N Gauge Society GWR Meat Van Mica A/B NGSK0100 User manual

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N Gauge Society Kit 10
GWR Meat Van
Mica A/B
NGSK0100
Kit contains plastic parts, plastic chassis,
and wheels to complete one wagon.
To complete this kit you will need: Liquid Plastic Cement,
Paint, Transfers & Varnish
This is not a toy. Only suitable for persons over the age of 14. May contain small
parts and sharp edges. Keep away from small children.
Getting Started
First, read the instructions thoroughly all the way through
and be sure you are confident that you have identified all
the parts. It is recommended that you adhere to the
suggested order of assembly, though with experience, you
may choose to deviate. The kit has been designed to
cover two types of van; decide before you start which one
you wish to build.
General Notes On Construction
Naturally, the N Gauge Society wants you to achieve the
best results you can. These simple guidelines should help:
 Read the instructions through fully before you begin
 Use a sharp knife to separate the parts from the
sprues
 Clean off any flash or moulding pips with sharp knife
and wet ‘n’ dry sandpaper
 Check fit before gluing
 Use a small paint brush to sparingly apply liquid
plastic cement when joining parts
 Photographs of the prototypes will help you
But above all .... TAKE YOUR TIME!!
The Prototype
The first Great Western Railway (GWR) designs for meat vans had internal ice bunkers (diagram X2, painted white),
though they were not always fitted (diagram X1, in standard freight grey livery). Later designs had four roof hatches for
filling bunkers, with steps and handrails to facilitate this. Diagrams X1, X2, X4 had coach wheels (slightly larger than
wagon wheels) though from 1912 (diagram X5) wagon wheels were standard.
The complete history of this type of wagon is long and complicated, and for further details, reference should be made
to the following books:
 A History of GWR Goods Wagons by AG Atkins, W Beard, DJ Hyde, R Tourret pages 190/1
 Railways In Profile Series, No 17 GWR Wagons Before 1948 Vol 2 by R Tourret page 38
 Great Western Wagons Appendix by JH Russell pages 125/6
This kit will build into a model of the diagram X8 Mica B meat van, for which the spoked wheels in the Peco chassis kit
and the long lever brake are suitable. With slight modifications (removal of roof hatches and end steps), it is possible to
build a model of a Mica A. Also included on the sprue are a bracket and brake lever for the Dean Churchward (DC)
brake; the more experienced modeller may wish to replace the long lever brake for certain diagrams. Given the family
resemblance of the Mica vans, further variations are possible but beyond the scope of these instructions.
Livery and Lettering
Wagons without ice bunkers received standard GWR all-over grey with white roof, while all those fitted with ice bunkers
were painted white with black chassis; roofs were either white or pale grey. Those that passed into British Railways
ownership at nationalisation initially received light stone livery, then white, pale blue and finally bauxite.
Lettering on the grey livery was standard white letters with large G W. The code MICA was on the bottom left corner
over the wagon number with 6 Tons Tare 8-7 on the right bottom corner.

N Gauge Society Kit 10 – GWR Meat Van, Mica A/B
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Lettering on the white livery was always in red. Initially, this was a large G W, with MICA.B above the wagon number
bottom left corner and 6 Tons and Tare 8-8
bottom right corner. Alternatively, between
the code and number would be
REFRIGERATOR and on the same level on
the right-hand side would be MEAT VAN.
This was repeated on the ends with separate
lines for MICA.B, REFRIGERATOR, MEAT
VAN and wagon number.
The Mica B coding gave way to VENT-
INSUL-MEAT in the 1940s.
Some diagram X2 vans were re-coded TEVAN (and given the diagram V31) for the conveyance of tea, lettered as
follows with separate lines for J>S FRY & SON’S, Siding, Keynsham &, Somerdale G.W.R. TEVAN, GW, 6T, 59741.
Parts
Two sprues are packaged with this kit. Unpack the separately packaged Peco chassis. Use the following photograph
and table to identify all the parts. Keep all the parts in a container or re-sealable bag to avoid loss and only remove
parts from the sprues as you need them.
Part
Number
Quatity Description
1 2 Floor
2 2 End
3 2 Side
4 2
(1 spare)
Roof
5 2
(1 spare)
Vacuum Cylinder
6 2 Vacuum Pipe
7 2 DC brake lever
8 2 DC brake bracket
9 4 Brass Buffers (not shown)
Construction
Only a few basic tools are required – a sharp craft knife, wet ‘n’ dry sandpaper, a selection of small drill bits and
tweezers (preferably fine point).
A liquid polystyrene glue such as Mekpak is best, using a
small paint brush to apply small amounts to joints.
1. Decide which model to build, either Mica B (roof
hatches, end steps and handrails) or Mica A (no roof
hatches, end steps or handrails).
2. Cut the parts from the sprues (as required) and clean
off any mould marks, flashing, etc., using files and
emery paper.
Body
3. Mica A only – remove the footsteps from both ends
(Part 2) using a sharp knife, finishing off with files
and emery paper.

