Model Shipways Newsboy User manual

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2108
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, Florida
Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. • www.modelexpo-online.com
Technical Characteristics
Scale: 1/8" = 1 ft.
Overall Length: 21-3/8"; Hull Length: 15-1/4"
Width: 8" (width of lower yard); Hull Beam: 3-3/8""
Height: 15-3/8" (top of main mast to bottom of keel)
M ODELING T HE
N EWSBOY
✦
B RIGANTINE , 1854
✦
M ODELING T HE
N EWSBOY
✦
B RIGANTINE , 1854
✦
Instructions prepared by Ben Lankford
Model prototype by Bob Schott ©2006, Model Shipways, Inc.

HISTORY
2
HISTORY
The Newsboy was designed by Dennison J. Lawlor of Chelsie, Massachusetts for owners Dabney & Cunningham of Boston. Built in
Owl’s Head, Maine, at the Joshua C. Adams and Elisha Brown shipyard, the ship was launched in June 1854. She had a length of
111 feet, beam of 27 feet, and a draft of 11 feet. While designated a Brigantine, the rig is more accurately described as a hermaphro-
dite brig because there are no square sails on the main mast.
The Newsboy was engaged in the so-called triangular trade carrying lumber and manufactured goods from New England to the
Mediterranean, then transporting wine, oil, and fruits to the West Indies, then back to New England with rum, molasses, and sugar.
The Monthly Nautical Magazine said “having a reputation for speed , by wringing reluctant laurels from her competitors who have
chanced to fall in company with her at sea ....she does her designer no discredit....her log will speak for itself”.
The first plans and kit of the Newsboy were developed in 1948 by John Shedd, the original owner of Model Shipways in Bogota,
New Jersey. The design was a reconstruction based on a hull lines plan, historical notes, and copy of the ships log of 1855 which
appeared in an article in J. W. Griffith’s Nautical Magazine and Naval Journal, July 1856. In 1964, the model plans were redrawn by
the late English Naval Architect George Campbell with some modifications to the reconstruction and more detail for the model
builder. These plans were the last set developed by Model Shipways for the kit.
While the plans are reproduced from the 1964 version, the kit has been updated and reissued by Model Shipways, Inc. in
Hollywood, Florida, the current owner and manufacturer of Model Shipways kits. New instructions are provided along with a more
complete set of supplies for building the model. The fittings are now cast from lead-free Britannia metal and many laser-cut wood
parts have been added.
Brief History .........................................................................2
Before You Begin....................................................................3
Working With The Plans & Parts...........................................3
What You’ll Need To Start......................................................3
Painting & Staining ............................................................3-4
Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull
1. Using the Templates ...........................................................4
2. Carving the Hull ................................................................4
3. Carving the Bulwarks......................................................4-5
4. Carving the Inside of the Stern...........................................5
Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Structures
1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost.................................6
2. Installing the Rudder..........................................................6
3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull .................................6
4. Holes to be Drilled as Work Progresses...............................6
5. Installing the Waterway, Planksheer, & Deck Planking.......6
6. Installing Bulwark Stanchions, Cap Rail, & Bow Rail ........6
Stage C: Mounting the Hull
Mounting Board with Two Pedestals ......................................7
Stage D: Adding the Hull Details
1. General Notes ....................................................................7
2. Completing the Bulwark Details .....................................7-8
3. Forward Cabin Construction ..........................................8-9
4. Aft Companionway and Skylight Construction...............8-9
5. Steering Gear Cover Box &
Steering Wheel Construction.............................................8
6. Hatches...........................................................................8-9
7. Quarter Bitts, Pump, & Binnacle....................................8-9
8. Windlass and Bowsprit Bitt.............................................8-9
9. Anchor...............................................................................8
10. Fife Rails & Deck Eyebolts...............................................8
Stage E: General Masting & Rigging Information
1. Rigging Identification ......................................................10
2. Block, Deadeye, Bullseye, and Line Sizes..........................10
3. Sails and Sail Lines......................................................10-11
4. Applying Beeswax to the Lines .........................................12
5. Seizing Rigging Lines .......................................................12
6. Fittings & Block Strops ....................................................12
7. Rigging Tools & Belaying Lines........................................12
Stage F: Mast & Spar Construction
1. Shaping the Masts & Spars...............................................14
2. Assembling the Masts..................................................14-15
3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars .........................................15
4. Installing the Mast Assemblies..........................................15
Stage G: Standing Rigging
1. Bowsprit Rigging ........................................................16-18
2. Shrouds & Backstays...................................................16-18
3. Foremast (Head) Stays ................................................16-18
4. Mainmast Stays...........................................................16-18
5. Yard Lifts, Footropes, Stirrups, Slings & Trusses ...............18
Stage H: Running Rigging
1. Foremast Staysail Rigging ................................................20
2. Main Staysail Rigging.......................................................20
3. Spanker & Gaff Topsail Rigging.......................................20
4. Fore Course Yard Rigging.................................................21
5. Fore Lower Topsail Yard Rigging.................................21-22
6. Fore Upper Topsail Yard Rigging.................................22-23
7. Fore Topgallant & Royal Yard Rigging ........................22-23
8. Final Touches ...................................................................22
Bibliography.........................................................................23
Construction Stages & Table of Contents
Construction Stages & Table of Contents

3
Before You Begin
The Newsboy is an interesting model for
beginner and expert alike. This kit contains a
solid hull which has been machine-carved
from select, medium-hard, fine-grained bass-
wood. This style hull provides a quick and
easy lesson in the basic shapes and propor-
tions of hull design and helps to develop
woodworking skills. Although the exterior of
the hull has been carved close to the hull
lines as shown on the plans, further carving
is necessary for reasons of accuracy. (Carving
and finishing the hull to its final shape are
discussed in the instructions.)
Constructing the Newsboy model also will
provide you with the opportunity to develop
some scratch-building techniques. During
construction, you may want to substitute
some of the kit fittings with your own cre-
ations. By all means try them, especially if
you think you can improve the model.
If you are a beginner, completing this model
will prepare you for a more complicated
model such as the Pride of Baltimore II,
which is outfitted with a plank-on-bulkhead
hull. In the meantime, happy modeling!
Working with the Plans & Parts
Before starting model construction, examine
the kit and study the plans carefully. Familiar-
izing yourself with the kit will serve two
purposes. First, it will let you determine that
all parts have been supplied as listed. And
second, you’ll be surprised at how quickly
handling the parts allows you to better under-
stand the kit requirements. Try to visualize
how every part will look on the completed
model. Also, determine ahead of time what
must be done first. The instructions will help
you in this regard, but a thorough knowledge
of the plans at the outset is essential.
It is also suggested that all small fittings and
hardware be sorted into labeled boxes or
compartments to avoid loss during the build-
ing process.
Three Plan Sheets and Three Template Sheets
are provided:
1. Hull Templates - 1 of 3 (heavy stock paper)
2. Hull Templates - 2 of 3 (heavy stock paper)
3. Hull Templates - 3 of 3 (heavy stock paper)
4. Hull Plan - Sheet 1 of 3
5. Masting and Rigging Plan - Sheet 2 of 3
6. Details & Hints Plan - Sheet 3 of 3
In addition, a set of sketches appears through-
out the instruction manual to further
illustrate the various stages of construction.
The Newsboy kit is manufactured to a scale of
1/8" = 1'0" and matches the plans. Conse-
quently, most of the dimensions can be lifted
directly from the plans using a “tick strip”.
This is simply a piece of paper (a roll of calcu-
lator paper tape works very well). Mark a
dimension from the plan onto the tick strip
and transfer it to the model.
The Newsboy kit is supplied with Britannia
metal, brass, as well as wooden fittings to
eliminate problems in making such parts
from scratch. Because the Britannia metals
contain no lead, there are no possible corro-
sion problems. Many of these fittings will
require final finishing before installing on
the model.
Before painting the cast-meal fittings, clean
them up by removing all the mold-joint
flash. To do this, use a No. 11 hobby blade
to cut the flash, then sand with fine sand-
paper. It is also suggested that you clean
the fittings thoroughly with warm soapy
water before applying primer. Make sure
they are rinsed thoroughly and allowed to
dry before painting.
What You’ll Need To Start
The following tools and supplies are recom-
mended for the construction process.
Modelers who have built before may have
their own favorites. Almost all are available
at Model Shipways web site,
www.modelexpo-online.com.
A. Knives and Saws
1. Hobby knife with No.11 blades
2. Razor or jeweler’s saw
B. Files
Set of needle files
C. Sharpening Stone
Necessary to keep the tools razor sharp
D. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Several wooden clothespins
3. Rubber bands
E. Tool Set
A small carving tool set or individual
gouges and chisels for shaping the hull.
F. Boring Tools
1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80
2. Larger bits for holes such as mast,
hawse pipe, and mooring pipe holes
3. Pin vise
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. Small round
b. Flat nose
5. Bench vise (small)
6. Soldering iron or torch
a. Solder (lead-free solder
recommended)
b. Flux
7. Sewing thread (for seizings; other
rigging is supplied)
8.
Beeswax block (for treating rigging lines)
9. 1/2" or 3/4" masking tape
10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire
and strip metal)
H. Sandpaper
Garnet or aluminum oxide sandpaper
(#100 to #400 grit).
I. Finishing:
1. Paint brushes
a. Fine point for details
b. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square for hull
J. Supplies: (will be covered in detail in
the Painting & Staining section and
throughout instructions)
1. Paints
2. Primer
3. Stain and Varnish
4.
White or Carpenter’s (yellow) Wood Glue
5. Five-minute epoxy
6. Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue
Note about glues: White or Carpenter’s yel-
low wood glue will suffice for most of the
model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra
strength for gluing fittings. Cyanoacrylate
(Super) glue, called CA glue for short, such as
Zap is excellent for quick adhesion and is ideal
for dabbing onto a rigging seizing to hold it in
place. The best CA glue for most applications
is a medium viscosity gap-filling type. The
watery-thin type is recommended only to fill a
narrow crack by capillary action. For CA glue,
you can also purchase a liquid accelerator such
as Zip Kicker. A spray or drop of the accelera-
tor will instantly cure the glue. This is handy
to eliminate clamping parts for long periods of
time waiting for glue to harden.
Use CA glue with caution. You can easily
glue your fingers or eyelids together and the
fumes can burn your eyes. It would be a
good idea to have a bottle of CA debonder
on hand. This product will dissolve the glue
if you do get it on your body.
Painting and Staining
It may seem strange to begin an instruction
manual with direction on applying the finish-
es to the model. Not so! Much time and effort
can be saved and a more professional result
can be obtained if the finishing process is car-
ried out during construction. Proper timing
in application of finishes and the use of mask-
ing tape to define painted edges should
eliminate unsightly glue marks and splotchy
stained surfaces. In the end, following these
general suggestions will be to your advantage.
Paint Colors
The color scheme for Newsboyis provided on
Plan Sheet 1. However, the following modi-
fications are recommended, based on Model
Shipways acrylic paint colors, to better
define the color:

