GRS GRAVERMEISTER GG User manual
MODEL GG
OPERATION
MAINTENANCE
PARTS LISTING
900 Overlander Road • Emporia, Kansas 66801
2
The GRAVERMEISTER fullls the need for a machine capable
of allowing rapid but precise cutting and carving of metal, stone,
and wood, as well as many other materials. The precise impact
control feature of the machine also makes it an ideal tool for stone
setting, stippling, matt nishing on jewelry, and stipple engraving
on crystal, etc.
The skills required to properly operate the GRAVERMEISTER,
while not within the ability of everyone, are easily mastered by one
who possesses certain obvious, natural skills.
The GRAVERMEISTER acts on the principle of an air-operated
hammer capable of delivering controlled impacts at speeds from
1600 to 2400 strokes per minute. The speed of the stroke is
varied by positioning an adjusting lever arm. The impact force is
controlled by depressing a foot pedal in much the same way the
gas pedal on a car is operated.
Because of both the large range of adjustments available, and the
precise control possible, delicate cuts can be combined with heavy
material-removal cuts for the desired effect.
To realize the full capability of the GRAVERMEISTER, it is
necessary for you to become totally familiar with both the operation
and proper maintenance of all the components of your machine.
It is also important to become familiar with various proven
techniques for use of the GRAVERMEISTER, and the wide variety
of tools used to produce the various effects desired. Tool geometry
and proper sharpening are as important as skillful use of the
GRAVERMEISTER. The rst section of this manual is intended to
help you avoid many of the difculties others have experienced
in achieving the desired results with the machine. This section is
worthy of frequent review until you master both the machine and
the proper preparation of the tool, or graver, that does the work.
This manual is broken down into the following four sections:
1. TIPS FOR EFFECTIVE USE OF THE GRAVERMEISTER
2. MACHINE OPERATION
3. MAINTENANCE
4. PARTS LISTING
TIPS FOR EFFECTIVE USE
OF THE GRAVERMEISTER
1.1 The GRAVERMEISTER provides an effective, unique method
for performing a variety of functions in many materials. You may
not achieve effective results with the machine at rst. In fact, your
initial attempts may be disappointing or downright discouraging!
Begin by expecting a learning period - whether you have had
experience engraving by another method, or are a novice. This
claim is also made: After the initial learning period, the results and
the satisfaction derived from use of the machine are fantastic!
It takes a little practice, some learning, and perhaps some re-
learning. It may seem awkward and ineffective at rst - like your
rst attempt to ride a bicycle - remember?
1.2 The easiest and most productive way to learn quickly is
to work with someone who is accomplished in the use of the
GRAVERMEISTER. If this is not possible, we hope the information
contained in these “TIPS” will be helpful. A most valuable and
useful information source is James B. Meek’s book, THE ART OF
ENGRAVING. We recommend it highly.
1.3 Most of the information in this section is directed toward
the task of metal engraving. Even if your purpose for using
the GRAVERMEISTER differs, this information is relevant and
helpful. The engraving of metal, especially steel, is most difcult
and demanding. When the principles of metal engraving are
understood, then other uses are easily acheived. We have never
known a person who could effectively carve a deep relief scene
in steel, who could not easily and effectively… set a stone…
orentine or engrave a ring… matt nish a piece of jewelry…carve
wood… or prepare a fossil.
1.4 Here are some reasons why you may not achieve effective
results with the GRAVERMEISTER at rst:
A. The concept of variable power applied to the tool holder, or
handpiece, seems strange at rst and must be experienced.
B. Coordination of power and tool cutting action with the foot
throttle might feel awkward, but a small amount of practice
makes it natural and automatic.
C. It seems strange and different at rst - but extremely effective
when mastered. Again, remember how easy it was to ride a
bicycle after you learned how. Successful cutting requires just
the right amount of forward pressure on the handpiece. Too
much pressure creates fatigue and impairs tool control. Too little
pressure quickly dulls the tool point.
