Keller W2200 Series User manual

W2200/W2500/WU2210 SERIES
Wood Attic Ladder
Installation Instructions
Escalera de ático de madera
Instrucciones de instalación
Échelle de grenier en bois
Instructions d'installation
ESTA ESCALERA ESTÁ DISEÑADA SÓLO PARA USO RESIDENCIAL.
ANTES DE COMENZAR LEA TODAS LAS INSTRUCCIONES. SE NECESITAN DOS
PERSONAS PARA QUE LA INSTALACION SEA CORRECTA Y MAS FACIL.
SI NO SE CUMPLE CON TODAS LAS INSTRUCCIONES,
PUEDEN RESULTAR EN LESIONES GRAVES.
CETTE ÉCHELLE D’ÉCHELLE EST CONÇUE POUR UNE
UTILISATION RÉSIDENTIELLE UNIQUEMENT.
LISEZ CES INSTRUCTIONS COMPLÈTEMENT AVANT DE COMMENCER LE TRAVAIL. IL FAUT
DEUX PERSONNES POUR QUE L’INSTALLATION SOIT CORRECTE ET PLUS FACILE.
LE NON-RESPECT DE CES INSTRUCTIONS PEUT ENTRAÎNER UNE BLESSURE GRAVE
THIS STAIRWAY IS DESIGNED FOR RESIDENTIAL USE ONLY.
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING. TWO PEOPLE ARE
REQUIRED FOR PROPER AND EASIER INSTALLATION.
FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH ALL INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY.

3
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS NEEDED:
3" Lag Screws (optional)
16d Nails
8d Nails
1 x 4 temporary support slats (2
pieces approximately 32" long)
Braces with same
dimensions as joists
1/4" or 3/8" plywood for shims
TOOLS NEEDED:
Hammer
Ladder
Philips-head screwdriver
Slot-head screwdriver
Square
Tape Measure
Saw

4
STEP 3:
LOCATING THE STAIRWAY:
A. Measure and verify ceiling height (the distance
from the nished oor to the nished ceiling)
prior to beginning installation.
B. Allow sufficient area for a safe landing space
at the bottom of the stairway. Be sure there
is enough clearance for the swing of the stair as
it is being unfolded to its full length.
C. Refer to Appendix, section 1.3, page 9 to verify
that the ceiling height, landing space and swing
clearance are suitable.
STEP 1:
BEFORE INSTALLATION:
Verify that this product and its installation meet all
applicable building codes. Check stair carefully
for shipping damage. Please mark the model
name and size of the stair you purchased on the
Installation Instructions for future reference. Keep
this instruction brochure with the installed stair. You
should have experience with squaring, leveling,
sawing, and aligning structural supports before
attempting to install this unit. If you do not have the
skills to install a window frame or door unit, please
hire a professional to install this stairway. Improper
installation could result in stairway collapse and
possible bodily injury.
STEP 2:
INSPECTION OF MERCHANDISE:
DO NOT DISASSEMBLE STAIRWAY! MAKE SURE ALL
NUTS, BOLTS AND SCREWS ARE SECURELY FASTENED.
Remove cord and pull-handle from stairway, place
through hole in plywood door and knot the end.
STEP 4:
PREPARING/MAKING THE ATTIC LADDER
OPENING:
A. If it is necessary to modify an existing opening or create
a new opening, please refer to Appendix, section 1.1,
page 7.
B. Cut the rough opening through the ceiling material as
shown in Appendix, section 1.4, page 11.
C. Frame the rough opening to the size shown in section
1.6,
page 13.
STEP 5:
INSTALLING TEMPORARY SUPPORTS
It is necessary to temporarily support the stairway in the
prepared rough opening by using 1 x 4 slats that extend
from edge to edge across each end of the rough opening.
The slats form a ledge to support the stairway before it is
permanently secured. Care is important in positioning the
slats. Nail the slats below the ceiling onto the headers as
close to the edges of the rough opening as practical for
maximum strength. They should extend only 3/8" - 5/8"
(0.95 cm x 1.59 cm) into the rough opening. The plywood
panel must be free to swing open (see FIGURE 1).
The slats must be nailed securely enough to temporarily
support the weight of the stairway when it is placed in the rough
opening.
CAUTION: DO NOT PLACE ANY WEIGHT ON THE STAIRWAY
UNTIL PERMANENT NAILING IS COMPLETED
FIGURE 1 - FRAMED OPENING WITH TEMPORARY
SUPPORT SLATS READY TO RECEIVE STAIRS
CEILING JOIST
HEADERS
JOIST
TEMPORARY SUPPORTS
3/8" to 5/8" (0.95cm x 1.59cm)