4
Underbody - Metallic Bronze or Bright
Green Trim
Bulwarks - Inside - Ocean Green Trim or
Clipper Pearl Blue
Ironwork - Iron/Cannon Black
Spars - Colonial Pine or English Oak stain.
Pine stain is also recommended for deck
planking.
Other Woodwork & Furniture - Hull
Umber
Paint:
Use a flat-finish paint. Model Shipways line
of acrylic paints are available in the recom-
mended colors. You may also purchase an
already assembled Newsboy paint kit from
Model Shipways web site,
www.modelexpo-online.com.
Primer:
Use a grey primer (one is provided with the
Newsboy paint kit). The grey color will high-
light sanding scratches and other defects
better than white primer. Prime all wood-
work to be painted, and prime all metal
fittings. Lightly sand the primed items.
Use a spackling compound such as Pic-n-
Patch brand to fill any scratches and defects,
then re-prime.
Stains & Finishes:
For natural finished wood, use a protective
coating after staining, such as low-sheen
polyurethane varnish. You can also use an
oil-resin mix like the ones sold by Model
Shipways or Minwax.
For the deck and spars, Model Shipways
stain or Minwax can be used. These are a
combination stain-finish that will provide a
light tone to the wood. The deck plank
edges can be painted prior to installation
with any dark color to simulate caulking.
The staining of all wood parts should be
done before gluing, especially if any CA glue
is used. The stain will not penetrate dried
glue and leave ugly white areas in the finish.
Brushes & Procedures:
Use good quality soft sable or synthetic hair
artist’s brushes. A small pointed brush is
good for details. For the main hull areas, use
a 1/4" to 1/2" flat brush.
Before painting, clean the model with a tack
rag. Apply your paint in smooth and even
strokes, overlapping them as you go. Thin
the paint enough to eliminate brush strokes,
but not run. You will need three or four
coats of the light colors to cover the grey
primer and maybe only two coats of the
dark. Check your finish between coats and
sand and add spackle as necessary to get rid
of any blemishes.
You will be told how to mark the waterline
location in Stage A. At this line, and any-
where else two colors meet, use masking
tape. Electrician’s black plastic tape or any of
the hobby tapes made of plastic film are
ideal. They leave a nice edge and are not
overly sticky. Do not use drafting tape unless
it is Chart-pak brand. The edges are some-
what wrinkled and paint may run under
them. A good trick; seal the edge of masking
tape with a clear flat finish and let dry thor-
oughly. This will really prevent paint from
running under the tape.
STAGE A: SHAPING THE PRE-CARVED HULL
Sanding alone will not shape the hull
enough to precisely match the hull lines.
Some carving is required, especially at the
rail, keel, bow, & stern areas.
1. Using the Templates
For exact carving to hull lines, a template is
required for the hull profile and each of the
stations. You will find a template set printed
on heavy stock paper in the kit. Cut the tem-
plates out carefully with a No. 11 hobby
knife. Do not use scissors! You will want a
nice smooth edge. The profile template is in
two parts. These can be taped together to
form one template. If used separately, make
sure you don’t get a knuckle at the keel. Keep
the keel straight.
2. Carving the Hull
Cut a wooden block from scrap to about 4"
x 1" x 3/4" thick. Screw the block to the
deck so the model can be held in a bench
vise for carving. First, check the accuracy of
the profile and correct it as necessary.
Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines
(where hull meets keel) and station lines on
the model (Figure A-1). Note that the width
at the keel, stem, and sternpost (rabbet to
rabbet) is 1/8". Keep these areas flat as the
1/8" keel, stem, and sternpost will be glued
on later. Place the station marks on the cen-
ter of the hull bottom and on top of the rails
so the marks won’t be carved off as you
work. Also, add marks for the width of the
hull at each station on top of the rail. Mea-
sure the marks from the centerline of the
model so the marks will be the same port
and starboard.
As shown on the sketch, a good way to start
is to cut a slope at the rail back to the hull
width marks to establish the width of the
hull at the rail for the entire hull length. You
now have a line to carve to as you fit the
templates. Next, start carving approximately
at mid length (maximum beam) and
progress forward, then aft, using chisels and
gouges to cut away excess wood. Avoid carv-
ing against the grain by shifting forward or
aft until you find a spot where you are going
with the grain. Basswood carves easily, so
you probably won’t have much problem with
the grain.
Carve very slowly and take off a little wood
at a time. Fit the templates as you go. Carve
until the template fits reasonably well, then
use sandpaper to obtain the final shape. At
first the templates will not fit very well, espe-
cially at the stern where a fair amount of
wood needs to be carved off. You must com-
pare the template to the hull and visually
decide where to remove wood. Cut a little
off, then re-check the template.
Finally, draw a few horizontal pencil lines
(like waterlines) and the vertical station
lines on the hull. Use these to visually check
the shape of the hull. Hold the hull at vari-
ous angles, and look to see if the pencil
lines are fair (even). If you have any unfair-
ness, dips or bumps, they can usually be
found with this visual check. You can also
use a stiff stick of wood, about 3/32"
square, and lay it on the hull at various
locations. Dips and bumps in the hull will
show up under the stick.
3. Carving the Bulwarks
Make yourself a temporary cradle to secure
the hull while carving. This cradle also will
serve to hold the model for most of the
remaining work. Make the cradle so the
model sits in it with its waterline parallel
to the baseboard and table. The tops of the
cradle should be below the waterline.
Later, when you are ready to paint, attach
a pencil on top of a wooden block and
slide it along the table to mark the loca-
tion of the waterline.
The machine-carved hull has bulwarks
thicker than scale so they won’t break
while inside the kit box. The upper surface
is cut to the underside of the cap rail.
After you carve the outside of the hull, the
bulwarks will be thinner. If more than
about 1/16" thick it will be necessary to
carve the inside of the bulwarks. This is
the most difficult part so work slowly as
you carve (Figure A-2). After carving, sand
the surfaces smooth. If you happen to have

