Model Airways CURTISS JN-4D JENNY User manual

Model Airways Kit No. MA1010
Manufactured by Model Airways
ADivision of Model Expo, Inc., Hollywood, FL
http://www.modelexpo-online.com
PREPARED BY BEN LANKFORD
Technical Characteristics
SCALE: 3/4" = 1' 0" (1:16)
WINGSPAN: 32-1/2" (826 mm)
FUSELAGE LENGTH: 20-1/2" (521 mm)
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
MODELING THE
C URTISS JN-4D J ENNY
✦
1917
✦
MODELING THE
C URTISS JN-4D J ENNY
✦
1917
✦

The Jenny biplane was introduced in 1916 and manufactured by
the Curtiss Aeroplane and Motor Corporation in Hammondsport,
New York. The
Jenny name was coined from the JN series. Not
a combat aircraft in World War I, but it became an important
trainer for pilots of the United States Air Service. The aircraft
became more famous after the war, being used as a barnstormer
and mail carrier. More than 6000 aircraft were built. The most
produced and most popular model was the JN-4D. More than
3000 were built. Some 1200 were produced in Canada and known
as Canuck JN-4CAN. About 1000 aircraft, mostly JN-4D’s, were
built by other US firms such as Springfield Aircraft Corporation,
St. Louis Aircraft Corporation, and Liberty Iron Works.
The
Jenny has a wingspan of 43 feet 7 inches and weighs 1430
pounds. She flies at a speed of 75 mph, has an endurance of 2.5
hours, climbs to 2000 feet in ten minutes, and the service ceiling
is 11,000 feet. The aircraft is manned by a crew of two and is
powered by a Curtiss OX-5 in-line V8, water-cooled engine.
Thousands of these 90 HP engines, first manufactured in 1910,
were used in the
Jenny and other aircraft.
Besides the JN-4D model, there were other minor variations in
the models JN-1, 2, 3, 4, and models JN-4A, 4B, 4C, JN-4D2, and
JN-6H. Some had engines mounted with no engine-prop down
thrust, some had wings with less stagger (10" to 12" as opposed
to 16" on JN-4D). Other variations included a different stabilizer
shape, more dihedral in the wings (up to 4 degrees), and a longer
lower wing length. All in all, however, all models looked pretty
much the same.
The prototype JN-4D had ailerons on both wings, but the pro-
duction models eliminated the lower wing ailerons. Earlier
aircraft used a wheel for controlling the rudder, but the D model
used sticks. Quite a few
Jenny’s have been restored and are still
flying today. Restored aircraft can be found in museums around
the country, including the Smithsonian Institution’s Garber
Preservation Facility) in Suitland, Maryland outside Washington,
DC; College Park Aviation Museum in College Park, Maryland;
Curtiss Museum in Hammondsport, New York; and the History
and Traditions Museum at Lackland Air Force Base in San
Antonio, Texas, to name a few.
To see a
Jenny in action, an outstanding video is It’s Gotta Be
a Jenny . This is a 1989 film by the EAA (Experimental Aircraft
Association) Aviation Foundation’s Paul Harvey Audio-Video
Center, in Oshkosh, Wisconsin. It has a good history and vintage
footage of the
Jenny as a military trainer and a barnstormer.
The video highlights Ken Hyde’s restoration of a
Jenny with
scenes of its initial flights. The video has some wonderful color
photography of several restored
Jenny ’s close up and in flight.
These scenes are from a 1989 reunion of these historic aircraft
held in Oshkosh. Lots of different color schemes and markings.
Several photos of a
Jenny restored by Ken Hyde are shown
throughout these instructions. Refer to the credits below for
more information about Ken Hyde himself.
For more flight scenes and close-ups, look for the 1975 movie of
The Great Waldo Pepper with Robert Redford. There is also an
outstanding video available entitled
World War I: America Takes
To The Air, Volume III
. This video has early film shots of pilots
training in
Jenny’s . The film was shot at various locations,
including Minneola Field, NY, and Kelly Field in Texas. The
video was copyrighted in 1993 by Aerofilm.
HISTORY
Ken Hyde’s restored Jenny at the Maryland Museum
2

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Technical Characteristics ............................................Cover
History ........................................................................................2
Introduction and Credits ......................................................4
Before You Begin ....................................................................5
Necessary Construction Tools ............................................5
Working with the Plans and Parts .......................................5
1. The Plans ...............................................................................5
2. Parts.......................................................................................5
3. Kit Lumber .............................................................................6
4. Britannia Metal Parts..............................................................6
5. Photo-Etched Parts................................................................6
6. Rigging Cord ........................................................................6
7. Setting Up the Plans ..............................................................6
8. Part Identification and Readiness .........................................6
9. Bending Wood Strips .............................................................6
Painting and Staining the Model .......................................6
Stage 1: Building the Wings ................................................7
1. Preparing the Wing Ribs ........................................................7
2. Setting Up the Wing Spars ....................................................7
3. Installing the Wing Ribs..........................................................8
4. Installing the Beam Webs and Web Blocks...........................8
5. Installing the Wing Tips, Trailing Edge,
and Upper Beam Flanges....................................................9
6. Installing the Small Wing Stringers .........................................9
7. Adding Miscellaneous Stiffeners
and Lower Wing Walk..........................................................10
8. Installing the Leading Edge Cover Sheet ...........................10
9. Installing the Cap Strips.......................................................10
10. Installing Wing Strut, Kingpost, and Wing Skid
Support Pads and Fittings ...................................................11
11. Building and Installing the Upper Wing Ailerons..................11
12. Installing the Aileron Control Sheaves.................................11
13. Installing the Drag Wires......................................................12
14. Installing the Fake Hinge Rods
in the Upper and Lower Wings............................................12
15. Building and Installing the Lower Wing Skids .......................12
16. Building , Installing, and Rigging the Kingposts...................12
17. Building the Upper Wing Center Section ............................13
18. Rounding the Leading Edge and Wing Tips.......................13
19. Building the Wing Struts .......................................................13
Stage 2: Building Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizers,
Rudder, and Elevator
..........................................14
1. Building the Vertical Stabilizer..............................................14
2. Building the Rudder ............................................................14
3. Building the Horizontal Stabilizer..........................................15
4. Building & Installing the Elevator .........................................15
5. Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer...........................................16
Stage 3: Building the Basic Fuselage .............................16
1. Building the Fuselage Jig....................................................16
2. Building the Sides of the Fuselage......................................17
3. Placing the Sides in the Building Jig....................................17
4. Building and Installing the Horizontal Struts .........................17
5. Longeron Splices ................................................................18
6. Building & Installing the Tailpost ..........................................18
7. Installing the Front and Side Nose
Plates and Engine Bearers ..................................................18
Stage 3: Building the Basic Fuselage (continued)
8. Installing the Cockpit Floor Board Supports
and Floor Boards ................................................................19
9. Installing the Longitudinal Side Seat Rails............................19
10. Installing Forward and Rear Cockpit Instrument
Panels, and Shelf Behind Rear Cockpit ..............................19
11. Installing the Fuselage Strut Clips........................................20
12. Installing Cross Brace Wires.................................................21
13. Building and Installing the Turtleback..................................21
14. Installing the Step Plate.......................................................21
Stage 4: Installing Cockpit Controls and Seats,
and Additional Rigging
.....................................22
1. Installing the Joysticks and Other Flight
Control Fittings ....................................................................22
2. Building and Installing the Seat Supports,
Seats, and Rail Cross Strut ...................................................23
3. Rigging More Fuselage Cross Brace Wires .........................23
Stage 5: Building and Installing the OX-5 Engine,
Radiator, Fuel Tank,and Prop, and Final
Rigging of Cross Brace Wires
...........................24
1. Assembly and Installation of the Fuel Tank .........................24
2. Building the OX-5 Engine ....................................................25
3. Installing the Engine and Radiator......................................28
4. Installing Engine Piping, Tubing,
and Control Linkages..........................................................29
5. Rigging Final Fuselage Cross Brace Wires ..........................30
6. Building and Installing the Prop...........................................30
Stage 6: Building and Installing the Landing Gear
and Tail Skid
.........................................................30
1. Installing the Tail Skid and Supports.....................................30
2. Building and Installing the Landing Gear............................31
Stage 7: Installing the Cockpit Cowl, Wings,
Stabilizers, Rudder, and Elevator,
and Completing the Rigging
..........................33
1. Installing the Cockpit Cowl, Windshields,
and Cockpit Edging ...........................................................33
2. Installing the Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizers,
Rudder, and Elevator..........................................................33
3. Rigging the Rudder and Elevator Control Wires .................34
4. Installing and Rigging the Upper Wing
Center Section and Struts ..................................................34
5. Installing the Lower Wings ...................................................35
6. Installing the Interplane Wing Struts
and Upper Wings ................................................................35
7. Rigging the Interplane Strut Cross Brace Wires,
Flying Wires, Landing Wires, Drag Wires, and
Kingpost Wires.....................................................................36
8. Rigging the Aileron Control Wires........................................37
Finishing Touches .................................................................37
Bibliography ..........................................................................38
Photos of Model Airways’ Jenny ......................................39
©2002 Model Airways, Inc.
A Division of Model Expo, Inc., Hollywood, FL
3

INTRODUCTION
Model Airways developed its Jenny kit between 1999 and 2001.
The design is based on factory drawings of
Jenny aircraft,
along with historical photographs, and photographs of
restored
Jenny’s in museums and private owned aircraft that
are still flying today. Because of varying dates on many of the
references, and knowing that changes were made over a peri-
od of time, the design depicted by Model Airways may not
represent any one particular aircraft. Most modifications
found in the various references were minor detail changes,
so the overall design is representative of a typical
Jenny .
Many thanks to the subscribers of the
World War I Model
E-mail List
for their assistance with various details of
the aircraft. The Internet home page address for the list is
http://www.pease1.sr.unh.edu/1/index.html, and the site is
maintained by Allan Wright. You will find some great informa-
tion and a gallery of some fine WWI models on these pages.
The home page provides instructions for joining the mailing
list if you are interested.
Thanks also to Ken Hyde from Warrenton, VA, an expert builder
and restorer of full-size antique aircraft, including the
Jenny .
Ken answered many questions that had me puzzled while devel-
oping the kit design. Ken, who is 61 years of age at this writing,
is a former American Airlines captain and Boeing 727 pilot.
Ken’s interest in antique planes obviously came from his father,
John “Captain Johnny” Hyde, a barnstormer in the early 1900s.
Ken’s latest project is a replica of the Wright 1903 Flyer, which
he intends to fly at Kitty Hawk at 10:35 a.m., December 17,
2003, as the Wright brothers did 100 years earlier.
PLANS AND INSTRUCTIONS BY BEN LANKFORD, VIENNA, VA
PROTOTYPE MODEL BY BOB WERNER, HOLLYWOOD, FL
MODELING THE
C URTISS JN-4D J ENNY
✦
1917
✦
MODELING THE
C URTISS JN-4D J ENNY
✦
1917
✦
Clockwise from upper left: Interplane Wing Strut Fitting, Carburetor, and Tail Surface
and Rigging, as they appear on restored examples of the Jenny airplane
4

