Husqvarna Classica 90 User manual

Survey
of
the
machine
1.
Hance
2.
Thread tension
dial
3.
Thread
guide
4.
Thread
tension discs
5.
Thread
take-up
lever
6. Presser
foot
pressure
dial
7.
Front
thread
guide
with
thread
take-up
spring
Sewing
light
Needle
bar
Needle
Needle
plate
(stitch
plate)
Feed
dog
13.
Free
arm
14.
Bobbin
case
1 5.
Thread
cutter
16.
Shuttle
(hook)
17.
Door
for
shuttle
18.
Base
plate
19.
Presser
bar lever
20,
Needle
clamp
screw
21.
Presser
bar
22.
Presser
foot
ankle
23.
Presser
foot
24.
Drop
feed
button
Recommended
stitch
length
Spool
pins
Stitch
length
dial
Stitch
selector
Handwheel
Bobbin winding
spindle
Thread
guide
for
bobbin
winding
Main
switch
Reverse
feed
button
Socket
for
foot
control
Thread
cutter
Screw
for
edge
guide
Unpacking
Place
the
machine
on
the
table and
remove
the
packing.
Wipe
the
machine
clean
before
you
start
sewing,
and
be
especially
careful
with
the
stitch
plate
and
the
space
around
the
needle.
The
machine
is
equipped
with
a
number
of
presser
feet
and
these
are
packed
in
two
plastic
bags.
We
reserve
the
right
to
change
the
equipment
of
the machine
without
prior
notice.
Putting
the
machine
away
Pull
the
plugs
out
of
the
wall
outlet
and the
socket
of the machine.
Wind
the
cords
around
the
foot
control
and
place
the foot control
over
the
free arm.
Lower
the
presser
foot.
x —
—
—
8.
9.
10;
11.
12.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.

Connecting
the
foot
control
Place
the
foot
control
under the
table.
Insert
the
foot
control
plug
with
the
marking
UP upward
into
the
socket
on
the
right-hand
side
of
the machine.
Connecting
to
the
wall
outlet
The voltage
(V)
and
frequency
(Hz)
are indicated
under
the base
of
the
machine. Check that
these
values
corre
spond
to
those
of
the
electricity
source
before
connecting
the machine.
Free
arm
Trouser
legs
and
sleeves
can
be
drawn
onto
the free
arm,
making
it
easy
to
sew, mend
or
patch
these
parts.
The free
arm
also
makes
it
much
easier
to
attach
collars
and cuffs
as
well
as
sew
children’s
clothes,
or
darn
socks
and stockings
on
the machine.
Main
switch
The light
and
the machine are
turned
on
by
pressing
the
inner
part of
the
main
switch.
Reverse
feed
button
As long
as
you
keep
the
reverse
feed button
depressed
the machine
will
sew in
reverse
but
will
revert
to
ordinary
sewing
as
soon
as
you
release
it.
Excellent
for
fastening
_______
off.
Presser
bar
lever
By
means
of
the
presser
bar
lever
at
the
rear
of
the
machine, the presser
foot can
be raised
and
lowered.
When
raising,
the
presser
foot
will
remain
in
the raised
position, but the height
can
be
increased
by 3
mm by
pushing
the presser
bar lever upward
and
holding
it
in
this
position. This is
useful
when
you want
to
put garments
with
thick
seams
under the presser
foot.
The
presser
foot should be
lowered
while
sewing.
Presser
foot
pressure
The presser
foot
pressure
can
be
adjusted
with
the
aid of
amarked
dial
on
the
left
side
of
the machine.
Normal
pressure
is
obtained
by
setting
the
dial
at
the
white
dot.
The higher
the number,
the
greater
the
pressure.
By setting
the
dial
at
the
symbol
the
presser
foot
pressure
is
completely
released.
This
setting should
be
used
when
free-hand
sewing
with
the
darning
foot
(extra
accessory),
i.e.
darning, monogramming,
machine
embroidery
and quilting.
If
you
turn
the
graded
dial for
the
presser
foot
pressure
to
the
lowest
number,
it
is
possible
to
darn
with
presser
foot
A.