5
or want to buy a powered rotary tool like a
Dremel, there are many cutters available to
quickly reduce the bulwark thickness.
Note: The bulwark stanchions will go onto
the inboard side of the carved bulwarks.
Together with the bulwark (planks on a
real ship) they must fit under the cap rail.
So check now using a stanchion strip and
piece of cap rail. If the stanchions will not
fit, sand the inside of the bulwark a little
more. Of course, you could use a wider
cap rail and/or thinner stanchion, but
don’t go too far or the scale will not look
proper.
Option: If you find carving the bulwarks
too tedious, cut off the bulwark flush with
the deck and build the bulwark with 1/16"
basswood sheet (not included in kit), then
add the stanchions.
4. Carving the Inside of the Stern
Carving the stern area is essentially the same
as the side bulwarks, only you have to deal
with the curve and the slope. Just be extra
careful while carving.
FIG. A-1 MARKING THE HULL
FIG. A-2 CARVING BULWARKS
RABBET
RAIL
WOOD TO BE
CUT AWAY
MARK CENTER LINE
MARK ALL
STATION LINES
MARK STATIONS &
HULL WIDTHS
ON TOP OF RAIL
START CARVING LIKE
THIS TO ESTABLISH HULL
WIDTH AT RAIL
FIT
TEMPLATES
MARK RABBET LINES
WIDTH
AT RAIL
MARK HULL
WIDTHS AT
EACH STATION
MEASURE FROM
LINES PLAN
USE GOUGE
FIRST
SMOOTH
WITH CHISEL
1/8"
1/8"
1/8"

6
1. Installing the Keel, Stem
& Sternpost
The keel, stem & sternpost are laser-cut
parts. Taper the stem and install the parts
(Figure B-1). Note that the hull plan shows
several scarf joints at the stem. Two of the
joints have been eliminated with the laser-
cut parts. Also, a new scarf joint has been
added in the keel, so the laser cut keel is in
two parts. Use pins or dowels to position the
parts before gluing. Scrape off any glue
squeeze-out. Fill any gaps remaining at the
glue joints with wood filler and then sand.
2. Installing the Rudder
The rudder, a laser-cut part, can be shaped
and installed now or later. Drill the hole in the
hull for the stock. The rudder is tapered and
has a round front edge. The stock portion is
round. The length of the stock is not impor-
tant as it disappears in the wheel box on the
deck. The pintles & gudgeons can be made
from brass strip, self adhesive copper tape, or
stiff paper. See Figure B-2 for construction.
3. Drilling the Larger Holes
in the Hull
Before going any further with the details,
drill all the other large holes in the hull.
These would include two mast holes, pilot
holes in the keel for screws or pins for
mounting the model on a display base,
hawse pipe and mooring pipe holes.
4. Holes to be Drilled as
Work Progresses
There will be a other holes to drill as the
work progresses. For example, holes for
scuppers, Britannia fittings, eyebolts, and
belaying pins.
5. Installing the Waterway,
Planksheer, & Deck Planking
Waterway and Planksheer - Along the
inside of the bulwarks , there is a waterway
plank and on top of it a planksheer. On a
real ship, the planksheer would be a single
plank going to the outside of the hull with
the bulwark stanchions going thru the plank.
However, for the solid hull model the
planksheer will be fitted in two pieces; a strip
inboard and a strip outboard. The bulwark
stanchions sit on top of the inboard strip.
Fit the waterway first. Note that the water-
way gets deeper and curves up near the bow,
so you will need to cut this from the bass-
wood sheet provided. Also, the bulwark is
sloping so the waterway needs to be carved
to fit the slope. Figure B-3 shows some sec-
tions thru the waterway and planksheer.
Deck Planks and Nibbing Strake
Note: This kit includes individual plank
strips in lieu of scored plank sheet found in
some other solid hull kits. As an option you
can purchase scored decking from Model
Shipways.
Start the planking at the centerline and work
outboard. Paint one side of each plank a
dark color to represent caulking. Careful not
to get paint on top of the plank.
Along the waterway there is a margin/nib-
bing strake, cut forward and aft to prevent a
feather edge on the planks as shown on the
deck plan. This detail is quite nice on a
model, but you could just feather the planks
into the waterway.
The nibbing strake will be a little difficult to
apply. Since you don’t know exactly where
the ends of each plank will stop, the nibbing
strake should be cut as you go. Cut the
strake where the nibs will occur as a plank
without nibs. Lay a plank, cutting the end of
the plank, then cut the nib in the strake. Or,
you could draw a line on the deck, cut the
plank ends, and cut the nibbing strake all at
once. Figure B-4 illustrates the procedure.
6. Installing Bulwark Stanchions,
Cap Rail, & Bow Rail
Install the stanchions first, then the cap rail.
The cap rail at the bow and stern where
there is a lot of curvature can be cut from the
sheet wood included in the kit. Add the bow
rail on top of the cap rail. Figure B-5 should
clarify the details.
STAGE B: COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES
FIG. B-1 KEEL, STEM & STERNPOST
FIG. B-2 RUDDER
STERNPOST
GUDGEON
WA
TERWAY SHAPED AT BOW AREAS
PLANKSHEER STRIP
OUTBOARD
PLANKSHEER STRIP
INBOARD
WA
TERWAY
GUDGEON
BRASS STRIP
OPTION-
COPPER TAPE
PINTLE
SOLDER OR
EPOXY PIN
1/16"
1/8"
TAPER & ROUND FRONT
PINTLE
STEM
T
APER
PIN OR DOWEL (TYPICAL)
LASER CUT RUDDER
PIN IS OPTIONAL
RUDDER
(TOP VIEW)
STERN POST
(TOP VIEW)
KEEL
PINTLE & GUDGEON DETAIL
FIG. B-3 WATERWAY & PLANKSHEER

7
Before proceeding with additional work it is
best to mount the hull. This step will help
prevent details from becoming damaged dur-
ing handling and will allow you to make any
alignments that require a true waterline. Prop-
er mounting of the hull is very important and
will allow the accurate building and aligning
of the remainder of the model. The kit does
not include any parts for mounting. However,
the following mounting is suggested.
Mounting Board with Two Pedestals - A
common mounting for ship models is a
wooden baseboard with two wooden or brass
pedestals. For a homemade board, a nice
looking hardwood such as cherry, walnut,
and maple would be ideal. You can round
the top edges of the baseboard, or cut a sim-
ple chamfer. If you own a router, or can
borrow one, you will be able to cut a nice
fancy edge on the baseboard. Stain the base
if necessary and give it a few coats of varnish
or finish like Minwax.
The pedestals could be wood or brass. One
pedestal needs to be longer than the other
because you should have the model mounted
with the waterline parallel to the baseboard.
If you decide on this type mounting you
should already have drilled pilot holes for the
screws as noted earlier. For Newsboy, the
pedestals should be located near station 5
and 11. If something went awry and the
waterline is not level, you can add a brass
shim under one pedestal to correct it.
Baseboards and pedestals are available from
Model Shipways web site,
www.modelexpo-online.com.
1. General Notes
Don’t forget to file off any flash on Britannia
metal fittings, clean the fittings and then prime
them with grey primer before final paint.
Mark the positions of fittings and structures.
Drill holes for the fittings or for locating-pins or
dowels. Before permanent installation, paint the
parts according to the Newsboy color scheme or
your choice of color. If wooden parts are not
painted prior to installation, at least make sure
you have the part sanded and ready for painting
in place. Use as little glue as necessary on parts.
Watch out for that glue squeeze-out. It’s hard to
remove if left to harden.
2. Completing the Bulwark Details
Before installing anything on the deck, com-
plete all the remaining details at the bulwarks
while there are no obstacles to contend with.
Knightheads & hawse timbers - Figure D-1
illustrates the details at the bow on each side
of the bowsprit.
Catheads - The catheads are laser-cut parts.
Cut a hole in the bulwarks for the parts. You
probably will need to shape the bottom of the
catheads to fit flush against the carved bul-
wark. Drill the sheave holes for the anchor
tackle lines, add the cleat, and the eyebolt for
the jibboom shroud (Figure D-2).
Doublers for fore sheet sheave holes and
mooring pipes, and hawse pipe and moor-
ing pipe lips - Fit the doublers, then drill the
holes thru the doublers and the bulwark. An
actual sheave need not be used for the sheet
unless you desire the additional detail. A sim-
ple hole should suffice. Drill the holes for the
hawse pipes thru the waterway. The lips for
the mooring and hawse pipes are Britannia
castings and fit on both the outboard and
inboard side. See Figure D-3 for some details.
Cavils & pin rails - There are three cavils on
each side. Make these from stripwood. The
pin rails need to be cut to fit around the bul-
STAGE C: MOUNTING THE HULL
STAGE D: ADDING THE HULL DETAILS
FIG. B-4
DECK
PLANKING
FIG. B-5
BULWARK
STANCHIONS,
CAP &
BOW RAILS
WATERWAY
NIBBING STRAKE
DECK PLANKS
CUT
SLOTS
PIN CAP RAIL
PLANKSHEER
BOW
RAIL
ADD
STANCHIONS
FIRST

