Hagerman Technology FryBaby User manual

HAGERMAN
T E C H N O L O G Y
FryBaby
Audio Burn-in Generator

FryBaby Kit Manual
2
Warnings
This product does not use any dangerous voltages. Power is supplied from either a 9V
battery or a UL listed 9V wall-wart. Hagerman Technology assumes no liability.
Copyrights & Trademarks
©Copyright Hagerman Technology LLC 2008. All rights reserved. No part of this
document may be photocopied, reproduced, or translated to another language without the
prior written consent of Hagerman Technology LLC.
FryKleaner™is a trademark of Hagerman Technology LLC.
Disclaimer
The information contained in this document is subject to change without notice.
Hagerman Technology LLC shall not be liable for errors contained herein or for
consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or use of this
material. See Chapter 6 for warranty information.

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1 Before You Begin
Description
Congratulations! You have just purchased one of the highest performance-per-dollar
audiophile products available. The FryBaby audio system conditioner is a burn-in signal
generator designed especially for cables and interconnects. It can also be used to burn-in
linestages, phonostages, and amplifiers. The sophisticated electronic waveform – a
combination of wideband noise and variable frequency amplitude modulation – is
designed to provide maximum effectiveness without resorting to high power levels.
FryBaby is part of the FryKleanerTM series of professional cable burn-in generators.
The FryBaby half-kit consists of a blank circuit board, LED dome lens, lens ring, four
screws, some wire, and these instructions. To complete, you must purchase the
remaining parts yourself from Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com).
Features
• Unique signal waveform
• Three output levels
• iRIAA equalized for MC and MM phonostages.
• Includes power supply
• Breaks in both cables and electronics
Tools
You will need a few basic shop tools (screwdriver, pliers, wire cutters, etc.) and a fine-tip
soldering iron to build this kit.

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2 Parts to Buy
Parts List
The following parts should be purchased from www.mouser.com.
Component Qty Mouser Reference Designators
1N4148 4 512-1N4148 D2, D3, D5, D6
LED 1 604-WP59EGW D4
2N3904 2 512-2N3904TF Q1, Q2
ICL7662 1 513-NJU7662D U3
LM358 2 513-NJM2904D U1, U2
LM13700 1 513-NJM#13700D U4
LF347 1 595-LF347N U5
47uF 25V 10 140-XRL25V47 C4, C8, C9, C10, C21, C11, C13,
C20, C3, C5
100nF 5 80-C410C104M5U C15, C16, C17, C1, C7
3.3nF 1 80-C430C332J1G C19
1nF 1 80-C410C102J1G C18
100pF 1 80-C410C101J1G C22
Switch Rotary 1 105-SR1712-24NS S1
Case 1 635-H-659VTR-GR
Knob 1 45KN015
RCA Jack 2 161-0252-EX J1, J2
3.5mm DC Jack 1 16PJ011 J3
Wall Wart 1 412-109011
RCA-to-RCA 1 171-ADRJRJ
100 ohm 10* 299-100-RC R31, R43, R4, R19
1k 2 299-1K-RC R42, R37
2.2k 1 299-2.2K-RC R38
4.7k 2 299-4.7K-RC R39, R34
10k 10* 299-10K-RC R44, R26, R30, R29, R35, R36, R7,
R22
47k 10* 299-47K-RC R6, R9, R12, R20, R8, R23, R28,
R45
100k 10* 299-100K-RC R1, R10, R14, R11, R21, R25, R27,
R32, R40
1M 1 299-1M-RC R41
* Minimum quantity.

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3 Assembly & Test
Casework
The case needs to be prepared for assembly.
 On the top cover, mark a spot along the centerline 2.5 inches back from the outer
edge (open side). Drill a 3/8” hole.
 Mark another spot 1 inch back from outer edge. Drill a 9/32” hole.
Drill these holes in case.
 On the front plate, mark the center. Drill a ¼” hole.
 Mark two more spots ¾” from middle point, along centerline. Drill a ¼” hole at each
spot.
Chassis pieces after drilling.

