Mason County Public Health Septic System User manual

SEPTIC SYSTEM
USER’S MANUAL
Care and Feeding of Your On-Site Sewage System
by Toby Tahja-Syrett
Mason County Public Health
P.O. Box 1666
Shelton, WA 98584
[phone] ext. 352

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PROPERTY ADDRESS: ________________________________________________________________
CITY, STATE, ZIP: ____________________________________________________________________
PARCEL NUMBER: ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ -- ___ ___ -- ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
•Your major system components are checked below.
•First, read Sections 1 & 2 to learn the basics everyone
needs to know about using and maintaining a septic
system.
•Then turn to the pages shown next to your system
components below. To learn more about how your
system works and how to maintain it, be sure to
follow the links on all pages.
System Type:
□Gravity Distribution (pg 31) □Pressure Distribution (pg 32) □Sub-Surface Drip (pg 33)
□Glendon Biofilter (pg 34) □Sand Filter (pg 35) □Mound (pg 36) □Sand Lined Drainfield (pg 37)
□Aerobic Treatment Unit (ATU). Make/model: ______________________________________ (pg 38)
□Recirculating Filter. Type: _____________________________________________________ (pg 39)
□Disinfection Unit. Make/model: _________________________________________________ (pg 55)
Other Components:
□Septic Tank (pg 40) □Trash Trap (pg 42) □Grease Trap (pg 44)
□Pump Tank (pg 41) □Pump Basin (pg 43) □Commercial System (pg 57)
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CONTENTS
Purpose of this Manual 4
Your Mission 4
How to use this Manual 4
Important Contact Information 5
Section 1: System Do’s and Don’ts
Do’s 6
Don’ts 9
Section 2: Information for all Septic System Users
What’s in it For You? 13
What is a Septic System Anyway? 14
Common Problems
High Flows 15
Garbage Disposals and High Strength Waste 15
Septic Tank Additives and Chemicals 16
Water Softeners and Hot Tubs 16
Do You Know Where Your System Is?
Locating Your System 16
Keeping Your System Accessible 17
Hiding in Plain Sight 19
Protecting Your System 19
Preventing Unauthorized Access 19
Landscaping Your System 20
Forget About It? 20
Maintaining Adequate Reserve Area 20
Pumping Your System
Why Pumping is Important 21
How Often Should it be Pumped 22
Tanks Safety Checklist 23
Inspecting and Maintaining Your System
Conduct Regular Checks and Maintenance 24
Hire a Pro 24
Look at the Whole Thing 24
Special Systems – Special Requirements 24
Maintaining Your Records 25
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Alarms 25
What is A Failure 26
When Should I Call A Professional? 27
Troubleshooting Common Problems 28
Section 3: Individual System Information
System Configuration Drawings
Gravity Distribution 31
Pressure Distribution 32
Sub-Surface Drip Distribution 33
Glendon Biofilter 34
Sand Filter 35
Mound 36
Sand-Lined Drainfield 37
Aerobic Treatment Unit (ATU) 38
Recirculating Filter 39
Component Fact Sheets
Septic Tank 40
Pump Tank 41
Trash Trap 42
Pump Basin 43
Grease Trap 44
Aerobic Treatment Unit (ATU) 45
Recirculating Filter 46
Sand Filter 47
Sand-Lined Drainfield 48
Gravity Drainfield 49
Pressure Drainfield 50
Sub-surface Drip Drainfield 51
Mound Disposal 52
Glendon Biofilter Disposal 53
Alarms & Control Panels 54
Disinfection Units 55
Reserve Area 56
Commercial Systems 57
As-Built Worksheet 59
Maintenance Record Log 60
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Purpose of This Manual
This manual is a guide to owning and maintaining your septic system. It is
designed to cover the major issues that you may face, and hopefully to give you
a better understanding and appreciation of how your system works and why.
Your Mission – Should You
Choose to Accept It…
Congratulations. Now that you own an on-site
sewage system, you have become a wastewater
treatment plant operator (just on a very small
scale). You are also a farmer – of bacteria that is.
Your mission, should you choose to accept it is to
properly operate and maintain your system and
make sure at all times to keep your micro-livestock
happy. Happy bugs in your system means they are
alive, well, and doing their job to turn your smelly
sewage into clean, clear, recycled water.
Your first step is to read this manual and try to
follow it’s advice. And remember – be nice to your
system and it will be nice to you.
