HYDE MUDGUN Series User manual

MUDGUN™
Drywall Finishing System
Quick Start Guide
Hyde Tools, Inc. / A Hyde Group Company / 800-872-4933 / custr[email protected] / hydetools.com
Watch the
demonstration
video online at
hydetools.com

Thank you for investing in a HYDE®MudGun™system. Regardless of your past expertise
(or frustration!) with drywall repair, this system will help you tackle drywall taping quickly
with much less mess, and achieve a more consistent professional finish every time.
This booklet is set up in two sections. Be sure to consult the section for the model
you’ve purchased.
MudGun™Small Repair (for model #09600)
This section (page 3) provides step-by-step instructions for using your MudGun™
with a MudPak™(premixed drywall compound) to complete two types of jobs:
• Flat surface repairs for areas that do not involve corner joints
• More complex repairs that do involve corner joints
MudGun™Pro (for model #09610)
This section (page 13) provides step-by-step instructions for loading drywall mud from
a 5-gallon bucket and completing larger taping jobs:
• Finishing/taping full rooms
• Small remodeling projects involving butt and/or corner joints
• Larger coverage areas where 5 gallon buckets of drywall compound are more
economical
Before using your MudGun™, please use the illustrations provided for each model to
familiarize yourself with the items enclosed and read the instructions in full for the type of job
you are tackling. For best results, be sure to read the Tips & Tricks in the boxed areas next to
each step to avoid mistakes and achieve better results.
For more problem-solving tools from Hyde, visit us online at hydetools.com or
thehydeway.com.
Sincerely,
Corey Talbot
Vice President of Marketing and Product Development
Hyde Tools, Inc.

3
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System Contents
AMudGun™
 Trigger  Mud tube
 Brake  Mud tube front ring
 Plunger rod  Mud tube back ring
Embedding tools
BFlat joint nozzle CInside corner nozzle
Finishing tools
DT-adapter F6-inch joint knife
E7-inch finishing head GInside corner smoothing tool
 Front HTool cleaning brush
 Slide adjuster
 Adjustable crown/contour
 Skid pads
You will also need:
• Drywall repair patch or a patch • Damp rags
board larger than the hole • 220-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge
• Drywall saw or utility knife • Straight edge (ex: yard stick)
• Joint tape • MudPaks™(sold separately)
(paper or adhesive mesh)
• 5-gallon bucket filled with
4 inches of water
MUDGUN™SMALL REPAIRS (model #09600)
A
B
FG
H
C D
E









TIP
The bucket is for resting your
MudGun™to keep it clean and
free flowing for the duration
of the job. You may also want
a second bucket of water for
washing your hands and tools
and keeping rags damp.
TIP
There are many types of
drywall tape. We recommend
using mesh or pre-scored
paper tape with this tool.
4 5
TIP
Before starting, check to see if your existing drywall is 1/2 or 5/8 inches thick. For flat surface repairs, always
use a patch board with the same thickness as your existing drywall and use only cut edges, not the tapered
(manufactured) edge for repairs.
TIP
Check with your local home improvement store for a small piece of drywall to avoid having to purchase full sheets.
MAKING A FLAT SURFACE REPAIR
Follow these instructions for repairs that do not involve corners – meaning the angled joint between
a wall and ceiling or between two walls. See More Complex Repairs (page 10) if your job involves a
corner joint.
PATCHING INSTRUCTIONS
For holes under 8 inches (203mm), use a drywall repair patch at least two inches larger than the hole,
providing 1 inch of overlap on all sides. Follow directions on the package to apply it to the wall.
For larger repairs, cut a drywall replacement patch board slightly larger than the hole. Place the
patch board over the hole and trace its outline on the wall in pencil. Use a drywall saw or utility knife
to square up the hole in the wall. Remove any debris from the edges. Screw the replacement board
securely to the framing behind the wall. You are now ready to tape the repair.
CUT EDGE TAPERED EDGE
TIP
For best results, use this guide when using the MudGun™Finishing Head.
Finishing Head Settings Crown
On Slide Adjuster Thickness Recommended Uses
0 flat
• Center pass on Butt Joints after feathering sides.
• Taper Joints if 2nd pass is needed due to mud having cracks.
1 1/64"
•Feather Butt Joints, but 2 is recommended in case sanding needed.
•Finish Taper Joints if doing feathering on sides.
2 2/64"
•Finish Taper Joints with one pass (mud may crack due to thickness.)
3 3/64”
•First coat bead, centered over slightly uneven joints.
•Slightly uneven wall repairs where filling is needed.
Note: May have cracking that needs to be filled with another coat set on 0.
4 4/64"
•First coat bead, centered over moderately uneven joints.
•Moderately uneven wall repairs where filling is needed.
Note: May have cracking that needs to be filled with another coat set on 0.
5 5/64"
•First coat bead, centered over heavily uneven joints.
•Heavily uneven wall repairs where filling is needed.
Note: May have cracking that needs to be filled with another coat set on 0.
Unlock •Releases Slide adjuster and Adjustable Crown/Contour for cleaning
543210

