Kuma Stoves K-ASH Ashwood User manual

KUMA STOVES
50145 N Old Hwy 95
Rathdrum ID 83858
MODEL# K-ASH: Ashwood
Tested to: UL 1482-1996
Test Report #: 123-S-08-2
Tested and listed by Omni Test Laboratories
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Rev. 1-10-13

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Welcome to the Kuma family.
Kuma is a modified version of the Greek word Kauma which
means “a great heat”.
We would like to take the time to say thank you for
purchasing a Kuma stove. If this is your first Kuma stove, you
have joined a long list of family members, some since 1981. We
are a family business that still desires to maintain a good
relationship with each and every one of our customers. Our
mission is to provide you with a quality product that will last a
lifetime. If you ever have a problem with your stove, we will do
what is needed to get it resolved and keep you warm.
You may have noticed a portion of the Bible enclosed in your
owner’s packet. It is a small gift for you. Our faith in Jesus Christ
is very important to us and we have that faith because salvation
and hope are found through Him. Hope comes from the message of
Truth that is found in this New Testament.
Thank you for allowing us the opportunity to warm your
home. May God bless you, and we anticipate that you will enjoy
the use of your new Kuma wood stove.
Sincerely,
The Freeman Family

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Under specific test conditions, this heater has been shown to meet
the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Washington State
emission limits for residential wood stoves.
Please read the safety precautions and the entire installation and
operation instructions carefully. Failure to properly install and
maintain your wood stove can result in an unsafe condition.
Consult your local building department for permit and
installation requirements.
Contents
Section 1…..….……………………...………….Safety Precautions
Section 2………………... Free-standing Installation Instructions
Section 3.1 ……………Masonry Fireplace Installation Instructions
Section 3.2………..Factory Built Fireplace Installation Instructions
Section 4……………………Wood Burning Operation Instructions
Section 5……………………………………………....Maintenance
Section 6…………………….Installation Clearances and Diagrams
Section 7………………………………………..…Troubleshooting
Section 8…………………………………...Replacement Parts List
Section 9……………………………………………….…Warranty
Section 10……………………………………...…EPA Information

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Section 1– Safety Precautions
Install and use in accordance with the manufacturers installation and operation
instructions contained in this manual only.
1. If this stove is not properly installed, a house fire can occur. For your protection, follow the installation
instructions provided. We recommend contacting local building or fire officials regarding restrictions and
installation inspection requirements in your area. We also recommend that your Kuma stove be installed
by a properly trained and licensed installer, preferably an NFI (National Fireplace Institute) expert.
2. DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVICING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
3. Do not burn garbage or flammable fluids such as gasoline, naptha or engine oil. Do not use charcoal
lighter fluid or similar liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire in this heater. Keep all such fluids well away
from the heater while in use. Storing these fluids near a stove could cause a fire.
4. DO NOT CONNECT TO ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION OR DUCT SYSTEM.
5. DO NOT OVERFIRE. If any part of the stove or chimney glows, the stove is in an overfire condition. If
this happens, shut the air control off immediately. Over firing can cause damage.
6. WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN A SLEEPING ROOM
7. CAUTION: THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE FLOOR, WALLS, AND ROOF/CEILING
MUST BE MAINTAINED.
8. DO NOT USE SINGLE WALL PIPE FOR ANY CHIMNEY APPLICATION, EXTERIOR OR
THROUGH THE WALL OR CEILING. Single wall pipe may only be used as a connection between the
stove and an approved masonry or stainless steel chimney. Single wall pipe may not be used as a
connector in mobile homes.
9. When installing into an existing masonry or metal chimney, examine the chimney system carefully. If you
have any questions, seek professional advice. We recommend having existing chimneys cleaned and
inspected by a qualified professional prior to the installation of your new stove.
10. NOTE ALL MINIMUM CLEARANCE REQUIREMENTS TO COMBUSTIBLES. Installation must
comply with minimum clearances as listed in this manual. (see section 6) Clearances may only be reduces
by means approved by the regulatory authority.
11. Do not operate this stove with the door in an open position, except for cracking open during start-up.
Continued operation with the door open can cause overheating of the unit, and expose embers to nearby
combustibles.
12. Do not operate this stove with the ash pan open. Regularly check seal and replace as needed
13. Do not operate with broken glass. Do not abuse glass such as striking or slamming the door.
14. This stove must be connected to a minimum 6” diameter listed chimney that complies with U.L. type 103HT
factory built chimney or a code approved masonry chimney. If the masonry chimney does not meet code, a
U.L. 1777 approved liner must be installed.
15. When connecting single wall or double wall connector pipe to the stove and chimney, use 3 screws per pipe
joint including 3 screws securing the pipe to the stove. Depending on the type of double wall pipe you are
using, it may also be necessary to fasten it at the chimney. Simpson Duravent’s DVL double wall uses a
snap lock connector and does not need screws.
16. Use only approved components for Chimney and Connector. Field fabricated or “makeshift” components
are not allowed and can cause a fire.
17. DO NOT USE THIS STOVE WITHOUT INSTALLING THE BAFFLE BOARDS AND CERAMIC
INSULATION PACKAGED WITH YOUR STOVE.
18. When connecting this stove to a masonry chimney, make sure you observe all applicable clearances
including walls, ceilings and other combustible material. A masonry chimney must be minimum 6” diameter
and constructed with a liner according to NFPA code 211. If you have any questions about the condition or
the code compliance of your masonry chimney, please speak with a qualified professional.

