Model Shipways Rattlesnake MASSACHUSETTS PRIVATEER User manual

MODEL SHIPWAYS KIT NO. MS2028
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Technical Characteristics
Scale: 3/16” = 1’ 0” (1: 64)
Overall Length: 28”
Overall Width: 9”
Overall Height: 18”
Hull Width: 4-1/4"
Rattlesnake
MASSACHUSETTS PRIVATEER

Instruction Manual
Massachusetts Privateer
Rattlesnake
1780
By George F. Campbell, 1963
Plank-On-Bulkhead Construction and Manual
By Ben Lankford, 1994
Model built by Bob Bruetsch
The Model Shipways Hull and Rigging plans for Rattlesnake were prepared in 1963 by
Mr. George F. Campbell, who passed away several years ago. Mr. Campbell was a noted
British marine artist, author, naval architect, and historian. He was a member of the
Royal Institution of Naval Architects. One of his most noteworthy publications is China
Tea Clippers. He also developed the drawings for the Cutty Sark restoration in England
and authored Model Shipways' model handbook, Neophyte Shipmodeler's Jackstay.
The Model Shipways plans prepared by Mr. Campbell are based on Admiralty
draughts and a reconstruction originally published by Howard I. Chapelle in his book,
The History of American Sailing Ships, and also The Search for Speed Under Sail. The rig-
ging and deck equipment is based on contemporary texts.
The Model Shipways kit of Rattlesnake initially offered a solid hull model. This kit has
now been converted to a Plank-On-Bulkhead type hull. The P-O-B hull plans were
prepared in 1994 by Ben Lankford along with this complete new instruction manual.
Copyright 1994
Model Shipways
Sold & Distributed by Model Expo, a Division of Model Shipways, Inc.
Hollywood, FL • www.modelexpo-online.com
2

Brief History
It was supposedly in 1781 that Rattlesnake was
built as a privateer at Plymouth, Massachusetts
for a Salem syndicate; John Andrews, and oth-
ers. The Preble Papers in the Massachusetts
Historical Society indicate that the designer and
builder was John Peck of Boston. She was first
commissioned on June 12, 1781 with Master
Mark Clark at the helm. This, however, is early
in the year. Consequently, there is some ques-
tion about the actual building date. The ship
could have been under construction in 1780 or
earlier.
During 1781, at a time when privateering was
losing its luster, British frigates still lay off the
coasts of noteworthy American colonial towns,
keeping tabs on shipbuilding departures, and
raiding shipping centers. It was along these
routes that Rattlesnake met her fate when she was
captured by British 44-gun H.M.S. Assurance.
Rattlesnake was sent to England where she was
taken into the Royal Navy and renamed Cor-
morant. Her hull lines were taken at the Ply-
mouth Dockyard in 1782. In 1783, when the
Admiralty found out they already had a ship
named Cormorant, the ship was again named
Rattlesnake. In 1784 or 1786, she was sold out of
Naval service. Beyond that her history is not
clear. One source says she was used by the
French as a privateer and named Le Tonnant,
but this is not confirmed by any authority.
Despite her moderate size, Rattlesnake was ship-
rigged and impressive in appearance and feature
beyond her broadside strength. The ship was 89'
3" long on deck, with a molded beam of 22', a
mean draft of 8' 1-1/2", and 198-70/94th tons
burthen. Her molded displacement was 221.3
long tons. Along with 85 men, she carried twenty
6-pounders only, a psychological ploy no doubt,
but her lines reveal a fast and weatherly ship.
More History
For a fascinating history and technical discus-
sion of privateering ships, and more detail on
the Rattlesnake, refer to The History of American
Sailing Ships and The Search for Speed Under Sail
listed in the bibliography.
3

4
CONSTRUCTION STAGES & TABLE OF CONTENTS
Brief History Pg 3
Introduction/Credits Pg 2
Before You Begin Pg 5
What You'll Need to Start Construction Pg 5
How to Work With the Plans & Parts Pg 6
Painting & Staining the Model Pg 7
Stage A: Framing the Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull Pg 8
1. Bending Wood Pg 8
2. Center Keel Assembly Pg 8
3. Installing the Keel/Stem & Sternpost Pg 8
4. Cutting the Rabbet Pg 8
5. Installing the Bulkheads Pg 8
6. Installing the Transom Framing & Transom Pg 10
7. Installing the Bow & Stern Filler Blocks Pg 12
8. Covering the Mast Slots Pg 12
9. Installing the Gun Deck Waterway
& Upper Deck Covering Boards Pg 12
10. Installing the Knightheads & Timerheads Pg 12
11. Installing the Main, Forecastle
& Quarter Deck Rails Pg 13
12. Installing the Forecastle
& Quarter Deck Breast Beams Pg 13
13. Installing the Gunport Framing Pg 13
Stage B: Planking the Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull Pg 14
1. Getting Started Pg 14
2. Planking Battens & Belts Pg 14
3. Planking Butts Pg 14
4. Spiling Pg 15
5. Fastening the Planks Pg 15
6. Planking the Outer Hull Pg 15
7. Planking Inboard (Ceiling Planks) Pg 18
8. Planking the Decks Pg 18
Stage C: Completing the Basic Hull Structure Pg 19
1. Correcting & Sanding Pg 19
2. Building the Head Rails Pg 19
3. Gunport Lids Pg 19
4. Building the Gangways Pg 19
5. Natural Wood/Double Plank Option Pg 19
Stage D: Mounting the Hull Pg 20
1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals Pg 20
2. Launching Ways Pg 21
Stage E: Adding the Hull Details Pg 21
1. Locating Deck Fittings & Structures Pg 21
2. Topsail Sheet Bitts, Fore Brace Bitts,
Riding Bitts & Gallows Bitts Pg 21
3. Ladders Pg 21
4. Hatches & Gratings Pg 21
5. Binnacle Pg 21
6. Capstan Pg 21
7. Catheads & Anchors Pg 21
8. Elm Pumps Pg 24
9. Kevels & Chesstrees Pg 24
10. Galley Chimney Pg 24
11. Channels Pg 24
12. Deck Buckets Pg 24
13. Eyebolts & Cleats Pg 24
14. Rudder & Tiller Pg 24
15. Quarter Badges Pg 25
16. Cannons Pg 25
17. Ship's Name Pg 26
18. Ship's Longboat Pg 26
Stage F: Mast & Spar Construction Pg 27
1. The Importance of Scale Pg 27
2. Shaping & Tapering the Masts & Spars Pg 27
3. Building & Installing the Masts Pg 27
4. Building & Installing the Bowsprit & Jibboom Pg 29
5. Building the Lower, Crossjack, Topsail,
Topgallant & Spritsail Yards Pg 31
6. Building the Spanker Gaff & Boom Pg 31
Stage G: General Rigging & Sailmaking Information Pg 31
Rigging Terms Defined
1. Rigging Options Pg 31
2. Using the Rigging Plan Pg 32
3. Rigging Line & Block Sizes Pg 32
4. Treating the Lines Pg 33
5. Belaying Pins & Their Lines Pg 33
6. Rigging Tools Pg 34
7. Blocks & Deadeyes Pg 34
8. Sailmaking Pg 34
9. Rigging the Model Without Sails Pg 36
Stage H: Standing Rigging Pg 37
1. Shrouds Pg 37
2. Backstays Pg 37
3. Fore & Aft Stays Pg 37
4. Detail at the Tops Pg 37
5. Bowsprit Rigging Pg 37
6. Footropes Pg 37
Stage I: Running Rigging Pg 41
1. Fore Staysail, Fore Topmast Staysail & Jib Pg 41
2. Fore and Main Course,
& Mizzen Crossjack Yard Pg 41
3. Fore, Main & Mizzen Topsails Pg 41
4. Fore & Main Topgallant Sails Pg 43
5. Spanker Pg 43
6. Spritsail & Spritsail Topsail Pg 43
7. Miscellaneous Rigging Pg 43
Final Touches Pg 43
Scale Conversion Table Pg 44
Rigging Line Diameters Pg 44
Millimeters/Inches Conversion Chart Pg 44
Bibliography Pg 45