Lower
the
feed
dog and
move
the fabric forward,
back
ward
and
sideways
by
hand.
Lowering
the
feed
dog
You
lower
the
feed
dog
by
pushing
in
the
upper
part
of
the
push-button.
In
order
to
raise
the
feed
dog again
push in
the
lower
part.
The
feed
dog
should
be
lowered
for
a
certain
type of
darning
and
when
sewing
on
buttons.
It
is
also
easier
to
get
thick
garments
under
the
presser
foot
if the teeth
of
the
feed
dog
are
not
above
the
level
of
the
stitch
olate.

emoviflg
the
bobbin case
open
the door
in front
of
the
shuttle
by means
of
the
small
recesS
on
the
left side.
GriP
the
bobbin
case
with
the
thumb
and
index finger
so
that
the
latch
is
depressed
and
pull
the bobbin case
out.
The
bobbin
will
remain
in
the
case
as
long
as
the
latch
is
dePress&J When
you
release
the
latch,
the
bobbin
will
be
released.
Bobbin
winding
Turn
the
empty
bobbin
until
the
small
round
mark
on
one
side
15
outward.
Slide
the
bobbin
onto
the
bobbin
winding
spindle
located
n
the
right
side
of
the
machine. Raise
the
presser foot
and
pull
the
thread
from
the
thread
guide
on
the
needle
clamp
through
the
thread
guide
on
the
right
of
the
machine
to
the
bobbin.
Wind
the
thread
around
the
bobbin a couple
of
times,
eginnmg
from
underneath,
you
are
using
a
metal
nreSser
foot,
allow
the
thread
to
go
through
the
eye of
the
eedle
and
under
the
presser
foot.
Never
run
the
thread
direct
from
the
eye of
the
needle
to the
bobbin
because
iou
will
run
the
risk
of bending the
needle.
Hold
the
thread
nd
and
lightly
depress
the
foot
control.
As
soon
as wind
ing
starts
you
can
release
the
thread
end.
threadIng
the
lower
thread
When
the
bobbin
winding
is
finished,
place
the
bobbin
in
its
case
with
the
marking
upward.
The
thread
should
run
as
shown
in
the
figure.
Slide
the
thread
into
the
slot
on
the
edge
of the
bobbin
case.
Pull
the
thread
in
under
the
tension
spring.
Check
that
the
bobbin
rotates
in the
direction
of
the
arrow
(clock
wise)
when
the
thread
is
pulled.
The
thread
must
be
pulled
in
the
direction
of
the spring,
otherwise
the spring
will
be
overloaded.
Insertion
of
the
bobbin
case
Slide
the
thread
behind
the
projection
of the
bobbin
case
and
to
the
right.
Put
the
bobbin
case
into
place.
Press
the
bobbin
case
until
it
clicks
to
ensure
that
it
fits properly. The
thread
cutter
is
located
to
the
left of
the
bobbin
case.
Hold
the
thread
end
and
draw
the
thread
from
underneath
and
up
toward
the
thread
cutter.
By doing
so
the
thread
will
be
cut
off
and
kept
in
place. Shut the
door.
Threading
the
upper thread
Raise
the
presser
foot.
Check
that the
needle
is
at
its
highest
position.
Place
the
spool
of thread
on
the
left spool
pin
and
thread the
machine
for
sewing.
Slide
the
thread
into
thread
guide
2
on
the
upper
arm
and
draw
it
upward.
Then
draw
the
thread
to
the
front
between
the tension discs
3
and
down
around
thread
guide
4.
Continue
threading by
drawing
the
thread
from
the right
into
the
slot on
thread take-up
lever
5
and draw
it down
to
the
needle,
ensuring that
it goes
through
thread
guide
6.
Thread
the
needle
from
the
front.
Due
to the
white
color
of
the
presser
foot
ankle
the
needle-eye
is
clearly
seen
and
the
threading of
the
needle
7, is
easier.
Pull
the
thread
under
the
presser
foot
about
15 cm
(6”)
toward the
rear.

