Model shipways Ma1040 User manual

Instruction Manual

Modeling the Fokker Dr.1, Tri-Plane

Instruction Manual & Prototype by Dr. David G. Ullman, 2013

Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. dba Model Expo –Hollywood, Florida

Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc.

http://www.modelexpo-online.com

Model Airways Kit No. MA1040

Building the Fokker Dr.1, Tri-Plane

Contents

Technical Details........................................................................................................................ 5

History ....................................................................................................................................... 5

Before you Begin ....................................................................................................................... 5

Working with the Sheets and parts............................................................................................. 6

A. Preparing cast parts..................................................................................................... 6

B. Cleaning laser cut parts ............................................................................................... 7

C. Preparing stock wooden parts...................................................................................... 7

D. Glue............................................................................................................................. 7

E. Part Number Scheme .................................................................................................. 7

STAGE 1: BUILDING THE WINGS............................................................................................ 8

A. The Bottom Wing......................................................................................................... 8

1. Main spar ................................................................................................................. 9

2. Wing ribs.................................................................................................................. 9

3. Wing Tips................................................................................................................10

4. Leading Edge..........................................................................................................10

5. Final wing details.....................................................................................................11

B. The Middle Wing.........................................................................................................13

C. The Top Wing.............................................................................................................14

1. Top Wing Basic Structure........................................................................................15

2. Ailerons...................................................................................................................16

3. Aileron pulleys.........................................................................................................17

Stage 2: Building the Fuselage ................................................................................................18

A. The Construction Jig...................................................................................................18

B. The Basic Fuselage....................................................................................................19

1. Preparing the cast parts ..........................................................................................19

2. Preparing the Frames..............................................................................................19

3. Assemble the engine mount....................................................................................20

4. Assemble the front of the fuselage ..........................................................................21

5. Load the Jig.............................................................................................................22

6. Preparing the stringers............................................................................................23

7. Final Assembly jig ...................................................................................................24

8. Installing the controls...............................................................................................24

9. Installing the Tail Skid..............................................................................................27

Stage 3: Building the Tail Surfaces ...........................................................................................27

A. Stabilizer.....................................................................................................................27

B. Elevator ......................................................................................................................28

C. Rudder........................................................................................................................29

D. Connecting the controls ..............................................................................................30

E. Fuselage bracing ........................................................................................................31

F. Step and Lift Handles..................................................................................................31

Stage 4: Building the Landing Gear...........................................................................................31

Stage 5: Building the Oberursel Engine and Propeller...............................................................33

A. The Oberursel Engine.................................................................................................33

B. Propeller.....................................................................................................................35

Stage 6: Building the Cockpit and Connecting the Controls to the Engine.................................36

A. Engine connections and installation............................................................................37

B. Spent Ammo Can .......................................................................................................38

C. Control yoke................................................................................................................38

D. Ammo can and Tachometer........................................................................................39

E. Magnetos....................................................................................................................39

F. Fuel/air management..................................................................................................40

G. Seat............................................................................................................................40

H. Final Cockpit Details ...................................................................................................41

Stage 7: Final Assembly of the Model.......................................................................................41

A. Spandau Machine Guns .............................................................................................41

B. Installing the lower and middle wings..........................................................................42

C. Wing Struts.................................................................................................................42

D. Adding the Landing Gear............................................................................................43

E. Finishing the Fuselage................................................................................................43

1. Turtle deck ..............................................................................................................43

2. Fuselage metal skin ................................................................................................43

3. Coaming and padding .............................................................................................44

4. Machine guns..........................................................................................................44

5. Cheeks....................................................................................................................44

F. Mounting the Top Wing...............................................................................................45

G. Stringing the Aileron Cables........................................................................................45

H. Cowl..................................................................................................................45

Bibliography ................................................................................................................46

Technical Details

Scale 1:16,

Length 14 1/8”

Span 17 3/4”

Height 7 1/4”

Kit design, Sheets, instructions, and prototype model by David G. Ullman, 2013

History

The Fokker Dr.1, Tri-Plane is probably the most famous fighter of WWI. It is known as the plane

flown by Manfred von Richthofen, the Red Baron, who is credited with 80 victories before he

himself was shot down and killed. Von Richthofen’s first victory came in September 1916. A

majority of his early victories were in various models of the Albatros (the Albatros D.Va is also a

Model Airways kit). He only flew the Dr.1 from September 1917 until his death in April 1918,

accounting for the last 20 of his kills.

