OLT 12x8 Cabana User manual

Version #1.0
June 22, 2020
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 1
Thank you for purchasing
a 12x8 Cabana. Please take
the time to identify all the
parts prior to assembly.
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 with-
in 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day
grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation on level ground and
normal residential use. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
shed and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Customers are responsible for ensuring
a solid, level, well-draining site for
construction.
Please check with your local municipal
or county by-laws before ordering this
product to confirm it complies with
building codes.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.
12x8 Cabana -
Plywood - Slider
Assembly Manual
Roof Area: 113 sqft

Thank you for purchasing our 12x8 Cabana Garden Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
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Page 2
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.
1. Floor Section
Floors
3 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Floor Joist Frames - Large
3 - 45 1/2” x 21” - Floor Joist Frames - Small
6 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8” - Center Floor Joists - Unattached
8 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16” - Floor Runners
2 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 13 1/2” - Door Side Floor Runner
2 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 26 3/4” - Door Side Floor Runner
1 - 1 1/2 x 3 1/2” x 42” - Door Side Floor Runnner
4 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 15” - Bottom Track Supports
3 - 45 3/8” x 74 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Large
3 - 45 3/8” x 20 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Small
2. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
7 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Solid Wall Panels
7 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Bottom Wall Plates
2 - 35” x 73” - Front Wall Panels
Door Headers
1 - 2” x 3” x 82 1/2” - Door Header (metal strip attached)
2 - 2” x 3” x 27” - Door Header Short
1 - 1 1/2” x 3” x 66 1/2” - Interior Door Header
Top Wall Plates & Gables
6 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32” - Side Top Plates
(4 pieces angle cut on end, 2 piece straight cut both ends)
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 65 3/4” - Front & Rear Top Plates (angle cut edge)
4 - Gable Half Walls - Triangular Shaped
3. Rafter and Roof Section
Rafter Assembly
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” - Roof Ridge Boards
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Roof Ridge Boards
18 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2” - Roof Rafters (angle cut ends)
4 - 1” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4” - Soffits
4 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 48” - Rafter Nailing Cleat
3 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72” - Roof Gussets (angle cut on ends)
Roof
4 - 5/8” x 48” x 72” - Large Plywood Roof Panel
4 - 5/8” x 8 5/8” x 72’ - Small Plywood Roof Panel
4. Trim & Miscellaneous Section
Outer Wall Trim
7 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Bottom Skirting (Bevel)
3 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Bottom Skirting Door Side (non-bevel)
4 - 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Filler Trim
Sliding Doors
2 - 65” long - Aluminum Door Tracks
2 - 36” x 73” - Sliding Doors
2 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 60 3/4” - Door Tracks
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 x 3 1/2” - Door Stops
2 - 3/4” x 4” x 41” - Door Track Cover
2 - 3/4” x 4” x 50” - Door Track Cover
1 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 71 1/2” - Interior Door Flange
Outer Wall Trim Continued
3 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Top Wall Trim (Bevel)
4 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 43 1/4” - Horizontal Gable Trim (Bevel)
4 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 79” - Corner Trim
4 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 82” - Wide Corner Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 79” - Rear Wall Narrow Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 77 1/2” - Side Wall Narrow Trim
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48” - Facia Nailing Strips
Facia Trim
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48” - Facia Nailing Strips
4 - 3/4” x 5 1/2” x 58” - Side Facia (Angle cut on ends - 2 right / 2 left)
4 - 3/4” x 5 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Front and Rear Facia
2 - Pentagon Facia Plate - For Side Facia Peaks
2 - Horizontal Gable Trim Detail Plates - 4 1/2” high
2 - Facia Detail Plates - 5 1/2” high
Miscellaneous
2 - Metal Window Inserts
2 - Window Trim Pkgs - (1 - 24 1/16” angle cut / 3 - 23” square cut)
1 - Extra Lap Siding
1 - Spare Wall Siding
2 - Spare Shingles - use to shim door, etc
21, 25
Steps
Steps
23-27
Steps
51-52
53-58
66-68
Steps
14-20
1-13
28-41
69-72
Parts List - Page 2
Continued on next page
42-50
59-65

