Pergola kits USA PREMIUM VINYL PAVILION User manual

PREMIUM VINYL GABLE ROOF
PAVILION STICK-BUILT
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Shown above is a 17' x 17' Open Gable Pavilion
Thank you for your purchase of a new Open Gable Pavilion. Depending on the size of your
Pavilion, installation can usually be completed in 1 to 2 days. These instructions are meant to
serve as a guide for people with a base knowledge of general handyman skills. This assembly
requires a minimum of three people to complete.

Before You Begin
Site Preparation
Tools Needed
2
Please always check with your local building codes, they will vary from state to state.
The base for the Pavilion must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab or on concrete footers, they
should be level where the posts will rest. If they are not, it may be necessary to cut the bottom of the posts
so that the bottoms are all level. Other than this, no cutting is necessary. If you feel that you will need to
make any additional cuts, please contact us before doing so. Making cuts without calling first may make
installation difficult or void our warranties.
When connecting to concrete, use wedge bolts, which are included in the kit. If connecting to an existing
deck, a lag bolt and deck screws (not included) will replace the wedge bolt.
The Pavilion does not give the ability to alter the location of the posts. It is important that they are laid out
correctly and double checked for accuracy before permanently attaching it to the base.
NOTE: These instructions are for building a standard, rectangular pavilion. “Eaves side” references the long
side and “gable side” references the short side (See front page image). If your pavilion has custom dimen-
sions with a longer gable side or square dimensions with equal sides, this reference point will need to be
adjusted appropriately by the builder during installation. CALL WITH ANY QUESTIONS.
It is important that the site is properly prepared before beginning assembly. It is imperative that the site
be level. There are a few choices when installing this structure, the two most common are to anchor the
posts to concrete pad/wood decking or attaching to a concrete footer or two Sonotubes. Sinking the
posts into the ground is not recommended unless it is called for by your local building codes.
Anchoring the posts to concrete/wood decking, is the most common method and is also the simplest.
Please provide a level concrete or wood decking surface, and then lay out the template on the surface.
Mark out the squares where the posts and brackets will go. Line up the markings that were made and
this is where to set the posts. Posts cannot be anchored into loose pavers or stone. Customer assumes risk
if not anchored into concrete or decking joists. This is the method that will be used for the following
instructions:
Please check with the local building codes for the depth required for the footers/concrete slab. Also if
using concrete footers make sure that all of the tops of the footers are level with each other before
starting to build. Contact your Project Advisor with any questions that you may have.
Hammer drill, hammer, level, tape measure, C clamps, socket set, ladder, circular saw

The Pavilion kit includes a
wooden template that will be
used to mark the post loca-
tions. Notice that two of the
2x4 boards have a marking
near the ends. Building a box
will reveal the outside corners
of the posts when properly
placed.
Connect the corners of the
template pieces by driving
two 2 1/2" screws through the
side of the template boards.
Arrange the template pieces
so that they are positioned in
the exact location of where
the Pavilion will be placed.
The boards with the marking
on the end will be across
from each other. The marks
will show where the other
boards will be attached to
create this box.
Notes:
An air-nailer or stapler can be used for rubber or asphalt shingles.
(Air nails and staples not included in the kit.)
There will be a parts list sent with the Pavilion. All hardware is included in each Pavilion kit.
The specific hardware will vary depending on the Pavilion. Please see the parts list for details.
3
1
2
3

Once the template is in posi-
tion, square the template. Do
this by measuring diagonally
from one corner to its oppo-
site corner, then measure
diagonally between the other
two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the
same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measure-
ments are identical.
Begin by assembling the
frame of the Pavilion struc-
ture. Please note that the
Pavilion kit includes some
pre-assembled pieces.
Once the template is “square”,
mark the post locations using
the
INSIDE corners of the
framed box on the concrete
slab with a pencil. After all
the post locations are marked
on the concrete slab, remove
the wooden template. Disas-
semble it and set the 2x4s aside
for use in step 13.
All of the corner posts will
have 2 sides notched. Turn the
notches on the post to the
outside to accept the headers.
The 2 center posts will have 3
sides notched. The unnotched
side will face inside the pavil-
ion.
4X
TOP
TOP
4
5
4
7
6

