Opel Zafira B MPV 2006 Instruction manual

Vauxhall/Opel Zafira
Owners Workshop Manu al
Models covered
Zat ira·B MPV modOIS
Petrol: 1.6 Utre (1598cc), 1.8 litre (1796cc) & 2.2 ll tre (2198cc)
Turbo-diesel: 1.9
lltre (1910cc)
Does NOTcove, 2.0 litre turbo petrolengine, 1.71/tre d/ese/ engine or dual fuelmodels

Contents
LIVING WITH YOURVAUXHALL/OPEL ZAFIRA
Introdu ct ion to the Va ux hall/Opel Zafira
Safetyfirst!
Roadside repairs
Ifyour car won't start
J um p starting
Wheel changing
Usingthe puncturerepair kit
Identifyi
ng leaks
Towing
Weekly checks
Introduction
Underbonnet
check points
Engineoil level
Coola
nt level
Ty recon dition a nd pressure
Brake and cl ut chfluid level
Screen washer flu
id level
Wiper blades
Battery
El ec t ri cal sys tems
Lubricants and fluids
Tyre pressures
MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicing
Petrol models
Servicing specifications
Ma intenance schedule
Ma intenance procedu res
Diesel mode ls
Se rvici ng specifications
Ma intenance schedule
Ma intenanceprocedures
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18•5

REPAIRS AND OVERHAU
Engine and associated systems
1.6 and 1.8 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures
2.2 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures
1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine in-car repair procedures
1.9 litre DOHC diesel engine in-car repair procedures
Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
Fuel and exhaust systems -petrol engines
Fuel and exhaust systems -diesel engines
Emissions control systems
Starting and charging systems
Ignition system -petrol engines
Transmission
Clutch transmission
Automatic transmission
Easytronic transmission
Driveshafts
Brakes and suspension
Braking system
Suspension and steering
Body equipment
Bodywork and fittings
Body electrical system
Wiring diagrams
REFERENCE
Dimensions and weights
Fuel economy
Buying spare parts
Vehicle identification
General repair procedures
Jacking and vehicle support
Disconnecting the battery
Tools and working facilities
MOTtest checks
Fault finding
Glossary
of technical terms
Index
ontents
Page 2A•1
Page 28•1
Page 2C•1
Page 2D•1
Page 2E•1
Page 3•1
Page 4A•1
Page
48•1
Page 4C•1
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Page 7A•1
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Page REF•1
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o·4 Introduction
The Vauxhall/Opel Zafira-8 model was
introduced in the UK in the Spring
of 2005
as a replacement
for the previous Zafira,
the 'A' model. The Zafira is available with
only one body style, that of a 5-door Multi
Personnel Vehicle
(MPV), and with 1.6, i .8
and 2.2 litre petrol engines, and 1.9 litre
diesel engines. 2.0 litre turbo petrol engines
are also available, but are not covered in
this manual.
All the petrol engines are DOHC
16-valve units, whereas the diesel engines
are available in either SOHC 8-valve,
or
DOHC 16-valve form.
According
to engine type, the manual
gearbox
is ofthe 5- or6-speed all synchromesh
type, with a 4-
or 6-speed electronically-
controlled automatic transmission optionally
available
on certain models.
All models have front-wheel-drive with
fully-independent front suspension, and semi-
independent rear suspension with a torsion
beam
and trailing arms.
A wide range
of standard and optional
equipment is available within the Zafira range
to suit most tastes, including electro/hydraulic
power steering, air conditioning, remote
central locking, electric windows, electric
sunroof, anti-lock braking system, electronic
alarm system and supplemental restraint
systems.
For the home mechanic, the Zafira is a
relatively straightforward vehicle to maintain,
and most of the items requiring frequent
attention
are easily accessible.
Your Vauxhall/Opel Zafira
manual
The aim ofthis manual is to help you getthe
best value from your vehicle. It can do so in
several ways. It can help you decidewhat work
must be done
(even should you choose to get
it done by a garage), provide information on
routine maintenance and servicing, and give
a logical course of action and diagnosis when
random faults occur. However, it is hoped
that you will use the manual by tackling the
work yourself.
On simpler jobs, it may even
be quicker than booking the car into a garage
and going there twice, to leave
and collect it.
Perhaps most important, a lot of money can
be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must
charge
to cover its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptionsto
show the function
of the various components,
so that their layout can be understood. Then
the tasks
are described and photographed in a
clear step-by-step sequence.
References
to the 'left' or 'right' are in the
sense of a person
in the driver's seat, facing
forward.
Project vehicles
The main vehicle used in the preparation
of this manual, and which appears
in many of
the photographic sequences, was a Vauxhall
Zafira 'Life' with a 1.6 litre petrol engine.
Additional work was carried out on a Zafira
'Design' with a 1.9 litre SOHC diesel engine.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are also due to Draper Tools
Limited, who provided some of the workshop
tools, and
to all those people at Sparkford
who helped
in the production of this manual.
We
take great pride in the accuracy
of information given in this manual, but
vehicle manufacturers make alterations
and design changes during the production
run of a particular vehicle of which they do
not inform us. No liability can be accepted
by the authors or publishers for loss,
damage or injury caused by any errors in,
or omissions from, the information given.

Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some
of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim
of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don't remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine
is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also
be dangerously
hot ifthe engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part
of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near -3
a raised vehicle, n ~
always ~..,£......"(], }t.,_ @©
supplement the /1@ - ~~ -~
jack with axle 'ill!J.~f~f§[~~~~
st~nds, or use /I'~
dnve-on -\)
ramps.
~((,~ILJ...-~
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should be
done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
•
Do not smoke or allow naked lights
{including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware
of
creating sparks
(electrically
or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavierthan air, so
don't
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause
of fire is an electrical
overload
or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing
or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock 1..
1 1 ?
,,
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially
to f-'" ,.r
people with heart f
problems or a ,..r
pacemaker. Don't
./
work on or near the ) ~
ignition system with J 1 1 < ) "\,._'
the engine running or J \ , ,
the ignition switched on.
• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal
if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour
is also
poisonous,
as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid
or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed
or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves
or use a
barrier cream
if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and
do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas
if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and
in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest
to assume that they contain asbestos.
Safety First! o·s
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types
of synthetic rubber, found
in some 0-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed
to temperatures above 400°C. The
rubber changes into a charred
or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the
acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it maybe necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire,
or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given
off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark
or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers
or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury ifthey go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/orfacia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Neverexpose the hands,
face
or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.

o•6 Roadside repairs
The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more
detailed fault finding information at the back
of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.
car won't start and
.............. _ motor doesn't
[::] If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector
is in P or N.
O Open the bonnet and make sure that the batteryterminals are
clean and tight.
O Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the
headlights
go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is
probably flat. Get out
of trouble by jump starting (see next page)
using a friend's
car.
If your car won't start even
though the starter motor
turns as normal
O Is there fuel in the tank?
O Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet?
Switch off the ignition, then wipe
off any obvious dampness with
a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40
or
equivalent} on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like
those shown in the photos.
3 Check all multiplugs and wiring
connectors for security.
4Check that all fuses are still in good
condition and none have blown.
Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with
a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due
to damp.

When jump-starting a car using a booster
battery, observe the following precautions:
II' Before connecting the booster battery,
make sure that the ignition
is switched
off.
Caution: Remove the keyin case the
central locking engages when the
jump leads are connected.
II' Ensure that all electrical equipment
(lights, heater, wipers, etc)
is switched off.
II' Take note of any special precautions
printed on the battery case.
II' Make sure that the booster battery is the
same voltage as the discharged one in
the vehicle.
v If the battery is being jump-started from
the battery in another vehicle, the
two
vehicles MUST NOTTOUCH each other.
e/ Make sure that the transmission is in
neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic
transmission).
Connect the other end
of the red lead to
the positive(+) terminal ofthe booster
battery. r
Roadside repairs o•?
Connect the other end of the black jump
lead
to a bolt or bracket on the engine
block, well away from the battery, on the
vehicle
to be started.
Make sure
that the jump leads will not
come intocontactwith thefan, drjve-belts
or other moving parts of the engine.
Start the engine using the booster
battery and run it
at idle speed. Switch
on the lights, rear window demister and
heater blower motor, then disconnect
the jump leads in the reverse order
of
connection. Turn off the lights etc.