5
The Rattlesnake is a very beautiful ship
and makes a splendid model. The
plank-on-bulkhead hull construction
with laser-cut parts offers a unique
building experience. It assures an accu-
rate hull form, and develops an under-
standing of how real ships are con-
structed.
The kit is supplied with a set of Britan-
nia, brass, and wooden fittings to elim-
inate problems in making or machin-
ing such parts from scratch, which
may be beyond the ability or resources
of the average modeler. Many of these
fittings, however, will require final fin-
ishing before they are suitable for in-
stallation on the model. This will be es-
pecially true for the Britannia fittings
and will be discussed later.
This kit will provide less experienced
modelers with the opportunity to ac-
quire some scratch-building tech-
niques. As an aid, various techniques
will appear throughout the instruc-
tions. While the modeling progresses,
you will see where you may want to
substitute some of the kit fittings with
your own creations. By all means try
them, especially if you think you can
improve the model. The worst that can
happen is a little lost time. But, the ex-
perience gained will be most valuable
for future projects.
If you are a beginner, take your time.
This model has a fair amount of detail
and small parts. Make sure you com-
plete one stage before moving to the
next. When things go awry, consider
doing it over.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
J. Finishing
1. Paint Brushes
a. fine point for details
b. 1/4" to 1/2" flat square
for hull
K. Supplies
(will be covered in detail in the
Painting & Staining section and
throughout the instructions)
1. Paints
2. Primer
3. Stains and varnish
4. White or Carpenter's (yellow)
wood glue
5. Super glue
6. Five-minute epoxy glue
7. Wood filler
Note about glues: White glue, or Car-
penter's wood glue (yellow in color; also
available in tan color), will suffice for
most of the model. Five-minute epoxy
provides extra strength for gluing fit-
tings. Cyanoacrylate glue (super glue),
such as Jet, can be used for quick adhe-
sion and is ideal for adding a touch to a
rigging seizing to hold it in place. The
best super glue for most applications is
a medium viscosity gap filling type. The
watery thin type is recommended to fill
a narrow crack by capillary action, and
for quickly securing hull planking to the
bulkheads.
The following tools and supplies are rec-
ommended for the construction process.
Modelers who have built before may
have their own favorites.
A. Knives
1. Hobby knife
2. No.11 blades
B. Files
Set of needle files
C. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Wooden clothespins
3. Rubber bands, #16 and #33
D. Tool Set
A small carving tool set or
individual gouges and chisels
for carving center keel rabbets,
the counter block, stern and
bow filler blocks, tapering the
stem, and carving the ship's
longboat.
E. Sharpening Stone
Necessary to keep tools razor sharp
F. Boring Tools
1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80
2. 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" drills
3. Pin vise
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. small round
b. flat nose
5. Bench vise (small)
6. Soldering iron or torch
a. solder
b. flux
7. Sewing thread (for seizing;
other rigging in kit)
a. black
b. tan
8. Beeswax block (for treating
rigging lines)
9. 1/2" or 3/4" masking tape
10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine
wire and strip metal)
H. Sandpaper
Fine and medium grit garnet or
aluminum oxide sandpaper
(#100 to #220)
I. Sail cloth
Light weave cotton or linen cloth if
you intend to add sails. A suitable
cotton cloth is available from Model
Expo.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION

6
You may need to make adjustments or
allow for small differences in how your
model is shaping up; perhaps your mast
has too much rake (the angle at which it
sits). When lines go to belaying points
they should not drape over parts or con-
flict with other lines. If necessary, move a
belaying point or a fairlead. In other
words, put yourself on the ship and use
your judgement.
3. Understanding Hull Lines
Beginners may not be familiar with hull
lines. Buttock lines are vertical longitu-
dinal planes cut through the hull. Wa-
terlines are horizontal planes, and sec-
tions are transverse vertical planes. All
of these lines define the hull shape and
are used by the draftsman to fair the
hull form (create regular even curves).
A complete set of hull lines is shown on
the George Campbell plans but they are
not really needed for this particular
model. With the plank-on-bulkhead
construction, the laser-cut bulkheads
and center keel define the hull form.
These are based on the Rattlesnake hull
lines to outside of the planking, but are
made smaller to allow for the thickness
created by adding the planks.
4. Using Basswood Lumber
Standard cut basswood is available in
sheets and strips. Normally, thickness is
available in 1/32", 1/16", 3/32", 1/8",
5/32", 3/16", 1/4", and 1/2". Widths of
strips are available in the same incre-
ments. Sheets may be 1", 2", 3", or 4". A
thickness of 3/64" is also a manufac-
tured thickness, but not found in many
catalogs. However, if needed, it will be
provided in Model Shipways kits.
Note: Your kit may contain European
limewood instead of the basswood most
of us are familiar with. For further infor-
mation see the notes in the parts list.
For the model scale 3/16" = 1' 0", 1/64"
is equal to 1" full ship size. 1/32" is
equal to 2", and so on. Generally, the
available sizes of basswood fit the full
ship size quite well and the strips or
sheets can be used directly. Occasional-
ly, you will find a size where the strip
must be thinner than the basswood size
supplied. In order to use a correct thick-
ness, you will need to sand down a cer-
tain thickness of basswood. This is easi-
ly done with a sanding block before
making a part.
If you are fortunate enough to own a
powered sanding thickness planer for
models, all the better. These can be pur-
chased commercially. You can also make
Before starting model construction, ex-
amine the kit and study the plans care-
fully. Familiarizing yourself with the kit
will serve two purposes. First, it will let
you determine that all parts have been
supplied as listed. And second, you'll be
surprised at just how quickly handling
the parts allows you to better under-
stand the kit requirements. Try to visu-
alize how every part will look on the
completed model. Also, determine
ahead of time what must be done first.
The instructions will help you in this re-
gard, but a thorough knowledge of the
plans at the outset is essential.
It is suggested that all small fittings and
hardware be sorted into labeled boxes or
compartments to avoid loss during the
building process.
1. The Plans
Four Plan Sheets are provided:
1963 Plans by George Campbell:
1. Hull Details and Lines Plan
2. Rigging Plan
1994 Plans by Ben Lankford:
3. Laser-Cut Wood Patterns
4. Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull Construction
In addition, a set of sketches appears
throughout this instruction manual to
further illustrate the various stages of
construction.
The Rattlesnake kit is manufactured to a
scale of 3/16" = 1' 0". Each plan sheet is
drawn to the exact scale that the model
is to be built, except where some details
have been enlarged for clarity. Most di-
mensions can be lifted directly off the
plans by using a set of draftsman di-
viders or by using a "tick" strip, which is
simply a piece of paper used to "pick
up" the dimensions (a roll of calculator
tape works very well). Lay your paper
strip over the plan and mark the lengths
of items carefully with a sharp pencil.
Then use the strip to transfer the marks
to the wood or item to be made to scale.
It is handy to have a triangular architect's
scale. Measuring and cutting parts using
the 3/16" scale gives you a better feel for
real ship sizes. It also gives you a con-
version for the full ship size dimensions
shown on the plans. At 3/16" scale, one
inch in full ship size equals 1/64". Keep
this in mind as you work. You will soon
know, for example, that if you see some-
thing 4 inches wide full scale, your
model part will be 1/16".
2. Making Allowances Along the Way
Try to be exact when following the plans,
but use common sense along the way.
your own using a drum sander in a drill
press. Clamp a block alongside the sander
so the wood can be inserted between the
block and sander. It's a makeshift deal,
but it works quite well.
It is a good idea to sort the wood con-
tained in the kit by thickness. When
building a certain part, select a suitable
size from the proper thickness pile. After
cutting what you need, return the remain-
ing piece to that thickness pile. This saves
a lot of time looking for a given thickness.
Don't worry about using a piece for one
item that was intended for another. It will
all come out in the wash. There is enough
extra wood in the kit so you should not
run out before you complete the model.
5. Cast-Metal Fittings
The kit is supplied with Britannia metal
castings. The Britannia metal is a great
improvement over the white metal that
was used in some older kits. Unlike
white metal and pewter, Britannia does
not contain lead, so there are no possible
corrosion problems. Many of these fit-
tings, however, will require final finish-
ing before they are suitable for installing
on the model.
Before painting the cast-metal fittings,
clean them up by removing all the mold-
joint flash. To do this, use a No. 11
hobby blade to cut the flash, then file or
sand with fine sandpaper. It is also sug-
gested that you clean the fittings thor-
oughly with warm soapy water before
applying primer. Make sure they are
rinsed thoroughly and allowed to dry
before painting.
6. Soldering & Working with Brass
The Rattlesnake is a ship from a period
that had very little iron fittings. Conse-
quently, you will not be required to do
much soldering, if any. Gudgeons, pin-
tles, and chain plates could be soldered
or simply glued. If you do solder, the se-
cret is to keep the parts to be soldered
clean, and keep the end of your soldering
iron clean and well tinned. File or sand
the parts, then keep your fingers off. Heat
the parts first, then touch the solder. File
off any excess solder.
HOW TO WORK WITH THE PLANS & PARTS

7
It may seem strange to begin an instruc-
tion manual with directions on applying
the finishes to the model. Not so! Much
time and effort can be saved, and a more
professional result can be obtained, if
the finishing process is carried out dur-
ing construction. Proper timing in appli-
cation of finishes and the use of masking
tape to define painted edges should
eliminate unsightly glue marks and
splotchy stained surfaces. In the end,
following these general suggestions will
be to your advantage.
Paint
Use a flat-finish paint such as the model
paints made by Floquil, Polly-S, Testors,
Humbrol, and Model Masters. You
could also use artist's paints by Jo Sonja
(used by many bird carvers) or Holbein
Acryla Gouache. These paints are a
combination acrylic-gouache.
Paint Colors
The recommended color scheme for the
Rattlesnake is as follows:
Topside Rails: Yellow Ochre
Quarter Deck Outboard Bulwark
Planking between Rails: Black
Outboard Planking from Rails down to
the top of Wales: Yellow Ochre
A Parallel Band about 1/2" wide from
top of the Wales, and including the
Upper part of the Stem: Black
Head Rails: Yellow Ochre
Hull Bottom below the Black Band:
White or Tallow (or lighter tallow plus
white). Note: Tallow is an ivory color
and is available pre-mixed in Floquil
model paint available from Model Expo.
Stern Window Frames: White
Center Dummy Window Panes: Pale
Blue
Figurehead: Any bright colors
Bulwarks Inboard: Grey
Decking: Natural light Tan or Grey
stain with low sheen varnish
Masts, Spars and Deck Bitts: Burnt Si-
enna stain, or any Tan/Maple colored
stain with low sheen varnish
Tops & Doublings (top up and includ-
ing mast caps), and Bands around Fore
and Main Mast: Black
Longboat: Tallow or White bottom, Nat-
ural varnished sides and interior (Tan or
Maple stain), Black outboard molding
and Red spray rail
Ironwork: Black
Standing Rigging: Tarred (Black or
Dark Brown)
Running Rigging: Tan or Weathered
Grey
Primer
Use a Grey primer. Floquil is excellent.
The Grey color will highlight sanding
scratches and other defects better than
White primer. Prime all woodwork to be
painted, and prime all metal fittings.
Lightly sand the primed items. Use a
spackling compound, such as Pic-n-
Patch brand, to fill any scratches and de-
fects, then re-prime. Careful! Do not
prime parts to be stained or varnished.
Stains & Finishes
For natural finished wood, use a protec-
tive coating after staining such as low
sheen polyurethane varnish or the Flo-
quil coatings. You can also use an oil-
resin mix such as natural Minwax. Flo-
quil stain, or Minwax stains can be used
to tone the wood.
Brushes & Procedures
Use good quality soft sable or synthetic
hair artist brushes. A small pointed
brush is good for details. For the main
hull areas, use a 1/4- to 1/2-inch flat
brush.
Before painting, clean the model with a
tack rag. Apply your paint in smooth
even strokes, overlapping the strokes as
you go. Thin the paint enough to elimi-
nate brush strokes, but not run. You will
need four or five coats of the light colors
to cover the Grey primer, and maybe
only two coats of the dark. Check your
finish between coats, and sand or add
spackle as necessary to get rid of any
blemishes.
Anywhere two colors meet, use masking
tape. Electrician's black plastic tape is
ideal. It leaves a nice edge and is not
overly sticky. Do not use drafting tape.
The edges are wrinkled and paint may
run under them.
PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL

8
STAGE A
FRAMING THE
PLANK-ON-BULKHEAD HULL
1. Bending Wood
Building a P-O-B hull requires some
wood bending and twisting, and the
wood must remain in the desired posi-
tion so as not to put too much stress on
glue joints and fasteners. The term
"steam-bent" will be used throughout
the text whenever such a process is nec-
essary. However, here are three ways to
bend wood.
Steam-bending - For actual steam-bend-
ing, hold the piece over a kettle of
steaming water and bend. Hold the
wood in position until it cools. It should
remain nearly in that position, but may
spring back slightly.
Soaking - Another method is to soak the
piece in warm water for several hours.
Try adding a little household ammonia
to the water. You can also use pure am-
monia. This speeds up the soaking pro-
cess and makes the wood fibers slippery
so the wood is easily bent. Hold the
wood in position with a form after soak-
ing and let it dry completely.
Hot iron - You may also bend wood
quickly over a soldering iron, but don't
let it get too hot. A large soldering iron
with a tubular end is ideal. The tube near
the handle is not as hot as the very end.
It is also possible to purchase model
plank-bending irons commercially. They
are designed for controlled heat.
2. Center Keel Assembly
The first step in constructing the hull is
to assemble the two laser-cut center keel
pieces. First, use a sharp pencil and
mark the bulkhead locations below the
slots and the WL reference line. This
line is used to locate Bulkheads "A"
through "M" on the center keel. Mark on
both sides of each center keel piece. Be
especially critical in locating the refer-
ence line. Measure from several points
from the plans. The reference line is a
key to proper alignment.
Place the two parts, 1 and 2, over a sheet
of wax paper or plastic wrap, on a flat
building board or table. Glue the joint
with white or carpenter's wood glue.
Use a steel or aluminum straight edge
to align the WL reference line. Place a
weight on each piece to hold it down
while the glue dries. Let the glue dry at
least overnight, preferably 24 hours (see
figure 1).
3. Installing the Keel, Stem
& Sternpost
For this particular model, the center keel
is only 5/32" thick. With 1/16" hull
planking, after cutting a rabbet on both
sides, there is not much left of the center
keel for attaching the keel, stem and
sternpost. Consequently, it is recom-
mended that you first install the keel,
then cut the rabbet as you add planking.
The keel will remain secure along most
of the hull by this approach.
The keel, stem, and sternpost should
now be added. Taper the stem as shown
on the plans before installing it. Dowels
can be used to help align and hold the
pieces (see figure 2).
4. Cutting the Rabbet
With the keel now in place, the rabbet is
the glue line between the center keel and
the keel. The bearding line is the inter-
section of the center keel and the inside
face of hull planks. Mark the bearding
line on both sides. The bearding line ap-
pears along the sternpost, keel, and
stem. Measure from the P-O-B plans.
Use a hobby knife and cut the rabbet to a
depth of about 1/32". Cut on or slightly
above the glue joint. Now, using a chisel,
start the rabbet cut at the bearding line
and cut toward the rabbet . When the
planking is installed, the planks will lie
flush on the cut portion from bearding
line to rabbet (see figure 3). As you cut
the rabbet, continue to use the hobby
knife to gradually work your way down
to the full 1/16" depth for the rabbet to
fit the planks.
5. Installing the Bulkheads
The bulkheads are labeled Athrough M.
Compare the laser-cut bulkheads with
the plans to determine which is which
and label each bulkhead. Check each
bulkhead to make sure it will slide into
the center keel slots. Machine tolerances
during laser cutting may provide a too
tight fit. Sand the slots, if necessary,
until the bulkheads slip on. The fit
should be snug. You need a little toler-
ance for glue.
The bulkheads include cutouts at the gun
deck. Also, the bulkheads include exten-
sions for rail stanchions. These areas are
only 1/16" thick, so be careful handling
them to avoid breakage. After the stan-
chions have been planked, with hull
planks on the outboard side and ceiling
planks on the inboard side, the shell will
have obtained maximum strength.
On each bulkhead, mark the location of
the WL reference line in pencil. This
mark should line up with the WL mark
on the center keel. This alignment as-
sures that the hull form is accurate and
that each bulkhead is correctly related to
the others.
FIG. 1 - Assembling The Two Center Keel Pieces
Wax paper or
plastic wrap
Building board
or table
Glue joint
Weight
Straight edge to align
reference line

9
FIG. 4 - Shaping The Bulkheads FIG. 5 - Installing The Bulkheads
Next, mark the bevels on the bulkheads.
Use a tick strip to transfer the bevel line
as shown on the plans, or cut the bulk-
head patterns from the plan and glue
them onto the bulkheads. You can also
lay the patterns over the bulkheads and
use a pin prick to locate the bevels. Cut
the bevels with a #11 hobby knife blade
as shown (see figure 4).
Some of the bevels are very slight, espe-
cially the deck bevels and the side
bevels near amidships. These slight
bevels are not drawn because they are
hardly measurable. They can be sanded
after the bulkheads are installed instead
of pre-cutting them.
Glue the bulkheads in place, making
sure that the WL marks on the bulk-
heads and the center keel line up. Use a
square to make each bulkhead perpen-
dicular to the center keel, then tack a
temporary strip to the top to hold the
bulkhead in place while the glue dries
(see figure 5).
After all bulkheads are in place, tack or
tape a temporary batten on each side of
the hull just below the gun deck as shown
(see figure 6). This is a critical step. Mea-
sure the spacing between bulkheads and
retack the battens until the hull is aligned.
Even though the center keel was assem-
bled flat, it could warp out of line. The re-
sult could be that you wind up with a ba-
nana-shaped hull. Check the spacings be-
tween bulkheads, and port against star-
board spacings. Look at the hull to see if it
is properly aligned.
When you are satisfied that the hull is
aligned, check that the bottom of each
bulkhead feathers out and lies precisely
on the bearding line. Trim as necessary
to line up. Also, check that the top of
each bulkhead at the centerline is flush
with the top of the center keel. Since all
alignment is based on the WL marks,
there could be some slight errors. Sand
or add shims as necessary until the
bulkheads and center keel surfaces are
flush (see figure 7).
FIG. 2 - Installing The Keel, Stem & Stern
FIG. 3 - Cutting The Rabbet in The Center Keel
Add dowels as necessary
Taper
Glue scarf joints
Add keel/stem
Add
sternpost
1
2
3
4
Cut with
wood grain
Rabbet
Bearding line
Slot with knife
Chisel
Hobby knife
Hobby
knife
Bevel
inside
also
Deck bevel
Bevel marked
with pencil
BHD Tack or
tape strip
until
glue
dries
Check 90°
with square
Ref. lines
must line
up

