OLT GS84-SLIDER-METAL-FJ User manual

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Page 1
8x4 GardenSaver
Sliding Door - Metal Roof - FJ Siding
Assembly Manual
Revision #1.4
July 14, 2021
Thank you for purchasing
a 8x4 GardenSaver Shed
with Sliding Door. Please
take the time to identify all
the parts prior to assembly.
Please be aware that it is the
customers’ sole responsibility
to acquire the necessary
building permits and or obtain
approval from their local
county, municipality or HOA
prior to purchasing. Generally,
shed structures under 100
square feet do not require
permits in most jurisdictions
in the United States and
Canada.
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 with-
in 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day
grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.
Stock Code:
GS84-SLIDER-METAL-FJ

What to do before my Shed arrives?
Become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can•
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor.
Clear the construcon area and ensure a clear pathway for delivery when•
the freight company arrives. Remove all debris: roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Excavate the site. Contact your local ulies company to ensure there are•
no gas or electric lines buried in the area before digging.
Decide on the type of foundaon you will be using:•
 Concrete slab, or
 46 inches of crushed gravel with paver stones or 4x4 stringers.
You can find the footprint for your shed on Page 3 of your Assembly Manual.
If doing the assembly yourself, have all the necessary tools ready to go and•
in working condion. A list of required tools can be found aer the parts list.
One helper is recommended to assist in construcng your shed.•
It generally takes two people two days to assemble a shed. If you’re hiring
a contractor, their rate should be in line with that duraon of work.
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Page 2

Foundation Types for 8x4 Garden Shed
Concrete Slab Foundation:
- Slab must be at least the same size as assembled floor frame (45 1/2” x 96”) or larger.
- 6” Deep foundation.
- 0.6 Cubic Yards of concrete required.
- A concrete slab will have the longest durability out of your foundation options.
Once level, a concrete slab is the easiest surface to build on.
Gravel with 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.0 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximately 9 wheelbarrows.
- 3 - 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers 8’ long required.
- Evenly spaced, with one at each end of floor frame.
Saves money on materials, easy to level and work with.
Gravel with Patio Paver Stones:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.0 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximately 9 wheelbarrows.
- 15 patio pavers (8” x 8” or larger).
- Center patio paver stones underneath floor runners and underneath seams in floor joists.
Patio paver stones are widely available from most landscape stores.
45 1/2”
96”
45 1/2”
96”
6” Deep
67 1/2”
108”
3 - 4”x4”x96”
15 Patio Stones
Floor FrameConcrete Foundation Completed Foundation
17 1/2”
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with treated stringers Completed Foundation
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with Patio Pavers Completed Foundation
67 1/2”
108”
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Page 3