5
STEP 6:
PLACING STAIRWAY INTO OPENING
A. While closed, the stairway should now be raised into the
rough opening and positioned on the ledges formed by
the slats. Working above with a helper below, raise the
stairway through the rough opening at an angle so it will
clear the slats. Position the stairway in the rough opening.
DO NOT STAND ON OR OPEN THE STAIRWAY AT THIS
TIME. Make sure you have a helper below who can open
the stairway to allow completion of the installation.
B. Using at least three evenly spaced 8d nails per side,
temporarily affix the stairway in the opening by nailing,
at an angle, the well sides to the adjacent joists. Do not
drive these nails in all the way so they can be removed
later after the permanent nailing is completed.
C. Once the temporary nailing has been completed, have
your helper below open the stairway door panel and lower
the stair sections so that the area for permanent nailing is
exposed. DO NOT STAND ON THE STAIRWAY AT THIS
TIME.
STEP 7:
PERMANENT MOUNTING OF STAIRWAY
A. Be sure stairway is square and level in the rough opening.
If the stair frame has bowed while the stairway was in
inventory, nails and blocks of wood used as shims will
straighten it. Bowing is normal since wood parts are
subjected to strong spring tension for some time before
purchase and installation (see FIGURE 2).
B. Nail the sides (jambs) of the stairway frame to the rough
opening frame, using 16d nails or 3" lag screws. Holes
are provided in the pivot plates and piano hinge brackets.
Also nail through the end boards into the rough opening
headers. Complete permanent installation by using 16d
nails or 3" lag screws to secure stairway frame on all four
sides of the rough opening according to the diagram in
FIGURE 3. Use at least three evenly spaced fasteners on
each box end and at least ve evenly spaced fasteners on
each box side. Remove the 8d nails and the slats used
for temporary support.
FIGURE 3
BOX SIDE
BOX SIDE
PIVOT PLATE
PIVOT PLATE
BOX END
HEADER
CORNER
BRACKET
CORNER
BRACKET
X- INDICATES RECOMMENDED LOCATION OF 16d NAILS 3" OR LAG SCREWS
XX
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
XX
X
X X
FIGURE 2
SHIMSSHIMS
SHIMSSHIMS STOP
BLOCK
STOP
BLOCK