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Page 3
12 x 8 CABANA HARDWARE SHEET
S1 - 2 1/2”
S3 - 2”
S2 - 1 1/4”
SS2 - 3/4”
N1 - 1 1/2”
Silver
Finishing
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses
Work Gloves
Safety Equipment
Required (Not Provided)
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
Drill Bits
Y2 - 90° Metal
Bracket x 8
280 Pcs
145 Pcs
325 Pcs
2 Pcs
310 Pcs
16 Pcs
16 Pcs
Black Headed
Y30 - Single
Rafter Bracket x 6 Y31 - Double
Rafter Bracket x 4
Ladder
SB1 - 3/4”
BR1
Y3 - Black Handle x 2
Y9 - Ridge Board
Connector x 2
S4 - 3” 26 Pcs
Y11 - Black Hasp
Y35 - Roller Assembly x4

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Page 4
Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?

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Page 5
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with
the Hardware Kit Bag.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists as
illustrated above. Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame.
Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to determine
joist position. Position Joist so flush with framing.
Parts (Steps 1 - 6)
Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) x 6
Floor Joist Frames - Large
(45 1/2” x 75”) x 3
Floor Joist Frames - Small
(45 1/2” x 21”) x 3
Hardware (Steps 1 - 6)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 58 total
A. Floor Section
Plywood Floor
Large (3)
Floor Joist
Frames
Large (3)
Floor Runners (8)
Plywood Floor
Small (3)
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Floor Joist
Frames
Small (3)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note: Floor Footprint is 136 1/2” wide x 96” deep.
Flush
with
framing
Door Side Floor
Runner 13 1/2” (2)
Door Side Floor
Runner 26 3/4” (2)
Door Side Floor
Runner 42” (1)
Bottom Track
Supports (4)
Center Floor Joists (unattached)
(6)

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Page 6
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (2 per end). You can find the
Square Drive Screw Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag.
3. Lay out Floor Joist Frames as illustrated.
There are 3 larger and 3 smaller Frame Sections.
The Footprint for the floor when attached together
will be 136 1/2” wide x 96” deep.
5. Complete all large and small frame
attachments. Screw each completed section
together with 8 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Front of Shed
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
4. Attach each large and small floor joist
frame together with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws per
section.
96”
136 1/2”
6. When completed, your floor footprint
should be 136 1/2” wide x 96” deep.

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Page 7
7. Attach Floor Runners to completed floor frame.
There are 2 Floor Runners per 136 1/2” side and
5 completed Runners in total. Use 6 - 2 1/2” Screws
per Runner. Important: Begin on the non-door side and
leave the door side floor runner to the end to attach bot-
tom track supports in Step 10.
Parts (Steps 7 - 9)
Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16”) x 8
Hardware (Steps 7 - 9)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 60 total
8. Make sure Runners are flush with
outside and front and rear floor framing
but not overhanging.
9. Complete remaining 3 sets of Floor
Runners leaving the door side Floor
Runner to Step 10.
Note: The floor will be flipped over
and the floor runners will sit on your
foundation. It is important to note, that
having a level foundation is critical.
Choosing a foundation will vary between
regions. Typical foundations can be
concrete pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
Foundations
Door Side
10. Locate Door Side Floor Runners and Bottom Track
Supports. Important: Bottom Track Supports are used to
support sliding door track, ensure floor runners and supports
are on the door side of your shed. Bottom Track Supports
should extend 2” past edge of Door Side Floor Runner.
Secure runners and supports to floor frame with 19 - 2 1/2”
screws.
Parts (Steps 10)
Door Side Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 13 1/2”) x 2
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 26 3/4”) x 2
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 42”) x 1
Bottom Track Supports
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 15”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 10)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 19 total
Door Side
2” Overhang past Door Side
Floor Runner.
Door Side
2” Overhang