Thank you for purchasing our 8x4 GardenSaver Shed with Sliding Door - Metal Roof.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Parts List:
A. Floor Section
1 - 45 ½” x 75” - Large Floor Frame (2 Joists unattached)
1 - 45 ½” x 21” - Small Floor Frame (2 Joists ATTACHED)
2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 71 7/8” - Floor Joists
(Steps 1 - 3)
2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Floor Runners Short
3 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 47 ¾” - Floor Runners Long
(Steps 4 - 5)
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 75” - Plywood Flooring
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 21” - Plywood Flooring
(Steps 6 - 8)
B. Wall Section
5 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 45 ½” - Wall Plates
4 - 45 ½” x 75” - Wall Panels
1 - 45 ½” x 73” - Front Wall Panel
(Steps 9 - 17)
1 - 2” x 3 ⅜” x 68 1/4” - Door Header - Long (Dado on edge)
1 - 2” x 3 ⅜” x 22 3/4” - Door Header - Short (Dado on edge)
1 - 1 ½” x 3 ⅜” x 73” - Door Jamb - Vertical
(Steps 18 - 19)
2 - Top Triangular Siding Pc for Angle Wall Extendors (L/R)
2 - 45 ¼” - Angle Wall Extendors (L/R)
2 - 9” x 45 ½” - Wall Extendors
2 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 42 3/8”- Extendor Wall Cleats
(Steps 20 - 27)
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 70” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 21” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
(Step 28)
C. Rafter & Roof Section
6 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafters
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Front Soffits
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Rear Soffits
(Steps 31 - 36)
6 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 50” - Roof Battens
4 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 21 1/2” - Batten Spacers
(Steps 37 - 40)
2 - Rafter/Facia Nailing Strips - ¾” x ¾” x 51”
(Step 41)
3 - Metal Roof Panels - 39” w x 58 1/2” d
(Steps 42 - 48)
Foam Enclosures - Several Strips
(Step 47)
D. Miscellaneous Section
(Skirting, Trim, Door, Facia & Misc. Parts)
4 - ½” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Bottom Skirting (Finger Jointed)
2 - ½” x 4” x 45 1/4”) - Front Bottom Skirting
(Steps 49 - 51)
6 - ¾”x 2 ½” x 36” - Corner Filler Trims
2 - ¾” x 2 ½” x 36” - Corner Filler Trims - Front Left (Step 18)
2 - ¾” x 2 ½” x 10” - Front Top Corner Filler Trims
(Steps 18 & 29 & 52)
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 79” - Rear Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 88 ¾” - Front Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 80” - Side Rear Corner Trims
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 79” - Rear Middle Trim
2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Side Front Corner Trims
(Steps 53 - 56)
Sliding Door Parts
1 - 49” x 74” - Sliding Door
1 - 71” long - Aluminum Door Track with Hanging Brackets
1 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 80 3/4” - Lower Door Track
1 - 3/4” x 4” x 87 3/4” - Lower Door Track Cover
2 - 1 1/2” x 3” x 3 1/2” - Lower Door Track Stops
1 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 87 3/4” - Top Track Overlay
1 - 3/4” x 5 ½” x 87 3/4” - Top Track Overlay - Front
2 - ½” x 4 1/4” x 43 7/8” - (Bevel Siding) - Track Overlay Sill
1 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 66 7/8” - Door Stop
(Steps 57 - 66)
2 - ½” x 4” x 54 1/8” - Side Facia (Angle Cut Ends) - reverse
4 - ½” x 4” x 50 ½” - Front and Rear Facia
(Steps 67 - 69)
2 - 6” x 60” angled - Front Metal Drip Caps
(Step 70)
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 6 1/4” - Front Middle Trim
(Step 71)
1 - Detail Facia Plate (4” high)
(Step 72)
1 - 18” x 22 ½” - Window Insert
1 - 24 1/16” angle cut / 3 -23” straight cut - Window Trim Pkg
(Step 73 - 74)
1 - 45 ¼” - Extra Piece of Bevel Wall Siding - Use if wall panel
siding is damaged or to shim floor or door.
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will
be positioned rough face out when installed.
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Page 4

8x4 GARDENSAVER WITH SLIDING DOOR AND METAL ROOF HARDWARE PACKAGE
Door Handle x 1
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” & 1/2” Drill Bits
Utility Knife
1 1/2”
Finishing Nail 245 Pcs.
Black Hasp x 1 Roller Assembly x 2
Torx Drive Bit
x 14
1/4” x 2” long
Metal Roof Screw
Metal Roof Hanger x 3
x 1
1/4” Nut Driver
Y2 - 90° Metal
Bracket (Roof) x 4
Silicon Caulking (1)
2 1/2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
175 Pcs.
140 Pcs.
12 Pcs.
Black Headed
6 Pcs.
1 1/2”
4”
8 Pcs.
Torx Screws
3” 15 Pcs.
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Page 5

