McLaughlin International Optimist User manual

McLaughlin Optimist Owners Manual
Congratulations on the purchase of your new McLaughlin International Optimist Dinghy. The Optimist
is your stepping stone into a lifetime of sailing, we hope it brings you as much joy as it has brought to
us. Should you encounter problems rigging your new Optimist, your local dealer and McLaughlin Boat
Works are ready to assist you by phone. [phone] or 423-875-0740 for international) In addition,
our web page is packed with technical data on rigging and tuning. (www.iod95.com)
(1) Parts of the Optimist
The most important part of your new Optimist is it's Measurement and Registration Certificate. This
certificate is issued by the United States Optimist Dinghy Association (USODA, 407-774-7880) and
verifies that your boat is a class legal IOD and has been registered in your name. If you do not receive
your certificate by mail in 4-6 weeks, contact McLaughlin or your local dealer for help.
McLaughlin Rigging Instructions
Getting Started.
These instructions are written specifically for the McLaughlin Club Racer and Trainer. Racing
models, including the Intermediate Racer, Advanced Racer, Elite and Pro have supplemental
rigging instructions included with each racing spar set.
1.
Unpack your new McLaughlin Optimist and spread out the parts on a clean, dry section of grass.
Take a moment to look over the parts list and familiarize yourself with the major parts. (see
illustration (1))
2.

PARTS LIST
Owners Manual Sail
Hull 3 Air Bags
Spar Set with mast, boom and sprit Bailing Bucket with lanyard
(Racing Spars include a B-Pack with wind
pennant, sail ties and sprit halyard, plus
pre-rigged vang, bridle and outhaul)
Bow line: 28 foot 3/16 yellow
Rudder and Tiller/Hiking Stick
Centerboard with Tie in line
Boom Block with Becket: Main Sheet: 21 foot 5/16 purple
Line Pack: (Club Racer only)
(1) 3/16 x 30 in. red Boom Vang (1) 3/16 x 58 in. blue Lower Sprit Line
(1) 3/16 x 40 in. red Out Haul (1) 3/16 x 39 in. blue Upper Sprit Line
(14) 2 mm x 12 in. purple Sail Ties (6) 3 mm x 18 in. purple Corner Ties
(1) 3 mm x 18 in. purple Preventer 1 Harken Micro Block
(1) 3 mm x 60 in. lime Boom Bridle with the Trigger Snap attached.
See your packing list or sales receipt for non-stock items such as: Racing Sails, Praddles,
Covers, Blade Bags, or Dolly.
Required Tools.
Flat Head Screw Driver1.
Small Adjustable Wrench or Pliers2.
Install your air bags.
Slide your uninflated air bags into the straps on each side and in the stern of the hull. The bags
can be inflated manually or with a low pressure air pump or compressor.
1.
Note: Do not over inflate the air bags! When properly filled, the air bags will be soft to the touch.
Over inflated bags may burst when heated by the sun or rising temperatures.
2.
Lay out the mast and boom on the ground.
The Mast and Boom form an "L" shape, with the jaws of the boom fitting tightly around the mast
about halfway between the two mast cleats. Refer to illustration (1)
1.
Note that the eye straps on the top of the mast should be opposite the boom, as is the white
Preventer Button. Also note that the lip on the end of the boom and the buttons toward the middle
of the boom should be facing up.
2.
Tie on the sail.
Lay the Sail in place and remove the two bundles of
thin purple line from the line pack.
1.
Start with the Corner Ties. (the bundle of 6, 3 mm
18 in. purple lines) Each corner tie should be passed
through a sail grommet and around the spar twice,
for extra strength. Illustrations (2) and (3) will help
you identify the parts of the sail and how they are
2.