In July 1917 the German military signed an agreement with Anthony Fokker, the Dutch airplane

designer, for building 20 Tri-planes. The first of the 320 Tri-planes built entered service in

August 1917 and the last ones taken out of service in June 1918. About 280 were destroyed in

combat and many were also lost during training. It was a hard airplane to fly, but those who

mastered it were deadly. By the end of the war only about 20 Dr.1s remained. Of these, two

survived until WWII in German museums. They were lost during that war. Thus, there are no

original Dr.1s, nor are there a complete set of drawings.

The Dr.1 was small airplane, 18’ 11’’ (5.77m) long with a span of only 23’ 7” (7.19m). Its empty

weight was a mere 895lb (405 kg). It was powered by many engines, primarily the Oberursel

UR II engine which was a copy of the French LeRhone type 9Ja. This was a rotary with 9

cylinders that spun around the stationary crankshaft producing 110 hp (84kw). What made the

Dr.1. such a good fighter was that it could climb to 3000 ft (about 1000m) in less than 3 minutes.

It had a ceiling of 19,000 ft (over 6000 m) and it was highly maneuverable with a very high roll

rate. It was difficult to fly and only the best pilots could manage it. Those that did tame it liked

it and were effective with it. The Dr.1 appeared too late in the war to have much effect on its

outcome.

One challenge designing this kit is the lack of original Dr.1’s or complete drawings of their parts.

Every Dr.1 seen at an air show or in museum is a replica built from one of a number of sets of

drawings that have been developed from the pieces and photographs that survive. Every effort

has been made to develop a kit that is as accurate and as realistically possible based on this

material.

Before you Begin

Suggested tool list:

Xacto blade holder and #11 blades

Single edged razor blades

Small needle nose pliers

Small end cutters

Small diagonal cutters

Plato Model 170 Shears (optional, but good for removing photo etched parts).

Disposable materials that will be needed:

Cyanoacrylate adhesive

Cyanoacrylate un-cure

Cyanoacrylate insta-set (accelerator)

Liquid Nails Metal Projects LN-203 or

other 5 minute epoxy (LN-203 is

especially good on the materials in this

kit)

Disposable fingernail files - fine

220-320 sand paper

Paper towels

Clothespins

Toothpicks

Cotton swabs

Masking tape- low tack

Small touch-up paint brushes

Small rubber bands

Paint

In general water based paints (i.e. Acrylics) do not stick well to the metal used in this kit. It is

suggested that only enamels be used. Further, clean (with soap) and sand all metal surfaces to

be painted with very fine sandpaper or Scotch-Brite™.

Semi-gloss or matte spray finish

German Silver Metallic, Model Master Custom Spray Enamel, 2914 (this closely

matches the casting’s color.

Italian Red, Model Master Custom Spray Enamel, 2919

Semi-gloss black

Dark gray

Working with the Sheets and parts

There are five sheets of drawings that support this instruction manual:

Sheet A: General side view and top view of the model with sections through the front of

the fuselage

Sheet B: Front view and fuselage details

Sheet C: Wing Layouts

Sheet D: Layout of tail surfaces, ailerons and landing gear; and various other details

Sheet E: Engine Details

Some general suggestions:

Copy the wing and other surface layouts if you want to preserve the original Sheets.

Cut tubing by rolling it under a blade (it can be a used one as it doesn’t have to be real

sharp). After it is well creased, the tube can be snapped off. Make it slightly too long

and file off the deformation made by the blade.

Always wash and sand all metal parts before you glue to them or the glue won’t stick

very well. Epoxy works best on metal.

Put puddles of glue on scrap paper and apply with toothpicks. Both are cheap. Never

touch the bottle to the model.

A. Preparing cast parts

Most parts are cast from Britannia a common casting metal that is very similar to pewter. The

fuselage parts are cast in zinc as it is stiffer than Britannia. Britannia can be easily trimmed with

a hobby knife. When gluing these metals, wash and clean the surface with Scotch-Brite or fine

sand paper. They can be painted with any common, oil based hobby paint.

There are over 50 turnbuckles on the Dr.1, mainly in the fuselage. To make rigging easier, drill

out each end of each turnbuckle with a 1/32” drill (.9 mm).

