Jaycar Maycar Robot Badge Kit User manual

learn to solder: Robot Badge Kit Cat no. KM1098 1
Thank you for purchasing the Robot Badge Kit.
This kit is part of a range of wearable badges designed
exclusively by Jaycar. Each project is powered by a
small CR2032 Lithium coin battery (Not included. We
recommend, SB2522), and the badges include a lapel
pin so you can wear it too.
Each of the designs has a different look and feel, while
the electronics involved is slightly different in each one,
so you’ll learn more about electronics and how it works
even if you build them all!
Before you start:
Open up the package and lay out the contents to ensure
you have them all based on the parts list. You should also
prepare a clean workspace and get all of the tools needed,
which we will discuss on the next page.
learn to solder:
Robot
Badge Kit
WITH TOUCH ACTIVATED BUZZER & LED EYES
QTY CAT. NUMBER PRODUCT PCB MARKING
1PH9238 CR2032 battery holder
1RR0644 1MΩ resistors (Brown Black Black Yellow Brown) R3
1RR0620 100K resistor (Brown Black Yellow Gold) R1
1RR0572 1kΩ resistor (Brown Black Black Brown Brown) R4
1RR0556 220Ω resistor (Red Red Brown Gold) R2
2ZD0150 5mm LED RED
1ZL3455 7555 Timer IC
1PI6500 8 Pin IC Socket To t 7555 IC
1RE6066 10µF Electrolyitc Capacitor
1RC5496 0.1µF Monolythic Capacitor C1
1AB3458 Buzzer
1ZT2298 2N2222 Transistor
ADDITIONAL PARTS REQUIRED (Not included)
1SB2522 CR2032 Battery
Kit contents:
Disclaimer: Content can change without prior notice. Please visit the website page for the most up-to-date information.

learn to solder: Robot Badge Kit Cat no. KM1098 2
RECOMMENDED
MAKER TOOLS
You will need
the usual Maker
essentials,
including a
soldering iron, solder, and
side cutters. A soldering iron kit is a good place to start if you
are new to electronics, such as the one we show here.
A third-hand PCB holder like the one
shown here is also recommended to
make soldering easier. This product
also includes a soldering iron holder to
securely hold your soldering iron when
you are not using it, a light to make sure
you can see what you are doing, and also a
sponge to clean the soldering iron tip.
Soldering guide:
Before you solder for the rst time, read the following
instructions. We also recommend you watch our Soldering
tutorial video on our YouTube Channel or by visiting:
www.jaycar.com.au/safe-soldering-for-kids
First, a note about safety. A soldering iron
can get very hot and can easily burn
you if you touch the hot end. Make
sure you only have the soldering
iron turned on when you need it
and off when you don’t. Keep it in a
soldering iron stand when not in use
to avoid it falling off your workbench.
Keeping the soldering iron tip clean is
important to create a reliable solder joint.
To prepare your soldering iron tip, turn on the iron and give
it a few minutes to get sufciently hot enough to melt solder.
Touch some solder onto the iron tip so that the solder and ux
(a component of the solder responsible for keeping the joint
clean and “owy”) cleans any rust or dirt off the tip of the iron.
Once you have some solder on the soldering iron tip, you need
to remove it so you are left with a simple clean and shiny
soldering iron tip. You can do this by wiping
the tip onto a damp sponge or rag. (Don’t use
a plastic sponge as it will melt).
If you have a soldering iron tip cleaner that has
a curly brass type cleaner, then stab the tip into
that to clean the tip.
You should now have a clean and shiny soldering iron tip
ready to solder. Use the above tip cleaning process during the
soldering process to keep your soldering iron tip clean.
Jaycar stocks a wide range of solder should you run out. For
example, the NS3013 Hobby Tube.
A GOOD SOLDER JOINT
In simple terms, soldering is joining
two metals together with solder.
In our case, we are soldering each
leg of the components to the
solder pads on the circuit board.
Soldering a component to the
circuit board is a matter of placing the
soldering iron tip against the component’s
leg and the solder pad on the circuit board for a couple of
seconds. This will allow the metals to reach the required
temperature for soldering. You can then quickly add solder by
touching the solder to the pad or lead of the component you’re
soldering (not to the soldering iron tip).
This process needs to be done within a few seconds as you
can damage the component you’re trying to solder if heat is
applied for too long. If the solder joint isn’t great move on to
a different component and let the bad joint cool down before
trying to solder it again.
A bad solder joint may cause your project not to work. If the leg
of the component you are soldering doesn’t reliably join to the
circuit board’s solder pad, the electrical current won’t be able to
ow when you apply power.
The diagram here shows you a good solder joint and two
bad solder joints. A good solder joint is clean and shiny with
a “volcano” shape, which means the component’s leg is fully
soldered to the entire solder pad on the circuit board. If your
solder joint is like the one shown in the middle, it means you
have not applied enough heat to the solder pad on the circuit
board. If your solder joint looks like the one on the right, it
means the component leg was not heated enough by your
soldering iron for the solder to join properly.
TRIMMING THE COMPONENT LEGS
Once you are condent you have a
reliable solder joint, you need to
cut off the leg of the component
that you just soldered. If you don’t
cut away the component legs it
can cause a short circuit when
you apply power to your project.
Using sharp cutters (We recommend
TH1897), trim off the component leg
just above the solder joint.
Note: Make sure you’re holding the lead as you’re cutting as the
cut lead can y off when trimming causing an eye injury.
GOOD
Shiny “Volcano”
type shape
BAD
The solder pad is
too cold
BAD
Component leg
too cold
TS1652 25W
Soldering Iron Starter
Kit with Multimeter
TH1987 PCB Holder
with LED Magnier
TS1510 Soldering
Iron Tip Cleaner