Regular Maintenance & Tips to prolong the life of your shed.
Before/During Assembly:
1.) Paint each face and edge of your plywood floor with a latex exterior paint.
2.) Caulk wall seams if gaps appear.
3.) Caulk around window framing.
4.) Caulk perimeter between floor plywood and bottom wall plate.
5.) Caulk channels in lap siding at the top of your door above the trim, just a drop in each channel.
6.) Caulk edge of door threshold.
7.) Optional: Install a Sill Gasket between floor runners and foundation.
8.) Optional: Install an 8” strip of roofing paper below Cedar Ridge Caps for Cedar Roof Sheds.
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7.
Sill Gasket
Floor Joists
Floor Runner
Foundation
8.
Floor Plywood
Wall Panel
Small gap between
bevel siding and
window trim
Dab of caulking
Strip of roofing paper over
apex of roof panels
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Page 6
Routine Maintenance:
- Routinely check all fasteners are tight (ex. Door Hinges, Nails)
- Brush off dirt from walls.
- Brush off snow from roof regularly.
- Routinely remove needles and leaves from roof.
Painting/Staining
- Your cedar shed, if left untreated, will weather to a silvery grey colour.
- Painting or staining your structure is highly recommended and will prolong the life of your shed.
- You do not need to wait to paint or stain your shed, the wood in your kit has been dried and can be
—stained or painted immediately.
- Consult your local paint store for the best paint or stain for cedar.
- Optional: stain the inside of your shed. (Note: this will remove the fresh cedar smell.)

A. Floor Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete Floor Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting. Note: Floor Footprint is
96” wide x 45 1/2” deep.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists (1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) as illustrated
above. Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to
determine joist position. Position Joist so flush with framing.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws (2 per end). You can find
the Square Drive Bit for the screws in with the Hardware Kit Bag.
Front of GardenSaver
Door Location. Small Floor
Joist Frame.
You can find the
Square Drive Bit, for
the screws, in the
Hardware Kit Bag.
Plywood Floor
Large Floor
Joist Frame
Floor Joists (2)
Floor Runners
Short (2)
Small Floor
Joist Frame
Exploded Floor Section
Foundation Material
not included. Floor Runners
Long (3)
Flush
with
framing.
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Page 7

3. With Floor Joist Frames positioned together
flush, attach with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws.
4th Runner
96”
45 1/2”
5. Align Floor Runners - Long (1 ½” x 3 ½” x 47 ¾”) evenly spaced as shown above and flush with
the back of the Floor Frame. On the front, Runners will extend 2” past the Floor Frame to provide sup-
port for the Sliding Door Track later in the Assembly. Attach with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws per Runner. Make
sure 4th Runner is placed equally over seam where floor frames meet.With Floor Runners attached,
carefully flip the floor over and place on your foundation. Caution - Be careful when laying floor down
not to bend or twist floor. Note: Having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary
between regions. Typical foundations can be concrete pads or patio stones positioned underneath the
floor runners.
6. When in place, level floor completely
before proceeding.
7. Position Plywood Floor pieces (2) on top of
completed floor joists.
Flush with Floor Framing.
Front
4. Position and attach Floor Runners Short
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) on each side of the
completed floor frame with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws
per Runner. Make sure Runners are flush with
outside of floor framing but not overhanging.
Long Floor Runners overhanging Floor Frame on front
Floor Runners flush with Floor Frame on Back
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Page 8

B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Angled Wall
Extendors (2)
Door Header - Long
Solid Wall
Panel (4)
Wall Plate (5)
Door Jamb Solid Front Wall
Panel - 73” high
Horizontal
Wall Cleats
Wall Extendors (2)
Wall Plate
9. Locate 5 Solid Wall Panels and 5 Wall Plates (1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”). Attach Plates to
bottom of studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush with framing.
Door Header
- Short
Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior to
screwing. This will make it much
easier to attached together.
Pilot Hole
first.
Extendor Wall
Cleats (2)
Extendor Top Siding
piece (2)
7/8” thick Filler Trim
3/4” thick Filler Trim
8. Position Plywood so it sits almost flush with outside of floor joist framing (see Note). When correctly
positioned, attach to all floor joists with approximately 24 - 1 1/4” Screws. Use screws every 16”.
Note: Plywood is cut slightly smaller than
floor framing. Keep plywood seams tight.
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Page 9