1.5 Try these techniques - then review results and try them again:
A. Turn the machine ON, hold the handpiece in your hand, and
work the foot throttle to get the feel of the power variation from
light, short strokes to heavy, long strokes. You will begin to
anticipate the foot throttle position for the various power settings
desired.
B. Be sure the tool is seated fully and tight in the handpiece chuck.
(see OPERATING TECHNIQUES on page 9)
C. When cutting or engraving, hold the handpiece as you would
a table knife - not as a pencil. Place your index nger on
the graver, or chisel, as you would on a knife blade to exert
slight downward pressure. You hold it like a pencil only when
stippling, background matting, chipping, etc. (see How to Hold
the Handpiece on page 8)
D. Place the tool cutting point on the work piece before applying
power with the throttle. Attempting to enter the cut with the
power ON and the handpiece stroking will quickly dull the tool
point.
E. Apply power with the throttle only after positioning the tool on
the work. Use slight pressure to keep the tool point moving
forward into the cut. Both tool angle and downward pressure
control depth of cut. Too much downward pressure will tire you,
though.
F. Vary the power input with the throttle to control the speed and
depth of cut. Do not let the cutting action get ahead of your
ability to guide the tool. Stop the throttle action to reposition the
work. Leave the tool point in position in the cut.
G. Overcome the tendency to let the handpiece continue to stroke
when not actually cutting (by failing to manipulate the Throttle).
With practice, control of the Throttle becomes an automatic
response.
H. Use a stable vise, or heavy engraver’s block to hold the work. If
the work is not held solidly, vibration will decrease effectiveness
of the machine power and will more quickly dull or chip the
tool point. The GRS MAGNABLOCK is the most effective
work-holding block, allows the needed rotation of the work,
and was designed for use with the GRAVERMEISTER. (see
OPERATING TECHNIQUES on page 10)
I. Don’t push hard! If your hand becomes tired or cramped, you
aren’t using the power of the machine to do the work - or you
may not have the tool properly sharpened or heeled. (see 1.12
“B” page 4)
3
J. Keep the tool sharp and properly heeled. Sharpen frequently -
before you lose the point entirely. With practice you will begin
to “feel” when the point is beginning to dull. At this time, only a
slight amount of sharpening is necessary to bring it back to the
desired sharpness. Hardness of the material you are cutting will
greatly affect tool life.
K. There should be no noticeable vibration of the tool point in the
cut. If the point is allowed to vibrate in the cut, the point will dull
quickly.
The Important Tool Sharpening Techniques
1.6 While the GRAVERMEISTER is a tremendous aid in solving
the most difcult task in engraving or carving, it does not help
in another important area - the task of tool sharpening. In fact, it
perhaps even emphasized that problem. You will be cutting faster
and deeper, and point geometry and condition will soon become
apparent. Be prepared to go through a learning period in the tool
sharpening task. Here too, a few minutes spent with someone who
knows how to sharpen tools properly can save hours of frustrating
experimentation. A word of caution though! BE SURE YOUR
ADVISOR REALLY KNOWS.
1.7 If a session with someone who knows how is not possible,
read the following information - and practice. In the end, you must
learn an effective technique so that when you put the tool into the
work, you know the result will be as you planned.
1.8 Various types of gravers
are used for different types and
styles of cutting, but the square
and point (Onglette) are the most
important in metal cutting, and
once you master the sharpening
techniques for them, you should
have little difculty with others.
1.9 In the book, THE ART OF ENGRAVING, Mr. Meek’s excellent
illustration and discussion of the importance of proper tool
sharpening technique and geometry is especially helpful. He
relates to this subject in chapters 2, 4 and 7. This subject is of
utmost importance, and this reference material is most helpful.
1.10 Gravers should be ground on the face rst. The approximate
45-degree angle should be maintained. Keep the graver in the
handpiece for free hand sharpening. First, this will save time.