10
Next, check the fairness of the hull form
and sand in the slight bevels that were
not pre-cut. To do this, use a stiff bass-
wood batten about 3/32" thick and lay it
across the bulkhead edges and decks in
various locations (see figure 8). If not
fair, sand the bevels that stick out, or
add shim material if there are dips. This
is an important check. When you start
planking, the planks must lie flat against
the bulkheads without incurring any
bumps and dips on the surface. A model
like Rattlesnake has many bulkheads, so
it is possible for manufacturing or as-
sembly errors to creep in.
6. Installing the Transom
Framing & Transom
Carve the counter block, and glue it to
the aft side of Bulkhead M and on top of
the center keel. Glue the port and star-
board laser-cut outboard transom sup-
port pieces and two inboard transom
supports on top of the counter block.
The forward end of the outboard pieces
fit against the Bulkhead M bulwark
stanchion extensions.
Follow the plans when carving the
counter block. The bottom of the block
has the counter curve. The forward side
matches Bulkhead M . The aft side of
the block indicates the slope and curva-
ture of the transom. At the center, there
is a cut-out so the rudder stock can pass
through (see figure 9).
The transom is a laser-cut piece. While it
was made up of planks over stern frames
on the real ship, for the model a solid
piece has been provided so no planking
is required. Glue the transom to the side
and center supports (see figure 10).
There are two openings on each side of
the transom for windows, and at the
center for a fake window. The window
frames are laser-cut and can be inserted
in the holes. First cover the inside with
plastic sheet and paint light blue or
black. The center window was a dummy
window on the real ship. Paint the panes
pale blue. Add the outside frames with
1/32" strip, sanded half-round. Add the
lower moldings as shown in the sketch.
The stern carving is supplied as a Britan-
nia fitting, but you can carve your own
from wood if desired. If you use the fit-
ting, it will need shaping a bit to fit the
transom. Cut sloped edges as required.
After the planking is done you must add
the fashion piece at the transom. This is
discussed now to avoid any confusion
(see figure 11). Finally, drill some holes
in the top edge of the transom to receive
the rail stanchions.
FIG. 6 - Aligning The Bulkheads, Using Battens
FIG. 7 - Making Sure Bulkhead & Center Keel Surfaces Are Flush
FIG. 8 - Check The Fairness Of The Hull Form
Check alignment
visually in all directions
Check spacing
Check straightness of
center keel with
straight edge
Tack temporary batten
on bulkheads
Sand flush with
top of bulkheads
if necessary
Line up with reference line
on center keel
Bearding line
Trim if necessary to line
up on the bearding line
Smooth
flow into
rabbet
Needs shim
(gap) Needs trimming
(bump)
Good Good
Heavy batten across several bulkheads to check fairness

11
FIG. 10 - Installing The Transom FIG. 11 - Installing The Two
Fashion Pieces
FIG. 9 - Carving The Counter Block At Bulkhead “M”
Carved counter block
Inboard transom
support–P/S
Side transom
support–P/S
BHD “M”
Side support Inboard support
Glue
Glue
Glue
Laser-cut transom Bend to curve of
counter block
Fashion piece
Fashion piece curves in 2 directions,
so it must be custom carved
(Side view) (Front view)
BHD = Bulkhead
P/S = port/starboard

12
7. Installing the Bow & Stern
Filler Blocks
Forward of Bulkhead A and aft of Bulk-
head M, add the filler blocks as shown
on the plans. Carve the blocks to the hull
form. The purpose of these blocks is to
have more support where the planks
take a severe curve. You will still need to
steam bend planks at the ends, but with
the blocks in place, the planks are not as
likely to break as they pass over the last
bulkheads. In addition, the forward
block gives a solid piece for inserting the
timberheads and knightheads forward
(see figure 12).
8. Covering the Mast Slots
On both sides of the mast slots in the
center keel, add the pieces shown on the
P-O-B plan. Cut from scrap wood. Glue
them securely, because you can't get to
them after the decking is installed. The
mast slots are slightly larger than the ac-
tual mast. The mast can be wedged in
the hole when installed.
9. Installing the Gun Deck
Waterway & Upper Deck
Covering Boards
At the gun deck level, add the waterway
along the deck edge inboard of the bulk-
head extensions (see figure 13). You can
omit the waterway in the officer's quar-
ters since it cannot be seen.
At the forecastle deck, the covering
boards at the edge of the deck as shown
in the sketch are laser-cut. Add these
next. Aft, add the covering boards as
shown on the plans and the sketch.
These must be made from stripwood.
Actually, this is a fake covering board.
You will have a separate piece inboard
and a separate piece outboard instead of
a solid piece fitted over frames. For the
outboard piece, plank the hull first, then
add the strip, or use the option shown
on the plans for a single piece.
10. Installing the Knightheads
& Timberheads
Make the knightheads and timberheads
and install them in a notch in the for-
ward filler block (see figure 12).
FIG. 12 - Installing The Bow Filler Block
FIG. 13 - Gun Deck Waterway & Upper Deck Covering Boards
Slots for knighthead
& timberhead
Carved filler block
FILLER BLOCK AT BOW
BHD “A”
Waterway from
1/8” sq. strip
Gun deck
Laser-cut
board
Focsl
Gun
(FWD)
Inboard covering
board from
stripwood
QTR
Outboard strip over
plank or use one single
piece as an option
Option:
Omit AFT
(AFT)
Gun

13
11. Installing the Main, Forecastle
& Quarter Deck Rails
Because the forecastle deck has more
curvature, it has been laser cut for you.
Cut all the other rails from strip wood.
At the forecastle deck, first make and in-
sert the rail stanchions in the pre-cut
holes in the covering board. When
adding rails, use a pin or dowel for align-
ment and for securing the rail atop the
stanchions and bulwarks (see figure 14).
At the various steps, you will need to
create scroll work from one rail to the
other. Carve these scrolls as shown (see
figure 15).
12. Installing the Forecastle &
Quarter Deck Breast Beams
The breast beams forward and aft must
be added before you do the deck plank-
ing. The aft beam ties into a bulkhead but
the forward beam has nothing yet at the
sides to tie into. Add a strut between
bulkheads for end support (see figure 16).
13. Installing the Gunport Framing
Use 1/16"–square strips to frame the
gunports and the small oar ports in the
hull. The strips fit between the bulk-
heads (see figure 17).
Most of the basic framing is now com-
plete and you are ready to start plank-
ing. Take a moment to look over what
you have so far. Recheck the fairness of
the hull. Making corrections now will
allow the planking process to go
smoothly.
FIG. 14 - Installing The Main, Forecastle & Quarter Deck Rails
FIG. 16 - Installing The Forecastle
& Quarter Deck Breast
Beams
FIG. 17 - Installing The Gunport
Framing
FIG. 15 - Carving The Scrolls For The Rails
Dowel or pin
Laser-cut rail
Stanchions
Laser-cut forecastle
covering board
Upper rail Carve scroll
Lower rail
Glue
Beam
BHD “C”
End
support
strut
Breast beam forward
BHD “D”
Gun port
1/16” sq.
framing
strips
Oar port

