OLT SpaceSaver SS124-SLIDER-CEDAR-AK User manual

12x4 SpaceSaver
Sliding Doors - Cedar Roof - AK Siding
Assembly Manual
Version #2.10
September 9, 2021
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 within
30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge, within
10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
Thank you for purchasing a
12x4 SpaceSaver Shed with
Sliding Doors. Please take the
time to identify all the parts prior
to assembly.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation on level ground and
normal residential use. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
shed and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Customers are responsible for ensuring
a solid, level, well-draining site for
construction.
Please check with your local municipal
or county by-laws before ordering this
product to confirm it complies with
building codes.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.
Stock Code:
SS124-SLIDER-CEDAR-AK

What to do before my Shed arrives?
Become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can•
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor.
Clear the construcon area and ensure a clear pathway for delivery when•
the freight company arrives. Remove all debris: roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Excavate the site. Contact your local ulies company to ensure there are•
no gas or electric lines buried in the area before digging.
Decide on the type of foundaon you will be using:•
 Concrete slab, or
 46 inches of crushed gravel with paver stones or 4x4 stringers.
You can find the footprint for your shed on Page 3 of your Assembly Manual.
If doing the assembly yourself, have all the necessary tools ready to go and in•
working condion. A list of required tools can be found aer the parts list.
One helper is recommended to assist in construcng your shed.•
It generally takes two people over two days to assemble a shed. If you’re
hiring a contractor, their rate should be in line with that duraon of work.
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Page 2

Foundation Types for 12x4 Garden Shed
Concrete Slab Foundation:
- Slab must be at least the same size as assembled floor frame (45 1/2” x 141 1/2”) or larger.
- 6” Deep foundation.
- 0.9 Cubic Yards of concrete required.
- A concrete slab will have the longest durability out of your foundation options.
Once level, a concrete slab is the easiest surface to build on.
Gravel with 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.2 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximately 11 wheelbarrows.
- 3 - 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers 12’ long required.
- Evenly spaced, with one at each end of floor frame.
Saves money on materials, easy to level and work with.
Gravel with Patio Paver Stones:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.2 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximately 11 wheelbarrows.
- 21 patio pavers (8” x 8” or larger).
- Center patio paver stones underneath floor runners and underneath seams in floor joists.
Patio paver stones are widely available from most landscape stores.
141 1/2”
45 1/2”
45 1/2”
141 1/2”
153 1/2”
57 1/2”
3 - 4”x4”x144”
21 Patio Stones
Floor FrameConcrete Foundation Completed Foundation
17 1/2”
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with treated stringers Completed Foundation
Completed Foundation
153 1/2”
57 1/2”
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with Patio Pavers
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Page 3