6
ADJUSTING STAIRWAY TO CEILING HEIGHT
Pull stairway down applying pressure so that hardware arms are
fully extended. Open the stair sections, folding bottom section
under the middle section. The top and middle sections should
form a straight line. Aligning your ruler on the same plane as the
two upper sections, measure the distance from the bottom of the
middle section to the oor on the front and back (see FIGURE
4A). Mark the distances obtained on the front and back sides of
the ends of the bottom section.
Trim bottom sections at the proper length and angles by cutting
across them. With the bottom section cut to the proper length and
angle, joints will be tight at each section with weight on the stairs.
FIGURE 4A - ADJUSTMENT TO CEILING HEIGHTS
If either of the trim lines pass through any part of the
step, remove the 14 gauge nail between the rail-to-step
connection on both sides of ladder section. Once the
nail is removed, cut the rail ush to the underside of the
step on both sides of section (see FIGURE 4B). Gently
tap the tread side of the step with a hammer to remove
(see FIGURE 4C).
PIVOT PLATE
END BOARD
PIANO HINGE
BRACKETS
MEASURE THESE
DISTANCES
CUT ACCORDING
TO MEASUREMENT
TRIM LINE
A
AB
B
FIGURE 4B FIGURE 4C
WARNING: The bottom section must t ush with the oor. Failure to cut properly could result in undue stress on the
component parts of the stairway, resulting in serious injury (see FIGURES 5A, 5B and 5C).
STEP 9:
TRIMMING THE STAIRWAY OPENING
A. Select a molding that blends with the trim in your home: a
5/8" or 2-1/4" Clam Shell molding is a popular choice.
B. Leave a 3/8" space between the door panel and the trim
at the hinge end of the stairway to provide clearance
when the stairway is opened.
C. The balance of the trim may be placed approximately 1/8"
from the edges of the plywood door panel.
D. Your installation is complete.
CAUTION: SAFETY TIP
properly before each use.
FIGURE 5B - INCORRECT SETUP FIGURE 5C - INCORRECT SETUPFIGURA 5A - CORRECT SETUP
STEP 8:
CRITICAL STEP: Proper measurement and cutting of the ladder rails is important for
safe operation of your attic ladder. For instructional video, go to www.wernerco.com.
1
Adjusting your stairway is
accomplished in 3 easy steps:
1. MEASURE 2. MARK 3. CUT
2
3
MARK MEASUREMENTS ON BOTTOM
SECTION TO MAKE TRIM LINE

7
Appendix
CREATING A ROUGH OPENING
Section 1.1
IMPORTANT QUESTIONS
Is your ceiling and joist structure suitable for this installation?
This attic ladder can be installed in structures with
conventional wood roof frames (See Figure 1). If there is a
ceiling, you must have an access hole in the ceiling that
allows you to enter the overhead space for a pre-installation
inspection.
Roof support structures that have braces connected to the
ceiling joists or which use trusses (See Figure 1) cannot be
cut without destroying the load-bearing capacity of that
section of the roof. Do not cut joists that are part of a
braced conventional frame or truss without rst consulting
an architect or structural engineer (see the Yellow Pages
under “Architects or Structural Engineers”).
The attic ladder should not be installed in a ceiling that has any of the following:
– components of heating/cooling systems embedded in the ceiling
– joists made of materials other than wood
– metal reinforced plaster
– suspended ceilings
If your ceiling contains any of the above, do not attempt to install the attic ladder. Contact a professional for assistance
with your specic needs (see the Yellow Pages under “Heating and Cooling Contractors, Building Contractors,
Carpenters, Home Builders, Home Improvements, or Contractors-General”).
Do these instructions meet your needs?
These instructions describe how to install the attic ladder parallel or perpendicular to the ceiling joists.
Contact a professional if you want the attic ladder installed in some other direction relative to the joists.
Is your ceiling and joist structure suitable for this installation?
Ceiling Joist
Rafter
Conventional Roof Frame
FIGURE 1
Ceiling Joist
Rafter
Truss Roof Frame
FIGURE 2
Ceiling Joist
Rafter
Conventional Roof Frame with
Braces Connected to Ceiling Joists
Braces
WARNING
Do not cut these types of structures without consulting an architect or structural engineer.

8
Section 1.2
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED
Materials:
installation).
are cut.
Stepladder:
•You need a stepladder that is tall enough so that you can get into the overhead space
without stepping above the working height of the ladder. The working height of the ladder
is two steps down from the top.
plus the weight of the attic ladder.
WARNING
Be careful when using a stepladder to climb into and out of the overhead space.
Tools For Creating a Rough Opening:
Safety Equipment:


9
Section 1.3
FINDING A SUITABLE LOCATION
Before Proceeding: You must have: a suitable ceiling and joist structure, tools and materials
needed, and a level at location in the ceiling.
Goal: To nd a location free of hazards and
obstructions that will provide room for the
installation and use of the attic ladder.
Avoid installing attic ladder over other stairs.
Step 1. Pick a potential location for installation.
Check that the size of rough opening matches
what is listed in Table 1 for the model being
installed.
Step 2. If there is no ceiling and the attic ladder will
t between the joists so that no joists need to
be cut, go to Section 1.6, page 13, "FRAMING
THE ROUGH OPENING”. If there is no ceiling,
but one or more joists need to be cut, go to
Section 1.5, page 12, “CUTTING THE CEILING
JOISTS”. If there is a ceiling at this location, you
will need to inspect the area above this location
as described in steps 3 and 4.
Step 3. Go into the overhead space and nd the area above your chosen location.
This area may be located by:
A) Listening for tapping from below
B) Measuring distances from walls or other objects common to the overhead space and
the room below.
LS 2' *
SC
FC
Description:
FC - Floor to
ceiling height
SC - Swing
clearance
LS - Landing
space
* Recommended
spacing to climb
ladder
FIGURE 3
WARNING
Do not drive metal nails or other
conductive objects into the ceiling
unless you are sure they will not
contact electric wires. Contact with an
electric wire can be deadly.
TABLE 1
Rough
Opening Ceiling Height Range Landing Space (1)
Swing
Clearance (2)
W2208 W2210 (1.88 m)
(1.88 m)
WU2210 (1.88 m)
*Products sold in Canada will have model numbers ending in "CA".

10
WARNING
For your safety, watch out for overhead hazards.
Do not stand or sit on the ceiling or insulation covering the ceiling - the ceiling is not made to
support your weight.You can fall through the ceiling even though it looks solid. Only the joists
can support weight. Watch out for sharp nails sticking through the roof.
Step 4. At this location in the overhead space:
A) Check that there is enough space for you to safely move around during installation.
B) Check the overhead space for storage space adjacent to the chosen location.
If walking or crawling in the overhead space is desired, make sure that there is enough
room to do so.
C) Check above your chosen location for hazards and obstructions such as:
- Electric wire
- Pipes
- Heating and cooling ducts
- Furnaces
- Hot water heaters or other obstructions
NOTE: To check for hazards, you will need to move insulation away from your chosen
location. Wear a dust mask, safety goggles and gloves to keep your body covered
to prevent ne cuts from berglass. Gently push aside insulation to avoid stirring
up dust that may be harmful to your eyes and lungs.
Step 5. If any hazards or obstructions are present at your chosen location, look for another
location or have the hazards or obstructions moved by professionals (see the Yellow
Pages under “Electrical contractors, Heating and Cooling contractors, and Plumbing
contractors”).

11
Step 1. Prepare the room by moving furniture,
covering ooring with a drop cloth and
removing children and pets to a safe
distance away.
Step 2. Put on safety goggles and a dust mask.
These will keep pieces of ceiling particles
and dust from falling into your eyes, mouth
or nose as you make a starter hole and cut
into the ceiling.
Step 3. With a hammer and chisel, make a starter
hole near the center of the chosen location
(See Figure 4).
Step 4. Enlarge the opening with a saw until you
can see a joist (See Figure 5).
Step 5. Draw a rectangle the size of the rough
opening on the ceiling, with one
edge parallel to a joist (See Figure 6).
You may do this by sawing until you reach a
joist and use it as a frame of reference.
Refer to Appendix, section 1.3, page 9
Table 1 for rough opening dimensions.
Note: Locating at least one edge of the
opening along a ceiling joist will allow the
joist to be used as a side of the frame you
will build. This will simplify framing the
rough opening.
Step 6. Cut out the rest of the ceiling within the marked outline following these instructions:
A) Do not cut any joists at this time. Cut through the ceiling only.
B) Remove the ceiling in small pieces because ceiling material can be very heavy.
Step 7. If no joists span the hole in the ceiling, go to Section 1.6, page 13 “FRAMING THE
ROUGH OPENING”. If any joists span the hole, go to Section 1.5, page 12 “CUTTING
THE CEILING JOISTS”.
FIGURE 4 FIGURE 5
FIGURE 6
Section 1.4
CUTTING A HOLE IN THE CEILING
Before Proceeding: You must have a location that:
A) Is free of hazards and obstructions in the overhead space.
B) If free of hazards in the ceiling.
C) Provides enough room for installation.
D) Provides enough room to use the attic ladder.
Goal: To cut a correct sized hole in the ceiling at the desired location.
WARNING
Do not saw, cut or hammer into the ceiling until you are sure that the location is free of hazards
and obstructions in the ceiling and attic. Contact with an electric wire can be deadly.