Thread
cutter
On
the
back
of
the
presser
bar
you
will
find
a
notch,
the
thread
cutter,
by
means
of
which you
can
easily
cut off
the
threads
when
you
have
finished
sewing.
Tension of
the
upper
thread
The
thread tension
dial
is
graduated
from
0—10.
The
higher
the
number, the
tighter
the tension.
Normal
thread
tension
is
obtained
by
setting
the
dial
at
the white index.
It
may
be
necessaty
to
adapt
the
thread
tension
to
the
thickness
of
the
thread
and
the
type
of
fabric.
There
is
also
a
mark
on
the
thread
tension
dial
for
the
tension
that
is
suitable
for
making
buttonholes,
for
satin
stitching,
topstitching,
embroidering,
etc.
Correct
and
incorrect
thread
tension
In
order
to
easily
understand
the
importance
of
correct
thread tension,
you
can
try
different
thread tensions
by
sewing
on
a
scrap
of
fabric. Begin
by
using
an
excessively
loose
tension,
i.e.
set
the
tension
dial
near
0”.
The lower
thread
lies straight
and
the
upper
thread
is
drawn
under
neath the
fabric.
If,
however,
you
set
the
dial
at
the highest
number,
the
opposite
will
occur,
or
the
seam may pucker.
The
thread
tension
is
correct
when
the
threads
interlock
in
the
middle
of
both
layers of
fabric.
Please
note
that
even
the
best quality
thread may vary in
thickness.
When
sewing
in
fine fabrics,
the knot
may
sometimes
be
visible.
Needle
and
thread
The machine
is
delivered
with
a
spool
of
synthetic
thread,
which
can be
used
for
all
types
of
fabrics and
most
seams.
Mercerized
cotton
can
also
be
used.
For
buttonholes,
topstitching
and
darning,
embroidery
silk
s
recommended.
Always
use
needles
coded 130705K.
The
needle
fitted
in
the
machine
is
No.
80.
Two
needles
for
sewing
in
stretch
fabric
and
denim
are
specially
designed
for
the
purpose.
Always
use the stretch
ieedle
when
sewing
stretch
fabrics
and
soft
leather.
Changing
the
needle
ven
if
the
needles
look
alike
there
can
be
slight
varia
ions
which
can
affect
the sewing
result.
Be
sure
to
use
ugh
quality
needles.
DnIy
a
completely
undamaged
needle
will
give
perfect
5ewing
results.
Therefore,
change
the
needle
if
you
have
he
slightest
reason
to
believe
that
it
is
bent
or
that
the
)oint
is
damaged.
To
remove
the
needle,
loosen
the
;crew
in
the
needle
clamp.
With
the
flat
side
of
the
shank
way
from
you,
insert
the
new
needle
into
the
needle
;ocket
as
far
as it
will
go. Tighten
the screw
with
the
;crewdriver.
11

Stitch
selection
The
different
stitches
Ofl
the
pattern
scale
are
indicat
with
letters
and
symbols.
The
tjtGh
is
set
by
turning
the
stitch
selector
to
the
letter jndicating
the
required
stitch.
you
have
the
choice
of
three
different
zig-zag
WidthS.
The
5 traight
stitch
can
be
sewn
with
the
needle
at
the
center
or
left
needle
position.
The
left
needle
nitiOfl
is
suitable
when
sewing
narrow
hems
nd
when
sewing
in
light
fabrics
where
the
fabric
is
well
supported
at
the
outer
edge
of
the
needle
plate
slot.
Choice
of
stitch
length
There are
figures
under
the
stitch
symbols
which
indicate the
most
suitable
stitch
length when
sewing
normal
fabrics.
Set
the
stitch length
by
means
of
the
stitch length
dial to
the
right
above
the symbols.
The symbol
Pl
indicates the
stitch
length
which
is
best
for
sewing
buttonholes.
Always
use
the
recommended
stitch
length
to
start
with
but
experiment
until
you arrive
at
the
exact
stitch
length
for
the actual
work
you
will be
doing.
The
stitch length
can
be
varied
between
0
and
5
mm,
see
table
below.
