OLT 12x8 Cabana User manual

Version #1.0
June 22, 2020
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 1
Thank you for purchasing
a 12x8 Cabana. Please take
the time to identify all the
parts prior to assembly.
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 with-
in 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day
grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation on level ground and
normal residential use. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
shed and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Customers are responsible for ensuring
a solid, level, well-draining site for
construction.
Please check with your local municipal
or county by-laws before ordering this
product to confirm it complies with
building codes.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.
12x8 Cabana -
Plywood - Slider
Assembly Manual
Roof Area: 113 sqft

Thank you for purchasing our 12x8 Cabana Garden Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
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Page 2
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.
1. Floor Section
Floors
3 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Floor Joist Frames - Large
3 - 45 1/2” x 21” - Floor Joist Frames - Small
6 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8” - Center Floor Joists - Unattached
8 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16” - Floor Runners
2 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 13 1/2” - Door Side Floor Runner
2 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 26 3/4” - Door Side Floor Runner
1 - 1 1/2 x 3 1/2” x 42” - Door Side Floor Runnner
4 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 15” - Bottom Track Supports
3 - 45 3/8” x 74 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Large
3 - 45 3/8” x 20 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Small
2. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
7 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Solid Wall Panels
7 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Bottom Wall Plates
2 - 35” x 73” - Front Wall Panels
Door Headers
1 - 2” x 3” x 82 1/2” - Door Header (metal strip attached)
2 - 2” x 3” x 27” - Door Header Short
1 - 1 1/2” x 3” x 66 1/2” - Interior Door Header
Top Wall Plates & Gables
6 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32” - Side Top Plates
(4 pieces angle cut on end, 2 piece straight cut both ends)
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 65 3/4” - Front & Rear Top Plates (angle cut edge)
4 - Gable Half Walls - Triangular Shaped
3. Rafter and Roof Section
Rafter Assembly
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” - Roof Ridge Boards
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Roof Ridge Boards
18 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2” - Roof Rafters (angle cut ends)
4 - 1” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4” - Soffits
4 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 48” - Rafter Nailing Cleat
3 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72” - Roof Gussets (angle cut on ends)
Roof
4 - 5/8” x 48” x 72” - Large Plywood Roof Panel
4 - 5/8” x 8 5/8” x 72’ - Small Plywood Roof Panel
4. Trim & Miscellaneous Section
Outer Wall Trim
7 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Bottom Skirting (Bevel)
3 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Bottom Skirting Door Side (non-bevel)
4 - 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Filler Trim
Sliding Doors
2 - 65” long - Aluminum Door Tracks
2 - 36” x 73” - Sliding Doors
2 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 60 3/4” - Door Tracks
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 x 3 1/2” - Door Stops
2 - 3/4” x 4” x 41” - Door Track Cover
2 - 3/4” x 4” x 50” - Door Track Cover
1 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 71 1/2” - Interior Door Flange
Outer Wall Trim Continued
3 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Top Wall Trim (Bevel)
4 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 43 1/4” - Horizontal Gable Trim (Bevel)
4 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 79” - Corner Trim
4 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 82” - Wide Corner Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 79” - Rear Wall Narrow Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 77 1/2” - Side Wall Narrow Trim
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48” - Facia Nailing Strips
Facia Trim
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48” - Facia Nailing Strips
4 - 3/4” x 5 1/2” x 58” - Side Facia (Angle cut on ends - 2 right / 2 left)
4 - 3/4” x 5 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Front and Rear Facia
2 - Pentagon Facia Plate - For Side Facia Peaks
2 - Horizontal Gable Trim Detail Plates - 4 1/2” high
2 - Facia Detail Plates - 5 1/2” high
Miscellaneous
2 - Metal Window Inserts
2 - Window Trim Pkgs - (1 - 24 1/16” angle cut / 3 - 23” square cut)
1 - Extra Lap Siding
1 - Spare Wall Siding
2 - Spare Shingles - use to shim door, etc
21, 25
Steps
Steps
23-27
Steps
51-52
53-58
66-68
Steps
14-20
1-13
28-41
69-72
Parts List - Page 2
Continued on next page
42-50
59-65

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Page 3
12 x 8 CABANA HARDWARE SHEET
S1 - 2 1/2”
S3 - 2”
S2 - 1 1/4”
SS2 - 3/4”
N1 - 1 1/2”
Silver
Finishing
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses
Work Gloves
Safety Equipment
Required (Not Provided)
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
Drill Bits
Y2 - 90° Metal
Bracket x 8
280 Pcs
145 Pcs
325 Pcs
2 Pcs
310 Pcs
16 Pcs
16 Pcs
Black Headed
Y30 - Single
Rafter Bracket x 6 Y31 - Double
Rafter Bracket x 4
Ladder
SB1 - 3/4”
BR1
Y3 - Black Handle x 2
Y9 - Ridge Board
Connector x 2
S4 - 3” 26 Pcs
Y11 - Black Hasp
Y35 - Roller Assembly x4

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Page 4
Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?