o·s Roadside repairs
Wheel changing
Note: MostZafira models are equipped with a puncture repair kit and do not have a spare wheel and jack. If your car has a puncture repair kit,
refer to the information containedon the nextpage.
A\. Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busyroads, try to stopin a Jay-by or
.£ll.. a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel- it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.
Preparation
[] When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
D Park on firm level ground, if possible, and
well out
of the way of other traffic.
D Use hazard warning lights if necessary.
Changing the wheel
1Lift the
floor covering and open the
storage compartment by lifting and
turning the retaining ring. Release the
strap and lift out the tool bag.
4
On models with steel wheels, use the
special tool to pull the wheel trim from the
wheel.
On models with alloy wheels, use
the screwdriver provided inserted at the wheel
bolt holes to prise off the trim. Slacken each
wheel bolt by half a turn.
D Ifyou have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers
of your presence.
D Apply the handbrake and engage first or
reverse gear gear (or Park on models with
automatic transmission).
2The spare wheel is located under the rear of the car. Unscrew the spare wheel cradle
retaining bolt in the luggage compartment
floor using the wheel brace.
5Locate the jack head below the jacking
point nearest the wheel to be changed;
the jacking point is indicated by
an arrow
in the sill. Turn the handle until the base of the
jacktouches the ground ensuring that the jack
is vertical. Raise the vehicle until the wheel is
clear of the ground. Ifthe tyre is flat make sure
that the vehicle is raised sufficiently to allow
the spare wheel to be fitted.
7Lower the vehicle
to the ground, then
finallytighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal
sequence. Refit the wheel trim. Note that
the wheel bolts should be tightened to the
specified torque at the earliest opportunity.
[] Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed - a couple of large
stones will do for this.
D Ifthe ground is soft, use a flat piece of
wood to spread the load underthe jack.
3From under the car, unhook the catch and
lower the spare wheel cradle. Detach the
safety cable and lower the cradle to the
ground. Lift out the spare wheel.
6Remove the bolts and lift the wheel from
the vehicle. Place it beneath the sill
as a
precaution against the jack failing. Fit the
spare wheel and tighten the bolts moderately
with the wheel brace.
Finally ...
D Remove the wheel chocks.
f.J Place the damaged wheel or tyre in the
spare wheel cradle, then raise and secure
the cradle.
~ Stow the jackand tools in the storage
compartment and refit the cover.
D Check the tyre pressure on the wheel
just fitted. If it is low, drive slowly to the
nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the
right pressure.
D Have the punctured wheel repaired at the
earliest opportunity.