5
j
6
A
B
C
D
E
I
II
II
I
I
‘—
1-3————-’
2-5
2-5
05-15
setting
of
stitches
Recommended
Stitch
Straight
stitch
E
—
Straight
stitch
ED
D
Range
of
use
titcn
length
t-’resser
foot*
Joining
2—2.5
A
Sewing
in
zippers
2—2.5
E
Top
stitching, tacking (basting)
4—5
A
Gathering
3—3.5
A
g
Joining
light
fabrics
2—2.5
A
Top
stitching
close
to
edges
3—5
A
!
Zig-zag
Joining
stretch
fabrics
1.5—2
A
I
A
Bound
edging
1.5
A
Sewing on
lace,
appliqués,
etc.
0.5—1.5
A
Zig-zag
--
B
Gathering
over
elastic
cord
2—2.5
A
Zig-zag
Satin stitching
0.3—0.5
A
C
Free-hand
embroidery
---
—
Three-step
zigzag
Overcasting,
darning
and
mending
1
A
F
Sewing
terry
cloth
1
5—2
A

Presser
feet
The
presser
feet
are
marked with
letters.
The
different
feet
are
used
for
different
purposes.
Presser
foot
A
is
fitted
on
the machine
at
delivery and
is
used
for
straight
stitching,
zig-zag and
three-step
zig-zag.
This
foot
has
notches
which
can
be
used
as
guides
when
sewing.
When
straight
stitching
with
the
needle
in the
center
position,
you
will
have
a 7
mm
(1/4”)
seam
allow
ance
if
you
guide
the
fabric
even
with
the outer
edge
of
the
foot;
4 mm
(/16”)
at
the
inner
edge
and
2
mm
(/32”)
at
the
innermost
notch.
Zipper
foot
E
can
be
attached to the
right
or
to the
left
of
the
needle,
making
it
easy
to sew
both
sides
of
the
zipper.
General
hints
The
best
way
to
hold
the
fabric
is
to
let
your
left
hand
rest
lightly
on
the
work
at A
and
guide
it forward.
Hold
the
edge
of
the
fabric
at
B with
your
right
hand
and
guide the
work.
Do
not
pull
the
fabric—just guide
it
toward the
presser
foot
and
let the machine
do the
feeding.
When
you
wish
to
straight
stitch,
place
the
work
so
that
the
needle
goes
down
in
the
center
of the
marking
for
the
seam. When sewing
zig-zag,
place
the
marking for
the
seam
along
the
left
edge
of
the
needle
plate
slot.
Lower
the
presser
foot,
start
the
machine gently
and
increase
the
speed
gradually.
When sewing
fine
and
soft
fabrics,
start
the
seam
acouple
of
mm
(½”) from the
edge
of the
fabric,
to
prevent it
from
being
pulled
down
into
the needle
plate
slot.
If you wish to
extend
the
seam
out
to
the
very
edge
of the
fabric,
sew
a
few
reverse
stitches
and then
hold
the
threads
behind the
presser
foot
when
sewing
forward
again.
Fasten
off
the
seam
by
depressing
the
reverse
feed
but
ton
and
sew
a few
reverse
stitches.
When the
seam
is finished,
raise
the
presser
foot,
remove
the
work
from
behind
and
cut
off
the
threads
leaving
at
least
15
cm
(6”)
of
thread
behind
the
needle.
Straight
stitching
Check
that
the
needle
is in
the
highest position. Turn
the
stitch
selector
to
the
letter
E.
Set the
stitch
length
dial to
the
recommended
basic
set
ting
2.5
but
experiment until
you arrive
at
the
exact
stitch
length
for
the
actual
work
you
will
be
doing.
Increase
the
stitch
length
when basting
and topstitching.
The
straight
stitch
is
sewn
with
the
needle
in
the
left
position
when
you
turn
the
stitch
selector
to
the
letter
D.
This
is very
useful
when
sewing light
fabrics.
They
will
be
supported better
by
the
presser
foot
and
the
needle plate
and
it will
be
easier
to
sew
top
stitching
close
to
an
edge.
