Paddle King Lo Pro Cruiser User manual

Paddle King, Inc.
Owner’s Manual for:
Lo Pro Cruiser
Lo Pro Cruiser II
Lo Pro Angler
Lo Pro Angler II

Introduction
Thank you for purchasing a quality Paddle King product. Whether you are a beginner or a seasoned boater, please
take a few minutes to read this manual and become familiar with the boat’s features as well as some safe-boating
tips.
If a friend or family member operates your boat, please make sure he or she is fully aware of how to operate your
boat and understands the rules of navigation and all safety precautions and procedures. If you should ever sell
your boat, please make sure this manual goes with the boat.
This manual is broken down into the following sections:
I. General Information
II. Systems & Components
III. Caring for Your Boat
IV. Winterization & Storage
V. Getting Underway
VI. General Rules of Seamanship
VII. Emergency Operation
VIII. Safety
IX. Trailering
X. Other Helpful Information
XI. Warranty Statement
I. General Information
General Terminology:
Aft or stern: The rear or back of the boat.
Hull: The body of the boat.
Bow: The forward or front of part of the boat.
Launch: To put a vessel in the water.
PFD: Personal floatation device or life jacket.
Port: The left side of the boat if you are facing the bow.
Rules of the Road: The nautical traffic rules for preventing collisions on the water.
Starboard: The right side of the boat if you are facing the bow.
Underway: Describes a vessel in motion (not moored or anchored).
Capacity Plate: Your boat has a manufacturer’s capacity plate stating the maximum load in pounds (persons and
gear) the boat can safely carry under normal conditions, the maximum persons capacity, and the maximum
horsepower of the engine. Never exceed your boat’s engine capacity rating—an overpowered boat can become
unstable, resulting in loss of control, swamping, flooding or capsizing, particularly in rough waters.
The number of persons listed on the capacity label is calculated solely by a formula based on the displacement of
the tubes and not by safe boating practices. Boating conditions may require fewer occupants on board than
indicated on the capacity label. Persons capacity is based on an average of 141 lbs. each and ultimately the
number of seats on the boat.
The operator of the boat is responsible for using common sense and good judgment when loading the boat. If the
waters are turbulent, please use extra care. Remember that overloading and improper distribution of weight are
major causes of accidents. Keep the weight below maximum limits for safety in turbulent waters. Overloading is a
violation of U.S. Coast Guard regulations.
Hull Identification Number/Serial Number: Your boat has a hull identification number, which is located in the stern
(rear) of the boat by the transom. Federal law prohibits removal or tampering of this number in any way. Keep a

record of this number in a safe place so that if your boat is stolen, you can report this number to the local authorities
and your insurance agent.
Registration: All boats that have an engine or motor and are operated on navigable waters of the United States
must be registered in the owner’s state. Contact your local Secretary of State office for requirements.
Service/Maintenance Record: This is a good idea to keep a record on any work or maintenance that is done on the
boat or engine. Should you decide to sell your boat, it is also a good way to demonstrate that the boat and engine
have been well taken care of.
Warranty: Your new Paddle King boat is backed by a limited warranty. The complete warranty is printed in the
back of this booklet. It is the dealer’s responsibility to go over the terms of the warranty. It is the owner’s
responsibility to fill in the warranty registration card (which should have been provided to you with your boat) and
send it in within 30 days of purchase (send it in even it if it past 30 days!). By sending in the card, you are indicating
that you are aware of the terms and conditions of the warranty. Warranties are not transferable to a second owner.
Equipment Manufacturer Manuals: Paddle King purchases various equipment and components from other
manufacturers for your boat which carry their own manufacturer’s warranty, such as the motor. Any warranty
registration cards are in your owner’s packet. Please fill out these cards and mail them to the appropriate
manufacturer to validate the warranty.
Insurance: The owner of the boat is legally responsible for any damages or injuries caused by the boat. This is true
in most states even if someone else is operating the boat when an accident happens. You should carry adequate
personal liability and property damage insurance on your boat, just as you do on your automobile. This will also
protect your investment against damage or theft.
Disposal of Garbage: Plastic refuse can kill fish and marine wildlife and can damage propellers and water intakes.
The U.S. Coast Guard regulations completely prohibit the dumping of plastic refuse or other garbage mixed with
plastic anywhere.
Discharge of Oil: The Federal Water Pollution Control Act prohibits the discharge of oil or oily waste into or upon
the navigable waters of the United States or the waters of the contiguous zone if such discharge causes a film or
sheen upon or a discoloration of the surface of the water or causes a sludge or emulsion beneath the surface of the
water. Violators are subject to penalties of $5000 or more.
II. Systems and Components
Battery: If your boat has a gas-powered motor, the battery was supplied by your dealer or yourself. (If you have a
rechargeable battery and a trolling motor, please refer to the owner’s manual that came with the motor and battery.)
Inspect the battery for cleanliness and tight connections. Be sure that the battery compartment is well-ventilated. If
you need to replace a battery, install the same type as originally supplied with your boat. Warning: Batteries
contain sulfuric acid and can cause severe personal injury if mishandled. Avoid contact with eyes, skin or
clothing. In case of contact, flush with water at least 15 minutes. If swallowed, drink large quantities of water or
milk. Follow with Milk of Magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable oil. Get medical help immediately!
If the starting battery is discharged, you can jump start the boat’s engine. The battery cables do not need to be
removed. Be sure to connect like terminals (for example, positive to positive). The last cable to be connected
should be the negative cable of the charged battery. When you install the battery, battery connections must be
made properly. Attach the positive cable to the positive (+) terminal. Then, attach the negative battery cable to the
negative (-) terminal on the battery.
Charging the Battery: Warning: During charging, batteries produce gases which can explode. Explosion can
shatter the battery. Battery acid can cause severe personal injury such as blindness. Keep flame, spark, and
smoking materials away from battery while charging. Charge battery in a well-ventilated area. Batteries produce
hydrogen and oxygen gases when they are being charged. These explosive gases escape through the vent/fill
caps and may form an explosive atmosphere around the battery if ventilation is poor. This gas may remain around