14
STAGE B
Planking the
Plank-On-Bulkhead Hull
Before getting started, it 's a good idea
to know some of the more common
shipbuilding terms that apply to the
planking process. Consider the follow-
ing few key words as you work:
1. A plank is a single length of wood
used for planking a hull or deck. A
planking strake is a continuous line of
planks, butted against each other from
bow to stern, or wherever the strake be-
gins or ends.
2. A garboard strake is that strake of
planking adjacent to the keel.
3. The sheer strake is the uppermost
main hull strake.
4. The wale is a heavy layer of strakes
below the sheer strake along the hull's
side. For the Rattlesnake the upper edge
of the wale protrudes beyond the plank-
ing above. However, there is no lower
wale edge. The heavier wale planks
gradually taper into the lower planking
so the hull surface is flush from the top
edge of the wale down to the keel rabbet.
5. When discussing planking belts, we
are talking about a group of planks
along the hull. Belts are laid out using
battens, which are temporary strips of
flexible wood used to locate the belt. A
ribband is also a batten, used on boats
and ships to hold the frames in place
while the planking is being added. Rib-
bands are removed as the planking is
completed.
6. Spiling is a term used to describe a
process for marking and cutting a plank
to a given shape.
7. Edge bending, also called springing, is
when you bend a plank edgewise.
8. When planking, the use of the word
fair refers to smooth, gradual curves.
9. Nib or nibbing is where one plank runs
into another at a sharp angle. In order to
eliminate the feathered edge, the plank
is cut off on the end and it is fitted into a
similar cut in the other plank. Nibbing is
generally applied to decks, but hull
planks also can be nibbed.
10. A stealer is a plank inserted into an-
other plank , or notched in between two
adjacent planks when the planks be-
come too wide. Or, when two planks are
tapering toward a narrow end, it may be
necessary to cut off both planks, then
substitute a wider plank to continue so
there will be enough wood left for fas-
tening the end of the plank. I'm at a loss
for the proper term for this. One model
publication calls it a joggle plank, but I'm
not sure about that. Stealer is a common
term, but joggle plank is not.
11. The counter is the underside of the
overhanging portion of a ship's stern.
1. Getting Started
The planking process is tedious and you
should plan on spending some time
doing the job. Work on each plank as a
project unto itself. Rushing will only re-
sult in frustration and a poor result.
Since both sides of the hull will be iden-
tical, you can cut two planks the same
shape at once. Fit the plank on one side,
then the other. Before starting, place the
hull upside down and secure it in a vise
or cradle. Something portable would be
ideal so you can rotate the hull easily.
2. Planking Battens & Belts
It is easier to plank a hull by first divid-
ing the hull into a series of belts. The
belts flow along the hull in smooth
curves. Each belt is designed so the
planks lay against the hull without ex-
cessive edge bending of the planks. They
sweep up at the ends like the deck sheer.
Within each belt, the planks are usually
spaced evenly, tapered, and fitted as re-
quired. The belts help accomplish the
complete job without accumulating er-
rors as you work.
When selecting a belt width and the
number of planks within each belt, you
need to consider how the planks will lay
against the frames and how they will
taper. If the planks are too wide, they
will not lay flat on the bulkheads. Also,
you don't want them to taper so much
that there is no width left for fasteners.
This would require substituting a larger
plank for two to increase width. Also, in
some areas, the planks may get wider
rather than taper. If they get too wide, a
stealer plank must be cut into the plank.
While these alterations are acceptable
and are used on many ships, it is best to
design the run of planking to limit the
number of such inserts (see figure 18
which illustrates some of these inserts).
For the Rattlesnake model, a planking lay-
out has already been developed for you.
The layout is show on the P-O-B plan.
3. Planking Butts
Before you start, consider the planking
butts. Since the lengths of wood cut
from trees are generally shorter than the
overall lengths of real ships, ship-
builders generally have to work with
planks 20 or 30 feet long. Some modelers
think it is easier to use a plank length the
full length of the model. Fake butts can
be scribed in later or omitted. Granted,
this can be done. It's really up to the
FIG. 18 - Planking With Stealers
Stealer
Planks getting too wide
Single plank
insert
Planks getting too narrow

15
modeler. However, by using shorter
pieces there are some advantages. Since
all planks taper to some degree, using
the shorter piece will let you mark the
taper quick, and the plank will be easier
to fasten in place. And with a short
piece, only one hand is necessary to hold
it down. Also, if you make a mistake,
you only have a small piece to do over.
So, the following is based on the use of
the shorter lengths.
Planking butts will not be exactly like a
real ship. Because the model is built on
the bulkhead system, planking butts
must occur on bulkheads.
Use a plank length to cover four bulk-
head spaces. This is a comfortable length
to handle for this model; about 5" to 6".
To scale, that's a plank 27 to 32 feet long.
However, to avoid having very short
pieces at the bow and stern, you may
need to use a longer or shorter plank to
complete the run.
To follow real ship rules, you should
stagger the butts on the model (see fig-
ure 19 for a sequence that is similar to a
real ship). The stagger also applies to the
deck planking. The plank covering four
bulkhead spaces works well with the
rules. With this length you can meet the
rule for three full plank widths between
butts on a single frame. If you use a
plank length to cover only three bulk-
head spacings, this would not be possi-
ble. Since the butts occur on bulkheads,
you would wind up with only two full
planks between the butts.
4. Spiling
Edge bending planks on a real ship is
done, but it is limited. The wood is very
stiff, so many planks must be cut to
shape. Spiling is the term used for laying
out the cuts (see figure 20). It's simply a
matter of transferring curves to a straight
plank, then sawing the plank to shape.
For the Rattlesnake model, any stealers re-
quired are shown on the planking lay-
out. For most narrow planks, the bass-
wood strips are flexible enough so they
can be edge bent in place.
5. Fastening the Planks
There are some fancy plank clamps on the
market, but they are more trouble than
they are worth. They must be screwed
into the edge of the bulkheads, leaving a
big hole to contend with when doing sub-
sequent planks. With short pieces, you
can hold or pin the planks in place. Be
careful not to split the plank with the
pins. If necessary, drill a small pilot hole
first. Glue each plank to the bulkheads,
and edge glue them together. For the
edges, use white or carpenter's wood glue
so the setting will not occur too fast. At
the bulkheads, it is good to use thin super
glue to quickly secure the plank in place,
but be careful not to glue your fingers.
While glue alone will hold the planks,
you may wish to use small brass brads or
wooden treenails for additional holding
power, or just for looks. Use fine brass
brads and cut off and discard the heads,
then hammer the shaft in. If treenails are
desired, you can buy them commercially.
Better yet, get some long bamboo skewer
sticks, strip off small pieces, then pull
them through a draw plate until you have
very small dowels. Drill holes for the
"treenails", add a touch of glue, and drive
them in place. Treenails are good if you
want to add them where each frame
would appear on a real ship.
6. Planking the Outer Hull
Belt Layout: Now the fun begins! From the
upper rails down to the top of the wale,
the hull is divided into fairly even spaces
from bow to stern. The rails and wale line
are all Rattlesnake pre-set lines which can-
not be modified. At the quarter deck, from
the cap rail down to the covering board,
the bulwarks are planked with five planks.
Below the covering board there is a single
plank, then a plank covered with a mold-
ing strip. This strip goes from bow to stern.
Below the molding strip, down to the top
of the wale there are seven planks, all
about equal in width from bow to stern.
The plank layout above the wale is
based on the layout developed by Mr.
Campbell and shown on his plans. As an
option, you could make the planks
FIG. 19 - Staggering The Planking Butts
Bulkheads
Real ship–must be 5’ or more
(model meets rule)
Real ship–must have 3 strakes between
butts on same frame (model meets rule
with plank length selected)