a
b
c
TAPING INSTRUCTIONS
Loading the MudGun™
1. Remove the front ring. (illustration a)
2. Point the MudGun™down and rest it on the floor or a flat surface.
3. Hold the MudGun™by the handle with your thumb resting on the brake.
Depress the brake and, with your other hand, pull the plunger rod until
it is fully extended. (illustration b)
4. Slide the MudPak™(sold separately) into the mud tube. (illustration c)
5. Cut the clip off the end of the MudPak™with a knife or scissors.
(illustration d)
6. Place the flat joint nozzle on the front of the MudGun™. (illustration e)
7. Replace the front ring and tighten. (illustration f)
Note: You will repeat this process every time the MudPak™is empty.
d
e
f
6
1. Starting top down, pull the nozzle down the length of a repair seam,
slowly pumping the trigger to apply a generous (and continuous) coat
of mud to the entire joint. (illustration g)
2. Turn the MudGun™and cover the horizontal seam, overlapping the
corner for full coverage. (illustration h)
3. Repeat this process for the two remaining seams.
4. Rest the gun in a bucket of water with the nozzle submerged until you
need it again.
5. Cut drywall tape to the correct length.
6. Press the back of the tape (the rough side) into the mud, fully covering
each seam (illustration i). Do not overlap tape at the corners.
7. Use the 6-inch putty knife to smooth and firmly seat the tape, squeeze
excess mud out from under the tape and reapply it over the tape as a
thin first coat. (illustration j)
8. Let dry for up to 24 hours. See compound manufacturer’s instructions.
i
j
g
h
TIP
Always squeeze mud out in one direction to avoid tape bunching up. If the tape has
been embedded correctly, you will see the silhouette of the tape, but not the paper itself.
There should be no loose edges.
7
Embedding the joint tape
There are several different types of tape you can use with the MudGun™. These include self-adhesive paper and
fiberglass mesh tapes, and plain paper tape where you use the mud like glue to apply it over the wall joint. Follow
these directions if you are using paper tape. If you are using self-adhesive tape, you will not need to embed the
tape. Simply apply the tape to the joint following manufacturer’s recommendations and skip to “Finishing
the Surface” (page 8.)
TIP
Don’t be stingy with the mud. When you press drywall tape into the mud, the excess
around the edges will be used to cover the tape.

543210
a
b
c
d
e
8
Installing the finishing head
1. Point the MudGun™up and remove the front ring and nozzle.
2. Replace the ring with the T-adapter and tighten. (illustration a)
3. Push the T-adapter into the 7-inch finishing head. (illustration b)
4. Set the slide adjuster on 1. (illustration c)
5. Pull the trigger until you see drywall mud emerge from the head.
(illustration d)
6. As you pump mud out for the first time, use your putty knife to spread
it across the full length of the finishing head. (illustration e)
TIP
Try to avoid marring wet mud on the first side when feathering the opposite side.
g
543210
f
9
Feathering the repair
1. Set the slide adjuster to 1. (illustration f)
2. Place the finishing head flat against the wall with the skid pad lined up
with the center of the tape. (illustration g)
3. Run a thin bead of mud along both sides of all taped joints, leaving a
gutter in the center between them. (illustrations h1 & h2)
4. If the coating is not smooth, has bubbles, or is wavy and uneven on
the edges, smooth the compound out by making another pass over the
coating using the finishing head without pulling the trigger.
5. Rest the gun in water and let the mud dry for up to 24 hours. See
compound manufacturer’s instructions.
6. After both sides are dry, set the slide adjuster on 0. (illustration i)
7. Run a bead of mud down the center of each joint. (illustration j)
8. Let the mud dry, then check the flatness of the taped area using a straight
edge. The flatter it is, the better it will look after painting. Sand with 220-
grit sandpaper or sanding sponge to eliminate imperfections and flatten
out the joint as much as possible without exposing the tape. Prime before
painting.
543210
i
h1
h2
j
FINISHING THE SURFACE
You will now use the finishing head to “feather” your repair by adding thin coats of mud on either side of the
seams. The goal is to avoid having your taped seams be noticeably higher than the rest of the wall.
Note: Before beginning this step take a moment to ensure the tape is completely embedded, and that there
are no bubbles under the tape. Remove any excess dried compound lumps or ridges by lightly scraping with
your 6" joint knife.