8
wark stanchions. Drill and install the belaying
pins before installing the rails (Figure D-4).
Channels - Fit the channels on the outboard
side of the bulwarks (Figure D-5).
3. Forward Cabin Construction
Laser-cut sides and ends of the cabin are pro-
vided. The top beams are also laser- cut, but
need to be cut to length. Mark the centerline,
then cut off both ends.
Figure D-6 illustrates the cabin assembly.
After the top planks are completed, add the
galley chimney and the boat skids. The boat
is a casting. Place it on the skids and lash
down. The ladder on the aft side of the cabin
must be made from stripwood.
The window openings where glass will show
can be filled in with clear plastic sheet or with
wood and painted light blue or black.
4. Aft Companionway and
Skylight Construction
Figure D-7 shows the construction. Like the
forward cabin, the sides, ends, and top beams
are laser-cut parts. The bars for the skylight
and the windows can be wire but if a little
tedious for your taste, fill in the opening with
wood, paint the glass areas a light blue and
draw the bar lines on with ink.
5. Steering Gear Cover Box &
Steering Wheel Construction
The steering gear cover box is a simple
planked box with curved top. Add coamings
and top moulding similar to the cabins. The
wheel is a casting.
6. Hatches
Figure D-8 illustrates the basic construc-
tion of the hatches. All three hatches are
similar, just the overall size and number of
hatch cover panels vary. Note on the plan
that an option is to cover the hatches with
a canvas cover.
7. Quarter Bitts, Pump, & Binnacle
These three items are castings. Drill necessary
holes and install the fittings. The plan shows a
detail for lashing the binnacle to the deck. The
pump casting does not have the pump handle
which is portable. A handle can easily be made
if you want to include it on the pump casting.
The plan shows a detail of the handle.
8. Windlass and Bowsprit Bitt
The bowsprit bitt and the windlass are Britan-
nia castings. The bitt only has the windlass
pawl on the aft side. The crank and ratchet
arms can be made from scratch using brass or
wood. The windlass handles are portable so
can be omitted or installed if you like. The
connecting links can be made from wire and
fitted between the crank and ratchet arms
(Figure D-9).
9. Anchor
The plan shows the anchor on the port side
but it could be placed on the starboard side.
The anchor and anchor stock are both cast-
ings. As an option you could make the stock
from wood especially if a natural finish is
desired. Fit the eyebolts in the deck for attach-
ing the anchor lashing lines. The plan shows
the anchor stowed. You could add the anchor
tackle from the cathead and leave it attached
to the anchor. The anchor cable is chain. Run
it through the hawse pipe and around the
windlass. The plan shows how the anchor
chain could have been laid on the deck ready
for letting go. You can use this approach or
simply lay the chain on deck in a coil.
10. Fife Rails & Deck Eyebolts
Before adding the fife rails, it would be a good
idea to install the rigging eyebolts on the deck
around the foremast hole.
Each fife rails consist of a rail/bitt casting and
two round leg castings. Assemble the three
parts. Drill the holes in the rails and install the
belaying pins. Fit the fiferails in holes drilled
into the deck around each mast hole.
There are several eyebolts for rigging shown
on the deck plan. Install the eyebolts for the
fore yard halliards port and starboard and the
main boom sheet eyebolt on the bulwark
stanchion at centerline of the stern.
FIG. D-1 KNIGHTHEADS & HAWSE TIMBERS
FIG. D-2 CATHEADS
FIG. D-3 DOUBLERS
BLOCK ADDED
OR CARVED WHEN
CARVING BULWARK
KNIGHTHEAD
P/S
HAWSE TIMBERS
P/S
PLANKSHEER
CAP RAIL
CLEAT
LASER
CUT
DRILL
SHEAVE HOLES
SHAPE TO FIT FLUSH
AGAINST BULWARK
SIMPLE HOLE FOR
FORE SHEET OR
SLOT & SHEAVE
HOLE & LIP CASTING FOR
MOORING PIPES
INBOARD & OUTBOARD
WATERWAY & PLANKSHEER
DOUBLER BLOCK
A
B
CHISEL OUT BETWEEN
HOLES TO DEPTH OF
TACKLE LINE
EYEBOLT FOR
JIBBOOM SHROUD
HAWSE
PIPE

9
FIG. D-4 CAVILS & PIN RAILS
FIG. D-6 FORWARD CABIN
FIG. D-8
HATCHES
FIG. D-7
AFT
COMPANIONWAY
& SKYLIGHT
FIG. D-5 CHANNELS
PIN OR
JUST GLUE
TOP PLANKING
TOP
MOULDINGS
CORNER POST
CHAMFER EDGE COAMING COAMING
PAWL IS
ON
CASTING
RA
TCHET ON
WINDLASS
CASTING P/S
BITT
CASTING
WIRE
GLUE
ARMS
TO RA
TCHET
MAKE CRANK FROM
WOOD OR METAL
CUT ARMS
FROM WOOD
OR MET
AL
CUT ARMS
FROM WOOD
OR MET
AL
HATCH UNITS
2 GROOVES
FOR CANVAS
COVER TIE
DOWN ROPES
SIMPLIFIED
HA
TCH COVER -
SCRIBE JOINTS
LASER CUT
SIDES & ENDS
LASER CUT BEAM,
2 - EQUALLY SPACED
SCRIBE PANEL
LINES ON DOOR
FIT PIN RAIL
UNDER
CAP RAIL
DRILL HOLES
FOR BELAYING PINS
CUT SLOTS FOR
STANCHIONS
CAP RAIL
NOTCH FOR
CHAINPLA
TE -
INSTALL
CHAINPLATES,
THEN ADD
COVER STRIP
CHANNEL
TYPICAL CAVIL
TYPICAL
PIN RAIL
MODEL
REAL SHIP
OPTION
WINDOW FRAME
& SLIDING PANEL
SLIDE RAILS
DOOR
FRAME
SCRIBE PANEL
LINES ON DOORS
CENTER HINGE
BEAM
BASE COAMING
HINGED
LIFT TOP
SLIDING
COVER
CAP
RAIL
SKYLIGHT
FIG. D-9
WINDLASS &
BOWSPRIT BITT
Plank, Mouldings,
windowframes,
coamings &
corner posts
constructed same
as forward cabin
COMPANIONWAY

1. Rigging Identification
All of the rigging is identified by name on the
rigging plan. If you are not familiar with the
names and functions of rigging lines, the book
How to Build First-Rate Ship Models From Kits
by Ben Lankford contains a description of
Nautical terms (See Bibliography).
2. Block, Deadeye, Bullseye,
and Line Sizes
Blocks, Deadeyes, and Bullseyes - The
block sizes shown on the plans are actual
full ship sizes (length in inches). Deadeye
and bullseye sizes are given in full ship size
diameters (inches).
There are a limited number of different size
blocks, deadeyes, and bullseyes in the kit.
The following is a suggested list of kit block
sizes to use for the actual full ship sizes:
Blocks Lengths
4" to 9" - Use 3/32" length kit blocks
10" & 11" - Use 1/8" length kit blocks
Note: For double blocks 9" or less, use 1/8"
blocks as no 3/32" blocks are available.
For the 10" Triple block, make from
scratch as there are no triple blocks less than
3/16" available.
Deadeye Diameters
6" & 7" - Use 3/32" diameter kit deadeyes
8" - Use 9/64" diameter kit deadeyes
Note: The deadeyes are slightly oversized to
scale to simplify rigging lanyards and there
are two sizes to give a visible difference
between lower and upper shrouds.
Bullseye Diameters
6" & 7" - Use 3/32" diameter kit bullseyes
10" - Use 9/64" diameter kit bullseyes
Rigging Line - Line sizes are also shown on
the plans. These are in full ship size line
(circumference in inches).
There is a limited number of different size
lines in the kit. The following is a suggested
list of kit supplied line sizes in diameter
inches to use for the actual full ship
circumference sizes:
Line Circumference
1", 1-1/2" - Use 0.005" diameter kit supplied line
2", 2-1/2" - Use 0.008" diameter kit supplied line
3", 3-1/2", 4", 4-1/2" - Use 0.012" diameter kit
supplied line
5", 7-1/2" - Use 0.018" diameter kit supplied line
8" - Use 0.028" diameter kit supplied
Note: 0.005" to 0.012" line will be both
black and tan. 0.018" to 0.028" will be
only black.
Also, there are several running lines on the
plans that are not sized, primarily staysail
sheets and downhauls. However, the block
sizes are shown. Use the following block and
line size combinations:
3/32" blocks, use 0.005" or 0.008" diameter line
1/8" blocks, use 0.008" or 0.012" diameter line
3. Sails and Sail Lines
Model with Sails
The plans for this model include a full open
set of sails, but you have the option of build-
ing the model with sails furled, partially
furled, or with no sails.
Most of the rigging text and detail sketches
provided in the instructions will be address-
ing the model without sails. However, the
following provides some typical model pro-
cedures if you prefer to add sails. Follow the
plans for the specifics on each sail:
Making a model sail (Figure E-1) - Choos-
ing the proper material is critical. Sailcloth
for models must be lightweight, yet fairly
opaque. Although linen is ideal, most is too
heavy for small scale models, so select tightly
woven cotton fabric. Wash the sailcloth sev-
eral times to pre-shrink it. When dry, iron
the fabric, but be careful not to scorch it.
Lightly pencil in seams, tabling (hem) lines,
and other reinforcements, then sew the
seams using light tan cotton thread. A
sewing machine makes fast work of the proj-
ect. Practice on scrap fabric and balance the
needle thread tension so it doesn’t pucker the
material. Stitch lines to represent reinforce-
ment patches.
10
STAGE E: GENERAL MASTING & RIGGING INFORMATION
FIG. E-1 MAKING SAILS
FIG. E-2
ADDING REEF POINTS
& BOLT ROPES
SAIL CLOTH WEAVE SAME AS
SEAM DIRECTION
PENCIL LINES,
THEN SEW SEAMS
PENCIL LINES, THEN
SEW TO REPRESENT
REEF BANDS
"A"
(CUT)
"A"
"B"
SEW "C"
"B" "C"
STITCH TO
REPRESENT
REINFORCEMENT,
OR SEW A PATCH,
OR GLUE ON
P
ATCH WITH
FABRIC GLUE
FINAL SHAPE
TUCK CORNERS &
SEW BY HAND
BOLTROPE
REEF
BAND
TOUCH ENDS WITH GLUE
SO IT WILL NOT UNRAVEL
SEW BY
HAND
SEW "THRU" THE LINE,
NOT AROUND IT
HOLE AS
CRINGLE IF NO
BOLTROPE USED
REEF POINTS
PUNCH
HOLE
SEW
DOWN
FORM CRINGLE
SEW SEAMS FIRST
,
THEN CUT AT "A"
TABLING
(HEM)
BOLTROPES
BOLTROPES
REEF POINTS

