Pergola kits USA WOOD PAVILION User manual

WOOD TRADITIONAL (HIP) ROOF
PAVILION STICK-BUILT
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
(Shown above is a 20' x 30’ Pavilion)
Thank you for your purchase of a new Pavilion. Depending on the size of your
Pavilion, installation can usually be completed in 1 to 2 days. These instructions are meant to
serve as a guide for people with a base knowledge of general handyman skills. This assembly
requires a minimum of two people to complete.

Before You Begin
Site Preparation
Tools Needed
2
Please always check with your local building codes, they will vary from state to state.
The base for the Pavilion must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab or on concrete
footers, they should be level where the posts will rest. If they are not, it may be necessary to cut the
bottom of the posts so that the bottoms are all level. Other than this, no cutting is necessary. If you
feel that you will need to make any additional cuts, please contact us before doing so. Making cuts
without calling first may make installation difficult or void our warranties.
When connecting to concrete, use wedge bolts, which are included in the kit. If connecting to an
existing deck, a lag bolt and deck screws (not included) will replace the wedge bolt.
The Pavilion does not give the ability to alter the location of the posts. It is important that they are
laid out correctly and double checked for accuracy before permanently attaching it to the base.
It is important that the site is properly prepared before beginning assembly. It is imperative
that the site be level. There are a few choices when installing this structure, the two most
common are to anchor the posts to concrete pad/wood decking or attaching to a concrete
footer or two Sonotubes. Sinking the posts into the ground is not recommended unless it is
called for by your local building codes.
Anchoring the posts to concrete/wood decking, is the most common method and is also the
simplest. Please provide a level concrete or wood decking surface, and then lay out the tem-
plate on the surface. Mark out the squares where the posts and brackets will go. Line up the
markings that were made and this is where to set the posts. Posts cannot be anchored into loose
pavers or stone. Customer assumes risk if not anchored into concrete or decking joists. This is the
method that will be used for the following instructions:
Please check with the local building codes for the depth required for the footers/concrete
slab. Also if using concrete footers make sure that all of the tops of the footers are level with
each other before starting to build. Contact your Project Advisor with any questions that you
may have.
Hammer drill, hammer, level, tape measure, C clamps, socket set, ladder, circular saw

3
Notes:
An air-nailer or stapler can be used for roof decking on asphalt shingles.
(Air nails and staples not included in the kit.)
There will be a parts list sent with the Pavilion. All hardware is included in each Pavilion kit.
The specific hardware will vary depending on the Pavilion. Please see the parts list for details.
The Pavilion kit includes a
wooden template that will be
used to mark the post loca-
tions. Notice that two of the
2x4 boards have a marking
near the ends. Building a box
will reveal the outside corners
of the posts when properly
placed.
Connect the corners of the
template pieces by driving
two 2 1/2" screws through
the side of the template
boards.
Arrange the template pieces
so that they are positioned in
the exact location of where
the Pavilion will be placed.
The boards with the marking
on the end will be across
from each other. The marks
will show where the other
boards will be attached to
create this box.
2
3
1

4X
4
5
4
TOP
6
TOP
Once the template is in posi-
tion, square the template. Do
this by measuring diagonally
from one corner to its oppo-
site corner, then measure
diagonally between the other
two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the
same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measure-
ments are identical.
Begin by assembling the frame
of the Pavilion structure.
Please note that the Pavilion
kit includes some preassembled
pieces.
Once the template is “square”,
mark the post locations using
the
INSIDE corners of the
framed box on the concrete
slab with a pencil. After all the
post locations are marked on
the concrete slab, remove the
wooden template. Disassem-
ble it and set the 2x4s aside
for use in step 13.
All of the corner posts will
have 2 sides notched. Turn the
notches on the post to the
outside to accept the headers.
The 2 center posts will have 3
sides notched. The unnotched
side will face inside the pavil-
ion.
7

5
Slide your bottom post base
on the post. Be sure to slide
the bases up the post to make
room for completing steps
9-22.
NOTE: For HD High
Wind brackets see bracket
appendices on page 24
before moving on to step 9.
Starting with a corner post of
the longest side and moving to
the center post, attach first
header with two 3 1/2” screws
(not in predrilled holes) to hold
header in place.
Place posts upright within
template. Four cornerposts
in corners, two center posts
in marked “center post” area.
Starting with the center post
from step 10, attach header
with two 3 1/2” screws (not in
predrilled holes) to hold
header in place.
8
9
10
11

Locate two short-side rails and
the four long-side rails. Place
them on the ground below
the beams to which they will
be attached.
Repeat steps 10 and 11 on
opposite side.
Remove template boards from
the posts on the short side.
Attach a template board span-
ning from the two corner
posts on the short sides.
Attach short end headers with
three 3 1/2” screws (in the
predrilled holes) into the end
of the other two beams.
Repeat on opposite side with
the last remaining beam.
6
15
12
13
14

