Laing SM-303-B Installation instructions

Installation & Operating Manual
Please read this manual carefully before attempting to install, operate or maintain the product described. Failure to comply
with the information provided in this manual could result in personal injury and/or property damage. Retain this manual
for future reference.
Seal-less Centrifugal
Canned Motor Pumps
For Instant Hot Water Recirculating Systems
About LAING Pumps
Laing Recirc®pumps have only one moving
part--the rotor/impeller. The motor creates an
electromagnetic eld that balances and spins the
rotor/impeller on a stationary bearing ball inside
the pump cavity. The motor is fully encapsulated in
resin, has no moving shafts or seals, and elimi-
nates conventional wear that can generate noise.
Like all seal-less centrifugal circulators, the pump
cannot be run without water lubricating the bearing.
The pump housing must be ooded before start-up
and water must be maintained in the system during
pump operation. The unique leak-proof integra-
tion of the motor and pump housing eliminates the
need for conventional mechanical seals or other
shaft sealing devices. These components are self-
lubricating and require no external lubrication.
1
WARRANTY
Laing recirculation pumps are warranted against defects in materials and workmanship for 24 months from
the date of manufacture (see mfg. date label on pump) or twelve (12) months from date of user purchase,
with proof of purchase, whichever is later. In order to receive warranty considerations, the product must be
returned prepaid to the company from which it was originally purchased. If the pump is found defective, the
pump will be replaced or in the case of wholesale customers, appropriate purchase credit will be issued.
Prior to returning any defective pump to Laing for warranty consideration, contact the Laing factory for
an RMA tracking number. Any claim for consequential damages resulting from a pump malfunction is not
covered by the Laing warranty. Additional warranty details are available on request. (1/02)
SM-303-B
Models: SM-303-B
SMT-303-B
SM-909-B-14
SMT-909-B-14
UC-303-B
UCT-303-B
SMT-303-B
with 24 hour timer
SM-909-B-14 SMT-909-B-14
with 24 hour timer
Trouble Shooting
Noise in the System: The pump should be virtually noiseless during operation. The ro-
tor may make a brief but hardly perceptible uttering noise immediately after the pump is
turned off. During normal operation, an occasional air bubble may pass through the pump
housing causing a momentary gurgling noise. However, if noise at the pump persists for
any prolonged period, correct the problem (see below).
• The check valve is mistakenly installed on the inlet side of pump or in the wrong direction.
• The inlet side shut-off valve is closed or clogged.
• There is air is trapped in the pump housing (turn the pump on and off several times to see
if the air pocket can be “bumped” out of the pump and if not, then open the hose bib
for manual venting).
• There is debris blocking the rotor.
• The rotor bearing has worn due to dry running causing the rotor to wobble during
operation.
• If the return line connects to the cold water supply at the top of water heater, the warm
water may be creating back pressure in the cold supply line. If so, add a check valve on
the cold supply line above the return line tee connector.
Pump Operating Intermittently or Not at All:
• No power to the pump.
• There is debris or foreign matter in the pump.
• The thermostat is not functioning properly (see page 6 on thermostat operation). If
wanted, the thermostat may be easily disconnected. Contact the Laing factory for
details.
Water Taking Too Long to Get to Faucet:
• The hot water supply from the water heater is exhausted.
• The faucet involved may be on a branch line off the main hot water supply line in
which case there may be a slightly longer wait for hot water to arrive than at
faucets directly off the main supply line.
• The check valve is installed backwards.
• The pump is not operating.
• The timer is not operating properly.
Signs of Dry Run:
Dry run results from inadequate water supply to the pump, which prevents lubrication of
the bearing ball. It may be caused by operating the pump without water in the plumbing
lines, which may occur with frozen pipes, or by failing to turn the pump off when the sys-
tem is drained for servicing. It can also occur as the result of large air bubbles collecting in
the pump housing and preventing the ow of water over the bearing ball. If the problem is
air in the system, check that the air vent is functioning, that the system is properly purged
of air and that the pump and various system components are installed in accordance with
the diagrams shown on page 3.
Laing Thermotech, Inc.
830 Bay Boulevard, Suite 101, Chula Vista, CA 91911
Phone: (619) 575-7466 Fax: (619) 575-2739
www.lainginc.com • www.autocirc.com
UC-303-B UCT-303-B
with 24
hour timer
IM-16 (09/05)
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

3
Hose Bib
Laing
Ultracirc
Pump
Hot
Water
Heater
Air
Vent
Return Line
®
Hose Bib
Laing
Ultracirc
Pump
Air Vent
®
Hot
Water
Heater
Installation and Start Up
1. Select the sink under which to connect the recirculation line (the sink where the
hot water takes longest to arrive which is usually the sink farthest from the water heater).