Thank you for purchasing our 12x4 SpaceSaver Sliding Door Shed. Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
1. Floor Section
Floors
1A: 2 - 45 ½” x 70 ¾” - Floor Frames
1B: 4 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 67 3/4” - Floor Joists
1C: 2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Floor Runners - Short
1CC: 5 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 47 ½” - Floor Runners - Long
1D: 2 - 5/8” x 45 3/8” x 70 5/8” - Plywood Floor
2. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
2A: 5 - 45 ½” x 75” - Side/Rear Wall Panels
2B: 5 - 1 5/8” x 2 ½” x 45 ½” - Bottom Wall Plates - Side/Rear Walls
2BB: 2 - 1 5/8” x 2 ½” x 35” - Bottom Wall Plates - Front Walls
2C: 2 - 35” x 73” - Front Wall Panels
Door Headers
2D: 2 - 2” x 3 ½” x 26 ¼” - Door Headers - Short
2E: 1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 84” - Door Header - Long (88” Aluminum Strip Attached)
2EE: 1 - 1 ½” x 3” x 66 ½” - Interior Door Header
Extender Walls
2F: 2 - Top Triangular Siding Pc for Angle Wall Extenders
2G: 2 - 45 ¼” - Angle Wall Extenders - Left/Right
2H: 3 - 9” x 45 ½” - Wall Extenders
Wall Cleats
2I: 1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 84” - Horizontal Wall Cleat - Long
2J: 2 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 26 ¼” - Horizontal Wall Cleats - Short
3. Rafter and Roof Section
Rafters
3A: 9 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafters
3B: 2 - 1” x 3 ½” x 48” - Front Soffits - Left/Right
3C: 1 - 1” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Front Soffit - Center
3D: 2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Rear Soffits - Left/Right
3E: 1 - ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Rear Soffit - Center
Roofs
3F: 2 - ¾” x ¾” x 51” - Facia Nailing Strips
3G: 2 - Roof Panels - 51” w x 56” d (1 - Left 1- Right)
3H: 1 - Roof Panel - 45 ½” w x 56” d (Center)
3I: 8 - 5 ½” Wide x 16” to 18” long - Filler Shingles
4. Trim & Miscellaneous Section
Bottom Skirting
4A: 5 - ¾” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Side/Rear Bottom Skirting (Bevel Siding)
4B: 3 - ½” x 4” x 45 ¼” - Front Bottom Skirting
Filler Trim
4C: 4 - ½” x 2 ½” x 38” - Front Corner Filler Trims
4D: 4 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 42” - Rear Corner Filler Trims
Door System
4E: 2 - Aluminum Door Tracks
4F: 2 - 36” x 73” - Sliding Doors
4G: 1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 71 ½” - Interior Door Flange
4H: 2 - 1 ½” x 1 5/8” x 61 1/8” - Lower Door Track
4I: 3 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 44 ¼” - Lower Door Track Cover
4J: 3 - 1 ½” x 2 ¼” x 3 ½” - Sliding Door Track Stops
Note: There are no Parts 4K or 4L
Outer Wall Trim
4M: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 78 ½” - Front Corner Trims
4N: 2 - ½ x 2 ½” x 80” - Side Front Corner Trims
4O: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 88 ¾” - Rear Corner Trims
4P: 4 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Side Rear Corner & Middle Trims
14-15, 23
Steps
Steps
16-21
22
Steps
30-39
42-44
45-46
47-51
Steps
7-13
1-6
24-29
52-54
Parts List - Pages 2 and 3
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Page 4
Note: All Trim, Facia, and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.

4. Trim & Miscellaneous Section Cont.
Facia
4Q: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 54 1/8” - Side Facia (Angle Cut Ends)
4R: 4 - ½” x 5 ½” x 50 ½” - Front and Rear Facia - Left/Right
4S: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 45 ½” - Front and Rear Facia - Center
4T: 4 - Facia Detail Plates (5 ½” high)
Ridge Boards
4U: 3 - ½” x 4 ½” x 49 ¼” - Roof Ridge Boards
Windows
4V: 2 - Window Inserts 18 1/4”w x 23”h
4W: 2 - Window Trim Kits
1 - Top pc - 24 1/16” Length - Angle Cut Ends
3 - Side/Bottom pcs - 23” Length
Miscellaneous
4X: 1 - 45 ¼” - Extra Piece of Bevel Wall Siding
- Use if side/rear wall panel siding is damaged or to shim floor or door.
4Y: 1 - 36” - Extra Piece of Lap Siding
- Use if front wall panel siding is damaged
Steps
60
61-63
55-59
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
S4 - 3” Screws Y2 - 90° Metal
Bracket (Roof) x 8
x 250
x 28
x 190
x 305
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
N1 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails
BR1 - Square Drive Bit x 2
Y3 - Black Handle x 2
Y11 - Black Hasp x 1
x 20
SB1 - 3/4” Screws
Black Headed
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer
Level
Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bit
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required
(Not Provided)
Wood Clamp
Utility Knife
12X4 SpaceSaver Sliding Door Shed HARDWARE PACKAGE
Y35 - Roller Assembly x 4
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Page 5