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 Mount the 3.5mm dc power jack into the center hole on front plate. Textured side
faces outward.
 Mount the two RCA jack to the other holes. Orient as shown and tighten.
Front plate assembly.
 Insert the battery terminal clips into the bottom half of case.
 Insert the plastic LED dome lens into the top half of case. Secure in place with the
black plastic ring.
Circuit Board
Assemble the circuit board in the following order. Use the stuffing guide in the back of
this manual. Solder and clip leads before continuing.
 Install all resistors, diodes, and axial leaded capacitors.
 Install integrated circuits.
 Install transistors.
 Install LED. Short lead towards rotary switch.
 Install electrolytic capacitors.
 Install rotary select switch. Make sure it is inserted fully and is flush with board.
Integration
 Mount circuit board into bottom plastic using the four supplied #4 screws.
 Solder short lengths (about ¾”) of bus wire into the holes at the front edge of the
circuit board. They are labeled OUT and DC.
 Solder short wires into the 9V and unlabeled ground hole (next to it) at the bottom of
the board.
 Solder the 9V wire to the “+” battery terminal on the case (nearest).
 Solder the ground wire to the “-“ battery terminal.

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Case with board installed.
 Insert a battery for testing. Turn the switch to the right. The LED should start
blinking red. Remove battery.
 Mount the front plate assembly into the bottom case plastic.
 Solder the short bus wires to their respective terminals on the jacks, as shown. The
ground tabs on the RCA jacks will need to be bent over.
Front plate wiring.
 Mount top cover and secure in place with four screws.

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 Add battery cover.
Testing
Once plugged in and turned on, the LED should start flashing. The best way to test is to
connect one of the outputs to an oscilloscope and observe the waveform. It should be a
sweeping modulated noise source as in the photo below, a distinctive bowtie shape. Of
course, not everyone has an oscilloscope. You can also check operation by setting output
level to LINE and connecting to one of the line level inputs to your audio system. You
should hear what sounds like a pulsing inter-station FM noise.
Oscilloscope photo of FryKleaner signal.

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4 Operation
The FryBaby’s control knob sets the manner of operation. MC selects an output level
suitable for driving moving coil phonostage inputs (-60dB), MM for moving magnet
phonostages (-40dB), and LINE for everything else. The FryBaby runs off of the internal
battery whenever the wall-wart supply is not used, with the LED blinking at the rate of
modulation. There are two modes of cable burn-in, voltage and current. Both are
required for maximum effectiveness.
In voltage mode the cable dielectric is excited by electric fields. Leave the far end of the
cable open-circuited (see diagrams in following section). In current mode, the cable is
short circuited, and conductors are exercised via magnetic fields. Short-circuit the far end
of the cable or form a loop by returning the cable to the other FryBaby output. Current
mode is not applicable when using the FryBaby to burn in amplification.
It is best to do a voltage burn for 24 hours followed by a current burn for 48 hours. Thus,
a typical stereo interconnect pair will require on average two batteries. Note: silver
conductors typically take twice as long! Battery operation is inherently self-timed, in that
when the battery dies, the FryBaby output stops.
The FryBaby can burn in a stereo pair of interconnects by using the female-to-female
adapter at the far end. First, do a voltage burn by connecting the interconnect pair directly
to the FryBaby outputs. Set to LINE. After the voltage burn, do a current burn by
inserting the adapter to close the loop.
Amplification electronics are burned in using voltage mode. Connect the FryBaby
outputs to the inputs on your phonostage (you’ll need an interconnect). Set the output
amplitude to either MC or MM, depending on the gain of your phonostage. This sets the
burn-in signal to the correct amplitude and equalization. For linestages or other types of
amplifiers, use the LINE level output. Amplifier must be powered on.

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5 Specifications
The following specifications are subject to change without notice.
Item Specification
Output Voltage 1Vrms (LINE), 10mVrms (MM), 1mVrma (MC)
Current Limite 10mA
Signal Bandwidth 10Hz to 100kHz
Battery Life 33 hourse (alkaline)
AC Voltage 120Vac 60Hz