543210
10
Finishing joints that intersect with a corner
1. When using the finishing head to lay a bead of mud over the joint, place
the finishing head 2 inches from the corner with the back facing into the
corner. (illustration a)
2. As you dispense mud, first push the head into the corner, (illustration b)
then pull it back along the full length of the joint (illustration c). This will
avoid leaving excess mud in the corner. Complete all other steps on pages
6-7 for embedding, taping and finishing your repaired joints.
Finishing taper joints (see cutaway view – illustration d)
1. When using the finishing head to lay a bead of mud over taper (manufac-
tured) joints, set the finishing head slide adjuster on 1(illustration d).
This will dispense the right amount of mud to bring the tapered edges
flush with the level of the wall.
2. This type of joint requires only one application of mud down the center of
the joint to bring it flush with the surface (illustration e). There is no need
for “feathering” the edges as described in the previous section.
e
d
DRYWALL – TAPER JOINTS
EMBEDDED JOINT TAPE
CUTAWAY VIEW
b
a
c
11
i
j
k
Embedding tape on corner joints
1. Remove the front ring of the MudGun™(illustration f). (Or, if the last head
used was the finishing head, remove the T-adapter.)
2. Place the inside corner nozzle on the front of the MudGun™. (illustration g)
3. Replace the front ring and tighten. (illustration h)
4. Working from top to bottom, pull the nozzle down the length of the corner,
slowly pumping the trigger to apply a thin (and continuous) coat of mud
(illustration i). When you reach knee-height, stop, turn the MudGun™and
work up from the bottom.
5. Rest your MudGun™in the bucket of water.
6. Cut drywall tape to the length needed to reach from ceiling to floor. Fold it
along the score so that the rough side will be facing into the wall.
7. Starting at the ceiling, push the tape into the mud, using your fingers to
run down the entire length of the joint (illustration j).
8. Again starting at the ceiling, hold the tape in place with your finger and use
the inside corner smoothing tool to push tape fully into the corner and
pull downward (illustration k). Remove any excess mud from the tool as
you move down the joint by scraping it into the 5-gallon bucket of water.
Continue until you reach the bottom of the joint.
9. Let dry for up to 24 hours. See compound manufacturer’s instructions.
f
g
h
TIP
Always embed the entire joint in one direction. Stopping in the middle and pulling up
from the bottom of the joint will leave creases and wrinkles in the tape.
MAKING MORE COMPLEX REPAIRS
Follow these instructions if your job involves taper joints and/or corner joints.
PATCHING AND TAPING INSTRUCTIONS
The only difference between simple and complex repairs is the need to adjust for corners and taper joints.
Consequently you can follow all instructions for patching and taping a Flat Surface Repair (page 5) with the
following exceptions:
FRONT
BACK