How to Use This Manual
This manual is organized to cover all types of systems, and you should read
Section’s 1 and 2 no matter what type of system you have. Section 1 is a Do’s
and Don’t list to familiarize you with what you should and shouldn’t be doing with
your system. Section 2 covers the basics that affect all on-site septic systems.
Section 3 describes different system components, their place in the system, how
they work and their maintenance requirements.
In order for you to understand your particular system, look at the front cover of
this manual and see which System Type and other Components have been
checked. Then turn to the pages shown next to the items to read more.
Example – System Type: ATU – read page 38. (Make sure and follow all
page links on page 38).
Other components: Pump Basin – read page 43.
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Important Contact Information:
Mason County Public Health
426 W. Cedar St.
P.O. Box 1666
Shelton, WA 98584
Shelton [phone], Ext. 352
Belfair [phone]
Elma [phone]
FAX: [phone]
WEB: http://www.co.mason.wa.us/envhealth/index.php
Your System Designer:
(If you don’t know, check your approved permit & design or contact Mason County)
Designer: __________________________________ Phone: _______________
Your System Installer:
(If you don’t know, check your approved as-built or contact Mason County)
Installer: ___________________________________ Phone: _______________
Your Septic Tank Pumper:
(contact Mason County for an approved list)
Pumper: ___________________________________ Phone: ______________
Your Operation & Maintenance (O&M) Provider:
(contact Mason County for approved list)
O&M Provider: ______________________________ Phone: ______________
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SECTION 1:
Septic System Do’s
and Don’ts
DO’S
1. Do keep your as-built system diagram, design, permit, and all related records
in a safe place for reference. Know where your septic tank system is and
keep a diagram of it’s location. Records may be available at your local health
agency. They will be helpful if problems occur, and will be valuable to the next
owner of your home.
2. Do keep accurate maintenance records. Make sure whoever services your
tank keeps provides a written report and ask for a copy for your own records.
System records are often necessary when applying for future permits for
decks, remodels, expansions, etc. and will help future contractors locate and
protect your system.
3. Do practice water conservation. By reducing the amount of water going into
your system you can extend the life of the system and lower power
consumption.
4. Do reduce water use by:
•Using low flow faucets, showers and toilets.
•Running appliances one at a time (dishwasher, washing machine, etc).
•Spreading laundry over the entire week and avoid partial loads.
•Washing only full loads of dishes and laundry.
•Taking showers instead of baths
•Limiting shower length
•Taking baths with a partially filled tub
•Fixing all faucets and toilet leaks promptly
•Turning water off while brushing, shaving, etc.
5. Do consider purchasing a front-loading, high efficiency, low-water use washing
machine at replacement time. These machines have become comparable in
price to top-loaders and use much less water and electricity – saving your
septic system and your money.
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6. Do install faucet aerators or other water saving devices on all sinks. You can
also cut down on sink water by turning down the valves under the sink to
lower gallons per minute coming out of the faucet.
7. Do put a water-displacing device (bag, brick, plastic water bottle) in your toilet
tank to save water by reducing flush volume. Or bend the float arm downward
to lower the amount of water needed to fill the reservoir. Or, consider
replacing older toilets with new low-flush models.
8. Do be aware that a simple toilet float can hang up and result in
thousands of gallons of wasted water per day into the system and
quickly kill it.
9. Do check to make sure your toilet tank isn’t leaking into the bowl. You can
place 5 drops of food coloring in the tank. Wait a few hours to see if the color
is showing up in the bowl below, and repair or replace the toilet if it is.
10. Do clean the lint filter on the washing machine (if you have one) at least as
often as the manufacturer recommends. This usually takes less than a
minute. Lint can cause your drainfield to plug up resulting in a costly failure. If
your washer doesn’t have a lint filter, consider installing one. They usually
retrofit onto the end of the discharge hose .
11. Do use liquid, phosphate-free laundry detergent and no more than the
recommended amount. Phosphate-free detergents help keep your drainfield
critters from being overfed and help prevent algae
problems in nearby lakes and streams.
12. Do reduce the discharge of greases
and oils. Scrape dishes, pots and
plates and be sure to remove all
grease. Wipe with paper towels if
necessary (not wash rags). Place
grease in trash NOT DOWN THE
SINK.
13. Do compost your food wastes or put
them in the trash. Compost bins are
available at your local home & garden
store.