10. Starting on side, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor.
The Wall Panel bottom framing will sit flush with floor framing. Wall siding will
overhang the floor. Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their
upright position. If not, water may leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Recently attached Bottom Plate is on bottom of panel.
11. Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel should be flush with outside of floor framing when properly
aligned. Note: Do not align wall siding to floor. Align wall plate to outside of plywood floor. When
positioned correctly, locate 2nd Solid Wall Panel and place in corner.
Wall Plate Flush
with floor frame.
Do not align
wall siding to
floor. Align
wall plate to
outside of
floor frame.
12. Butt both vertical wall studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly. Have helper push wall framing
together while securing to ensure tight fit. Note: Drill pilot holes in studs to prevent splitting.
Rear Solid Wall
Side Solid Wall
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor until Step 30.
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking not
included in kit.
Pilot Hole
first.
Wall Plate
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Page 10

13. With the corner wall attachment complete, position the second rear wall panel in place so
bottom 2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor framing. Wall siding should overhang floor by
approximately 3/4”. When positioned correctly, attach both wall panel studs together as per
Step 12 with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
14. With Rear Wall Panel in place, position other side wall panel on floor as per Step 10 & 11.
Rear Wall Panel
15. Secure side wall panel to rear wall panel as per Step 12. Next, locate the Front Wall Panel
(73” high) and position in front right corner.
Pilot Hole
first.
Pilot Hole
first.
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Page 11

16. Once again position the 2x3 wall plate so it
sits flush on floor and siding overhangs.
Note: Front Wall Panel is only 73” high.
19. Locate both Door Headers - Long and Short (step facing up and out). Attach long header using
5 - 2 1/2” Screws. Pre-drill right side and angle screw down. Line up header/filler/wall stud as shown
above. Position and attach short header using 2 - 2 1/2” Screws as shown above.
18. Locate Front Left Corner Filler Trims (2 @ 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 36”) and Door Jamb
(1 1/2” x 3 3/8” x 73”). Attach both Fillers with 4 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails as shown above. Place
Door Jamb against inside wall stud and align with edge of filler. Attach Jamb with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
17. When correctly positioned, secure
Front Wall Stud to Side Wall Stud with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Pilot Hole
first.
3/4” thick
Filler.
Door
Jamb.
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Page 12

21. Align wall framing of Angled Wall Extendor and Side Wall so they are flush at the front. The
siding for both walls should also align evenly from front to back.
22. With Angled Wall Extendor and Side Wall aligned correctly, secure together from the inside with
4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
20. Locate an Angled Wall Extendor and Top Siding Piece for Angled Wall Extendor (L/R).
Position top siding on wall extendor and align as shown above. Attach with 3 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails
to top wall framing. There are left/right top siding pieces. Use rough surface side out.
Place finished wall extendor on side wall panel frame. Complete both sides now.
Note: Bottom siding of wall extendor will overhang and cover siding of side wall.
Wall framings
flush.
Siding
lines up.
Sidings will
overlap.
4”
Top Siding Pc.
Top Siding Pc. for Angle Wall
can also be installed after Roof
is attached after Step 46.
Side Wall Panel
4”
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Page 13

23. Complete opposite Angled Wall Extendor positioning and attachment as per Steps 21 & 22.
24. Locate one Wall Extendor and place on Door Header with extendor framing flush with inside
edge of Header. Overhanging siding on front of extendor will rest in notch of Header.
1/4”
recess.
25. Attach Wall Extendor to both the Angled Wall Extendor framing and the Door Header with
5 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Pilot Hole
first. Flush
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Page 14

26. Position and secure 2nd Wall Extendor Panel as per Steps 24 & 25. Additionally, attach to first
Extendor with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Pilot Hole
first.
28. Align Horizontal Wall Cleats (1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 70”, 1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 21”) flush with top of
Rear Wall framing. To help strengthen the Rear Walls, there is a short and a long wall cleat which
meet off-center from the seam between walls. Attach Cleats with 8 - 1 1/4” Screws.
27. With Extendor Walls attached, position Extendor Wall Cleats (2 @ 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 42 3/8”)
in the lower section of each Extendor Wall. Attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws per cleat.
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Page 15