11
Before proceeding, iron the sails again and
be careful not to scorch them. Next, cut the
sail shape using Line A shown in the sketch.
Fold the hem, iron it flat, and sew as close
to Line B as possible. Tuck the ends and
hand stitch the comers. The sail is now
ready for stretching.
Stretching the material assures the sail’s
proper shape, since sewing may have altered
it. Using the original pattern, trace the sail’s
outline onto a piece of paper. Place the paper
on a solid but porous backing, such as a
wood or cork board. Now wash the sail again
and lay it over the outline. Stretch the wet
material to the sail’s outline’s, then secure
with stick pins through its outer edges.
When dry, the sail will have resumed its
proper shape. Iron it one more time.
Boltropes and Reef Points (Figure E-2) -
Although boltropes (rope sewed to the edge
of a sail to give it strength and prevent the
fabric from ripping) can be omitted on small
scale models, they add immeasurably to larg-
er ones. The sketch shows the correct way to
sew boltropes and install reef points.
Sewing Aids - Visit a fabric shop and pur-
chase a squeeze bottle of Fray-Chek, a light
adhesive. Running or brushing a bead along
the edge of a sail prevents the material from
unraveling. Do this before attempting to roll
the hem. Painting Fray-Chek on untreated
fabric makes cutting easier and produces a
crisp edge.
Stitch-Witchery and Wonder-Under are
heat-fusing bonding tapes that resemble thin
mat fiberglass. Stitch-Witchery comes in a
roll and is bond-sensitive on both sides. To
join two clothes, simply place a strip
between them and iron. Wonder-Under
comes in sheets with a thin paper backing on
one side. While not needed for Newsboy, it is
useful for bonding letters and numbers to a
scale sailboat’s sail (maybe one of your future
models). First, buy the colored fabric for the
numbers. Place the Wonder-Under sheet on
the cloth with the paper backing up. Iron the
sheet to bond it to the fabric. Next, cut out
the letters, numbers, logo, or whatever with
scissors or a sharp blade. Peel off the paper
backing, position the letter on the sail, and
iron. This technique also works for making
flags from colored fabric.
Material for Furling Sails - A sail cut to the
original’s scale size is impossible to furl. The
fabric is usually too heavy, resulting in a
bulky furled sail. To solve this problem,
either buy a lighter material such as Silkspan
(model airplane covering tissue) or propor-
tionally reduce the size of a sail by one-third
when using sailcloth (Figure E-3). Depend-
ing on their size, even Silkspan sails may
require reducing by one-third. Test the per-
centage reduction to determine how much
fabric is needed for a tight furl. Don’t forget
to add some seams and hems, for these
details are visible even on furled sails.
Furled and Partially Furled Sails (Figure
E-4) - Sails are often left partially furled, per-
haps for drying the sail. This is a practice
especially suited to square sails, with the sail
pulled up with their clew lines and bunt
lines. The sketch illustrates some “looks” of
furled and partially furled sails.
Note: Model Shipways has silkspan and a
balooner cotton sail cloth. Check their web
site. The balooner cloth may be a little heavy
for this model. A lighter cotton cloth would
be a better choice.
FIG. E-3 SAIL SHAPES
FOR FURLING
FIG. E-4 FURLED & PARTIALLY FURLED SAILS
FIG. E-5 SEIZINGS
FULL SAIL
P
ATTERN
BUNT & LEECHLINES
CLEW
GARNET
REEF
TACKLE
JIB
STAY
OUTER
JIB ST
AY
CLEW
GARNET
AFT
ST
ART WITH A
CLOVE HITCH
WRAP
, THEN GLUE
& CUT-OFF ENDS
GLUE
SEIZING SMALL BLOCK OR AROUND
SPAR USING A SLIP NOT
CUT TO THIS
SHAPE TO
REDUCE BULK
FOR FURLING
SQUARE SAIL
SQUARE SAILS
FURLED PARTIALLY FURLED
HEAD SAILS FURLED
STAYSAIL

12
Model without sails
Even without sails, some of the rigging lines
such as sheets, halliards, and clew lines are to
remain, along with their lead blocks. Some
of the lines are to be hooked together, such
as head staysail halliards and sheets, and yard
clew lines and sheets. The hauling ends of
these lines should be belayed at their proper
locations. Installing these sail rigging lines on
the model adds tremendously to the look of
the model, especially at the stays where the
contrasting black stay and light running
lines, along with their blocks, create interest-
ing visual detail.
4. Applying Beeswax to the Lines
Before placing rigging lines on the model,
run the line through a block of beeswax sev-
eral times. Then, run the line through your
fingers. This heats the wax slightly and rubs
it into the line. The beeswax will cut down
on fuzz and protect the line from moisture.
5. Seizing Rigging Lines
Seizing of lines (binding or securing two
lines or different parts of the same line) can
be done as shown in Figure E-5. To prevent
seizings from unraveling, add a touch of CA
glue. For seizings, use the smallest line in the
kit or sewing thread.
6. Fittings & Block Strops
Making Fittings - This model is of a period
when iron fittings were used extensively
throughout the ship. Most of these fittings
on the model must be made from scratch
unless a casting is provided. Brass is a pre-
ferred material for these fittings, which may
or may not require soldering, but there are
other options that can be considered. The
following listed sketches illustrate some typi-
cal fittings and some simplified methods for
modeling them. The methods can be applied
to any similar fitting.
Figure E-6 - Rigging bands found around
such items as masts, yards, booms, gaffs,
bowsprits, and jibbooms.
Figure E-7 - Fixed yard truss.
Figure E-8 - Moving yard parrels.
Note that brass strip, self adhesive copper
tape, and eyebolts are provided in the kit.
Sufficient quantities are supplied no matter
which method you choose for your fittings.
Block Strops - A strop is an iron or rope
band or grommet around the shell of a block
for attaching lines. The blocks in the kit are
fairly small so it will not be easy for you to
create the exact detailing. Some modeling
shortcuts are in order. See Figure E-9 for
some life-size ship details and model options.
Note: For the Newsboy, like the other metal
fittings, iron stropped blocks will be used
quite often. However, rope stropped blocks
were also used and often preferred to prevent
chafing of sails, safety, and other reasons.
You won’t be wrong, no matter which
method you use. The reprint of the book
Spars and Rigging from Nautical Routine
(see bibliography) is an excellent text to
consult for the period. Both iron and rope
stropped blocks are discussed.
7. Rigging Tools & Belaying Lines
The belaying pins in the kit are a little over-
size since they are the smallest pins available.
They could be cut to a shorter length or just
left as is.
To aid the rigging process homemade tools can
be made from brass rod with a push fork end
or a hook end (Figure E-10). Use a brass rod
long enough to reach in where your hand can-
not. Such tools are also available commercially.
When belaying lines on small scale models it
is best to secure the line to pins or cleats first.
Then add a coil of line on the belaying point
separately. See Figure E-11.
A word of advice - Rigging plans are some-
times hard to follow. Lines may cross each
other and they sometimes go behind some-
thing or seem to disappear into thin air.
Before you start the rigging, get a notebook
and do a small sketch of each rigging line on
a separate page. Sketch in where the lines
end such as at an eyebolt and label these
points. If something seems to be missing
FIG. E-6
RIGGING
BANDS
FIG. E-8 YARD PARRELS
FIG. E-7 MODEL YARD TRUSS
BRASS STRIP OPTIONS
SELF-ADHESIVE
COPPER TAPE
HINGED STRAP TYPE
BARREL TYPE
WRAP TAPE ON SPAR.
DRILL HOLES FOR
EYEBOLT EYES
EYEBOLT
EYES
BRASS OR
TAPE BANDS
WOOD
CHEEK
WIRE OR
STRAP
PARREL SIMPLE ROPE-TYPE
(OLDER, SMALLER SHIPS)
BAND
PIN OR
SOLDER
BAR SIMILAR TO
FIXED TRUSS BARREL FROM TUBING,
WOOD, BRASS STRIP,
OR TAPE
SOLDER
SHAPE
& DRILL HOLE
SOLDER SOLDER
MAST
SOLDER
BRASS
BAR
SIMPLIFIED
ALL-WIRE TRUSS
OPTION - SOLDER
BANDS -
BRASS OR
T
APE
PIN
YARD
TWIST
OPTION - USE PIN
OPTION - USE
EYEBOLT
DRILL HOLES
FOR
EYEBOLTS
BEFORE
INST
ALLING
BAND ON SPAR
SOLDER & SHAPE
SIMILAR EYES

