Kangke STAUDACHER GS-300 User manual

STAUDACHER GS-300
ARF
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Kangke Industrial USA, Inc. 65 East Jefryn Blvd. Deer Park NY 11729
http://www.kangkeusa.com E-mail: [email protected]
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]

Congratulations!
Kangke Industrial USA, Inc. brings you one of the finest ARF GS-300 models available. Skilled
craftsmen combined with top grade materials and precision jigs have all come together to produce an
aircraft with outstanding flight qualities. If you follow the directions carefully the performance of this
aircraft will surely please you.
Specifications:
Length 48.5 in.
Wing Span 60 in.
Area 690 sq. in.
Weight 7-7.5 lbs.
Engine 60-90 2 Cycle
90-120 4
Cycle
Kit Contents:
Fuselage 1
Wing panel 2
Ailerons 2
Cowling 1
Canopy 1
Belly Pan 1
PACK 1
Stabilizer 1
Elevator 2
Fin 1
Rudder 1
PACK 2
Dihedral brace 1
Servo tray 1
PACK 3
Fuel tank 1
Wheels 2
Tail gear 1
Tail wheel 1
Control horn 5
Control wire 6
Control rod 2
Motor mount 1
Hardware pack 1
Pack 4
Manual 1
Decal kit 1
Cockpit trim 1
Wheel pants 2
The following additional
items will also be needed to
build the CAP-232
HOBBY ITEMS:
4 oz. 30 min. epoxy
Hobby knife
Thin CA .5 oz.
Med. CA 1 oz.
Radio 4-channel min.
5 servos
Fuel line 20-inches
Motor (Tiger Shark .75)
Muffler
Spinner (Super Kraft 2.75”)
HOUSEHOLD ITEMS:
Popsicle sticks
Paper towels
Alcohol
Masking tape
Ruler
Felt tip pen
Screwdrivers
Pliers
RTV silicone
Sewing thread
5/32 drill
1/8 drill
Clothes pins
Read each step of the instructions carefully. Be sure you understand what is required and what the
procedure is before you glue or cut anything. How well you assemble this model will have a direct
effect on its flight characteristics.
This manual is the sole property of Kangke Industrial USA, Inc. Reproducing any part without the
consent of Kangke Industrial USA, Inc. is a lawful violation.
Warranty: Kangke Industrial USA Inc. guarantees the kit to be free of defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any parts damaged by use or modifications. In no case shall Kangke Industrial’s liability exceed
the purchase cost of this kit. Since Kangke Industrial has no control of final assembly and material used by user for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed or accepted for any damage resulting from the use by user of final user-assembled products. This kit has been
flight test for normal use. If the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, the modeler is responsible for reinforcing the high
stress points. Inspect this kit immediately after receiving it, report any missing and damaged parts within 10 business days otherwise the
claim may be denied.

WING ASSEMBLY
Remove the tape holding the servo wire pull string
from the center of the wing, work the string through
the holes in the upper wing surface and secure to
the top surface.
Trial fit the dihedral brace in its box in both wing
panels. The straight edge of the brace goes to the
top of the wing. The brace should have a snug fit,
sand lightly if necessary.
The following steps must be done quickly before the
epoxy has time to set up. Read the procedure and
gather the materials before starting.
Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy. Spread the
epoxy in the dihedral box top, bottom, and sides
about 1 inch in. The snug fit of the brace will push
it down the box.
Spread epoxy on both sides of one half of the
dihedral brace and slide it into the box. Spread the
epoxy that oozes out over the entire surface of the
wing rib mating surface and on the other half of the
dihedral brace, As well as the other wing box
adding more as necessary. Slide the two wing
halves together. Wipe off any excess epoxy with a
paper towel moistened with alcohol.
Stretch masking tape across the seam on both sides
of the wing so the tape applies pressure to the joint.
Stand the wing in a safe place and do not disturb till
the epoxy has fully cured. Mix a small amount of
epoxy and thin it 25% with alcohol, Paint the bare
wood with a thin coat to fuel proof and strengthen
the dowel pin area.
STABLIZER ASSEMBLY
Care must be taken during the installation of both
the stabilizer and the fin. Misalignment of the tail
components will make the aircraft difficult to trim
in flight.
Begin by locating the center of the stabilizer.