2. Plan your installation. Decide on the course of the recirculation pipe (also determin-
ing the length of the pipe required) and whether the return line should be connected to the
water heater cold water inlet line (tee tting required) or to the bottom water heater drain
valve (“Y” type tting required to t to existing drain valve outlet). See gure 1 and 2 for
the installation schematic.
Above diagrams are for single line returns only. For multiple branched supply line installa-
tions, a recirculation line should be installed for each branch.
Note: The pump must always be installed below the water level of water heater so
that the pump ow is always upward or directly horizontal and not downward. Do
not mount the pump above the water heater.
3. Purchase materials required.
• Laing Recirc® Pump (SM-303/UC-303 or SM-909) • (1) 1/2” or 3/4” swing check valve
• Copper pipe or tubing (not required on UC/UCT models)
• Tee for under sink connect • (1) 1/2” or 3/4” hose bib
• Tee or “Y” tting connection to water heater • (1) Auto air vent
• (2) 1/2” or 3/4” shut-off valves (not required on • Misc. nipples and ttings
UC/UCT models) • Pipe insulation
A. Return into Cold Water Line at Top of Water
Heater g. 1
B. Return to Drain Valve at Bottom of Water
Heater g. 2
About Recirculation Systems
Air in the System: A properly installed system should include a method of automatically venting
the air that enters the water supply line during use. Air enters the system each time fresh, cold
water is introduced into the hot water heater. Air may also enter the system any time a plumbing
line is opened, for instance during a faucet change or adding a sprinkler system.
Water Pressure: A recirculating system is a pressurized system operating at the city water pres-
sure, as determined by the pressure regulator on your line, or by a well pump, if you are on a well
system. In most residential plumbing systems, water pressure is set at 35 psi and above. Below
35 psi, water pressure may not be sufcient to ll the pipe diameter, leaving space for air to ac-
cumulate in the lines. If your system pressure is less than 35 psi, use the next larger pump on the
Pump Selection Guide.
Multiple Floors: Because the system is pressurized, the number of oors in a home is not taken
into consideration in sizing the circulating pump. The pump has only to produce continuous ow at
a pressure sufcient to overcome the friction losses created by the piping in the house water sup-
ply line and the return line.
Oversized Pumps: Pumps should not be so large as to produce ow rates that may eventually
erode holes in the pipes. According to the Copper Development Association, excessive erosion
occurs at a velocity of about 5 ft. per second and higher; or about 4 GPM in 1/2” Type M copper
pipe; and 8 GPM in 3/4” pipe. Use the recommended recirculation line size shown in the Pump
Selection Guide. Laing pumps are sized so that ow velocities are well below these limits.
Pump Selection Guide: The Laing SM and UC 303 models are designed to handle the recircula-
tion requirements of residences with a pipe loop (the total length of hot water supply line plus the
recirculation line) up to 250 feet while the SM-909 model pump is designed to handle the circula-
tion requirements of residences and small apartment complexes with pipe loop runs to 700 or 1000
feet. The chart below provides a simple rule of thumb to help you match the pump to your system.
2
Housing Codes:
BS 1/2 - 1/2” Sweat
BT 1/2 - 1/2” Female NPT
BS 3/4 - 3/4” Sweat
BF - Flanged
Total Pipe Recirc
Pump Model Building Size Loop (Supply Line Pipe
& Return) Size
SM/SMT-303 (BS 1/2” or BT 1/2”), UC/UCT-303, Residential 250 ft. 1/2”
SM/SMT-909-B-14 (BS 1/2” or BS 3/4”), UC/UCT-909-14
Residential 700 ft. 1/2” or 3/4”
SM/SMT-909-B-18, SM/SMT-909-B-26 (BS 3/4” or BF),
Residential 1000 ft. 3/4”
UC/UCT-909-18, UC/UCT-909-26
Pump Selection Guide
Pump Data
Model HP RPM Watt Volt Phase Cycle Amps
SM/SMT-303, UC/UCT-303 1/150 3400 33 115 1 60 0.3
SM/SMT-909-14, UC/UCT-909-14 1/50 3400 65 115 1 60 0.6
SM/SMT-909-18, UC/UCT-909-18 1/20 3400 98 115 1 60 0.9
SM/SMT-909-26, UC/UCT-909-26
About Plastic Piping
In many cities throughout the U.S. Polybutylene and CPVC plastic piping is approved for use in
residential water systems for both hot and cold water supply lines. However, it is not clear as to
the plastic pipe manufacturer’s position relative to the approved use of their pipe when there is
always hot water in the hot water lines such as would be the case with a hot water recirculation
system. Evidently having hot water in the lines intermittently is acceptable (timer operated pump)
but not constantly. As a result Laing cannot offer any recommendations for or against the use of
plastic pipe until such time as the plastic pipe manufacturers themselves establish a clear position
in this regard. Check your local codes on the permissibility of plastic piping for your hot water
recirculation system.
