Model Airways Fokker Eindecker E-IV User manual

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Before You Begin to Build
At 1:16 scale, it is easy to build this Fokker Eindecker E-IV model and obtain precise detail. Laser cut
parts offer a simple building method. Britannia (white metal) parts eliminate creating metal parts from
scratch. However; some metal fittings will need to be formed using brass tube for authentic detailing.
Before starting to assemble the model, carefully examine the kit and study the Plan Sheets and the
Assembly Instruction Manual. First, determine if all the listed kit parts are present using the Plan
Parts Layout Sheet; Materials List and Assembly Instructions. Handling the parts will provide a
better understanding of the kit’s building requirements. Try to visualize how every part will look on the
completed model. Also, try to follow the building sequence and what must be completed first, or ahead
of time and what can be done simultaneously if you wish. For example, you may want to skip to the
Propeller as you are working on the Fuselage waiting for glued assemblies to set or paint to dry.
The Plans: Four (4) Plan Sheets are provided for reference and part identification and may not be
exactly true to scale due to the reproduction process. These drawings show elevation views, a parts
layout with color guide and laser cut layout sheets. Review and study the plans and assembly
instructions prior to starting the build to better understand how the parts will come together and the
proper build sequence.
Make Allowances: Try to be exact when following the instructions, but use common sense.
Adjustments may be necessary to compensate for small differences in how your model is shaping up
and how the parts are relating to each other. An old saying in the model building craft is that “if it looks
right, it is right.” Also check the instruction photographs for various details before working on them.
Kit Lumber: Laser cut Plywood and Basswood parts are supplied in the kit. A word about laser cutting:
a common misconception is that the parts should punch out of the carrier sheet. This is not so. Laser
cut parts are retained in the carrier sheet by small bridges of uncut wood called tabs. Tabs can be
oriented parallel to the wood grain or perpendicular to the wood grain. It is always better to cut through
these tabs rather than try to punch out the parts by breaking the tabs. You may have to cut through not
only the tabs but portions of the part outline that did not cut completely through the sheet. Turn the
carrier sheet over and cut from the backside to release the part without damage. Care must be taken
when cutting out parts due to the thickness of plywood which in some cases is very thin to maintain
proper scale.
Laser cut parts: There are plywood laser cut parts and laser cutting burns through the plywood leaving
charred surfaces. The charred surface sometimes does not make good strong glue joints. It is
recommended to sand or scrape away the loose char before gluing. It is not necessary to remove all
the char, unless a finished wood surface is required. In some cases simply scraping with the back edge
of a # 11 blade is sufficient. The use of a small sanding drum in a rotary tool with a light touch would
work best on the thicker plywood edges.
Britannia Metal Parts: There are many Britannia (white metal) parts in this kit. First, remove any mold
joint flash with a #11 hobby blade using the back edge as a scraper, then file or sand with fine sanding
stick or sandpaper. Important: Always dry fit parts together first to determine if holes need to be
drilled further or if mating surfaces are flat to each other. Once parts have been dry fitted wash

