to fill the gaps. Sand
You'll need thefollowing items:
SPRTF01 3/32" Balsa Fuselage Sides, Wing Saddle Tripler
SPRTF02 3/32"BalsaFuselageDoublers
SPRTF03 1/8"PlywoodFromFuselageBottom
SPRTF04 1/16" BalsaRearFuselageSheeting
SPRTF05
1/8" PlywoodFormers
SPRTF07 1/8" Square x 24" Balsa Stringer
SPRTF08 3/16"x30"BalsaTriangle
SPRTW05 1/16"PlywoodTowhookPlate
ASSEMBLE FUSELAGE SIDES
D 1. Pin or tape the fuselage plan to your flat work
surface and cover it with waxed paper. Pin one of the 3/32"
Die-Cut Balsa Fuselage Sides (SPRTF01) down ABOVE
the FUSELAGE SIDE VIEW so you can use the plan for
reference. This is going to be the LEFT fuselage side.
DD 2. Trial fit one of the 3/32" Die-Cut Balsa Front
Fuselage Doublers (SPRTF02) onto the 3/32" Balsa Fuse-
lageSide.Thedoublershouldlineupwiththefuselagewhere
the canopy will sit. The arrows in the photo point out this
area. Spread a thinlayerofthick CA on thedoublerand glue
it to the fuselage side.
19

DD 3. Glue the 3/32" Die-Cut Balsa Rear Fuselage
Doubler (SPRTF02) in place making sure it lines up with the
fuselage sides at the rear of the doubler where the arrows in
the photo arc pointing.
DD 4. Glue one of the 3/32" Die-Cut Balsa Wing
Saddle Triplers (SPRTF01) in place on lop of the front
fuselage doubler. Do not let the tripler overlap the notches for
the formers.
FRAME-UP THE FUSELAGE
D 1. Lay a piece of waxed paper over the FUSELAGE
TOP VIEW. Assemblebutdonotglue glue yet 1/8" Die-Cut
Plywood FrontFuselage Bottom (SPRTF03) and the 3/32"
Die-Cut Balsa Rear Fuselage Bottom (SPRTF04) together
over the FUSELAGE TOP VIEW on the plans. The 1/8"
plywood bottom should be installed with the three towhook
hole marksDOWN so you can tell where to drill thetowhook
holes after the fuselage is assembled. Make sure the bottoms
are aligned with the plan and that both pieces are pushed
firmlyagainst the work surfacetoeven up the bottoms. Ifthe
joint is a nice tight fit, apply thin CA to thejoint. Ifthejoint
is a little loose, take the bottoms apart, apply thick CA and
reassemble them.
DD 5. Cut one of the 1/8" Square Balsa Stringers
(SPRTF07) to fit between the notch for former F5 and the rear
doubler and glue it in place making sure it is lined up flush
with the lop edge of the fuselage side (excluding the tabs).
Cut another 1/8" sq. balsa stringer to fit along the bottom
between the rear doubler and the notch for former F5 and glue
it in place. Make sure it is lined up flush with thebottom edge
of the fuselage side (excluding the tabs).
D 6. Go back to step 2 and assemble the RIGHT fuselage
side. The easiest way to do this is to pin the other fuselage side
upside down above the one you just built as shown in the
photo. MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT BUILDING TWO
IDENTICAL SIDES, THEY SHOULD BE THE OPPO-
SITE OF EACH OTHER.
D 2. Trial fit all of the 1/8" Plywood Formers (except
Fl) in the respective notches in the fuselage bottom and sand
them if needed to make them fit properly. Use thick CA to
"Tack" glue the formers in place. The notches in the
fuselage sides will align the formers correctly.
D 3. Align the fuselage sides with the fuselage bottom
and position the formers so they will key into the notches.
Remove the assembly from the work surface and use rubber
bands to hold it all together.
D 4. Check the fit of the 1/16" Plywood Tow-hook Plate
(SPRTW05) in its slot between formers F4 and F5. Enlarge
the slot if needed to make the plate fit and glue it to the
20