B. Cleaning laser cut parts

Laser cutting is a great process for making very accurate basswood and plywood parts that fit

together well. The downside is that it leaves a char or ash residue that can be easily spread by

touching and discolor your finish. Best is to wipe it off before removing parts from the sheet with

a paper towel. If it won’t wipe off, use very fine (320) sandpaper. When removing a part from

the sheet do the same to the edges. Best to lay a paper towel on the work surface and draw the

part edge across it repeatedly, then lightly sand the edge. Be sure to throw away paper towels

and sandpaper often as the black residue will get on other parts. Make sure you keep your

hands clean or your fingers may track the char to the surface of the parts.

C. Preparing stock wooden parts

Sand strips of wood with 220 or extra fine sandpaper prior to using.

D. Glue

Glue wood parts with cyanoacrylate (super glue). To apply, put some drops on a paper pad

and use toothpicks to apply to the model. When the material on the pad gets stiff or hardens,

tear off top layer of pad and work from fresh sheet.

Best is to use epoxy for metal parts. Liquid Nails Metal Projects LN-203 or other 5 minute

epoxy is best. Mix small batches on paper with a toothpick and apply. LN-203 comes in dual

syringe that ensures the proper ratio.

NOTE: BEFORE GLUING ANY METAL PARTS WASH AND ROUGHEN THE SURFACE

WITH A FILE OF FINE SANDPAPER.

E. Part Number Scheme

All parts have two letters followed by a number. The first letter signifies the assembly on the

airplane: E = Engine

F = Fuselage

L = Landing gear

T = Tail

W = Wings

This second letter signifies the manufacturing process used to make the part:

C = Cast metal

M = Metal bar or tube

O = Other miscellaneous parts

P = Photo etched metal

S = Wood strips

W = Wood (laser cut)

The one or two digit number is an identifier which is not necessarily continuous. For stock parts,

the Model Airways standard stock number is also given. This is of the form WPXXXX.

STAGE 1: BUILDING THE WINGS

Layout drawings for all three wings are on Sheet C. Instructions for the Bottom Wing are

detailed first. The Mid and Upper wings are very similar in construction to the Bottom Wing and

only details that differ from it are covered.

Anthony Fokker and his chief designer, Reinhold Platz, used a single box beam as the spar in

each of the wings. These are so rigid that they allowed them to use no external wire bracing on

the wings, lowering the aerodynamic drag. The structure used in this kit closely follows that

used by Platz. The directions describe how to make one half. Both sides are identical and

fastened together only at the spar as described in the directions.

A. The Bottom Wing

Bottom Wing Parts List

Part #

Name

Count

Material

WW1a

Bottom wing spar: top

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW1b

Bottom wing spar: bottom

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW2

Bottom wing spar front

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW3

Bottom wing spar rear

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW4

Wing rib

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW5

Bottom/mid tip rib

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW6

Bottom/mid tip rib doublers

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW7

Bottom/mid wing tip

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW8

Bottom wing leading edge

1/64 laser cut plywood

WW9

Spar connector

1/32 laser cut plywood

WP3726

Rib stiffener

stock

1/64” x 1/16” (1.6 x .4 mm)

WP3600

Rear spar

stock

.031” square (1 x 1 mm)

WP2527

Rib and leading edge bracing

tape

stock

1/16 in white Ribbon

WP3600

Trailing edge brace

stock

.031” square (1 x 1mm)

WP498

Trailing edge

stock

.015” dia wire (0.4mm)

WP3607

Spar spacer and tip braces

stock

1/32” x 1/4” (.8 x 6 mm)

WP3726

Rib caps

stock

1/64” x 1/16” (1.6 x 0.4 mm)

WP3658

Leading edge mold 1

stock

¼ x 3/4 x 12” (6.4 x 19 x 304 mm)

WP104K

Leading edge mold 2

stock

3/16” Al rod 10” long (5 x 254mm)

WP3625

Tip skid

stock

3/32” square (2.4 x2.4 mm)

WP3

Rear tip skid mount

.010” (,25 mm) Photo etched Al

Figure 1.1 The Complete Bottom Wing

1. Main spar

The main spar on the Dr.1 is essentially a box-beam. The top and bottom members have slots

facing forward to receive the forward half of the ribs. The difference between the top (WW1a)

and bottom (WW1b) is that the slot for the root rib is canted out at the bottom to clear the

landing gear, thus the slot in the bottom is further outboard. To build this spar cut .40 inch

(10mm) long spacers from 1/32 x 1/4 inch (.8 x 6 mm) and glue at three positions along spar

bottom (Two shown in Figure 1.2). Their exact locations are not critical as they only act to

provide guides to keep the front and rear square to the bottom while gluing them in place, but

keep the inboard spacer outboard of the first rib as shown to the left in the figure. Before gluing

ensure that the ribs fit in the slots and lightly sand the slots as needed.