14. Do be aware that medications used in the house can have an adverse effect
on the system. Long term use of antibiotics and chemotherapy kill bacteria in
your tank. Have your system inspected more frequently and consult with a
maintenance professional to work on a solution. Some HMO’s have an
disposal drop-off for un-used medications.
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15. Do familiarize yourself with the location of your septic system and drainfield.
Contact the county Health Department for a copy of your records.
16. Do direct water from downspouts, roofs, streets, driveways, drains and
surface runoff away from drainfield. Additional water from these sources can
overload your system and prevent it from working properly.
17. Do direct all water away from the tank area. Water infiltration
into tanks is a major cause of drainfield overload.
18. Do keep cars and trucks, RV’s, etc. off the septic
tank and drainfield areas. This prevents pipes
from breaking and soil from becoming
compacted. Compacted soils can’t absorb
water from the drainfield.
19. Do feel free to place a birdbath, potted plant or
other yard decoration on tank riser lids, as long as it can be
easily removed for access. Landscaping or permanent structures should be
planned around your septic system to ensure its components and functionality
isn’t jeopardized.
20. Do keep all lids, ports, valve boxes, etc. easily accessible. You or your
contractor will have to get back to these components for monitoring and
maintenance.
21. Do plant grass and/or other shallow-rooted plants on your drainfield. Plants
such as grass can play a major role in disposing of household wastewater by
absorption and transpiration. But please, no shrubs or trees, as they have
larger root systems which could intrude in the drainfield and cause drainfield
pipe plugging.
22. Do keep irrigation or sprinkler systems at least 10 feet from drainfield. Extra
water can overload your system.
23. Do ensure the ground over your drainfield and tanks is higher than
surrounding areas and sloped to keep surface water from pooling.
24. Do make arrangements with a reliable service person to provide regular
monitoring and maintenance. See Section 3 for information on how often your
system components should be checked by yourself or a certified O&M
provider.
25. Do inspect your system annually. See page 21 for information on how often
your tank needs to be pumped. Regular pumping ensures that solids will not
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flow from the septic tank into the drainfield. Solids can destroy the drainfield,
and pumping will not bring a failed drainfield back to life.
26. Do have your entire system checked regularly. Pumpers often only check the
tank. A licensed Operation and Maintenance (O&M) provider can thoroughly
inspect your entire system to see if it’s working properly. A list of licensed
O&M providers is available by calling the Health Department.
27. Do call an expert when you think you may have problems. Although some
major malfunctions may require complete drainfield replacement, many
problems can be corrected with a minimum amount of cost and effort.
28. Do familiarize yourself with the location of the system alarm & control panel
and respond to alarm conditions promptly. Ignoring repeated alarms is a
recipe for disaster. See page 25 for more information on alarms.
29. Do remember that the audible alarm can be silenced by pushing the lighted
button, lever, etc., usually labeled “PUSH TO SILENCE” and on the front or
side of the electrical control panel. However, don’t just silence and ignore.
30. Do remember: most alarms are caused by water over-use in the house, or
leaky tanks taking in groundwater in the winter. In the house, cut back water
use until the alarm clears. Call a septic installer to fix leaky tanks.
Septic System Do’s and Don’ts
DON’TS
1. Don’t do more than one or two loads of laundry a day if possible.
2. Don’t drain a bath, take a shower, wash clothes, wash dishes, etc. at the
same time. Large amounts of water entering the system in a short time
can disrupt the tank and wash solids into the drainfield.
3. Don’t allow leaky fixtures to drip. The extra water adds up quickly and
overloads your system.
4. Don’t use a garbage disposal. If you have a garbage disposal, consider
getting rid of it or use as rarely as possible. A septic system repeatedly
overloaded with organic solids may plug up and quit working. Compost
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scraps or dispose of in your trash.
5. Don’t pour grease down your drain. Collect it in a container and dispose
of it in the trash.
6. Don’t use large amounts of bath and body oils.
7. Don’t overuse soaps and detergents – use liquids and concentrates
whenever possible. Compulsive cleaning and
disinfection with bleach and other anit-
bacterial products is a common cause of
system failure because it kills the healthy
organisms in your system needed to
make it work properly.
8. Don’t use septic tank additives or
“miracle” system cleaners. These
chemicals can actually harm your on-
site sewage system by allowing solids to
flow into and clog the drainfield. The
chemicals can also contaminate ground
and surface water.
