OLT 9x6 Cabana Bevel User manual

9x6 Cabana - Bevel
Assembly Manual
(Metal Roof)
Some of the safety and usage measures you may wish to consider include:
-snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it is advisable to sweep the
snow off the roof(s).
-if the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely the customer's
responsibility, and should be abided by.
-in high or gusty wind conditions it is advisable to keep the structure securely grounded.
-have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are tight.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today Partnership and any Authorized Dealers free
of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and repair.
Version #4
May 26, 2020
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line
@ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier
replacement parts, free of charge, within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be
provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation and normal residential
use, on level ground. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
shed and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Note: The General Assembly Manual
illustrates a Door Configuration in the
front center location. The Door can also
be positioned in the front corners. To
correctly configure Door in front
corners, follow general assembly steps
and refer to Page 39 for required
changes.
Thank you for purchasing
a 9x6 Cabana. Please take
the time to identify all the
parts prior to assembly.

Parts List:
A. Floor Section
3 - 35” x 75” - Floor Joist Frames
2 - 48” x 74 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Large
1 - 8 7/8” x 74 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Small
4 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8” - Floor Joists
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 57” - Floor Runners - Long
3 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 48” - Floor Runners - Short
B. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
7 - 35”w x 75”h - Solid Wall Panels
(7 walls with Bottom Plates Unattached)
7 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2 x 35” - Bottom Wall Plates
2 - 35” x 75” - Window Wall Panels
Door Jambs & Header
2 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73” - Vertical Door Jambs
1 - 2” x 3 1/2” x 35” - Door Header (Notch on edge)
Top Wall Plates
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 50” - Front & Rear Top Wall Plate (Angle cut on edge)
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Side Top Wall Plate (Angle cut on ends)
Gable Walls
2 - Side Gable Walls - Triangular shaped
C. Rafter and Roof Section
18 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45” - Rafters (angle cut)
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 44” - Ridge Boards
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 61” - Ridge Boards
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Soffits (Front and Rear)
3 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 48” - Roof Gussets (angle cut on ends)
8 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 39” Roof Batten (outside)
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 35” Roof Batten (middle)
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 74” Roof Batten (long)
8 - 46 1/2”long x 39” wide Metal Roof Panels
3 - 13”w x 60” Metal Ridge Cap
Several Strips of Foam Enclosures for Metal Roof Ends
D. Trim and Miscellaneous Section
Bottom Skirting
10 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 34 3/4” - Bottom Skirting (Bevel)
Corner & Wall Trim
8 - 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 36” - Filler Trims
5 - 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 34 3/4” - Top Wall Trim (Bevel)
4 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 32 3/4” - Horizontal Gable Trims (Bevel)
4 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 79” - Corner Trims
4 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 82” - Wide Corner Trims
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 79” - Rear Wall Narrow Trims
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 77 1/4” - Side Wall Narrow Trims
Facia Trim
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 44 1/2” - Facia Nailing Strips
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 45 7/8” - Side Facia (Angle cut both ends)
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 57 1/4” - Front & Rear Facia (square cut)
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 8” - Facia Detail Plate Pieces (front and rear)
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 8” - Horizontal Gable Trim Detail Plates
2 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 8” - Pentagon Facia Plates (sides)
Door
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 79” - Vertical Door Trims
1 - 1/2” x 1 1/4” x 32” - Horizontal Door Trim
1 - 31 1/2” x 42” - Bottom Dutch Door Section
1 - 31 1/2” x 30” - Top Dutch Door Section
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Interior Vertical Door Stops
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 36” - Interior Top Horizontal Door Stop
Ridge Caps
1 Bundle Cedar Shingle Roof Ridge Caps - 18 pcs
**Miscellaneous Pieces
1 pc - Spare Wall Siding
2 - Window Inserts
2 - Window Trim Pkg - (1-24 1/16” angle cut / 3-23” square cut)
2 pcs - Shim Shingles - use to shim door, etc
2 - Flower Box Kits
1 - Tube Silcone Caulking
Thank you for purchasing our 9x6 Cabana with Metal Roof.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 2
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.

9X6 CABANA (Metal Roof) HARDWARE PACKAGE
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
S3 - 2” Screws
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
SS2 - 3/4” Screws
SB2 - 2” Screws
SB1 - 3/4” Screws
Door Handle
Ridge Board
Connector x 2
Silver
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
Silver Barrel Bolt
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 3
1/8” & 3/8” Drill Bits
N1 - 1 1/2” Nails
Finishing
Black Headed
Black Headed
x 255
x 152
x 32
x 185
x 25
x 6
x 355
x 2
Double Rafter
Bracket x 4
Tee Hinge x4
Barrel Bolt
Single Rafter
Bracket x 6
BR1 - Square Drive Bit
1/4” & 5/16” Nut Drivers
x 2
x 24
1/4”x 2” long
Metal Roof Screw
x 11
5/16 x 7/8” long
Metal Ridge Cap Screw
Caulking Gun

Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 4
Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?