Note: provide upward slope of piping from the
pump to the water heater.
shut-off
valve
Laing Recirc
Pump
shut-off
Air Vent
®
HOT WATER HEATER
hot
supply
line
cold
supply
line
check valve
hose bib
A. Return into Cold Water Line at Top of Water
Heater g. 3
B. Return to Drain Valve at Bottom of Water
Heater g. 4
SM/SMT Models
UC/UCT Models

3
Hose Bib
Laing
Ultracirc
Pump
Hot
Water
Heater
Air
Vent
Return Line
®
Hose Bib
Laing
Ultracirc
Pump
Air Vent
®
Hot
Water
Heater
Installation and Start Up
1. Select the sink under which to connect the recirculation line (the sink where the
hot water takes longest to arrive which is usually the sink farthest from the water heater).
2. Plan your installation. Decide on the course of the recirculation pipe (also determin-
ing the length of the pipe required) and whether the return line should be connected to the
water heater cold water inlet line (tee tting required) or to the bottom water heater drain
valve (“Y” type tting required to t to existing drain valve outlet). See gure 1 and 2 for
the installation schematic.
Above diagrams are for single line returns only. For multiple branched supply line installa-
tions, a recirculation line should be installed for each branch.
Note: The pump must always be installed below the water level of water heater so
that the pump ow is always upward or directly horizontal and not downward. Do
not mount the pump above the water heater.
3. Purchase materials required.
• Laing Recirc® Pump (SM-303/UC-303 or SM-909) • (1) 1/2” or 3/4” swing check valve
• Copper pipe or tubing (not required on UC/UCT models)
• Tee for under sink connect • (1) 1/2” or 3/4” hose bib
• Tee or “Y” tting connection to water heater • (1) Auto air vent
• (2) 1/2” or 3/4” shut-off valves (not required on • Misc. nipples and ttings
UC/UCT models) • Pipe insulation
A. Return into Cold Water Line at Top of Water
Heater g. 1
B. Return to Drain Valve at Bottom of Water
Heater g. 2
About Recirculation Systems
Air in the System: A properly installed system should include a method of automatically venting
the air that enters the water supply line during use. Air enters the system each time fresh, cold
water is introduced into the hot water heater. Air may also enter the system any time a plumbing
line is opened, for instance during a faucet change or adding a sprinkler system.
Water Pressure: A recirculating system is a pressurized system operating at the city water pres-
sure, as determined by the pressure regulator on your line, or by a well pump, if you are on a well
system. In most residential plumbing systems, water pressure is set at 35 psi and above. Below
35 psi, water pressure may not be sufcient to ll the pipe diameter, leaving space for air to ac-
cumulate in the lines. If your system pressure is less than 35 psi, use the next larger pump on the
Pump Selection Guide.
Multiple Floors: Because the system is pressurized, the number of oors in a home is not taken
into consideration in sizing the circulating pump. The pump has only to produce continuous ow at
a pressure sufcient to overcome the friction losses created by the piping in the house water sup-
ply line and the return line.
Oversized Pumps: Pumps should not be so large as to produce ow rates that may eventually
erode holes in the pipes. According to the Copper Development Association, excessive erosion
occurs at a velocity of about 5 ft. per second and higher; or about 4 GPM in 1/2” Type M copper
pipe; and 8 GPM in 3/4” pipe. Use the recommended recirculation line size shown in the Pump
Selection Guide. Laing pumps are sized so that ow velocities are well below these limits.
Pump Selection Guide: The Laing SM and UC 303 models are designed to handle the recircula-
tion requirements of residences with a pipe loop (the total length of hot water supply line plus the
recirculation line) up to 250 feet while the SM-909 model pump is designed to handle the circula-
tion requirements of residences and small apartment complexes with pipe loop runs to 700 or 1000
feet. The chart below provides a simple rule of thumb to help you match the pump to your system.
2
Housing Codes:
BS 1/2 - 1/2” Sweat
BT 1/2 - 1/2” Female NPT
BS 3/4 - 3/4” Sweat
BF - Flanged
Total Pipe Recirc
Pump Model Building Size Loop (Supply Line Pipe
& Return) Size
SM/SMT-303 (BS 1/2” or BT 1/2”), UC/UCT-303, Residential 250 ft. 1/2”
SM/SMT-909-B-14 (BS 1/2” or BS 3/4”), UC/UCT-909-14
Residential 700 ft. 1/2” or 3/4”
SM/SMT-909-B-18, SM/SMT-909-B-26 (BS 3/4” or BF),
Residential 1000 ft. 3/4”
UC/UCT-909-18, UC/UCT-909-26
Pump Selection Guide
Pump Data
Model HP RPM Watt Volt Phase Cycle Amps
SM/SMT-303, UC/UCT-303 1/150 3400 33 115 1 60 0.3
SM/SMT-909-14, UC/UCT-909-14 1/50 3400 65 115 1 60 0.6
SM/SMT-909-18, UC/UCT-909-18 1/20 3400 98 115 1 60 0.9
SM/SMT-909-26, UC/UCT-909-26
About Plastic Piping
In many cities throughout the U.S. Polybutylene and CPVC plastic piping is approved for use in
residential water systems for both hot and cold water supply lines. However, it is not clear as to
the plastic pipe manufacturer’s position relative to the approved use of their pipe when there is
always hot water in the hot water lines such as would be the case with a hot water recirculation
system. Evidently having hot water in the lines intermittently is acceptable (timer operated pump)
but not constantly. As a result Laing cannot offer any recommendations for or against the use of
plastic pipe until such time as the plastic pipe manufacturers themselves establish a clear position
in this regard. Check your local codes on the permissibility of plastic piping for your hot water
recirculation system.