Second, the additional length provided is an aid in maintaining the
proper angle on the stone. It requires a considerable amount of
care and practice to maintain the proper angle while sweeping the
tool point across the stone.
1.11 A common error in
sharpening is the tendency
to increase the angle of the
face gradually each time the
graver is resharpened. To help
prevent this and to reduce the
sharpening time, it is helpful
to remove some of the excess
material near the point with a
bench grinder.
1.12 GRS sharpening equipment is a most valuable aid in tool
sharpening. It is especially helpful for beginners in the art of
engraving, and has been readily accepted by accomplished
engravers who have found that it is faster and produces more
consistent results.
A. The GRS Power Hone is a
valuable aid. Since the stone
or lap rotates, it is necessary
only to hold the graver at the
correct angle. You may leave
the graver in the Handpiece
as the added length provides
a convenient handle.
B. The combination of the
GRS Power Hone and
the Sharpening Fixture
provides the ideal sharpening system. The Sharpening Fixture
is designed specically for use with the Power Hone. With
this combination, you can sharpen repeatedly with consistent
results time after time. It is easy to learn - you merely follow
the instructions. A square graver can also be ‘heeled” with the
xture.
1.13 For good results, the
graver must be heeled, or
set-up. This task takes some
experimentation and practice
to produce satisfactory results.
The nish of the engraved cut is
greatly affected by the nish of
the graver heel. For a bright cut,
nish the heel using polishing
paper or a ceramic lap. Here is what the heel accomplishes:
A. It raises the working angle of the graver to a convenient height
from the work serface.
B. It provides depth control.
C. It gives clearance when working on irregular surfaces, and
prevents the bottom surface of the graver from dragging on the
edges of the cut when making curved cuts.
D. It improves the quality and appearance of the cut.
Usually a heel angle of 15 degrees is used. Only a small amount of
material need be removed. A few light strokes on a ne, hard stone
is sufcient. Don’t be confused by the tremendous number and
variety of gravers available in the supply catalogs; virtually all work
can be accomplished with a small variety of points.
Tips for Practice Sessions
1.14 Start with simple cuts. Using a square or point (Onglette)
graver, begin by cutting straight lines - then simple curves. Practice
depth control, cutting both ne shallow lines, and deep cuts. It is
good practice to master the technique of varying the depth of cut
to produce a pleasing shaded effect. These practice sessions will
help you acquire the necessary skills in both tool control and tool
sharpening technique.
1.15 After you have mastered the basic skill, you can concentrate
on learning the more difcult and intricate designs. With condence
in your ability to control the tool, you will be able to execute
progressively more difcult patterns with varying depth of cut and
subtle shading - and nally on curved or irregular surfaces.
1.16 Simple exercises like those sketched on the top of the next
page are good beginning practice designs as they are relatively
simple. It is easy to determine the progression of the cuts to
generate the design, and they do not require a large amount of
rotation or manipulation of the work piece. This type of design is
also good practice for the beginning woodcarver.
SQUARE
POINT or ONGLETTE
CERAMIC LAP &
DIAMOND WHEELS
DUAL ANGLE
SHARPENING FIXTURE
GRS POWER HONE
REMOVED
BY GRINDING
45
15
HEEL ANGLE
BOTTOM
VIEW
FRONT
VIEW
SIDE
VIEW
4
MACHINE OPERATION
The operation section is divided into the following ve parts:
2.1 MACHINE STARTUP
2.2 HANDPIECE
2.3 THROTTLE
2.4 STROKE SPEED CONTROL
2.5 PUMP
2.1 Machine Startup
The GRAVERMEISTER has been completely checked out and set
for proper operation at the factory. It is shipped with the throttle,
handpiece, and accessories disassembled and packed separately
in the carton. The throttle hose is connected to the proper location
on the machine. To unpack:
A. Remove the machine from
the shipping carton.