12
Section 1.5
CUTTING THE CEILING JOISTS
Before Proceeding: You must have either: Exposed joists or a correctly sized hole at the desired
ceiling location.
Goal: To cut out any joists that are in the way of your chosen location. Before cutting the joists,
you must attach them to other joists in the overhead attic to keep the ceiling from sagging or
completely collapsing.
Step 1. If the room has a ceiling and you have cut
the required hole, go to Step 2.
If the room has no ceiling, you will need to
mark the joists according to paragraph (A) or
(B) below:
(A) If the chosen location is parallel to the
joists, mark the rough opening length on
top of the joists (See Figure 7).
Do not cut the joist at this mark.
(B) If the chosen location is perpendicular to
the joists, mark the rough opening width
on top of the joists (See Figure 8).
Do not cut the joist at this mark.
Step 2. Cut (2) joist-sized boards long enough to
span (2) joists on each side of your chosen
location (See Figure 9). These boards will
support the joists that will be cut and help
keep the ceiling from sagging or completely
collapsing while you are working in the
overhead space.
Step 3. Place these boards approximately 24"
from the edge of your chosen location and
nail (See Figure 9).
Note: The 24" distance is needed to give
you room to hammer nails into
the frame that you will build in the
next section.
FIGURE 7
Dotted line indicates your chosen
location (location parallel to joist)
FIGURE 8
Dotted line indicates your chosen location
(location perpendicular to joist)
Nail or screw boards
to each joist
Joist support boards
FIGURE 9

13
Section 1.5 (continued)
CUTTING THE CEILING JOISTS
STEP 4. Determine where the joist(s) should
be cut. Figure 10 shows where to mark
the joist(s) that span your chosen
location. Note that the joist(s) should be
marked back from the edge of your
location a distance of 2 times the joist
thickness (usually three inches).
This leaves room for two joist-sized
headers to be placed against each end
of the cut joist(s) (See Figure 16 on
page 15).
Note: In some homes, especially older
ones, the joists may be slightly thicker
than the lumber you can currently buy.
If your joists have a different thickness than
the lumber you will be using for the headers,
you will need to mark the joists back from
the edge of your location a distance of two
times the header thickness instead of the
joist thickness.
STEP 5. Saw through the joist(s) being careful not to
cut through the ceiling and making sure the
cut ends of the joist(s) are at and vertical.
2x joist
thickness
Cut Here
Section of joist to
be removed
Cut Here
Dotted line indicates
your chosen location
2x joist
thickness
Section 1.6
FRAMING THE ROUGH OPENING
Before Proceeding: You should have a space between the joists at least as large as the rough
opening shown on the box. Any cut joists must be attached to uncut joists.
Goal: To create a four-sided frame the size of the rough opening using joist-sized lumber. This
frame will be made of single or double thickness headers and stringers depending upon the par-
ticular installation. The frame is necessary to support the attic ladder and to reinforce the roof and
ceiling structure.
WARNING
For your safety, watch out for overhead hazards.
Do not stand or sit on the ceiling or insulation covering the ceiling — the ceiling is not made to
support your weight.You can fall through the ceiling even though it looks solid! Only the joists
can support weight. To avoid falling through the ceiling, you may want to make a working
platform by laying boards across the joist. Watch out for sharp nails sticking through the roof.
FIGURE 10