Note: provide upward slope of piping from the
pump to the water heater.
shut-off
valve
Laing Recirc
Pump
shut-off
Air Vent
®
HOT WATER HEATER
hot
supply
line
cold
supply
line
check valve
hose bib
A. Return into Cold Water Line at Top of Water
Heater g. 3
B. Return to Drain Valve at Bottom of Water
Heater g. 4
SM/SMT Models
UC/UCT Models

5
U.L. Caution
This pump has been tested using water only. Its suitability for use with liquids other than
water is the end user’s responsibility.
Incorrect Installation Do not mount in these orientations
Pump Mounting Positions g. 3
Correct Installation
8. Close the shut-off valve on the inlet side of the pump and turn the water supply to
the house back on.
9. Flush system of debris. Before reattaching the pump motor, open the shut-off valve on
the inlet side of the pump housing and let water ow through the housing. Use a bucket to
catch the water. Let the water run long enough to clear all sand, solder pellets, plumbers
tape akes, etc. from the lines. Close the inlet shut-off valve when nished.
10. Connect the pump motor to the housing. Make sure the rubber o-ring is in place
in the housing and the screw ring is securely hand tightened (for 303 models) or that the
top housing screws are rmly in place and tightened (909 models). Reopen the shut-off
valve or valves and let the water ood the pump housing.
11. Purge air from the supply line. Turn on the faucet or shower farthest from the water
heater. Open the line until you get a good, steady stream of water without sputter or evi-
dence of air.
12. Purge air from the return line. Connect the pump to the electrical supply. With the
pump running, open the hose bib and let water run until the pump is running quietly and
there is no sputtering or other evidence of air coming from the hose bib. Close the hose
bib. Your system is now in operation. Allow a few minutes for instant hot water to recircu-
late to all of your faucets.
SAFETY PRECAUTION: Remove the handle from the hose bib(s) to prevent a small child
from mistaking it for a cold water faucet.
Insulating both the hot water supply and recirculation lines is strongly recommended.
13. If you have an SMT or UCT timer pump, set your timer in accordance with the in-
structions on the following page.
4
Or, if the Rotor/Im-
peller cannot be
removed using
forenger and thumb,
carefully lever off
evenly with two
screwdrivers.
4. Shut off the water to the house.
5. Drain the plumbing lines by opening the faucets in the house. Drain the water heater
if you plan to make the connection at the botom of the water heater, which requires re-
moval of the drain valve.
6. Connect the return line at the last faucet riser and run to the water heater. Tee the
return line as close to the end of the hot water supply line as possible and run the return
line back to the water heater.
7. Install the pump and other compo-
nents required in accordance with the
diagrams provided in g. 1 or 2 and con-
nect the return line to the water heater
(also see g. 3).
For SM(T) and UC(T) 303 Models
Check pump operation before you
begin. Unscrew the pump housing from
the motor (g. 4) and run the pump
for a few seconds to make sure it is
operational. Remove the rotor (see g.
5) and add a little water to the bearing
ball for lubrication. Do not use
grease or oil to lubricate the pump.
Fig. 5
303-Models - Rotor/Impeller Installation: To remove the rotor unit, grasp the top of the unit
and gently pull straight up. Do not pull up on one side only or push the rotor sideways. If the
rotor sits too tightly, carefully lever it off with a screwdriver on each side of the rotor. When re-
installing the rotor, use enough force to hear the rotor “click” on to the ceramic bearing and spin
the rotor with your ngers to insure that it turns freely.
For SM(T) - 909 Models
This unit may be installed into the pipe system without disassembling the pump.
However, it is recommended that the motor section be disassembled from the pump
housing by removing the two pump housing screws so that the system may be ushed as
noted in paragraph 9.
Remove the Ro-
tor/Impeller by using
forenger and thumb
and pulling upward.
Fig. 4
Remove the mo-
tor unit and
o-ring from the
pump housing
into the plumbing
line. Do not
sweat the housing
into the plumbing
line with the motor
or o-ring attached.
Arrows on the
pump housing
indicate the direc-
tion of water ow.
Caution: Only hand tighten the screw ring. Do not over
tighten! Do not use plumbers putty on the screw ring.