Regular Maintenance & Tips to prolong the life of your shed.
Before/During Assembly:
1.) Paint each face and edge of your plywood floor with a latex exterior paint.
2.) Caulk wall seams if gaps appear.
3.) Caulk around window framing.
4.) Caulk perimeter between floor plywood and bottom wall plate.
5.) Caulk channels in lap siding at the top of your door above the trim, just a drop in each channel.
6.) Caulk edge of door threshold.
7.) Optional: Install a Sill Gasket between floor runners and foundation.
8.) Optional: Install an 8” strip of roofing paper below Cedar Ridge Caps for Cedar Roof Sheds.
Routine Maintenance:
- Routinely check all fasteners are tight (ex. Door Hinges, Nails)
- Brush off dirt from walls.
- Brush off snow from roof regularly.
- Routinely remove needles and leaves from roof.
Painting/Staining
- Your cedar shed, if left untreated, will weather to a silvery grey colour.
- Painting or staining your structure is highly recommended and will prolong the life of your shed.
- You do not need to wait to paint or stain your shed, the wood in your kit has been dried and can be
—stained or painted immediately.
- Consult your local paint store for the best paint or stain for cedar.
- Optional: stain the inside of your shed. (Note: this will remove the fresh cedar smell.)
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7.
Sill Gasket
Floor Joists
Floor Runner
Foundation
8.
Floor Plywood
Wall Panel
Small gap between
bevel siding and
window trim
Dab of caulking
Strip of roofing paper over
apex of roof panels
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Page 6

You can find BR1 - Square
Drive Bit for the screws in
with the Hardware Kit Bag.
1. Floor Section
Flush with framing
top/bottom.
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note: Floor Footprint is 141 1/2” wide x 45 1/2” deep.
2. Lay out both complete floor joist frames as illustrated. The footprint for the
floor when attached together will be 141 1/2” wide x 45 1/2” deep. Attach
frames together with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 16 total
1. Lay out 1A - Floor Frame and two 1B - Floor Joists as illustrated
above. Position the center of each Joist 15” from the outer edge of Floor
Frame. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with
4 - 2 1/2” Screws (2 per end). You can find the Square Drive Screw
Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag. Complete remaining Floor Frame the
same.
Parts
1A - Floor Joist Frames
(45 1/2” x 70 3/4”) x 2
1B - Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 67 3/4”) x 4
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 6 total
141 1/2”
45 1/2”
15”
15”
Plywood Floor - 2pcs.
(Part 1D)
Floor Frames - 2pcs.
(Part 1A)
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Center Floor
Joists - 4pcs.
(Part 1B)
Floor Runners Short -
2pcs. (Part 1C)
Floor Runners Long -
5pcs. (Part 1CC)
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Page 7

3. Position 1C - Floor Runners - Short on each
side of the completed floor frame. Runners should
be flush with corners but not overhanging. Attach
with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per Runner.
Parts
1C - Floor Runners - Short
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 8 total
4. Align 1CC - Floor Runners - Long evenly spaced as shown above and
flush with the back of the Floor Frame. On the front, Runners will extend 2”
past the Floor Frame to provide support for the Sliding Door Track later in
the Assembly. Attach with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per Runner.
With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip the floor over and place on your
foundation. Caution - Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist
floor. Note: Having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will
vary between regions. Typical foundations can be concrete pads or patio
stones positioned underneath the floor runners.
5. Position 1D - Plywood Floor on top of completed floor frames.
Plywood will sit slightly inset from outside of floor frame.
Parts
1D - Plywood Floor
(5/8” x 45 3/8” x 70 5/8”) x 2
Note: Plywood is cut slightly
smaller than floor framing.
Keep plywood seams tight.
Parts
1CC - Floor Runners - Long
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 47 1/2”) x 5
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 20 total
Long Floor Runners overhanging Floor Frame on front.
Floor Runners flush with Floor Frame on back.
Concrete Slab
Foundation
Front
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Page 8