Measure its width at the leading and trailing edge of
the tips, make two marks in the center and using a
straight edge draw a line across the top.
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Use the same procedure to locate the center of the
firewall. This line will be used to insure the
stabilizer is square to fuselage
Slide the stabilizer through the slot in the rear of the
fuselage. Use care not to split the wood. Looking in
through the rudder slot adjust the stabilizer till the
line on its center is positioned in the center of the
slot.
Insert a pin in the top of the firewall directly over
the centerline drawn.
Tie a piece of string around the pin and pull it to the
rear corner of the stabilizer. Using the string to
measure, go back and forth between the corners
until both sides are equal and the line on the
stabilizer is still centered in the rudder slot. Using a
felt tip pen trace the outline of the fuselage on both
the top and bottom of the stabilizer. Remove the
stabilizer from the fuselage.
Lay the stabilizer on a flat surface. Using a sharp
razor knife and a straight edge slit the covering
about 1/4 inch inside the fuselage outline on both
the top and bottom surfaces.
Try to cut only through the covering, not into the
wood surface, as that would weaken the stabilizer.
Remove the covering from the center. If necessary,
use a covering iron to secure the edge of the
remaining covering to the stabilizer.
Slide the stabilizer into the fuselage slot exposing
about 3/8 inch of bare wood. Apply epoxy to the
top and bottom of the wood. Slide the stabilizer
through the fuselage to expose the wood on the
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other side, apply epoxy and center the stabilizer
using the outline of the fuselage as a guide. Verify
the alignment using the string as before, correct if
necessary. Wipe off excess epoxy with a paper
towel moistened with alcohol and allow curing.
After the epoxy has cured apply a few drops of thin
CA type adhesive in the fin slot on the top of the
fuselage and allow to cure.
FIN ASSEMBLY
Trial fit the fin in the fuselage. Use a pin stuck in
the center of the top and a string to verify its
alignment. Use a felt tip marker and mark the
outline of the fuselage on the fin.
Using the same procedure as was used with the
stabilizer, remove the covering where the wood will
be glued.
Apply epoxy to both sides of the fuselage slot as
well as both sides of the fin. Slide the fin in place
using the fuselage outline as a guide. Wipe off the
excess epoxy with a paper towel moistened with
alcohol. Verify the alignment with the string and
allow to cure.
SERVO TRAY / CONTROL RODS
Temporarily install the motor mount with 4 M-4
screws provided.
Temporarily install the motor centering it in the
mount.
The throttle push rod must travel in a straight line
from the throttle horn on the carburetor to the
firewall. Using a pencil as shown make a mark on
the firewall 1/4 inch outside the mount.
Trial fit your servos in the servo-mounting tray,
open the holes if necessary, do not mount the servos
at this time. Trial fit the servo-mounting tray in the
fuselage, be sure the throttle servo hole is on the
same side as the carburetor. The tray should fit
snugly between the fuselage sides and against the
center bulkhead. Epoxy in place when satisfied with
the fit.
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Trim the covering to open up the two elevator slots
and one rudder slot in the rear of the fuselage. The
elevator slots are located closest to the stabilizer on
each side of the fuselage. Open the right side rudder
slot only. The slots can easily be found by shining a
flashlight inside the rear of the fuselage.
Begin the elevator and rudder control rods by
bending 3 rods at a 90-degree angle 8 inches from
the threaded end. Using wire cutters cut the wire
3/16-inch from the bend. The elevator control rod
has two slots in one end, one slot in the other. The
rudder control rod has one slot at each end.
Insert the bent end in the hole with the wire in the
slot. Wrap the wire with thread, soak with medium
CA, and allow to cure. Bend the elevator rod 3
inches and 1.5 inches from the ends at the angles
shown. The rods will be installed later after the
elevator and rudder has been installed.
Drill a 5/32 hole in the firewall at the location
marked earlier for the throttle push rod.
Temporarily install the throttle servo. Make a Z
bend at one end of the throttle wire, install the Z
bend in the servo end and pass the other end
through the fuel tank opening, and out the hole in
the firewall. Make a mark 3/8-inch from the tank
opening at the wire location, and drill another 5/32
hole.
