Lithium Grim Little Sultan of Tone Instruction Manual

1
Little Sultan of Tone
Building instructions
V1.0

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Table of contents
Components...........................................................................................................................................3
General guideline for components.........................................................................................................4
General building tips ..............................................................................................................................4
Modifications .........................................................................................................................................5
Off board wiring .....................................................................................................................................5
Troubleshooting .....................................................................................................................................6
Schematic...............................................................................................................................................7

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Components
ID
Value
Comment
ID
Value
Comment
C1
10n
SMF
IC1
JRC4580D
Socketed
C2
100p
Ceramic
R1
1M
C3
10n
SMF
R2
1M
C4
10n
SMF
R3
27k
C5
100n
SMF
R4
33k
C6
10n
SMF
R5
10k
C7
10n
SMF
R6
10k
C8
1u
Electrolyte 35V
R7
220k
C9
1u
SMF
R8
6k8
C10
100u
Electrolyte
R9
1k
C11
100u
Electrolyte
R10
6k8
D1
MA856
R11
1M
D2
MA856
R12
47k
D3
MA856
R13
47k
D4
MA856
D5
1S1588
VR1
B100k
Gain
D6
1S1588
VR2
B25k
Tone
D7
1N5817
VR3
A100k
Volume
DIP1
2 switch DIP
A=OD B=Distortion
VR4
B50k
Presence Trim pot

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General guideline for components
Capacitors: All values under 1nF should be ceramic disks. From 1nF up to 1uF should be MKT
(foil/metal film capacitors) and over 1uF use electrolyte caps (or tantalum) 16V+ rated and
watch out for polarity!
Resistors: use 1% metal film for the best results.
Socket the IC. This way you can easily mod them or replace them if they break.
General building tips
Soldering this board can be very complicated for some people since the solder pads are very close
together. Use a magnifying glass to make the job easier. If you want to experiment with other diodes
than you could socket them instead of soldering them to the board. You’ll need a 20 SIL, break off
the sockets and solder them to the board.
Start by soldering the resistors R1-R13. Then solder D1 –D6. They need to be soldered in an upright
position. Now solder the IC socket and then D5 and D6 also in an upright position.
Note: diodes are fragile!! Do not expose them to heat for too long or they’ll break. Do not blow on
your solder in an attempt to cool it down. That will possibly result in a bad join that might corrode.
Solder the small ceramic capacitator C2 next. Solder the MKT/SMF capacitors and the electrolyte
capacitors. C8 and C9 are made to fit both MKT as well as electrolyte watch the polarity the rectangle
pad is –the others are +.
Finally solder the Presence trim pot VR4 and the Dipswitches. If you want to switch the diodes
externally than you can mount 2 SPDT switches (A and B). Lug 1 on switch A goes to A1 and lug 2 to
A2. Ditto for switch B but the B1 and B2 off course. If you want to control the presence externally
than do not solder VR4 but use a B50k pot. For your convenience I marked the pinning on the PCB for
you. In version 1.0.3 pins 1 and 3 are reversed!
Place the IC and you are almost ready to rock.
Besides the components mentioned in the table on the first page, you will need:
2 input jacks. 2 mono jacks if you are not going to use a battery but only the 9V adapter. 1
mono (for output) and 1 stereo jack (for input) if you will be using both a 9V battery and the
9V adapter.
3PDT footswitch (9 pins). I also carry an easy off board circuit for true bypass.
2,1mm DC jack (isolated).
9v battery clip (optional).
LED
Hammond 1590B case (or similar) in your favorite color. A 1590BB will give you more room
to experiment with.

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Modifications
You can experiment with different diodes for D1-D6. MA856 and 1S1588 are very hard to
find and there are a lot of fakes sold from China. An alternative for MA856 is BA282 for
1S1588 there are 1N4001, BAT41, BAT46, but also think outside the box with 1n4148, 1n914
etc.
Using 2 Little Sultans of Tone are the same as the single board Sultan of Tone. The only
difference is that you’ll need to connect the 9V to both boards, but it will give you some
more flexibility when building it into the effect casing.
If you want the higher gain, then you simply need to switch out the B100k VR1 for a B250k.
You can also try different OpAmps like TL072, OPA2134, AD712, NE5532, JRC4558 etc.
Off board wiring
S
Tip
Tip
Ring
Ring
Output Jack
Input Jack
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
Footswitch
Sleeve
R led
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
Notice that in the “off” position the effect input is connected to ground to prevent possible
oscillation.
Blue = pin 1
White = pin 2
Yellow = pin 3

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The LED requires a resistor (R led in the diagram) depending on the type of LED you are using. An
ultra-bright red or blue LED requires a 1k5 resistor, Green requires 680R. If you want to be more
exact then go here: http://www.muzique.com/schem/led.htm
Dipswitch settings
Switch A (right switch) is CLEAN in the OFF setting and OD in the ON setting. Switch B (left switch) is
distortion in the ON setting. The position of the A switch is irrelevant at that point.
You can also replace the dipswitches with a 2P3T ON/OFF/ON switch to get OD/Clean/Distortion. You
will need to wire it like this:
A1
B1
A2
B2
Troubleshooting
All PCB’s have been e-tested 100% in the factory, so there should not be a connection problem on
the PCB itself.
The board is not working (at all), what now?
Check if your 9V is plugged in correctly (and/or soldered correctly on the board).
Check that you oriented the capacitors, IC’s ,transistors and diodes the right way. MKT
capacitors and resistors do not need to be oriented.
Check if you used the correct values of the components. For resistors you can look here:
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Electronics/Color/
Double and triple check your soldering! A lose or cold solder can be really bad for your board.
Replace the IC’s and transistors, one might be defective. Before doing that first unplug the 9V
and wait 5 seconds.
Check that you have good/high grade components. A lot of Chinese sourced parts are fakes
(especially high end opamps, vintage diodes and transistors) so be careful that you source
your parts from reliable suppliers.

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Schematic