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4. Mica B only - using a 0.5mm drill bit, drill out handrail holes in both end (Part 2) and roof (Part 4) mouldings.
Location marks have been provided, but to prevent the drill wondering these marks must first be indented with the
point of a scriber. Once the holes have been drilled in the roof, use emery paper to smooth the underside to enable
it to sit properly on the body ends.
5. Glue one side (Part 3) to the floor (Part 1) ensuring equal overhand at each end. Make sure that the floor fits flush
with the bottom of the side, and that the coupling plugs on the floor are pointing down. Be careful to get the side
the right way up – the bottom edge is the one that was attached to the sprue.
6. Glue both ends (Part 2) to the side/floor ensuring that they are square.
7. Glue the second side (Part 3) to the floor/ends.
8. Plastic kits can be light, and some modellers find that a little weight improves running qualities. There is plenty of
room inside the van body to glue the steel weight from the Peco chassis kit to the floor or fit a little bit of lead
weight before attaching the roof.
9. With a 3.0mm bit, drill two ventilation holes through the floor. Position is not important, they are necessary only to
allow excess liquid glue to evaporate; if not done, the glue may continue to work and damage the plastic from the
inside.
10. The spare floor (Part 4) can be glued in place just below the top edge of the sides (with the coupling plugs facing
down). This is purely to make the model into a strong ‘box’ form. Drill two ventilation holes in this floor piece.
11. Clear the holes in headstocks on the ends using the point of a needle file or similar and glue the buffers in place
(superglue is ideal).
12. Glue the vacuum pipes in place 2mm to the left of the draw hook
socket on the headstock.
Handrails (Mica B only)
13. Take the handrail wire supplied and heat it over a flame (candle
or similar) until cherry red to soften it so making it easier to bend.
14. Using the drawing as a guide, bend to shape the four end
handrails. This is much easier to write than do! Reference to
photographs will help. Leave one leg of each handrail where it
goes into the van body about 4mm long.
15. Do not yet fix in place. Push each one (when fashioned to the
shape required) into a block of ‘blue tack’ via the long leg so that
they may be painted before fixing in position.
Chassis
16. Remove the two round locating lugs on top of the Peco chassis and any trace of the
injection point in the middle, so that it is flat.
17. Turn the chassis over and using a razor saw or similar, cut immediately in front of
both coupler pockets and remove the headstocks and buffers to reduce the length of
the chassis. Tidy up sawn edges with files and check to ensure a push fit into body.
18. Using a flat needle file, remove sufficient plastic from the chassis
floor immediately behind the solebars in all four corners to clear
the spigots on the buffers (approx. 1mm wide and 1.5mm long).
19. Put the Peco couplings into the coupling pockets at each end of
the chassis. Test fit to the body and check that the couplings sit
level and move freely. If the couplings sit up at an angle, remove the floor and carefully sand the bottom of the

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lugs. If the couplings droop downwards, remove the floor and add a shim of thin plasticard to the bottom of the
lugs. Repeat the appropriate remedial action until the couplings sit level.
20. This step is an alternative method of retaining the couplings. Cut the wide flat tops off the Peco coupling retainers
leaving a plug 1mm in height, then put them into the coupling pockets. Make sure that the couplings sit level and
then apply a very small amount of glue to the top of the coupling retainers. Cut the lugs off the floor pieces leaving
just 0.5mm which will be enough to easily locate the floor in the correct position on the chassis. Do not glue the
floor on at this stage.
21. Mica B only - cut two pieces of the brass wire 23mm long and fix to both W-irons on each side of chassis to
represent the truss rods fitted to these vehicles.
Roof
22. Mica A only – remove the four roof hatches using a sharp knife, finishing off with files and emery paper.
Painting
23. It is much easier to paint the chassis, body, roof and handrails as separate items, as they require different colours.
Final Assembly
24. Glue the roof (Part 4) to the body ensuring an equal overhang on the sides and ends.
25. Place the couplers into the coupler pockets on the chassis.
26. Glue the body onto the chassis being careful not to get any glue into the couplings.
27. Mica B only - carefully insert the handrails and if necessary secure with a tiny drop of superglue.
28. Pop the wheelsets into place and check for free running.
Transfers (not included)
29. It is advisable to prepare the painted surface with a gloss finish as this will accept transfers more easily and the
carrier will not show as much. Use a gloss varnish or ‘Klear floor polish’.
30. Cut round the transfers using a sharp knife and a steel ruler – always cut with the ruler over the transfer to avoid
damaging it.
31. To apply the transfers, soak them in a dish of warm water for a few seconds, drain off the water, lay on a flat
surface and then use the tip of a cocktail stick to check that the transfers will move free of the backing paper – if
not, return to the water and repeat this step. Once the transfer moves, place it on the model and use the tip of the
cocktail stick to hold one end to the model while pulling the backing sheet away with tweezers. There should be
time to make a few adjustments as necessary.
32. Leave all the transfers to dry for half an hour and then apply a ‘decal setting solution’ (such as Micro-Sol) if
required which will help the transfers to lie and form over detail. Then leave overnight before applying a coat of
matt varnish to seal the transfers to the model.
Congratulations! Your model is now complete.