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parts in dishwashing liquid and warm water to remove traces of mold release agent and body oils your
fingers may deposit. Allow the parts to dry thoroughly before applying primer and painting. Try to avoid
painting, whenever possible, surfaces to be glued together, or locating pins that insert into holes. Due
to the metal casting process used and shipping; some deformed parts may be received, or filled in
holes that will have to be drilled. Parts can be straightened by gently and slowly reforming with your
fingers. Check with the plans and photographs to verify the reforming of the part(s); every effort was
made to reproduce the parts accurately but some deforming may occur during de-molding or shipping
due to the weight of the parts themselves.
Photo Etched Parts: An etched aluminum sheet of parts is included in the kit. Care must be used to
cut these parts from the carrier sheet using the tip of a hobby knife blade on a hard surface like steel or
use small scissors/snips. Cut tabs will need to be filed smooth using a fine needle file. The “Eindecker
E-IV” on the aluminum sheet can be used to make a nameplate if desired.
Glues: Super glues, such as Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce quick adhesion. For most applications, the
medium viscosity, gap-filling variety is best allowing a little time for final positioning. The thin type is
recommended for filling a narrow crack, wicking into laminated tight joints and seizing thread ends to
make “needle” points. These instructions will refer to super glues as CA (cyanoacrylite). For Basswood
and Plywood it is best to use Yellow Wood glue like Titebond which is easier to sand than CA which
hardens the plywood. Epoxy glue is highly recommended for gluing metal cast engine parts some of
which are heavy. The five minute setting type is sufficient for this build. Scoring mating metal joint
surfaces with the tip of a hobby knife in a cross hatch pattern will increase the strength of the glue
joints. Excess glue can be cleaned carefully with acetone on a Q-tip, but take care not to loosen the
glued joint.
Building Tips and Suggestions before Starting to Build
Read assembly instructions, study the pictures and review the plans to understand and familiarize
yourself with various parts and components and how they relate to each other.
Check parts list to make sure you have all the kit parts listed.
Verify that you have all the tools and materials needed to start the build. See the materials list and
suggested tool list on the next page. A variety of rubber bands is essential to assemble the fuselage.
Try to follow the suggested build sequence outlined in the assembly instructions.
Pay attention to steps that are BOLD face type or underlined. These are critical actions to avoid
problems with assembly or when extra care is needed. Parts are Capitalized and Boldface on purpose
for emphasis and identification when reading and easy reference. Cast white metal parts in some cases
are delicate due to replicating in scale. Extra care and caution is required when cleaning, filing parting
lines and adjusting to dry fit.
Prime, paint and dry fit all cast parts prior to assembling. Keep primer and paint to a minimum to retain
fine details. When dry fitting parts if excess paint is an issue scrap off paint as needed for a good fit.
Keep in mind it is better to have two or three light coats rather than one thick coat of paint. Fill casting
voids with putty if required and then sand and prime before painting.
Take your time, learn and enjoy the build process as much as the finished model.
Building Strategy: Due to the number of laser cut parts in the kit for the wings; it is recommended to
clean, file, dry fit then paint the wood once the wings are assembled.

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The following instructions will address some sub-assemblies of components to be worked on and then
set aside for later assembly.
Paint all the cast metal parts first before starting to assemble. Paint brass components once assembled
to painted parts to match during the build process.
Additional materials that will be needed:
Medium CA –Small Bottle
Thin CA –Small Bottle
1 small bottle of Yellow Glue.
1 small bottle of White Glue.
Fine sand paper or sanding sticks.
1 Bottle MS 4821 Deck House Light
1 Bottle MS4962 Aluminum
1 Bottle MS 4970 Copper
1 Bottle MS 4839 Primer
1 Bottle MS4973 Pre-stain Wood Conditioner
1 Bottle MS 4823 Pearl Gray
1 Bottle MS 4802 Gun Carriage Red
1 Bottle MS 4830 Hull Spar Black
1 Bottle MS 4975 English Oak
1 Bottle MS 4961 Brass
1 Bottle MS 4972 Clear Satin
#2 and #7 Round paint brushes.
10/0 spotter paint brush for touch up.
1/2” Flat brush (for cleaning and
dusting)
Small can of Acetone–clean/ debond
glue.
Small pins/ T-pins
A variety of flat rubber bands.
Suggested tool list:
Hobby knife blade holder.
#11 blades - 12- 18 as needed. 1 chisel blade.
Hobby Knife Saw Blade
Small needle nose pliers.
Small end cutters.
Tweezers –straight and bent.
Medium size Mill Bastard file.
Needle files. Flat , Half Round, and Square
ScotchBrite pad- Fine and Medium.
Sanding paper/stick –80,100,120,220 grits.
Set of small reams to clean holes.
Small Square.
Several round toothpicks.
Round flat drift punch.
Wax paper.
Masking tape- automotive low tack
Drill Bits 1/32”; 3/64”;1/16”; 1/4:”
Pin vise for drill bits.
X –Y table for drill press.
Mechanical Pencil .05 lead sizes.
Small 4” bar clamps –2 to 4
Metal spring clamps - 10 to 12
Small Plastic clamps –10 to 12
Small package of Clothes pins.
1 Stainless steel pick –bent ends.
The Materials List identifying the parts supplied in the kit is a separate document to this manual. Use
plan sheet “Parts Layout and Color Guide” to check for parts as well as the colors to paint them.
Parts: The very first step is to paint all the cast metal parts their respective colors using the Color
Guide Plan Sheet. This will help to better understand the parts and how they relate to each other; do