It
is
also
important
when
turning
in corners. With
the
needle
in
the
center
position
it may
be difficult for
the
feeder
to
grip
the
material.
r.
0
E
2-5 2-5
LJ

Zig-zag
Check that the
needle is in the highest
position. You have
the choice of
three zig-zag
widths, 1.5,
3
and
5
mm.
Turn the stitch
selector to
the letter
indicating the
required
zig-zag width.
Recommended stitch length
1.5—2.5.
Zig-zag is
used for sewing on lace,
gathering, bound
edging, appliqués,
etc.
The small zig-zag
can be used
for joining
stretch
and
knitted fabrics.
Three-step zig-zag is recommended for overcasting,
as it
binds better and is more attractive.
Three-step zig-zag
Check that the needle is in the highest position.
Turn the
stitch selector
to
the
letter F. Recommended stitch length 1.
Three-step zig-zag is suitable for overcasting most
fab
rics, especially stretch, lightweight or loosely woven
fab
rics. It has many
advantages
compared
to ordinary zig
zag. It is more elastic and will not pucker the
edge of the
fabric. It is ideal
for sewing
terry
cloth and is also used for
darning and mending.
Buttonholes
When sewing buttonholes, change to the
buttonhole
foot
C.
This
foot has graduated markings to help
you
make the
buttonholes the same length. Decrease
the upper thread
tension by turning the thread tension
dial to the buttonhole
symbol.
Set the stitch selector and stitch length
dial at
the
buttonhole symbol. The finer
thread you use, the
more
attractive
and even the buttonhole will
be. Make a
mark on
the fabric where
you wish to begin
the
buttonhole.
Always
test sew
abuttonhole and adjust the stitch
length
setting, Insert
the fabric under the presser foot, remem
bering that
the machine will begin
to
sew in reverse.
Set the stitch selector
to 1
The machine
sews the first
column in
reverse.
Stop when
you
reach
the cor
rect column length.
Turn
to
2—4.
Turn
back
to 2—4. The
machine
will
Now the machine will form the bar tack.
form the final bar tack.
Sew three
or four
Sew three or four stitches. stitches.
Turn to 1 and lock
the
threads
in the first column.
Precision
setting
By means
of
a
screw
on top of the machine, under
the
handle, the
tightness of the
columns can
be adjusted. If
the left
column
is tighter than the right
one, tighten the
screw slightly.
If the right
column is tighter than the
left
one, loosen
the screw
sliqhtlv.
I
I
iE24 1
—
F
OS 15
A
B
A7
2F
3 241 Q
I
2
U
Turn to
3.
Sew the other
column
the
same
length
as the
first one.
2
U

Corded
buttonholes
A
small
cord
can
be
used
to
sew
buttonholes
in
elastic
material,
in
order
to
keep
the
shape
better.
Attach
the
cord
around
the
projection
at the
heel
of the buttonhole
foot
as
5 own
in
the
illustration
and
sew
the buttonhole
in the
normal
way.
In
heavy
garments
you
can
sew
reinforced
buttonholes
by
5 ewing
the columns
twice
and
the bar
tacks
the
second
time.
Cutting
the buttonhole
pierce
the
fabric
at
a
right
angle
until
the curved blade
edge
reaches
down
to the
buttonhole.
With
the
knife
more
or
less
parallel
to
the
fabric,
push
forward,
taking
care
not
to
cut
the columns
of
the
buttonhole.
The
small red
bead
serves
as
a
guide.
Cut
the
buttonhole
to
the
middle
and
then
repeat
the
cut
from
the
other
direction.
sewing
on
buttons
Lower
the
feed
dog.
Remove
the
presser
foot,
put
the
button
in
place
and
lower
the presser
bar.
Set
the
stitch
selector
at
the
widest
or intermediate
zig-zag.
Turn
the
handWheel
toward
you
and
test
carefully
that
the
needle
enters
the
first
hole
and then
the
other
hole.
Sew
five
or
six
stitches.
Move
to
the other
holes
and
repeat.