the battery for several hours after charging. Sparks or flame can ignite the gas and cause an explosion. To avoid
explosions, do not use jumper cables and a booster battery to start the engine. Remove the battery and recharge it
ashore.
Electrical Switches: There are two switches on your Lo Pro: one is for running the aerator on the livewell and one
is for your navigation lights.
Throttle: The type of throttle that is installed on the Lo Pro depends on the type of motor that was installed on your
boat. Please refer to your owner’s manual that came with your motor.
Steering: It is very important to get used to the way your boat steers since steering varies from boat to boat,
depending on the type of engine, water and wind conditions, and the load. On Lo Pro II’s: To check that the drive
unit is turning correctly, freely and smoothly, turn the wheel from left to right (before turning on the ignition). The
cables should be clear of fuel lines and other wiring. All steering systems require periodic maintenance. Check the
cables regularly and tighten them as needed.
Livewell: An aerated livewell comes standard on all Lo Pro models. The livewell provides an environment where
your catch can be kept alive and healthy.
You should monitor water and air temperatures to determine when and how often you should aerate the livewell.
You can turn the livewell pump on and off manually with the switch.
The pump draws fresh water in through a fitting below the waterline and pumps it into the livewell. Water sprays
into the livewell through the aerator head. As the incoming water hits the surface of the water in the livewell, the
water’s oxygen content increases which will help keep fish alive. As water continues to spray into the well, excess
water flows out through the standpipe and drains overboard.
Do not operate the livewell pump dry. The pump is water-cooled and becomes overheated if no water is flowing
through the pump. If water does not come out of the discharge sprayer nozzle, stop the pump and correct the
problem. If the problem persists, check with your dealer.
If the overflow or drain becomes plugged, try back-flushing it with a garden hose set at low velocity. Often the
obstruction will flow back into the livewell where it can be easily removed. Be careful that you do not use too much
pressure. You can blow the hoses off the fittings.
Do not use the livewells to hold bait. Bait can be lost through the drains or can plug them up.
III. Caring for Your Boat
Taking good care of your boat will assure that your boat will look good year after year.
We recommend that you don’t moor your boat under trees, as debris tends to fall from trees. We also recommend
that you cover your boat when not in use with a mooring cover with center pole(s) so that any water will run off.
Aluminum surfaces: You can treat the aluminum surfaces with a clear protective coating to reduce natural
oxidation. Rinse occasionally with clear water or mild detergent to clean. Do not use harsh chemicals or anything
abrasive. To remove stains or slight corrosion, us a good metal polish. You can buff with a rubbing compound only
if necessary. Remove algae and scum or other marine growth when it is still wet. Use a mild detergent.
Paint: The type of paint you will want to use depends on whether you run your boat in fresh or salt water. Ask your
dealer to recommend a paint.
Corrosion: Corrosion occurs when two different types of metals come in contact with each other and are wetted by
contaminated water. Salt water leads to more corrosion problems than fresh water, in general. To minimize this,
the use of gaskets when mounting non-aluminum fixtures or hardware to aluminum is recommended. Never use an
aluminum boat as the ground for an electrical circuit. Electrical equipment should be completely insulated from the
vessel to eliminate electrolysis and corrosion.

Note: There is danger of an electric current in the water near boats linked to shore power.
Important: Do not attach copper, steel, brass, or bronze directly to the aluminum on your pontoon. This may cause
an electrolytic reaction. Use only aluminum or stainless steel or separate dissimilar metals with a gasket.
Tubes: If an aluminum tube gets punctured, it will need to be fixed and welded by a professional welder. Contact
your dealer for referrals.
Salt Water Use: Our boats were intended for fresh water use. If plan on using your boat in salt water every day, we
recommend that you contact your dealer for a recommendation on an anti-fouling salt water paint to use on your
tubes. You may want to remove it from the water every month and rinse it down completely with fresh water. Clean
the hardware and spray with a corrosive inhibitor every month. Since salt water also affects the motor, contact your
dealer for additional information.
Deck Hardware and Fittings: Clean all cleats, rails, and similar equipment periodically with good chrome cleaner
and polish paste wax to prevent any corrosion. Replace any broken or damaged hardware by bolting it through the
deck and use a reinforcing block underneath if there was one originally.
Seat Coverings and Vinyl: Keep vinyl clean and dry by wiping down after every use and keeping your boats or
seats covered. If seat cushions are wet for a long periods of time, you may want to remove them and dry them out
completely, since water can eventually seep into seams. When necessary, clean the vinyl cushions with a mild
soap and water. Suntan lotion, insect repellants and any other type of chemical can cause stains. Clean vinyl off
as soon as possible if they come in contact with the vinyl.
Canvas and Boat Cover: Never store canvas when it is still damp. Periodically clean your canvas or boat cover to
remove dirt and dust by wetting the article down completely and scrubbing with a mild soap and soft-bristle brush.
Never use bleach or harsh detergents. Brush the underside of the top. Spray with Lysol or other disinfectant to
prevent mildew. Lubricate zippers with paraffin and snaps with petroleum jelly.
Floor Coverings: Keep carpet clean by sweeping with a broom or vacuum. Clean when necessary with a diluted
household cleaner and warm water and a scrub brush. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry completely before
covering or storing.
Tube Maintenance: Use a commercial hull cleaner and a brush to remove any algae or scum on the tubes. It is
easier to clean when wet. Your dealer may be able to recommend a type of cleaner that works best for your tubes.
IV. Winterization and Storage
By following some simple procedures, you can extend the life of your boat and its equipment. This chapter includes
some general information about storing your boat after the boating season is over.
Indoor storage is ideal, especially in areas where ice and snow accumulate. If storing your boat indoors, make sure
the facility has adequate ventilation. If storing your boat outdoors, cover it with a canvas cover and provide
ventilation to keep the boat from building up moisture. A snap-on mooring cover with center poles can be
purchased from Paddle King or from your Paddle King dealer. This cover is idea for storage.
Before preparing your boat for winter storage, thoroughly check the condition of the boat and its equipment. It is
normally advisable to make sure all repairs are done before storage. It is a good time to perform all annual
maintenance at this time. Please note that damage due to improper storage will void the warranty.
Preparation for storage: Lifting your boat: The best way to lift your boat out of the water is to load it on your trailer
(see “Trailering” section). If a trailer is not available, arrange to have a marina lift your boat out of the water.
Workers at the marina know the proper way to lift your boat and have the proper equipment available.
Please note: Any “U” bolts on tubes are to be used only for mooring. Attaching lifting lines at these points will
damage the tubes.

Clean your boat: Refer to the above section on cleaning. Allow entire boat to dry thoroughly before covering or
storing.
Batteries: Remove the batteries and store them in a location away from freezing temperatures. Batteries should be
stored in a cool, dry place on a wooden pallet. Do not place batteries directly on concrete, brick, or dirt floors
because this will drain the charge into the ground. Charge the batteries once a month or apply a continuous trickle
charge while they are being stored. Clean the outside of the battery case, terminals, and battery clamps with a
baking soda and water solution. Do no allow solution to enter battery cells. Clean battery posts and clamps with a
piece of fine grit emery cloth. Use a light sanding motion when cleaning. Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly to
cover the ends of the battery cables.
Warning: Battery electrolyte can cause severe eye damage and burn your skin. Wear goggles, rubber gloves and
a protective apron when working with batteries. If the electrolyte spills, wash area with a solution of baking soda
and water.
Livewell: Remove the sandpipe tube and allow all water to drain from the livewells. Run the livewell pump just long
enough to ensure that all water is removed. Remove the livewell inlet hose and drain.
Steering cables: Clean and lubricate steering cables.
Supporting Your Boat During Storage: Your boat’s trailer is ideal support whenever it is not in the water because it
supports the boat under the main frames. Loosen or remove all tie-downs. Place blocks under the axles and jack
up the trailer to relieve weight on trailer tires and springs.
If your boat is not stored on the trailer, see your dealer for proper storage procedures.
Getting Your Boat Ready to Re-launch:
•Perform pre-season engine maintenance. Follow the recommended procedure in the engine operator’s
manual or consult your dealer.
•Remove cover and check pontoon for nesting animals. Thoroughly clean hull.
•Inspect steering control and fuel systems. Tighten or replace loose or missing hardware.
•Check steering system and lubricate if necessary.
•Check battery and clean terminal posts if necessary. Inspect wiring. Charge and install battery.
•Inspect fuel system and components for any leaks or damage.
•Check that water intake for livewell pump is clear.
•Make sure you have all necessary safety equipment (life jackets, fire extinguishers, flares, first aid kits, etc.)
and that everything is in good working order.
•Tighten tie-downs and trailer winch line.
•Check tire pressure and lug nuts on trailer.
•Remove blocks from under trailer frame.
•Make sure boat is properly registered with authorities.
•Put pontoon in water and start engine. Keep speeds low for the first 15 minutes to allow engine to warm up.
•Test navigation lights.
V. Getting Underway
This section includes a safety checklist, safety equipment requirements, and basic rules and regulations for boat
operation. You are responsible for the safety of all passengers, the boat, and any damage the boat or its wake may
cause. Always keep passengers from interfering with your view so that you do not run into other boats, swimmers,
water skiers, or other objects.
•Check the weather report, wind and water conditions. Is it favorable?
•Make sure you or the driver is not impaired from drugs or alcohol.