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19. WHEN PENETRATING A COMBUSTIBLE WALL TO CONNECT TO AN OUTSIDE MASONRY
CHIMNEY YOU MUST BE CERTAIN THAT THE WALL PASS THROUGH IS A SAFE AND
LISTED METHOD. Please refer to NFPA code 211 for details about listed wall pass through methods. To
obtain a copy of the NFPA code 211, you may visit their website at www.nfpa.org or call them toll free at
1(800)344-3555. Your local building deptartment may also have information regarding NFPA code 211.
Excerpt from NFPA 211

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Section 2– Installation Instructions
INSTALL AND USE IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE MANUFACTURER’S INSTALLATION
AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS ONLY. WHILE MOST ANYONE WITH BASIC
CARPENTRY SKILLS CAN SUCCESSFULLY AND SAFELY INSTALL THEIR KUMA WOOD
STOVE, IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED THAT IT IS INSTALLED BY A QUALIFIED
PROFESSIONAL WHO IS PROPERLY TRAINED AND LICENSED–PREFERABLY AN NFI
CERTIFIED (NATIONAL FIREPLACE INSTITUE) EXPERT.
CAUTION: The structural integrity of the floor, walls and ceiling/roof must be maintained. Use
additional bracing if required. Never cut a load bearing wall or engineered truss. Use elbows if necessary
to offset the pipe.
CAUTION: In Canada only: DO NOT INSTALL IN A MOBILE HOME.
CAUTION: NEVER INSTALL A STOVE IN A SLEEPING ROOM.
Stove Components: (each component has installation instructions included. See sec. 8 for a complete
list of accessories)
1. Stove body (K ASH)
2. Pedestal or leg kit (KA PK 1, KA LG SB, etc.)
3. Door Kit (KA DR 2B, KA DR 2G, etc.)
4. Ashpan Assembly (KA AP 1)
5. Outside air kit (KA OA 1)
6. Optional Blower (KA BL 2)
7. Fireplace surround kit (KA FS 1P)
STEP 1: DETERMINING THE STOVE LOCATION:
When choosing a stove location there are a few things that should be considered.
1. Try to choose a location that is centrally located in the house.
2. Try to choose a location that will be easy to access from your wood storage area.
3. Survey the roof area above and around the location of the chimney exit. Be sure there are no
dormers, roof valleys or any other roof irregularities that could cause difficulty when trying to set
and seal the roof flashing.
4. If possible, survey the attic area above and around the location of the chimney. Be sure there are
no major obstructions such as plumbing, heating ducts, electrical wires, phone cables, etc. Also
check the crawl space below and around the stove location for the same obstructions.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE CHIMNEY.
Use only 6” Class A solid fuel chimney that has been U.L. Safety tested for wood stoves (type 103 HT)
IMPORTANT: These instructions are a very basic guideline for the steps to installing your chimney.
For complete, step by step instructions, refer to the installation manual that came with your chimney.
Chimney installation instructions are usually located in the box with the chimney cap or chimney
support components. If you have any questions about the installation of your chimney, please
contact the dealer where you purchased your stove.
CAUTION: Use only pre-fabricated, listed chimney and connector components. Field fabricated
components and/or “makeshift” compromises could result in a chimney or house fire.

