Pergola kits USA WOOD GABLE ROOF PAVILION User manual

Shown above is a 16' x 16' Open Gable Pavilion
Thank you for your purchase of a new Open Gable Pavilion. Depending on the size of your
Pavilion, installation can usually be completed in 1 to 2 days. These instructions are meant to
serve as a guide for people with a base knowledge of general handyman skills. This assembly
requires a minimum of two people to complete.v
WOOD GABLE ROOF
PAVILION STICK-BUILT
ASSEMBLY MANUAL

Before You Begin
Site Preparation
Tools Needed
2
Please always check with your local building codes, they will vary from state to state.
The base for the Pavilion must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab or on concrete
footers, they should be level where the posts will rest. If they are not, it may be necessary to cut the
bottom of the posts so that the bottoms are all level. Other than this, no cutting is necessary. If you
feel that you will need to make any additional cuts, please contact us before doing so. Making cuts
without calling first may make installation difficult or void our warranties.
When connecting to concrete, use wedge bolts, which are included in the kit. If connecting to an
existing deck, a lag bolt and deck screws (not included) will replace the wedge bolt.
The Pavilion does not give the ability to alter the location of the posts. It is important that they are
laid out correctly and double checked for accuracy before permanently attaching it to the base.
It is important that the site is properly prepared before beginning assembly. It is imperative
that the site be level. There are a few choices when installing this structure, the two most
common are to anchor the posts to concrete pad/wood decking or attaching to a concrete
footer or two Sonotubes. Sinking the posts into the ground is not recommended unless it is
called for by your local building codes.
Anchoring the posts to concrete/wood decking, is the most common method and is also the
simplest. Please provide a level concrete or wood decking surface, and then lay aout the tem-
plate on the surface. Mark out the squares where the posts and brackets will go. Line up the
markings that were made and this is where to set the posts. Posts cannot be anchored into loose
pavers or stone. Customer assumes risk if not anchored into concrete or decking joists. This is the
method that will be used for the following instructions:
Please check with the local building codes for the depth required for the footers/concrete
slab. Also if using concrete footers make sure that all of the tops of the footers are level with
each other before starting to build. Contact your Project Advisor with any questions that you
may have.
Hammer drill, hammer, level, tape measure, C clamps, socket set, ladder, circular saw

Notes:
An air-nailer or stapler can be used for rubber or asphalt shingles.
(Air nails and staples not included in the kit.)
There will be a parts list sent with the Pavilion. All hardware is included in each Pavilion kit.
The specific hardware will vary depending on the Pavilion. Please see the parts list for details.
3
The Pavilion kit includes a
wooden template that will be
used to mark the post loca-
tions. Notice that two of the
2x4 boards have a marking
near the ends. Building a box
will reveal the outside corners
of the posts when properly
placed.
Connect the corners of the
template pieces by driving
two 2 1/2" screws through
the side of the template
boards.
Arrange the template pieces
so that they are positioned in
the exact location of where
the Pavilion will be placed.
The boards with the marking
on the end will be across
from each other. The marks
will show where the other
boards will be attached to
create this box.
2
3
1

4X
4
5
4
TOP
6
TOP
Once the template is in posi-
tion, square the template. Do
this by measuring diagonally
from one corner to its oppo-
site corner, then measure
diagonally between the other
two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the
same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measure-
ments are identical.
Begin by assembling the frame
of the Pavilion structure.
Please note that the Pavilion
kit includes some pre-assembled
pieces.
Once the template is “square”,
mark the post locations using
the
INSIDE corners of the
framed box on the concrete
slab with a pencil. After all
the post locations are marked
on the concrete slab, remove
the wooden template. Disas-
semble it and set the 2x4s aside
for use in step 13.
All of the corner posts will
have 2 sides notched. Turn the
notches on the post to the
outside to accept the headers.
The 2 center posts will have 3
sides notched. The unnotched
side will face inside the pavil-
ion.
7

5
Slide your bottom post base
on the post. Be sure to slide
the bases up the post to
make room for completing
steps 9-22.
NOTE: For HD
High Wind brackets see the
bracket appendices on page
21 (step 1) before moving
on to step 9.
Starting with a corner post of
the longest side and moving to
the center post, attach first
header with two 3 1/2” screws
(not in pre-drilled holes) to
hold header in place.
Place posts upright within
the template. Four corner-
posts in corners, two center
posts in marked “center post”
area.
Starting with the center post
from step 10, attach header
with two 3 1/2” screws (not in
pre-drilled holes) to hold
header in place.
8
9
10
11

Locate two short-side rails and
the four long-side rails. Place
them on the ground below
the beams to which they will
be attached.
Repeat steps 10 and 11 on
opposite side.
Remove template boards from
the posts on the short side.
Attach a template board span-
ning from the two corner
posts on the short sides.
Attach short end headers with
three 3 1/2” screws (in the pre-
drilled holes) into the end of
the other two beams. Repeat
on opposite side with the last
remaining beam.
6
15
12
13
14