99 1/4”
Advice: Prior to fastening walls and
installing rafters, take time to confirm your
walls are level, square and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom of
walls corner-to-corner. This should be
approximately 99 1/4”. More importantly,
if measurements are not within 1/4”, your
walls are not square. Adjusting now will
make it easier to install roof section.
99 1/4”
29. Position and attach Front Right Corner Filler Trims (2 @ 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 36”) with
4 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails per piece.
Attach Front Top Corner Filler Trim (2 @ 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 10”) to both sides as shown
above. Use 2 - 1 1/2 Finishing Nails per piece. Filler trims won’t be visible because
they serve as nailing strips for the Corner Trims which will be attached later.
3/4” Thick
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Page 16

C. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Rafter and Roof Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
30. To complete Wall
Section, attach bottom 2x3
wall plates to plywood floor
with 20 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Confirm Doorway opening is
44” wide. Prior to securing,
make sure wall panels are
aligned correctly on the floor.
Refer to Step 11. Wall siding
should overhang floor while
2x3 wall plates should sit flush
with floor.
Bottom Wall
Optional - Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
Pilot
Hole first.
44” Wide Door
Opening (top/bot)
Metal Roof
Panels (3)
Rear Soffits (2)
Rafters (6)
Front Soffits (2)
Roof Battens
(6)
Foam
Enclosures
(Multiple
Pieces)
Facia/Roof
Nailing
Strips (2)
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Page 17

31. Locate 6 Rafters, 2 Rear Soffits and 2 Front Soffits. Lay out on level ground and assemble as
shown in Illustrations A through C below. Attach Soffit Boards flush to end of
outside rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter end. Important: Drill pilot holes in Soffit ends to
prevent splitting. Measure and attach interior Rafters as illustrated above. Measure and attach
remaining Soffit/Rafter connections using 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter/soffit.
Front Soffit Boards (2)
Rear Soffit
Boards (2)
48”
21 3/4”
21 3/4”
96”
A. B. C.
Rear Soffit
Mid Rafter Mid Rafter
Rear
Front Soffits
Screw center rafters together
with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each
screw, to avoid splitting wood. The hole depth should be
equal to 3/4 the length of screw.
Confirm angles on rafter
ends are aligned.
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Page 18

Rear Soffit.
Front Soffit.
Rear Walls
Rafter sits on framing
33. Position completed Rafter Section on top of walls. Outside Rafters will sit on Extension Wall
framing and be positioned equally from side to side.
34. When Rafter Section is positioned correctly, both Front and Rear Soffits will sit approximately 1/8”
away from wall siding. This can vary slightly.
32. Carefully flip completed Rafter Section over so Front Soffit is facing the front and place on
SpaceSaver walls. Note: Double check that your Rafter Section is positioned correctly by ensuring the
ends of the Rafters are sloped vertically as shown above.
Rafter ends vertical.
Side View
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Page 19

35. With Rafter Section correctly aligned, secure rafters to walls using 90° Metal Brackets. Start with
outside rafters and secure 2 Brackets with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws per bracket. Screw into Wall Extension
Framing at the front, and Wall Panel top framing at the rear. Complete both sides.
90° Metal Brackets
36. With outside rafters properly secured, completely secure remaining interior rafters using
8 - 2 1/2” Screws. Screw into rafters from inside of Extension Wall framing at front of shed and inside
Rear Wall framing at rear of shed, behind Horizontal Wall Cleats.
Front
37. Position first row of
Roof Battens (3/4” thick x 3
1/2” wide x 50” long x 2 )
on front of roof rafters. Place
flush with rafter end. Batten
will sit on evenly on center
rafters overhanging 2” on the
outside rafters.
Attach batten with 1 - 1 1/4”
screw per each rafter. Pre-
drill with 1/8” drill bit first to
prevent end from splitting.
Complete attachments of
both 50” long roof battens.
Center Rafters
Flush with
rafter end.
Overhanging
2” on outside
rafter.
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