Full Size Model Scale Model Scale
Inches Inches Millimeters
1/4" 1/64" 0.40mm
1/2" 1/32" 0.79mm
3/4" 3/64" 1.19mm
1" 1/16" 1.59mm
1-1/4" 5/64" 1.98mm
1-1/2" 3/32" 2.38mm
1-3/4" 7/64" 2.78mm
2" 1/8" 3.17mm
2-1/4" 9/64" 3.57mm
2-1/2" 5/32" 3.97mm
2-3/4" 11/64" 4.37mm
3" 3/16" 4.76mm
6" 3/8" 9.53mm
9" 9/16" 14.29mm
12" 3/4" 19.05mm
SCALE CONVERSION TABLE
Before You Begin
The Curtiss JN-4D Jenny is an interesting
aircraft and makes a splendid model. The
kit is intended as a structural model with-
out any fabric covering. Most every detail of
the real aircraft has been included as model
scale permits. While your model structure
will be glued together, the original real air-
craft had little glue if any. Most of the wood-
en structure was joined with many small
wood screws and metal clips. However,
some of the restored
Jenny’s now use glue
in addition to the screws, since better glue
is now available.
Britannia, photo-etched metal, and wooden
fittings eliminate creating many parts from
scratch. However, some require final finish-
ing before they are suitable for the model.
This is especially true for the britannia cast-
ings and will be discussed later.
Always complete one construction stage
before moving to the next. When things
go awry, consider doing them over.
Necessary Construction Tools
The following tools and supplies are recom-
mended for the construction process.
Modelers who have built before may have
their own favorites.
A. Knives and Saws
1. Hobby knife with No. 11 blades
2. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw
B. Files
Set of needle files
C. Clamps and Pins
1. Alligator clips (some with and some
without teeth)
2. Wooden clothespins (craft shops have
small versions of the design)
3. Rubber bands
4. Package of straight pins or florist pins
with plastic heads
D. Boring Tools
1. Set of miniature drills
2. Pin vise
E. Miscellaneous
1. T
ack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small fine-pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. small round
b. flat nose
5. Wire cutters (for cutting steel and
brass or copper wire, rod, and strip
metal)
F. Sandpaper
Fine and medium grit garnet or aluminum
oxide sandpaper (#100 to #220), and
#400 wet-or-dry paper for fittings and
final wood sanding
G. Glue
White glue, Carpenter’s wood glue (yel-
low in color), and Cyanoacrylate glue
(super glue) can be used for most of the
model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra
strength for gluing fittings. The best super
glue for most applications is a medium
viscosity gap-filling type. The watery thin
type is recommended to fill a narrow
crack by capillary action.
H. Power Tools
While not really necessary, one power
tool would be advantageous for this kit.
The kit contains several sizes of steel
music wire that is extremely hard. A
Dremel or other rotary tool fitted with a
small fiberglass-reinforced cut-off wheel
is ideal for cutting off and flattening the
ends of steel music wire.
I. Building Board
A soft but stiff board, such as acoustic
ceiling tile or insulation wallboard, to easily
take straight pins for holding parts during
assembly. This soft board should be
nailed or glued to a hard board so it will be
flat. You can use a table, but a portable
board is good for turning it around to make
the work easier.
Working with the Plans & Parts
Before starting the model, carefully exam-
ine the kit and study the plans. First, deter-
mine if all the listed parts are present.
Handling them will produce a better under-
standing of the kit’s requirements. Try to
visualize how every piece will look on the
completed model. Also, determine the
building sequence – what must be done
first – ahead of time. The instructions will
help, but a thorough knowledge of the plans
at the outset is essential. Be especially
aware of when to rig the many brace wires
in the fuselage. There are a lot of parts that
must be added inside the fuselage. The
brace wires would get in the way if rigged
too soon.
To avoid losing small fittings and hardware,
sort them into labeled boxes or compartments.
These should have lids to keep out dirt.
1. The Plans
Six plan sheets are provided:
1. Laser-Cut Wood Patterns and
Fitting Sketches
2. Upper and Lower Wing Assembly
and Details
3. Basic Fuselage Assembly and Details
4. Tail Surfaces and Landing Gear
Assembly and Details
5. OX-5 Engine and Cockpit Controls
Assembly and Details
6. Component Assembly and Rigging
Details
Model Airways’ Jenny kit is manufactured
to a scale of 3/4" = 1' 0" (1:16). Each sheet is
drawn to that scale except areas enlarged to
show detail. Most of the enlarged details are
double scale, and designated 2X (1-1/2" =
1'0"). Most dimensions can be lifted directly
off the plans by using draftsman dividers or
a “tick” strip (piece of paper such as an
adding machine roll). Lay the paper strip
over the plan, carefully mark the item’s
length with a sharp pencil, then transfer the
marks to the wood.
Because these are model building plans,
actual measurements were converted to
model inches. For comparison, 1/16" on the
model is equal to 1" on the real aircraft, 1/8"
is 2", and so on. The table below compares
full-size dimensions with scale model inches
and millimeters:
2. Parts
Laser-cut wood parts, photo-etched parts, and
britannia castings are designated by a letter-
number (such as
W1 , F4 , R2 ) on plans and
sketches. A part noted such as L2R or L2L
would indicate a right or left hand part. You
may also see some similar parts labeled, for
example, R3A and R3B . Parts are classified
generally in the following letter categories:
C – CONTROLS: AILERONS, RUDDER,
ELEVATOR
E – ENGINE, ENGINE PIPING, ENGINE
CONTROLS, RADIATOR, FUEL
TANK, PROPELLER
F – FUSELAGE
L – LANDING GEAR, TAIL SKID
R – RIGGING FITTINGS COMMON TO
VARIOUS LOCATIONS
S – STABILIZERS, RUDDER, ELEVATOR
W –WINGS
Wood strips and sheets, rod, wire, tubing,
rigging cord, and similar parts which must
be cut from longer pieces have no letter des-
ignation. Rather, only the dimension of these
items is shown on the plans.
A parts list is included in each of the con-
struction stages, noting the parts required
for that particular stage. A
Master Packaging
Parts List
(separate from these instructions)
is provided that lists the quantities included
in the kit. For wood strips, sheets, rod, wire,
tubing, and rigging, one or several pieces are
provided in the kit as noted on the master
packaging parts list. Each of these have been
assigned a Model Expo (Model Airways) WP
stock part number. These parts must be cut
to length or shape according to the dimen-
sions shown on the plan.
5

3. Kit Lumber
Strips and sheets of solid basswood or birch
plywood are supplied in the kit. Sort the
wood in the kit by thickness to save time.
After selecting and cutting what you need,
return the remaining stock to the proper
thickness and wood-type pile. Don’t worry
about using a piece for one item intended for
another. Model Airways supplies enough
extra wood to complete the model before
running out.
4. Britannia Metal Parts
These parts will require final finishing before
mounting on the model. First, remove mold
joint flash with a #11 hobby blade, then file
or sand with fine sandpaper. Clean out any
holes using a drill bit or reamer. Some of the
smaller holes may not be completely formed.
Also, if another part must fit in the hole,
ream the hole if necessary for the parts to fit.
Wash fittings in dishwashing liquid and
warm water to remove traces of mold release
agent and the body oils your fingers deposit.
Allow to dry thoroughly.
5. Photo-Etched Parts
Cut the sprues off the parts with a sharp
hobby blade on a hardwood backing, or use a
sprue cutter. File any remaining sprue to
smooth out the part. Some photo-etched
parts must be bent to conform to the shape
shown on the plans, and lengths or configu-
ration may be modified for the same part to
fit different locations. Bend parts using flat
nose or needle nose pliers. Don’t try bending
with your fingers.
6. Rigging Cord
On the real aircraft, the flying and landing
wire rigging and cross brace wires are 1/8"-
or 5/32"-diameter stranded steel wire. For
the kit, however, gray nylon cord is provid-
ed to make it easier to rig. All of the cord
should be beeswaxed to protect it and cut
down fuzz.
7. Setting Up the Plans
Build the wings, vertical and horizontal sta-
bilizers, elevator, and fuselage sides directly
on the plan. Place the plan on your building
board and cover the plan with waxed paper
or plastic wrap. Be careful applying glue,
especially super glue. Although the waxed
paper or plastic wrap protects the plan some-
what, you could accidentally glue the protec-
tive sheet to the model parts, or even to the
plan itself. Plastic wrap is really a bear to
remove if it is accidentally glued to the
model with super glue. Use small applicators
such as a commercial Microbrush or tooth-
pick for applying the glue. You don’t need a
lot of glue for the aircraft’s fragile parts.
8. Part Identification and Readiness
All the laser-cut wood, britannia castings,
and photo-etched copper and aluminum
parts can be identified by the patterns and
sketches shown on Plan Sheet 1.
Before starting each stage, have all the parts
required for the stage, such as laser-cut
parts, britannia castings, photo-etched parts,
stripwood, rod, and rigging, identified and
ready to use. Sand wood parts as required
to get rid of any fuzziness and prepare the
castings and photo-etched parts as noted
in Paragraph 4 and 5 above.
9. Bending Wood Strips
During the process of building the model,
you will be advised to heat-bend some wood,
such as fuselage longerons, wing tips, and
wing skids, to conform to a specific curve. A
good way to do this is to use an aluminum
tip with a flat end filed to a 45-degree angle.
Fit the tip in a 20- to 30-watt soldering iron.
First, soak the wood in cold water for 5 or 10
minutes. Remove the wood and let it sit and
dry out a bit for another 5 minutes. It won’t
completely dry out. Then take the soldering
iron an press on the wood, moving along
bending the wood to shape as you go. If
necessary, press over a form shaped to the
curve. The heat applied will easily bend the
wood, and the formed shape will remain after
the wood is dry.
Painting & Staining the Model
The Jenny model need not be painted or fin-
ished at all. However, it is recommended that
you stain the wood parts and seal the britan-
nia castings for protection. A light tan stain
on all wooden parts will help to make the
entire structure uniform in color.
Some parts could be painted, such as the
radiator and the fuselage cockpit cowl. This
would add a nice contrast to the otherwise
unpainted model. Since many color schemes
were used on various models, you will need
to do a little research on your own for proper
colors. You could also paint fittings such as
wing strut fittings and fuselage clips copper
color or black for contrast. If black is your
choice, consider using Blacken-It, a chemical
rather than paint. Steel rod represents steel
tubing on the real aircraft. These can be left
as is or painted a light gray color. Cast cock-
pit fittings can also be painted gray or just
varnished.
Sanding and cleaning: Sand all wood sur-
faces with 220-grit dry sandpaper, followed
by 400-grit, and wipe off all dust thoroughly.
A tack rag would be helpful.
Brushing and stains: A soft artist quality
brush can be used to apply stain to the parts.
Model Shipways or Minwax brand stains are
excellent for staining. For the castings, a
clear flat finish is suggested. This finish
could also be applied over the stained wood
parts as added protection.
Painting: If parts are to be painted, use
a primer first, then paint. Any of the model
paints are satisfactory. For this model,
flat paints will probably look better than
gloss paints.
View of
wing
struts
on
Ken
Hyde’s
restored
Jenny
6