Finishing corner joints
Note: Before beginning this step take a moment to ensure that the tape is
completely embedded, and that there are no bubbles under the tape.
Remove any excess dried compound lumps or ridges by lightly scraping
with your 6" joint knife.
1. Using the inside corner nozzle, apply a light coat of compound over the
corner joint. (illustration l)
2. Using the inside corner smoothing tool, smooth and remove any excess
mud, leaving just a thin layer over the corner joint. (illustration m)
3. Let dry for up to 24 hours. See compound manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge to eliminate
imperfections. Prime before painting.
12
MUDGUN
m
l
REPLACEMENT MUDPAKS™
Each MudPak™contains 21.5 oz. (645 ml) of premixed drywall compound for
approximately 20 feet of coverage, depending on the contour adjustment setting
you are using. Replacements are available in a 6-pack from retailers who sell this
kit, or can be ordered online at hydestore.com.
CONVERSION KIT FOR USE WITH 5-GALLON BUCKETS
OF DRYWALL MUD
HYDE®also offers a conversion kit (HYDE® item #09630) that allows your
MudGun™to draw mud directly from a 5-gallon bucket. Ask about this item at
the store where you purchased your kit, or order it online at hydestore.com.
13
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System Contents
AMudGun™
 Trigger  Mud tube  Mud tube front ring
 Brake  Plunger rod  Mud tube back ring
B Loading ring
Embedding tools
CFlat joint nozzle DInside corner nozzle
Finishing tools
ET-adapter F7-inch finishing head
 Front  Adjustable crown/contour
 Slide adjuster  Skid pads
GTool cleaning brush
H MudPak™adapter
You will also need:
• Drywall compound • 4-6 inch flexible taping knife
(5-gallon bucket) • Inside corner smoothing tool
• Utility knife • Two 5-gallon buckets filled with
• Joint tape 4 inches of water
(paper or adhesive mesh) • Pole sander with 150- and 220-grit
• Electric drill with a mixing sandpaper
attachment • 220-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge
• Damp rags
MUDGUN™PRO (model #09610)
A
B
H
G
C
F
D E










TIP
One bucket is for resting your
MudGun™to keep it clean and
free flowing for the duration of
the job. The other bucket is for
washing your hands and tools
and keeping rags damp.
TIP
There are many types of
drywall tape. We recommend
using mesh or pre-scored
paper tape with this tool.
14
TAPING/FINISHING FULL ROOMS
Taping a full room is best completed with a MudGun™PRO, which allows you
to bulk-load drywall compound directly from a 5-gallon bucket. You can also
adapt your MudGun™Small Repairs model for bulk-loading using a conversion
kit (HYDE®item #09630), available at the store where you purchased your
MudGun™or online at hydestore.com.
GETTING STARTED
There are three types of joints to be taped: butt, tapered (manufactured) and
corner joints. It’s best to tape your joints in the following order:
Butt joints are those that have the cut edges of two sheets of drywall meeting
each other. (A tapered edge meeting a cut edge is unacceptable, as it is not
possible to finish it properly.) When finished, a butt joint will not be flat. A slight
crown (outward bump) will result as you apply the tape and coats of mud over
an already flat surface. Tape these joints first.
Tapered joints are those that have one wrapped, tapered edge of the drywall
meeting another tapered edge of drywall and are easiest to finish because
they will be flat after you fill the taper in the drywall (see illustration). Normally
on walls, tapered joints run horizontally because you can buy drywall sheets
in different lengths and create one long tapered joint with few or no butt joints
bisecting it vertically. Tape these joints after the butt joints.
Corner joints are those that form a corner, such as where two walls meet or the
wall meets the ceiling. Like butt joints, corner joints won’t be flat or truly squared
when finished, since you’ll be adding tape and mud to surfaces that are already
flat. The goal with corner and butt joints is to cover the joint with a minimum
crown effect. Tape your corners last.
STUD
BUTT JOINT
TAPER JOINT
CORNER JOINT
STUD
STUD
STUD STUD
DRYWALL
DRYWALL
TAPE
DRYWALL
TAPE
DRYWALL
TAPE
DRYWALL
DRYWALL
DRYWALL
DRYWALL
DRYWALL
15
TIP
For best results, use this guide when using the MudGun™Finishing Head.
Finishing Head Settings Crown
On Slide Adjuster Thickness Recommended Uses
0 flat
• Center pass on Butt Joints after feathering sides.
• Taper Joints if 2nd pass is needed due to mud having cracks.
1 1/64"
•Feather Butt Joints, but 2 is recommended in case sanding needed.
•Finish Taper Joints if doing feathering on sides.
2 2/64"
•Finish Taper Joints with one pass (mud may crack due to thickness.)
3 3/64”
•First coat bead, centered over slightly uneven joints.
•Slightly uneven wall repairs where filling is needed.
Note: May have cracking that needs to be filled with another coat set on 0.
4 4/64"
•First coat bead, centered over moderately uneven joints.
•Moderately uneven wall repairs where filling is needed.
Note: May have cracking that needs to be filled with another coat set on 0.
5 5/64"
•First coat bead, centered over heavily uneven joints.
•Heavily uneven wall repairs where filling is needed.
Note: May have cracking that needs to be filled with another coat set on 0.
Unlock •Releases Slide adjuster and Adjustable Crown/Contour for cleaning
543210