Slide the nylon outer throttle casing through the two
holes until it just passes the front wing support
bulkhead. Trim the casing 3/8-inch forward of the
firewall and epoxy in place. Install the servos
following the radio manufactures instructions.
FUEL TANK
Because the motor and carburator are completely
enclosed by the cowling it will be necessary to ad a
fill/drain line to eliminate the need to remove the
cowl to refuel the aircraft.
Insert the three tubes through the rubber stopper.
Install the inner and outer cap plates and the center
screw, do not tighten the screw. Slide the long and
one short tube in allowing 3/8-inch to protrude to
the outside. The second short tube [fill/drain]
should be 1/8-inch beyond the inner plate. Bend the
long tube as shown to the tank top bubble. Insert the
flop weight in the end of the supplied flop tube. Cut
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the flop tube just short enough so the flop weight
cannot touch the tank end when assembled. Lube
the rubber stopper lightly with cooking oil, align the
vent tube with the tank bubble and carefully insert
into the tank.
Do not tighten the screw. Set aside for installation
later.
LANDING GEAR
Install the tail wheel on the bracket using the small
lock tube and medium CA. do not get glue on the
wheel. Aligh the tail wheel pivot with the center
line of the rudder hinge as shown, secure with 3
supplied wood screws.
Temporarly install the rudder. Aligh the tail wheel
steering arm with the rudder, make a mark 3/8-inch
forward from the end of the arm.
Cut a slot at the mark to fit the rudder/steering arm
link. Epoxy the link to the rudder, allow to cure.
Cut out the wheel opening in the wheel pant. Drill
out one axel hole in each pant [be sure to make a
right and left side]. Slide the supplied threaded axel
through the wheel, and thread on a nut leaving 1/16-
inch side play. Apply one drop thin CA to the
thread to lock the nut. Slide the supplied spacer
over the axel, spread the wheelpant and work the
axel through the hole. Repeat the procedure for the
other side. Place the landing gear against the bottom
of the fuselage and determine the front,
[ the gear sweeps slightly forward ]install the
pant/wheel assembly on the gear with a washer and
nut, snug the nut.
Install the landing gear with the 4 supplied M-4
screws and washers.
Stand the fuselage on the gear and align the
wheelpants, when satisfied tignten the axel nuts.
CONTROL SURFACES
Coat the hinge pivot with petroleum jelly to prevent
epoxy from freezing the pivot. Be careful not to
coat the glue surface of the hinge.
Do the hinges for one control surface at a time.
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Mix a small amount of epoxy, using a toothpick
work the epoxy thoroughly into the hinge slots.
With a paper towl moistened with alcohol wipe the
excess off leaving only epoxy in the slots. Slide the
hinges into the slots until the pivot bottoms, epoxy
the control surface slots the same way, slide on the
control surface and allow to cure.
Apply a ¼-inch bead of RTV silicone around the
fuel tank stopper. Slide the tank up against the rear
of the firewall. Hold the tank firmly against the
firewall while you tighten the screw in the stopper.
Work a small amount of silicone around the tank
inside the fuselage at the bulkhead.
Tie a loop in a long piece of string to pinch the
elevator control rod wire to the width of the
fuselage. Slide the control rod down the fuselage,
line the wire up with the slots in the fuselage side.
Pull the string to release the wire through the slots.
Install the rudder control rod.
Screw on the supplied clevises so the rod just
passes through. Attach the bellcrank to the clevis.
With the control surface straight, align the bellcrank
so the clevis attach holes are directly in line with
the hinge pivot. Secure the bellcrank to the control
surface with the supplied screws. Remove each
screw coat with epoxy and reinstall.
Hold the control surface straight, mark the wire at
the servo arm and install with a Z bend. Repeat the
procedure for the other control rod.
Check the length of your servo wire against the
wing, if necessary add a 6-inch extension {tape the
extension to the servo lead to prevent it from
separating in the wing}. Tie the servo lead to the
pull string and work it through the wing. Install the
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servo in the wing. Install the control rod wire,
clevis, and bellcrank using the same procedure as
before.
Install the motor mount and motor. Fabricate the
throttle control wire using the same procedures as
before {be sure the servo and carburetor are both in
the throttle closed position}.
Wrap the receiver in foam and secure to the servo
tray with rubber bands. Do not secure the battery at
this time. Install the right and left aileron
extensions, label the extensions to avoid confusion
later.