STAGE 1: BUILDING THE WINGS
Plan Sheet 2 shows all the details for con-
structing the wings, wing struts, and rigging
drag wires within the wings. In addition,
refer to Sheet 6 and Stage 7 for rigging the
kingposts on top of the upper wing that can
be done during this stage if desired. The
following parts are required for this stage:
Laser-Cut Wood Parts
Upper wing ribs – 2 of W1
Upper and lower wing ribs – 4 of W2
Upper and lower wing ribs – 22 of W3
Upper and lower wing ribs – 12 of W4
Upper wing ribs – 10 of W5
Upper wing ribs – 6 of W6
Upper and lower wing ribs – 4 of W7
Lower wing ribs – 2 of W8
Lower wing ribs – 2 of W9
Upper wing ribs – 2 of W10
Lower wing ribs – 2 of W11
Upper wing ribs – 2 of W12
Aileron ribs – 4 of W13
Aileron ribs – 16 of W14
Center section ribs – 1 of W15
Center section ribs – 2 of W16
Center section wing struts – 4 of W17
Interplane wing struts – 8 of W18
Kingposts on upper wing – 4 of W19
Lower wing handhold blocks – 2 of W23
Wing building jig shims – 20 of W24
Britannia Castings
Aileron control horns – 4 of C1
Aileron control cable sheaves – 4 of C3
Aileron control cable sheave bodies –
4 of C4
Wing strut end fittings – 20 of W20
Wing skid end fittings – 4 of W21
Photo-Etched Copper Parts
Single eye rig fittings for drag wires
and kingpost wires – 128 of R1
Double eye rig fittings for aileron
control horn brace wires – 6 of R2
Drag wire and kingpost wire turnbuckles –
54 of R3A(short)
Wing wire rigging plates at struts –
20 of W22
Wood Strips (cut to length as required)
Rib vertical web stiffeners and cap strips –
0.020" x 1/16"
Wing strut and kingpost support pads –
0.020" x 1/8"
Stringers and miscellaneous wing stiffen-
ers – 1/32" x 1/32" and 3/64" x 3/64"
Front beam flanges, and shims for wing
building jig setup – 1/32" x 3/32"
Rear beam flanges – 1/32" x 1/8"
Front beam webs, and web blocks at
compression ribs – 1/32" x 5/32"
Support stringers for lower wing walk and
wing tip stiffener – 3/64" x 3/64"
Rear beam webs, and web blocks at
compression ribs – 3/64" x 1/8"
Wing tips – 1/16" x 3/32"
Aileron leading edges – 1/16" x 5/32"
Upper wing rear web in way of ailerons –
5/64" x 1/8"
Wing skids – 3/32" x 3/32" flexible
beech wood
Front beam web between first two ribs
inboard and center section – 3/32" x
5/32"
Leading edge – 3/32" x 3/16"
Rear beam webs between first two ribs
inboard and center section – 1/8" x 1/8"
Blocks (to be carved) at leading edge
wing tips and handholds – 3/16" x 5/16"
Wood Sheet (cut to length as required)
Leading edge cover sheet and lower
wing walk – 1/64" plywood
Steel Rod (cut to length as required)
Wing trailing edge and struts between
kingposts – 1/32"-diameter
Fake wing hinges at center wing section
and fuselage – 1/16"-diameter
Brass Rod (cut to length as required)
Pins for kingposts – 1/32"-diameter
Brass Strip (cut to length as required)
Aileron fake hinges – 1/64" x 1/16"
Self-Adhesive Copper Tape
(cut to shape as required)
Bands securing trailing edge to ribs
and stiffeners
Rigging Cord (cut to length as required)
Drag wires in wings and kingpost wires –
0.010"-diameter gray nylon cord
Wrapping cord for splices – 0.008"
diameter black nylon cord
1. Preparing the Wing Ribs
All wing ribs are laser-cut. For your informa-
tion, the airfoil is an Eiffel 36. There are sev-
eral different types of ribs, such as solid
compression ribs, where the drag wire fit-
tings are located, basic ribs with lightening
holes, shorter ribs in the upper wing center
section in way of the upper wing ailerons,
and the aileron ribs. The outboard rib near
the wing tip is a solid rib, more narrow than
the others since the wing tapers at the tip.
The inner most rib on each wing panel is
thicker than the others.
Rib stiffeners: As the first order of business,
glue the vertical rib stiffeners on each side
of ribs where lightening holes are located, as
shown on the plan. These stiffeners prevent
rib cracking on the real aircraft. The thick-
ness of the rib plus the vertical rib stiffeners
on each side should equal the width of the
cap strips that are 1/16" wide. However, the
vertical stiffener wood supplied is 0.020"
thick (1/64" not available). Before gluing the
vertical stiffeners, block sand the strips down
to 1/64" thick if necessary. Test fit a cap strip
to make sure it is flush with the stiffeners.
Hard to do after the wing is assembled. Cut
the stiffeners flush with the top and bottom
of the ribs, except cut the one at the center
flush with the underside of the stringer
notches
(Figure 1-1) .
2. Setting Up the Wing Spars
In addition to the ribs, the wings basic con-
struction consists of a heavy main front and
rear beam, two small stringers (upper and
lower) in between the main beams, a trailing
edge, and a leading edge. On the real aircraft
the main beams are a solid “eye” beam contin-
uous through the ribs. However, for the
model these beams are composed of an upper
and lower continuous wooden flange with a
separate web fitted in between each wing rib.
The leading edge is a solid continuous wood-
en spar, with the addition of a strengthening
cover sheet back to the center of the front
beam on the top side of each wing panel.
Small stringers fit into the notches at the top
and bottom of the ribs. These stringers are to
prevent rib twist on the real aircraft.
The trailing edge is a steel rod on the model
(tubing on the real aircraft). The rod splices
into a wooden wing tip on the lower wings.
For the upper wings, the rod is continuous
around the ailerons and is wood on the main
part of the wing.
Both the upper wing and lower wing panels
are similar in construction, so the instruc-
tions to follow are applicable to both except
for specific details which will be noted.
Setting up the spars: Lay out the basic wings
without the upper wing ailerons. Build these
separately ( see Paragraph 11) .
FIG. 1-1 RIB STIFFENERS
TYPICAL STIFFENER
.020" X 1/16"
7

Since the wing ribs have undercamber, jig
shims are required to correctly locate the
beam flanges at their proper angles. The
shims are laser-cut parts.
The leading edge is a rectangular spar and is
deeper than necessary so it can sit directly on
the plan without any shim strips. Pin the
leading edge to the plan first. Later, when the
wings are removed from the building board,
the leading edge will be rounded to its cor-
rect shape.
Next, lay a 1/32"-thick shim just behind the
leading edge in way of each rib. This will
hold the ribs off the work surface to allow for
the thickness of the cap strips. Also, lay a
1/32"-thick shim under the trailing edge.
Both of the 1/32" shims can be short pieces
in way of each rib or a long strip.
Laser-cut jig shims, W24, are used to hold
the beam flanges at the correct height and
angle. It is suggested that these shims be laid
just to one side of each wing rib rather than
under it, so you can still see the rib locations
on the plan. Pin the shims to the plan. Note
that there are only enough of the laser-cut
parts to build one wing panel at a time. If you
want to build more, you must make your
own additional shims.
Lay down the lower beam flanges and pin
them on top of the jig shims.
Figure 1-2
illustrates the setup. Out near the wing tips,
both of the beam flanges must be tapered as
shown on the plans. Also, the flanges are
angled toward the wing tips outboard of the
last full-size rib. Consequently, you can take
the flanges during this step only out to the
full-size rib and then add the remaining
portion of the flanges when you do the wing
tips (to be discussed later).
Option: The small lower stringer at the mid-
dle of the wing ribs could also be installed
along with the beam flanges. Refer to Para-
graph 6 for a discussion on the stringers.
Note: When pinning the flanges (and the
stringer if the option is chosen) to the shims,
use one of the full-length lightened ribs to
check the fit as you go. The front end of the
rib will butt against the leading edge, and the
bottom slots in the rib must fit the lower
beam flanges (and stringer).
3. Installing the Wing Ribs
Position and glue each wing rib to the leading
edge, and to the front and rear beam lower
flanges (and the center stringer if this option
is used). Use pins if necessary to hold the ribs
vertically at each location
(Figure 1-3) .
The short ribs at the trailing edge, W7, can
be installed now, or wait until the trailing
edge is in place.
4. Installing the Beam Webs
and Web Blocks
With the ribs in place add the webs at the
front and rear beams. The top of the webs
must be shaped so they are flush with the
bottom of the slots for the upper flanges.
Glue the webs to the lower flanges and to
each rib.
Figure 1-4 illustrates the basic
FIG. 1-2 WING RIB JIG SETUP
1/32" X 1/32" STRINGER
(OPTION – INSTALL NOW)
JIG W24
1/32" SHIM
TYPICAL WING RIB
3/32" X 3/16"
LEADING
EDGE
LOWER BEAM FLANGES
1/32" X 3/32" FRONT
1/32" X 1/8" REAR
1/32" SHIM
FIG. 1-3 INSTALLING THE WING RIBS
THIS SHOWS OPTION WITH
W24 OFFSET FROM RIBS
PINS
FIG. 1-4 INSTALLING BEAM WEBS
REAR WEB SHOWN
(FRONT SIMILAR)
BEAM WEB –
1/32" FRONT WEB
3/64" REAR BEAM
5/64" IN WAY OF
AILERONS
webs between ribs. Variances are as follows:
A. The webs between the inboard two ribs
are the same thickness as the flanges.
This thick web supports the fake hinge
pins that connect the lower wings to the
fuselage and upper wings to the center
section. For the model, drill a hole in the
ends of each web for inserting a fake
hinge made of steel rod. The inboard ribs
already have a laser-cut guide hole (more
on this later).
B. The rear web outboard where the ailerons
are located is a continuous piece and is set
flush with the aft side of the flange. Like
the flanges, the beam webs outboard of
the last full depth rib are not installed at
this time. They will be done with the wing
tip construction per Paragraph 5.
8