Locate the 12 GRK 4” screws.
Screw three GRK 4” into left
and right side of the header
seam on the center post
(using the predrilled holes).
Repeat on the opposite side
of the pavilion anchoring your
last two beams.
6X
7
PUSH
Fasten rail to bottom of the
header with two 2 1/2" screws
approximately every 16". Do
that with all six rails on the
underside of each header.
Push rail up against the
bottom of the header. Put in
center of post. Fasten to post
with four 2 1/2" screws on
both sides. Make sure the
screws on the braces are
turned in toward the inside
of the building.
Locate 24 8" GRK screws in the
hardware box. Those go in the
predrilled holes at the corners
of the beams. (6 per corner)
18
16
17
19

2
When all posts have two L
brackets on, use a drill with
1/2" masonry bit to drill down
about 1/2" farther than length
of wedge anchor.
Make sure the posts are all level
and everything is square. With
base trim still raised, fasten two
L-brackets on the outside edges
of each post with five 2 1/2"
screws per bracket. Some engi-
neering specifications may
require 4 brackets per post.
NOTE: For HD High Wind
brackets see bracket appendi-
ces on page 24-25 (Steps 2-4.)
Before inserting the bolt, make
sure dust is removed from
hole. Then screw the nut and
washer are on about 1/8”
below the top of the bolt. Next,
insert the wedge anchor bolt
into the hole. To protect the
threads and nut, tap the bolt
into the ground with a piece of
wood as a buffer.
Once the wedge anchor is
down against the bracket, use
a wrench and tighten it. Do
that with all the anchors.
8
X2
1/2”
20
21
23
22

9
PUSH
Install the four 2X12 top plates.
The top plates should mount
close to flush with the inside
post. Make sure that the over-
hang is the same on both sides.
Use two 3 1/2" screws to fasten
the plates to the posts. Do not
cut these without calling.
When all of the nuts have
been tightened down and
the posts are securely mount-
ed to the concrete slab, slide
the post trim down into place.
Fasten tie straps, ST2215, with
1 1/2” screws at every seam
on the top of the plate.
Squarely align the two 2x12
plates forming a right angle. It
is important that the top plate
boards equally overhang the
structure to accurately center
the roof. Fasten the two 2x12
plates together at the corner
with one 3 1/2" screw. Once
you have all four corners
together, put two 2 1/2" screws
down into the header approxi-
mately every 16" all around.
26
27
24
25

10
Set finished sections up onto
plate.
Fasten the marked "Side
Rafters" to a marked "Ridge
Pole" at each "X", keeping
one edge of the rafters flush
with the vertical line and the
top edge flush with the top of
the ridge pole.
Screw the two sections togeth-
er at the top with two 2 1/2”
screws between every rafter.
Keep ends even.
Fasten two 2x4 temporary
props at either end of ridge
pole to hold in place.
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29
28
31
RIDGE POLE
NOTE: If you ordered a square
pavilion turn to page 25 and
follow instructions.

11
Fasten the marked “short
side” rafter to the ridge pole
using one 2 1/2” screw, keep-
ing flush with top of ridge
pole.
Secure the bottom of each
hip rafter with six 3 1/2” screws
into the corner of the plate.
Anchor each rafter to the
plate on the marked “X”s
using three 3 1/2” screws,
staying flush with the vertical
line keeping 1/4-1/2" away
from the edge of the plate.
Assemble top of hip rafter to
ridge pole using two 2 1/2”
screws.
3X
SHORT SIDE RAFTER
35
34
33
32

2
12
Jack rafters will only fit prop-
erly on left or right side based
on upper bevel angle. Fasten
correct jack rafter into the hip
rafter with two 2 1/2” screws
staying 1/4-1/2” in on the edge
of the plate.
Identify your jack rafters. The
jack rafters are shorter than
the side rafters and have a
bevel cut on the upper end.
Measure from the top of the
jack rafter to the side of the
side rafter. Repeat the mea-
surement on the lower end of
the jack rafters before fasten-
ing to ensure equal distance
at top and bottom.
Use 2 1/2" screws to attach
the rafters to the top plate.
You will want to screw one
screw into the top of each
rafter and then another screw
into the side of each rafter.
37
36
38
39

13
Repeat on all four sides.
Install the first piece of roof
decking making sure not to
extend past plate edge.
Board may need to be cut to
length. (At times decking
may need to be spliced on a
single rafter.) Fasten decking
using two 2” nails per rafter.
Securely interlock each piece
of the roof decking, starting
from the bottom and working
up.
Fasten two ‘A23 Simpson’
brackets with 1 1/2” screws
on either side of each corner
hip rafter and one ‘A23 Simp-
son’ bracket at each side
rafter and jack rafter. NOTE:
If you purchased an electri-
cal package turn to page 24
for installation instructions.
40
41
42
43

xxx
Next, drive 2 1/2” screws
every 16” along the entire
length of the fascia board.
Follow these same steps with
the other short-sided fascia
board.
14
Install the corner trim by
fastening it to the beams with
four 2 1/2” screws. 47
Starting on the long side, hold
fascia in place butting the top
of the fascia board against a
square, following the pitch of
the decking. Fascia should not
be lower than the pitch of the
decking; the end of the fascia
should remain flush with the
end of the plate.
Moving to the short side,
hold fascia in place, butting
the top of the fascia board
against a square following
the pitch of the decking.
Fascia should not be lower
than the pitch of the roof
decking; the end of the fascia
should extend out to be flush
with the long side fascia
board.
45
46
44
SIDE
VIEW
Note: With metal roof installation,
fascia should be installed 3/4" higher
than the top of the roof decking.