B. Install the Foot Support
Assembly on the Pump
Mount. (Refer to instructions
on the foot support package
or the illustration below for
proper installation).
C. Connect the hose already
attached to the machine to
the foot throttle. Connect
the handpiece hose, the
shorter one, to the machine
valve assembly. Do not
interchange these hoses.
The handpiece hose must be shorter than the throttle hose for
proper operation.
D. The machine is now ready for operation, but please familiarize
yourself with all sections of the manual, and keep it handy for
future reference. It is valuable aid for successful use of the
GRAVERMEISTER.
2.2 Handpiece
The GRAVERMEISTER Handpiece is that portion of the machine
which acts as an air-driven hammer, and is used to hold and
provide power to the tool. It consists of the Chuck and Body
Assembly, Piston, Spring, and Air Connector. Currently ve
handpieces are available for use with the GRAVERMEISTER, and
they are easily interchanged.
A. The Handpieces are designed to work with a wide variety of
gravers, liners, wood chisels, chippers, etc. GRS gravers t
all GRS handpieces. Most other brand gravers will need to be
altered to t the handpiece chuck. Normal tool shank diameter
for each handpiece is 1/8 inch.
B. The Piston is the stroking element. Its reciprocating action
delivers the impact to the tool.
C. The Spring holds the Piston in its proper position in the
Handpiece body and is an important element in the stoke
control characteristics of the machine.
D. Only one handpiece can be connected to the Gravermeister
at a time. GRS offers a Quick Disconnect Kit (#004-615)
that allows you to switch from one handpiece to another in
seconds.
HOW TO HOLD THE HANDPIECE
Normally, you should hold the handpiece like a table knife, not like
a pencil. A few exceptions are hammering and stippling. Resist the
urge to grip the handpiece tightly. Train yourself to hold it as softly
as you can.
IMPORTANT
Gravermeister handpieces have an internal piston that
creates some vibration during operation. A few people are more
sensitive to this hand vibration than others. Should the user
experience hand or nger numbing, excessive tingling, pain,
etc. the use of this tool should be discontinued. There are many
variables and several steps can be taken to reduce the effect of
this vibration.
Operator Tips that lessen hand fatigue and vibration:
1. Hold the handpiece as loosely as possible. Studies done
on a variety of power tools indicate that strong tool gripping
signicantly aggravates hand vibration problems.
1
2
3
4
5
67
8
1
2
34
5
FOOT SUPPORT
ASSY. #002-024
WARNING: NEVER OIL
the non-lubricated pump.
It will cause unit to fail.
5
2. Keep hands warm. Cold ngers can be more susceptible to the
effects of vibration.
3. Use only as much power as you need and apply power
smoothly. Some operators apply excessive power with the foot
control and then “hold back” the tool with their hand. In this
case the operator’s hand must absorb the excess power that
isn’t needed to do the work!
4. Maintain sharp and accurate tools. Using the correct tool can
signicantly reduce the power needed to work. When a lot
of metal must be moved by hammering, use a small nose
tool to concentrate the hammer power. A properly prepared
engraving tool (graver) will “stay in the cut” with little or no
hand force. If the tool must be
pushed downward or forward
excessively, then something
is probably wrong with the
tool or work technique.
5. Let the Gravermeister do the
work! Many handworkers
were trained using hand
power alone. Even after
switching to a power tool
such as the Gravermeister,
many traditional handworkers
strongly grip and push out of
habit. Although it is difcult to
break, these old hand habits
reduce the effectiveness
of the Gravermeister while
increasing hand vibration.
Like the warnings on items used everyday, this vibration
information is intended to educate and not unnecessarily frighten
the user from enjoying the benets of this new Gravermeister.
2.3 Operating Techniques
A. When inserting the desired tool into the Chuck, it is not
necessary that it be aligned perfectly; however, it must be rmly
seated inside the Chuck resting on the ledge provided in the
chuck jaws. This will prevent slippage and transmit maximum
impact to the cutting edge.