Glue the spar front (WW2) and rear (WW3) to the bottom making sure the slots are aligned (See

Figure 1.2). The rear spar notches are offset for the root rib so it is canted out at the bottom to

clear the landing gear strut. Glue on the top. Mark inside the spar to note the root relative to

the tip. Check that the ribs fit in the slots and that the root rib is canted outward at the bottom.

Figure 1.2 Bottom Wing Spar Details

2. Wing ribs

There are eight ribs (WW4) on

each side of the bottom wing,

not counting the tip rib (WW5).

Each rib (except the root rib) has

stiffeners on both sides as

shown in Figure 1.3. These are

cut from the 1/16 x1/64 inch (1.6

x .4 mm) strips. On the root rib

only put stiffeners on the

outboard side. Figure 1.3 Wing Rib Details

The easy way to add the stiffeners is before the ribs

are removed from the sheet as show in the

photograph, Figure 1.4. Glue strips of stiffener to

both sides of the ribs and then cut on the laser cut

lines, on both sides, to free the ribs from the Sheet.

Then clean off the carbon residue and sand the

stiffeners to match the rib out line as needed.

Figure 1.4 Rib Stiffener Details

Pin the spar to the drawing with 1/64 inch

(.4mm) spacers underneath as shown in

Figure 1.5. The wing ribs fit in spar slots.

When gluing, be sure the rear ribs touch the

building surface at the trailing edge and the

front ribs do so at the lowest point on the

leading edge. Do not worry that the ribs do

not reach all the way to the trailing edge on

the drawing. The cap strips will make up

this difference.

3. Wing Tips

The tip rib assembly is made up of three laser cut parts: the Tip Rib (WW5), Tip Rib Doubler

(WW6) and Wing Tip (WW7); and some custom fit Tip Braces as shown in Figure 1.6. First,

glue the Doubler (WW6) to the Tip Rib (WW5) and these to the end of the spar. Then, glue the

Wing Tip (WW7) to the Tip Rib, warping it as shown in the figure and on Sheet C. A simple way

to do this is to glue the front quarter first, and after it dries pull the tip down carefully and glue it

in place. Add the Tip Braces cut form 1/32 x 1/8 inch (.8 x 3 mm) stock as shown.

Figure 1.6 Wing Tip Details

4. Leading Edge

The leading edge (WW8) is made from 1/64 inch (.4mm) laser cut plywood. The actual Dr1

had a warped plywood leading edge as is used here. To prepare each leading edge (six in all

for the three wings) first make a jig from the supplied piece 1/4 x 3/4 inch (6 x 18mm) basswood,

a 3/16 inch (5mm) rod and some scrap 1/64 inch (.4mm) material. Glue together as shown in

Figure 1.7 leaving a 1/64 x 1/8 inch (.4 x 3.2mm) slot as shown to hold the bottom of the leading

edge. Then each leading edge can be formed by soaking the blank for at least ½ hour in water

then slipping the straight edge of the blank in the slot and slowly working the Sheet around the

bar, carefully bending it and clamping with clothes pins or small clamps as shown in Figure 1.8.

Alternately, you can take two pieces of wood, 9” long to bridge the entire length of the leading

edge and clamp these to get a more even pressure. Be very careful forming the plywood and

work it around the rod slowly or it may break. Rolling it on the work surface is also helpful.

Figure 1.5 Building the Wing Detail

You may want to practice with some scrap, bending parallel to the grain of the outer layers of

the plywood. Let it dry overnight.. Either glue in place or leave it in the jig as it may slowly

uncurl if left un-glued for too long. Be careful to make a left and a right leading edge.