•Make sure the required safety equipment is on board. Make sure the fire extinguisher is fully charged. Make
sure there is one life jacket for every person aboard.
•Check that there is an adequate supply of fuel. Fuel tank should be filled to slightly less than capacity.
Allow space for expansion.
•Check emergency stop switch.
•Check that the steering system is operating correctly.
•Check all hoses and connections for fuel leakage.
•Check the motor for leaks and signs of damage. Check fluid levels.
•Check the propeller for damage.
•Check the cooling water intake pick-up for blockage.
•Make sure the navigation lights are working properly.
•Make sure the boat is not overloaded and make sure weight is distributed evenly.
•Make sure there are no passengers near the propeller.
•Do you have all necessary documents on board?
•Have you told a responsible party ashore where you are going and when to expect your return?
Fueling:
•Have passengers leave the boat when filling the fuel tank.
•Make sure the boat is moored to dock and stop motor before beginning to fill fuel tank.
•Make sure all cigarettes are extinguished.
•Turn off all electrical equipment (lights, etc.) and don’t use anything that can produce a spark or flame.
•Make sure there is adequate lighting to avoid spilling fuel or overfilling. Leave some space at the top of the
fuel tank for expansion.
•If any fuel spills, clean area with a rag, then properly dispose of rag.
•Inspect all lines and hoses for possible cracks or leaking. Replace any hoses that are cracked or show
signs of deterioration before you start the motor.
Warning! Fuel vapors are explosive! Fuel leaking from any part of the fuel system can lead to fire and explosion
that can cause serious bodily injury or death.
Loading Passengers and Gear:
•Board passengers one at a time. They should step and not jump onto the boat.
•All passengers should be seated in a seat and not allowed to sit on the deck or dangle their feet in the water
from the bow. They should be behind the gate and the gate should be closed. Falls from moving boats are
a major cause of marine accidents.
•Make sure passengers sit so that there is an equal distribution of weight. Overloading and improper
distribution of weight are significant causes of accidents. Capacity plates, located near the helm, show
maximum load capacity under normal conditions. Keep weight below maximum limits for safety in turbulent
waters. Overloading is a violation of U.S. Coast Guard regulations. Boats under 20 feet (6.1 m) are subject
to U.S. Coast Guard safe loading and labeling requirements.
•Secure all gear firmly and so that it will not interfere with boat operation.
Starting the engine: Refer to the engine owner’s manual for detailed pre-start and starting instructions specific to
your boat’s motor. Below are some general guidelines.
•Make sure the boat is secured to the dock before starting the motor.
•Lower outboard to the run position. Make sure all cooling water intake holes are submerged.
•Check fuel supply to ensure you have enough fuel for your expected travel plans.
•Squeeze fuel line primer bulb several times until it feels firm (for portable fuel tanks).
•Check for fuel fumes or damaged or leaking hoses. Gasoline vapors are highly explosive. Repair or
replace any broken or damaged hoses before starting the motor.
•Attach stop switch lanyard to operator. See engine owner’s manual for specific instructions.
•Put throttle in neutral position (on remote models).
•If you are starting a cold engine, move fast idle lever to mid-position.

•Turn key to START position on remote models. Do not operate starter continuously for more than 10
seconds without pausing. Allow starter to cool between start attempts. See engine owner’s manual for
details.
•If throttle is not in neutral position, motor may not turn over. Move throttle lever up and down slightly and try
again.
•If the motor is equipped with a carburetor, run engine approximately one to two minutes at fast idle speed
(1200 to 1500 RPM) to warm up engine. Keep boat secure at dock until engine is warmed up. Return fast
idle lever to down position after warm-up.
Leaving the Dock: After the motor has warmed up, you are ready to leave the dock.
•Check the steering operation by turning the steering wheel full to port and then to starboard while observing
the outdrive movement.
•Check wind and water current or anything that will affect the way you maneuver your boat away from the
dock.
•Release mooring lines and shift throttle into gear. You should be running at very slow speeds as you move
away from the dock. Watch to make sure you don’t swing the boat into the dock as you are pulling away.
•Make sure passengers stay seated while casting off and while underway. Sudden shifts in the boat can
cause a passenger to fall.
Steering: Boat steering is not self-centering. Steering is affected by engine and propeller torque, trim tab setting,
water current and the speed of the boat. You should be constantly at the helm. Steering a boat has been
compared to driving a rear-wheel car on slippery pavement. When you turn the steering wheel, the stern responds
first by swinging in the opposite direction of the bow. When leaving the dock or trying to avoid an object in the
water, swing can be critical.
•Always give yourself plenty of room to make a turn. You should also slow the speed of your boat while
turning. Never make sharp, fast turns as you can easily lose control of the boat and endanger passengers.
•When making tight turns, trim motor in for better handling. Since both the thrust and steering are at the
stern of the boat, the stern pushes away from the direction of the turn. The bow follows a smaller turning
circle than the stern.
Boat Speed: The maximum speed at which you can make sudden turns without losing control of your boat is the
maneuvering speed of your boat. Maneuvering speed varies depending on wind, wave and other factors. The
more experience you have with your boat, the more comfortable you will feel at the helm. Until you get the feel of
your boat, it would be best to error on the side of caution. Never drive the boat faster than what you feel
comfortable with.
Trimming: Below are some general principals of trimming your boat. For a more detailed discussion of trimming,
refer to your engine owner’s manual about the trim controls installed on your boat.
•The outboard or stern drive must be trimmed to adjust to the ideal boat angle for given load and water
condition. The outboard motor should be trimmed so it is perpendicular to the water when the boat is
running at full speed.
•Trim cannot be adjusted while running on boats equipped with a manual tilt system.
•Excessive trimming up can cause ventilation.
•Trimming down can cause the front of the tubes to plow through the water and can slow the boat down.
Weeds: When traveling through weedy areas, weeds may get caught up around the propeller or block water flow
through the raw water intake, which could cause trouble. After leaving a weedy area, shift the motor to neutral for a
few seconds and then reverse for a few seconds to unwind any weeds that may be wrapped around the propeller.
Shallow Water: When operating in shallow water, make sure the water intakes located in the lower gearcase are
submerged at all times. If the engine is equipped with a water pump indictor, check it for proper operation. Proceed
at a slow speed and lower engine immediately when deeper water is reached. Also see “Running Aground.”
Notice: Operating a motor with lower unit dragging on the bottom will result in propeller wear. It may also
cause sand to be forced into the water pump which may cause damage to the pump.

