Lithium Grim Sultan of Tone Instruction Manual

Sultan of Tone
Building instructions
V2.0

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Table of contents
Components ............................................................................................................................................ 3
PCB layout ............................................................................................................................................... 4
General guideline for components.......................................................................................................... 5
General building tips ............................................................................................................................... 5
Modifications........................................................................................................................................... 6
Off board wiring ...................................................................................................................................... 6
Diode switch settings .............................................................................................................................. 7
Troubleshooting ...................................................................................................................................... 8
Schematic ................................................................................................................................................ 9
Read this entire manual thoroughly before you start to building the effect! Especially the
Modification part. Decide before building the effect which mods you want to try so that you do not
need to desolder parts later.
Last update: 28-09-2017

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Components
Name
Value
Comment
Name
Value
Comment
C1
10n
SMF
R1
1M
C2
100p
Ceramic/SML
R2
1M
C3
10n
SMF
R3
27k
C4
10n
SMF
R4
33k
C5
100n
SMF
R5
10k
C6
10n
SMF
R6
10k
C7
10n
SMF
R7
220k
C8
1u
Electrolyte 35V
R8
6k8
C9
1u
SMF
R9
1k
C10
100u
Electrolyte
R10
6k8
C11
100u
Electrolyte
R11
1M
C12
10n
SMF
R12
1M
C13
100p
Ceramic/SML
R13
1M
C14
10n
SMF
R14
27k
C15
10n
SMF
R15
33k
C16
100n
SMF
R16
10k
C17
10n
SMF
R17
10k
C18
10n
SMF
R18
220k
C19
1u
Electrolyte 35V
R19
6k8
C20
1u
SMF
R20
1k
IC1
JRC4580D
R21
6k8
IC2
JRC4580D
R22
1M
LED
Red
3mm
R23
47k
LED
Orange
3mm
R24
47k
D1
MA856
D2
MA856
D3
MA856
VR1
B100k
Gain Red Channel
D4
MA856
VR2
B25k
Tone Red Channel
D5
1S1588
VR3
A100k
Volume Red Channel
D6
1S1588
VR4
B100k
Gain Orange Channel
D7
1N5817
VR5
B25k
Tone Orange Channel
D8
1S1588
VR6
A100k
Volume Orange Channel
D9
1S1588
VR7
B50k
Treble boost Red Channel
D10
MA856
VR8
B50k
Treble boost Orange Channel
D11
MA856
D12
MA856
D13
MA856

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PCB layout

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General guideline for components
Capacitors: All values under 1nF should be ceramic disks or silver mica. From 1nF up to 1uF
should be SMF (Panasonic stacked metal film) or MKT (Metallized plastic polyester) and
values over 1uF use electrolyte caps 16V+ rated and watch out for polarity! If you plan on
using a charge pump than all components must be 35V or more.
Resistors: use 1% metal film for the best results.
Socket the IC’s. This way you can easily mod them or replace them if they break.
General building tips
Soldering this board can be very complicated for some people since the solder pads are very close
together. Use a magnifying glass to make the job easier. If you want to experiment with other diodes
than you could socket them instead of soldering them to the board. You’ll need a 20 SIL, break off
the sockets and solder them to the board.
Start by soldering the resistors (but not yet VR7 and VR8) and then the diodes. All diodes need to be
soldered in an upright position except for D7.
Note: Diodes are fragile!! Do not expose them to heat for too long or they’ll break. Do not blow on
your solder in an attempt to cool it down. That will possibly result in a bad join that might corrode!
Solder the small ceramic capacitator C2 and C13 next.
Solder the 10n and 100n SMF/MKT capacitors. Next, solder the IC sockets, then the DIP switches
(only if you do not intend to use the external diode mod else leave out the dipswitches!) and lastly
solder the 1u SMF and electrolyte capacitors.
Finally solder the presence/treble boost trim pot VR7 and VR8. If you want to control the presence
externally than do not solder VR7 and VR8 but use a B50k pots. For your convenience I marked the
pinning on the PCB. The pots default setting is all the way to the right. To boost treble, turn the pots
to the left.
Place the IC and you are almost ready to rock.
Besides the components mentioned in the table on the page 3, you will need:
2 input jacks. 2 mono jacks if you are not going to use a battery but only the 9V adapter. 1
mono (for output) and 1 stereo jack (for input) if you will be using both a 9V battery and the
9V adapter.
2x 3PDT footswitch (9 pins). I also sell an easy off board circuit for true bypass.
2,1mm DC jack (isolated).
9v battery clip (optional).
22 gage stranded hook-up wire.
2 x LED (Green and Red or Orange and Red)
Hammond 1590BB case (or similar) in your favorite color. A Hammond 1590DD or
Hammond 1590XX will give you more room to build especially when using an external
presence pot.