9. Don’t discharge water softener backwash into the septic tank. The
backwash brine contains high levels of chlorides that can destroy
microorganisms, and the added water can overload your system.
10. Don’t use toilet tank deodorizers or other chlorine products in your toilet.
Chlorine damages the rubber seals and gaskets, and may cause them to
leak, overloading the system.
11. Don’t flush floor wax, rug cleaners, or other chemicals into your septic
tank. These products will interfere with the normal operation of your
system.
12. Don’t flush pool or spa products into your system.
13. Don’t pour strong chemicals, abrasive cleaning products or other
bacteria-destroying products down drains such as:
•Drain/floor/sink
cleaners
•Excessive amounts of
bleach
•Pesticides & herbicides
•Paint & Thinners
•Solvents
•Motor oil
•Antifreeze
•Photo chemicals
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14.Don’t dispose of excessive food preparation wastes down the drain such
as home canning wastes, wine/beer making wastes, fish or game waste,
etc. Compost or dispose of in the trash.
15. Don’t flush excessive pet wastes down the drain. Dispose of in trash or in
an appropriate way outside (such as a pet waste compost system).
16.Don’t dispose of inappropriate materials down the drain. Don’t flush trash
or other non-biodegradable solid wastes such as:
•Diapers
•Coffee grounds
•Grease
•Plastics
•Kitty litter
•Paper towels
•Cigarette butts
•Oils
•Bones
•Dental floss
•Hair
•Tampons/Pads
•Egg Shells
17. Don’t dig into or around your system tanks, filters or drainfield areas.
18. Don’t ditch, or grade your drainfield or the areas immediately adjacent to
it. This could cause a disruption of the system, surfacing sewage, and
possible system failure.
19. Don’t dig without knowing where your system components, water lines,
and power lines are. Knowing the location of your underground utilities
can help you avoid costly repairs when digging in your yard.
20. Don’t disturb or compact the soil over filters or
drainfield or within 30’ of the downhill side of
mound-type systems.
21. Don’t remove or damage inspection
ports.
22. Don’t plant medium or large plants,
shrubs or trees on or near system
components. 10’ is a good setback for
deep-rooted plants. Grass or other
shallow-rooted plants over the drainfield is
best.
23. Don’t park vehicles or heavy equipment
(including boats, RVs, tractors, trailers, etc.) over drainfield.
24. Don’t drive on the tanks, filters, or drainfield areas or within 30’ downhill
from mound-type systems.
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25. Don’t drive over your tank or any buried pipes. If your system is near a
traffic area, put up a fence, hedge, or other barricade to prevent damage.
26. Don’t repair without permits. Any short-term savings could be offset by
having the wrong thing repaired or by legal entanglements.
27. Don’t cover filters or drainfields with impermeable materials such as
plastic sheeting, concrete, asphalt, above-ground swimming pools, etc.
This prevents the bacteria that break down and purify the sewage from
getting the oxygen the need.
28. Don’t raise or lower the level of the ground over filters or drainfield areas.
Adding soil decreases your systems ability to breathe.
29. Don’t drain hot tubs, waterbeds or other large amounts of water into the
system. Large volumes of water are harmful to the system, and the
chlorine can destroy important bacteria in the system. Drain hot tubs onto
the ground, away from the drainfield but not into a storm drain.
30. Don’t connect rain gutters or storm drains to
your septic system, or allow surface water to
drain into it.
31. Don’t dump recreational vehicle (RV)
waste into your septic tank. The
system is designed for your residence
flow and may not be able to handle
the extra load. RV waste may also
contain chemicals that are toxic or
that may hamper the biological activity
in your system.
32. Don’t build, place sidewalks, or pave over
your drainfield or reserve areas. This causes
compaction of the soil, and prevents oxygen from reaching the drainfield.
Compaction destroys the soils ability to absorb wastewater.
33. Don’t turn off electricity to the septic system pumps when going on
vacation. If there is any leak or flow into the system, the pump will need to
run or sewage could back up into the house or on the ground.
34. Don’t reset timers or other system controls. A certified professional is the
only person who should be altering your system settings. If you’re having
problems, call a professional, don’t fumble around for a fix – chances are
you may be making it worse.
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SECTION 2:
Information for All Septic System Users
What’s in it For You?
Why should you maintain your septic system? You just paid a fortune for this
new system and the first thing you are told is to get to work maintaining it. It isn’t
that difficult, especially when you understand the following three
health risks that result when you ignore your system and put
it “out of sight, out of mind”.