a
b
c
Bulk-loading the MudGun™
1. Open your 5-gallon bucket of drywall compound and hold the bucket
securely with your feet. (illustration a)
2. Using a drill with a mixer attachment, mix the compound to a pudding-like
consistency (illustration b). Add water if necessary.
3. Place the loading ring in the 5-gallon bucket with its pull-ring facing up.
Push evenly until the mud comes up into the opening (illustration c). This
will remove any air pockets and ensure a smooth load of mud.
4. Remove the front ring of the MudGun™. (illustration d)
5. Place the MudGun’s mud tube securely over the opening of the loading
ring. (illustration e)
d
e
16
6. Grip the MudGun™handle (not the trigger) and depress the brake with your
thumb. (illustration f)
7. Keeping the brake depressed and the mud gun straight up, pull the
plunger rod until it is fully extended. Do not squeeze the trigger or the
plunger rod will jam. (illustration g)
8. Turn the MudGun™up quickly to prevent mud from falling out.
9. Place the flat joint nozzle on the front of the MudGun™. (illustration h)
10. Replace the front ring and tighten. (illustration i)
i
g
h
f
17
TAPING INSTRUCTIONS
There are several different types of tape you can use with the MudGun™. These include self-adhesive paper and
fiberglass mesh tapes, and plain paper tape where you use the mud like glue to apply it over the wall joint. If you are
using ordinary paper tape, you will begin by loading your drywall compound, then adding the flat joint nozzle to the
MudGun™as follows.
TIP
If the plunger won’t release, turn the handle 90 degrees to release it and try again.

Embedding the joint tape
You should begin by embedding all butt joints using your flat joint nozzle.
Once those are dry, use the same process to embed all tapered joints. Do not
overlap tape at any point in the process. If you are using self-adhesive tape,
you will not need to embed the tape. Simply apply the tape to the joint and
skip to “Finishing the Surface” (page 20.)
Embedding butt joints and taper joints
1. Starting at one end of a butt joint, squeeze the trigger and pull the
nozzle along the joint to apply a generous (and continuous) coat of mud
(illustration a). Stop a few feet short of completion and work back from
the other side to assure good coverage close to the adjoining wall.
2. Rest the gun in a bucket of water with the nozzle submerged until you
need it again.
3. Cut drywall tape to the correct length.
4. Press the back of the tape (the rough side) into the mud, fully covering the
seam. (illustration b)
5. Use a putty knife to smooth and firmly seat the tape, remove excess mud
and reapply it over the tape as a thin first coat. (illustration c)
6. Repeat this process for all butt joints.
6. Repeat the same process for all tapered joints and let all joints dry
for up to 24 hours. See compound manufacturer’s instructions.
TIP
Always check your wall and address imperfections before you begin taping, including
protruding screws or nails, loose paper or large gaps.
TIP
Always squeeze mud out in one direction to avoid tape bunching up. If the tape has
been embedded correctly, you will see the silhouette of the tape, but not the paper itself.
There should be no loose edges.
b
c
a
18
Embedding corner joints
1. Remove the front ring of the MudGun™(illustration d). (Or, if the last head
used was the finishing head, remove the T-adapter.)
2. Place the inside corner nozzle on the front of the MudGun™. (illustration e)
3. Replace the front ring and tighten. (illustration f)
4. Working from top to bottom, pull the nozzle down the length of the corner,
slowly pumping the trigger to apply a thin (and continuous) coat of mud
(illustration g). When you reach knee-height, stop, turn the MudGun™ and
work up from the bottom.
5. Rest your MudGun™in the bucket of water.
6. Cut drywall tape to the length needed. Fold it along the score so that the
rough side of the tape will be facing into the wall.
7. Starting at the ceiling, push the tape into the mud, using your fingers to
run down the entire length of the joint. (illustration h)
8. Again starting at the ceiling, hold the tape in place with your finger and use
the inside corner smoothing tool to push tape fully into the corner and
pull downward (illustration i). Remove any excess mud from the tool as
you move down the joint by scraping it into the 5-gallon bucket of water.
Continue until you reach the bottom of the joint.
9. Let dry for up to 24 hours. See compound manufacturer’s instructions.
Sand with 220-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge.
g
h
i
d
e
f
TIP
Always embed the entire joint in one direction. Stopping in the middle and pulling up
from the bottom of the joint will leave creases and wrinkles in the tape.
19