Figures 1.7 Leading Edge Jig

Figure 1.8 Leading Edge Clamped on Jig Figure 1.9 Leading Edge Gluing Detail

Glue the leading edge to the spar/rib structure. First, remove the structure from the building

board. Glue the top (the Vee edge) of the leading edge to the top of the spar as shown in Figure

1.9. The leading edge tabs should only overlap about 1/32 of an inch (.8 mm). Be sure each

rib aligns with the Vee notches as shown. Best to start gluing at the two ends and, once you are

sure of the alignment, glue all the other leading edge tabs to the spar. Then glue the bottom of

the leading edge to the ribs being sure the leading edge is pulled tight against them. Clothes

pins help here. Best to start gluing at the middle ribs and work outward.

While the wing is off the building board sight down the ribs and make sure they are all aligned.

Trim the leading edge to match the root rib.

5. Final wing details

5.a. Bottom rib caps: Each rib has a 1/64 x 1/16 inch (.4 x 1.6 mm) cap on the top and the

bottom. Begin with the bottom caps and glue them first at the back of the leading edge. When

set, glue them along the remainder of the rib. Leave the bottom caps about 1/8 too long when

compared to the trailing edge length seen on the layout drawing. Glue on the root rib’s cap

strips so they only extend outboard (inboard flush with the rib).

5.b. Trailing Edge: The bottom cap strips provides a platform for the attachment of the trailing

edge wire. This assures uniform mounting and a straight trailing edge. Glue .015 inch (.4mm)

wire to each rib. Trim the bottom cap strips flush with the rear of the trailing edge.

5.c. Top rib caps: Add the top cap strips. You will have to bevel them slightly at the front to

mate with the leading edge. Trim even with the trailing edge. Sand the front top to be plane

with the leading edge with very fine sand paper. This should be minimal and be careful not to

sand the leading edge plywood as the top veneer is very thin.

5.d. Rear spar:The Rear Spar is made of .040 inch (1mm) square stock cut to length to fit

between each rib. It is best to reattach the wing structure to the drawing and cut some 1/64 inch

(.4mm) spacers from scrap to hold the spar pieces the correct distance off of the building board.

Glue the spar pieces in place as shown on Sheet C. Don’t glue on the trailing edge braces quite

yet.

5.e. Trailing edge braces: At the root and tip there is an angled brace (shown on Sheet C) that

holds the trailing edge taught. They are made of

.040 inch (1 mm) square stock. Cut and glue into

position from the rear spar to the trailing edge of the

root and tip ribs.

5.f. First finish: Finish the wing with a couple of thin

coats of clear semi-gloss or matte spray before

doing the next steps.

5.g. Lower leading edge bracing: On the original

Dr1, the lower lip of the leading edge is tied to the

spar with pieces of tape, woven material much like a

wide ribbon. On this model 1/16 inch ribbon is

used. Cut pieces of ribbon to 3/8” inch (10 mm)

long or slightly longer. Glue them on as shown in

Figure 1.10 between each pair of ribs.

5.h. Rib Twist Bracing: To keep the thin ribs from twisting, ribbon is woven between them as

shown in Figures 1.1 and 1.10. Rib twist bracing is made from the same ribbon as the Lower

Leading Edge Bracing. Best to cut a single length (about 18 inches (46cm long), glue one end

directly over the rib stiffener on the root rib (either on top or bottom) and then weave it through

to the tip. Pull it taught, making sure it is straight and then glue to each rib. Then, wrap the

ribbon around the tip and follow the same procedure back to the root. Coat both the leading

edge bracing and the rib twist bracing with clear finish or thin cyanoacrylate.

5.i. Connect the two wing halves together: Ensure that the ends of the spars are flush and

aligned. Make sure the root ribs are at least 1.77 in (44mm) apart at spar. Insert and glue the

Spar Connectors (WW9) to the front and rear of either wing. Then slide the other wing on and

glue in place.

5.j. Tip skid: The lower wing has an iconic tip skid. This is made from 3/32 square (2.4 mm)

stock 2” (50mm) long. Sand to shape. Paint dark brown.

Figure 1.10 Rib and Leading Edge

Bracing

Paint the Rear Tip Skid Mount (WP3) black and wrap it around the skid, twist it 90deg and glue

to the back of the spar just inboard of the tip rib. Trim to length.

Figure 1.11 Tip skid detail

5.k. Final Finish: Finish the wing with a couple of thin coats of clear semi-gloss or matte spray

being sure that the ribbon material is well wetted.