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Page 8
Hint: Use a chalk line
to mark location of floor
joists to determine
screw placement.
Front
12. Position all Large & Small Plywood Floor pieces
on top of completed floor joists. Plywood will sit flush with
outside of floor joist frame.
Parts (Steps 12 - 13)
Plywood Floor - Large
(45 3/8” x 74 7/8”) x 3
Plywood Floor - Small
(45 3/8” x 20 7/8”) x 3
Hardware (Steps 12 - 13)
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 70 total (approx)
Important - Make sure floor is
level before moving on to wall
section. Use a level to confirm,
and shim floor joists as required.
13. With Plywood positioned correctly on
floor framing, attach with 1 1/4” Screws.
Use screws every 16”.
push plywood
together at seams.
Door Side
Completed Floor
configuration
11. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip
the floor over and place on your foundation.
Caution: you will need 2 people to assist you.
Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or
twist floor. When in place, level floor completely.
Concrete Slab
Foundation

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Page 9
14. Lay out all the wall
panelsand become famil-
iar with their location.
On Standard Kits, there
are 2 Front Wall Panels,
and 7 Solid Wall Panels
Make sure to position
panels right side up so
water is directed away
from and not into shed.
Look at front wall panels
to determine proper wall
position to confirm.
B. Wall Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Wall Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting.
Front Wall
Panel (2)
Front and Rear Top Plates (4)
(Angle cut on edge)
Side Top Plates (6)
(4 Angle cut on one end
and 2 square cut.)
Gable Walls (4)
Solid Wall
Panels (7)
Door Header Bottom Wall
Plates (7)Interior Door Header
Door Header Sides(2)
Important: Front Wall Panels
on same side as Bottom
Track Supports

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Page 10
15. For each Solid Wall Panel, carefully lay panel
face down. Position and attach a Bottom Wall
Plate to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush with
framing.
Parts
Solid Wall Panels
(45 1/2” x 75”) x 7
Bottom Wall Plates
(1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 7
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 21 total
Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior
to screwing. This will make it
much easier to attach
together.
Pilot Hole
first.
Bottom Wall Plate
Side of Shed
16. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Solid Wall Panel
on top of plywood floor. The Wall Panel bottom framing
will sit flush with plywood. Wall siding will overhang the
floor. The Rear Wall panels will sit flush at the end of the
plywood floor with the side wall panels sandwiched
between them
Note: Siding will overhang the floor by approximately 1/2”.
1st Rear
Wall Panel
Front of Shed
1st Rear Wall Panel
side of shed
2x3 wall frame
Flush with
Floor Framing
1/2” overhang
Important - Make sure all walls are aligned
in their upright position. If not, water may
leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Compare solid wall
siding to front wall siding and match
orientation.

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Page 11
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor Until Step 23
Side Wall
Rear Wall
Optional - Caulking seams
will help prevent moisture
from entering your shed.
Caulking not included in kit.
17. Position side solid wall into place on plywood floor. Butt both vertical
wall studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly.
Hardware (Steps 17 -19)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 18 total
Rear Wall
Side Wall
18. With the corner wall attachment complete, position a second Side Wall panel in place so bottom
2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor joists and plywood floor. Wall siding should overhang
floor by approximately 1/2”. When positioned correctly, attach both Side Wall panel studs together as
shown.
Pilot Hole
first.

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Page 12
19. Complete all Side and Rear Wall attachments as per Steps 16 - 18.
Pilot Hole
first.
Pilot Hole
first.
Pilot Hole
first.

Pilot Hole
first.
Pilot Hole
first.
20. Position and attach both Front Wall Panels
as per Steps 16 - 19.
Parts
Front Wall Panels
(35”” x 73”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 6 total
21. Locate Door Header and Door Header
Short. Door Header has metal strip attached.
Place door headers on door side of shed with
metal strip facing inside. Secure Short door head-
ers to wall frame with 10 - 3” screws.Use 4 - 3”
screws to secure door header to front walls. Use
Interior Door Header from Step 25 to confirm door-
way is 66 1/2”
Parts
Door Header
(2” x 3” x 82 1/2”) x 1
Door Header Short
(2” x 3” x 27”) x 2
Hardware
S4 - 3” Screws
x 10 total
S1 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 4 total
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Page 13
Pilot Hole
first.