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CAUTION: Inspect all chimney components for damage. Do not use any damaged chimney
components.
1. Familiarize yourself with the clearances of the stove for the configuration in which you have
chosen to install, i.e. corner installation or straight wall installation (see section 6). Notice the
clearances listed for the chimney, this will help you determine the location of the hole in the
ceiling. Note: On metal roofs in snow regions, consideration must be given to snow loads above
the chimney that can slide in to chimney and severely damage it. Please consider snow breaks or
snow dividers to prevent damage.
2. Once you’ve determined the stove location based on the applicable clearances and connector type
(see section 6), be sure to check attic and roof for any obstructions. Install the chimney system
according to the step by step illustrated instructions that came with your chimney.
3. Special care needs to be exercised when passing the chimney through an attic space. An attic
insulation shield must be used in all chimney installations to ensure that no insulation can contact
the chimney pipe. If there is little or no attic space, or if you have a vaulted ceiling, use a tall
square cathedral ceiling support box to pass all the way through to the roof line to provide the
shielding.
4. Stability: If necessary, install a roof brace kit on the chimney to stabilize the chimney against
wind, etc. Generally, roof bracing is required if the chimney extends more than five feet above the
chimney exit point.
5. See illustrations in section 6, page 18, for all components required for factory-built chimneys, as
well as parts required to connect to an approved masonry chimney.
6. Chimney Height. Page 18 shows the minimum chimney height in relation to the roof. With low
pitch roofs or little attic space, the chimney can be too short. For proper draft and best
performance, a minimum overall height of connector pipe plus chimney combined should be at
least 12 feet tall, measured from the stove top to the chimney cap. If necessary, add chimney.
STEP 3: OUTSIDE AIR
Outside Air – Outside air is required in all manufactured home installations.
1. Kuma Stoves does not particularly require that outside air be directly connected to this stove
however, some state or local building codes may mandate outside air. If your state or local
building code requires an outside air supply use part# KA OA 1. If you are unable to supply a
direct connection to the stove, we suggest the following:
a. Provide a passive air supply to the home. The air vent should be a minimum of 4” in
diameter.
b. The air supply must be provided to the same room that the stove is installed in.
c. The air supply should utilize a barometric damper so that air is only supplied to the room
if the house pressure becomes negative.
Visit www.woodheat.org for more information on the use of outside air.
2. When building a hearth pad on site, be sure to leave an area open for the installation of the
outside air vent. Once the hearth is positioned according to the minimum clearances, locate and
mark out the hole for the 4” outside are vent. On a pedestal model stove, this hole may be
anywhere under the stove base. On a leg model stove, try and locate the hole to line up with the
hole in the bottom of the stove. On a pre-manufactured hearth, use a hole saw or circular saw to
cut through just the backing board then use a hammer and firmly hit the tile or stone on the top
side. If the backing board was cut to the correct depth, the tile or stone will break out very clean.
Also using a hole saw or circular saw cut the hole through the home floor into the crawl space. Be
sure to line this hole up with the one in the hearth.
3. If you are installing your outside air vent through the wall, use a 4” hole saw or reciprocating saw
to cut the hole through the wall. BE SURE TO CHECK FOR OBSTRUCTIONS IN THE
WALL.

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STEP 4: INSTALLING THE HEARTH
CAUTION: The Kuma Ashwood Stove can be configured as a Freestanding Stove or as a Fireplace Insert.
Freestanding Stoves can be supported by either Legs or a Pedestal Base. Each configuration has different
floor protection requirements. See the section below that pertains to your particular installation.
Minimum Requirements:
The minimum floor protection requirements for the Kuma Ashwood model are as follows:
Floor protection must consist of a continuous non-combustible material and extend a minimum of 16" in
front of the loading door and 6” to both sides and the rear of the stove body.
Additional requirements for material thickness and thermal resistance are described below.
1. Ashwood with Pedestal Base: Installed as a freestanding stove on a pedestal base the Kuma
Ashwood requires Ember Protection only. Ember Protection can take the recommended form of a
manufactured Type-1 floor protector listed to UL-1618, or a non-combustible continuous material
with a MINIMUM thickness of 3/8”.
2. Ashwood with Legs: Installed as a freestanding stove on legs the Kuma Ashwood requires both
continuous ember protection and Thermal Protection with a minimum R-Value of 0.60. Thermal
Protection can take the recommended form of a manufactured Type-2 floor protector listed to UL-
1618 with a tested R-Value higher than R = 0.60. Alternately a site built or existing hearth can be
used provided they meet the minimum size and thermal resistance requirements. Never install this
stove with legs on an existing hearth unless you can determine it provides a minimum thermal
resistance of R = 0.60.
3. Ashwood Insert: The Ashwood can be installed as a fireplace insert in either a masonry fireplace
in good condition or a factory-built fireplace which is approved for the installation of a fireplace
insert. Minimum floor protection requirements are as follows:
a. Minimum 1” continuous non-combustible material under the insert and extending at least 17”
in front of the insert face, and 8” to either side of the insert (that is 17” is measured from the
face of the insert and not the ash lip). This 1” thick material must have an R-Value of R
=1.2or greater.
b. An Ashwood insert which, when installed, extends out from the fireplace face, but does not
rest on the hearth in front, and has at least 2” of airspace between the hearth and the
bottom of the insert bottom, requires ember protection only (Type-1 UL Listed Hearth
Protector or continuous non-combustible material.) This type of installation is more
common in factory-built fireplaces.
MINIMUM Floor Protection size Requirements.
For Free Standing Stove.
For Fireplace insert
USA
a 6”
b 16”
USA
a 8”
a
a
a