VI. General Rules of Seamanship
•Cross waves at right angles.
•When caught in heavy water or squalls, head either directly into the waves or at a slight angle. Reduce
speed, but maintain enough power to maneuver your boat safely.
•Keep your speed where you feel you have the most control of your boat. Respect the rights of boaters
engaged in swimming, water skiing, diving or fishing. Never follow behind a water skier or someone being
pulled behind a boat.
•When meeting a boat head-on, keep to the right whenever possible.
•When two boats cross, the boat to starboard has the right of way.
•When overtaking or passing, the boat being passed has the right of way. The boat being passed is required
to maintain the same course and speed.
•Sail boats always have the right of way.
Stopping: You cannot stop your boat as quickly as you do a car. To stop the boat, slow your speed to 5 M.P.H. or
less, then put the engine in reverse. By slowly increasing the reverse power, you can stop the boat in a short
distance. Keep in mind that the boat steering is not as responsive in reverse as in forward.
Anchoring: You may want to anchor your boat for recreational purposes, such as fishing, or in an emergency. The
weight of your anchor and size of your anchor line depends on the size and weight of your boat. A light-weight
burying anchor grips into the bottom and holds your boat secure. An anchor will usually hold best in a mixture of
mud and clay or in hard sand. Holding power should be more important than weight. Your dealer can help you
select the proper anchoring equipment.
The length of the anchor line should be six to eight times the depth of the water to assure that the anchor bites into
the bottom. The bottom end of the anchor line should be galvanized chain. The rest of the line should be nylon
anchor line.
•Secure the anchor line to the bow deck cleat or eye. Do not tie the line to hardware that is not designed to
support this stress. Do not attach the anchor at the stern. A small current will make the boat unsteady. A
strong current can pull a boat anchored by the stern, under water and keep it there.
•If you are anchoring for more than a few hours, use more than one anchor. If you use only one anchor,
make sure your boat has enough space to swing full circle in case of shifting winds.
•Keep the anchor and line in an area on your boat where it will be readily available in an emergency.
Dropping Anchor:
•Attach end of line to the bow deck cleat or eye.
•Maneuver the boat into the wind or current, over the spot where the anchor is going to be. Turn motor off
and carefully lower the anchor and make sure it has “caught.”
•Take a mental note of landmarks and check them after about a few minutes to make sure you have not
drifted. Re-check position periodically.
Weighing Anchor:
•To weigh or pull the anchor in, you need to pull the boat back toward the anchor by pulling on the anchor
line.
•When the line is vertical, pull up firmly.
•If the anchor gets stuck, feed out a few feet of line and attach it to the bow cleat. Maneuver the boat around
the anchor, keeping the line taut until you find an angle that will pull the anchor free.
Docking:
•Always approach the dock slowly. If possible, come in against the wind or current, whichever is stronger.
Come in at 30-45°angle. As the boat nears the dock, slowly swing parallel to it.
•If wind or current is moving toward the dock, move parallel to the dock further out. Let the wind or current
push you in. Approach slowly at a slight angle with engine in slow reverse. Gently swing parallel. Use
extreme caution when the wind or current is from your stern. Turn off motor.

•Tie stern first, then the bow. Tie up only to the tie-down eyes. Never use the handrails or bimini frame.
•Be sure you have enough fenders or bumpers to protect the boat from damage. If possible, tie up with the
bow towards the waves. Use a good-quality double-braided nylon line.
Mooring: After you have positioned your boat next to the dock, you must secure it with mooring lines to keep it in
position. Mooring lines must be long enough to secure your boat wherever it is docked. For example, the length of
the lines of a 20-foot pontoon should be at least 19 feet. An eye splice at the end of each line works well with bow
or stern cleats.
The mooring lines used most often are bow line, the stern line, and spring lines. The bow line and the stern line
secure your boat’s bow and stern. Attach line to your mooring eyes on the front and rear pontoons. The two spring
lines keep your boat from moving forward or backward when you are moored alongside a dock.
If you are mooring your boat for a short time, bow and stern lines may be the only lines you need. If you are
mooring your boat for a longer time or the currents are swift, you should use spring lines. The stern spring line
leads from the boat’s stern cleat forward to the piling or cleat on the dock. The bow spring line leads from the bow
cleat aft to the dock.
If you are mooring your boat in a slip, bow and spring lines, port and starboard, will keep your boat in position.
If tides are a consideration, be sure to leave slack in the line to make up for the rise and fall of the water while your
boat is docked.
Right of Way: In general, boats with less maneuverability have the right-of-way over more agile craft. You must
stay out of the way of the following vessels:
•A vessel not under command or that has run aground. Due to their circumstances, these vessels have no
maneuverability.
•A vessel restricted in its maneuverability, such as vessels that are performing work such as: surveying,
dredging, laying pipe or cable, or servicing navigational markers.
•A vessel engaged in fishing. This includes boats fishing with lines, trawls or nets; but not trolling lines.
•Sailboats. However, if a sailboat is using a propeller to move forward, it is considered a power boat even if
its sails are up.
Meeting Head-On: When two boats meet head-on, neither boat has the right-of-way. Both boats should decrease
speed and pass port to port. However, if both boats are on the left side of a channel, each vessel should sound two
short horn blasts and pass starboard to starboard.
Crossing Situations: In a crossing situation, the boat on the right from the 12-4 o’clock position has the right-of-way.
It must hold course and speed. The boat without right-of-way must keep clear and pass to the stern.
Overtaking: The boat overtaking the one ahead must yield the right-of-way to the boat being passed. The
overtaking boat must make any necessary adjustments to keep out of its path. The boat being passed should hold
its course and speed.
The General Prudential Rule: The general prudential rule regarding right-of-way is that if a collision appears
unavoidable, neither boat has right-of-way. As prescribed in the “Rules of the Road,” both boats must act to avoid
collision.
Night Running: Operating between sunset and sunrise (hours vary by state), or in conditions of reduced visibility,
must use navigational lights. Nighttime operation can be dangerous, especially during bad weather or fog. All
“Rules of the Road” apply at night, but it is best to slow down and stay clear of all boats regardless of who has the
right-of-way.
To see more easily at night, avoid bright lights when possible. Also, it is helpful to have a passenger keep watch for
other boats, water hazards and navigational aids.