Collect post components to be
placed on posts (Bottom post
trim, top sleeve trim, top square
trim , and post sleeve). NOTE: If
you ordered an electrical
package, there will be a
6X6 post with a notch in
one side. Put the sleeve
with the receptable on that
post as you complete step
When you have all posts at
marks, fasten the template
boards to the tops of posts.
Make sure all posts compo-
nents are on, as you cannot put
these on later. Make sure all
posts are level and everything
is square.
Assemble post vinyl kit.
NOTE: The notched side is
the top.
With the post on the
ground, slide the sleeve onto
the post. Now install the base
trim from the bottom. Slide
the sleeve trim on from the
top followed by the square
trim. Complete this on all 4
posts and then set the posts
upright.
Starting with the center post
from step 10, attach header
with two 3 1/2” screws (not in
pre-drilled holes) to hold
header in place.
If you ordered Heavy Duty
Anchors for High Wind,
see page 21 Step 1 prior to
standing up the post.
5
8
11
9
10

Make sure the posts are all level
and everything is square. With
base trim still raised, fasten two
L-brackets on the outside edges
of each post with five 2 1/2"
screws per bracket. Some engi-
neering specifications may
require 4 brackets per post.
NOTE: For HD High Wind
brackets see bracket appendi-
ces on page 20 Steps 2-4.
Locate twenty-four 8" GRK
screws in the hardware box (if
you have a standard 4 post struc-
ture).Those go in the pre-drilled
holes at the corners of the
beams.
(6 per corner)
Attach short end headers with
three 3 1/2” screws (in the pre-
drilled holes) into the end of
the other two beams. Repeat
on opposite side with the last
remaining beam.
Locate the 12 GRK 4” screws.
Screw three GRK 4” into left
and right side of the header
seam on the center post
(using the pre-drilled holes).
Repeat on the opposite side
of the pavilion anchoring your
last two beams.
6X
X2
15
6
12
13
14

When all of the nuts have been
tightened fully and the posts
are securely mounted to the
concrete slab, slide the sleeve
and post trim down.
Before inserting the bolt, make
sure dust is removed from
hole. Then screw the nut and
washer on about 1/8” below
the top of the bolt. Next, insert
the wedge anchor bolt into the
hole. To protect the threads
and nut, tap the bolt into the
ground with a piece of wood
as a buffer.
When all posts have two L
brackets on, use a drill with
1/2" masonry bit to drill down
about 1/2" farther than length
of wedge anchor.
Once the wedge anchor is
down against the bracket, use
a wrench and tighten it down.
Do that with all the anchors.
1/2”
PUSH
7
19
18
16
17

Position the 2x8 plate against
the 2x12, vinyl side down. Fasten
the 2x8 to the 2x12 plate at the
corner with one 3 1/2" screw.
Once you have all four corners
together, put two 2 1/2" screws
down into the header approxi-
mately every 16" all around
and repeat on all remaining
sides.
Fasten tie straps, ST2215, with
1 1/2” screws at every seam
on the top of the plate.
NOTE: ST2215 tiestraps not
needed for pavilions under
16' wide.
Fasten the marked "Side
Rafters" to a marked "Ridge
Pole" at each "X", keeping
one edge of the rafters flush
with the vertical line and the
top edge flush with the top of
the ridge pole.
Install the top plates, vinyl side
down. Position one 2x12 on the
eaves side of the pavilion.
Center the plate so that both
ends fall at the same place on
the top of the post, visually split-
ting the post-top from corner to
corner. Be sure the overhang
measurement matches on both
ends. Use two 3 1/2” screws to
fasten the plate. DON’T CUT
WITHOUT CALLING.
RIDGE POLE
8
22
23
20
21

Screw the two sections togeth-
er at the top with two 2 1/2”
screws between every rafter.
Keep ends even.
Set finished sections up onto
plate.
Anchor each rafter to the
plate on the marked “X”s
using three 3 1/2” screws,
staying flush with the vertical
line keeping 1/4-1/2" away
from the edge of the plate.
Fasten two 2x4 temporary
props at either end of ridge
pole to hold in place.
NOTE: If you purchased an
electrical package turn to
page 21 for installation
instructions.
3X
9
25
27
26
24