(2) Parts of the Sail
(3a) Head
(3b) Tack
tied.
Tie the Head of the sail first. Start by lining up the
top sail grommet and the top mast eye. Tie around
the entire mast passing through the top sail grommet
and the top eye strap. Next, tie from the top sail
grommet through the lower eye strap. This tie
should not be tight, it should only prevent the first
tie slipping over the top of the mast. (see illustration
(3a))
3.
Tie the Tack next. The tack uses two corner ties,
one to secure it to the mast and one to secure it to
the boom. (see illustration (3b))
4.
Tie the Clew last. A common mistake is tying the
clew directly to the lip on the end of the boom, this
is incorrect. The clew should be tied around the
boom so that it slides freely.
5.
The 6th corner tie is used for the Boom Preventer.
(see illustration (3b)) The boom preventer is a sling
that rests on the mast's Boom Preventer Button.
It's purpose is to control the height of the boom, and
therefore the tension in the Luff. To rig the boom
preventer, tie a stopper knot in one end of the corner
tie. Next, thread the free end of the corner tie
through one of the holes in the boom jaw (from the
bottom to the top), loop over the preventer button on
the mast, and through the other boom jaw hole.
Now secure it with a stopper knot in the free end of
the corner tie.
6.
Now that the corners are ready, use the Sail Ties
(bundle of 14 thin purple lines) to finish tying the
sail. The ties along the mast should be tight, with no
more than 1/8 in. between the sail and the mast. The
ties along the boom should have a space of about
1/4 in. between the sail and the boom.
7.
Rig your boom bridle.
Locate the two Boom Bridle Buttons on the top side of the boom, each is about
midway to center on either end. Attach the Boom Bridle (3 mm, 60 in. yellow line with
the trigger snap on it) to the boom by tying around the boom on the outside of each
button. (see illustration (4))
1.

(4) Outhaul and Bridle
Rig your control lines.
Locate the Boom Vang Button near the jaw end of
the boom. Use the Vang line (3/16, 30 in. Red line)
to tie around the boom so that the button prevents
the line from sliding toward the mast. Then tread the
line through the vang cleat on the mast , from the
bottom to the top.
1.
Now rig your Outhaul. Tie a stopper knot in the
end of the line. From the back of the boom, thread
the line through the hole in the lip of the boom end,
through the sail grommet, then back out the hole in
the boom end. Now run the line through the cleat
located on the side of the boom.
2.
The next sail control is the Sprit Halyard. Locate
the Sprit Halyard Block on the front side of the
mast. Run the Upper Sprit Line (3/16, 39 in. blue)
through it and tie a small bowline (loop) in one end.
To the other end, tie the Micro Block provided with
your line pack. Now locate the Lower Sprit Line
(3/16, 58 in. blue line) and tie one end to the bridge
of the Sprit Halyard Cleat. Next, run the free end
of the lower sprit line through the Micro block and
through the sprit halyard cleat. (see illustration (6))
3.
(5) Boom Vang
(6)
Sprit Halyard
Stepping the mast.
Point the bow of the boat into the wind.1.
Pick up your rig and put the mast through the hole in the thwart (deck) and into the
Mast Step. (see illustration (1))
2.
Raise the Sprit by placing the tip of the upper end (the end w/o the plastic chafe guard)
into the loop at the peak of the sail. Place the lower end into the loop you tied into the
upper sprit line and adjust the tension at the sprit halyard cleat. Remember that the sprit
is always rigged on the starboard (right) side of the mast.
3.

Rig the Main Sheet.
Start by securing the Boom Block to the boom
bridle with the trigger snap. The trigger snap is your
quick release system for the sail.
1.
Tie one end of the Main Sheet (21 foot 5/16 purple
line) to the boom block becket (the white nylon
part). Run the free end through the small hull block
from back to front, through the boom block from
front to back and through the large ratchet block.
(see illustration (7)) Make sure that the ratchet block
"clicks" when the main sheet is tightened and locks
when the main sheet is released. If you prefer to turn
off the ratchet, you can do so by adjusting the slide
on the side of the block.
2.
Secure the Mast Tie Down! This is the most
important line on the boat. It is already properly
installed on the deck in front of the mast hole. To
secure the Mast Tie Down, tie around the mast and
over the vang cleat. It is very important that this line
is always tied, and tied tightly. (see illustration (8))
Failure to secure this line will result in a dismasting
during capsize and can seriously damage your
Optimist.
3.
(7) Main Sheet
(8) Mast Tie Down
Assemble the rudder.
Remove the Tiller, Rudder and Daggerboard from it's protective packaging. Don't throw away
the packaging until you've accounted for all three, plus the 2 sets of tiller bolts, nuts and washers.
1.
Place the rudder head between the bars of the tiller. Check to see that tiller is facing the same
direction as the rudder pintles and that the Tiller Extension is facing up. Secure the tiller with the
tiller bolts through the pre-drilled holes. (it is usually easier to start with the rear bolt)
2.
Finishing Up.
Tie the Bow Line (28 foot 3/16 yellow line) around the mast step.1.
Tie the Daggerboard to the eye strap on the forward face of the daggerboard trunk.2.
Before launching your new McLaughlin Optimist, check the launching area for anything that
might damage your boat. (rocks, shells or debris)
3.
Once the boat has been launched and is in sufficiently deep water, secure the rudder by placing
the rudder pintles into the stern gudgeons. The rudder will automatically lock into place with the
metal keeper tab. (To remove the rudder, press the keeper tab and lift it from the gudgeons) Next,
slide the daggerboard into the daggerboard trunk and tie the keeper line to the eye on the trunk. Be
sure the blunt end of your daggerboard is facing forward.
4.
If your life jacket is on and zipped up, you're ready to go sailing!5.
Safety Tips
Although sailing is a relatively safe sport, the sea ensures that there is always risk of accident. The
following is a brief list of precautions that will greatly reduce the risk of serious injury.

