komodo KH-278 User manual

Komodo Hobby
Building Instruction
&
Manual
KH -278 Outrunner Motor Kit Version 2

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1
Introduction
Congratulations on your purchase of KH-278 outrunner motor kit version 2. It is a
modified outrunner motor kit designed for 3D aerobatics and parkflyer models.
KH-278 V.2 powered with 1.9mm-curved NdFeB magnets. It covers 80% inner
circumference of flux ring. By this latest design, the motor can deliver excellent
acceleration for hovering and performing aggressive 3D aerobetic maneuvers at high
efficiency rate. In addition, high quality hardened steel main shaft and precision CNC
rotor allows the motor running at high rpm without vibration. The three-screw lock
system at the top of end-bell can let you to install and change main shaft without
gluing, while pre-assembled end-bell and flux ring can let you to build the motor
easier and faster. We would say such easy-to-assemble motor kit is hard to find in
DIY motor world. We highly recommend this motor kit to beginner.
Warning
Radio Control Model and Outrunner Motor Kit are not toy!!! It contains sophisticated
small parts and is designed for hobby use only. All parts of this outrunner motor kit
have to be assembled and operated with great care. Outrunner motor can produce
very high power to turn gear or spindle propeller. It is capable of causing property
damage and all bodily harm to operator or spectators. If you are a beginner of motor
builder, please seek assemble and operational help from experienced motor builder.
Be Caution!!!
If this outrunner motor kit is not assembled and operated properly, it can destroy your
electronic speed control, receiver, batteries and relevant equipment completely.
Parts List
(QTY) Items
(1) Pre-assembled End-Bell and Flux Ring
(1) 23.8mm Stator
(1) Bearing Tube
(2) Ball Bearings
(1) 3.17mm Hardened Steel Shaft
(1) 30feets, AWG 24 Enameled Magnet Wire
(12) NdFeB N48M Curved Magnets
(1) Propeller Saver Hub
(2) Propeller Saver Replacement Rings
(1) O’ring
(3) Connector Pairs (Male and Female)
(7) Shrinking Tubes
(3) M3 x 4 Screws
(2) M3 x 8 Screws
(1) C-Clip

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1. Mark color to magnets
2. Place magnets inside the bell
Use marker to mark different color to North Pole
and South Pole magnets.
First, place six South Pole magnets inside the bell
and aligned it with six vent holes. Then, use a drop
of CA to secure the position of magnet.
Second, place six North Pole magnets in between
South Pole magnets. Use a small clip to adjust the
magnets until all magnets placed evenly. Then, use
a drop of CA to secure the position of magnet.

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3. Winding
It is an example of using three individual magnet wires to complete a 3-phases
system. We recommend beginners to wind 12turns for their first motor. For
experienced motor builders, they can wind more or less turns to get different
potential power. Note: Since the last turn is not a complete circle, you need to
wind 13times to get 12turns’ power. Make sure that every coil has same number
of windings.
In this manual, we would like to share another winding method with you.
This winding method can let you to use stock wire to wind a 12-16turns
motor easier. For the beginner, you should use labels marked “S1”, “S2”
and “S3” and stick on magnet wire before wind your coil.
Diagram of winding system of 9-pole stator
65
E1
E2
E3
S3
S1 S2
7
8
9
12
3
4

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Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
1: Cut a 3ft-magnet wire “S1”
2: Remain 7-8cm long magnet wire for connection
use afterward.
3: At tooth No.1, start to wind 7times from the hub to
the outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind 6times
back to the hub.
1: Cut a 3ft-magnet wire “S2”
2: Remain 7-8cm long magnet wire for connection
use afterward.
3: At tooth No. 2, start to wind 7times from the hub
to the outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind
6times back to the hub.
1: Cut a 16ft magnet wire “S3”
2: Remain 7-8cm long magnet wire for connection
use afterward.
3: At tooth No. 3, start to wind 7times from the hub
to the outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind
6times back to the hub.
1: Put the magnet wire “S1” to tooth No.4
2: At tooth No. 4, wind 7times from the hub to the
outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind 6times
back to the hub.

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Step 5
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
1: Put the magnet wire “S2” to tooth No.5
2: At tooth No. 5, wind 7times from the hub to the
outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind 6times
back to the hub.
1: Put the magnet wire “S3” to tooth No.6
2: At tooth No. 6, wind 7times from the hub to the
outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind 6times
back to the hub.
1: Put the magnet wire “S1” to tooth No.7
2: At tooth No. 7, wind 7times from the hub to the
outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind 6times
back to the hub.
1: Put the magnet wire “S2” to tooth No.8
2: At tooth No. 8, wind 7times from the hub to the
outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind 6times
back to the hub.

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Step 9
4. Remove the coating of magnet wires
5. Solder magnet wires to Delta or Wye system
Now, you can make you own decision to solder the magnet wires to either Star
(wye) or Delta system.
Star vs Delta
9Star (wye) system gives more torque and uses fewer amps.
In Star system, 1.73 less turns needs to be wound to get the same power and
Kv as DELTA system does.
9Delta system gives 1.73 higher power and amps draw compare to STAR
system.
In Delta system, the Kv is 1.73 higher than Star system while the Kt (Torque)
is 1.73 lower
When you finish the winding steps above, you have 6
ending of magnet wires attached to coils. Use a shape
model knife to scrape off the coating of these six magnet
wires.
Then, it is necessary to check any short between
magnet wire and stator metal, and need to check any
short between magnet wires, S1, S2 and S3. If you find
any short between them, please be patience to rewind
them again.
Note: your Electronic Speed Controller, Receiver and
Battery can be destroyed by part defect of windings.
1: Put the magnet wire “S3” to tooth No.9
2: At tooth No. 9, wind 7times from the hub to the
outer edge of hammerhead. Then wind 6times
back to the hub.

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Star (wye) system
6 5
Solder E1, E2 & E3
Together
S3
S1 S2
7
8
9
12
3
4
6 5
Delta System
Solder
E3 to S1
7
8
9
12
3
4
Solder
E1 to S2 Solder E2 to S3

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6. Insert three soldered wires to Shrinking Tubes
7. Insert Bearing Tube to Wound Stator
Now, you have three soldered
wires attached to coils. Insert
those soldered wires into
shrinking tubes for insulating.
First, drop some Locitite to bearing tube.
(No. 272 Red Loctite is one of the best choice to
glue bearing tube)
Second, insert bearing tube to stato
r
until you get 0.9mm shoulder. Then,
wait for the Loctite dry.

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8. Place two ball bearings into bearing tube.
9. Insert a main shaft to endbell.
10.Put a c-clip to the slot of main shaft.
11.Place three screws at the end-bell.
Insert a main shaft to endbell
Install wound stator inside the bell and
put a C-clip to the slot of main shaft to
secure whole motor system.
Place three M3 x 4 screws to end bell to secure
the position of main shaft. Each screw must be
turned a bit each time until all screws tighten up.