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STEP 5: Setting the stove and connecting to the chimney
1. Assemble the stove (legs, pedestal, ash pan, blower). Follow the installation instructions that
are included in each accessory box. Once the stove is assembled set the stove gently on the
hearth using cardboard to protect the hearth.
2. Position the stove on the hearth according to the clearances shown on the diagrams in section 6.
Be sure that the stove is at least minimum clearance from all combustible walls and materials. If
possible it is advisable to set the stove 1-2 inches further away from the combustibles than
required.
3. Using approved single (min. 24 MSG Black or 26 MSG Blued)- or double-wall pipe, (single wall
is not approved for a mobile home) connect the stove to the chimney. If necessary, use elbows to
offset the pipe so that the stove can remain at the correct clearance and still connect to the
chimney. Secure each pipe joint with three screws, using the screws provided with the pipe.
Secure the pipe to stove flue collar with 3 screws.
4. If installing in a mobile home, drill a small hole through the hearth and route the 8 gauge copper
wire into the crawl space. Use a grounding “connector” or “lug” to attach the ground wire to the
stove and to the frame of the mobile home.
5. When required by local code, you will need to fasten the stove to the floor of the mobile home.
(This applies to mobile homes only). To fasten a leg model, simply mark the location of the hole
in the bottom of the legs, drill holes and bolt into the bottom of the leg from the crawl space. To
fasten a pedestal model, holes will need to be drilled in the pedestal base. Once the holes are
drilled in the base, mark the location on the floor and use bolts and nuts or lag screws to fasten.
Your stove is now ready for use. If your stove installation required a permit and requires inspection by the
local building department please do not forget to call for an inspection. It is important that your permit and
inspection be finalized, as some insurance companies will require the stove to be inspected. It is also a
great idea to give your insurance a call and let them know that you have installed a wood stove.
PLEASE REFER TO SECTION 4-“Wood Burning Operation Instructions” as well as “Before Operating”
checklist before lighting your first fire.
b 17”
b

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Section 3.1–Masonry Fireplace installation
The Kuma model Ashwood is certified for installation into a fireplace with a masonry chimney that is
manufactured in accordance with NFPA 211. A Safety listed 6” fireplace liner must be installed and
directly connected to the appliance. The single-wall liner must extend 6.5’ above the stovetop. For
optimum performance and ease of cleaning, it is recommended that an approved chimney liner be installed
all the way to the chimney top.
Check to make sure that the fireplace flue is in good usable condition. This is best determined by a
licensed professional (certified chimney sweep or NFI certified technician).
Prior to installation:
1. Check for cracks, loose or damaged mortar joints, blockages, or extraordinary deterioration.
2. The chimney must have at least a 2” clearance to combustible inside and outside the house.
3. The chimney must have a 5/8” thick fireclay liner. If you have an older, unlined masonry
chimney, then you must install an approved chimney liner system including a thermal wrap that
will bring your existing chimney up to the requirements of U.L. 1777. Contact your dealer or a
licensed chimney professional if you have any questions.
4. Check for any gap existing between the masonry fireplace construction and the fascia masonry. If
there is a gap, seal with a high temperature masonry mortar.
5. If outside air is required by local building code then it should be connected to the back of the
fireplace prior to installation.
a. The outside air vent can not exceed in length, the vertical height of the exhaust flue
b. The outside air vent must be installed where it will remain free of snow, ice, or debris.
c. The outside air vent must not terminate close to exhaust vents.
Guidelines for installation:
1. Secure the damper in the open position.
2. Install a 6” diameter listed stainless steel flue liner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
The flue collar on the stove must be attached to the end of the liner for quick installation and
removal:
a. Loosen the flue collar bolts and remove the collar from the stove.
b. Install the flue collar to the liner using 3 stainless steel sheet metal screws.
c. Slide the stove into place. (leveling bolts are supplied with the surround kit)
d. From inside the stove, reach through the flue collar, grab the flue collar and pull down to
the stove, lining up the holes in the collar with the bolt holes in the stove.
e. Tighten the bolts securing the flue collar to the stove
f. Install the baffle board and ceramic blanket into the stove using the directions supplied
with the baffle set.
3. Install the fireplace surround (KA FS 1P) using the instructions supplied with the kit.
SEE SECTION 6 FOR INSERT INSTALLATION CLEARANCES AND DIAGRAMS.
NOTE: Consideration must be given to ensure an adequate supply of combustion air for your insert.
*Make sure the convertible rear/bottom air cover is configured to expose the 4” hole at the
stove back rather than the stove bottom.
*If your fireplace is equipped with an outside air source, then simply make sure that vent is
open. As with any vent open to the outside, make sure there is a rodent screen installed to
prevent any unwanted intrusion.
*If an outside air direct connection is desired, the parts included in the Kuma outside air kit
(part # KA OA 1) will make this connection possible.
*If room air is used, the small gaps that naturally occur between the surround kit and the face
of the fireplace should be adequate for combustion air. Do not insulate behind the surround
panel. If combustion appears lazy, try installing some small spacers at the surround panel
edge so that it will stand off from the fireplace face ¼”. It is up to you to make sure there is
an adequate free air supply for optimum performance from your insert.