Option: The web blocks to be described in
the next paragraph can be glued to the beam
webs before the beam webs are glued
between the ribs.
Installing web blocks: At each compression
rib, add the web blocks on each side of the
ribs. Fit these blocks on the forward side of
the rear beam and aft side of the front beam.
These blocks hold the drag wire single eye rig
fittings (R1). The fittings should be installed
in the blocks before installing the block; easier
now than later.
Figure 1-5 illustrates.
At the compression ribs where the wing
struts are located, add additional blocks on
the other side of the beam webs. The blocks,
now on all four corners of the rib juncture
provide support for the pads in way of the
wing struts
(Figure 1-6).
5. Installing the Wing Tips,
Trailing Edge, and Upper Beam
Flanges
The wing tips are made of wood. The rear
beam flange tapers aft, and its web tapers top
and bottom to the tip. The front beam flange
tapers forward, and its web tapers top and
bottom. See Detail 2-F and 2-G on the plan for
the correct tapers. There is a filler block at the
leading edge. It tapers like the front beam.
Outboard of the last full-size rib there is a nar-
row wing rib. Taper and fit the wing tips. On
the lower wing, the tip curves into the trailing
edge. Heat bend this curve. Note that the wing
tip follows the curvature of the undercam-
bered wing ribs, so it is not a straight piece.
Figure 1-7 illustrates the wing tip construc-
tion, with the exception that the upper beam
flanges and stringer have not yet been added.
The trailing edge is a steel rod. It is tied into
the wooden wing tips of the lower wings.
Bend the trailing edge to shape. Splice the
steel trailing edge into the wooden lower
wing tip and wrap with thread. For the upper
wing, the ailerons have the rod. Position and
glue the trailing edge to the ends of the ribs
with just a touch of super glue (Figure 1-8) .
After the wings are removed from the build-
ing board, and the cap strips have been
added, the copper self stick bands will be
added at each rib over the trailing edge rod.
The lower wings have a handhold block
(W23). Install the laser-cut blocks and sand
to the taper of the wing tips and round the
hole edges. See Figure 1-9 and Detail 2-H
on the plan.
Installing the upper flanges: After all webs
and web blocks and the wing tips are in
place, add the beam upper flanges. Flanges
are tapered at the wing tips. See Detail 2-F
and 2-G on the plan.
6. Installing the Small Wing Stringers
The stringers on the real aircraft are very
small dowels (about 5/16" full-size). However,
1/32" square strips are provided in the kit, as
a dowel this small is not available commer-
cially. You can sand the edges of the square
to form a dowel or use a draw plate. Or, leave
the square strips as is for more strength (rec-
FIG. 1-5 WEB BLOCKS AT COMPRESSION RIBS
BEAM LOWER
FLANGE
BEAM WEB
WEB BLOCK –
1/32" THICK AT FRONT BEAM
3/64" THICK AT REAR BEAM
SINGLE DRAG
WIRE FITTING
R1 THIS SIDE
RIGHT WING, REAR BEAM
BLOCKS SHOWN. FRONT
BEAM SIMILAR EXCEPT
SINGLE AND DOUBLE R1
FITTINGS REVERSE SIDES.
(SEE PLAN OF WINGS)
WING RIB W4 OR W6
FIG. 1-6 WEB BLOCKS AT WING STRUTS
PLAN
ADD WEB BLOCKS ON OPPOSITE
SIDE OF WEBS IN WAY OF WING
STRUT LOCATIONS
WEB BLOCKS
PER FIG. 1-5
DRILL HOLES FOR R1
DRAG WIRE
FITTINGS R1
9
HANDHOLD
BLOCK HERE
(SEE FIG. 1-9)
FILLER BLOCK
DOWNWARD
CURVE SIMILAR
TO CAMBER OF
WING RIB W11
1/16" X 3/32" WING TIP
TAPERED AND SHAPED
BLOCK
TRAILING EDGE ROD (SEE FIG. 1-8)
TYPICAL 3/64" X 3/64" STIFFENER.
ATWING TIP, USE COPPER
STICK TAPE AS SHOWN
FIG. 1-7 WING TIP CONSTRUCTION
STRINGERS
W4
W11
TAPE
WEB
TAPERED
FLANGE
(SEE PLAN
DETAILS)
THIS WEB SAME
THICKNESS AND
TAPER AS FLANGES
LOWER WING SHOWN
(UPPER WING SIMILAR EXCEPT
FOR CUT OUT FOR AILERONS)

ommended). Fit the stringers in the precut
notches in the ribs. Fix with glue. The
stringers are rather delicate, so be careful
handling the strips. Out at the wing tips the
stringers angle toward the wing tip strip as
seen in
Figure 1-7 .
You should be able to slide the lower strip
through the notches, or you could lay them
down before installing the ribs (an option
noted in Paragraph 3).
7. Adding Miscellaneous Stiffeners
and Lower Wing Walk
Install the 1/32" square stiffeners between
the ribs adjacent to the inboard edge of the
ailerons.
On the lower wings, fit the supports and
wood sheet over the two inboard ribs, which
provides a wing walk
(Figure 1-10) .
8. Installing the Leading Edge Cover
Sheet
Install the plywood cover sheet (also ply-
wood veneer on the real aircraft) on top of
the wings only. It fits from the leading edge
strip back to the middle of the front beam
(Figure 1-11) . Use some small clamps to
hold the cover sheet in position while the
glue dries, or glue the front first, then glue
the sheet to the front beam with super glue
plus accelerator for a quick fix. The wood is
not as long as the upper wing, so you must
have one butt joint. Place the butt joint at
one of the ribs.
9. Installing the Cap Strips
The upper cap strips can be installed while
the wings are still pinned to the building
board. The wings must be removed from the
board to install the lower strips. To hold the
cap strips in position for gluing, use a bent
pin, or super glue the cap strip at the leading
edge and use super glue plus accelerator at
the trailing edge. Then add glue to the
remaining areas. The cap strips butt into the
ply sheet on top of the wing and to the lead-
ing edge on the bottom.
After the wings are removed from the build-
ing board, add self-adhesive copper tape over
the trailing edge at each rib.
Figure 1-12
shows the cap strips and also the copper
tape. Remember this figure so you don’t
forget to add the tape later.
Another method for gluing cap strips is to
coat the rib and cap strip with white glue,
let dry, then use an iron to heat-bond the
cap strips on. Though I have no personal
experience with this method, I am told this
works fine.
Note: The basswood cap strips at 0.020" thick
are a little thicker than the 1/64"-thick ply
sheet (1/64" basswood not available). Sand
the front of the cap strips flush with the top
of the ply sheet. Also, sand the cap strips at
the trailing edge down to the steel rod before
applying the self-adhesive copper tape. The
ribs are a little deeper at the trailing edge
than is found on the real aircraft.
FIG. 1-8 WING TRAILING EDGE
1/32"-DIA. STEEL ROD
TRAILING EDGE
(ON UPPER WING, ROD
IS ONLY ON AILERONS)
SPLICE WITH THREAD
LOWER
WING TIP
FIG. 1-9 LOWER WING HANDHOLD
BLOCK
LEADING EDGE
LASER-CUT BLOCK
W23 – SAND FLUSH
WITH TOP OF WING
AND ROUND
THE HOLE EDGES
FIG. 1-10 WING WALK – LOWER WINGS
1/64" PLYWOOD
W8
W9
3/64" X 3/64"
STIFFENERS
WING WALK
SUPPORTS
FIG. 1-11 LEADING EDGE COVER SHEET
CENTER OF BEAM FLANGE
LEADING EDGE SHEET
1/64" PLYWOOD
WING WALK PLY–
LOWER WING
10
CAP STRIP
LATER
(UPPER WING SIMILAR)
CAP STRIP LATER, OR WING WALK
FIG. 1-12 RIB CAP STRIPS
SAND CAP STRIP ENDS
DOWN TO TRAILING
EDGE ROD
ADD SELF-
ADHESIVE
COPPER TAPE
OVER ROD
ATTRAILING EDGE
BUTT INTO
COVER PLY
.020" X 1/16"
CAP STRIP
BUTT LOWER STRIP
INTO LEADING EDGE
COVER PLY
TOP ONLY
SAND CAP STRIP FLUSH
WITH COVER PLY

FIG. 1-13 STRUT SUPPORT PADS & WING WIRE FITTING
PHOTO-ETCHED FITTING W22 –
BEND EYES TO WING WIRE ANGLES.
CUT OFF EYES NOT NEEDED
AT A GIVEN LOCATION.
CAP STRIP
FIG. 1-15 AILERON CONTROL HORNS & BRACE WIRE FITTINGS
CONTROL HORN CASTING C1
(TOP AND BOTTOM)
DRILL HOLE TOP AND BOTTOM
FOR CONTROL HORNS
.020" PAD
(TOP AND
BOTTOM)
FILLER BLOCK
11
10.Installing Wing Strut, Kingpost,
and Wing Skid Support Pads and
Fittings
The support pads are fitted on each side of
the cap strips in way of the struts. For the
lower wing, the inboard pads are on top of
the wing. The outboard pads are on both the
top and bottom of the wing. The bottom pads
are supports for the wing skid fittings. On
the upper wing center section, the pads are
located only on the bottom side. On the main
upper wing panels, install the pads on both
sides at the outer wing strut location. The
underside is support for the wing struts, and
the top side provides support for the king-
posts. At the inner strut location, locate the
pads only on the underside. The plan, Detail
2-I shows each pad required.
Glue the photo-etched copper wing strut
rigging plates (W22) to the pads, aligning
the center hole on the axis of the rib and
beam. A common photo-etched copper fit-
ting is provided in the kit. However, all the
rigging eyes are not needed at every loca-
tion. Cut off the eyes not required. The
plan, Detail 2-J, illustrates what each should
look like. Bend the remaining eyes to the
angle of the wing wires.
On the real aircraft, U bolts going under the
beams are used to hold the plates down. On
the model, glue the fitting to the wings. It
will also be held down when you insert the
struts in the holes.
After the fittings have been installed, or
before, drill a hole into the wing through the
center hole of the fitting for receiving the
wing strut, kingpost, and skid end fittings.
Figure 1-13 illustrates the installation of
pads and fitting.
11. Building and Installing the Upper
Wing Ailerons
Build the ailerons flat on the plan. First, lay
down the leading edge and rod trailing edge,
then pin and glue the ribs to the leading and
trailing edge. Install the stiffening between
ribs. Add the cap strips as you did the wing
panels, then add the copper bands at each
rib. Cut slots in the aileron leading edge and
the rear wing beam web for fake hinges. Use
a strip of brass for the fake hinges. The loca-
tion of the hinges is from factory plans. How-
ever, you could omit all but the two outer
hinges as an option on the model. See
Figure
1-14 for the basic aileron construction.
In way of the control horns, add the pads and
filler blocks on each side of the rib and drill a
hole for the fittings. Install the britannia
casting control horns (C1) and the three
back brace wire fittings (R2). See Figure 1-15
and plan Details 2-A and 2-D.
12.Installing the Aileron Control
Sheaves
Pin or glue the sheaves (C3) into the sheave
body (C4) to assemble the sheaves. The
sheaves are located on the front beam. Insert
a U pin made from brass rod into the beam
to attach the sheaves to the top and bottom
FIG. 1-14 BASIC AILERON CONSTRUCTION
1/64" X 1/16" BRASS FLAT BAR FAKE HINGE
CUT SLOT FOR FAKE
HINGES – CUT MATCHING
SLOT IN REAR WING
BEAM WEB
1/16" X 5/32"
LEADING
EDGE
.020" X 1/16"
CAP STRIPS
W14
1/32"-DIA. STEEL
ROD TRAILING
EDGE
TYPICAL FULL .020" SUPPORT
PAD. (SEE PLAN DETAIL 2-I
FOR PARTIAL PADS)
BEAM DRILL HOLE THROUGH
W22 INTO BEAM
WEB
BLOCK
RIB
COPPER
TAPE
SELF-ADHESIVE COPPER TAPE
AT EACH RIB
TYPICAL 1/32" STIFFENERS
SOLID RIB
W13
PHOTO-ETCHED
BACK BRACE
WIRE FITTING R2