Set
the
needle
to
straight
stitch
in
the
left
needle
position
and
fasten
the
threads
with
a
few
stitches.
When
a
“shank’ is
required,
use
the
button
reed
as illus
trated.
Changing
the
light
bulb
The
light
is
located
to the
left of
the
needle.
To
remove,
press
the
light
bulb
upward,
turn
a quarter
turn
in
the
direction of the
arrow.
To
insert
the new
light
bulb,
push
it
upward
and
turn
it
a
quarter
turn
in
the
opposite
direction.
The
wattage
of
the
bulb
is
indicated
on
the rear
of
the
machine.
Care
of
the
machine
If
you
want
to
clean
the
machine,
remove
the presser
foot
and
lower
the
feed
dog.
There
is
a recess
in
the
free
arm
to
the
right
above
the
hook
cover.
Push
the stitch
plate
straight
up
and backward
at the
same
time
until
it loosens.
Clean
between the
teeth
of
the feed
dog
with
the
brush.
When
replacing the
stitch
plate, insert
it
from
behind
into
the
recess
in
the
arm.
Ease
the
front
edge
up
onto
the
small
pin
and
continue
to
push
it forward
until
it
snaps
into
place.
Belts
3elt
adjustment
is
not
required.

Why
haven’t
I
got
the
results
I
expected?
Always
start
by
checking the
needle
An important part
which
needs
to be
changed
from
time
to
time is
the
needle.
Always
start with
a new
needle
as
soon
as
you
discover that
a
seam is
not
what you
expected.
Check that
it
is correctly
inserted.
Unattractive
stitches
The
thread tension
is
not
correct.
See
page
4.
The machine
may
be incorrectly
threaded.
The
correct threading
is
shown
on
page 3.
If
the machine
skips
stitches,
change
to
a
stretch
needle.
Wrong
upper
thread.
It
should be
of the
same
thickness
as
the
lower
thread.
Bobbin
wrongly
inserted
in the
bobbin
case.
See
page
3.
The needle
breaks
You
may have
helped the machine
to
feed
by
pulling
the fabric.
The
needle
can easily
strike
against
the
needle
plate and
break.
The
upper
thread breaks
Check
the
thread
spool to
see
that
it
has
not
caught
in
any
way.
The
needle eye
may
have
sharp
edges
which cut
the
thread.
If
so,
change
the needle,
See
page
4.
Use
a
stretch
needle
for stretch
fabrics and
soft
leather.
The upper
thread
is incorrectly
threaded.
See
page
3.
The upper
thread
may have
too much
tension.
Refer
to
thread tension,
page
4.
The thread
is knotted.
The
hole
in
the needle
plate
may
be chipped and
have
sharp
edges.
Replace
the needle
plate.
Lower
thread
breaks
The
bobbin case
is incorrectly
inserted.
See page
3.
The lower
thread
may be incorrectly
threaded. See
page
3.
The
bobbin
is overwound.
Uneven
thread tension
This
may be
due
to poor quality
thread.
Irregular
bobbin
winding
The bobbin
is not
placed
correctly.
See
page
3,
The
machine
is
not correctly
threaded
for
bobbin
winding.
See
page
3.
The
fabric
puckers
The
upper
thread
tension
is
too
tight.
See
Page
4
for correct
thread tension.
The machine
does
not feed
the
fabric
The stitch
length is
too
short.
Turn
the
stitch
length
dial to
a
higher
number.
The feed
dog
may be
lowered.
Raise
it
by
Pressing
the
lower
part
of the
feed
dog button.
See
page
2.
The presser
foot
pressure
is
disengaged. See
page
2.
The
feed
dog
is full of
dust
and
dirt.
Clean
with
the
brush.
See
instructions
above.
Machine
runs sluggishly
Dirt
or lint
has fastened
under
the
needle
plate.
Loosen
the needle
plate and brush
clean
between
the
teeth
of the feed
dog.
See
instructions
above.
Dirt
or lint
has fastened
in
the hook.
Remove
the
bobbin
case
and clean
with
the
brush.
See
instructions
above.