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Section 3.2– Factory Built Fireplace installation
The fireplace must not be altered, except for the exceptions listed below. A permanent metal warning label
must be attached to the back of the fireplace, stating that the fireplace may have been altered to
accommodate the insert, and must be returned to original condition for use as a conventional fireplace. The
following modifications are permissible: removal of damper, removal of smoke shelf or baffle, removal of
ember catches, removal of fire grates, removal of viewing screen/curtain, and removal of doors.
The factory built chimney must be listed per UL 127 (US), and meet type HT requirements of UL 103
(US). Factory built fireplace chimneys tested to UL 127-1998, may be at the fireplace manufacturer’s
option, tested to the same criteria as UL 103 HT requirements. If the chimney is not listed as meeting HT
requirements, or if the factory built fireplace was tested prior to 1998, a full height listed chimney liner
must be installed from the appliance flue collar to the chimney top. The liner must meet type HT
requirements (2100 F) per UL 1777 (US). The liner must be securely attached to the insert flue collar and
the chimney top. To prevent room air passage to the chimney cavity of the fireplace, seal the damper area
with high temperature sealant.
The Kuma model Ashwood is certified to UL 127 for installation into a properly installed factory built
fireplace in the U.S. Only. A Safety listed 6” fireplace liner must be installed and directly connected to the
appliance. The liner must be at least 6.5’ above the insert. For optimum performance and ease of cleaning,
it is recommended that an approved liner be installed all the way to the chimney top.
Prior to installation:
1. The following items may be removed in order to facilitate the liner installation: Smoke
Shelf/Baffle, Wood Grate, Viewing Screen, Damper, and ember catches.
2. The Fireplace itself must not be altered (with the exception of damper removal). Any non-
functioning trims that are removed must be kept so that the fireplace can be restored to full
working order if the insert is ever removed.
3. The local building department has the final authority to approve, with a permit, the installation of
this appliance into a factory built fireplace. DO NOT INSTALL WITHOUT A PERMIT.
4. Check for any gap existing between the masonry fireplace construction and the fascia masonry. If
there is a gap, seal with a high temperature masonry mortar.
5. The installation of the fireplace liner must in no way limit the airflow of the factory built chimney.
6. The original factory built chimney cap must be reinstalled after the installation of the liner.
Notes on manufactured homes and fireplaces:
1. If you are installing the Ashwood into a manufactured home, the fireplace must be manufactured
home approved and have an outside air source.
2. The outside combustion air that is fueling the fireplace must be supplied to the air intake on the
back of the Ashwood. Where the outside combustion air enters the fireplace will most likely vary
depending on the particular fireplace. You will just need to make sure that the air entering the
fireplace will not be blocked by setting the unit into place.
3. All other guidelines in this section must be followed.

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Guidelines for installation:
Use only pre-fabricated, listed components. Use of field fabricated components and/or using
“makeshift” compromises could result in a house fire.
1. Secure the damper in the open position.
2. Install a 6” diameter listed stainless steel flue liner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
The flue collar on the stove must be attached to the end of the liner for quick installation and
removal:
a. Remove the bolts in the flue collar and remove the collar.
b. Install the flue collar to the liner using 3 stainless steel sheet metal screws.
c. Slide the stove into place. (leveling bolts are supplied with the surround kit)
d. From inside the stove, reach through the flue collar, grab the flue collar and pull down to
the stove, lining up the holes in the collar with the bolt holes in the stove. Re-attach the
flue collar with the bolts that came out.
e. Install the baffle board and ceramic blanket into the stove using the directions supplied
with the baffle set.
3. Install the fireplace surround (KA FS 1P) using the instructions supplied with the kit.
SEE SECTION 6 FOR INSERT INSTALLATION CLEARANCES AND DIAGRAMS.
NOTE: Consideration must be given to ensure an adequate supply of combustion air for your insert.
*Make sure the convertible rear/bottom air cover is configured to expose the 4” hole at the
stove back rather than the stove bottom.
*If your fireplace is equipped with an outside air source, then simply make sure that vent is
open. As with any vent open to the outside, make sure there is a rodent screen installed to
prevent any unwanted intrusion.
*If an outside air direct connection is desired, the parts included in the Kuma outside air kit
(part # KA OA 1) will make this connection possible.
*If room air is used, the small gaps that naturally occur between the surround kit and the face
of the fireplace should be adequate for combustion air. Do not insulate behind the surround
panel. If combustion appears lazy, try installing some small spacers at the surround panel
edge so that it will stand off from the fireplace face ¼”. It is up to you to make sure there is
an adequate free air supply for optimum performance from your insert.