Ultracirc Models
The UC and UCT-303 models incorporate a shut off valve and check valve into the brass
pump housing eliminating the need to install these components.
These models are supplied with 1/2” union ttings. These ttings should be removed from
the pump housing before soldering to avoid damaging the internal valves.
Shut-Off Valve (allows isolation of water in the tank in the event of pump servicing).
Hose Bib (allows venting of air from system at start-up).
Auto Air Vent (allows continuous venting of air bubbles that intrude into all hot water circu-
lating systems during operation).

5
U.L. Caution
This pump has been tested using water only. Its suitability for use with liquids other than
water is the end user’s responsibility.
Incorrect Installation Do not mount in these orientations
Pump Mounting Positions g. 3
Correct Installation
8. Close the shut-off valve on the inlet side of the pump and turn the water supply to
the house back on.
9. Flush system of debris. Before reattaching the pump motor, open the shut-off valve on
the inlet side of the pump housing and let water ow through the housing. Use a bucket to
catch the water. Let the water run long enough to clear all sand, solder pellets, plumbers
tape akes, etc. from the lines. Close the inlet shut-off valve when nished.
10. Connect the pump motor to the housing. Make sure the rubber o-ring is in place
in the housing and the screw ring is securely hand tightened (for 303 models) or that the
top housing screws are rmly in place and tightened (909 models). Reopen the shut-off
valve or valves and let the water ood the pump housing.
11. Purge air from the supply line. Turn on the faucet or shower farthest from the water
heater. Open the line until you get a good, steady stream of water without sputter or evi-
dence of air.
12. Purge air from the return line. Connect the pump to the electrical supply. With the
pump running, open the hose bib and let water run until the pump is running quietly and
there is no sputtering or other evidence of air coming from the hose bib. Close the hose
bib. Your system is now in operation. Allow a few minutes for instant hot water to recircu-
late to all of your faucets.
SAFETY PRECAUTION: Remove the handle from the hose bib(s) to prevent a small child
from mistaking it for a cold water faucet.
Insulating both the hot water supply and recirculation lines is strongly recommended.
13. If you have an SMT or UCT timer pump, set your timer in accordance with the in-
structions on the following page.
4
Or, if the Rotor/Im-
peller cannot be
removed using
forenger and thumb,
carefully lever off
evenly with two
screwdrivers.
4. Shut off the water to the house.
5. Drain the plumbing lines by opening the faucets in the house. Drain the water heater
if you plan to make the connection at the botom of the water heater, which requires re-
moval of the drain valve.
6. Connect the return line at the last faucet riser and run to the water heater. Tee the
return line as close to the end of the hot water supply line as possible and run the return
line back to the water heater.
7. Install the pump and other compo-
nents required in accordance with the
diagrams provided in g. 1 or 2 and con-
nect the return line to the water heater
(also see g. 3).
For SM(T) and UC(T) 303 Models
Check pump operation before you
begin. Unscrew the pump housing from
the motor (g. 4) and run the pump
for a few seconds to make sure it is
operational. Remove the rotor (see g.
5) and add a little water to the bearing
ball for lubrication. Do not use
grease or oil to lubricate the pump.
Fig. 5
303-Models - Rotor/Impeller Installation: To remove the rotor unit, grasp the top of the unit
and gently pull straight up. Do not pull up on one side only or push the rotor sideways. If the
rotor sits too tightly, carefully lever it off with a screwdriver on each side of the rotor. When re-
installing the rotor, use enough force to hear the rotor “click” on to the ceramic bearing and spin
the rotor with your ngers to insure that it turns freely.
For SM(T) - 909 Models
This unit may be installed into the pipe system without disassembling the pump.
However, it is recommended that the motor section be disassembled from the pump
housing by removing the two pump housing screws so that the system may be ushed as
noted in paragraph 9.
Remove the Ro-
tor/Impeller by using
forenger and thumb
and pulling upward.
Fig. 4
Remove the mo-
tor unit and
o-ring from the
pump housing
into the plumbing
line. Do not
sweat the housing
into the plumbing
line with the motor
or o-ring attached.
Arrows on the
pump housing
indicate the direc-
tion of water ow.
Caution: Only hand tighten the screw ring. Do not over
tighten! Do not use plumbers putty on the screw ring.
Ultracirc Models
The UC and UCT-303 models incorporate a shut off valve and check valve into the brass
pump housing eliminating the need to install these components.
These models are supplied with 1/2” union ttings. These ttings should be removed from
the pump housing before soldering to avoid damaging the internal valves.
Shut-Off Valve (allows isolation of water in the tank in the event of pump servicing).
Hose Bib (allows venting of air from system at start-up).
Auto Air Vent (allows continuous venting of air bubbles that intrude into all hot water circu-
lating systems during operation).