Always wear a US Coast Guard Approved PFD. Not only is it a class rule but, life jackets save
lives everyday. Make sure that yours fits properly and is rated for your weight. Too many
Optimist sailors hit the water with a PFD that is far to big for them. Only a properly fitted and
properly worn life jacket can save your life.
1.
It is an IODA (International Optimist Dinghy Association) class rule that the boom bridle never
extend more than 10 cm from the boom. This rule was created, and should be heeded, because it
greatly reduces the risk of a sailor's head being caught in the bridle during a maneuver. Keep your
bridle tight!
2.
The trigger snap provided with your boat is designed to prevent catching on clothing, don't
replace it with shackles that can. If your trigger snap wears out, contact your dealer or
McLaughlin Boat Works to purchase a replacement.
3.
Attend a sailing course taught by US Sailing certified instructors and never send a child sailing
without adult supervision.
4.
Always check the weather before going sailing. Checking weather conditions and knowing your
limitations is an import part of safe sailing.
5.
Wear appropriate clothing. Since you've already checked the weather (see #5), you know what to
expect in terms of temperature and precipitation. What is merely uncomfortable for some athletes
can be dangerous for sailors. Your mental ability is what you require most while sailing, and
that's what hypothermia takes first. Remember, there's no such thing as over prepared for a sailor,
and you can't just "run to the sidelines" for a sweater if you get cold.
6.
Wear sunscreen. While sailing, you'll get a double dose of sun, once from the sun, once from the
water reflection. There's nowhere to seek shade, so bring your own. (Hats, loose cotton clothing,
etc.)
7.
Stay hydrated. Sailing is primarily a summer sport, which means lots of sun and lots of heat.
Always bring water with you and drink even when you're not thirsty.
8.
Care and Upkeep
Storage:
A good set of covers and a dolly will pay for themselves in resale value the first year you own your boat.
Especially in the Optimist class, with all the travel and handling your hull will endure, protection needs to be your
first priority. Covers, a dolly, and especially a blade bag, are a must if you want to keep your boat looking and
performing at its best.
1.
Always rinse your boat and equipment with fresh water after sailing.2.
Don't store your foils in an exceptionally hot environment. (for example, a car's trunk in summer)3.
There are many options for day to day storage. Most commonly, the hull is stored upside down in its bottom
cover, or right-side-up on a dolly with a tented top cover. These items are available through your dealer.
4.
If possible, your Optimist should be stored indoors for the winter. If that is not possible, it should be stored upside
down, in it's cover, on padded racks. Do NOT shrink wrap your Optimist.
5.
It is best to store your Optimist upside down, resting on the deck. If you chose to store your boat upright, make
sure the bottom is evenly supported and never place anything in or on the boat.
6.
Transportation:
The Optimist is easily car topped or trailed. Trailers are available in all shapes and sizes, ranging from small 2 boat
trailers to huge 20 and 30 boat trailers. If you are only transporting 1 boat, we highly recommend car topping over
trailing.
1.
When transporting your Optimist on a trailer/car, always use padded bunks and secure the boat deck down. Never
travel with the hull resting on it's bottom.
2.
When transporting your Optimist, either use a top cover or remove the air bags from their straps. The constant
pressure of the wind will damage air bags if left unprotected in the boat.
3.
Utilize safety lines. Tie a line between the primary straps and cinch it tight, it's purpose is keep the straps from
sliding apart and off the boat. Tie from a secure point on boat (hiking straps, main sheet block, mast step) directly
4.