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Page 14
22. When all walls are attached together, check alignment with the floor. Bottom of
wall frames should sit flush with outside of floor framing, with siding overhanging by
approximately 1/2”. Confirm 66 1/2” wide door opening at bottom. When positioned
correctly, fasten Bottom Wall Plates to floor using 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per wall panel.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 36 total
23. Position Side Top Plates (one side only) on top of wall studs so they are flush on the inside.
There are 3 Side Top Plate pieces per side (2 angle cut on one end and one straight cut - both
ends). Together, the plates should be centered evenly on the wall left to right. Attach by screwing
down into top wall framing with 3 - 2” Screws per plate. Angle cut ends will be 1/2” from edge of
door header.
Parts (Steps 23 - 24)
Side Wall Top Plates - 4 Angle Cut End, 2 Straight Cut
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32”) x 6
Front & Rear Wall Top Plates - Angle Cut Edge
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 65 3/4”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 23 - 24)
S3 - 2” Screws
x 34 total
159 7/8”
159 7/8”
Angle
screws into perimeter
Floor Joists.
Pilot Hole
first.
66 1/2”
Advice: Prior to fastening walls and installing rafters, take time to confirm your walls are level, square and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom of walls corner-to-corner. This should be approximately 159 7/8”. More importantly,
if measurements are not within 1/4”, your walls are not square. Adjusting now will make it easier to install roof section.
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking
not included in kit.

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Page 15
24. Next, attach the Front Top Plates. The Front
and Rear Top Plates are angle cut down the length.
Once again, position Top Plates on wall frame so
they are flush. Front and Rear Top Plates will fit
between Side Top Plates. Attach with 4 - 2” Screws
per plate. Complete all other Side &Rear Top Plate
attachments the same.
25. Position Attach Interior Door Header as shown above. Align with top framing of front walls.
Attach with 4 - 2 1/2” screws.
Parts (Steps 25)
Interior Door Header
(1 1/2” x 3” x 66 1/2”) x 1
Hardware (Steps 25)
S3 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 4 total
66 1/2”
Advice: Use Interior Door
Header to confirm doorway
opening is 66 1/2” wide at top
and bottom.

Flashing overhangs
wall on outside.
27. Place completed Gable section so framing sits flush with the inside of the Top Wall Plate. It
should also be centered side-to-side on the Top Wall Plate. Gable Flashing overhangs wall on the
outside. Temporarily attach to Gables and Top Wall Plate with 2 - 2” Screws. Gables may need slight
adjustment in Step 37 when attachment will be completed with an additional 6 Screws. Screw from
the bottom of Gable framing down into Top Wall Plate and Wall Framing. Complete Gable positioning
and attachment on the other side.
Hint: Use a straight edge to check the angle of the Gable framing and Top Plate. Both angles should
line up (see diagram above).
Hardware
S3 - 2” Screws x 4 total
Use a straight edge to check
that angle of Gable lines up
with Top Wall Plate angle.
Adjust Gable for best fit.
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Page 16
Male / Female Gable
Siding Overlap
26. Locate Triangular Gable Half Walls for
both sides of the shed. Align framing and wall
siding lap together. Screw center wall framing of
each piece together with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Note: Prior to attaching, try each combination of
Gables for best fit.
Parts
Triangular Gable Half Walls x 4
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 6 total

C. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Roof Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting.
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Page 17
Ridge Board
Ridge Board
Metal Ridge Board Connector
8 - 3/4” screws
28. Locate (1 each) Long &Short Ridge Boards
and attach together with a metal Ridge Board
Connector using 8 - 3/4” Screws. Total Length when
connected is 136 1/2”. Connect other set of Ridge
Boards the same. Position metal Ridge Board
Connector evenly on Ridge Boards.
Parts
Ridge Boards - Long
(3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84”) x 2
Ridge Boards - Short
(3/4” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2”) x 2
Hardware
SS2 - 3/4” Screws
x 16 total
Y9 - Ridge Board
Connector
x 2 total
Small Roof
Panels (4)
Large Roof
Panels (4)
Roof Rafters
(9 per side)
18 total
Ridge Boards (4)
52 1/2” and
84” long
Soffits (4)
Metal Ridge Board
Connectors (2)
Roof Gussets (3)
Rafter Brackets
Double (4)
Single (6)

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Page 18
Ridge Board
Soffits
Doubled up Rafters
- screw together with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Rafter
Soffit
Important: Pilot
Hole Soffit to
prevent splitting!
Ridge Board
29. Locate 9 Rafters, 2 Soffits and a completed Ridge
Board. Lay out on level ground as shown to the right. Double
up Rafters as illustrated. Screw doubled up Rafters together
with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws per piece.
Parts (Steps 29 - 31)
Rafters
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2”) x 18
Soffits
(1” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 29 - 31)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 12 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws x 28 total
S3 - 2” Screws x 28 total
30. Attach completed Ridge Board to ends of both
outside Rafters with 2 - 2” Screws per end. Measure
and position interior Rafters as illustrated below. When
positioned correctly, attach Ridge Board to remaining
Rafters with 2 - 2” Screws / Rafter end.
31. Attach end of a Soffit flush to ends of outside rafters with
2 - 1 1/4” Screws per Rafter end. Drill pilot holes in Soffit to
prevent splitting. Complete both outside Rafter / Soffit connec-
tions first. Measure and position interior Rafters as illustrated
above. When positioned correctly, attach Soffit to remaining
Rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws per Rafter.
Flip completed rafter section over. Complete 2nd Rafter section
now as per the first, but with the following exception - When
attaching Ridge Board to Rafter ends, make sure Metal
Ridge Board Connector is positioned so offset to first
Rafter Section. See Step 36 for illustration.
Important: Pilot
Hole Ridge Board
to prevent splitting!
136 1/2”
20 1/2”
45 1/2”
68 1/4”
45 1/2”
45 1/2”
20 1/2” Connector
Plate to inside

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Soffit should sit approx. 1/8”
away from wall panel.
34. When Rafter Section is correctly positioned, outside rafters will sit equally on gable framing and
Soffit will sit approximately 1/8” away from wall panels.
Gable Notch
Ridge Board
Rafter
33. Slide Rafter Section up on gable
framing until bottom of Ridge Board slips
into gable notch.
Rafter should rest
on gable framing.
Soffit
Ridge Board
32. Flip Rafter Section over so Soffit is
facing down. Starting with the rear Section,
lift completed rafters up and place on gable
framing.

Gable Notch
Ridge Board
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35. Place front completed Rafter Section
on gable walls as per Steps 32 - 34.
36. At the peak, align Ridge Boards so they
are flush together and secure them with
12 - 1 1/4” Screws.
Important: If there is a gap between Ridge
Boards, have a helper push the front and rear
walls closer together from outside. Walls
should be 91” apart at top from inside of wall
plate to opposite wall plate. To completely
secure Ridge Boards, place 1 1/4” Screws into
any of the remaining metal Ridge Board
Connector holes. Complete both sides.
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws x 20 total (approx.)
37. With both Ridge Boards connected,
completely secure Gable framing to
walls and rafters. Use 4 - 2” Screws per
Rafter. Use an additional 6 - 2” Screws
to secure Gable to wall.
Note: you may have to remove the
2 temporary screws in Gable from
Step 27 and reposition Gable for best
fit prior to completing Gable
attachment.
Hardware
S3 - 2” Screws x 28 total
Offsetting Metal Ridge
Board Connectors.
91” Across