6. With Plywood positioned correctly on floor framing, attach with 1 1/4” Screws.
Use screws every 16” around perimeter of each floor section and 3 screws
through each mid joists.
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 40 total (approx.)
Advice: Use chalk line to
mark location of mid
joists for interior screws.
2. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all
parts prior to starting.
Angled Wall
Extenders - 2pcs.
(Part 2G)
Side/Rear Wall
Panels - 5pcs.
(Part 2A)
Bottom Wall Plates
- 5pcs. (Part 2B)
Front Wall Panels - 2pcs.
(Part 2C)
Horizontal Wall Cleats
- 3pcs. (Parts 2I & 2J)
Wall Extenders
- 3pcs. (Part 2H)
Door Headers - 3pcs.
(Parts 2D & 2E)
Top Triangular
Siding Piece - 2pcs.
(Part 2F)
Front Wall Bottom
Plates - 2pcs.
(Part 2BB)
Interior Door Header
- 1pc. (Part 2EE)
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Page 9

Bottom Wall Plate
You can find BR1 -
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
7. Carefully lay 2A - Side/Rear Wall Panels face
down. Position and attach 2B - Bottom Wall Plates
to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush with
framing. Complete 4 remaining solid walls.
Parts
2A - Side/Rear Wall Panels
(45 1/2” wide x 75” high) x 5
2B - Bottom Wall Plates
(1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 5
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 15 total
Ensure bottom plate
is flush side-to-side
with wall studs
Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their
upright position. If not, water may leak into your shed.
Unsure if panel is facing up or down?
Recently attached Bottom Plate is on bottom of panel.
Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel should
be positioned flush with the outside of
floor framing when properly aligned.
9. The rear wall panels will sit even with the floor frame and the sidewall panels will be sandwiched
between the front and rear wall panels. The floor plywood may be slightly recessed.
Note: Siding will overhang the floor frame by approximately 3/4”.
8. Starting on one side, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. The Wall Panel bottom framing
will sit flush with the outside of the floor frame. Wall siding will overhang the floor.
Siding overhangs
floor frame by 3/4”
Floor plywood
may be slightly
recessed
Do Not Attach Walls
To Floor until Step 23.
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Page 10

Side Solid Wall
Rear Solid Wall
Be sure that the rear
wall panels fit
between the side wall
panels (sandwiched).
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
at seam. Caulking not
included in kit.
11. With the corner wall attachment complete, position a second rear wall panel in place so bottom
2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor joists. Wall siding should overhang floor by
approximately 3/4”. When positioned correctly, attach both side wall panel studs together as per Step 10.
10. Position rear solid wall into place on plywood floor. Butt both vertical wall
studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly.
Note: Drill pilot holes in studs to prevent splitting.
Hardware (Steps 10 - 12)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x12 total
Pilot Hole
first.
Side Wall
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Page 11

Wall panel will
sit flush with
floor framing.
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor Until Step 23
13. Carefully lay 2C - Front Wall Panels face down. Position and attach
2BB - Bottom Wall Plates to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws as per Step 7. Complete other remaining Front Wall.
Place Front Walls so wall framing is flush with floor frame and siding
overhangs. Attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws per panel as per Steps 10 - 12.
12. Complete remaining side wall attachment as per Steps 10 - 11.
Front of Shed
Parts
2C - Front Wall Panels
(35” wide x 73” high) x 2
2BB - Bottom Wall Plates
(1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 35”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 12 total
Ensure bottom plate
is flush side-to-side
with wall studs
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Page 12