To determine the size, speed and direction of other vessels at night, you should use the running lights. A green
light indicates the starboard, while a red light indicates the port side. In general, if you see a green light, you have
the right-of-way. If you see a red light, give way to the other vessel.
Whistle Signals: Out of the water, whistle signals are commonly used. Although using a whistle signal is not
necessary every time a boat is near, operators must signal their intentions when necessary to avoid a potentially
confusing or hazardous situation. Whistle blasts must be made early enough to be noticed and understood by other
boaters.
It is customary for the privileged boat to signal first and the give way boat to return the same signal to acknowledge
she understands and will comply.
Use the danger signal (five or more short and rapid blasts) if intent is not clear. A short blast is 1 or 2 seconds long.
A long blast is 4 to 6 seconds long.
VII. Emergency Operation
Boaters should respond to emergency calls if they are nearby and can help. You are expected to proceed to the
scene and render assistance. Distress calls often are made for assistance with a disabled boat. A VHF marine
radio, channel 16, is the best device for calling for help. Two international signals are: MAYDAY (life/death
situation, request immediate assistance), and PAN PAN (safety of the boat or person in jeopardy).
The Federal Boat Safety Act of 1971 requires boat operators involved in accidents to offer aid to others in the
accident and in emergencies. The law’s “Good Samaritan” clause also absolves you from civil liability in the event
that your assistance causes bodily injury or property damage.
As a boat owner, you have accepted many responsibilities. You should know how to cope with any type of
emergency that could occur on your boat or someone else’s. Try not to panic and always use common sense.
Some tips for particular situations are listed below.
Fire or Explosion: If a fire occurs, stop the boat immediately. Position the boat so that the fire is downwind. Boat
fires involving flammable liquids, such as gasoline, can be extinguished with your dry chemical or carbon dioxide
type extinguisher. Read the extinguisher directions and memorize them. Be prepared to use the extinguisher
quickly if the need arises.
You must decide whether to abandon ship or stay aboard and try to extinguish it. If the fire involves a trash
container, smoldering upholstery or an electrical fire, try to extinguish the blaze by aiming the extinguisher nozzle at
the base of the flame. However, a fire involving the fuel system greatly increases the danger of an explosion. If it is
necessary to abandon ship, make sure all passengers wear a PFD or take it with them before going overboard.
Fire is an immediate danger after a gasoline vapor explosion. Gasoline floats on water and can spread out over the
surface of the water. If you do abandon ship, keep yourself and your passengers clear of the burning boat.
Storms: Storms sometimes appear very quickly and without advance notice. Weather forecasts can often be
inaccurate. Watch the horizon for approaching storms. If you are get caught in a storm and do not have time to
return to port, everyone aboard should put a PFD on and all gear should be tied down. Try to head into waves or at
a slight angle. If the weather is hazardous, you should head into the closest port available.
Fog: Fog can form quickly as the air temperature drops, especially if the air is calm and humid. Keep the following
guidelines in mind:
•Turn on navigation lights.
•Instruct everyone on board to put on a PFD.
•Have one of your passengers act as a lookout, and have the other passengers stay as quiet as possible to
listen for other boats.
•Reduce your boat speed.

•From time to time you should stop the motor and listen for fog signals if there are any in your area.
•Sound the horn at proper intervals to warn other boaters.
•If there is any doubt about continuing movement, anchor. Listen for other fog signals while continuing to
sound the horn for a boat at anchor.
Man Overboard: If someone in your boat falls overboard on one side of the boat, turn the steering wheel to move
the propeller away from the person. Circle around quickly, approaching into the wind and waves. Turn off the
engine when the person is alongside. If he is able to grasp, throw him a line or extend a paddle or a boat hook
within his reach. Help the person back on board. If the person falls in directly in front of the boat, the best course of
action would be to cut the engine immediately.
If the man overboard is a non-swimmer, do not dive over the side unless you are trained in lifesaving techniques. It
is harder to save two people than one. If the person is a non-swimmer, throw them a throwable floatation device or
a PFD and try to get them calmed down. Help them back into the boat.
If he or she is unconscious and has sunk underneath the water, turn off the motor. Start yelling for help, even if you
think no one is around. Take a boat hook or paddle and gently probe beneath the surface for the person. If you are
a good swimmer or have been trained in lifesaving techniques, you can enter the water, taking at least one
throwable PFD with you, bring them to bring them to the surface and attempt to pull them onto the boat. Try to keep
calling for help: you never know who might hear you.
Collision: If you are involved in a collision with a boat, or with a fixed object such as a pier, sandbar, reef, or bridge,
check for injuries and render first aid, if necessary. Before proceeding, check out your boat thoroughly. Check
steering cables for possible jamming. Raise the motor and inspect for possible propeller or lower unit damage.
Proceed carefully to port and remove the boat from the water to thoroughly inspect it for damage.
Running Aground: Operating in shallow water can present a number of hazards. Sand bars in narrow inlets are
constantly shifting, making it difficult to mark them with buoys. Sometimes sand bars are indicated by waves as
they form into breakers when passing over sand bars.
If your boat runs aground, first check persons aboard for injury. Then check for damage to the boat. It may be
possible to rock the boat by shifting the weight of the passengers and gear and by raising the drive unit before
reversing the engine. If you ground your boat on a sand bar, shut down the engine and seek help from another
boater or radio for help. See your dealer as soon as possible, as sand ingested in the engine cooling system can
cause major engine damage.
If the drive unit strikes an underwater hazard, check for boat and drive unit damage. If the motor vibrates
excessively after striking an underwater obstruction, it may indicate a damaged propeller. If vibration is noticeable,
return to port slowly to prevent further drive and engine damage from an out-of-balance condition.
Towing and Being Towed: If wind and waves are high, it may not be easy to extend the tow line from one boat to
another without risking a collision. Use a light throwing line with a weight on one end and the heavier towing line
secured to it. Always attach the tow line to both stern eyes of the tow boat and bow eye of the boat being towed.
Never use docking cleats for tow anchoring points; they are not designed for the tremendous loads from towing.
Use at least ½” double braided nylon line (in good condition) for the tow bridle. Make a “Y” shaped bridle to
properly distribute loads. Be sure to leave at least 4 boat lengths between boats. Adjust the tow line to match wave
action. Keep the boats on the crest or in the trough of the waves at the same time. In protected, calm waters,
shorten the line for better handling. Tow at moderate speed, and allow for adverse wind and wave conditions for
most efficient towing. If you need a tow, or wish to tow another boat or pontoon, use great care. The boat structure
can be damaged by excessive pulling strain. You should always offer help to a boat in trouble. However, towing a
capsized, larger, grounded, or hull damaged boat is dangerous. Give assistance to the occupants, then call the
proper authorities.
VIII. Safety

You should become familiar with some basic safe operating procedures contained herein. Before getting underway,
make sure you have all required safety equipment on board and that all passengers know where it is and how to
use it. You should also periodically inspect all equipment to make sure it is in good working condition.
If you have any questions about required equipment, you can check with state or local authorities or call the U.S.
Coast Guard Boating Safety Hotline at 1-800-368-5647. The following is the minimum required equipment. The
owner is responsible for having all required safety equipment aboard.
Required Equipment: This is the U.S. Coast Guard MINIMUM requirements for recreational vessels. This table
does not cover requirements for boats over 40 feet in length, visual distress signals (for coastal waters, the Great
Lakes and U.S. owned boats on the high seas), or any ventilation or back-fire flame arrestor requirements.
EQUIPMENT CLASS A (LESS THAN 16
FEET)
CLASS I (16 TO LESS
THAN 26 FEET)
Personal Floatation Devices
One approved Type I, II, III
or V (must be worn) PFD
for each person on board or
being towed on water skis,
tubes, etc.
One approved Type I, II or
III PFD for each person on
board or being towed on
water skis, etc. & one
throwable Type IV device.
Bell, Whistle
Every vessel less than 39.4
feet must carry an efficient
sound producing device.
Same
Fire Extinguisher
One B-I type approved
hand portable fire
extinguisher. (Not required
on outboard motorboats
less than 26 feet if the
construction of the
motorboat is such that it
does not permit the
entrapment of explosive or
flammable gases or vapors
and if fuel tanks are not
permanently installed.)
Same
Personal Floatation Devices (PFDs): The PFDs have to be in good condition, readily accessible, legibly marked
with the Coast Guard approval number, and are of the appropriate size (in regards to the weight range and chest
size marked on each PFD) for each person on board.
•If your boat is less than 16 feet, every person aboard must be wearing a PFD.
•If your boat is 16 feet or longer, you need one PFD for each person aboard plus a throwable device.
•All PFDs must be Coast Guard approved to be counted toward the legal requirement.
•All PFDs stowed aboard must be in plain site and readily accessible, not under a seat or in their original
wrappers.
•Always check your older PFDs for buoyancy every year.
•In Michigan, if a child is less than 6 years of age, he or she must be wearing a PFD when aboard. Please
check your state regulations.
Types of PFDs that would be Applicable to Lo Pro Rider:
Type II wearable PFDs are for calm, inland water, or where there is a good chance of fast rescue. Turns some
unconscious wearers face up in the water.