Starting on the long side, hold
fascia in place butting the top
of the fascia board against a
square, following the pitch of
the decking. Fascia should not
be lower than the pitch of the
decking; the end of the fascia
should remain flush with the
end of the plate.
Securely interlock each piece
of the roof decking, starting
from the bottom and working
up. Repeat step 33 on the
remaining side of roof.
Install the first piece of roof
decking making sure not to
extend past plate edge.
Board may need to be cut to
length. (At times decking
may need to be spliced on a
single rafter.) Fasten decking
using two 2” nails per rafter.
Fasten one “A23 Simpson”
bracket to the side of each
rafter with 1 1/2” screws.
Then anchor the bracket to
the plate with more 1 1/2”
screws.
NOTE: A23 Simpson
Brackets not needed for
pavilions under 16' wide.
SIDE
VIEW
Note: With metal roof
installation, fascia should
be installed 3/4" higher than
the top of the roof decking.
31
10
28
29
30

The long side fascia boards will
overlap the short sides and will
extend out past them 11" (12" past
the top plate). Align the pre-marked
line with the end of the short side
fascia board ends. Attach the long
side fascia to the top plate just as
was done with the short sides. The
long fascia will need to be connect-
ed to the short fascia boards with
2 1/2" screws. Follow this process
until all fascia boards are installed.
Install the slant pieces. You
might have to cut them if they
do not fit. Fasten with two 2 1/2"
screws per board. (One on the
top and one on the bottom)
Next, drive 2 1/2" screws every
16" along the entire length
of the fascia board. Follow
these same steps with the
other short side fascia board
as well.
Once all the rafters are con-
nected, install the vertical
board of the gable sunburst
design. Make sure it is in the
center of the building. Fasten
with four 2 1/2" screws. Two
on top, two on bottom.
BOTH
SIDES
11
33
35
34
32

Now you are ready to install gable
end fascia. These are the boards
that have slant cuts on both ends.
It might need to be cut down to
size. Keep it flush on top of roof
panel and center of ridge beam.
There will be two different
size half-moon trim pieces.
The smaller one goes on top
of the fascia. The larger one
fits on the inside. Fasten the
half-moon trim pieces to all
three boards with one 1 1/2"
screw. Repeat the same pro-
cess on the inside.
Fasten to the 2x4 rafter. One
2 1/2" screw at top and two
at the bottom going into
fascia. Then one every 16".
Locate the corner braces.
Take the 2x4 board out from
center of brace.
12
37
39
38
36

Install the inside corner trim.
Fasten with three 2 3/4"
Cortex screws.
Once you have all the braces
installed, put the 2x4 block
back in place, fasten with two
2 1/2” screws at the top and
two 2 1/2“ screws at the
bottom.
Keep the brace flush on the
outside of the post. Fasten to
post with two 3 1/2” screws
and up into the header with
two 3 1/2” screws. Line the
top of the brace up with the
header seam above staying
5/8” from flush. Being sure to
keep the back of the brace
flush with the post below.
Install the bottom brace covers
using three 2 3/4” Cortex
screws. Continue with all 8
braces.
Use Cortex
counter-sink bit
Use Cortex
counter-sink bit
13
42
41
40
43

Install the inside center trim
by fastening it to the top of
the center post with six 2 3/4”
Cortex screws into the
pre-drilled holes on the face
of the inside center trim.
Install the outside center trim
by fastening it to the top of
the center post with six 2 3/4”
Cortex screws into the
pre-drilled holes on the face
of the outside center trim.
Place the outside corner trim
box flush against the header
and the brace, being sure
that the top corner point is
centered on the plate seam.
Fasten with six 2 3/4” Cortex
screws into the pre-drilled
holes on the face of the
corner trim.
Fasten top square trim to
bottom of braces with four 2
1/2” screws. Repeat on all
posts.
Use Cortex
counter-sink bit
Use Cortex
counter-sink bit
Use Cortex
counter-sink bit
Use Cortex
counter-sink bit
14
44
45
46
47

Slide the 6x6 top sleeve trim
up to the top square trim and
fasten with 1 1/2” pan head
screws one centered on every
side. Repeat with all posts.
Plug all countersinked Cortex
screw holes with provided
plugs, and using the provid-
ed caulk, caulk all gaps in the
trim components.
49
48
1
Installing Collar Ties
Your pavilion kit may include collar ties. Collar ties prevent the middle of the main beams from bowing
outwards due to the downward pressure of the roof due to gravity (i.e., the weight of the roof).
Identify the collar ties in your kit. A collar tie is a 2x4 (2x6 for larger sized
pavilions) with the ends mitred to match the pitch of your roof, like this:
For the purposes of these instructions, we will assume you have a 2x4 collar
tie, rather than a 2x6.
2
If you have only one collar tie, you will fasten it to the center rafter (skip to
Step 4 on the next page). If you have more than one collar tie, space the
collar ties on the ground evenly along the length of the structure, each
collar tie directly below a rafter.
15