Ready to install roofing mate-
rials. See appendices for
each roof style.
49
15
Ready to install roofing mate-
rials. See appendices for
each roof style.
48
1
Installing Collar Ties
Your pavilion kit may include collar ties. Collar ties prevent the middle of the main beams from bowing
outwards due to the downward pressure of the roof due to gravity (i.e., the weight of the roof).
Identify the collar ties in your kit. A collar tie is a 2x4 (2x6 for larger sized
pavilions) with the ends mitred to match the pitch of your roof, like this:
For the purposes of these instructions, we will assume you have a 2x4 collar
tie, rather than a 2x6.

xxx
2
16
Fasten horizontal "Roof Lath"
pieces with two 2" roofing nails
at each rafter. Place the first
piece of lath directly on top of
the lowest decking board.
Space each lath board roughly
20-24" apart with the longest
piece placed at the bottom and
the shortest piece at the top.
(Lath boards may need to
be cut to length.)
1
Roofing Option 1:
Installing A Metal Roof
LATH
LATH
LATH
LATH
2
If you have only one collar tie, you will fasten it to the center rafter (skip to
Step 4 on the next page). If you have more than one collar tie, space the
collar ties on the ground evenly along the length of the structure, each
collar tie directly below a rafter.
3Grab a collar tie and raise it up to the interior ceiling of the structure. Push
the collar tie up against the bottom of T&G so that the mitred end of the
collar tie is flush with the bottom of the T&G, and the 4” face of the 2x4 is
flush against side of your rafter.
Fasten the collar tie to the
rafter with six 2 1/2" screws at
each end of the collar tie.
4
Collar Tie
Typically 2x4 or 2x6

17
Install the tin, starting at the
center and moving to each
end. Ensure the first piece is
installed squarely. Keep the
bottom of the tin flush with
the drip edge. Fasten with 1”
screws. The first piece will
have 3 screws at every lath.
Lay out the roof tin.
Install the drip edge over the
bottom lath piece. Cut each
piece to length. Fasten with
1" screws, staples, or nails
every 16".
4
5
Install the ribbing roughly
1 1/2-2" from the bottom of
the drip edge. Do not stretch
the ribbing because the
grooves of the roof must
line up with the ribs.
LATH
LATH
3
2

xxx
Peel backing off of the foam
and apply foam to the tin roof.
Make sure not to go wider
than the hip capping.
2
18
Fasten ridge cap with 1 1/2”
screw every 24” on both sides.
Repeat step 4 on all sides.
Fasten hip capping with 1 1/2"
screws on the tall ridges.
LATH
LATH
6
9
TOP
DOWN
VIEW
7
8

19
To install 1st row of shingles,
turn shingle upside down
with black tar line at bottom
edge facing up and attach to
roof using four 5/8” roofing
nails. Place nails approximately
3” from bottom.
Roofing Option 2:
Installing An Asphalt Roof
NOTE: Before you begin the steps below, install roof paper starting at the bottom. Be sure to overlap 2" as
you work upward. Drip edge will then be installed on all edges of the roof, using a fastener every 16".
Roofing Fasteners
Please note we do not include fasteners for asphalt shingles with our kits. This is because some states
require different fasteners than others, and because some customers have different tools than others
(hammer, nail gun, pneumatic stapler, hammer tacker, etc.).
Please use shallow depth fasteners to fasten your shingles to your 1x6 roof decking. For example:
• 5/8” long roofing nails
• Roofing staples with 5/8” leg and 1” wide crown
These fasteners will certainly be sufficient to hold the shingles to your roof in high storm winds, and will
not pierce the bottom surface of the 1x6 roof decking.
DO NOT PLACE PLYWOOD, OSB (ORIENTED STRAND BOARD) OR OTHER
DECKING ON TOP OF THE 1X6 TONGUE AND GROOVE.
It is not necessary and is too heavy for your structure.
1

20
5
3
Use four 5/8” roofing nails
and attach to roof through
shingle at the center line
marked on the shingle. Do
not fasten below the line or
your fasteners will be exposed.
Start second row, line up
bottom of shingle with the
architectural line on the
shingle below.
Attach second row of shingles
to the roof using 5/8” roof
nails provided or a power
stapler. Do not use long nails
or staples that protrude
through 1X6 roof decking.
Trim corner shingles using a
shingle scissor or utility knife.
When using a knife cut on the
bottom side.
2
CUT SHINGLES
AT CORNER
4