7
System Maintenance
Standard Dry Run Thermostat Operation
Each SM(T)-303 and UC(T)-303 model pump has a built-in 200ºF thermal cut-off in order to protect
against overheating, which could cause damage to the pump motor. In the event that disruption of your
immediate hot water supply is noticed it is possible that the pump has or is running dry and the internal
dry run thermal protector has shut down the pump motor. In this event, it is important that the dry run
condition be corrected (otherwise the pump will fail prematurely) by following the procedure below:
1. Disconnect power to the pump motor.
2. Close the shut-off valves on each side of the pump.
3. Remove the pump motor/rotor assembly from the pump housing.
4. Dry off the pump motor/rotor assembly. Remove the rotor and check for any calcium build-up,
foreign matter or any signs of wear. If these signs are not present, put the rotor back in place on the
ceramic ball.
5. Hold the pump motor/rotor assembly upright and plug in the unit for about 10 seconds to see if the
rotor spins evenly and quietly. If the motor does not go on, allow a few more minutes for the thermo-
stat to reset as the unit cools down.
6. If the rotor spins properly, unplug the motor and reinstall the assembly into the pump housing.
7. Turn both shut-off valves to the on position, reconnect the electrical supply to the pump motor, and
be sure that air is properly purged from your system.
130ºF On-Off Thermostat Option “C”
Pumps with the letter “C” in the model are provided with a factory option “C” internal thermal cut-off which
automatically shuts the pump down when the temperature of the water passing through the pump housing
reaches 130ºF +/- 10ºF and turns the pump on at 110ºF +/- 10ºF (SM/SMT 909-14 only).
Variable Setting On-Off Thermostat Option “R”
Pumps with the letter “R” in the model designation are provided with a factory installed internal
thermal cut-off with an adjustable On-Off temperature dial located on the outside of the motor. This
dial can be rotated by placing a thin screw driver in the dial slot which allows the pump to turn off
automatically when the water temperature passing through the pump housing reaches the dial setting
selected-between 95ºF and 140ºF. The pump will turn back on automatically when the water tem-
perature cools down to 10ºF below the set temperature (SM/SMT-303 only).
• Do not attempt to lubricate
the pump. The pump is self-
lubricating.
• Prevent the pump from run-
ning dry.
• Flush the system of any de-
bris and re-purge all air from
the system in the event of any
water supply interruptions in
plumbing line.
• Prevent heavy scale build-up
by keeping the hot water
temperature 140ºF or less.
• Don’t over salt your water
conditioner.
Replacement Parts
Please provide the following
information
when ordering:
• Model number
• Serial number
• Part description
6
Do
• install an air vent mounted in a vertical position (if provided).
• use 1/2” recirculation line tubing.
• check to be sure there are no crimps or sharp bends in the recirculation line that would restrict the ow.
• be sure the check valve is installed in the proper direction of the ow.
• be sure all air is purged from the system prior to starting the pump.
• use a water conditioner if you have hard water.
• be sure the gate valves are open before turning on the pump.
• install the pump pumping in upward direction only.
Do Not
• use grease or oil to lubricate the pump - it is self-lubricating.
• over tighten the screw ring (SM-303 models).
• install the pump with the motor above the pump housing.
• install the pump pumping away from the water heater nor pumping downward.
• start the pump before the system is full of water and purged of air.
• allow the water heater temperature above 140ºF.
• install the pump in the supply line to faucets.
• use any pipe size other than 1/2” for SM-303 or UC-303 models.
• position the pump at the top of the water heater.
Notes:
Keep The Hot Water Temperature Below 140ºF: Higher temperatures can cause calcium and mag-
nesium elements to come out of solution and create solids which could not only cause damage to the
pump but also reduce water heater efciency and premature failure of the water heater.
Hard Water Conditions: Use a water conditioner. Hard water can cause scale build-up and eventually
reduce the life of the pump and other system components.
If timer controlled operation is desired, the timer may be programmed to allow the Autocirc
to operate during the hours desired (i.e. “ON” from 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. and “OFF” from
9:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m.) as follows:
• Open timer cover and rotate the dial clockwise until the cor-
rect time is aligned with the pointer () on the right side (3
o’clock position) of the dial. A timer instruction label afxed to
the right side of the timer housing also shows this time setting
point.
• Automatic Operation: PULL the tabs Upward on timer for the
desired operating period of time. Example: If the desired
operating time is 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m., all tabs should be
Pulled out between 7 and 9. NOTE: The timer may be set for
multiple operating periods of time.
• Slide the switch bar to “timer”.
The timer mode will provide the most cost effective method of operation and can be pro-
grammed to run only during the time periods when hot water is most frequently required.
Even during controlled timer operation, the Autocirc will only turn on when the built-in
thermostat senses that additional hot water is required at the point of installation.