Standard gravers normally used with wood handles (point, knife,
liners, etc.) may be used in all handpieces. The tang (or shank)
end must be modied by grinding to t the chuck properly. These
gravers are clamped, with a set screw, into the chuck or Quick
Change Holder with the tang end inserted clear to the bottom.
Gravers purchased from GRS Tools are made to t our equipment
and may be used as a guide for modifying gravers you already
own or purchase from other sources.
B. Always be sure that the tool point is sharp. Sharpness
enhances cutting control and allows crisp, clean material
removal. Refer to the TIPS section of the manual for further
information on sharpening technique.
C. Hold the Handpiece rmly, but you need not grip it tightly. Train
yourself to hold it as softly as you can.
D. Do not push hard on the tool while cutting. Because of the
reciprocating impact action of the machine, it requires only
slight forward pressure.
E. The depth of the cut is controlled by varying the angle of
approach of the tool to the workpiece. After the cut is started,
decrease the angle and maintain sufcient downward pressure
on the tool to keep it from slipping from the cut.
F. For best control, the workpiece must be held as rmly as
possible. If it is not, much
of the power and cutting
capability of the tool is lost.
When cutting curved lines,
it is best to use either an
engraver’s ball or a vise
which can be rotated with
your free hand to position the
work as the cut progresses.
We recommend the GRS
MAGNABLOCK.
2.4 Throttle
A. DESCRIPTION: The Throttle
controls the impact force
of the tool. The more the
Throttle is depressed, the
greater the stroke impact.
The Throttle is essentially
an air valve. The depressing
action progressively closes a
Vacuum valve. As this valve
closes, vacuum to operate
the handpiece piston is
increased.
B. OPERATING TECHNIQUES
1. The ability to exercise precise control under all
operating conditions is the most important feature of
the GRAVERMEISTER. Coordination of the Throttle
and Handpiece is very similar to steering your car while
depressing the gas pedal.
2. Place the cutting point of the tool in position before
depressing the Throttle. Stop the stroking action before
repositioning the tool, or at the end of a cut. Then, lift the tool
from your work.
3. Use sufcient impact force to perform the cutting with a
minimum of hand pressure. (If your hand and arm become
tired quickly, you are pushing the tool and using too light a
Shown are a couple of acceptable
ways to hold a graver.
1/8"
1/2"+/-
CAUTION: Do not use tool bits with a sharp tang, as the tang
will damage the bottom of the chuck. Grind the sharp point
off. Do not use tool bits with a taper larger than the chuck will
easily accept. If the tool bit shank is so large that it will not
“bottom out”, the impact during use will wedge the tool into the chuck
so tightly that the Handpiece may be damaged when trying to remove
the tool bit. Grind any excessive taper from the tool bit shank.
Chuck Ledge
Cross Section view of
Quick Change Chuck
View showing Bulino
Handpiece Chuck
This sketch shows how the
graver should be modied.
Left to right: GRS Positioning Vise (for
microscope work), GRS Standard Block,
and GRS Magnablock.
THROTTLE
6
stroke.) Remember, let the machine do the cutting. Use only
enough hand pressure to maintain complete control over the
cutting edge. If the tool bit slips out of position and gouges
your work, you are using too much hand pressure.
2.5 Stroke Speed Control
The Gravermeister has a range
of 1600 to 2400 strokes per
minute. This is adjusted using
the lever on the side of the front
cover. Never adjust the stroke
lever unless the Gravermeister
is running. The strokes per
minute adjustment allows you
to ne-tune the handpiece for
power and control. Each type
of handpiece has a different
response. Some handpieces will
be erratic and hard to control
at certain stroke speeds. If this
happens, change the stroke
speed to a different setting.