learn to solder: Robot Badge Kit Cat no. KM1098 3
Construction:
STEP 1: RESISTORS
A resistor works both ways so it can be inserted into the
circuit board in either direction. To work out which resistor is
which, you can use a multimeter set to resistance Ω, or use
the coloured bands printed on them. See the parts list for
the colour bands for each resistor. The Jaycar catalogue also
has a handy colour code chart on the resistors page.
One at a time, bend the two legs of each resistor with your
hand or long nose pliers, and then insert the resistor in
through the front of the circuit board. Spread the legs out a
little bit so that the resistor won’t fall out when you turn the
circuit board around.
Turn the board around and solder the resistor legs. Make
sure the solder joints look like the “volcano” shape we
described on the previous page. Once you have soldered
both legs, trim them off above each solder joint.
STEP 2: MONOLYTHIC CAPACITOR
The supplied monolythic capacitor can be soldered into
the circuit board in either direction. Solder it into the spot
marked C1, and then trim the legs.
Front View Rear View
STEP 3: TRANSISTOR
Insert the transistor through the front of the circuit board.
Make sure you insert it the same way as printed on the circuit
board because they only work in one direction.
Turn the board over and solder the three legs. Make sure
you don’t add too much solder that you end up causing the
solder pads to join each other.
Trim the three legs once they are soldered just above the
solder joint.
STEP 4: IC SOCKET
Instead of soldering the 8-pin IC directly into the circuit
board, we have supplied an IC socket. Solder the IC socket
into the circuit board, making sure you match the notch in
the socket to match what is printed on the circuit board.
STEP 5: ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR
An electrolytic capacitor only works in one direction, so
we need to solder it in the right way. The longer leg on an
electrolytic capacitor is the positive leg and the side with
the white stripe is the negative leg. Insert the capacitor so
that the long leg (+) goes into the hole marked with the +
symbol.
Turn the circuit board over, solder the capacitor’s legs, then
trim them off just above the solder joint.
220Ω
1MΩ1KΩ
(+) (-)
100KΩ

learn to solder: Robot Badge Kit Cat no. KM1098 4
STEP 6: BUZZER
Insert the buzzer with the + symbol on its plastic casing or
a label stuck on top to match what is printed on the circuit
board. Solder into the board and trim the legs just above the
solder joint.
STEP 7: LEDS
LEDs only work in one direction. The long leg is positive (+),
and the short leg and side with the at edge on the LED’s
body is the negative (-) side. Insert both LEDs into the front
side of the circuit board so that the at edge on the LED
matches what is printed on the circuit board.
Turn the board over and solder the two LEDs. Make sure the
LEDs are sitting ush on the circuit board before you solder
them in. Trim off the legs once you have nished soldering
these in.
STEP 8: BATTERY HOLDER
Insert the battery holder rmly into the rear side of the circuit
board, matching the diagram printed on the circuit board.
Turn the board around and solder the two legs on the front
side of the circuit board.
STEP 9: LAPEL PIN
If you plan to wear this circuit board as a badge on your
clothes, you need to solder on the lapel pin onto the rear
side of the circuit board. You will need to apply enough
solder here to make sure it holds securely to the circuit
board.
STEP 10: INSERT IC
Gently insert the 555 IC into the IC socket, making sure the
notch in the IC matches the notch in the IC socket.
Cathode
(-)
Anode
(+)
Flat Edge

learn to solder: Robot Badge Kit Cat no. KM1098 5
Testing &
troubleshooting:
DOUBLE-CHECK
Before you apply power,
it is good practice to
double-check that you
have the components
in the right spot and
soldered correctly.
Make sure the IC,
electrolytic capacitor,
buzzer, and the two LEDs
are in the circuit board
the correct way. If not,
you need to de-solder the component and solder it in the
right way. See our instructions opposite about de-soldering.
Look closely at all of your solder joints and make sure they all
look like “volcanos” as we described on page 2. If not, apply
the soldering iron again and add a tiny bit of solder to make
the solder joint reliable. Make sure all of the component legs
are trimmed so they are not short-circuiting each other.
Finally, make sure you don’t have any bridged solder joints
where one solder joint has joined with another because
of too much solder. If this is the case, follow the de-solder
instructions opposite to remove the solder, and then solder
again.
POWERING IT UP
Insert a CR2032 battery (We
recommend, SB2522) and your
Robot’s LEDs should light up and
buzzer sound when you touch
the round touch plate on the
front of the Robot’s circuit board
with your nger.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
If your badge doesn’t work:
1. Make sure your battery is not at. Try using a fresh battery.
2. Recheck all of your solder joints (review the soldering
guide on page 2)
3. Make sure you don’t have any short-circuits because of
component legs touching or solder pads on the circuit
board bridged together.
If the red LEDs are dim or the buzzer isn’t that loud, make
sure you are using a fresh battery. If the LED is still dim with
a fresh battery, double-check that you inserted the resistors
into the right spots. If you still can’t get the badge to work,
you can show the circuit diagram (shown below) to an
electronics enthusiast who can help fault-nd it with you.
DE-SOLDERING
In the unfortunate event that you need to remove a
component, you need to de-solder it from the circuit board.
You will need asolder sucker (We recommend, TH1862) or
Desolder braid/Solder Wick (We recommend, NS3020) to do
this. If you are using a solder sucker, heat the solder joint to
melt the solder and use the pump to suck the solder away. If
you are using de-solder braid, you place that over the solder
joint, apply heat, and you will see the solder be soaked up
into the braid. Insert the component the correct way and
solder again.
1M
R3
100K
R1
1KΩ
R4
8
4
3
5
1
6
7
2
C1+
220Ω
R2
C2
0.1μF
10μF
Q1
VCC+
/RES
CON
GND
+OUT
TRE
TRI
DIS
3V