14
Section 1.6 (continued)
FRAMING THE ROUGH OPENING
Installing Headers:
If no joists have been cut, go to “Single Headers”
below.
If any joists have been cut, go to “Double Headers”
on page 15.
Single Headers:
STEP 1. Measure the header length “H” between
the joists (See Figure 11).
STEP 2. Cut 2 headers this length. Use
joist-sized lumber.
STEP 3. Place one of these headers at one end of
your chosen location (See Figure 12).
The header must t snugly between the
joists. Hammer it into position if necessary;
if it is more than 1/16" too long, trim it.
If it is more than 1/16" too short, cut
another piece.
STEP 4. Square the header to one joist and drive
(3) 16d nails through the joist and into the
header. Check for squareness and drive
(3) 16d nails through the other joist and
into the header (See Figure 12).
It is very important that header board
is vertically plumb as well as
horizontally square to side joists.
STEP 5. Position the second header 54" from
the rst one and repeat Step 4
(See Figure 13).
STEP 6. The frame for the rough opening requires
four sides. The headers make up two of
those sides. If your ceiling joists are
spaced so that they make up the other
two sides of the rough opening, check
the opening for squareness by measuring
across the diagonals. The measurements
should be within 1/8" to be considered
square (See Figure 13). If your ceiling
joists do not make up the other two sides
of the rough opening, you need to install
one or two additional pieces of lumber
to frame the other side(s) of the rough
opening, go to “Installing Stringers” on
page 16.
H
FIGURE 11
Joists
Nails
Header
Drive (3) 16d nails
into each end of header
FIGURE 12
FIGURE 13 How to check for square
Header
Header
Diagonal
measurements
Nails
54"

15
Section 1.6 (continued)
FRAMING THE ROUGH OPENING
Double Headers:
STEP 1. Measure the header length “H” between
the uncut joists (See Figure 14).
STEP 2. Cut 4 headers this length. Use joist-sized
lumber.
STEP 3. Place one of these headers against the
end of the cut joist(s) (See Figure 15). It
must t snugly between the uncut joists.
Hammer it into position if necessary; if it is
more than 1/16" too long, trim it. If it
is more than 1/16" too short, cut
another piece.
STEP 4. Square the header to the uncut joist and
nail the header to the end of the cut
joist(s) with (3) 16d nails (See Figure 15).
STEP 5. Check header for squareness then drive
(3) 16d nails through each joist into each
end of the header (See Figure 15).
STEP 6. Place a second header against the rst
header and nail it to the rst header with
(3) 16d nails between each joist
(See Figure 16).
STEP 7. Drive (3) 16d nails through the joists into
each end of the second header
(See Figure 16).
STEP 8. Repeat steps 3-7 to install headers at the
opposite end of the opening.
STEP 9. To frame the other side(s) of the rough
opening, go to “Installing Stringers” on
the next page.
STEP 10. Remove temporary support boards.
FIGURE 14
HTemporary
Support Boards
FIGURE 15
First header
Cut joist
Nails
Uncut joists
FIGURE 16
Second header
Nails

16
Section 1.6 (continued)
FRAMING THE ROUGH OPENING
Installing Stringers:
STEP 1. Measure the stringer length “S” between
the headers (See Figure 17).
STEP 2. Cut a stringer to this length. Use
joist-sized lumber.
STEP 3. If the ceiling joist does not provide one
side of the frame, then cut a second
stringer the same length as the rst one.
Note that only one stringer is needed in
Figure 17 because the ceiling joist
provides one side of the frame.
STEP 4. Position the stringer(s) along the
unframed side(s) of your location
(See Figure 18). Check that the inside
dimensions of the frame are 22-1/2" x 54"
(W2208, W2210 and WU2210) or 25" x 54"
(W2508 and W2510).
STEP 5. To attach the stringer(s) to the headers,
use nails that are long enough to go
through both headers and into the
stringer at least one inch. Square the
stringer(s) to the headers at one end and
drive (3) 16d nails through the headers
and into the stringer.
Check for squareness, then nail the other
end. Check the rough opening for
squareness by measuring across the
diagonals. The two measurements
should be within 1/8" to be considered
square (See Figure 18).
FIGURE 17
S
FIGURE 18
Headers
Stringer
Diagonal
measurements
Headers Nails
YOUR ROUGH OPENING IS PREPARED
PROCEED TO STEP #4 (page 4) - PREPARING/MAKING THE ATTIC LADDER OPENING