1. The Health of your pocketbook. If you
recently paid to have your system installed, you
already know what this means. A wise person
once said “If you can’t afford to do it right the
first time, then how will you be able to afford to
do it over again?” We couldn’t agree more. On-
Site Septic Systems are expensive. If you don’t
properly care for your system, it will fail and you
will be paying to repair or replace it. It’s that simple.
2. The Health of your family, community and environment. Your septic
system – when properly operated – does a very important community service.
It takes dangerous waste and turns it into clean water. All it asks in return for
keeping you safe is a little help from above (above the
ground that is). A properly functioning
system eliminates harmful bacteria and
viruses that can make humans sick, and it
also reduces pollution (such as nitrogen
and phosphorus) which can make the
environment sick.
3. The Health of your economy: Here in the
Northwest, water related tourism, fishing
and shellfish are very big industries that
provide income for
thousands and help
keep our economy pumping. If you love to see shellfish beds that aren’t
closed due to low water quality, you’ll have your system checked regularly,
keep it maintained, and have it pumped when necessary.
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What is a Septic System Anyway?
No matter what type of tanks and other components you have, your system is
above all else, a wastewater treatment and disposal machine. It takes all the
smelly, icky sewage coming out of your home and collects it, treats it, then allows
the purified water to flow back into the environment.
How does it do this you might wonder? The short answer is bugs – bacteria and
other microorganisms. These tiny creatures are present almost everywhere, yet
invisible to the naked eye. They don’t have to be placed in your system, they are
already present from the first flush both in your waste and in the soil of the
drainfield.
They thrive on the waste coming into your system – in the tanks, filters and
drainfield, they grow, multiply, and eat up all the bad stuff. What’s left after they
get done with their feast? Purified water. This clean water flows into the soil
under your drainfield and then eventually groundwater tables feeding lakes,
rivers, streams, and Puget Sound.
To help keep your bugs happy, please follow these general requirements:
•Keep them from drowning – Keep flows low and all water diverted away
from your system areas, especially the drainfield.
•Don’t overfeed them – minimize food scraps and excessive soaps, oils,
greases, etc. going in to the system.
•Don’t poison them – keep strong chemicals, cleaners and additives out!
THANKS!
I
SEWAGE
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Common Problems
High Flows
Your system is only designed to handle a limited amount of sewage per day. For
residences, the design flow should be 120 gallons per day per bedroom in the
home, or 60 gallons per person per day. This design flow is a maximum. Average
daily flows should be 60-70% of the design flow. Operating at maximum design
flow on a daily basis is like driving your car with the engine revved up to the
redline at all times. It isn’t recommended unless you want to
blow your engine.
Excessive water coming from the house can
cause some serious negative effects on your
system. Remember – your system was designed
to handle a limited amount of water per day.
High flow can cause solids to be washed from
your tanks into your drainfield, plugging it up
and causing it to surface. Also, just the sheer
volume of water going to the drainfield may be
more than the soil can absorb, causing sewage
breakout on the ground, not to mention unpleasant
smells and costly repairs.
Always try to limit your water use. Don’t do seven loads of laundry on one day –
instead, do one load a day for seven days if possible. If you are planning a large
gathering, reunion, etc. rent ‘port-a-potties’ for the event. This will prevent your
system from being overloaded. Install low flow fixtures and appliances if possible
and fix leaking toilets and faucets. Remember, it’s easier than fixing your septic
system.
Garbage Disposals and High Strength Waste
A Garbage Disposal (usually under the kitchen sink) is a standard appliance in
many homes. However, using a garbage disposal can be very unhealthy for your
septic system (and your bank account). Garbage Disposals have been shown to
increase solids levels in the septic system up to 33% faster, which means you’ll
be pumping your tank more frequently. Disposals can also greatly increase the
waste strength, making more work for your system. Excess solids and high waste
strength will mean higher maintenance costs and could lead to premature failure
of the system – both of which will put the squeeze on your pocketbook. Limit your
grinder use (if you have one), or consider eliminating it entirely. Compost food
wastes or put them in the trash.
Other practices can also increase waste strength. Any and all products making
their way down the drain are things your system has to attempt to clean and
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dispose of. Excessive use of cleaning products, excessive food preparation,
home canning or other food processing, using a lot of oils, soaps, toilet paper,
etc. all can have a negative impact on your system. Keep them to a minimum or
find alternative disposal methods.