of the wings (Figure 1-16 and plan Detail 2-
C) . Actual rigging of the aileron control wires
will be discussed in a later stage.
On the right side of the upper wing center sec-
tion add a similar U pin that will serve as a fair-
lead for the aileron control wire (See Figure 1-22) .
13.Installing the Drag Wires
The turnbuckles have an eye on each end.
One end can be tied with thread to the rig eye
fittings (R1), or if you file out one side of the
eye they can be hooked into the fitting. On
the real aircraft the end is U-shaped for bolt-
ing to the fitting.
Add the short turnbuckles (R3A) and rig the
drag wires (nylon cord on the model). These
go between the compression ribs on the main
wing panels and also on the upper wing cen-
ter section
(Figure 1-17) .
Try to be neat with the cord. Don’t get knots
too big. Touch all knots with super or white
glue so they won’t come adrift.
14.Installing the Fake Hinge Rods in
the Upper and Lower Wings
On the real aircraft, the lower wing was attached
to the fuselage and the upper wing was attached
to the center section by a pair of heavy hinges
bolted to the beam webs. Until such time as the
rigging wires were installed, the wings were not
supported and would rotate on the hinge. For
the model, the hinge has been faked to provide
a more rigid connection, so when the wings are
installed they don’t flop around, making instal-
lation of the struts and rigging easier. A simple
steel rod is provided as a fake hinge.
First, bend the steel rod to the angle of the wing
dihedral (1°). In order to maintain the 3/32" gap
between the outer wing panels and fuselage/
center wing section, an optional spacer inserted
onto the steel rod is suggested. This can be
made from a piece of wood, or of aluminum or
brass tubing with a 1/16" inside diameter.
Drill a hole in the end of the beams through
the precut guide holes in the inboard ribs for
inserting the fake hinge pin. Glue the rod
into the holes
(Figure 1-18) . Drill a similar
hole into the beams of upper wing center sec-
tion. For the lower wing, there will be holes
drilled in the fuselage. This will be shown in
the fuselage building stage.
15. Building and Installing the Lower
Wing Skids
Using the 3/32" square flexible beech wood,
shape the strip into a 1/16" dowel. The beech
bends rather easily, but can be easier and hold
its shape better if it is wet first. Pin the dowel
over the plan pattern and let dry. It may tend
to flex back a little, but that’s OK. When
installed in the skid fittings, it will be secure.
Fit the cast fitting (W21) at each end under
the lower wing, then glue the skids in the
holes. Figure 1-19 shows the process.
16. Building , Installing, and
Rigging the Kingposts
The kingposts are laser-cut, but you must
taper them and shape to a streamline section.
FIG. 1-16 AILERON CONTROL CABLE SHEAVES
BRASS ROD
CAP STRIP
FIG. 1-18 INSTALLING FAKE HINGE RODS
W1 (TOP WING)
W8 (BOTTOM WING) GLUE ROD IN HOLE
1 DEGREE
DRILL 1/16" HOLE INTO BEAMS
THROUGH PRE-CUT PILOT
HOLES IN LASER-CUT RIB
FIG. 1-17 WING DRAG WIRES
COMPRESSION RIB
SHORT TURNBUCKLE
R3A
.010"-DIA. GRAY
NYLON CORD
REAR WING BEAM
WEB BLOCK
WITH R1
FITTINGS
FITTING AT TOP AND
BOTTOM OF WING
CASTING C4
WING FRONT BEAM
LEADING EDGE
FRONT WING
BEAM
DRAG WIRES PASS
THROUGH HOLES
IN THESE
LIGHTENED RIBS
R3A
FAKE HINGE
(1/16"-DIA. STEEL ROD)
OPTIONAL SPACER
(WOOD OR TUBING)
CASTING C3
R3A
TYPICAL PANEL IN
LEFT WING
3/32" THICK
The end fittings are so small they have been
omitted on the model. Paint the ends black or
copper color to “fake” a fitting that is similar
to the wing struts. Install the single eye rig fit-
tings (R1) into the posts. Drill a hole in the
bottom of the posts and insert a brass pin.
Insert the kingposts into the holes on top of
the upper wing, then add the steel rod at top
between the front and rear posts. See
Figure
1-20 . Next, add the single eye rig fittings (R1)
on the wing for the kingpost brace wires. See
plan Detail 2-E.
The rigging for the kingposts can be accom-
plished at this time or wait until later. Refer
to Stage 7 and Sheet 6 for details. The short
turnbuckles (R3A) for the transverse wires
12

13
are at the lower end at the wing and at top of
the kingpost for the fore and aft wires.
Note: The kingposts are perpendicular to hori-
zontal and not at an angle like the wing struts.
17. Building the Upper Wing
Center Section
The center section is similar to the main
wing panels. The webs between the beam
flanges are the same thickness as the flanges.
The outer ribs are thicker than the center rib.
On the real aircraft these outer ribs are actu-
ally a box – two thin ribs with top and bottom
cap strips. Add the wire bracing fittings (R1)
to the webs of the beams. Rig the cords with
short turnbuckles (R3A).
Add the support pads and wing strut fittings
(W22) under the center section, and drill the
holes (if you have already not done so) for the
strut fittings as you did on the wings. Notice
that the upper and lower stringers on the cen-
ter section are staggered fore and aft. On the
main wing sections, the upper stringer is
directly above the lower stringer. Why this was
done on the actual aircraft is puzzling.
Figure
1-22 illustrates the completed center section.
18. Rounding the Leading Edge and
Wing Tips
If you haven’t gotten to it already, finish the
wings by rounding the leading edge and wing
tips. A sanding block should do the trick. See
the plan for the correct shapes.
19. Building the Wing Struts
The fittings at each end of the wing panel
struts and top of the center section struts are
britannia castings (W20). The fittings are oval
shaped, symmetrical in cross section front and
back, so the same casting can be used at the
upper and lower ends of the struts. However,
the laser-cut wood struts should be tapered in
between to a streamline, airfoil section as
shown on the plans. On the real aircraft the
end fittings are copper plate with a pin con-
nection that pins to the strut fittings on the
wings. For the model, the casting is a solid fit-
ting with a pin extension. This pin fits through
the holes in the photo-etched wing wire fit-
tings (W22) and into the holes in the wings.
Shape the ends of the wing struts to fit the
W20 end fittings and drill a hole for the cast-
ing pin extension into the strut. Epoxy the
fittings to the struts for added strength.
Don’t install the wing struts at this time, just
set aside for later.
Figure 1-21 illustrates the
wing strut construction.
The wings are now complete and can be
stained if desired and set aside. Store in a
protective cardboard box. Lay the wings flat
to help prevent warpage while stored. You
have two upper wing panels, an upper wing
center section, and two lower wing panels.
You also have all the wing struts completed
but not yet installed. The wings will be
assembled during the final stage. The struts
will be mounted, wings attached, rigging
wires added, and aileron, rudder, and elevator
control wires rigged.
FIG. 1-19 WING SKIDS
SUPPORT PADS UNDERSIDE
OF LOWER WING
AT FRONT BEAM
LEADING EDGE
STEAM OR WET
TO AID BENDING
IF NECESSARY
AT REAR BEAM SIMILAR
TO FRONT
DRILL 3/64" HOLE
SAND SKID ROUND 1/16"-DIA.
FROM 3/32" SQUARE
FLEXIBLE BEECH WOOD
CASTING W21
FIG. 1-20 KINGPOSTS
LASER-CUT
W19 – SAND
TO AIRFOIL
SHAPE
R1 RIG
FITTING
FRONT PANEL
SHOWN
(REAR SIMILAR)
SUPPORT
PAD – TOP
OF UPPER
WING
1/32"-DIA.
STEEL ROD
BETWEEN
FRONT
AND REAR
KINGPOSTS
DRILL
1/32"-DIA.
HOLE
1/32"-DIA.
BRASS
PIN
FIG. 1-22 WING CENTER SECTION
COPPER TAPE
CAP STRIP
W15
TRAILING EDGE
REAR BEAM –
WEB SAME
WIDTH AS
FLANGE
DRILL 1/16" HOLE FOR FAKE HINGE ROD
(SEE FIG. 1-18 FOR ROD)
W22 FITTING
UNDERSIDE
(SEE PLAN
DETAIL 2-J)
DRAG WIRES – TURNBUCKLES
R3A ATFRONT
BRASS ROD
FAIRLEAD
FOR AILERON
CONTROL
WIRE
(THIS SIDE
ONLY)
W15
FIG. 1-21 WING STRUTS
STRUTS WILL
BE INSTALLED
LATER
DRILL HOLE
FITTING W22
ON WINGS
CASTING
W20
LASER-CUT WING STRUT
W18 (LONG) OR
W17 (SHORT)
CUT TO FIT W20
HOLE IN WING BEAM
COVER
PLY
LEADING
EDGE FRONT BEAM –
WEB SAME WIDTH
AS FLANGE
SUPPORT
PAD
W16
STRINGERS