18
Spanish
HERRAMIENTAS Y MATERIALES NECESARIOS PARA LA INSTALACIÓN
MATERIALES ADICIONALES NECESARIOS:
Tornillos para madera de 3" (opcionales)
Clavos 16d
Clavos 8d
Tablillas de soporte temporal de 1 x 4
(2 piezas de 32" de longitud aprox.)
Refuerzos diagonales con las mismas
dimensiones de las vigas
Madera laminada de 1/4" ó 3/8" para las cuñas
HERRAMIENTAS
NECESARIAS:
Martillo
Escalera de mano
Destornillador de cabeza
de estrella
Destornillador de cabeza
plana
Escuadra
Cinta de medir
Serrucho

19
PASO 1:
ANTES DE LA INSTALACIÓN:
Verique que este producto y su instalación cumplen
todos los códigos de construcción aplicables. Revise
cuidadosamente la escalera en busca de daño por
transporte. Por favor escriba el nombre de modelo y
el tamaño de la escalera que usted compró, en las
Instrucciones de Instalación, para futura consulta.
Mantenga este folleto de instrucciones con la escalera
instalada. Antes de intentar instalar esta unidad, usted
debe tener experiencia con el escuadreo (instalación
de elementos en ángulo recto), nivelación, corte
con serrucho y alineación de soportes estructurales.
Si usted no tiene las habilidades para instalar un
marco de ventana o una puerta, por favor contrate
un profesional para que instale esta escalera. La
instalación inapropiada podría resultar en desplome
de la escalera y posible lesión corporal.
PASO 2:
INSPECCIÓN DE LA MERCANCÍA:
¡NO DESENSAMBLE LA ESCALERA! VERIFIQUE QUE TODAS
LAS TUERCAS, PERNOS Y TORNILLOS ESTÁN SUJETADOS
FIRMEMENTE.
Remueva la cuerda y la manija de halar de la
escalera, coloque a través del oricio en la puerta de
madera laminada y anude el extremo.
PASO 3:
UBICACIÓN DE LA ESCALERA:
A. Antes de iniciar la instalación, mida y verique la
altura del cielo raso (la distancia desde el piso con
acabado hasta el cielo raso con acabado).
B. Deje un área suciente para un espacio de
aterrizaje seguro en la parte inferior de la escalera.
Verique que existe suciente espacio libre para
giro de la escalera al desplegarla hasta su longitud
total.
C. Consulte el Apéndice, Sección 1.3, página 23 para
vericar que la altura del cielo raso, el espacio
de aterrizaje y el espacio libre para giro son
apropiados.
PASO 4:
PREPARACIÓN/ELABORACIÓN DE LA
ABERTURA PARA LA ESCALERA DE ÁTICO:
A. En caso de ser necesario modicar la abertura
existente o crear una nueva abertura, por favor
consulte el Apéndice, Sección 1.1, página 21.
B. Corte la abertura preliminar a través del cielo raso
según se muestra en el Apéndice, sección 1.4,
página 25.
C. Enmarque la abertura preliminar según el tamaño
mostrado en la sección 1.6, página 27.
PASO 5:
INSTALACIÓN DE SOPORTES TEMPORALES
Es necesario soportar temporalmente la escalera en la abertura
preliminar preparada utilizando tablillas de
1 x 4 que se extienden de borde a borde a lo largo de cada
extremo de la abertura preliminar. Las tablillas forman una
repisa para soportar la escalera antes que ésta sea asegurada
de manera permanente. Se debe tener cuidado al posicionar
las tablillas. Sujete con clavos las tablillas debajo del cielo raso
sobre los travesaños tan cerca como sea posible de los bordes
de la abertura preliminar para lograr máxima resistencia. Éstas
deben extenderse 3/8" a 5/8" (0.95 cm x 1.59 cm) dentro de la
abertura preliminar.
El panel de madera laminada debe quedar libre para girar y
abrir (vea la FIGURA 1).
Las tablillas/listones deben asegurarse con clavos de manera
suficientemente firme para soportar temporalmente el peso de la
escalera cuando se coloque en la abertura preliminar.
PRECAUCIÓN: NO COLOQUE NINGÚN PESO SOBRE LA
ESCALERA HASTA FINALIZAR EL ASEGURAMIENTO
PERMANENTE CON CLAVOS
FIGURA 1 - ABERTURA CON TABLILLAS DE SOPORTE TEMPORAL LISTAS
PARA RECIBIR LA ESCALERA
VIGA DEL CIELO RASO
TRAVESAÑOS
VIGA
SOPORTES TEMPORALES
3/8" a 5/8" (0.95 cm x 1.59 cm)