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Section 4– Wood burning operation instructions
IMPORTANT:
Your new KUMA wood stove is shipped with the baffle packaged in a bag with the stove to eliminate
damage in shipping. Please follow the detailed installation instructions included with the baffle materials.
It is important that the baffle is correctly installed, if you have any questions, please contact the dealer
where you purchased your stove, or call us directly at 888-714-5294
CAUTION: HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE
AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
IN THE EVENT OF A CHIMNEY FIRE, CLOSE AIR DAMPER COMPLETELY
CAUTION:
When building the first couple of fires, be careful to build the fire small and increase the heat slowly over a
4-5 hour period. The paint on the stove “cures” with heat and needs to be done slowly. As the paint
“cures” it gives off a smell and even sometimes a visible “smoky” haze into the room. Make sure the area
is well ventilated during the curing operation. The smell will disappear after a few hours of operation.
A word about draft.
The principle of draft is that warm air rises. Your chimney provides draft which sucks the smoke up the
chimney. The stove does not “push” out the smoke. Your Ashwood stove has been designed and approved
for use under normal conditions. Unacceptable smoking usually indicates poor draft in your chimney
system.
Reccomendations on building and maintaining a fire.
Start by opening the air control on the stove to fully open. Fully open will be pulled all the way out to the
left.
NEVER USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS TO START OR FRESHEN UP A FIRE. Using flammable
liquids can be explosive and cause personal injury or even death.
Using a good firestarter can make lighting a fire much easier. There are several different types of firestarter
available in “chips” “nuggets” and gels. Newspaper also makes a good fire starter if it is torn into strips.
When building a fire, use plenty of fire starter on the bottom and use small kindling directly on top of that.
Use progressivly larger pieces as you stack wood all the way to the top of the firebox. Do not build the
fire too close to the glass. Leave at least one inch between the glass and the fuel. When starting a fire,
avoid using unsplit pieces of wood unless they are small such as twigs and branches, as split wood lights
easier. Once the wood is stacked in the firebox, light the fire starter and leave the door slightly cracked
open for up to 10 minutes to aid in the start up of your stove. Once the fire is well lit, shut the door, but
leave the air control in the open position for about 20-30 minutes. After burning for about a half an hour in
the open position, you can start to regulate the heat output and burn rate by shutting the air control down.
Note that burning enough wood to establish a good, thick coal bed is essential to a successful long burn.
Remember to let your stove burn open for 20-30 minutes each time you reload it with wood. Shutting the
air control prematurely can cause excessive creosote in the chimney. Use the following as a general
guideline for desired burn rates. Do not alter this air control mechanism.
Low burn Draft handle pushed all the way in
Med-Low burn Draft handle pulled out approximately 1/8” – ¼”
Medium burn Draft handle pulled out approximately ¼” – ½”
Med-High burn Draft handle pulled out approximately ½” – 1”
High burn Draft handle pulled out all the way

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Additional instructions and information.
1. Build your fires directly on the firebrick. Using a grate will allow too much air to the coal bed and
will result in incomplete combustion of the wood. Using a grate can also leave charred pieces of
wood after the fire has gone out.
2. Use only the best grade of dry wood available. Wood should be seasoned for 1 full year prior to
being used. Split wood will season much faster and better that wood left in the rounds. Burning
green or wet wood greatly increases the chance of creosote build up and produces significantly
less heat. The number 1 cause for creosote build up is moisture in the wood. Store your wood
in a dry location. Any wood stored near the stove needs to maintain proper listed clearance from
the stove. Keep wood away from the loading door or ashpan if equipped.
3. Small hot fires produce less creosote than long, low smoldering fires. When you start your stove
or are re-kindling (reloading) your wood stove with a full or sizeable load of wood, open the draft
fully and burn the stove at full burn for 20-30 minutes to heat up the chimney and secondary burn
system. This ensures that when the draft control is pushed in for a lower, longer burn, the stove
will burn cleaner. You should notice more upper firebox flame activity. This is smoke from the
wood mixing with pre-heated air and burning. This is called secondary burn and results in higher
stove temperature at lower burn rates and less soot and creosote build-up. Just after starting the
fire, some smoke may occur until the chimney warms up to produce some draft. During normal
operation, adjust the draft to the position required. If properly set, it will assure longest burn times
and the most even heat cycle. Larger loads of wood will create the longest burn times. Your
Ashwood “washes” the primary air down over the glass, helping to keep the glass cleaner. If your
stove glass has a smoky build-up, adding dry, split pieces of wood and burning a full-open hot fire
will begin to burn the glass clean. Doing this in the morning will not only clean the glass, but re-
builds the heat level for an efficient burn, warming the chimney system as well as the secondary
burn system.
4. Break in period. In addition to the paint curing, several other things may occur as the stove breaks
in. a. Popping and creaking: As the metal heats up and cools down, it moves. This movement
can cause a normal popping or creaking sound that will likely decrease over the first
several fires.
b. Performance: It is normal for the first few fires to seem a bit lazy. As moisture
evaporates from the brick, the fire will become more active. A layer of ash in the bottom
of the stove will also help to keep your coal bed hot and active. A good thick coal bed
and full load of wood are key to optimum performance.
c. Smoking: As the stove heats up for the first time, a small amount of haze or smoke will
bake off of the stove, mostly due to the paint curing process. Oils on the metal will also
casue a slight haze, but will subside within 2-3 hours.
**A word on fuel- Only burn cordwood or lumber that is properly seasoned. Never burn railroad ties,
power poles, or other wood that is treated or creosote-soaked. Do not burn garbage, plastic, rubber, etc.
*Densified fuel-It is ok to burn densified fuel (i.e. fuel that has been compressed from wood waste
such as sawdust into a densified form such as a log or brick). These are sometimes called energy logs,
energy bricks, or bio-bricks. These fuels must be from natural wood products or plant based only. Do not
burn logs that have glues, waxes, or other binders in them. Care needs to be given when burning these
densified fuels in order to prevent overheating the stove. If any part of your stove glows, you are
overfiring. Because of their density, these fuels contain high BTU content. Do not burn too many at once
at a high burn rate. Common sense must prevail.
Optional blower operation instructions
To install the blower, follow the instructions packaged with the blower. Plug the blower into the nearest
115V grounded circuit. Turn the variable speed knob to ‘click’ onto high speed. As the knob is turned
clock-wise, the blower speed decreases to your desired speed. The blower speed should match the desired
burn rate on your stove: i.e. low-burn rate...low blower speed; high-burn rate… high blower speed and so
forth. When routing the blower power cord, take care to keep it away from hot surfaces or surfaces that
could case abrasion.