Type III wearable PFDs are good for calm, inland water, or where there is a good chance of fast rescue. It has little
or no turning ability. The wearer may have to tilt head back in avoid going face down. It has the same buoyancy as
the Type II PFD. Type III PFDs are typically used for recreational water skiing and water sports.
Type IV is a throwable device. These are usually cushions, rings, or horseshoe buoys and are thrown to a person
in the water, grasped and held by the user until rescued.
Type V is for special uses or conditions. It must be worn and inflated. When inflated it provides buoyancy
equivalent to Type I, II or III PFDs. It must be worn when underway.
Special attention should be given to all children on board and the type and size of PFD they should wear. The
website, www.uscgboating.org, says, “Many adults believe themselves capable of diving into the water to rescue a
child who falls overboard. This is a dangerous misconception. Adults may not notice a child falling overboard right
away. Children who fall in may not surface immediately. It can be difficult to locate a child in the water—especially
when the vessel is in motion. Life jackets could prevent approximately two-thirds of all boating-related drownings
of children ages 14 and under. In fact, in most states, children under 13 must wear life jackets. It’s the law.”
Fire Extinguishers: Coast Guard Approved fire extinguishers are required on boats where a fire hazard could be
possible from the motors or the fuel system. Extinguishers are classified by a letter and number symbol. The letter
indicates the type fire the unit is designed to extinguish (Type B for example are designed to extinguish flammable
liquids such as gasoline, oil and grease fires). The number indicates the relative size of the extinguisher: the higher
the number, the larger the extinguisher. Coast Guard approved extinguishers required for boats are hand portable,
either B-I or B-II classification and have a specific marine type mounting bracket. It is recommended the
extinguishers be mounted in a readily accessible position, away from the areas where a fire could likely start such
as the engine area. Extinguisher markings can be confusing because extinguishers can be approved for several
different types of hazards. For instance, an extinguisher marked "Type A, Size II, Type B:C, Size I" is a B-I
extinguisher. Look for the part of the label that says "Marine Type USCG"
Make sure Type B is indicated
Portable extinguishers will be either size I or II. Size III and larger are too big for use on most recreational
boats.
The extinguisher can be any one of the following: 2-pound dry chemical, 4-pound carbon dioxide, or 1 ¼ gallon
foam extinguisher. All hand portable fire extinguishers should be mounted in a readily accessible location away
from the engine compartment. Everyone aboard should know where the fire extinguisher is and how to use it. If
your fire extinguisher has a charge indicator gauge, keep in mind that cold or hot weather may affect the gauge
reading. Consult the instruction manual supplied with the fire extinguisher to determine the accuracy of the gauge.
Sound Signaling Device: Class I boats are required to carry a hand-, mouth-, or power-operated horn or whistle.
They are also recommended for Class A boats. The device should be used to promote safe passing, as a warning
to other vessels in fog or confined areas, or as a signal to operators of locks or drawbridges. The following are
standard whistle signals:
•One prolonged blast: warning signal
•One short blast: pass on my port side
•Two short blasts: pass on my starboard side
•Three short blasts: engines in reverse
•Five or more blasts: danger signal
Navigation Lights: Navigation lights are intended to let other boaters know of your presence and course. Use of
navigation lights is required if you are operating your boat between sunset and sunrise. The masthead or all-round
white light must be at least 1 meter above the sidelights. Sidelights may be a combination light, instead of two
separate lights.
Visual Distress Signals: All vessels used on coastal waters, the Great Lakes, territorial seas, and those waters
connected directly to them, up to a point where a body of water is less than two miles wide, must be equipped with

U.S.C.G. Approved visual distress signals. Vessels owned in the United States operating on the high seas must be
equipped with U.S.C.G. Approved visual distress signals.
These vessels are not required to carry day signals but must carry night signals when operating from sunset to
sunrise:
Recreational boats less than 16 feet in length
Boats participating in organized events such as races, regattas, or marine parades.
Open sailboats less than 26 feet in length not equipped with propulsion machinery.
Manually propelled boats.
Pyrotechnic Devices: Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals must be Coast Guard Approved, in serviceable
condition, and readily accessible.
They are marked with an expiration date. Expired signals may be carried as extra equipment, but cannot
be counted toward meeting the visual distress signal requirement, since they may be unreliable.
Launchers manufactured before January 1, 1981, intended for use with approved signals, are not required
to be Coast Guard Approved.
If pyrotechnic devices are selected, a minimum of three are required. That is, three signals for day use
and three signals for night. Some pyrotechnic signals meet both day and night use requirements.
Pyrotechnic devices should be stored in a cool, dry location, if possible.
A watertight container painted red or orange and prominently marked "DISTRESS SIGNALS" or
"FLARES" is recommended.
U.S.C.G. Approved Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals and associated devices include:
Pyrotechnic red flares, hand-held or aerial.
Pyrotechnic orange smoke, hand-held or floating.
Launchers for aerial red meteors or parachute flares.
EACH OF THESE DEVICES HAS A DIFFERENT OPERATING (BURNING) TIME. CHECK THE LABEL TO
SEE HOW LONG EACH PYROTECHNIC DEVICE WILL ACTUALLY BE ILLUMINATED. THIS WILL ALLOW
YOU TO SELECT A WARNING DEVICE BETTER SUITED TO THE CONDITIONS WHERE YOUR BOAT
WILL OPERATE?
Non-Pyrotechnic Devices: Non-Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals must be in serviceable condition, readily
accessible, and certified by the manufacturer as complying with U.S.C.G. requirements. They include:
Orange distress flag:
Day signal only.
Must be at least 3 x 3 feet with a black square and ball on an orange background.
Must be marked with an indication that it meets Coast Guard requirements in 46 CFR 160.072.
Most distinctive when attached and waved on a paddle, boathook, or flown from a mast.
May also be incorporated as part of devices designed to attract attention in an emergency, such as
balloons, kites, or floating streamers.
Electric distress light:
Accepted for night use only
Automatically flashes the international SOS distress signal: (... — — — ...)
Must be marked with an indication that it meets Coast Guard requirements in 46 CFR 161.013.
Under Inland Navigation Rules, a high intensity white light flashing at regular intervals from 50-70 times per
minute is considered a distress signal. Such devices do NOT count toward meeting the visual distress signal
requirement, however. Regulations prohibit display of visual distress signals on the water under any
circumstances except when assistance is required to prevent immediate or potential danger to persons on
board a vessel.
All distress signals have distinct advantages and disadvantages. No single device is ideal under all conditions
or suitable for all purposes. Pyrotechnics are universally recognized as excellent distress signals. However,
there is potential for injury and property damage if not properly handled. These devices produce a very hot
flame and the residue can cause burns and ignite flammable materials.