Fasten horizontal "Roof Lath"
pieces with two 2" roofing
nails at each rafter. Place the
first piece of lath directly on
top of the lowest decking
board. Space each lath board
roughly 20-24" apart with the
longest piece placed at the
bottom and the shortest piece
at the top. (Lath boards may
need to be cut to length.)
LATH
LATH
LATH
LATH
Roofing Option 1:
Installing A Metal Roof
16
1
3Grab a collar tie and raise it up to the interior ceiling of the structure. Push
the collar tie up against the bottom of T&G so that the mitred end of the
collar tie is flush with the bottom of the T&G, and the 4” face of the 2x4 is
flush against side of your rafter.
Fasten the collar tie to the
rafter with six 2 1/2" screws at
each end of the collar tie.
4
Collar Tie
Typically 2x4 or 2x6

The next piece must properly
overlap on the far edge. Last
piece may need to be cut to
size to be flush with the edge
of the fascia.
Install the ribbing roughly
1 1/2-2" from the bottom of
the drip edge. Do not stretch
the ribbing because the
grooves of the roof must
line up with the ribs.
Install the drip edge over the
bottom lath piece. Cut each
piece to length. Fasten with
1" screws, staples, or nails
every 16".
Install the tin, starting at right
side and moving left. Ensure
the first piece is installed
squarely. Keep the bottom of
the tin flush with the drip
edge. Fasten with 1” screws.
The first piece will have three
screws at every lath.
17
5
3
4
2

Locate ridge cap. Remove
backing from foam and
attach to the underside of
the ridge cap. Place ridge
cap, flush with previously
installed trim, fastening every
24” with 1 1/2” screws on both
sides.
Once gable end trim is cut to
the correct angle, attach the
trim piece with one 1” screw
into the fascia board every 24”
of the open gable end. Next,
fasten the top of the same trim
piece with 1” screws at every
roof lath.
Once you have all the tin
installed, hold the gable end
trim in place to mark the upper
end of the trim that will need
to be cut to meet flush with
the other side.
When complete, repeat steps
6-8 on the other gable end.
CUT TRIM AT PEAK
9
18
6
7
8

To install 1st row of shingles,
turn shingle upside down
with black tar line at bottom
edge, facing up; and attach
to roof using four 5/8” roof-
ing nails. Place nails approxi-
mately 3” from bottom.
Roofing Option 2:
Installing An Asphalt Roof
NOTE: Before you begin the steps below, install roof paper starting at the bottom. Be sure to overlap 2" as
you work upward. Drip edge will then be installed on all edges of the roof, using a fastener every 16".
Roofing Fasteners
Please note we do not include fasteners for asphalt shingles with our kits. This is because some states
require different fasteners than others, and because some customers have different tools than others
(hammer, nail gun, pneumatic stapler, hammer tacker, etc.).
Please use shallow depth fasteners to fasten your shingles to your 1x6 roof decking. For example:
• 5/8” long roofing nails
• Roofing staples with 5/8” leg and 1” wide crown
These fasteners will certainly be sufficient to hold the shingles to your roof in high storm winds, and will
not pierce the bottom surface of the 1x6 roof decking.
DO NOT PLACE PLYWOOD, OSB (ORIENTED STRAND BOARD) OR OTHER
DECKING ON TOP OF THE 1X6 TONGUE AND GROOVE.
It is not necessary and is too heavy for your structure.
19
1

Use four 5/8” roofing nails
and attach to roof through
shingle at the center line
marked on the shingle. Do
not fasten below the line or
your fasteners will be exposed.
Trim corner shingles using a
shingle scissor or utility knife.
When using a knife, cut on
the bottom side.
Attach second row of shingles
to the roof using 5/8” roof
nails provided or a power
stapler. Do not use long nails
or staples that protrude
through 1X6 roof decking.
CUT SHINGLES
AT ROOF’S EDGE
2
5
5
20
4
3
Start second row, line up
bottom of shingle with the
architectural line on the
shingle below.