Usually, a slower stroke speed
will be less erratic, but try several settings and see how you like
it. Even though some handpieces may work strangely at certain
stroke speeds, this will not damage the handpiece. You can never
hurt a handpiece with the wrong strokes per minute setting.
2.6 Operating Techniques
Stroke speed is a matter of personal preference and experience.
Generally, a medium speed is desired; however, there are two
conditions under which slower stroke speeds are more tting:
A. When using beading, matting or staking tool.
B. For cuts requiring maximum power. This is an inherent
characteristic of the speed/power relationship in the machine.
NOTE: Change speed settings while the machine is running. This
practice increases belt life.
2.7 Pump
A. DESCRIPTION: The Pump is the power source of the
GRAVERMEISTER. It is a specially designed and constructed
combination vacuum/pressure pump. The Pump, which is a
rotary-vane type, is combined with the motor to form a very
compact unit.
B. The Vacuum inlet of the Pump is equipped with a Filter and
contains a hose tting for the Throttle inlet.
C. A Power Bleed Valve is also located on this tting. This Valve
reduces the Maximum impact power of the machine when it is
unscrewed. This provides more precise control for delicate work
(it acts like a governor).
D. For normal operation, this valve should be closed for maximum
power range. To adjust for reduced maximum power; open the
valve until maximum power is reduced to the desired level.
Limiting power in this manner makes the throttle less sensitive
and easier to control for delicate work.
E. The pressure outlet of the pump is provided with two special
Mufer/Filters. The rst Mufer/Filter contains a lter element
for cleaning the pump exhaust air. The second Mufer/Filter
contains a Pressure Relief Valve set at the factory for 3 P.S.I.
DO NOT ADJUST THIS VALVE. Be sure the aluminum jars are
tight to prevent leakage.
MAINTENANCE
The maintenance section is divided into the following four parts:
3.1 HANDPIECE
3.2 THROTTLE
3.3 STROKE SPEED CONTROL
3.4 PUMP
3.1 Handpiece
The Handpiece must be kept clean for proper operation. It must
“breathe” through the bleed holes around the Handpiece body.
If the Handpiece operation becomes sluggish, erratic, or fails to
operate, it may need cleaning.
A. To clean the Handpiece:
1. Remove the Hose Connector, Spring and Piston, and clean
all parts thoroughly with solvent.
2. Reassemble
3. Do NOT oil the Piston or bore of a Handpiece. Oil will soon
become gummy and cause erratic handpiece action.
B. Oiling - Occasionally place a drop of oil on the Handpiece
Chuck or Quick Change Holder. This will extend the useful life
of the chuck components, and make them easier to open and
close.
3.2 Throttle
A. Cleaning - The Throttle should require little maintenance.
However, if operated in dusty or dirty conditions, it may be
necessary to clean the valve inlet periodically. The valve inlet
is located inside the hinge plate, directly opposite the Throttle
Valve hose connection.
B. Oiling - Periodically place a drop of oil on the Throttle Hinge and
the sliding surface of the Throttle Inlet.
3.3 Stroke Speed Control
A. Cover removal - To remove cover, loosen the screws on each
side of the cover and lift off. It is necessary to spring the cover
open slightly to clear the Idler Arm.
NOTE: When installing the cover, be sure the locating anges at
the top properly engage the switch cover and back plate.
B. Switch Cover removal - Two screws fasten the Switch Cover to
the Back Plate. If it becomes necessary to remove this cover,
the switch must also be removed; however, most maintenance
can be performed without doing so.
SPEED
CONTROL
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
1 PUMP
2 AIR FILTER
3 THROTTLE CONNECTION
4 POWER BLEED VALVE
5 MUFFLER / FILTER
6 PRESSURE RELIEF REGULATOR
7 HANDPIECE CONNECTION
7
WARNING: BE SURE
TO UNPLUG THE
MACHINE BEFORE
WORKING IN THIS
AREA.