14. Position 2D - Door Header - Short on top
of wall stud so it is flush on the inside with 2x3
wall stud. Attach by screwing down into top wall
framing with 3 - 3” Screws.
Parts (Step 14 - 15)
2D - Door Headers - Short
(2” x 3 1/2” x 26 1/4”) x 2
2E - Door Header - Long
(2” x 3 1/2” x 84”) x 1
Hardware (Step 14 - 15)
S4 - 3” Screws
x 10 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 4 total
Step to front
and top.
Align flush
outside with
wall siding.
15. Attach 2D - Door Header - Short to other side. Position and attach 2E - Door Header - Long
between short door headers. The Long Door Header has an aluminum strip attached to the back for added
support. Attach by screwing down into wall framing with 2 - 3” Screws per side. Fasten aluminum strip to
short headers with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws per side.
Aluminum strip on back
of Long Door Header
Door Header
overhangs
inside wall
framing by 1/2”
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Page 13

5 1/2”
5 1/2”
Top Siding Pc.
Top Siding Pc. for Angle Wall
can also be installed after Roof
is attached after Step 41.
Side Wall Panel
16. Position 2F - Top Triangular Siding Piece onto
2G - Angle Wall Extender and align as shown above. Attach with
3 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails to top frame of extender wall. There are
left/right top siding pieces. Use rough surface side out. Place finished
wall extender on side wall panel frame. Complete both sides now.
Note: Bottom siding of wall extender will overhang and cover siding
of side wall.
Parts
2G - Angle Wall Extenders - L/R
(2G - 45 1/2” wide) x 2
2F - Top Triangular Siding Piece
(2F - Left/Right) x 2
Hardware
N1 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails x 6 total
17. Align wall framing of Angled Wall Extender and Side Wall so they are flush at the back. The siding for
both walls should also align evenly from front to back.
Wall framings
flush.
Siding
lines up.
Sidings will
overlap.
18. With Angled Wall Extender and Side Wall aligned correctly, secure
together from the inside with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Hardware (Steps 18 - 19)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 8 total
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Page 14

20. Place 2H - Rear Extender Walls top framing
of rear wall with bottom siding overlapping that of
the rear wall.
Parts (Steps 20 - 21)
2H - Rear Extender Walls
(2H - 45 1/2” wide) x 3
Hardware (Steps 20 - 21)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 12 total
Cleat protects
overhanging siding
on upper walls from
damage. Please
remove before
installing.
Overhanging
siding.
Protective
cleat
19. Complete opposite Angled Wall Extender positioning and attachment as per Step 18.
21. With 2x3 wall framing aligned, attach extender walls to rear wall top plate with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per
wall.
Pilot Hole
first.
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Page 15

22. Attach 2I & 2J - Horizontal Wall Cleats to Wall Extender
bottom framing and Rear Wall top framing so that cleat is flush with
extender framing. There are two short cleats and one long cleat.
Alternate alignment of screws, so half screw into Wall Extender
Framing and half into Rear Wall Top Framing. Use 3 - 1 1/4” Screws
per short cleat and 6 - 1 1/4” Screws on the long cleat.
Parts
2I - Horizontal Wall Cleat - Long
(3/4” x 3 1/2” x 84”) x 1
2J - Horizontal Wall Cleats - Short
(3/4” x 3 1/2” x 26 1/4”) x 2
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws x 12 total
23. Attach 2EE - Interior Door Header as shown above. Align with top
framing of front walls. Attach with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
To complete Wall Section, attach bottom 2x3 wall plates to plywood floor with
2 - 2 1/2” Screws per wall section. Prior to securing, make sure wall panels
are aligned correctly on the floor. Refer to Step 9. Wall siding should overhang
floor while 2x3 wall plates should sit flush with floor.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 32 total
Bottom Wall
Optional - Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
Parts
2EE - Interior Door Header
(1 1/2” x 3” x 66 1/2”) x 1
Advice: Use Interior Door Header
to confirm doorway opening is
66 1/2” wide at top and bottom.
66 1/2”
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Page 16

3. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Rafter and Roof Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Left Roof Panel
(Part 3G)
Right Roof
Panel (Part 3G)
Rear Soffits - L/R
- 2pcs (Part 3D)
Rafters - 9pcs
(Part 3A)
Filler Shingles -
8pcs. (Part 3I)
Facia Nailing Strips
- 2pcs (Part 3F)
Center Roof
Panel (Part 3H)
Rear Soffit - Center
- 1pc (Part 3E)
Front Soffits - L/R
- 2pcs (Part 3B) Front Soffit - Center
- 1pcs (Part 3C)
142 1/4”
142 1/4”
Advice: Prior to installing rafters,
take time to confirm your walls are
level, square and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom
of walls corner-to-corner. This should
be approximately 142 1/4”. More
importantly, if measurements are not
within 1/4”, your walls are not square.
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Page 17

24. Locate 3A - Rafters, 3B & 3C - Front Soffits and
3D & 3E - Rear Soffits. Lay out on level ground and
assemble as shown above in Illustrations A through C
below. Attach Soffit Boards flush to end of outside
rafters. Attach Front Soffits with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per
rafter end. Attach Rear Soffits with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws
per rafter end.
Important: Drill pilot holes in Soffit ends to prevent
splitting. Attach double rafters as illustrated above with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws per rafter/rafter connection.
Front Soffits
21 3/4”
48” 45 1/2” 48”
Rear Soffits
20 1/2”21 3/4” 20 1/2” 21 3/4” 21 3/4”
Front
Rear
141 1/2”
Parts
3A - Rafters
(1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 54”) x 9
3B - Front Soffits - Sides
(1” x 3 1/2” x 48”) x 2
3C - Front Soffit - Center
(1” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 1
3D - Rear Soffits - Sides
(1/2” x 3 1/2” x 48”) x 2
3E - Rear Soffit - Center
(1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 1
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 24 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 18 total
A. B.
Front Soffit
C.
Screw double
rafters together with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw Front Soffits to
Rafters with 2 - 2 1/2”
Screws per rafter end.
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each screw, to avoid
splitting wood. The hole depth should be equal to 3/4 the length of screw.
Rear Soffit
Front Soffit
Screw Rear Soffits to
Rafters with 2 - 1 1/4”
Screws per rafter end.
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25. Carefully flip completed Rafter Section over so Front Soffit is facing the front and place on SpaceSaver
walls. Note: Double check that your Rafter Section is positioned correctly by ensuring the ends of the
Rafters are sloped vertically as shown above.
26. Position completed Rafter Section on top of walls. Outside Rafters will sit on Extension Wall framing
and be positioned equally from side to side.
Rafter sits on framing
27. When Rafter Section is positioned correctly, both Front and Rear Soffits will sit approximately 1/8”
away from wall siding. This can vary slightly.
Rafter ends vertical.
Side View
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Page 19

28. With Rafter Section correctly aligned, secure rafters to walls using
2 - 90° Metal Brackets per side. Attach each brackets with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws.
Screw into Wall Extension Framing at the rear and Wall Panel top framing at
the front. Complete both sides.
Hardware
Y2 - 90° Metal Bracket
x 4 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 16 total
90° Metal Brackets
29. With outside rafters properly secured, attach remaining interior rafters using
1 - 2 1/2” Screw per rafter end. Screw into rafters from inside of Header on an angle
at front of shed, and from inside of Extender Wall Framing at rear of shed.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 14 total
30. Carefully flip Roof Panels over so plywood sheathing is facing up.
Center 3F - Facia Nailing Strips onto outside of each panel flush with
plywood. Attach with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws evenly spaced. The Facia Nailing
Strip provides for a greater nailing surface later when you attach side facia.
Parts
3F - Facia Nailing Strips
(3/4” x 3/4” x 51”) x 2
Front - Shingle overhang
Inside - Shingles flush
Outside Side
Facia Nailing
Strip.
Outside - Shingle overhang
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 8 total
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Page 20