Pistol launched and hand-held parachute flares and meteors have many characteristics of a firearm and must
be handled with caution. In some states they are considered a firearm and prohibited from use.
The following are just a few of the variety and combination of devices which can be carried in order to meet the
requirements:
Three hand-held red flares (day and night).
One hand-held red flare and two parachute flares (day and night).
One hand-held orange smoke signal, two floating orange smoke signals (day) and one electric distress light
(night only).
All boaters should be able to signal for help. Boaters must have current dated U.S.C.G. approved day and
night signals for all boats operating on coastal and open bodies of water.
Additional Gear and Equipment:
You may want to consider carrying some of the following equipment and gear, depending on your needs:
Basic Equipment Tools Spare Parts
•Anchor & line
•Dock bumpers
•First-aid kit
•Sun block lotion
•Boat hook
•Tow line
•2 Mooring lines
•Flashlight or portable
searchlight
•Extra warm clothing
•Charts of the area
•Oar or paddle
•Flashlight
•VHF radio
•Compass
•Foul weather gear
•Screwdrivers
•Pliers
•Hammer
•Adjustable wrench
•Spark plug wrench
•Jackknife
•Electrical tape
•Lubricating oil
•Duct tape
•Spare light bulbs
•Spare propeller
•Spare plugs
•Propeller nut and
washer
•Fuses
•Flashlight batteries
Safe Operation: You should never misuse your boat or allow passengers to do so. Use good judgment at all
times. The following list is guidelines that you should adhere to whenever using your boat:
•Never use drugs or alcohol while operating your boat. It is not only dangerous, but it is a Federal offense
carrying a heavy penalty.
•Load your boat within the limits listed on the capacity plate. Balance loads bow to stern and port to
starboard.
•Maintain boat speed at or below the local legal limit. Travel at speeds appropriate for conditions.
•Do not use your boat in weather or conditions that are beyond your skill or experience or beyond the
comfortable capability of the boat or passengers.

•Make sure that at least one other passenger can operate the boat and is familiar with the safety features of
the boat in case of emergency.
•Make sure passengers and gear do no obstruct the operator’s view or ability to move.
•Do not exceed the maximum engine power rating posted on the certification plate attached to your boat.
Passenger Safety: Before getting underway, show all passengers where the safety equipment is stowed and
explain how to use it. All passengers should wear shoes that provide traction on wet surfaces and provide
protection. Passengers should remain seated in seats, with both feet in the deck, inside the deck rails and gates
when underway. Passengers should never be allowed to ride while standing up or sitting on the front while
dangling their feet in the water. A sudden wave could cause them to be pulled into the water, between the two
pontoons, causing them to be run over by the outboard.
Propeller: Do not allow anyone near the propeller, even when the engine is off. This is a dangerous place to be
and all passengers should understand this.
First Aid: As a boat owner, you should be familiar with basic first aid. In addition to minor cuts and fish hook
accidents, you should know how to give mouth-to-mouth resuscitation, know what to do for excessive bleeding,
hypothermia and burns. First aid literature and courses are available through the Red Cross.
Operation of Boat by Minors: Minors should always be supervised by an adult whenever operating a boat. Please
check your state’s laws regarding the minimum age and licensing requirements of minors.
Rules of the Road: As a responsible boater, you will comply with the “Rules of the Road,” The marine traffic laws
enforced by the U.S. Coast Guard. Navigating a boat is much the same as driving an automobile. Operating
either one responsibly means complying with a set of rules intended to prevent accidents. Just as you assume
other car drivers know what you are doing, other boaters assume you know what you are doing.
Carbon Monoxide: Burning a material containing carbon produced a gas called carbon monoxide (CO), an
odorless, colorless gas. Carbon monoxide cannot be seen or smelled, and because it weighs the same as air, it
will distribute throughout an enclosed space without your knowledge. Any device used to burn carbon based
materials on your boat or those around you can be a source of CO. Common sources of carbon monoxide include
internal combustion engines and open flame devices such as charcoal grills.
The lungs absorb carbon monoxide which then reacts with the blood to reduce the blood’s ability to carry oxygen.
The reduced oxygen supply to body tissues results in death of the tissue. Prolonged exposure can cause death.
In high concentrations, CO can be fatal within minutes. The effects of CO in lower concentrations are cumulative
and can be just as lethal over long periods of time. Symptoms of CO poisoning include: itchy and watery eyes,
flushed appearance, throbbing temples, inability to think coherently, ringing in the ears, tightness across the chest,
headaches, drowsiness, nausea, dizziness, fatigue, vomiting, collapse and convulsions.
If you observe any of these symptoms, begin treatment immediately. Prompt action can make the difference
between life and death. Evacuate the area and move the victim to fresh air. Administer oxygen if available and
get medical help.
Open all canvas to ventilate the area. Investigate the source of CO and take immediate corrective action; be
especially aware of sources adjacent to the boat.
Carbon Monoxide Accumulation: Keep exhaust outlets clear of blockage. Provide adequate ventilation.
The following situations are examples of how CO can accumulate with enclosed areas of your boat while docked,
anchored or underway. Become familiar with these examples and their precautions:
•Generator or hull exhaust from other vessels while either docked or anchored can accumulate within
enclosed areas of your boat. Be alert for exhaust from other vessels alongside.
•Under certain conditions, tail wind, boat speed, or high bow angle can draw carbon monoxide into
enclosed areas (back drafting). CO can accumulate to dangerous levels without proper airflow.

•CO in engine exhaust from your boat can accumulate within enclosed areas when your boat is operating at
slow speed or stopped in the water. Although Paddle King Lo Pros are not available with side, rear or front
curtains, please be aware that these things, if added, can increase the possibility of CO accumulation in
your boat.
Lanyard Stop Switch: This safety device is supplied by the manufacturer of the engine. Please refer to the owner’s
manual for detailed information about this switch.
The lanyard stop switch should never be removed or modified and should be kept free of anything that could
interfere with its intended operation.
This safety device will stop the engine if the boat operator falls or moves away from the control area. The clip is
usually secured to the operator’s clothing, arm or leg.
In order for the engine to run, the lock plate on the end of the lanyard must be attached to the engine stop switch.
To reset the switch after the engine was shutdown, reinstall the switch slip above the interrupter switch and slip the
interrupter switch.
Water Sports: Your Lo Pro was not intended nor tested to pull a water skier, knee-boarder, or any other type of
rider of any type of pull-behind or inflatable apparatus. Any attempt of using your Paddle King product in doing so
should be at your own risk.
IX. Trailering
Proper trailer selection is essential for safe towing, loading and unloading your boat. Setup of your boat onto the
trailer is also very important. Improper trailering is one of the major causes of damage to your pontoon tubes. Your
pontoon must be well supported to prevent any damage. A bunk trailer or a mechanical folding trailer should
support the entire length of the tubes, therefore supporting the entire weight of your pontoon. Paddle King will not
be held liable for any damages caused by improper trailer setup or operation.
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR): Check your trailer’s frame for the GVWR. The total weight of your boat,
engine, and anything on the boat such as fuel, battery, gear AND trailer should not exceed the GVWR.
Weight Distribution: If your towing vehicle is equipped with a weight distribution hitch, it must be capable of
handling the GVWR. The weight on the trailer should be evenly distributed and can be checked by determining the
tongue weight.
Tongue weight is a percentage of the total weight of the loaded trailer on its tongue. Ideal tongue weight is not less
than five percent (5%) and not more than ten percent (10%) of the GVWR. For example, if the weight of the loaded
trailer is 3000 pounds (1361 kg), the weight on the tongue should be more than 150 pounds (68 kg), but less than
300 pounds (136 kg). Excessive tongue weight causes the front end of the towing vehicle to sway. Insufficient
tongue weight causes the trailer to sway or fishtail.
To avoid person injury and property damage, be sure to balance the load when trailering. If too much weight rests
on the hitch, the front end of the vehicle will sway or over steer. Insufficient weight on the trailer causes the trailer to
fishtail. In either case, the vehicle will be hard to handle and could become uncontrollable at high speeds.
State regulations usually require that trailers above a specified weight rating be equipped with brakes.
Requirements vary; check with your dealer for additional information.
Hitch: Hitches are divided into classes that specify the gross trailer weight (GTW) and the maximum tongue weight
for each class. Always use a hitch with the same class number as the trailer. Most boat trailers connect to a ball
hitch that is bolted or welded to the towing vehicle. Special heavy-duty equalizing hitches are necessary for trailer
tongue weights of 350 pounds (158 kg) or greater.
The trailer hitch coupler must match the size of the hitch ball. The correct ball diameter is marked on the trailer
coupler.