14
STAGE 2: BUILDING VERTICAL & HORIZONTAL STABILIZERS, RUDDER, & ELEVATOR
Plan Sheet 4 provides all the details for
constructing the tail surfaces. The plan also
shows the landing gear, but this will be dis-
cussed in a later stage. Also, consult Plan
Sheet 6 for the control horns and other
bracing wires. These brace cords can be
accomplished during this stage. The follow-
ing parts are required for this stage:
Laser-Cut Wood Parts
Horizontal stabilizer ribs – 5 of S1, 2 of S2
Elevator ribs – 4 of S3, 2 of S4
Britannia Castings
Rudder & elevator control horns – 6 of C2
Photo-Etched Copper Parts
Vertical and horizontal stabilizer brace
wire single eye rig fitting, and fittings in
the ends of the wooden horizontal stabi-
lizer struts – 18 of R1
Elevator and rudder control horn brace
wire double eye rig fitting – 8 of R2
Turnbuckles – 18 of R3A (short)
Wood Strips (cut to length as required)
Horizontal stabilizer vertical rib stiffeners –
0.020" x 1/32"
Horizontal stabilizer and elevator rib cap
strips – 0.020" x 1/16"
Horizontal stabilizer and elevator, rudder
diagonal stiffeners – 1/32" x 1/32" and
1/32" x 5/32"
Rudder ribs – 1/32" x 1/16"
Horizontal stabilizer chock blocks – 3/32"
x 1/8"
Horizontal stabilizer trailing edge and ele-
vator leading edge –1/32" x 1/8" and
1/16" x 3/32"
Vertical stabilizer leading and trailing
edge, and rudder leading edge – 1/16" x
1/16"
Vertical stabilizer stiffeners and chocks –
1/32" x 1/32" and 1/32" x 1/16"
Vertical stabilizer bottom stiffener and
corner chock blocks – 1/16" x 1/8"
Steel Rod (cut to length as required)
Elevator and rudder trailing edge –
1/32"-diameter
Horizontal stabilizer leading edge –
1/16"-diameter
Brass Strip (cut to length as required)
Rudder/elevator fake hinges – 1/64" x 1/16"
Self-Adhesive Copper Tape
(cut to size as required)
Horizontal stabilizer leading edge and
elevator and rudder trailing edge bands
Rigging Cord (cut to length as required)
Brace wires from vertical to horizontal sta-
bilizer and brace wires for control horns –
0.010"-diameter gray nylon cord
Wrapping cord for splices – 0.008"
diameter black nylon cord
1. Building the Vertical Stabilizer
The vertical stabilizer is an all wooden struc-
ture. Assemble the stabilizer over the plan.
Pin down the leading edge, trailing edge, and
bottom piece. Preshape the curved bottom to
fit the top of the horizontal stabilizer center
FIG. 2-1 VERTICAL STABILIZER ASSEMBLY
BRACE WIRE FITTINGS R1
1/32" X 1/16" DIAGONAL
STIFFENER IS FLUSH
WITH RIGHT SIDE OF
STABILIZER
TRAILING EDGE
1/16" X 1/16"
CUT SLOTS TO FIT
RUDDER FAKE
HINGES
LOCATE THIS STIFFENER
ON CENTERLINE
LEADING EDGE
1/16" X 1/16"
SAND ROUND
1/32" CHOCK
1/16"
CHOCK
1/32" X 1/32" STIFFENERS
ARE FLUSH WITH LEFT
SIDE OF STABILIZER
SHAPE TO FIT HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
FROM 1/16" X 1/8" STRIP
1/16"
CHOCK
1/32" CHOCKS
FIG. 2-2 RUDDER ASSEMBLY
COPPER TAPE
STEEL ROD
EPOXY FILLER
BRACE WIRE
FITTING R2
TAPERED RIBS
CHOCKS
CONTROL HORN
CASTING C2
(BOTH SIDES)
SHORTEN PIN SO BOTH
HORNS WILL FIT IN HOLE
FAKE HINGE
rib. All these pieces are the same thickness.
Next, add the diagonal stiffener that fits flush
with the right side of the stabilizer. Then fit
the small horizontal and vertical stiffeners
with their small triangular chocks. The ones
crossing the diagonal stiffener fit flush on
the opposite (left) side of the stabilizer. The
top horizontal one fits on the center of the
leading and trailing edge. Finally, round the
leading edge.
Add the fittings (R1) for the brace wires at
the top of the stabilizer, one on each side.
Cut the photo-etched copper parts to the
length required.
In the trailing edge, cut the slots that will fit
the fake rudder hinges. See the note in Para-
graph 2 below.
Figure 2-1 illustrates the entire vertical
stabilizer assembly.
2. Building the Rudder
Some Jenny’s had a rudder with a steel trail-
ing edge and wooden leading edge, and stiff-
eners, similar to the elevator. Others had an
all tubular steel rudder. We have selected the
former for the model because of difficulty in
casting an all metal rudder.
On the real aircraft, the trailing edge was a
V-shaped bent steel plate. For the model you
will use a round steel rod. Bend the 1/32"
steel rod trailing edge to the shape shown on
the plan. Cut the 1/16" square wooden lead-
ing edge to length and slot the top and bot-
tom to fit the trailing edge. Glue the trailing
edge rod in place and add a small amount of
filler between the leading and trailing edge
at top and bottom.
The horizontal ribs are made from 1/32" x
1/16" basswood strip. Cut to length and taper
the ribs from 1/16" at the leading edge to
1/32" at the trailing edge. Glue the ribs in
place. For the vertical and diagonal stiffen-
ers, cut from 1/32" x 1/16" basswood strips.
At each location shape the stiffeners so they
are flush with the ribs and taper to 1/32" at
the trailing edge rod. Add the small chocks at
the intersections of rib and stiffeners. Add
self adhesive-copper tape strips over each

15
joint that intersects with the steel rod.
On the third rib from the top, add the two filler
blocks above and below the rib at the leading
edge. Drill the hole for the control horns.
Finally, glue the two photo-etched copper fit-
tings (R2) for the control horn brace wires
and add the britannia cast control horns (C2).
Since the rudder is so narrow, shorten the
pins on each horn so they both will fit in the
drilled hole. Epoxy the horns in place.
Figure 2-2 illustrates the assembled rudder.
Note: The hinges on the real aircraft rudder
are very small and so are faked on the model.
1/64" x 1/16" brass strip is provided. Cut slots
in the rudder leading edge, the vertical stabi-
lizer, and the fuselage tailpost for the fake
hinge strips. Also, the control horns are
actually bolted together with four bolts
on the real aircraft.
For now, do not mount the rudder. It is best
installed after the horizontal and vertical stabi-
lizer are glued to the fuselage during Stage 7.
3. Building the Horizontal Stabilizer
The airfoil has a flat bottom, so the stabilizer
can be built directly on the plan. However, it
is suggested that some shims be placed under
the leading and trailing edges to keep the
parts off the plan a bit.
The horizontal stabilizer on the real aircraft
has a steel tubing leading edge. For the model,
it’s just a solid steel wire. Bend it to the plan
shape and pin it to the plan. The trailing edge
on the real aircraft is a rabbeted wooden spar.
For the model, two separate pieces are used to
form the rabbet for butting the cap strips. Glue
these together and taper the ends.
The ribs are laser-cut wood parts; the spar and
diagonal stiffening are wood strips. First, add
the vertical web stiffeners in way of lightening
holes to each side of the ribs just like you did on
the wings. Lay down the leading and trailing
edge, then glue the ribs in place. Next, add the
front spar. On the real aircraft this is a continu-
ous spar, but for the model, fit pieces between
the ribs. Make sure they are aligned on each
side of the ribs so they look continuous. The
spar tapers at the end as shown on the plan.
The main spar and the leading edge has some
blocking for U bolts to secure the stabilizer to
the fuselage. When installing the stabilizer
you could dispense with the bolting or install
thin brass or copper wire to represent the
bolts. Your choice.
Install the small chocks at the trailing edge
and in way of the struts under the stabilizer.
Finally, add the diagonal stiffeners that taper.
The upper cap strips can be added while the
stabilizer is still on the plan. Add the lower
cap strips after the stabilizer is removed from
the plan.
Option: You could glue the cap strips top and
bottom prior to installing the ribs. However,
be sure you extend the strips past the rear end
of the ribs, since the caps lie on the rabbeted
trailing edge.
Cut the slots for the fake hinges in the trail-
ing edge. Add the self-adhesive copper strips
FIG. 2-4 ELEVATOR ASSEMBLY
CONTROL HORN CASTING C2
(TOP AND BOTTOM)
COPPER
TAPE
RIB S4
DRILL HOLE
(TOP AND BOTTOM)
LEADING EDGE HAS SAME CROSS SECTION
AS HORIZONTAL STABILIZER TRAILING EDGE
(SEE FIG. 2-3)
1/32" X 1/32"
.020" X 1/16"
CAP STRIP
1/16" X 1/16" S3
BRACING WIRE
FITTING R2
SUPPORT PADS AND
FILLER BLOCKS
1/32" X 1/32"
ROUNDED
TO DOWEL
S3
SPLICE WITH
THREAD
1/32"-DIA. STEEL ROD
TRAILING EDGE
SLOTS FOR FAKE HINGE
LEFT SIDE SHOWN
(RIGHT SAME TO
OPPOSITE HAND)
FIG. 2-3 HORIZONTAL STABILIZER ASSEMBLY
COPPER TAPE AT RIBS AND STIFFENERS
CENTERLINE
BOLTING BLOCK .020" X 1/16" CAP STRIPS
(TOP AND BOTTOM)
.020" X 1/32" RIB WEB
STIFFENERS – APPLY
BEFORE INSTALLING
RIBS
“RABBETED” TRAILING EDGE
CHOCK
BLOCKS
1/32" X 1/8"
SUGGESTED
SHIMS TO
KEEP PARTS
OFF PLAN
RIB CAP STRIPS
S2
SLOT FOR FAKE HINGES (BRASS BAR)
BRACE WIRE
FITTINGS R1
SUPPORT BLOCKS
.020" PADS ON TOP
AND BOTTOM,
FILLER BLOCKS
IN BETWEEN
S1
S1
1/32" – FIT
BETWEEN RIBS
1/16"-DIA. STEEL ROD
LEADING EDGE
1/32"
1/16" X 3/32"
CHOCK BLOCK
SUPPORT FOR STRUT
TO FUSELAGE
1/32" STIFFENER –
FIT BETWEEN
RIBS
S1
3/64" X 5/32"
SPAR – FIT
BETWEEN RIBS
at each rib over the leading edge. Install the
brace wire fittings (R1) into the trailing edge
as shown. This completes the horizontal sta-
bilizer. The assembly is shown in
Figure 2-3 .
There are two wooden struts from the hori-
zontal stabilizer to the fuselage on each
side. Install these later along with the stabi-
lizer. However, you can make them now and
set aside. The struts are a streamlined sec-
tion and have an R1 fitting in each end.
These fittings are for bolting to the fuselage
and stabilizer. For the model, they can just
be glued.
4. Building & Installing the Elevator
The elevator leading edge is the same cross
section as the horizontal stabilizer trailing
edge. The trailing edge has a short piece of
wood from the leading edge, then has a tube
secured to it for the remaining trailing edge.
On the real aircraft the tubing was either an
oval tubing or a V-shaped bent steel plate.
For the model, you will use a round steel
rod. At the splice between the steel rod and
wooden section, wrap with black cord.
Ribs are laser-cut and are fitted with cap
strips. Build the elevator like the stabilizer,
over the plan. Install the upper cap strips
while the elevator is on the plan. Add the
blocks in way of the center ribs to provide a
seat for the control cable horns.
Install the tapered diagonal stiffeners and
the stringers. The stringers are located at
the top and bottom of the ribs. Round the
square stock into a dowel, and fit the
stringers between the ribs (or, as an option,
leave them square). You could also use a
continuous stringer and cut notches in the