16
wider. For example, use five instead of
seven planks below the molding strip.
From the top of the wale down to the
keel, all planking will require tapering
forward and aft. Consequently, the hull
below the wale has been divided into
three belts; BELTS Athrough C.
On this particular ship there is no
"lower" edge to the wales. The thicker
wales gradually taper into the planks
below so you do not see another step
along the hull like some other ships.
Note: On George Campbell's plan you
will see a note and sketch advising you
to cut into the hull to show the wale line.
This was for the older solid hull model.
With the P-O-B model, the difference in
the 1/32" and 1/16" plank provides the
wale step.
From the Hull Planking Layout drawing,
use a tick strip along each bulkhead loca-
tion and mark the top-of-wale location
and the belt seams below. Using a tick
strip, transfer the location of the seams on
each bulkhead and mark with a pencil.
Now, using 1/16" x 3/32" temporary bass-
wood battens, lay the battens along the
marks and temporarily tack them in place.
The purpose of the battens is to assure an
accurate flow of the planking belts. Al-
though the Hull Planking Layout was de-
veloped in the same manner, errors in
drafting and tick strip marking and trans-
ferring may occur. With the battens actu-
ally in place, these errors can be correct-
ed. However, remember that the wale
line is a given and must follow the plans.
With all the battens in place, visually
check the flow of the battens. Look at the
model from the side and from the bow
and stern. Do they look like nice smooth
curves? Adjust the lower battens if neces-
sary. The plans (see also figure 21) show
what they should look like from the side
and ends. When everything seems OK, if
necessary, remark the belt seam lines on
the bulkheads. Make sure that all the belt
seams are clearly marked. You do not
want to lose them. You could now re-
move the temporary battens or leave
them in place until they need to be re-
moved in order to add a plank.
Sloping Plank Edges: As you proceed
with the planking, you may need to
slope the edges of a particular plank so
it butts flush against the adjacent plank.
To begin with, all the planks on the hull
have square edges. When butted against
each other on a round hull form, a small
gap may appear between each plank.
Most of the gaps will be filled with glue,
or you can fill them with wood filler. On
a real ship, the gaps are eventually
caulked. In fact, the edges of the plank
are often sloped to increase the gapping.
This measure assures that the inside of
the planks butt against each other, and
that on the outside there are sufficient
gaps for caulking. If you want a perfect-
ly smooth hull without the gaps, you
must trim the edge of each plank as you
fit it. A lot of work, but your decision.
Planking the Counter: Plank the counter
with 1/32" planks. Let the counter
planks extend outboard for now. When
the hull planks are installed, the hull
planks will be fitted against the counter
in a miter (see figure 22).
Planking Above the Wale: From the top
of the wale up to the rails, all the plank-
ing is 1/32" thick. The planks are fairly
uniform in width from bow to stern and
can be fitted rather easily. Do not plank
over the gunport or oar openings.
The fancy molding strip can be added
on top of a hull plank, or a single piece
may be used instead. This option is
shown on the plans. It is probably easier
to add it separately so you can sand the
hull before gluing on the molding. The
same goes for the quarter deck covering
board strips outboard.
Laying the Planks in Belt A: Each belt of
planking is done separately. Conse-
quently, you can start with any belt. For
discussion, let's start at the top and work
down. Belt A has six 1/16"-thick plank
strakes below the wale. The maximum
plank width is at Bulkhead G and is
roughly 10" real ship width ( about 5/32"
model scale). The planks taper forward
to about 3/32". Going aft the planks get
wider to about 3/16". Use the 1/16" x
3/16" strips for the planking in this belt.
FIG. 20 - Spiling
Use a compass–run the steel point along the plank
in place and mark a parallel line on a new plank
with the pencil lead end
Measure width &
mark . Draw curve
Cut out plank
Plank already in place
Wood–lay along bulkheads
without edge bending
1
3
2

17
Use a tick strip and lift the plank widths
from the Hull Planking Layout. If you
have changed the locations of the bat-
tens, simply divide the space into six
equal plank widths at each bulkhead. A
set of proportional dividers would help.
Mark these lines on the bulkheads with
a pencil. You should now have a com-
pletely marked area for Belt A.
The next step is to cut planks to fit be-
tween the marks. Belt A will not require
spiling, so a straight tapered plank can be
made. Start at Bulkhead G. Use four
planks, one from Bulkhead G to Bulk-
head K, another from Bulkhead K to the
stern, Bulkhead G to Bulkhead C, and
Bulkhead C to the stem. First, lay a piece
of planking material over the bulkheads
and mark the length. Mark the plank in
pencil at each of the bulkheads. Next, use
a set of dividers or a tick strip and lift the
plank widths from the marks on the bulk-
heads and transfer to the plank. Draw a
line through the points and cut the plank.
You should now have a tapered plank.
Trace this plank to obtain another one for
the other side of the hull.
Install the planks on the hull. Do the same
process for the next strake below. Stagger
the butts for this strake. Install a plank
from Bulkhead F to Bulkhead B, Bulk-
head B to the stem, Bulkhead F to Bulk-
head J, and Bulkhead J to the stern. You
will have four planks making up each
strake from bow to stern (see figure 23).
FIG. 22 - Planking The Counter
FIG. 21 - Belt Battens
Look for smooth flow of battens
Top of wale
Battens
MFA
A
B
C
AB
C
A
B
C
Counter plank
Miter
Hull
plank
Counter
plank
1/32” counter plank
Joint
1/16” hull plank
Sand hull plank to
counter as necessary