Safety Chains: Safety chains on the trailer provide added insurance that the trailer will not become completely
detached from the towing vehicle while enroute. Crisscross the chains under the trailer tongue to prevent the
tongue from dropping to the road if the trailer separates from the hitch ball. Safety chains should be of the “Proof
Coil” type and must have a minimum breaking strength equal to the upper limit of the GVWR. Some states require
chains to be locked so that hooks can become detached from the bracket.
Trailering Guidelines:
•Be sure that the trailer bunks support the entire length of the tubes and that the weight is distributed evenly
on the trailer.
•Make sure that the boat is securely tied down and that a safety chain is used.
•Do not trailer with the boat’s bimini top up. It can be severely damaged while trailering.
•Make sure motor is tilted up, if possible. With bunk or float-on style trailer, you should be able to travel with
motor down without support. Check ground clearance of lower unit.
•Be sure your trailer is equipped with functional tail lights and turn signals as required by state and federal
laws.
•Check with your state Department of Motor Vehicles for registration and licensing regulations in your state.
Some states require that boat trailers be registered and licensed.
•Be aware that a turn for the trailer is wider than a turn for the tow vehicle When making a turn, be careful
that your trailer does not strike another vehicle or object.
1. Inspect your trailer regularly to make sure the side supports are in good working order. Check bolts
which secure rollers and supports for tightness. Check wheel bearings frequently for sufficient
grease.
2. Check local and state laws for any additional requirements for trailers.
Backing a Trailer: You should consider practicing backing up with a trailer if you do not have experience do so. Get
accustomed to backing your trailer in an open area. It would be helpful to bring someone who has experience in
backing up a trailer.
Backing a trailer works the opposite of backing a car. If the trailer needs to travel to the right, turn the steering
wheel to the left, and vice versa (see below). Do not turn the wheel too far or over steer. Turn the wheel gradually
until you get the feel of backing your trailer up.
Launching Guidelines: It is a common courtesy to get your boat ready to launch away from the ramp. You may
want to observe a couple of boat launchings before attempting to launch your boat. This gives you a chance to
notice any potential problems on the ramp and the effects of the wind and water current.
Here are a few pointers to remember when launching your boat:
1. Before backing your boat down the launch ramp:
•Remove all stern tie downs.
•Properly secure all loose gear.
•Make sure you have all safety equipment.
•Load all personal gear.
•Lock winch and trailer unit.
•Disconnect trailer wiring from towing vehicle to prevent short circuits caused by submersion.
•Make sure drain plugs are installed.
2. Have an individual at the launch ramp give you directions. Back slowly down the ramp. If the trailer needs
to be maneuvered to the right, turn the towing vehicle’s steering wheel to the right. Always remember to
launch your boat at a right angle to the shoreline.
3. If launching from a trailer, tilt the outboard motor up to the high tilt trailer position to avoid damage during
the launch.
4. When the boat’s transom is in several inches of water, stop the towing vehicle. If you have a manual
transmission, leave it in gear. If you have an automatic transmission, shift to PARK.
5. Turn off the engine and set the parking brake.

6. Place blocks behind the vehicle’s back wheels.
7. Do not detach the winch cable from the bow eye until a mooring line has been secured to one of the boat’s
cleats. Attach one line to bow and one line to the stern to help control the boat. See the Mooring
information in the “Getting Underway” section for suggested procedures.
8. Launch the boat; move it down and OFF the trailer into the water.
9. Secure boat to dock or have someone hold mooring lines.
10. Lower outboard all the way into the water.
11. Pull your towing vehicle away from the launch ramp.
12. Park your vehicle in designated areas. When parking, be sure your towing vehicle and trailer do not block
other boaters from approaching the launch ramp or hinder their ability to maneuver a boat and trailer when
launching.
Loading Your Boat on the Trailer: These are some guidelines for loading the boat back onto the trailer:
1. Back the trailer into the water.
2. When the trailer is in several inches of water:
•Stop the towing vehicle.
•Leave manual transmission in gear or place automatic transmission in park.
•Turn off the engine.
•Set the parking brake.
Please note: If you have a bunk trailer, the trailer may need to be more than several inches in the water before
loading. If you find it difficult to load your boat, you probably have the trailer too deep in the water.
3. Tilt the boat’s drive up to the high tilt position to avoid damage while loading.
4. Pull or drive boat up onto the trailer and secure safety chain.
5. After securing the boat to the trailer start engine on towing vehicle and pull trailer out of the water to
boat securing area. If blocks are connected with a rope to the trailer tongue, you will not need to
remove them before pulling trailer out.
6. Use tie-down to secure the boat on the trailer. Always use bow and stern tie downs to prevent the boat
from shifting.
7. Wipe tubes down to prevent water spots and keep boat clean.
8. Make sure everything in the boat is secure or tied down. Take out any loose gear and place in the
towing vehicle. These items could blow out of the boat while it is being towed and cause a dangerous
situation on the road.
9. Reconnect trailer lights. Check that lights are working.
10. Remove milfoil, zebra mussels, or other aquatic growth from the pontoons, motor and trailer to protect
and maintain our boating waters.
X. Other Helpful Information
Boating Regulations: The local Sheriff Marine Patrol, local Coast Guard office, or State Department of Natural
Resources (DNR) is responsible for enforcing boating regulation. Their goal is to help the boating public. You are
subject to marine traffic laws and the “Rules of the Road” for both federal and state waterways; you must stop if
signaled to do so by enforcement officers, and permit to be boarded if asked. The “Rules of the Road” can be
obtained from your local U.S. Coast Guard Unit or the United States Coast Guard Headquarters by calling (202)
512-1800, and asking for the publication titled “Navigational Rules, International-Inland.”
Many pamphlets prepared by the Coast Guard are available. They explain signal lights, buoys, safety, international
and inland regulations and other information which goes beyond the scope of this manual. “Aides to Navigation”
(U.S. Coast Guard pamphlet #123) explains the significance of various lights and buoys. Because of proposed
alterations in buoys and markers, contact the U.S. Coast Guard to stay informed of changes. Other pamphlets,
including the “Boating Safety Training Manual” and “Federal Requirements for Recreational Boats,” are also
available from the U.S. Coast Guard Headquarters.