Drill a 5/32 hole through the fuselage just behind
the wing opening. Slide the left over nylon outer
throttle casing through the hole allowing ¾-inch to
stick out secure with CA. Slip a 1-inch piece of fuel
line over the outside and a ¾-inch piece over the
inside. Using the antenna wire stop supplied with
your radio, pass the wire through the tube and
secure to the tail wheel with a rubber band. Do not
pass the antenna through the wing saddle. The
constant pressure can cut through the wire and
cause a loss of control!
BELLY PAN
Install the wing. Line up the belly pan with the
fuselage bottom and hold in place with tape. Secure
with the provided screws.
COWLING
Open the holes in the cowling for the cooling vents
and the spinner. Leave 3/8-inch around the spinner
hole as shown {a rotary file such as a dremmel tool
works best for this}.
Slide the cowl in place and install the spinner. Tape
a Popsicle stick to the back of the spinner as a
spacer for assembly. Locate the center of the
fuselage as well as the center of the cowl. Drill a
1/8-inch hole through the cowl ¼-inch from the rear
on the cowl centerline Insert a screw in the center,
verify the alignment with the spinner then repeat the
procedure for the remaining screws. Remove the
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cowl and apply one drop of thin CA to the screw
holes and allow to soak in {the CA will “wick” into
the wood hardening the
threads}. Locate and open the hole for access to the
glow plug as well as holes for the exhaust and
needle valve. Some engines may require opening
the side of the cowl for cylinder head clearance.
Start with small holes and slowly enlarge them for
proper fit.
CANOPY
Trim the canopy carefully along the scribed lines.
Sand the edge smooth, be careful not to scratch the
surface.
Locate the canopy for best fit, Tape securely. Drill
two 1/8-inch holes in each side of the canopy only
then secure with the supplied screws. Remove the
screws and harden the threads with CA as done
with the cowling.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Install the fuel line to the carb, vent line to the
muffler and allow the fill line to exit the opening in
the cowl bottom {the fill line will need to be
plugged any time fuel is in the tank, a correctly
sized screw will work or a plug may be purchased
from your local hobby store}. The supplied peel
and stick black trim sheet may be fit and installed
on the cockpit bottom. A pilot figure may be added
if you wish as well as any other cockpit details.
Additional paint and exterior trim such as decals
and numbers may be added. Whatever details you
add keep in mind that weight is the enemy of a high
performance aircraft KEEP IT LIGHT.
WEIGHT AND BALANCE
Nothing affects the way a plane flies more than
weight and balance. Failure to perform this
procedure may result in an aircraft that is at best
difficult to control and at worst impossible to fly.
Even small changes in the balance point make large
changes in stability. For your first flights we
recommend using a balance point at the forward
end of the center of gravity {C.G.} range, this
location will provide the most stability. As your
comfort and skill increase slowly move the C.G. aft
to increase the control response.
Lay a strip of masking tape along the top of each
wing as shown. Make two marks on the tape one 3-
1/4 inches and one 3-3/4-inches back from the
leading edge of the wing. Repeat on the other side
of the fuselage. These marks represent the limits of
the C.G. range.
Turn the aircraft upside down and support it from
between the two marks. Slide the battery pack to a
position where the plane will balance level to
slightly nose heavy. Mount the battery inside the
fuselage at the determined location. Install the on
off switch in a convenient location per the
manufactures instructions. Reinstall the wing and
check the C.G. again. If necessary add weight to the
nose or tail.
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CONTROL THROWS
With your radio on, center all trims and adjust the
clevises so all control surfaces are straight. Measure
the control surface movement at the widest part of
each surface. Use the servo horns and bell crank
holes to adjust the control throw. For your first
flights the control throws should be set to the
following:
Elevator 9/16-inch up / down
Rudder 1 ½- inch right / left
Aileron 3/8-inch up / down
Double check all controls move in the proper
direction.
MOTOR SET UP
Be sure the motor is properly broken in using the
manufacture instructions. Set the throttle throw to
shut the motor off when the trim is pulled down and
idles reliably with the trim up. After the motor is
set, run one tank of gas at full throttle, measure how
much time it takes to run the tank dry.
CONGRADULATIONS you are now
ready for test flights.