13
when you view your sketches, seek help or
find the answer in a rigging text (consult the
bibliography). Use the final sketches as you
rig the model. You won’t need to crawl your
way thru the rigging plan again.
When rigging such items as yards, booms
and gaffs, do as much rigging as possible
with the item in hand before installing the
part on the model. Seize the lines to the part
and have enough running rigging line so it
can reach to its final destination, such as a
belaying pin, with a little line left. Better to
be too long than too short. Standing rigging
such as yard footropes are included as these
would be very difficult to do with the yard
hanging at the mast.
FIG. E-9 BLOCK STROPS
HOOK EYEBOLT
LASHING
BECKET
ROPE STROP
REAL SHIP
IRON
ROPE
FOR WRAPPING AROUND SPARS
MODEL OPTIONS
NO HOOK
TWIST
WIRE
GLUE
GLUE
SEIZE
WITH
THREAD
BELAYING LINE TO PIN
SEPARATE ROPE COILS
PULL TIGHT,
CUT & GLUE
REMOVABLE PIN
JIG
REMOVABLE PIN
FOR A MORE OPEN,
REALISTIC LOOK,
OMIT THREAD &
GLUE COILS TO
EACH OTHER
ADD WHITE GLUE
TO STIFFEN
USE TOOL TO
PUSH LINE UNDER PIN
USING
RIGGING LINE
SEIZE &
GLUE
LINE OR WIRE
SLIP NOT & GLUE
FIG. E-11 BELAYING LINES
BRASS ROD
WOOD
HANDLE
LARGE SEWING NEEDLE
PUSH FLATTEN
END,
FILE
SHAPE
CUT WITH
SNIPS OR
FILE
PULL
FIG. E-10 RIGGING TOOLS

14
Most references call a mast a mast, and any-
thing else such as a boom, yard, gaff, and
bowsprit a spar. Let’s stick with that definition.
The mast and spar dowels included in the kit
are round. True to scale, masts and spars must
be tapered for their full length.
1. Shaping the Masts & Spars
Tapering the Masts and Spars
The correct shape of the masts and spars are
shown on the plans. Each of the mast and
spars are generally tapered in a slight
(parabolic) curve. However, for models, it
may be difficult to accomplish a parabolic
shape. A straight line taper should be suffi-
cient. The best way to taper masts and spars
from dowels is to cut the taper into squares,
then octagons, and finish by sanding into a
round shape (Figure F-1).
Note that the fore topgallant mast and the
main topmast have rigging stops where stays
and lifts secure. A rigging stop is simply a
shoulder formed by the reduction of the mast
diameter going above. The shoulder prevents
the lines from sliding down the mast. For the
model, to actually cut the shoulders could
weaken the mast and it could break. Instead,
as an option, wrap the mast with thread or
paper strip and glue to form a fake shoulder
(Figure F-2).
Shaping the Mastheads & Heels
After tapering, the next areas of the masts to
be shaped are the mastheads and heels where
the masts join together at the doublings (see
plans for location).
The fore and main lower mast heads and the
fore topmast head is square with chamfered
edges, and has a square tenon at the top for
fitting the mast caps. Also, there is a flat side
on the lower masts where the trestletree
cheeks fit.
The heel of the fore and main topmast and
the fore topgallant mast is square. A fid is
located in each topmast and topgallant mast
heel to prevent them from falling through the
holes formed by the trestletrees. For this par-
ticular ship the square heel is offset forward to
provide more space for the shrouds passing
between the two masts.
Figure F-3 illustrates the shaping of the mast-
heads, heels and the fid. Since you are dealing
with wood dowels, the sketch also shows how
to build the square ends by adding wood to
the cut-end. Adding wood is necessary because
the dimension across the flats of the square
must be the same as the dowel diameter. Con-
sequently, the diagonal of the square is greater
than the dowel diameter. This method can be
used for masts heels with, or without an offset
as we have with Newsboy. It’s just a matter of
cutting the initial square in an offset position
or centered and adding sufficient wood so the
proper detail can be carved.
2. Assembling the Masts
The mast caps are laser-cut parts. Add all
bands and fittings to the caps before assem-
bling the masts, or at least before you install
the assemblies into the holes in the deck.
Make the trestletrees and cross-trees from
stripwood and cut the cheeks under the
trestletrees from the sheet wood in the kit. Fit
the topmast and topgallant masts in the mast
caps, then fit the assembly to the mast below.
Make sure the masts at the doublings are
aligned per the plan.
Mast Details - Before painting and staining
the masts there are a few details to add. Drill
the holes representing sheaves thru the masts
for yard halyards. The mainmast has a rest for
the boom. This is a casting provided in the
kit. Slide and glue the casting onto the mast.
You may need to file out the hole for a proper
fit. Also, the chocks are a bit long so should
be filed down somewhat. Add the ball on top
of the fore topgallant and main topmast. Add
the fittings for the futtock bands and lower
STAGE F: MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION
FIG. F-1 TAPERING DOWELS
FIG. F-3 SHAPING MASTHEADS & HEELS
FIG. F-2
TOPMAST RIGGING STOPS
MAST
MASTHEAD
SPAR DIAMETER BUILD-UP
TOPMAST & TOPGALLANT HEEL
TAPER
REQUIRED
DRAW SQUARE
ON END
SQUARE
TOP
TRESTLETREES
FLAT SIDES
IN WAY OF
THE CHEEKS
ROUND
WRAP
THREAD
& GLUE
1. CUT SQUARE 2. CUT SQUARE 3. FINAL SHAPE
NOTE: SQUARE IS OFFSET
FORWARD
NOTE: OFFSET IS NOT TYPICAL ON
MANY OTHER SHIPS
CHAMFER
EDGES
FID
ROUND
SQUARE
1ST CUT
SQUARE
2ND CUT
8-SIDED
SANDED
ROUND
DOWEL
CENTER OF YARD OR MAST HEEL
REAL SHIP MODEL OPTION