16
Plan Sheet 3 shows all the details for construct-
ing the basic fuselage. The plan also shows the
cross bracing wires for the fuselage and the alu-
minum cockpit cowl. However, do not install
the cockpit cowl or any brace wires that would
interfere with installing cockpit controls. The
cowl and some wires would get in the way
when installing cockpit controls, seats, etc. The
instrument panel fittings should be installed
during this stage, as it is easier to place these in
the instrument panel formers before the form-
ers are installed. The landing gear, remaining
cockpit controls, and engine installation will
also be discussed in later stages. The following
parts are required for this stage:
Laser-Cut Wood Parts
Forward instrument panel former – 1 of F1
Aft instrument panel former– 1 of F2
Turtleback formers – 1 each of F3 through
F10
Fuselage building jig center piece – 1 of F26
Fuselage building jig formers – 1 each of
F27 through F32
Britannia Castings
Oil pressure gauges – 2 of E1
Altimeters – 2 of E2
Ignition Switch – 1 of E3
Air speed indicator – 1 of E4
Tachometer – 1 of E5
Water temperature gauge – 1 of E6
Photo-Etched Copper Parts
Double eye cross brace wire fitting – 24
of F11
Triple eye cross brace wire fitting – 18
of F12
Strut clips Station 6 thru11 – 24 of F13
Nose plate front piece – 1 of F14
Nose plate side pieces – 2 of F15
Upper strut clip Station 2 – 2 of F16
Lower strut clip at Station 2 – 2 of F17
Upper strut clip at Station 3 – 2 of F18
Lower strut clip at Station 3 – 2 of F19
Upper strut clip at Station 4 & 5 – 4 of F20
Lower strut clip at Station 4 and 5 – 4 of F21
Step plate – 1 of F22
Single eye rig fitting – 32 of R1
Turnbuckles – 82 of R3A (short)
Steel Rod
Tail skid support rods – 1/32"-dia. rod
Wood Strips (cut to length as required)
Turtleback stringers – 1/32" x 3/64"
Floor boards and shelf behind the rear
cockpit – 1/32" x 1/2"
Vertical and horizontal struts and vertical
longitudinal seat rail struts – 1/16" x 1/16"
STAGE 3: BUILDING THE BASIC FUSELAGE
FIG. 3-1 FUSELAGE BUILDING JIG
F26 – CENTER PIECE
F27
TYPICAL 1/8"
DOWEL AT
EACH FORMER
F28
F29 – FORMERS
F30
F31
F32
FRONT
FIG. 3-3 STRUTS AT STATIONS 6 TO 11
1/16"
SQUARE
USE
SUPER
GLUE
FILE
GROOVE
F11
F11
top and bottom of the ribs like the stringers
of the wing ribs. These notches are not
laser-cut into the elevator ribs for fear the
rib may break between the upper and lower
notches before assembly.
After removing the elevator from the build-
ing board, add copper tape and the fittings
for the control cable brace wires (R2) at the
trailing edge in way of the ribs. Mount the
control horns (C2), then add the lower cap
strips to the ribs. Cut slots for the fake
hinges in the leading edge, then assemble
the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer using
brass strip as fake hinges.
Figure 2-4 illustrates the elevator assembly.
5. Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer
Now is a good time to mount the vertical
stabilizer on top of the horizontal stabilizer.
Simply glue this on top of the center hori-
zontal stabilizer rib cap strip. Make sure it
is vertical. On the real aircraft the vertical
stabilizer is bolted on.
You can install the brace wires at this time
using the 0.010" gray nylon cord. Short turn-
buckles (R3A) are located at the horizontal
stabilizer end.
Like the wings, store the completed tail sur-
faces and struts in a safe place until they are
ready to be installed on the fuselage.
FIG. 3-2 STRUTS AT STATIONS 3, 4 & 5
HOLE FOR
ENGINE BEARER
SUPPORT BEAM
STATION 3
STATION 4
(5 SIMILAR)
HOLE FOR FAKE LOWER
WING HINGES –
DRILL LATER TO
MATCH WING
MORTISE BOTH
SIDES
Longerons – 1/16" x 3/32"
Engine support beam – 3/32" x 3/16"
Engine bearers – 1/8" x 3/16"
Longitudinal and transverse seat rails
and strut between rails – 1/16" x 1/8"
Floor board supports, large vertical struts
(Stations 4 & 5) and tailpost – 1/16" x 3/16"
Large vertical struts (Station 3) – 1/16"
x 1/4"
Wood Dowels (cut to length as required)
Fuselage building jig dowel pins –
1/8"-diameter
Rigging Cord (cut to length as required)
Fuselage cross bracing wires – 0.010"-
diameter gray nylon cord
Wrapping cord for splices – 0.008"-diam-
eter black nylon cord
1. Building the Fuselage Jig
The fuselage sides can be assembled directly
on the plan like the wings. Then, the sides
will be transferred to a building jig. The jig
will hold the sides in the correct shape so the
top and bottom struts can be added, result-
ing in a correctly shaped fuselage.
Start by assembling the laser-cut building
jig. Assemble the jig on a rigid board like a
plywood board or particle board (not sup-
plied in the kit). First, draw a straight guide
line on the board. Tack or glue (or both) the
jig center piece (F26) to the board, using the
drawn line to get it straight. Next, insert a
1/2" long piece of 1/8" dowel through each of
the round holes in all the laser-cut formers

FIG. 3-5 SIDES IN JIG
1/2"
RIGHT
SIDE
RUBBER BANDS
AT EACH FORMER
17
(F27 through F32) and glue. These dowels
are used for rubber banding the fuselage
sides to the formers.
Fit each former in the slots in the center
piece. Check with a square to see if they are
perpendicular to the center piece and board.
Then glue them in place. Super glue will
work just fine here.
Figure 3-1 illustrates the
jig. Set the jig aside for now.
2. Building the Sides of the Fuselage
On the plan, starting at the nose, the side
vertical struts (and corresponding top and
bottom horizontal struts) are labeled Station
1 through 11. I will refer to these Stations in
the discussion.
The sides are to be built directly on the plan,
and both are identical. Build one side then the
other using the bottom plan on Sheet 3. This
view just shows the longerons, vertical struts,
and brace wire fittings that must be installed
along with the vertical struts. To avoid gluing
any parts to the plan, use some shims under
the longerons. Place these just to the side of
the vertical strut locations. Pin the 1/16" x
3/32" longerons over the plan. Since they are
raised a bit, make sure they are located direct-
ly over the longerons on the plan. The longer-
ons at the forward end have a rather sharp
curve, so it would be wise to heat-bend the
ends to conform to the curve. Heat-bending
will relieve some stress so the longerons won’t
spring apart and break glue joints.
Using the single plan for both sides requires
care in assembly. Remember that the right
side of the fuselage will be the inside you are
looking at. You want the other side, which will
be the outside of the fuselage, to look good
with no glue squeeze-out. An option, make a
reverse quick copy of the plan and you will
have two plans with the outside showing up.
Cut the vertical struts for both sides of the
fuselage at the same time, measuring lengths
from the plan.
At Station 1, there is a 1/16" wooden strut
that will later be covered by a photo-etched
plate (F15) that fits on the outside of the
longerons. On the real aircraft there is no
wooden strut at Station 1, but for the model
it aids assembly.
The strut at Station 2 is 1/16" square. Do not
add any fittings at this time. A special fitting
strut clip will be added later.
The three large struts at Station 3, 4, and 5 sup-
porting the center section wing struts and rear
end of the engine bearers on the real aircraft
are heavy struts mortised out along the center
on both sides. Cut these struts from stripwood.
For the model, make the mortise using a hobby
blade to cut the depth and a small chisel to hol-
low out the mortise
(Figure 3-2) .
The rear struts at Station 6 through 11 must
be prefitted with a photo-etched copper two-
eye cross brace wire fitting (F11) at each end
before being installed. The fore and aft eyes
are for the cross brace wires in the sides. File
slots in each end of the wooden struts for
receiving the fitting. Cut the slots to a depth
FIG. 3-4 COMPLETED FUSELAGE SIDE
1/16"-THICK STRUTS
F11
LONGERONS
1/16" X 3/32"
1/16" SQUARE STRUTS
1/16" SQUARE
STRUTS
3/32" THIS WAY TYPICAL SHIMS
TO KEEP
PARTS OFF
PLAN
equal to the thickness of the fitting. Glue the
fittings in place with super glue. Finally,
bend the eyes down on each end to the angle
of the cross brace wires (Figure 3-3) .
The tailpost will be installed later between
the two fuselage sides, after the sides are in
the jig.
Start at the forward end of the fuselage and
glue all the struts to the longerons. Careful
you don’t get any globs of glue into the eyes
of the rigging fittings.
Figure 3-4 illustrates
one completed side assembly.
3. Placing the Sides in the
Building Jig
Set both sides in the building jig. Make sure
both sides are aligned. The distance from the
top front of the upper longerons to the face
of the first building jig former should be 1/2".
Hold the sides against the jig formers with
rubber bands (Figure 3-5) . Again, check the
alignment of the sides. A little care here will
eliminate a crooked fuselage.
A lot of work can be done on the fuselage
with it in the jig. You may need to remove
the fuselage at times, add some details, and
replace it in the jig. It’s really up to you what
you can accomplish with it in the jig. Do as
much as you can.
4. Building and Installing the
Horizontal Struts
At Station 1 there is no wooden strut. The
nose plate (F14) will do this job and is dis-
cussed later.
At Station 2, there is a 1/16" square strut
only at the bottom of the fuselage. This strut
requires a double end rig fitting for the bot-
tom cross brace wires. The detail is similar to
the rear side struts as shown in
Figure 3-3 .
At Station 3, the top strut is actually a sup-
port beam for the engine bearers that will
be discussed later. The bottom strut is 1/16"
square. In addition, add 1/16" support blocks
at each end of the strut. These blocks sup-
port the forward landing gear struts. Into
the blocks add R1 fittings for the cross brace
wires
(Figure 3-6) .
At Station 4 and 5, at the top, there is a 1/16"
square strut with no fittings. Note that the
strut at Station 5 is located at the back end
of the side struts. This provides clearance for