Septic Tank Additives and Chemicals
You’ve gotten the phone call. Some telemarketer is on the line trying to sell you a
‘miracle in a can’ which will prevent you from ever having to pump your septic
tank again, rejuvenate your drainfield, etc. The proper response is “no thanks”.
Septic tank additives have been shown to have no positive effect on your system.
Some may even be harmful, interfering with your system’s proper functioning,
and contaminating groundwater.
Water Softeners and Hot Tubs
Water softeners are the subject of debate over causes of septic system failure.
These devices generally add sodium to the system and also elevate the amount
of water sent into the system. At this time, there is no conclusive evidence that
water softeners harm your system, although the jury is still out. The safest
alternative is to NOT dump backwash into your system. Since this is not sewage,
the softener can be plumbed to discharge to an outside footing or other drain.
The same goes for hot tubs – Drain them in the yard and not in your septic
system!
Pop Quiz – Do You Know Where Your System Is?
Locating your system
There are many reasons to know where your septic system is. The most
important ones are to protection and monitoring. You want to protect it from
damaging activities such as ditching and parking. And you (or your hired
professionals) want to monitor it to ensure it is functioning properly.
In order to do either one of these things, it is first necessary to know where your
system is located. The system design and system as-built can help you find
major components. If you don’t have these documents, call Mason County Public
Health. They can perform a search for your records and mail you a copy of what
they have on file. You can also try contacting the system designer and installer to
see if they have records.
Once you locate your system’s access points, mark them if necessary. Make
note of their locations on the system ‘as-built’ drawing, and keep them free and
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clear. If you don’t have an ‘as-built’ drawing and one isn’t available from the
county or a contractor, use the form on page 59 to create your own.
BC
D
EF
A
A
CAN I F IND THE
SEPTIC TANK?
Use a metal detector
to locate metal
handles o n concrete
tanks
B
C
F
E
D
An area where:
IN WHAT PARTOF
THE YARD IS THE
SEPTIC SYSTEM
LOCATED?
* If no access pipes are
showing, locate the
sewer p ipe in the
crawls pace or bas ement.
* Che ck existing plans
Adapted fromUniversity of Minnesota's Septic SystemOwner's Guide - 2002
FINDING YOUR SYS TEM
The e xposed en d of a
drainfie ld pipe?
Maki ng sure to stay
clear of underg round
utilities (power, ga s, etc.)
Begin probing f iv e to
ten feet fr om the
hous e with a m etal
rod, liste ning for a
hollow sound. Th e tank
will be at least as deep
as the outgoing sewer
pip e.
WHAT C LUES WILL H ELP ME
LOCATE THE DRAIN FIELD?
A mound or settled area?
* Snow melts more
quic kly?
* The g r ass doesn ' t grow
as wel l, or where i t grows
greener and fa ster?
* The earth is soggy or
there is moisture-lov ing
v eget ation?
Keeping your system accessible
Don’t bury tank access lids under ground, under decks or under future additions.
Some one will need to get back in those tanks periodically to pump and inspect
them.
Don’t bury valve boxes or observation ports and cleanouts. Valve boxes provide
access to system valves for flushing and future adjustments. Observation ports
allow easy checking of the drainfield to see if it’s working properly or ponding.
Cleanout ports provide access points to the ends of pressure distribution laterals
so they can be flushed and cleaned when necessary.
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Finally, keeping your components accessible is the best way to keep them in
view, and therefore remember where they are. They are also especially helpful in
aiding a new owner, pumper or maintenance person in figuring out where
components are located.
WHAT DO YOU
MEAN YOU CAN'T
CHANGE THE OIL? MA'AM, THE HOOD
IS WELDED SHUT.
I CAN'T EVEN
CHECK IT.
MECHANIC
These are the problems with non-accessible systems:
•Since no one can easily look at them, no one does. This means that if they
have problems no one knows until they are bigger and harder to fix.
•If and when someone does decide to look in on the system, they will have to
dig up the yard. This can cost a lot of money and really wreaks havoc on
those new flower beds you spent all weekend on.
If you have a system that does not have accessible components, you must
seriously consider making them accessible for monitoring and maintenance.
Having your system inspected by a knowledgeable operation and maintenance
(O&M) provider can help you identify access problems and how to fix them. It
may cost a little money to upgrade your system, but you could be saving the cost
of a full replacement if it’s not maintained properly.
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