15
yard trusses. And finally, add the ship’s bell on
the foremast. Figure F-4 illustrates some
assembled mast details.
Spanker and Gaff Topsail Mast Hoops -
These need to be put on the mainmast before
installing the masts if you elect to include
them. Refer to Stage H for a discussion on
the hoops.
3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars
Yards
Shape the yards in the same manner as the
masts. The maximum diameter of each yard is
at its center. Taper the yards outward from
each center.
Yard Details - You need to detail the yards
as much as possible before placing them on
the masts. Cut a shoulder on each end of
the yards which is a stop for lifts and
footropes. Also, drill holes (sheaves on real
ship) in the ends of the yards for the sheets
from the sail above.
Jackstays consists of a series of eyebolts thru
which a rod is passed. The rod and eyebolts
are used for attaching the head of the sail
and the footrope stirrups. Note that the eye-
bolts are on top of the yard but slightly
forward of the yards centerline. Add all the
parrel and truss fittings, and bands for the
blocks near the center of the yards.
Figure F-5 illustrates a typical yard.
Boom & Gaffs
The main boom and gaff also taper, but the
maximum diameter of each spar should be
about one-third from its fore end. Unlike the
yards, there is no shoulder at the outer end of
these spars. However, there is a chock in each
side of the spar to act as a rigging stop. Add all
the fittings like the boom sheet band and cleats.
The boom and gaffs require that jaws be
added to their throats for joining to the masts.
The jaws are laser-cut wood parts for this kit.
The fore end of the gaff jaws are curved
upward as shown on the plan. You can cut a
slit in the laser-cut jaws, bend and glue to
form the curve or omit this detail (Figure F-6).
Bowsprit, Jibboom, & Dolphin Striker
The bowsprit is round inboard, changing to
square, round again, and back to square at the
outer end. To save adding wood to create the
squares like you did with mast heels, it would
be easier to use the square strip provided in
the kit instead of the dowel. Tenons are
required on each end of the bowsprit to fit the
bowsprit cap and the bowsprit bitt on deck.
The jibboom should be straight from the aft
end to the bowsprit cap, then tapered for-
ward. On the inboard end, cut the tenon to
fit into the block at the bow. At the outer end
cut the shoulders and add the rigging bands.
Drill the holes for stays to pass thru.
The Dolphin Striker is a simple tapered
round spar. Add the fitting at the top and bot-
tom of the spar. The cleats at the bottom can
be a bent wire with flattened ends, a detail of
this is shown on Plan Sheet 3.
Assembly and Installation - Glue the
bowsprit cap (laser-cut part) onto the
bowsprit. You will need to shape the holes a
bit for both the bowsprit and jibboom since
the cap is at a slight angle to the spars. Insert
the jibboom, but don’t glue it to the cap. Fit
the dolphin striker (proper name martingale)
to the bowsprit cap. Add the bees for the stays.
Before going any further, fit the assembly to
the hull to make sure the jibboom and
bowsprit tenons fit correctly into the jibboom
block and bowsprit bitt. Then you can com-
plete the fittings for the assembly (Figure F-7).
4. Installing the Mast Assemblies
It is recommended that before installing
masts, secure the yards, boom and gaff to the
masts. Temporarily hang them with some line
so they don’t flop all around. Install the mast
assemblies in the holes drilled into the deck.
Check the alignment and shim if necessary,
then add the mast coats. The mast coats are
actually canvas covers over the wedges on a
real ship holding the masts in place. For the
model, mast coat halves are laser-cut parts.
Add these at the deck around the masts.
FIG. F-4 MAST DETAILS
FIG. F-5 TYPICAL YARD
MAST HEADS
YARD WITH PARREL
YARD WITH TRUSS
CAP
CAP
BAND
CHEEKS
BOLSTER
TRESTLE TREE
CROSS
TREE
HOLE FOR YARD
HALLIARD ON
TOP FORE MAST
TRUSS &
FUTTOCK
BAND
FORWARD
JACKSTAY
EYEBOLTS
JACKSTAY
ROD
SHOULDER
HOLE FOR SAIL
ABOVE SHEET
HINGED
PARREL
BANDS WITH EYES
FOR BLOCKS
BAND FOR HALLIARD
BAND FOR
SLING
CHOCK
TOPMAST OR
TOPGALLANT
SHOULDERS ON
FORE TOPGALLANT
MAST
CRANE FITTING ON MAINMAST
FOR GAFF THROAT
HALLIARD BLOCK
HOLE FOR YARD
HALLIARDS
EYEBOLTS FOR
GAFF PEAK
HALLIARDS -
MAIN MAST
ONL
Y

16
1. Bowsprit Rigging
Begin the standing rigging with the bowsprit.
Install the two bobstays, the inner and outer
martingale stays, the port and starboard
martingale backstays (all chain). Next, rig
the footropes, bowsprit shrouds, and the
jibboom shrouds. Figure G-1 illustrates the
rig to this point. Rigging at the bowsprit will
be completed while and after installing the
foremast (head) stays. But first, the mast
shrouds need to be installed since the head
stays and all fore and aft stays go over top of
the shrouds at the mastheads.
2. Shrouds & Backstays
The lower shrouds are set up with deadeyes
and lanyards at the channels and attached
along the outside of the ship using chain
plates. The topmast and topgallant backstays
are shown on the drawing set up to bullseyes
and chain plates. However, there is a note at
the bottom of Sheet 2 indicating the use of
deadeyes as an option for a ship this size.
The deadeye strops and chain plates are to be
made of wire provided in the kit (Figure G-2).
T
o set up the shrouds, make a temporary jig of
wire to space the deadeyes as you do the seiz-
ings (Figure G-3). The sketch also shows the
sequence for reeving the lanyards and the
proper sequence for the shrouds going around
the mastheads. Keep an eye on the masts as
you rig the shrouds, so you will not pull them
out of line.
The fore topmast shrouds are set up similar to
the lower shrouds but instead of having chain
plates they set up to iron futtock shrouds. The
fore topgallant and main topmast shrouds
have no deadeyes and pass thru the cross-trees
and set up to a band around the mast. Figure
G-4 illustrates the upper shrouds.
After the shrouds are in place, proceed to add
the ratlines and the sheer poles (Figure G-5).
The sketch shows real ship practice and vari-
ous model options. Note there are no ratlines
on the main topmast shrouds.
3. Foremast (Head) Stays
Forestay -The forestay is a double line seized
together just below the masthead and just
above the deck. The lower ends set to bullseyes
with lanyards on each knighthead at the bow
(Figure G-6).
Fore Topmast Stay -This stay is also double
and is seized together just below the masthead
and above the bowsprit. The lower ends pass
thru the port and starboard bee holes on the
bowsprit and are secured by bullseyes and lan-
yards at the bow (Figure G-7).
Inner and Outer Jib Stays - The single line
jib stays feed thru a hole in the jibboom, down
to cleats on the dolphin striker and are set to
bullseyes and lanyards at the hull. Note that
the inner jib stay goes to the port side and
outer stay to starboard (Figure G-8).
Fore Topgallant Stay and Fore Royal Stay -
These stays pass thru holes at the end of the
jibboom, under the cleats on the dolphin
striker, and are set to bullseyes and lanyards at
the hull. Note that the topgallant stay goes to
port and royal to starboard (Figure G-9).
4. Mainmast Stays
Mainstay - The stay is double and is seized
together just below the masthead and just
above deck. The lower ends are set to thimbles
and eyebolts at the deck on each side of the
mast (Figure G-10).
Middle Stay - This stay is fixed to an eyebolt
at the mainmast cap and to a bullseye and
strop around the fore masthead (Figure G-11).
STAGE G: STANDING RIGGING
KNOT
P
ARREL
TENON
ROUND
CA
THEAD
BOBSTAYS
STIRRUP P/S
EYEBOLT P/S
EYEBOLT
ON SIDE
OF CAP P/S
FOOTROPE
P/S
SLIP-PREVENT
KNOTS
MARTINGALE BACKSTAYS P/S
BOWSPRIT SHROUDS P/S JIBBOOM SHROUDS P/S
OUTER
MARTINGALE
CHAIN
INNER
MARTINGALE
CHAIN
SQUARE SQUARE
ROUND
ROUND BEES P/S
ROUND
BOBSTAY
BANDS
BOW
FLATTEN
SIDES
FIG. F-6 BOOM
& GAFF JAWS
FIG. F-7 BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY
FIG. G-1 BOWSPRIT RIGGING
LASER-CUT
JAW HALF
FOR CURVED GAFF JAWS,
CUT & BEND OR ADD
WOOD AND RESHAPE
BOWSPRIT
GAMMON IRON
TENON
HINGED
SADDLE
BAND
JIBBOOM - ROUND HOLES FOR ST
AYS
MARTINGALE CHAIN
BANDS
DOLPHIN STRIKER - ROUND
CLEAT
BAND
CAP - LASER-CUT

17
Main Topmast Stay - The top of the stay is
seized around the rigging stop on the main
topmast, passes thru an eyebolt on the fore-
mast cap and sets to an eyebolt on the
foremast trestletree (Figure G-12).
Main Topgallant Staysail Stay - Seize the
stay around the upper rigging stop of the
main topmast. The lower end is secured to an
eyebolt in the fore topmast head cross-tree
(Figure G-13).
Main Topgallant Stay - The upper end is
seized around the upper rigging stop of the
main topmast. The lower end is seized to a
bullseye and strop around the fore topgallant
mast lower rigging stop (Figure G-14).
FIG. G-2 DEADEYE
STROPS &
CHAIN PLATES
FIG. G-3 SHROUD SETUP
FIG. G-4 UPPER SHROUDS FIG. G-5
OPTIONS FOR TYING RATLINES
FIG. G-6 FORESTAY
STROP
CHAINPLA
TE
TWIST
TEMPORARY
WIRE
JIG
KNOT
SEIZE
ST
AYS
SHROUDS
PORT
PORT
CUT-OUT
& GLUE
CLOVE
HITCH
THREAD
WITH NEEDLE
CLOVE HITCHES
ALL SHROUDS
EYE SPLICE
LASHED TO
SHROUD
(REAL SHIP)
SHEER
POLE LASHED
TO SHROUDS
TIE LANYARD
& GLUE
MAKE A LITTLE LONGER
THAN REQUIRED. LET
LANYARDS PULL
SHROUDS TIGHT
MODEL
OPTIONS
SHROUD SEQUENCE
VIEW IS
INBOARD
LOOKING
OUTBOARD
LANYARD
SEQUENCE
BOLT
WIRE
NAIL
BACKING
LINK
CROSS TREES
FUTTOCK
SHROUD
(IRON ROD)
SHACKLE
P/S
SHROUD
EYE
SPLICE
LASHING
SHACKLE
P/S
EYEBOLTS IN
KNIGHTHEADS
AT BOW
BULLSEYES &
LANYARDS
SEIZE
SEIZE
FOREMAST
PLAN SHOWS STAY
IS LEATHERED AROUND
MAST - OPTION FOR MODEL
DOUBLE LINE
CROSS TREES
FORE TOPMAST FORE TOPGALLANT
& MAIN TOPMAST