FIG. 3-6 BOTTOM STRUT
AT STATION 3
SIDE STRUT
LONGERON
1/16" SQUARE
STRUT
R1
1/16"-THICK
BLOCKS
FIG. 3-7 BOTTOM STRUTS
AT STATIONS 4 & 5
SIDE
STRUT
3/16"
SQUARE
STRUT
R1
(BOTH
SIDES)
LONGERON
FIG. 3-9 STRUTS AT STATION 11
1/32"-DIA.
STEEL
RODS
USE R1 FITTING
(FORWARD SIDE
ONLY)
SIDE
STRUT
1/16" X 1/32" STRUTS
(TOP AND BOTTOM)
LONGERON
FIG. 3-10 INSTALLING THE TAILPOST
1/16" X 3/16"
TAILPOST
TAPER THE
INSIDE ENDS
OF THE
LONGERONS
R1
FIG. 3-8 STRUTS AT STATIONS 6 TO 10
SIDE STRUT
CUT OFF THIS
FORWARD EYE
AT STATION 6
(TOP STRUT
ONLY)
FILE
GROOVES –
USE
SUPER
GLUE
1/16"
SQUARE
LOWER
STRUT
(TOP
STRUT
SIMILAR)
LONGERON
FITTING F12
ROTATED
VIEW
the front seat back. At the bottom of the
fuselage the struts are 3/16" square. This is
strictly a model item. The large struts sup-
port the lower wing fake hinge pins, and also
the rear landing gear strut. On the real air-
craft there is a steel tube supporting the
wing hinges. At each end of these struts,
install R1 fittings for the lower brace wires
(Figure 3-7) .
A word of caution: When installing the
3/16" square bottom struts, check to make
sure they are centered on the fake hinge pins
in the wings. Recheck again when you install
the photo-etched rig fittings. You don’t want
to get the struts with the copper fittings in
place, then find out the wing pins won’t fit
the holes.
Stations 6 through 10 have top and bottom
1/16" square struts. For rigging, use three
eye rig fitting (F12). Two eyes are for the top
(or bottom) cross brace wires, and the third
eye is for the brace wires across the fuselage
at each station. At Station 6, there are no
wires forward of Station 6 at the top. Cut off
one of the eyes from the fittings as required
(Figure 3-8) .
At Station 11, the top and bottom struts are
1/16" x 3/32" (same depth as the longerons),
as these struts represent a steel box on the
real aircraft supporting the tail skid. Also,
only a single rigging eye is required, as there
are no horizontal brace wires aft of Station
11. Use a single eye rig fitting R1 for these.
Also, add the two vertical steel rods between
the top and bottom struts for additional sup-
port for the tail skid
(Figure 3-9) .
Between Stations 10 and 11, there are vertical
diagonal boards which strengthen the fuse-
lage in way of the tail skid. These fit on the
inside of the longerons. See the profile view
on the plan.
Install the struts, starting at the bottom of the
fuselage. Note that all struts should be flush
with the outside of the longerons. The longer-
ons are deeper than the struts (except for Sta-
tion 11, which is the same as the longerons).
5. Longeron Splices
On the real aircraft, the longerons are spliced
just aft of the cockpit between Stations 6 and
7. The forward end is oak or ash and the aft
end spruce. For the model, no splice is
required, but wrap the “fake” splice area with
black cord. A similar wrap is used on the real
aircraft. Refer to the profile view on the plan.
6. Building & Installing the Tailpost
Make the tailpost from stripwood. Fit two
single eye rig fittings (R1) at top and bottom.
Each will serve the brace wires from both
sides. The slots in back of the tailpost for the
fake rudder hinges can be cut later when the
tail surfaces are being installed to ensure an
accurate fit of the rudder. Taper the ends of
the longerons on each side and glue in the
tailpost
(Figure 3-10) .
7. Installing the Front and Side Nose
Plates and Engine Bearers
Glue on the photo-etched side nose plates
(F15) from top to bottom longerons. The
front nose plate is also a photo-etched copper
part (F14). Bend the top end corners to the
angle of the longerons and bend the bottom
end tabs forward to provide support for the
radiator. Also, bend the tabs within the
engine bearer holes down aft to provide
support for the bearers. Fit and glue the
nose plate on the fuselage.
Note that on the real aircraft, the side plates
are actually a bent part of the nose plate, but
they have been separated on the model.
At the top and bottom of the side plates,
there is a hole for inserting wing drag wire
fittings (R1). Drill a hole into the longerons
and insert these after F14 is glued to the
longerons. See Figure 3-11 for the nose
plate details.
For the engine bearers, first fit the cross
beam at Station 3 which fits in the holes in
the side vertical struts. Make the engine
bearers from stripwood. Insert in the nose
plate rectangular openings. The aft ends
rest on the cross beam at Station 3. The
18

19
bearers are parallel to each other, so posi-
tion them thus. Glue the bearers at both
ends. On the real aircraft the engine bearers
are held to the support beam by U bolts over
the bearers. You can use brass wire to fake
these bolts or omit them. There is also an
angle brace on each side securing the bear-
ers to the side struts. Make these from brass
strip
(Figure 3-12) .
Notice that the bearers slope downward pro-
viding downthrust for the propeller. Some
Jenny’s were built with the bearers level and
therefore had no downthrust.
Note: If you elect to add the tubing, piping,
and linkages for the engine (see Stage 6), you
may want to hold off on rigging the side
truss wires forward of Station 4 to give you
better access to the interior.
8. Installing the Cockpit Floor Board
Supports and Floor Boards
Edge glue three 1/32" basswood strips
together to form the floor boards. Shape
as shown on the plan. The ends of the
transverse support pieces sit on top of the
lower longerons. The floor boards are level
so the transverse supports vary in height.
Figure 3-13 illustrates the floor boards
and supports.
9. Installing the Longitudinal
Side Seat Rails
The longitudinal seat rails, which also serve
as supports for the elevator bar control fit-
ting and aileron control sheaves, are
secured to the inside of the struts in the
cockpit area from Station 4 to 6. Glue these
to the struts. Assure the correct angle.
Between the seat support rail and lower
longeron, install the two vertical supports
on each side
(Figure 3-14) .
Note: Two transverse supports for each seat
and a transverse strut between the rails at
Station 5 will be installed when the seats
are installed. At this point, these strips
would hinder installing the flight controls
on the floor boards.
1
0.
Installing Forward and Rear Cock-
pit Instrument Panels, and Shelf
Behind Rear Cockpit
Firewall: The real Jenny has a steel plate
firewall at Station 3. However, I have elimi-
nated the firewall on the model to provide a
better view of the fuel tank and other inter-
nal items. You could add the firewall if
desired, using aluminum sheet or plywood.
Note: The Jenny instrument panels varied
from aircraft to aircraft. For our model I
have selected an arrangement with the most
common gauges and switches.
Forward cockpit instrument panel: The
instrument panel former (F1) is laser-cut.
Add the map case, which is simply a shallow
box with a folding door fashioned from wood
strip. Fit the britannia castings for the oil
pressure gauge (E1) and the altimeter (E2).
Beforehand, drill a hole in the back of E1
FIG. 3-11 INSTALLING NOSE & NOSE SIDE PLATES
BEND TABS IN ENGINE
BEARER HOLES
DOWN AND AFT TO
SUPPORT BEARER
NOSE PLATE
F14
HOLE FOR R1 – DRILL
THROUGH F15 HOLES
BEND THESE TABS DOWN
AND AFT TO ANGLE
OF LONGERONS
BEND RADIATOR SUPPORT
TABS UP AND FORWARD
R1
FIG. 3-13 INSTALLING FLOOR BOARDS
STATION 5
STRUT
LONGERON
ADD SHIM AS NECESSARY SO TOP
OF STATION STRUT IS LEVEL WITH
OTHER FLOOR BOARD SUPPORTS
STATION 4 STRUT
TYPICAL 1/16"-THICK FLOOR BOARD
SUPPORTS – ALL HAVE DIFFERENT
HEIGHTS SO FLOOR BOARD WILL BE LEVEL
FIG. 3-12 INSTALLING THE ENGINE BEARERS & SUPPORT
F15 SIDE
NOSE PLATE
(BOTH SIDES)
R1
1/8" X 3/16"
ENGINE BEARER
BEARER IS
FLUSH WITH
FRONT OF
NOSE PLATE SUPPORTTAB IN NOSE
PLATE (SEE FIG. 3-11)
NOSE PLATE
F14
FIT SUPPORT BEAM IN SIDE
STRUTS FLUSH WITH
OUTSIDE OF STATION 3
1/16" X 3/16" BEARER
SUPPORT BEAM
BETWEEN SIDE STRUTS
ANGLE BRACKET
(BRASS STRIP)
U BOLTS
(BRASS WIRE)
R1 FITTING FOR
CENTER WING SECTION
DRAG WIRE
UPPER LONGERON
1/32"-THICK
FLOOR BOARDS

20
for the copper fake tubing to be added later.
Glue the panel on top of the longerons just aft
of the Station 4 horizontal strut in the loca-
tion shown on the plan. Add a small chock at
each longeron to help support the panel in a
vertical position (Figure 3-15) .
Rear cockpit instrument panel: The aft
instrument panel former (F2) is also laser-
cut. Fit the britannia cast instruments: Oil
pressure gauge (E1), Altimeter (E2), Ignition
switch (E3), Airspeed indicator (E4), Tacho-
meter (E5), and Water temperature gauge
(E6). Drill a hole beforehand in the back of E1
and E6 for the copper wire fake tubing to be
added later. Glue the panel in place just aft of
the Station 5 horizontal strut in the location
shown on the plan and add a chock similar to
the forward panel
(Figure 3-16) .
Note: The kit does not include any faces for the
various instruments. You could paint the faces,
or make your own decals. Cover with a clear
plastic or clear varnish to represent glass. Or,
omit the faces altogether; your choice.
Shelf behind the rear cockpit: Add the shelf
using 1/32"-thick wood. The shelf extends
from the horizontal strut behind the cockpit
back to the turtleback former. Locate the
shelf between and at the bottom of the upper
longerons. The shelf often contained a small
fire extinguisher. The shelf is shown on the
top longeron plan on Sheet 3.
11. Installing the Fuselage Strut Clips
The cross brace rigging eyes have already
been installed for the vertical and horizontal
struts at Stations 6 through 11. As a final
touch for these joints, add the photo-etched
copper clips (F13) on the longerons. Bend
each clip over or under the longerons as
required
(Figure 3-17) . On the real aircraft,
these clips are actually a bolting clip for the
struts. For the model, these are just fake clips
for added detail.
The ends of the vertical struts at Station 2
through 5 require some special clips (F16
through F21). These clips secure the struts to
the longerons and contain rigging eyes for the
side cross brace wires. The lower clips at Station
4 and 5 also have eyes for wing flying wires.
The clips at Stations 2 through 5 on the real
aircraft are actually a U-shaped clip, so the clip
is the same on both sides of the longerons.
However, for the model these are designed to
be installed only on the outside, where they
can be seen. Glue the clips in place and bend
the tabs around the struts for added support.
They might fall off while rigging if only glue is
used. The tabs on the upper clips at Stations 4
and 5 form a socket for the lower ends of the
center section wing struts.
At Station 2, the upper strut clips bend over a
horizontal 1/16" square strut. The front of
this strut will be secured to a bracket on the
radiator when it is installed.
Note that the lower fitting at Stations 4 and 5
is saddled over the holes in the fuselage for
the lower wing fake hinges pins. To accurately
locate the fittings, use the completed wing
hinge pins as a guide.
FIG. 3-14 INSTALLING SEAT RAILS
1/16" X 1/8" SIDE RAIL
1/16" SQUARE VERTICAL
SUPPORT
STATION 5
STATION 6
STATION 4
FIG. 3-15 FORWARD INSTRUMENT PANEL
LONGERON
ALTIMETER E2
DRILL HOLE IN BACK OF E1
FOR COPPER WIRE FAKE
TUBING (SEE PLAN SHEET 5)
LASER-CUT F1
MAP CASE –
MAKE FROM
STRIPWOOD
DOOR
WITH
HINGES
AND KNOB
OIL PRESSURE E1
FIG. 3-16 REAR INSTRUMENT PANEL
SUPPORT
CHOCK
LONGERON
WATER TEMP
E6
DRILL HOLE IN BACK OF E1
AND E6 FOR COPPER
WIRE FAKE TUBING
(SEE PLAN SHEET 5)
LASER-CUT F2
AIR SPEED E4
ALTIMETER E2
OIL PRESSURE E1
SUPPORT
CHOCK
TACH E5
SWITCH
E3