to the trailer or roof rack. This line will assure that, even if the straps are lost, the boat cannot be completely
lost.
Care and Cleaning:
When sailing in salt water, thoroughly rinse the entire boat with fresh water, including sails and spars.1.
Always allow sails to dry before stowing. Sailcloth, like most fabrics, will mildew if stored wet.2.
Store the daggerboard and rudder in a cool place, excessive heat can cause warping and blistering.3.
There are many high quality marine cleansing products on the market. Avoid any cleaner which includes
abrasives. For daily cleaning, we recommend non-toxic, biodegradable soaps such as Lemon Joy dish detergent.
4.
For more serious stains, we recommend Starbright Boat Cleaner. This is a more chemically active cleaner and
should only be used after soap and water has been tried.
5.
Very serious stains can be removed from gelcoat using lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner will dissolve stickers, so
be careful where you use it. Left on the surface it will eventually dissolve gelcoat as well so, be sure to
thoroughly rinse with water afterwards. The use of lacquer thinner should be supervised by an adult.
6.
Wet sanding is required only if the bottom is scratched. Your McLaughlin Optimist arrives with a race ready
finish. Cleansing the bottom with soap and water to remove dirt and oil is the best pre-race preparation.
7.
Basic Tuning
Mainsheet- Mainsheet controls boom position, it is a balance between pointing and speed. Upwind, the sail should be
trimmed to the leeward comer of the transom for most conditions, further in for heavy air, further out for light. It is
usually better to give up maximum pointing for increased speed.
Luff Telltales- In light wind, out of tacks or while footing for speed, steer so that the luff telltales are flying straight
back. In medium wind with flat water or light chop, steer so that the windward telltale is partially stalled, and the leeward
telltale is flying straight back. In heavy wind (when you can no longer hike the boat perfectly flat), steer so that the
windward and leeward telltales are somewhat stalled. A luff should only be carried when feathering in very heavy winds.
Before carrying a luff, you should consider raising your centerboard slightly to depower the boat.
Leach Telltales- Because of the limited control the vang offers on an Optimist, the leach telltale is mostly an indicator
of mainsheet trim. Generally, it should be steaming straight back with the curvature of the leach. If it is stalling to
windward, you are under trimmed. (The luff telltales will almost always be a better indicator of this) If the leach telltale is
stalled far to leeward, you are either carrying too much vang or are over trimmed, either way the leach is stalled.
Boom Preventer - The boom preventer controls the luff tension in conjunction with the vang and sprit. In medium
winds the luff should have "neutral" tension under pressure, no horizontal wrinkles or vertical wrinkles. In light winds, one
or two twists should be added to produce very slight scallops under pressure. In heavy winds, twists should be let off to
produce a vertical wrinkle in the luff, however, that wrinkle should disappear under pressure.
Vang - The vang controls the luff tension upwind and leech tension off the wind.
>5 knots :Use the Mainsheet to trim for your upwind boom position, then cleat the vang at that spot. If the wind is puffy,
trim for the median wind speed but, leave a small slack in the vang. This will give you added leach control upwind
8 to 12 knots : Trim until the boom is centerline and 5 to 8 inches off the transom, then cleat the vang. In puffy
conditions, trim for the median wind speed or slightly less.
15+ knots : Trim until the boom is 0-3 inches from the transom, then cleat the vang. If the leach is stalling, ease the vang
slightly or loosen the clue tie.
Outhaul- In medium air, the outhaul should be trimmed with pronounced scallops along the foot. The clue should be 3-6
cm from the end of the boom. In heavy air the outhaul should be tightened so that the scallops are removed. However, it
should never be so tight that a hard crease in the foot is induced. In light air it should be eased to a maximum of about 7 or

8 cm from the end of boom.
Sprit- When rigging, slight wrinkles should appear from the sail's peak to the tack. In light wind these wrinkles should
be very small, in heavy wind the sprit should be tightened so that the wrinkles become pronounced. In any wind speed, the
sail should be perfectly smooth at the median or predominant wind speed on any leg of the course. As a result, slight
wrinkles will sometimes appear from the top of the mast to the clue in puffs and from the peak to the tack in lulls. In
medium and strong winds, especially with light sailors, err to the side of wrinkles from the top of the mast to the clue, as
this will open the leach, rather than stall it. Generally, it is better to lose pointing and gain speed by opening the leach
rather than losing both pointing and speed by stalling the leach.
Mast Rake- Mast Rake is a highly personal measurement which effects power and pointing. The following table should
be used as a starting point for your rake. From that starting point you should adjust the rake to suit your personal sailing
style (are you a "footer" or a "pointer"?), the wind conditions you will be sailing in, the sea conditions and your spars (are
they stiff or bendy?). Generally, your rake should be adjusted so that the boom is parallel with the water when sheeted for
optimum upwind sailing.
Weight (lbs.) Mast Rake (in)
Under 70 109-110
70-80 110-111
80-90 111-112
90-100 112-112.5
100-110 112.5-113
110-120 113-113.5
Over 120 114-114.5