18
FIG. G-7
FORE TOPMAST
STAY
FIG. G-8 JIB STAYS
FIG. G-9 FORE TOPGALLANT
& ROYAL STAYS
FORE
TOPMAST
SIMILAR TO FORESTAY
BEES ON
SIDES OF BOWSPRIT
BULLSEYES &
LANYARDS
A
T BOW
DOUBLE LINE
SEIZE
P
S
SEIZE
AT BOW
BULLSEYES &
LANYARDS
JIBBOOM
INNER JIB
STAY
OUTER JIB
STAY
THRU HOLE
(SHEAVE)
UPPER CLEATS ON
DOLPHIN STRIKER
UPPER RIGGING
STOP
LOWER RIGGING
STOP
TOPGALLANT
MAST
TOPGALLANT
ST
AY
BULLSEYES &
LANYARDS
LOWER CLEATS ON
DOLPHIN STRIKER
A
T BOW
P
SEIZE
SEIZE
ROYAL STAY
HOLES IN JIBBOOM
JIBBOOM
FORE
TOPMAST HEAD
P
5. Yard Lifts, Footropes, Stirrups,
Slings, & Trusses
These lines and fittings are actually a part of
the standing rigging but we will defer the
instruction to running rigging, Stage H.
These rigs are best installed along with some
running rigging while working with the yards.

19
FIG. G-10 MAINSTAY
FIG. G-12 MAIN TOPMAST STAY FIG. G-13 MAIN TOPGALLANT
STAYSTAIL STAY
FIG. G-14
MAIN TOPGALLANT
STAY
FIG. G-11 MIDDLE STAY
EYE A
T MAIN MASTHEAD
SIMILAR TO FORE STAY
FOREMAST
SEIZE
SEIZE
FOREMAST
SEIZE
BULLSEYE
STROP
AROUND MAST
FORE TOPGALLANT
MAST
SEIZE
AT
UPPER
RIGGING
STOP
RIGGING
STOP ON
MAIN
TOPMAST
EYEBOLT
ON CAP
SEIZE
SEIZE
RIGGING
STOP
ON MAIN
TOPMAST
EYEBOLT ON
CROSSTREE
AT CENTERLINE
FORE TOPMAST
EYEBOLT IN
TRESTLETREE
PORT OR STARBOARD
RIGGING STOP
ON MAIN
TOPMAST
EYEBOLTS IN
DECK
SEIZE
MAINMAST
HEAD
EYEBOLT IN CAP
SEIZE
STAY AROUND
MET
AL THIMBLE -
CAN BE OMITTED
ON MODEL
DOUBLE
LINE
SEIZE
BULLSEYES
& LANYARDS
STROP
AROUND
FOREMAST
HEAD
STOP
CHOCK

20
Before starting on the running rigging, have all
your blocks stropped and/or seized to a line as
much as possible. Some running lines may
pass thru a sheave hole, then require a block. If
so, try starting at the block and rigging back-
ward. Of course, if in such a situation a block
is required on both sides of the sheave you are
stuck with having to seize at least one of the
blocks on the model.
As noted in Stage E, the instructions concentrate
on a rig without sails. However, if you intend to
install sails, either full-up or furled, refer back to
Stage E for some of the suggested details.
1. Foremast Staysail Rigging
The fore staysail, fore topmast staysail, Inner
jib, outer jib, and flying jib are all rigged essen-
tially the same. Except for the fore staysail,
they have a halliard, downhaul, tack, and
sheets which are fitted port and starboard.
With sails removed, the sheets and tack are
generally removed along with the sails. The
halliard and downhaul can remain and hooked
together. Place the hook point just above the
downhaul block which is seized to the lower
end of the stay just above the jibboom.
The downhauls belay to the cleats on top of
the bowsprit inboard as shown on the belaying
diagram.
The fore staysail does not have a downhaul.
Bring the halliard down to the deck and hook
it to the bottom of the forestay on one of the
bullseye lanyards.
Topside, all halliards feed thru a single block
seized at the mast or on the stay as shown on
the plans. The halliards then go to the deck
and are belayed to belaying pins on the fore
fife rail. Refer to the belaying diagram on
plan Sheet 2.
Figure H-1 illustrates some of the staysail
rigging.
2. Main Staysail Rigging
The main staysail, main topmast staysail, and
main topgallant staysail rig is similar to the fore-
mast staysails with the following exceptions:
Halliards - The halliards feed thru single
blocks seized to the top of the stays. The belay-
ing diagram does not specifically indicate
where these lines are belayed. Belay the main
topgallant staysail halliard to spare pin 52 on
the port pin rail. Belay the main topmast stay-
sail halliard to spare pin 59 on the starboard
pin rail. Belay the main staysail halliard to
spare pin 45 on the main fife rail.
Downhauls - The blocks for the downhauls
are located differently from the fore staysails.
However, just hook the halliards to the down-
haul just above the blocks. The downhauls
belay to the fore fife rail.
3. Spanker & Gaff Topsail Rigging
With no sails you must decide how to display
the gaff; up or down. The appropriate decision
is down and about parallel with the boom.
Some modelers like it up to fill the space aft of
the mast. You can do this but with no vangs on
this particular rig, the gaff would tend to flop
sideways. One solution is to glue or pin the jaff
jaws to the mast.
We will assume the gaff is down and proceed on
that basis. You were advised earlier to add mast
hoops on the mainmast before it was installed.
You should have some mast hoops for the
spanker and the gaff topsail on the mast. How-
ever, these are not supplied in the kit. Ignore
them or make your own from wood or use
some brass rings.
Boom T
opping Lift & Boom Sheet - Rig the
topping lift first to position the boom, then the
sheet to hold it down. The topping lift is fixed
to an eyebolt at the mast cap. Rig the running
tackle below the boom and belay it to the cleat
on the starboard side of the boom (Figure H-2).
The lower block for the boom sheet is hooked
to an eyebolt on centerline at the deck. The two
hauling ends belay to cleats on the bulwark port
and starboard (Figure H-3).
Spanker Outhaul - Tie a knot at the outer end
of the boom, run the outhaul thru the hole in
the boom and belay it to the cleat on the port
side of the boom.
Gaff Throat and Peak Halliards - Rig the hal-
liards per the plan. The peak halliard goes down
on the starboard side and belays to the starboard
pin rail on the bulwark. The throat halliard goes
gown on the port side and belays on the fife rail.
T
o prevent the gaff from swinging sideways,
loop a line around the aft end of the boom and
gaff (Figure H-4).
Gaff Topsail Inhaul & Outhaul - With the
sails off hook the inhaul and outhaul together
just above the gaff. The outhaul passes thru a
hole in the gaff and belays to a cleat on the star-
board side of the boom. The inhaul passes thru
a block under the gaff jaws, then belays to the
fife rail (port side).
Gaff Topsail Halliard, & Downhaul - Hook
the halliard and downhaul somewhere near the
mainmast top. The downhaul goes to port and
belays to pin 41 on the fife rail. The halliard
goes to starboard and belays to pin 44 on the
fife rail.
Flag Halliard- The flag halliard belays to the
cavil on the starboard bulwark. However, with
the gaff in the down position the line would be
draping across the deck, so it is best to leave the
halliard off.
STAGE H: RUNNING RIGGING
FIG. H-1 STAYSAIL RIGGING FIG. H-2 BOOM TOPPING LIFT
SINGLE BLOCK
ST
AY
SEIZE
BLOCK
TO STAY
EYEBOLT IN
CAP
TOPPING
LIFT
HOLE IN
BOOM
MAINMAST
COLLAR
AROUND BOOM
CLEAT(S)
BELAY
STOP
CHOCKP/S
HALLIARD
HOOK
TOGETHER
DOWNHAUL