A. Floor Section
Plywood Floor
Large (2)
Floor Joist
Frames (3)
Floor Runners
Short (3)
Floor Runners
Long (3)
Plywood Floor
Small
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Concrete Pad (optional
foundation method)
Floor
Joist (4)
Outside Frame
to outside Joist
Inside Frame
to Inside Joist
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 5
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with
the Hardware Kit Bag.
Middle of joist to
middle of joist
10 3/4”
13 3/4”
9”
1. Attach Interior Floor Joists to Floor Joist Frames. Only
the Center Floor Joist Frame requires 2 Joists to be attached.
Measure and attach both Joists with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per
Joist end as illustrated to the right.
Parts (Steps 1 - 3)
Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) x 4
Floor Joist Frames
(35” x 75”) x 3
Hardware (Steps 1 - 3)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 28 total

17 1/2”
105”
75”
Center Frame
Short Runner
Long Runner
Short Runner
Flush with Floor Framing
Centered
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 6
2. Both Outside Floor Joist Frames require 1 Floor Joist attachment. Center Joist 17 1/2” from
Outside of Floor Joist Frame and attach with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per end.
3. Position completed Floor Joist Frames with center
frame in the middle. Attach the Floor Joist Frames together
with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws per section. When completed, your
floor joist section should be 105” wide x 75” deep.
4. Attach Long & Short Floor Runners to completed floor frame.
There are 2 floor runners per 105” side and 3 completed Runners in
total. Each completed Runner will have a long and short piece.
Use 10 - 2 1/2” Screws to secure long Runners and 8 - 2 1/2” Screws
to secure short Runners. Reverse long and short position of centre
Runner to provide more floor strength.
Parts
Floor Runners - Long
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 57”) x 3
Floor Runners - Short
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 48”) x 3
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 54 total

Concrete Slab
Foundation
Hint: Use a chalk line
to mark location of floor
joists to determine
screw placement. Important - Make
sure floor is level
before moving on to
wall section. Use a
level to confirm, and
shim floor joists as
required.
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 7
push plywood
together at seams.
Front
5. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip the floor over and place
on your foundation. Caution: you will need 2 people to assist you.
Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist floor. When in
place, level floor completely.
6. Position all Large & Small Plywood Floor
pieces on top of completed Floor Joists.
Plywood will sit slightly back from outside
edge of Floor Joist Framing. When in correct
position, attach with 1 1/4” Screws. Use
screws every 16”. The Plywood is cut slightly
smaller than floor framing. Keep plywood
seams tight.
Parts
Plywood Floor - Large
(48” x 74 7/8”) x 2
Plywood Floor - Small
(8 7/8” x 74 7/8”) x 1
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 40 total (approx)
7. When completed, make sure
the floor is still level and make
adjustments if required. When
completed, your floor should look
similar to this.
Note: The floor will be flipped over and floor
runners will sit on your foundation. It is
important to note that having a level foundation
is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary
between regions. Typical foundations can be
concrete pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
Foundations

B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Window Wall
Panel (2)
Solid Wall
Panel (7)
Vertical Door
Jamb (2)
Door Header
Side Gable
Wall Panel (2)
Front and Rear Top Wall Plate (4)
(Angle cut down length)
Side Top Wall
Plate (2)
(Angle cut on end)
Bottom Wall
Plates (7)
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 8
8. Lay out all the wall
panels and become famil-
iar with their location. On
Standard Kits, there are
2 Window Wall Panels
and 7 Solid Wall Panels.
Make sure panels are in
upright position so water
is directed away from and
not into shed. Compare
siding of solid panels with
window wall panels to
determine if in upright
position.

Important - Make sure all walls are aligned
in their upright position. If not, water may
leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Compare solid wall
siding to window wall siding and match
orientation.
1st Rear Wall Panel
1st Rear
Wall Panel
side of shed
Front
Side
2x3 wall frame
Wall Plate
Flush with
Floor Framing
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 9
1/2” overhang
Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior
to screwing. This will make it
much easier to attach
together.
Pilot Hole
first.
9. Starting with Solid Wall Panels, carefully lay panel
face down. Position and attach a Bottom Wall Plate to
bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2”
Screws. Position so plates are flush with framing.
Parts
Solid Wall Panels
(35” x 75”) x 7
Bottom Wall Plates
(1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 35”) x 7
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 21 total
11. The Front and Rear Wall Panels will sandwich the
Side Panels. Note: 2x3 wall frame will sit flush with
floor frame, siding will overhang the floor horizontally
by approximately 1/2”.
10. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Solid
Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. Depending on
your preference, you may use a solid or window
wall panel in this position. If using a solid wall,
make sure panel is facing up.

Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 10
rear wall
side wall
2 1/2” Screws
Pilot Hole
first.
Side Wall
Panel
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking not
included in kit.
Rear Wall
Side Wall
Pilot Hole
first.
Important - Do not fasten
walls to floor until Step 20.
Pilot Hole
first.
12. Position 1st side wall panel on plywood floor so
once again 2x3 bottom wall plate is sitting flush with
floor framing. Position panel so vertical 2x3 framing
sits flush with rear wall framing.When both wall panels
are positioned correctly, attach together at top, middle
and bottom of vertical studs with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
13. When correctly aligned, looking from
the top view, 2x3 wall framing of corner wall
panels will be positioned as illustrated above. 14. Position and attach 2nd rear wall panel
as shown above. Attach adjacent wall studs
together with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
15. Position and attach 3rd rear wall panel and attach as per Step 14. Note: wall framing of 3rd rear
wall should sit flush with floor framing.
Hardware (Steps 12 - 16)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 18 total

1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 11
Pilot Hole
first.
Flush to tip
of Bevel.
16. Complete attachments of remaining
side walls as per Steps 11 - 15.
17. Position and attach both Window Walls as
per Steps 11 - 15.
18. Attach both Vertical Door Jambs to door opening
wall studs with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per Jamb. Position so
jamb is flush with tip of bevel siding on front window walls.
Parts
Vertical Door Jambs
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 8 total
Parts
Window Walls
(35” x 75”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 6 total

1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 12
Notch to front
and on top.
122”
Advice: Prior to fastening walls and installing
rafters, take time to confirm your walls are level,
square and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom of walls
corner-to-corner. This should be approximately
122”. More importantly, if measurements are not
within 1/4”, your walls are not square. Adjusting
now will make it easier to install roof section.
122”
19. Attach Door Header to vertical door jambs with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per
side. Header is 3” wide at bottom and has a 1/2” thick x 2 1/2” wide strip of
wood stapled to the top creating a notch or dado effect. This notch needs to
be positioned on the top facing the front. The notch is necessary as the roof
panel may hang up on the header and must sit flush on the rafter tops when
attached. Screw from door header into door jambs with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws
(2 per side). Pre-drill to prevent splitting!
Parts
Door Header
(2” x 3 1/2” x 35”) x 1
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 4 total

Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 13
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking
not included in kit.
Angle
screws into perimeter
Floor Joists.
32”
Pilot Hole
first.
20. When all walls are attached together, check alignment with the floor. Bottom
of wall frames should sit flush with outside of floor framing, with siding overhanging
by approximately 1/2”. Confirm 32” wide door opening at bottom. When positioned
correctly, fasten bottom wall plates to floor using 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per wall panel.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 36 total
21. Position a Side Top Plate on top wall framing so they are flush. Attach by screwing down into
top of wall frame with 4 - 2” Screws.
Parts (Steps 21 - 22)
Side Wall Top Plates - Angle Cut Ends
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 75”) x 2
Front & Rear Wall Top Plates - Angle Cut Edge
(3/4” x 2 1/2” x 50”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 21 - 22)
S3 - 2” Screws
x 24 total

1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 14
Front Top Plate
Flashing overhangs
wall on outside.
Use a straight edge to check
that angle of Gable lines up
with Top Plate angle. Adjust
Gable for best fit.
24. Align and attach opposite Side Gable Wall
as per Step 23. Flashing will overhang Wall on
outside.
22. Next, attach the Front Top Plates. The Front and
Rear Top Plates are angle cut down the length. Once
again, position Top Plates on wall frame so they are flush.
Front and Rear Top Plates will fit between Side Top Plates.
Attach with 4 - 2” Screws per plate. Complete all other
Side &Rear Top Plate attachments.
23. Place Side Gable Wall so 1x3 framing sits flush with the inside
of the Top Plate. It should also be centered sideways on the Top Plate.
Adjust Gable accordingly. Temporarily attach to Walls and Top Plate
with 2 - 2” Screws. Gables may need slight adjustment in Step 43
when attachment will be completed with an additional 6 Screws.
Screw from the bottom of Gable framing down into Top Plate and
Wall. Hint: Use a straight edge to check the angle of the Gable fram-
ing and Top Plate. Both angles should line up (see diagram below).
Parts (Steps 23 - 24)
Side Gable Walls x 2
Hardware (Steps 23 - 24)
S3 - 2” Screws x 4 total

C. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Roof Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 15
Ridge Board
Ridge Board
Metal Ridge Board Connector
8 - 3/4” screws
Roof Rafters
(9 per side)
18 total
Ridge Boards (4)
44” and 61” long
Soffits (4)
Metal Ridge Board
Connectors (2)
Roof Gussets (3)
Rafter Brackets
Double (4)
Single (6)
25. Locate (1 each) Long &Short Ridge Boards
and attach together with a metal Ridge Board
Connector using 8 - 3/4” Screws. Total Length when
connected is 105”. Connect other set of Ridge Boards
the same. Position metal Ridge Board Connector
evenly on Ridge Boards.
Parts
Ridge Boards - Long
(3/4” x 4 1/2” x 61”) x 2
Ridge Boards - Short
(3/4” x 4 1/2” x 44”) x 2
Hardware
SS2 - 3/4” Screws
x 16 total
Y9 - Ridge Board
Connector
x 2 total
Foam
Enclosure
(strips)
Metal Roof
Cap (3)
Roof Battens 3/4” x 3 1/2”
39”(8 pcs)- Outside
35” (2 pcs) Middle
74” (4 pcs) Long
Metal Roof
Screws (30)
Metal Roof
Panels
(8)

1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 16
Ridge Board
Soffits
Doubled up Rafters
- screw together with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Rafter
Soffit
52 1/2”
35”
15 1/4”
15 1/4”
15 1/4”
35”
35”
105”
Connector
Plate to inside
Important: Pilot
Hole Ridge Board
to prevent splitting!
Important: Pilot
Hole Soffit to
prevent splitting!
Ridge Board
26. Locate 9 Rafters, 2 Soffits and a completed Ridge
Board. Lay out on level ground as shown to the right. Double
up Rafters as illustrated. Screw doubled up Rafters together
with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws per piece.
Parts (Steps 26 - 28)
Rafters
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45”) x 18
Soffits
(1/2” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2”) x 4
Hardware (Steps 26 - 28)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 12 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws x 36 total
S3 - 2” Screws x 36 total
27. Attach completed Ridge Board to ends of both
outside Rafters with 2 - 2” Screws per end. Measure
and position interior Rafters as illustrated below. When
positioned correctly, attach Ridge Board to remaining
Rafters with 2 - 2” Screws / Rafter end.
28. Attach end of a Soffit flush to ends of outside rafters with
2 - 1 1/4” Screws per Rafter end. Drill pilot holes in Soffit to pre-
vent splitting. Complete both outside Rafter / Soffit connections
first. Measure and position interior Rafters as illustrated above.
When positioned correctly, attach Soffit to remaining Rafters
with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws / Rafter.
Flip completed rafter section over. Complete 2nd Rafter section
now as per Steps 26 - 27 with the following exception - When
attaching Ridge Board to Rafter ends, make sure Metal
Ridge Board Connector is positioned so offset to first
Rafter Section. See Step 42 for illustration.

Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 17
1/8” recess
29. Flip completed rafter section over so that
soffit is facing the ground. Locate first row of
3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide Roof Battens
(1 pc. - 39” long & 1 pc.- 74” long). Start with
outside 39” and place 1/8” back from end of
rafter.
39”
74”
center on rafter
30. Attach 39” long batten with 2
- 1 1/4” screws to center of double
rafter and secure both ends. Pre-
drill with 1/8” drill bit first to prevent
ends from splitting.
31. Attach 74” long batten with 5 -1 1/4”
screws to complete the first row of battens.
74” long batten

Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 18
32. Locate the 2nd row of battens (2 Outside Roof Battens 3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide x 39” long
and 1 Middle Roof Batten 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 35” long). Place batten 15.5” up from first row of battens.
Center Batten will sit evenly on center rafter (3/4”from edge). Attach with 1 1/4” screws. Pre-drill first
to prevent end from splitting.
33. Attach middle and last outside batten with 1 1/4” screws to complete 2nd row of battens.
Make sure to position batten correctly before securing.
34. Position and attach 3rd row of battens as per
the first row. Third row battens are the same size as
the first row but alternate long with short. Place
batten 15.5” up from second row of battens.
39” Long Batten
15.5”
center batten on center rafter
15.5”
15.5”
Angle screw
35” Long Batten

Soffit
35. Third batten row should be positioned approximately 3.5” from ridge board when properly
spaced.
36. Complete attachment of battens to 2nd Rafter Section as per Steps 29-35.
With both rafter/batten sections complete, carefully lift section up with a helper.
37. Lift and slide rafter/batten section up
on over the side walls and onto the gable
framing.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 19
3.5”

Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 20
40. When Rafter Section is correctly
positioned, outside rafters will sit
equally on gable framing and Soffit will
sit approximately 1/8” away from wall
panels.
Rafter should rest
on gable framing.
39. Slide Rafter Section up until bottom of Ridge Board slips into gable notch.
Gable Notch
Ridge Board
Rafter
gable framing
Soffit should sit
approx. 1/8” away
from wall panel.
38. Push section up
evenly making sure
outside rafters rests on
gable framing.