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any adjustments that are needed and remember to bend very slowly to relieve any stress in the parts
and avoid breaking the part. It will also enable an inventory to make sure that there are no missing
parts. For this instruction manual all parts were painted using Model Expo paints and brush painted.
Some builders may prefer other brands and spaying with airbrush rather than by hand.
Instruments:
Carefully cut out the printed instrument faces and glue them in place to the correct painted cast metal
instrument bezels. Note that the two “Axial” labels will go on the propeller once it is carved. Extra
detail: Mix some 5 epoxy and add to the instrument face while level, this must be done quickly before
the epoxy starts to set. Better to do in two groups of bezels and this will form lenses for the instruments.
There is a detailed explanation further on in these instructions to do the Instrument Lenses read
ahead to locate. Building all the Instruments ahead of time is recommended and will assure ample
drying time for the epoxy lenses to set before handling. See the pictures below.
Fuselage Building Fixture:
Remove the 1/8” plywood parts required to assemble the Fuselage Building Fixture; laser cut parts
sheets “H” and “I” and clean the char from all the edges. A suggestion is to paint the edges with Wood
Conditioner to stabilize the char from transfer while handling the fixture during the build assembly.
Next using the 1/16” x 3/16” x5” wood strip cut five (5) spacers 3/4” long and glue them to the Stations
in places marked “Spacer” making sure the top edges of the spacers align with the top of the laser cut
lines on the Stations. This alignment of the spacers is critical.
Once the Stations are ready, assemble the Building Fixture indexing the Stations in proper marked
sequence to each other. Note do not glue the Station parts 2 to 7 in place and note that the Building
Fixture does taper narrowing from rear to front. See picture on the next page to the left with assembled
parts. With the Stations in place, insert the 1/8” diameter x11” Brass Tube down the center through
the holes in the Stations to stabilize the Building Fixture. This will help greatly when handling during
assembly.

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Turnbuckles:
There are many Turnbuckles to be used for this build. Each Turnbuckle should be cleaned; holes
drilled with 1/32” (#67) drill bit if necessary then primed and painted Brass. Using a needle threader
insert it into a Turnbuckle hole then index a thread loop into the threader and pull the loop back
through the Turnbuckle hole just to clear the hole. Now with tweezers inserted through the loop pull
the two ends of the thread back through the loop and seize the Turnbuckle pulling the ends to tighten;
once tight on the Turnbuckle tie a half hitch and add a drop of thin CA on the short thread end and pull
the long thread to have the glue set straight. When the glue has set cut off the short end at the knot.
Repeat the process on the other end of the Turnbuckle. Tie enough Turnbuckles for each section of
the build as needed. Tip: On the needle threader crimp tighter the junction of the wire with the
aluminum handle using pliers to help eliminate the wire being pulled out of the handle.
Fuselage:
Now locate the nine (9) cast parts and three (3) brass tubes needed to assemble the cockpit area of the
Fuselage. The cast parts are the Cockpit Area Side Frames (2 - Left and right); upper rear Seat
Cross Frame; Landing Gear Bracket; lower Rear Pivot Brace; forward upper and lower Fuselage
Attachment Cross Members (2); Tachometer; Hand Pump. The following Brass tubes: Wing Spar
Braces (2) 3/32” x 1- 9/16”; Lower Center Cross Frame (1) 1/16” x 1- 21/32”.