C. Belt removal - The belt
can be easily removed by
positioning the idler arm to
2400 and rolling the Belt
from the valve sheave. When
installing the belt, place it
around the variable sheave
and pull on it, just enough to
expand the sheave and allow
the belt to be placed on the
valve sheave.
3.4 Pump
WARNING: NEVER
OIL this non-lubricated
pump. It will cause
unit to fail.
A. Vacuum Filter - The Vacuum
Filter may be visually
inspected for dirt. Clean the
jar periodically to prevent the
possibility of foreign particles
passing through the pump.
Remove the felt lter elements occasionally and clean them
with a solvent.
CAUTION: ALWAYS BE SURE ALL FILTER JARS ARE
TIGHTLY INSTALLED. A LEAK CAUSES A DRASTIC
REDUCTION IN MACHINE PERFORMANCE.
B. Mufer/Filter Jar - Periodically remove and clean the aluminum
Mufer/Filter Jar. The Pressure Relief Valve (inside the second
jar) is set at the factory for the proper operation pressure of 3
P.S.I. No further adjustment of this valve should be made.
C. Maintenance - for satisfactory performance of the Pump, consult
the Pump manual for any maintenance required. A local GAST
distributor may be near you, and can supply replacement parts.
GRS also maintains a large supply of replacement of parts.
CAUTION: A considerable amount of heat is generated
by the pump, especially on the pressure side. This is
normal. The Mufer / Filters will normally become so
warm that they are uncomfortable to touch. This is due to
the heat rise associated with the compression of air.
BELT PLACEMENT
IDLER ARM
VARIABLE SHEAVE
BELT
VALVE SHEAVE
SELECTION AND
USE OF HANDPIECES
#004-564 • Bulino
Recommended Strokes/Minute: 1600-2400
Uses: The smallest handpiece for ne work including shading and
small stone setting. Almost as small as a hand graver handle!
#004-612 • Hammer
Recommended Strokes/Minute: 1600-2100
General purpose to heavy engraving, stone setting, carving and
hammering. Made from stainless steel. Has set screw chuck.
#004-611 • Hammer
Recommended Strokes/Minute: 1600-2100
Same as #004-612 above, but for threaded hammer tips only.
Includes one tip.
#004-821 • #821 QC
Recommended Strokes/Minute: 1600-2400
Fine to general purpose engraving and stone setting. Has “graver
handle” feel and GRS Quick Tool Change feature.
#004-830 • QC Set
Includes #004-821 handpiece and #004-805 Quick Change Hand
Engravers plus QC Holders
#004-712 • #712 QC
Recommended Strokes/Minute: 1600-2100
General purpose to heavy engraving, stone setting and
hammering. Has contoured shape and GRS Quick Tool Change
feature.
See page 11 for Handpiece Parts List
8
PART NO. DESCRIPTION
002-024 Foot Support Assy.
002-018 Base
002-019 Bumper
002-020 Nut
002-021 Washer
002-022 1/4-20 R.H.M.S.
002-284 Nut
002-009 Pump
002-143 Elbow
002-165 Vacuum Filter Assy.
002-158 Gasket (not shown)
002-223 Filter Holder
002-010 Filter Cap
002-023 Felt Filter (3 reqd.)
002-011 Vacuum Filter Jar
001-513 Vacuum Tee Assy.
011-234 Spring
001-563 Metering Screw Assy.
001-050 Throttle Hose
001-045 Pressure Hose
002-112 5/16-18 UNC x 3/4 HHB
002-106 1/4 Flat Washer
002-112 5/16-18 x 3/4 H.H.B.
002-106 1/4 Flat Washer
001-051 Handle Bracket
001-221 Handle
002-201 Nipple
002-006 Elbow
002-044 Filter Cap and Assy.
002-012 Cap
002-014 Filter
002-016 Jar
002-033 Gasket (not shown)
002-185 Filter Frame
002-007 Nipple
002-045 Relief Cap and Assy.