B. The Middle Wing

Middle Wing Parts List

Part #

Name

Count

Material

WW10

Middle wing spar bottom/top

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW11

Middle wing spar front

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW12

Middle wing spar rear

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW4

Wing rib

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW13

Middle root rib

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW5

Bottom/middle tip rib

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW6

Bottom/middle tip rib doubler

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW7

Bottom/middle wing tip

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW9

Spar connecter

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW14

Middle wing leading edge

1/64 laser cut plywood

WW15

Middle wing root trailing edge

1/32 laser cut plywood

WP3726

Rib stiffener

stock

1/64” x 1/16” (1.6 x .4 mm)

WP3600

Rear spar

stock

.031” square (1 x 1 mm)

WP2527

Rib and leading edge bracing

tape

stock

1/16 in white Ribbon

WP3600

Trailing edge brace

stock

.040” square (1 x 1mm)

WP498

Trailing edge

stock

.015” dia wire (0.4mm)

WP3607

Spar spacer and tip braces

stock

1/32” x 1/4” (.8 x 6 mm)

WP3726

Rib caps

stock

1/64” x 1/16” (1.6 x .4 mm)

Figure 1.12 Middle Wing Completed

The Middle Wing is constructed the same as the Lower Wing, with the following exceptions:

The spar top and bottom are the same (WW10) and the middle wing front is WW11 and

rear is WW12. Be sure when building the spars that the slots in the Spar Rear (WW12)

are oriented correctly. Also, be sure to build a left and right spar.

The rear part of the Root Rib, WW13, is canted outward at the top to clear the Top Wing

Strut (Figure 1.12).

The inboard notch in the trailing edge, WW15 is glued to the root and first rib as in

Figure 1.13. This notch was to allow the pilot to see forward below the nose, essential in

a dog-fight.

Be sure to make a left and right leading edge (WW13).

Figure 1.13 Middle Wing Root Detail

C. The Top Wing

The Top Wing is similar to the other wings but has ailerons.

Top Wing Parts List

Part #

Name

Count

Material

WW16

Top wing spar bottom/top

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW17

Top wing spar front

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW18

Top wing spar rear

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW4

Wing rib

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW19

Top outer wing rib

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW20

Top tip rib

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW21

Top tip rib doubler

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW22

Top wing tip

1/32 laser cut plywood

WW23

Top wing leading edge

1/64 laser cut plywood

WW9

Spar connector

1/32 laser cut plywood

WP3629

Aileron spar

stock

3/32 x 1/4 (2.4 x 6.4mm)

WW24

Aileron spar braces

1/64 laser cut plywood

WW25

Aileron center spar braces

1/64 laser cut plywood

Figure 1.14 Complete Top Wing without Ailerons

1. Top Wing Basic Structure

The top wing basic structure is the same as the other two wings with the following exceptions:

The spar top and bottom are the same (WW16) and the top wing front is WW17 and rear

is WW18. Be sure when building the spars that the slots in the Spar Rear (WW12) are

oriented correctly matching the top and bottom. Also, be sure to build a left and right

spar.

On each half, the 4 inner most ribs (WW4) are the same as on the other wings. The 6

outer ribs (WW19) and the tip ribs (WW20 –22) are shortened to leave room for the

ailerons as shown in Figure 1.14.

The top wing leading edge is WW23.

The Aileron Spar is made from 3/32 x 1/4 inch (2.4 x 6mm) stock carved as shown Sheet

D. Easy way to carve this is to wrap fine sandpaper around a ¼” (6mm) rod. While

building the Top Wing put 1/64” (.4mm) spacers under this spar.

The Aileron Spar Braces (WW24) and the Aileron Center Spar Braces (WW25) are

added at each end and center of the spar before adding the cap strips as shown in

Figure 1.15 and on Sheet C. Position them so they align with the cap strips.

The rib twist bracing (ribbon) can be added in one piece starting at the bottom

center and tacking at the tips until you are sure it is well aligned.

Then go back with thin cyanoacrylate and wick it through each place it is in

contact with a cap strip. Finish with clear finish or thin cyanoacrylate.

Figure 1.15 Tip section of top wing

2. Ailerons

Part #

Name

Count

Material

WP127K

Aileron front spar

stock

1/8” (3m) Brass tube

WP160K

Aileron rear spar

stock

1/32” (.8 mm) Brass rod

WP4

Aileron root rib