Roadside repairs o•9
Using the puncture repair kit
/:... Warning: Do not attempt to repaira punctured tyre in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to
L..!l., stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while using the kit - it is easy to becomedistracted by the job in hand.
+. Warning: Repair of a tyre using the puncture repair kit must be regardedas a 'get you home' emergencyrepaironly. A new tyre
~ must be fitted as soon aspossible.
Preparation
O When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
D Park on firm level ground, if possible, and
well out of the way of other traffic.
Repairing the puncture
1Open the storage compartment cover
located at the right-hand side
of the
luggage
compartment. Take out the
sealant bottle and bracket together with the
air hose.
4Take the long air hose into the car and
screw it onto the connection on the
electric pump.
Important notes
D Use hazard warning lights if necessary.
D If you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers
of your presence.
2Detach
the air hose from the bracket
and screw it onto the sealant bottle
connection. Slide the sealant bottle onto
the bracket making sure it is fully located and
will not fall
over.
5Open the cover
on the front of the electric
pump, pull out the wiring plug and insert
it into the adjacent accessory socket.
To avoid discharging the battery when the
electric pump is running, it is advisable
to
start the engine.
D If the correct tyre pressure is not obtained within 10 minutes, it is likely that the tyre is too
badly damaged to be repaired with the kit.
D If it is necessary to release the pressure in the tyre, press the '-' button on the electric
pump.
l] The maximum speed sticker attached to the sealant bottle should be placed in the driver's
field
of view. Do not exceed the permitted maximum speed until an undamaged wheel and
tyre have been fitted.
O On completion, disconnect the sealant bottle, tyre repair kit and long air hose, and connect
the end of the short air hose to the free connection on the sealant bottle. This will prevent
any remaining sealant from leaking out.
D Continue driving immediately so that the sealant is evenly distributed around the inside of
the tyre.
[] After driving approximately 6 miles (but no more than 1Ominutes) stop and check the tyre
pressure by connecting the long air hose directly to the tyre valve. As long as the pressure
indicated on the gauge is more than 1 .3 bar (19 psi) it may be adjusted using the electric
pump. If the pressure has fallen below 1.3 bar (19 psi) the repair has not been successful
and the car should not be driven. It will therefore be necessary to seek roadside assistance.
O Apply the handbrake and engage first or
reverse gear gear (or Park
on models with
automatic transmission).
3Unscr~wJhe dust cap from the punctured
tyre, and screw the sealant bottle short air
hose onto the tyre valve.
6Press the '+' button on the electric pump
to start the pump. The pump will initially
pump the sealant into the tyre which will
take approximately 30 seconds, and then start
to inflate the tyre. During the initial 30 second
period the pressure gauge
on the pump will
indicate up to 6 bar (87 psi) and then drop.
The correct tyre pressure
(see end of Weekly
checks) should be obtained within 10 minutes.
The electric pump can then be switched off by
pressing the'+' button again.
Finally ..•
D Stowthe puncture repair kit in the storage
compartment and refit the storage
compartment cover.
O Do not exceed 50 mph until a new tyre
has been fitted.
O Obtain a new sealant bottle as soon as
possible, or another puncture will leave
you stranded.

0·10 Weekly checks
Identifying leaks
Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or
obvious wetness under the bonnet or
underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs
investigating. It
can sometimes be difficult to
decide where the leak is coming from,
especially if the engine bay is very dirty
already. Leaking oil orfluid
can also be blown
rearwards by the passage ofair under the car,
giving a false impression of where the
problem lies.
Sump oil
Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...
Antifreeze
Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline
deposit like this.
Towing
When all else fails, you may find yourself
having to get a
tow home - or of course
you may be helping somebody else.
Long-distance recovery should only be
done by a garage
or breakdown service. For
shorter distances,
DIY towing using another
car
is easy enough, but observe the following
points:
DUse a proper tow-rope they are not
expensive. The vehicle being towed must
display
an ON TOW sign in its rear window.
DAlways turn the ignition key to the 'on'
position when the vehicle is being towed,
so that the steering lock is released, and the
direction indicator and brake lights work.
Warning:
Most automotive oils
and fluids arepoisonous. Wash
them
off skin, and change out
of contaminatedclothing,
without delay.
Oil from filter
...or from the base of the oil filter.
Brake fluid
A leak occurring at a wheel is almost
certainly brake fluid.
D Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes
provided.
DTo fit the towing eye, remove the circular
cover from the front or rear bumper, as
required, then screw
in the towing eye anti-
clockwise
as far as it will go using the handle
of the wheel brace to turn the eye. Note that
the towing eye has a left-hand thread.
DA towing eye is provided with the tool kit in
the luggage compartment.
D Before being towed,
release the handbrake
and select neutral
on the transmission. On
models with automatic transmission, special
precautions apply. If
in doubt, do not tow, or
transmission damage may result.
'the smell of a. fluid leahtng
from the car may provld~.a
clue to .what's Ieakin{l, So1m1
t '----" fluids are distinct.lvefy coloured.
It may help to clean ·tne· car carefully
and to park it oversome ~ean paper
overnight as an aid to locating the
source of thefttatt •.
Remember that some leaks may only
isnmnjng.
Gearbox oil
Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the
inboard ends ofthe driveshafts.
Power steering fluid
Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe
connectors
on the steering rack.
D Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure
will be required to operate the brakes, since
the vacuum servo unit is only operational with
the engine running.
D Greater-than-usual steering effort will also
be required.
[]The driver of the car being towed must
keep the tow-rope taut at all times
to avoid
snatching.
D Make sure that both drivers know the route
before setting off.
LJ Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the
distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly
and allow plenty of time for slowing down at
junctions.