15
Section 5– Maintenance
Use the table below as a general maintenance schedule for your stove. See below the table for detailed
information on performing the maintenance. CAUTION: When replacing parts, do not substitute any part
or material other than factory parts or a factory authorized substitution. If you have questions about
substitute parts, contact your dealer.
Ash disposal Every 1-2 weeks
Chimney inspection and cleaning Every 2-3 months
Gasket replacement Every year or as needed
Glass cleaning and replacement As needed
Brick replacement Replace broken bricks as needed
Clean and inspect stove Every 2-3 months or as needed.
Replace ceramic insulation Every year or as needed
Ash disposal – Every 1-2 weeks
1. Empty the ash pan when the fire is out. Never try to empty the ash pan when the stove has an
active or full fire, doing so will over heat the stove.
2. Using gloves, remove the ash pan by turning the handle to one side or the other and pulling
straight out.
3. Dump the ashes into a metal container with a tight fitting lid away from the house. NEVER
EMPTY ASHES INTO A COMBUSTIBLE CONTAINER SUCH AS A PLASTIC BUCKET
OR PAPER BAG. NEVER LEAVE ASHES IN THE HOUSE OR GARAGE. Ashes should
remain in the closed container until the embers have completely cooled. Do not place other waste
into the same container with the ashes.
4. Before replacing the ash pan, check to see if any ashes need to be removed from the ash pan
plenum. If any ashes remain in the ash plenum it will prevent the ash pan from sliding all the way
in and it may not seal, resulting in air entering the ash grate which will produce a runaway fire.
5. Replace the ash pan by inserting it back into the stove, pushing in on the handle while in a
horizontal position, and turning the handle vertically (spring towards the bottom).
Chimney inspection and cleaning – Every 2-3 months
1. Refer to the chimney manufacturers installation instructions for additional information on cleaning
the chimney. We recommend having the chimney cleaned by a licensed professional chimney
sweep.
2. When wood is burned, it releases tar and other organic vapors. When these vapors combine with
moisture, creosote is formed and enters the chimney. When the stove is burning on a low setting,
the exhaust can be moving slow and the chimney can be relatively cool. This combination of slow
exhaust and a cool chimney causes creosote to stick to the walls of the chimney. When creosote
accumulates, it causes the draft to slow and the problem of creosote accumulation will compound.
If the creosote is not removed on a regular basis, a chimney fire can occur which can damage the
chimney and/or stove. Therefore, the importance of regular chimney maintenance cannot be
emphasized enough.
3. Every few months inspect the chimney for build-up of creosote or soot. Clean as necessary.
Generally, a ¼” build-up or more should be cleaned.
Gasket Replacement – Every year or as needed
1. Gaskets need to be checked at least once a year. The gaskets on your stove are designed to keep
unwanted air out of the firebox. Neglecting these gaskets can cause a decrease in burn times,
more wood consumption and possible over heating of the stove. When checking the gaskets, look
for wear areas that show fraying or cutting. Check the gasket for softness by pressing them with
your finger and give a slight tug on one area to see if the glue is still holding. Gaskets that are cut
or fraying can cause small air leaks in that spot. Gaskets that are hard will not conform to the
stove and may leak air. Gaskets that are not held in with glue could come out at an inconvenient
time. The gaskets that need to be checked are: Door gasket, ash pan gasket, and glass gasket.
Refer to section 8 for part numbers for the correct gasket for your stove and check with your
dealer for parts availability.