543210
a
b
c
d
20
Finishing butt joints
You will now use the finishing head to “feather” your butt joints by adding thin
coats of mud on either side of the seams. The goal is to avoid having your
taped seams be noticeably higher than the rest of the wall.
1. Point the MudGun™up and remove the front ring and nozzle.
2. Replace the ring with the T-adapter and tighten. (illustration a.
3. Push the T-adapter into the 7-inch finishing head. (illustration b)
4. Set the slide adjuster on 1. (illustration c)
5. Pull the trigger until you see drywall mud emerge from the head.
(illustration d)
6. As you pump mud out for the first time, use your putty knife to spread
it across the full length of the finishing head. (illustration e)
f
g
21
7. Place the finishing head flat against the wall with the skid pad lined up
with the center of the tape. (illustration f)
8. Run a thin bead of mud along both sides of all taped joints, leaving a
gutter in the center between them. (illustration g)
9. If the coating is not smooth, has bubbles, or is wavy and uneven on
the edges, smooth the compound out by making another pass over the
coating using the finishing head without pulling the trigger.
10. Rest the gun in water and let the mud dry for 24 hours. See
compound manufacturer’s instructions.
11. Once dry, set the slide adjuster on 0. (illustration h)
12. Run a bead of mud down the center of each joint. (illustration i)
13. Let the mud dry, then check the flatness of the taped area using a straight
edge. The flatter it is, the better it will look after painting.
14. Sand with 220-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge to eliminate imperfec-
tions and flatten out the joint as much as possible without exposing the
tape. Prime before painting.
543210
h
i
TIP
We recommend letting the mud dry and removing any imperfections by sanding. You
can, however, use a putty knife to remove excess mud or smooth out ridges before it
dries if necessary.
TIP
Using a dustfree sander will eliminate the mess of sanding.
Visit hydetools.com to learn more.
FINISHING THE SURFACE
Note: Before beginning this step take a moment to ensure the tape on all joints is completely embedded, and that
there are no bubbles under the tape. Remove any excess dried compound lumps or ridges by lightly scraping with
a joint knife.
e
TIP
Try to avoid marring wet mud on the first side when feathering the opposite side.

o
p
Finishing taper joints (see cutaway view – illustration j)
1. When using the finishing head to lay a bead of mud over taper (manufac-
tured) joints, set the finishing head slide adjuster on 1(illustration j).
This will dispense the right amount of mud to bring the tapered edges
flush with the level of the wall.
2. This type of joint requires only one application of mud down the center of
the joint to bring it flush with the surface (illustration k). There is no need
for “feathering” the edges as described in the previous section.
Finishing joints that intersect with a corner
1. When using the finishing head to lay a bead of mud over the joint, place
the finishing head 2 inches from the corner with the front facing into the
corner. (illustration l)
2. As you dispense mud, first push the head into the corner, (illustration m)
then pull it back along the full length of the joint (illustration n). This will
avoid leaving excess mud in the corner.
Finishing corner joints
1. Using the inside corner nozzle, apply a light coat of compound over the
corner joint. (illustration o)
2. Using the inside corner smoothing tool, smooth and remove any excess
mud, leaving just a thin layer over the corner joint. (illustration p)
3. Let dry for up to 24 hours. See compound manufacturer’s instructions.
4. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge to eliminate
imperfections. Prime before painting.
m
l
n
543210
k
j
DRYWALL – TAPER JOINTS
EMBEDDED JOINT TAPE
CUTAWAY VIEW
FRONT
BACK