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Modifications
You can experiment with different diodes for D1-D6 and D8-D13. MA856 and 1S1588 are
very hard to find and there are a lot of fakes sold from China. An alternative for MA856 is
BA282. For 1S1588 there are 1n4148, 1n914 but also think outside the box with 1N4001,
BAT41, BAT46, LED’s etc. If you want to experiment then socket the diodes!
Watch out with using Germanium diodes. The volume drop might be too big!
You can also choose to do 1 side MA856 and the other 1S1588. For instance make D1-D6 all
1S1588 and D8-D13 all MA856.
For the High Gain mod just switch out the B100k VR4 (and/or VR1) for a B250k.
You can also try different OpAmps like TL072, OPA2134, AD712, NE5532, JRC4558 etc.
Off board wiring
S
Input Jack
Tip
Sleeve
Ring
Footswitch
Orange
Footswitch
Red
Tip
Sleeve
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
R led
Orange
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
Red
R led
Output Jack
As you can see the off board wiring is quite complex!
The LEDs requires a resistor (R led in the diagram) depending on the type of LED you are using. An
ultra-bright red, orange or blue LED requires a 3k3 resistor. If you want to be more exact then go
here: http://www.muzique.com/schem/led.htm
Blue = pin 1
White = pin 2
Yellow = pin 3

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You can also decide to apply the 4 input/output mod. With this mod the output from the red channel
is not patched to the input of the orange channel, but you make both accessible with their own jack.
S
Input Jack
Red
Tip
Sleeve
Ring
Footswitch
Orange
Footswitch
Red
Tip
Sleeve
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
R led
Orange
Cathode (short leg)
Anode (long leg)
Red
R led
Output Jack
Orange
Output Jack
Red
M
Input Jack
Orange
Diode switch settings
Instead of using the dipswitches, you can make either 4 external SPDT switches for or 2 DP3T
switches. If you choose 4 separate switches, it will look something like this:
A/B/C/D
Switches A, B, C, D can all be connected the same way as shown in the picture above. All ways of
connecting both wires to the switch are valid as long as you do not connect it to both outer lugs.
The switch settings are independent of using DIP or separate switches and are as follows:
Channel
Red
Orange
(Dip) Switch
A
B
C
D
Clean
OFF
OFF
OFF
OFF
OD
ON
OFF
ON
OFF
Distortion
X
ON
X
ON
X = setting is irrelevant, either ON or OFF
So If you want an OD Red channel and a distortion Orange channel then it is:
A:ON B: OFF C: X D:ON

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You can also use a DP3T switch per channel to select OD (Up)/Clean (Middle)/Distortion (Down). You
will need an ON/OFF/ON switch for that and wire it like this:
A
B
C
D
Red Channel Orange Channel
Troubleshooting
All PCB’s have been 100% factory e-tested and out of every batch I receive I build a effect to double
check, so there should not be a connection problem on the PCB itself.
The board is not working (at all), what now?
Check if your 9V is plugged in correctly (and/or soldered correctly on the board).
Check that you oriented the capacitors, IC’s ,transistors and diodes the right way. SMF, MKT
capacitors and resistors do not need to be oriented.
Check if you used the correct values of the components. For resistors you can look here:
http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Electronics/Color/
Double and triple check your soldering! A loose or cold solder can be really bad for your
board.
Replace the IC’s and transistors, one might be defective. Before doing that first unplug the 9V
and wait 5 seconds.
Check that you have good/high grade components. A lot of Chinese sourced parts are fakes
(especially high end opamps, vintage diodes and transistors) so be careful that you source
your parts from reliable suppliers.

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Schematic