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Tie the ten (10) Turnbuckles to the Side Frames as seen in the picture below. Note that all
Turnbuckles are in the upper and lower corners towards the front of the plane. This will also apply to
all the fuselage stations as well. Now glue the painted Hand Pump to the right Side Frame at the two
(2) location holes for the pins on the Hand Pump. The Tachometer can also be glued in place on the
left Side Frame in the location hole with a slight angle up.
TIP: Locate the painted Black Joystick Control Rod and Rear Pivot Brace and test fit the Rod shaft
into the center hole in the Brace; the Rod shaft must be able to move freely through the hole when
painted. If it does not ream/enlarge the hole until it does; this is much easier to do now than later.
Add the two painted (2) Wing Spar Braces to the pins on the inside of the Wing Spar Boxes. Dry fit
the Braces first with the Side Frames on a flat surface and square to the Side Frames. Now carefully
insert the assembly into the Building Fixture and hold together with rubber bands as seen in the
picture above. Now dry fit the following parts by carefully indexing them into their locations working from
the center out. First the Lower Center Frame; Landing Gear Bracket; Seat Cross Frame; Rear Pivot
Brace; upper Attachment Cross Member and finally the lower Attachment Cross Member which
indexes into the Landing Gear Bracket as seen in the picture below. Note that some parts may need
adjustment or straightening to fit properly. Once all parts are dry fitted and held in place with rubber
bands; then square up the assembly and glue all connections using ample thin CA and allow the
assembly glue joints to set, about an hour or longer should work. Start with gluing the Wing Braces
first to set the assembly square; then the rest of the joints.

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While waiting for the assembly glue to set; file the corner shoulders of the five (5) fuselage Stations (3
to 7) flush to the frame structures on both sides for a more authentic detail. See picture on the previous
page. Due to metal casting limitations it was necessary to add the shoulders to assure proper filling of
the corners. Once filed smooth to match the frame, touch up the paint.
Now rig the five (5) Fuselage Stations with Turnbuckles and try to equalize the Turnbuckles from the
two corners as seen in the picture below.
Using rubber bands add the five (5) Stations (3 to 7) to the front side of the Building Fixture locations
making sure the Stations are centered and resting level on the Spacers. The rubber bands must hold
the Stations tightly in place. See the picture above.
Now glue in place the four (4) 3/32” x 3/4” brass tube Fuselage Joiners to the rear ends of the Side
Frames making sure they are completely seated against the Side Frames. These joints are per the
original design.
Add the Rudder Pivot cast metal part to the rear end of the Building Fixture indexing it onto the
quarter rounds and hold it in place using a rubber band as seen in the picture on the next page. The
Rudder Pivot must be centered and plumb vertically. The Rudder will index through the hole so it can
be inserted to check.
Next, dry fit the four (4) brass tube Fuselage Stringers 1/16” x 10- 3/4” inserting them one at a time
starting with the bottom two (2) and then the top two (2) into the Fuselage Joiners, onto all the Station
corners and finally the Rudder Pivot. Carefully bend the Fuselage Stringers to relieve any stress and
ideally the Fuselage Stringers should be able to rest in place between the Fuselage Joiners and the
Rudder Pivot. See the pictures on the next page.

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Next using binding wire, seize the Fuselage Stringers in place in front of each Station diagonally
twisting the wire to tighten in place on the Station corners. Start at the rear and move forward as seen
in the picture below. Once all the Fuselage Stringers are seized and adjusted check the Rudder Pivot
to be on center and vertically plumb then glue all the joints and allow the glue to set completely. See
picture below.
Once the glue has set completely on all the stringer joints slowly remove the 1/8” brass tube Stabilizer
from the Stations and then the two (2) sides of the Building Fixture down from the wood Stations.
See the picture on the next page. Next cut all the Station rubber bands and carefully remove the
Stations by turning them diagonally and down leaving only the Fuselage with the binding wires still in
place for now. Check all joints to make sure they are tight and still glued securely. If in doubt glue the
joints again.

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Now with the binding wires still in place cut away the extended support from the Rudder Pivot using a
jeweler’s saw and file and sand smooth the saw cuts to match the contour of the Fuselage frame
structure as seen in the picture below. These extensions were cast in place to facilitate correct
alignment of the Fuselage when building.
Now cut away and remove the binding wires with small snips taking care not to snag the Stringers.
Add the rigged turnbuckles to all the Fuselage sides, tops and bottoms starting at the rear and up to
Station 3. The bay between 3 and 2 must be left open to add the Main Gas Tank. See picture above
and on the next page