Protected by one or more of the following Patents:
4580335, 4615662, 4822256, 4834628,
5094593, 5143049, 5749715, 6149407, 6227235
Do’s and Do Not’s
Timer Controlled Operation
SM-303-B SM-909-B-14
Housing
“O” Ring
Rotor
Assembly
Motor
Assembly
Screw
Ring
UC-303-B
Housing
“O” Ring
Rotor
Assembly
Motor
Assembly
Screw
Ring
30 Min. Tabs

7
System Maintenance
Standard Dry Run Thermostat Operation
Each SM(T)-303 and UC(T)-303 model pump has a built-in 200ºF thermal cut-off in order to protect
against overheating, which could cause damage to the pump motor. In the event that disruption of your
immediate hot water supply is noticed it is possible that the pump has or is running dry and the internal
dry run thermal protector has shut down the pump motor. In this event, it is important that the dry run
condition be corrected (otherwise the pump will fail prematurely) by following the procedure below:
1. Disconnect power to the pump motor.
2. Close the shut-off valves on each side of the pump.
3. Remove the pump motor/rotor assembly from the pump housing.
4. Dry off the pump motor/rotor assembly. Remove the rotor and check for any calcium build-up,
foreign matter or any signs of wear. If these signs are not present, put the rotor back in place on the
ceramic ball.
5. Hold the pump motor/rotor assembly upright and plug in the unit for about 10 seconds to see if the
rotor spins evenly and quietly. If the motor does not go on, allow a few more minutes for the thermo-
stat to reset as the unit cools down.
6. If the rotor spins properly, unplug the motor and reinstall the assembly into the pump housing.
7. Turn both shut-off valves to the on position, reconnect the electrical supply to the pump motor, and
be sure that air is properly purged from your system.
130ºF On-Off Thermostat Option “C”
Pumps with the letter “C” in the model are provided with a factory option “C” internal thermal cut-off which
automatically shuts the pump down when the temperature of the water passing through the pump housing
reaches 130ºF +/- 10ºF and turns the pump on at 110ºF +/- 10ºF (SM/SMT 909-14 only).
Variable Setting On-Off Thermostat Option “R”
Pumps with the letter “R” in the model designation are provided with a factory installed internal
thermal cut-off with an adjustable On-Off temperature dial located on the outside of the motor. This
dial can be rotated by placing a thin screw driver in the dial slot which allows the pump to turn off
automatically when the water temperature passing through the pump housing reaches the dial setting
selected-between 95ºF and 140ºF. The pump will turn back on automatically when the water tem-
perature cools down to 10ºF below the set temperature (SM/SMT-303 only).
• Do not attempt to lubricate
the pump. The pump is self-
lubricating.
• Prevent the pump from run-
ning dry.
• Flush the system of any de-
bris and re-purge all air from
the system in the event of any
water supply interruptions in
plumbing line.
• Prevent heavy scale build-up
by keeping the hot water
temperature 140ºF or less.
• Don’t over salt your water
conditioner.
Replacement Parts
Please provide the following
information
when ordering:
• Model number
• Serial number
• Part description
6
Do
• install an air vent mounted in a vertical position (if provided).
• use 1/2” recirculation line tubing.
• check to be sure there are no crimps or sharp bends in the recirculation line that would restrict the ow.
• be sure the check valve is installed in the proper direction of the ow.
• be sure all air is purged from the system prior to starting the pump.
• use a water conditioner if you have hard water.
• be sure the gate valves are open before turning on the pump.
• install the pump pumping in upward direction only.
Do Not
• use grease or oil to lubricate the pump - it is self-lubricating.
• over tighten the screw ring (SM-303 models).
• install the pump with the motor above the pump housing.
• install the pump pumping away from the water heater nor pumping downward.
• start the pump before the system is full of water and purged of air.
• allow the water heater temperature above 140ºF.
• install the pump in the supply line to faucets.
• use any pipe size other than 1/2” for SM-303 or UC-303 models.
• position the pump at the top of the water heater.
Notes:
Keep The Hot Water Temperature Below 140ºF: Higher temperatures can cause calcium and mag-
nesium elements to come out of solution and create solids which could not only cause damage to the
pump but also reduce water heater efciency and premature failure of the water heater.
Hard Water Conditions: Use a water conditioner. Hard water can cause scale build-up and eventually
reduce the life of the pump and other system components.
If timer controlled operation is desired, the timer may be programmed to allow the Autocirc
to operate during the hours desired (i.e. “ON” from 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. and “OFF” from
9:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m.) as follows:
• Open timer cover and rotate the dial clockwise until the cor-
rect time is aligned with the pointer () on the right side (3
o’clock position) of the dial. A timer instruction label afxed to
the right side of the timer housing also shows this time setting
point.
• Automatic Operation: PULL the tabs Upward on timer for the
desired operating period of time. Example: If the desired
operating time is 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m., all tabs should be
Pulled out between 7 and 9. NOTE: The timer may be set for
multiple operating periods of time.
• Slide the switch bar to “timer”.
The timer mode will provide the most cost effective method of operation and can be pro-
grammed to run only during the time periods when hot water is most frequently required.