20
PASO 6:
COLOCACIÓN DE LA ESCALERA EN LA ABERTURA
A. Con la escalera en posición cerrada, la escalera debe
ahora subirse hacia el interior de la abertura preliminar y
posicionarse en las salientes formadas por las tablillas.
Trabajando arriba con un ayudante abajo, levante la escalera
a través de la abertura preliminar en ángulo de modo que
ésta pase por las tablillas. Coloque la escalera en la abertura
preliminar. NO SE PARE SOBRE LA ESCALERA NI ABRA
LA ESCALERA EN ESTE MOMENTO. Asegúrese de tener
un ayudante abajo que pueda abrir la escalera para permitir
la nalización de la instalación.
B. Utilizando al menos 3 clavos 8d por lado espaciados
uniformemente, je temporalmente la escalera en la abertura
sujetando con clavos, en ángulo, los lados de caja a las
vigas adyacentes. No martille completamente estos clavos
de modo que puedan retirarse posteriormente después de
nalizar la sujeción permanente con clavos.
C. Una vez que se ha nalizado la sujeción temporal con
clavos, solicite a su ayudante abajo que abra el panel puerta
de la escalera y que baje las secciones de la escalera de
modo que se exponga el área para la sujeción permanente
con clavos. NO SE PARE SOBRE LA ESCALERA EN ESTE
MOMENTO.
PASO 7:
MONTAJE PERMANENTE DE LA ESCALERA
A. Verique que la escalera está en ángulo recto y nivelada
en la abertura preliminar. Si el marco de la escalera se
ha encorvado/pandeado mientras la escalera estaba
almacenada, los clavos y los bloques de madera utilizados
como cuñas lo enderezarán. El encorvado es normal ya que
las piezas de madera están sometidas a fuerte tensión del
resorte por algún tiempo antes de la compra e instalación
(vea la FIGURA 2).
B. Sujete con clavos los lados (jambas) del marco de la
escalera al marco de la abertura preliminar, utilizando clavos
16d ó tornillos para madera de 3". Se suministran oricios
en las placas de pivote y los soportes de bisagra tipo piano.
Además, clave a través de las tablas de extremo en los
travesaños de la abertura preliminar. Finalice la instalación
permanente utilizando clavos 16d o tornillos para madera
de 3" para asegurar el marco de la escalera en todos los
cuatro lados de la abertura preliminar según el diagrama de
la FIGURA 3. Utilice al menos 3 clavos/tornillos espaciados
uniformemente en cada extremo de la caja y al menos 5
clavos/tornillos espaciados uniformemente en cada lado de
la caja. Remueva los clavos 8d y las tablillas utilizadas para
el soporte temporal.
FIGURA 3
LADO DE LA CAJA
LADO DE LA CAJA
PLACA DE PIVOTE
PLACA DE PIVOTE
EXTREMO DE LA CAJA
TRAVESAÑO
SOPORTE
DE ESQUINA
SOPORTE DE
ESQUINA
X- INDICA LA UBICACIÓN RECOMENDADA DE LOS CLAVOS 16d ó LOS TORNILLOS
PARA MADERA DE 3”
XX
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
XX
X
X X
FIGURA 2
CUÑASCUÑAS
CUÑASCUÑAS BLOQUE
DE TOPE
BLOQUE
DE TOPE