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Page 5
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with
the Hardware Kit Bag.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists as
illustrated above. Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame.
Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to determine
joist position. Position Joist so flush with framing.
Parts (Steps 1 - 6)
Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) x 6
Floor Joist Frames - Large
(45 1/2” x 75”) x 3
Floor Joist Frames - Small
(45 1/2” x 21”) x 3
Hardware (Steps 1 - 6)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 58 total
A. Floor Section
Plywood Floor
Large (3)
Floor Joist
Frames
Large (3)
Floor Runners (8)
Plywood Floor
Small (3)
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Floor Joist
Frames
Small (3)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note: Floor Footprint is 136 1/2” wide x 96” deep.
Flush
with
framing
Door Side Floor
Runner 13 1/2” (2)
Door Side Floor
Runner 26 3/4” (2)
Door Side Floor
Runner 42” (1)
Bottom Track
Supports (4)
Center Floor Joists (unattached)
(6)

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Page 6
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (2 per end). You can find the
Square Drive Screw Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag.
3. Lay out Floor Joist Frames as illustrated.
There are 3 larger and 3 smaller Frame Sections.
The Footprint for the floor when attached together
will be 136 1/2” wide x 96” deep.
5. Complete all large and small frame
attachments. Screw each completed section
together with 8 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Front of Shed
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
4. Attach each large and small floor joist
frame together with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws per
section.
96”
136 1/2”
6. When completed, your floor footprint
should be 136 1/2” wide x 96” deep.

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Page 7
7. Attach Floor Runners to completed floor frame.
There are 2 Floor Runners per 136 1/2” side and
5 completed Runners in total. Use 6 - 2 1/2” Screws
per Runner. Important: Begin on the non-door side and
leave the door side floor runner to the end to attach bot-
tom track supports in Step 10.
Parts (Steps 7 - 9)
Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16”) x 8
Hardware (Steps 7 - 9)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 60 total
8. Make sure Runners are flush with
outside and front and rear floor framing
but not overhanging.
9. Complete remaining 3 sets of Floor
Runners leaving the door side Floor
Runner to Step 10.
Note: The floor will be flipped over
and the floor runners will sit on your
foundation. It is important to note, that
having a level foundation is critical.
Choosing a foundation will vary between
regions. Typical foundations can be
concrete pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
Foundations
Door Side
10. Locate Door Side Floor Runners and Bottom Track
Supports. Important: Bottom Track Supports are used to
support sliding door track, ensure floor runners and supports
are on the door side of your shed. Bottom Track Supports
should extend 2” past edge of Door Side Floor Runner.
Secure runners and supports to floor frame with 19 - 2 1/2”
screws.
Parts (Steps 10)
Door Side Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 13 1/2”) x 2
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 26 3/4”) x 2
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 42”) x 1
Bottom Track Supports
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 15”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 10)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 19 total
Door Side
2” Overhang past Door Side
Floor Runner.
Door Side
2” Overhang

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Page 8
Hint: Use a chalk line
to mark location of floor
joists to determine
screw placement.
Front
12. Position all Large & Small Plywood Floor pieces
on top of completed floor joists. Plywood will sit flush with
outside of floor joist frame.
Parts (Steps 12 - 13)
Plywood Floor - Large
(45 3/8” x 74 7/8”) x 3
Plywood Floor - Small
(45 3/8” x 20 7/8”) x 3
Hardware (Steps 12 - 13)
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 70 total (approx)
Important - Make sure floor is
level before moving on to wall
section. Use a level to confirm,
and shim floor joists as required.
13. With Plywood positioned correctly on
floor framing, attach with 1 1/4” Screws.
Use screws every 16”.
push plywood
together at seams.
Door Side
Completed Floor
configuration
11. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip
the floor over and place on your foundation.
Caution: you will need 2 people to assist you.
Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or
twist floor. When in place, level floor completely.
Concrete Slab
Foundation

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Page 9
14. Lay out all the wall
panelsand become famil-
iar with their location.
On Standard Kits, there
are 2 Front Wall Panels,
and 7 Solid Wall Panels
Make sure to position
panels right side up so
water is directed away
from and not into shed.
Look at front wall panels
to determine proper wall
position to confirm.
B. Wall Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Wall Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting.
Front Wall
Panel (2)
Front and Rear Top Plates (4)
(Angle cut on edge)
Side Top Plates (6)
(4 Angle cut on one end
and 2 square cut.)
Gable Walls (4)
Solid Wall
Panels (7)
Door Header Bottom Wall
Plates (7)Interior Door Header
Door Header Sides(2)
Important: Front Wall Panels
on same side as Bottom
Track Supports

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Page 10
15. For each Solid Wall Panel, carefully lay panel
face down. Position and attach a Bottom Wall
Plate to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush with
framing.
Parts
Solid Wall Panels
(45 1/2” x 75”) x 7
Bottom Wall Plates
(1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 7
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 21 total
Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior
to screwing. This will make it
much easier to attach
together.
Pilot Hole
first.
Bottom Wall Plate
Side of Shed
16. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Solid Wall Panel
on top of plywood floor. The Wall Panel bottom framing
will sit flush with plywood. Wall siding will overhang the
floor. The Rear Wall panels will sit flush at the end of the
plywood floor with the side wall panels sandwiched
between them
Note: Siding will overhang the floor by approximately 1/2”.
1st Rear
Wall Panel
Front of Shed
1st Rear Wall Panel
side of shed
2x3 wall frame
Flush with
Floor Framing
1/2” overhang
Important - Make sure all walls are aligned
in their upright position. If not, water may
leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Compare solid wall
siding to front wall siding and match
orientation.