001-576 Relief Cap
002-074 Pipe Bushing (not shown)
002-013 Pressure Relief
002-033 Gasket (not shown)
001-069 Relief Jar
002-153 Hose Fitting
Foot Support Assembly
Vacuum Filter Assembly
Filter Cap Assembly
Relief Cap Assembly
Gravermeister Gasket Kit
PART #002-049
PARTS LIST
9
PART NO. DESCRIPTION
002-155 Valve Sheave
002-061 #8-32 x 3/8 R.H.M.S.
002-063 #8 Lock Washer
001-003 Back Plate
001-893 Valve / Rotor Assy.
002-061 #8-32 x 3/8 R.H.M.S.
004-049 Handpiece Hose
002-104 #8-32 Hex Nut
001-045 Pressure Hose
002-069 #10-32 x 1/2 R.H.M.S.
002-073 1/4-28 Hex Nut
001-047 Retainer
002-069 #10 Lock Washer
002-105 #10-32 x 5/8 R.H.M.S.
001-221 Handle
002-063 #8 Lock Washer
002-311 1/4-20 x 1/4 S.H.S.S
002-001 Grommet
001-002 Idler Arm
001-182 Brake Washer
001-510 Cover Assy.
002-109 #10-32 UNF Hex Nut
001-508 Idler Roller Assy.
001-068 Idler Arm Bolt
001-560 Sheave Face Assy. (inner)
001-559 Sheave Face Assy.
001-015 Spring
011-273 Belt
001-017 Spring Retainer
002-067 #10-32 x 1/2 S.H.C.S.
002-004 Switch
001-040 Switch Cover
002-003 Switch Plate
002-043 Retainer Ring
Gravermeister
PART #001-842
PARTS LIST
10
PART NO. DESCRIPTION
001-050 Throttle Hose
001-028 Throttle Hinge Nut
002-061 #8-32 x 3/8 R.H.M.S.
001-019 Throttle Base Plate
011-210 Rubber Foot Assy.
001-053 Spacer
002-526 Spring Retainer
001-037 Inlet Spring
001-026 Throttle Inlet
001-036 Throttle Spring
001-018 Hinge Plate
002-073 1/4-28 Hex Nut
004-010 Throttle Hinge Shaft
002-063 #8 Lock Washer
001-091 Valve Port
002-104 8-32 UNC Hex Nut
NOTE: Clean valve inlet
opening periodically.
Foot Throttle Assembly
PART #001-501
PARTS LIST
11
004-219
004-221
004-228
004-056
002-759
004-223
004-226
002-761
004-224 004-226
004-049
004-218
004-283
004-286
002-903
004-281
002-590
022-029 004-278
022-116 SHIM(S)
011-234
002-950
002-605
002-203
004-277
004-287
002-949
004-287
002-964
011-233
002-964 004-049
004-280
004-282
004-803 ASSY.
004-226 004-221
004-223
004-228 002-759
004-056
002-949
004-226
004-049
004-313
004-312
004-311
022-029
002-950
002-605
004-803 ASSY.
#004-612 • Hammer
#004-611 • Hammer
#004-821 • #821 QC
#004-712 • #712 QC
#004-564 • Bulino 004-131
004-566 (INCLUDES SET SCREW)
004-259
004-119
004-125
004-122
022-186
002-108
004-118 004-123
004-049
002-605
004-220
004-221
004-228
004-056
002-759
004-223
004-226
002-947
004-224 004-226
004-049
004-218
002-763
002-764
REPLACEMENT CHUCK KIT #004-661
Glendo Corporation
900 Overlander Road
Emporia, KS 66801 USA
Tel: 620-343-1084
Fax: 620-343-9640
e-mail: [email protected]
USA Toll Free
800-835-3519
Visit our website:
www.grstools.com
Last Updated: 02-20-2014 #001-080
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