16
Glass cleaning and replacement – as needed
1. Never clean the glass when it is hot.
2. Clean the glass with an approved stove glass cleaner, never use an abbrasive material like
sandpaper or steel wool
3. Your stove is equipped with an airwash system that will self-clean the glass. If the glass is black
or covered with soot from slow burning, simply load the stove with good, dry, split wood and burn
at high burn for about 20- 30 minutes and the glass should burn clean.
4. Never build a fire against the glass.
5. When closing the door be sure that no pieces of wood are protruding from the door opening that
could touch the glass. Excessive stress like closing the door on a piece of wood will break the
glass. If the glass ever breaks in your stove, don’t panic, simply shut the air off and let the fire
burn out. Do not continue to operate a stove with broken glass. Do not leave the stove unattended
with broken glass.
6. To replace the glass it may be helpful to remove the door from the stove and place on a clean soft
work area. Remove the retaining ring screws and retaining ring, remove the glass and dispose of
properly, CAUTION: BROKEN GLASS WILL BE SHARP. Clean the door thoroughly where
the new piece of glass will install. Set the new piece of glass into the door and replace the
retaining ring and screws. Glass replacement must be 5mm thickness, approved clear ceramic
glass such as Neoceram, Robax, Pyro-ceram, or other glass approved for high temperature
applications. Do not use tempered glass or Borosilicate. See section 8 for replacement glass part
number and size. Be careful to tighten the screws evenly, uneven pressure can break the glass.
Tighten the screws just enough to hold the glass firmly, overtightening can cause uneven pressure
and can break the glass.
Brick replacement – As needed
1. Bricks should be inspected and replaced if necessary at least once a year. Cracked bricks are fine
as long as they remain in place.
Clean and inspect stove – Every 2-3 months or as needed
1. Your stove should be fully cleaned and inspected once a year. Every 2-3 months, visually check
the stove interior, especially for ash build up on top of the ceramic insulation. This is a great time
to inspect the bricks, gaskets, ceramic blanket and the rest of the stove for signs of abnormal wear.
Start by shoveling all the ashes out of the stove and emptying the ash pan. Use a shop vac to clean
the hard to reach places. Look at the inside of the stove for signs of wear, paying close attention to
the burn tubes. Discoloration of the stainless steel is normal.
2. FOR INSERT.
a. Remove the surround panel by unscrewing the two adjustable retaining screws on the
front of the top panel.
b. Remove the front two burn tubes.
c. Remove the ceramic insulation and the two baffle boards.
d. Use a 7/16 wrench or socket wrench to remove the two flue collar retaining bolts and
push the liner up out of the stove, or if there is room, reach in above the stove and pull the
liner out.
e. Pull the insert forward to inspect or clean. NOTE: it is not necessary to remove the
insert if a full height liner has been installed to the chimney top. Only the baffle tubes,
insulation and boards should be removed for cleaning. Partial liners can build up soot in
the fireplace cavity and will require insert removal for proper cleaning.
Replace ceramic insulation – Every year or as needed
1. At least once a year, check the ceramic insulation on top of the baffle in your stove. The ceramic
insulation is designed to keep heat in the stove and increase efficiency. As long as the insulation
is in place it can be left alone. If the insulation becomes torn during cleaning, simply lay it back
together tightly in that area. If the insualtion tears to multiple pieces, it should be replaced,
smaller pieces can become caught in the draft and cause a resriction.

17
Firebox Maintenance Diagram
ID # Description Part # ID # Description Part #
1 Ceramic blanket 1/2” x 22” x 17”. KR IN AW 8 Ash grate KR AG
2 Baffle Kit – 2 boards, 1 insulation. KR BF AW 9 Baffle tube: Rear. KR BT AW3
3 Brick: Standard size. 9”x 4-1/2” KR-BR 10 Baffle tube: Middle front or middle rear KR BT AW2
4 Brick: Cut size. 8-7/8 x 2-3/8”. KR BR AW2 11 Baffle tube: Front. KR BT AW3
5 Brick: Cut size: 2” x 1-5/8”. KR BR AW4 12 Hardware: 1/4-20 x 1/2” bolt. Pack of 6. KR HW 1
6 Brick: Cut size: 9” x 3-1/8”. KR BR AW3 13 Door wedge assembly. KR DW AW
7 Brick: Cut size: 5-3/8” x 4-1/2”. KR BR AW1 14 Control handle 3/8” pewter. KR SP 1P
14 Control handle. 3/8” gold. KR SP 1G
10
10
11
9
1
4
3
22
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
4
5
7
6
13
12
8
12
14

18
Door Assembly Maintenance Diagram
ID # Description Part # ID # Description Part #
1 Door control handle: 1/2” pewter KR SP 2P 5 Door pin retainer. (set of 2) KR DP 3RT
1 Door control handle: 1/2” gold KR SP 2G 6 Gasket: 3/4” x 5/8” tape. KR GK 34
2 Door casting: Black w/ handle
assembly KR DR 2B 7 Glass: Includes gasket. KR GL 2
2 Door casting: Pewter w/ handle
assembly KR DR 2P 8 Glass Retainer: Includes screws KR GL 2RT
2 Door casting: Gold w/ handle
assembly KR DR 2G 9 Hardware: #10 screw. Pack of 7 KR HW 4
3 Gasket: 5/8” fiberglass rope w/
cement KR GK 58
4 1/2” Door pin. (set of 2) w/retainers KR DP 3
1
8
4
6
3
2 5
7
9

19
Section 6– Clearances and diagrams
Figure #1 Double Wall Pipe
Use this diagram for the following installations:
1. Mobile Home installation with the stove in a corner using double wall pipe.
2. Residential installation with the stove in a corner using double wall pipe. For single wall pipe,
refer to figure 2.
Hearth
ALL CLEARANCES SHOWN IN INCHES
ALL CLEARANCES ARE MINIMUMS
13”
13”
3”
6”
3”

20
Figure #2 Single Wall Pipe
Use this diagram for the following installation:
1. Residential installation with the stove in a corner using single wall pipe. For double wall
pipe, refer to figure 1. For mobile home installation in a corner, refer to figure 1
Hearth
ALL CLEARANCES SHOWN IN INCHES
ALL CLEARANCES ARE MINIMUMS
19”
19”
9
”
9”
6”