Even during controlled timer operation, the Autocirc will only turn on when the built-in
thermostat senses that additional hot water is required at the point of installation.
Protected by one or more of the following Patents:
4580335, 4615662, 4822256, 4834628,
5094593, 5143049, 5749715, 6149407, 6227235
Do’s and Do Not’s
Timer Controlled Operation
SM-303-B SM-909-B-14
Housing
“O” Ring
Rotor
Assembly
Motor
Assembly
Screw
Ring
UC-303-B
Housing
“O” Ring
Rotor
Assembly
Motor
Assembly
Screw
Ring
30 Min. Tabs

Installation & Operating Manual
Please read this manual carefully before attempting to install, operate or maintain the product described. Failure to comply
with the information provided in this manual could result in personal injury and/or property damage. Retain this manual
for future reference.
Seal-less Centrifugal
Canned Motor Pumps
For Instant Hot Water Recirculating Systems
About LAING Pumps
Laing Recirc®pumps have only one moving
part--the rotor/impeller. The motor creates an
electromagnetic eld that balances and spins the
rotor/impeller on a stationary bearing ball inside
the pump cavity. The motor is fully encapsulated in
resin, has no moving shafts or seals, and elimi-
nates conventional wear that can generate noise.
Like all seal-less centrifugal circulators, the pump
cannot be run without water lubricating the bearing.
The pump housing must be ooded before start-up
and water must be maintained in the system during
pump operation. The unique leak-proof integra-
tion of the motor and pump housing eliminates the
need for conventional mechanical seals or other
shaft sealing devices. These components are self-
lubricating and require no external lubrication.
1
WARRANTY
Laing recirculation pumps are warranted against defects in materials and workmanship for 24 months from
the date of manufacture (see mfg. date label on pump) or twelve (12) months from date of user purchase,
with proof of purchase, whichever is later. In order to receive warranty considerations, the product must be
returned prepaid to the company from which it was originally purchased. If the pump is found defective, the
pump will be replaced or in the case of wholesale customers, appropriate purchase credit will be issued.
Prior to returning any defective pump to Laing for warranty consideration, contact the Laing factory for
an RMA tracking number. Any claim for consequential damages resulting from a pump malfunction is not
covered by the Laing warranty. Additional warranty details are available on request. (1/02)
SM-303-B
Models: SM-303-B
SMT-303-B
SM-909-B-14
SMT-909-B-14
UC-303-B
UCT-303-B
SMT-303-B
with 24 hour timer
SM-909-B-14 SMT-909-B-14
with 24 hour timer
Trouble Shooting
Noise in the System: The pump should be virtually noiseless during operation. The ro-
tor may make a brief but hardly perceptible uttering noise immediately after the pump is
turned off. During normal operation, an occasional air bubble may pass through the pump
housing causing a momentary gurgling noise. However, if noise at the pump persists for
any prolonged period, correct the problem (see below).
• The check valve is mistakenly installed on the inlet side of pump or in the wrong direction.
• The inlet side shut-off valve is closed or clogged.
• There is air is trapped in the pump housing (turn the pump on and off several times to see
if the air pocket can be “bumped” out of the pump and if not, then open the hose bib
for manual venting).
• There is debris blocking the rotor.
• The rotor bearing has worn due to dry running causing the rotor to wobble during
operation.
• If the return line connects to the cold water supply at the top of water heater, the warm
water may be creating back pressure in the cold supply line. If so, add a check valve on
the cold supply line above the return line tee connector.
Pump Operating Intermittently or Not at All:
• No power to the pump.
• There is debris or foreign matter in the pump.
• The thermostat is not functioning properly (see page 6 on thermostat operation). If
wanted, the thermostat may be easily disconnected. Contact the Laing factory for
details.
Water Taking Too Long to Get to Faucet:
• The hot water supply from the water heater is exhausted.
• The faucet involved may be on a branch line off the main hot water supply line in
which case there may be a slightly longer wait for hot water to arrive than at
faucets directly off the main supply line.
• The check valve is installed backwards.
• The pump is not operating.
• The timer is not operating properly.
Signs of Dry Run:
Dry run results from inadequate water supply to the pump, which prevents lubrication of
the bearing ball. It may be caused by operating the pump without water in the plumbing
lines, which may occur with frozen pipes, or by failing to turn the pump off when the sys-
tem is drained for servicing. It can also occur as the result of large air bubbles collecting in
the pump housing and preventing the ow of water over the bearing ball. If the problem is
air in the system, check that the air vent is functioning, that the system is properly purged
of air and that the pump and various system components are installed in accordance with
the diagrams shown on page 3.
Laing Thermotech, Inc.
830 Bay Boulevard, Suite 101, Chula Vista, CA 91911
Phone: (619) 575-7466 Fax: (619) 575-2739
www.lainginc.com • www.autocirc.com
UC-303-B UCT-303-B
with 24
hour timer
IM-16 (09/05)
This manual suits for next models
19
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