18
Now, move down to the next planking
strake and work it the same way that you
did the previous one. Stagger the plank
butts, starting at Bulkhead E. Continue
until this strake is finished, then complete
the other strakes in Belt A. At the stern,
most planks will have a severe bend.
These planks must be steam bent.
Laying the Planking in Belt B: This belt
is very similar to Belt A. It also has six
plank strakes about the same width as
those in Belt A. If you have not removed
the temporary batten, do it now. You
can now start the process for Belt B, but
remember to stagger the butts.
Laying the Planking in Belt C: This belt
contains the garboard strake (next to the
keel). At Bulkhead F, the planks are
slightly wider than Belt B, but taper and
expand forward and aft similar to Belt B.
The shape of this hull is such that no
stealers are required in any belt. Al-
though the planks get wider aft, their
width without stealers is still reasonable,
about 12" full ship size.
The P-O-B plan has a complete planking
profile shown. Use this drawing to de-
termine the plank widths in Belt C. The
sections of the Hull Planking Layout
drawing cannot show all the planks aft
so the profile view is necessary.
Plank Variations within a Belt: Suppose
you are working within a belt, and have
five planks the same width, and then find
that the last plank in the belt must be
made wider to complete the belt....should
you worry? Certainly not. No planking
job, even on real ships, is that precise. You
are dealing with hand-cut planks. The im-
portant thing is to keep the flow of planks
smooth. A variation in plank widths with-
in a belt is of no great concern. Even
though this kit provides a planking layout,
you must be realistic. There are going to
be some slight variances as you proceed.
7. Planking Inboard
(Ceiling Planks)
Plank the inboard side of the gun deck
level, and the quarter deck bulwarks
with 1/32"-thick ceiling planks (see fig-
ure 24). The ceiling can be omitted on
the gun deck at the officer's quarters,
since the area cannot be seen when the
model is completed.
Option: You could do the ceiling plank
before you do the outer hull plank. The
sequence is optional.
8. Planking the Decks
Special Note: You probably noticed that
this model is designed so that the officer
and captain's quarters on the gun deck is
FIG. 24 - Inboard Planking
not detailed. If you wish to detail this
area, some modifications must be made
to the bulkheads and a full deck
planked. For our kit, the area is not de-
tailed, but it still contains some cannons.
If you use a full cannon, add a section of
decking to the quarter deck using 1/16"
sheet wood as shown on the P-O-B plan.
The plan also shows a detail of an op-
tional dummy cannon barrel so you can
eliminate the decking if desired.
Before installing the quarter deck plank-
ing, add the cannons or you will not be
able to get to them later to do the neces-
sary fitting. Make sure they are securely
fixed in place. It would be a disaster to
have a cannon come loose later.
Hatch & Grating Coamings: Before plank-
ing the deck, you must decide how you
want to treat the grating coamings. To do
it like the real ship, and a recommended
approach, install all coamings first. You
can then plank around the coamings. This
saves some planking work and material.
On the underside of the coamings, insert
some scrap wood so the deck plank has a
support for gluing (see figure 25).
If you elect not to install the coamings
now, the coamings along with the com-
pleted hatch and grating can be glued
down on top of the deck planking.
Deck Planks: All deck planking is 1/16"
thick. The actual run of planking is
shown on George Campbell's hull plan.
Notice that the planks run more or less
parallel to the shell rather than the cen-
terline. Planks can be edge bent some,
but you may need to use the spiling pro-
cess to complete all deck planks.
After the deck planks are shaped, prepare
the strips by painting one edge black or
dark brown. When the planks are glued
together, this will simulate caulking in
the seams. You can also use a brown col-
ored carpenter's wood glue on the edges
of the planks. When dry, this glue is dark
enough to simulate the caulking.
Thick Pads: There is a thick pad on the
deck under the galley chimney. Use a
1/32"-thick piece as a doubler on top of
the deck. The hole for the chimney
should be cut through the doubler and
deck planking.
Procedure: Start deck planking at the cen-
terline and work outboard. Where nibs are
located you can insert a piece of scrap
under the plank for support (see figure 26).
Scrape off any glue squeeze-out before
going to the next plank. Planking butts
can be used, like the outer hull, or they
can be omitted. On the real ship, they do
not show up as readily as the seams.
You can also scribe butts after each
plank is laid. Since there is no cutting or
curves involved like the hull planking,
using long deck strips is no problem.
Use brads or treenails if you like. See
Hull Plank discussion.
FIG. 23 - Belt “A” First & Second Strakes
M L K J I H G F E D C B A
Butts
staggered
1st strake in belt “A” (4 planks)
2nd strake in belt “A”
(4 planks)
}
Bulwark
planks
AFT
Focs'l or qtr deck
1/32”
ceiling planks
Gun deck
Waterway
already in place

19
FIG. 25 - Hatch & Grating Coamings
FIG. 26 - Nibbing The Deck Planks
Coaming Center Keel
Scrap supports
for deck planking
and coaming
Deck plank
Covering board
Nib in deck plank
Scrap piece under to
support & keep nib end flush
STAGE C
COMPLETING THE BASIC
HULL STRUCTURE
1. Correcting and Sanding
After all the planks are installed, look
over the entire hull. If you find seams
with starved glue joints, rub some wood
glue in the cracks and, if necessary, add
some wood filler. When seams are filled,
sand the entire hull and deck planks
smooth.
2. Building the Head Rails
The head rails are tricky little devils, but
easy once you grasp what they look like.
Cut all the parts from wood. There are
no laser-cut parts in the kit. The various
parts and how they go together are illus-
trated (see figure 27).
3. Gunport Lids
Notice that there are no gunport lids in
the midship area, only forward and aft.
The gunport lids are supplied as Britan-
nia fittings or you can make them from
wood. Use 1/32"-thick wood. Make the
hinge straps from brass or paper strips.
4. Building the Gangways
From the quarter deck to the forecastle,
outboard side, there is a portion of fixed
and portable gangways. All gangways
sit on iron knees. For the model, these
can be made from wood (see figure 28).
5. Natural Wood/Double
Plank Option
Most wooden ships have single thick-
ness planking. Furthermore, the kit is in-
tended to be painted. However, many
modelers are familiar with the European
double-planked kits, or want to have a
natural wood tone finish on the hull,
typical of the Admiralty type models.
Also, after the planking job is complet-
ed, some modeler's wish to try again to
improve the looks of the job. If this is
your desire, the model can be double
planked over the basswood planking.
Thin wood strips in mahogany, walnut,
and some other types of exotic hard-
wood can be purchased from Model
Expo for the task. For the Rattlesnake,
you will need about 75 strips which are
0.5mm x 5mm x 20" and includes about
20 percent increase for waste and errors.
FIG. 27 - Building The Headrails
Top rail P/S
Rails are straight
viewed from above.
cut from flat sheet
Head timbers P/S
Glue to stem
& to cheek
Upper cheek P/S
Lower cheek P/S
Cheeks curve in 2
directions, so must
be carved to shape
Middle rail P/S
Fit into slots in
head timbers

20
FIG. 28 - Building The Gangways
The natural wood planks will cover the
existing planking, but you will still have
the rails exposed. You could substitute
these initially with the wood of your
choice, cap them with the strips, or sim-
ply stain them to look similar.
When applying the strips, proceed ex-
actly as you did for the basswood plank-
ing process. You may want to work with
longer strips since the basswood plank-
ing already defines the plank shapes.
Simply lift dimensions from the hull and
cut the natural wood strips. When com-
pleted, sand and finish the hull with Flo-
quil oil, glaze, or tung oil. Finally, add a
coat of wax and polish.
STAGE D
MOUNTING THE HULL
Before proceeding with additional work
it is best to mount the hull. This step will
help prevent details from becoming dam-
aged while you handle the model. It will
also allow you to make any alignments
that require a true waterline. So, proper
mounting of the hull is very important.
While any modeler can devise his own
mounting, this kit contains two brass
pedestals and a baseboard for mounting
the model. A second option, called the
launching ways, may be made by hand
or purchased commercially, as well.
If you intend to put the model in a glass
or plastic case, you could make the bot-
tom of the case serve as a baseboard.
1. Mounting Board with
Two Pedestals
Round the top edges of the kit-supplied
baseboard, or cut a simple chamfer. If
you own a router, or can borrow one,
you can cut some fancy shapes on the
baseboard edge. Paint or stain the base-
board. You can buy a pre-finished base-
board if you like or make your own
from a more exotic wood like cherry,
walnut, bubinga, or rosewood.
Mount the model so the load waterline
is parallel with the baseboard. On Rat-
tlesnake, the load waterline is not defined
by a painted horizontal bottom line. The
bottom color goes up to the black stripe
which is parallel to the wales and is a
curve. Consequently, you must use the
hull plan to determine the height of the
load waterline at each end of the model.
Drill pilot holes in the model and base-
board for the pedestal screws. If some-
thing goes wrong and the balance is off,
add a brass shim under one pedestal to
correct it.
Gangway plank
Pin & glue to ceiling
Support knee: iron on
ship; wood on model
FIG. 29 - Making The Bitts From Wood
Dowel
or pin
Dowel
into
deck
Notch
Hole to represent
sheave in brace
& sheet bitts
Option: hole in deck
Cleat (fore bitts)
TYPICAL GALLOWS BITTS
BRACE, SHEET &
RIDING BITTS