Before leaving for the field be sure your batteries
are fully charged and you have all the required
support equipment {fuel, starter, glow driver, ect.}.
Although the GS300 will fly well in wind wait for a
nice day.
At the field have a helper hold the airplane,
following the radio manufactures instructions
perform a range check of the radio. Do this with the
motor off, start the motor and do it again. Perform
this test EVERY TIME YOU GO TO FLY!
TRIMING BASIC FLIGHT
The GS300 is NOT a trainer. A true aerobatic
aircraft, it goes only where you point it and will not
recover to level flight without control input. If you
do not have high performance experience seek the
help of someone who does.
Line up on the center of the runway and slowly
open the throttle, using the rudder to maintain
directional control. Once the tail is up apply a little
up elevator and allow the plane to gently lift off the
runway. Keep the climb angle and turns shallow
until you reach a safe altitude. Reduce the throttle to
about 60% power. With the airplane flying away
from you adjust the radio aileron trim tab till the
wing stays level. Turn and line up the plane with
the runway. Adjust the elevator trim till the plane
maintains level flight. Once again with the airplane
flying away from you adjust the rudder trim till the
fuselage tracks straight {it may be necessary to
correct the aileron trim after this procedure}.
Continue to fly and trim until the aircraft is tracking
well, land before the fuel runs out. Carry a little
power on final approach until over the end of the
runway, then cut power to idle, hold the plane just
off the runway till the airspeed bleeds off and the
plane settles on. If the landing is too long add
power go around and try again, don’t try to force it
to the ground.
Now its time to zero out the trims. To do this
measure the control location, center the trim tab on
the radio and adjust the servo horn for large
changes, the control clevis for small changes. For
example if after the flight the rudder is 3/16 inch to
the right, center the radio trim and adjust the clevis
till the rudder once again measures 3/16 right. By
doing this whenever you fly, setting the radio trims
at center will result in a well-trimmed plane.
Increase the control travel, as you become more
familiar with the flight characteristics until loops
take about 50 feet and knife edge can be maintained
with 80% stick deflection. Final roll rate should be
300-360 degrees per second.
If you have followed the procedures in this Manuel
you will now be rewarded with one of the finest
flying sport models available. All primary aerobatic
maneuvers are at your fingertips and the aircraft
will perform them with ease. No further trim work
11

will be required until you are ready for unlimited
and advanced 3-D flight. Before attempting any of
the ADVANCED FLIGHT TRIM procedures you
must be completely comfortable with inverted and
knife-edge flight. The following trim sequence is
very time consuming and you may not be able to
complete it in one day. Every change made during
this procedure will affect all others so it will be
necessary to start the procedure from the beginning
after each adjustment.
ADVANCED FLIGHT TRIM
All the following tests should be performed at 80%
power unless noted.
C.G. Fine Tuning:
Roll inverted, neutral elevator, if the model
descends move the C.G. aft. If the model climbs
move the C.G. forward. Movement should be no
more than ¼-inch at a time.
Engine Thrust Angle Right/Left:
On a low pass 50% power directly into the wind, go
to 80% power and pull to a vertical line at the same
time. As the model slows do not correct the path
with rudder. If the model yaws right add 1/16-inch
shims under the right side motor mount bolts at the
firewall. If the model yaws left place the shims
under the left side.
Main Wing Incidence:
Roll to knife-edge flight, if down elevator is
required to maintain a straight line, shim the back of
the main wing 1/8-inch at a time till the elevator is
neutral. If up elevator is required shave the rear of
the wing saddle 1/8-inch at a time.
Engine Thrust Angle Up/Down:
On a low pass 50% power crosswind, go to 80%
power and pull vertical at the same time. As the
model slows do not correct path with elevator.
If the model tries to loop add 1/16-inch shims to the
top motor mount bolts. If the model tries to push
over to the wheel side, add 1/16-inch shims to the
lower motor mount bolts.
Wing Tip Weight:
Level flight into the wind, roll inverted neutral
aileron. If one wing drops add weight to the other
wing tip 1/8-once at a time.
Elevator Surface Alignment:
Fly away from you directly into any wind, apply
full throttle and pull two consecutive loops. Model
rolls right, raise left elevator, model rolls left, raise
right elevator.
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