Locate the 12 GRK 4” screws.
Screw three GRK 4” into left
and right side of the header
seam on the center post
(using the pre-drilled holes).
Repeat on the opposite side
of the pavilion anchoring your
last two beams.
6X
7
PUSH
Fasten rail to bottom of the
header with two 2 1/2" screws
approximately every 16". Do
that with all six rails on the
underside of each header.
Push rail up against the
bottom of the header. Put in
center of post. Fasten to post
with four 2 1/2" screws on
both sides. Make sure the
screws on the braces are
turned in toward the inside of
the building.
Locate 24 8" GRK screws in the
hardware box. Those go in the
pre-drilled holes at the cor-
ners of the beams. (6 per
corner)
18
16
17
19

2
When all posts have two L
brackets on, use a drill with
1/2" masonry bit to drill down
about 1/2" farther than length
of wedge anchor.
Make sure the posts are all level
and everything is square. With
base trim still raised, fasten two
L-brackets on the outside edges
of each post with five 2 1/2"
screws per bracket. Some engi-
neering specifications may
require 4 brackets per post.
NOTE: For HD High Wind
brackets see bracket appendi-
ces on pages 21-22 (Steps 2-4.)
Before inserting the bolt, make
sure dust is removed from
hole. Then screw the nut and
washer are on about 1/8”
below the top of the bolt. Next,
insert the wedge anchor bolt
into the hole. To protect the
threads and nut, tap the bolt
into the ground with a piece of
wood as a buffer.
Once the wedge anchor is
down against the bracket, use
a wrench and tighten it. Do
that with all the anchors.
8
X2
1/2”
20
21
23
22

9
Position the 2x8 plate against the
2x12. (It is important that the
top plate boards equally over-
hang the structure to accu-
rately center the roof.) Fasten
the 2x8 to the 2x12 plate at the
corner with one 3 1/2" screw.
Once you have all four corners
together, put two 2 1/2" screws
down into the header approx-
imately every 16" all around.
When all of the nuts have
been tightened down and
the posts are securely mount-
ed to the concrete slab, slide
the post trim down into place.
Fasten the marked "Side
Rafters" to a marked "Ridge
Pole" at each "X", keeping
one edge of the rafters flush
with the vertical line and the
top edge flush with the top of
the ridge pole.
Fasten tie straps, ST2215, with
1 1/2” screws at every seam
on the top of the plate.
NOTE: ST2215 tiestraps not
needed for pavilions under
16' wide.
25
27
PUSH
24
26
RIDGE POLE

10
Screw the two sections togeth-
er at the top with two 2 1/2”
screws between every rafter.
Keep ends even.
Set finished sections up onto
plate.
Fasten two 2x4 temporary
props at either end of ridge
pole to hold in place.
NOTE: If you purchased an
electrical package turn to
page 23 for installation
instructions.
Anchor each rafter to the
plate on the marked “X”s
using three 3 1/2” screws,
staying flush with the vertical
line keeping 1/4-1/2" away
from the edge of the plate.
30
28
29
3X
31

11
Install the first piece of roof
decking making sure not to
extend past plate edge.
Board may need to be cut to
length. (At times decking
may need to be spliced on a
single rafter.) Fasten decking
using two 2” nails per rafter.
Starting on the long side, hold
fascia in place butting the top
of the fascia board against a
square, following the pitch of
the decking. Fascia should not
be lower than the pitch of the
decking; the end of the fascia
should remain flush with the
end of the plate.
Fasten one “A23 Simpson”
bracket to the side of each
rafter with 1 1/2” screws.
Then anchor the bracket to
the plate with more 1 1/2”
screws.
NOTE: A23 Simpson Brackets
not needed for pavilions
under 16' wide.
Securely interlock each piece
of the roof decking, starting
from the bottom and working
up. Repeat step 33 on the
remaining side of roof.
35
SIDE
VIEW
Note: With metal roof
installation, fascia should
be installed 3/4" higher than
the top of the roof decking.
33

2
12
The long side fascia boards will
overlap the short sides and will
extend out past them 11" (12" past
the top plate). Align the pre-marked
line with the end of the short side
fascia board ends. Attach the long
side fascia to the top plate just as
was done with the short sides. The
long fascia will need to be connect-
ed to the short fascia boards with
2 1/2" screws. Follow this process
until all fascia boards are installed.
Next, drive 2 1/2" screws every
16" along the entire length
of the fascia board. Follow
these same steps with the
other short side fascia board
as well.
Once all the rafters are con-
nected, install the vertical
board of the gable sunburst
design. Make sure it is in the
center of the building. Fasten
with four 2 1/2" screws. Two
on top, two on bottom.
Install the slant pieces. You
might have to cut them if they
do not fit. Fasten with two 2 1/2"
screws per board. (One on the
top and one on the bottom)
36
39
BOTH
SIDES
38
37

13
Install the corner trim by
fastening it to the beams with
four 2 1/2” screws. You will
also fasten the center post
trim pieces with four 2 1/2”
screws on both the inside and
outside header to cover seam.
Now you are ready to install gable
end fascia. These are the boards
that have slant cuts on both ends.
It might need to be cut down to
size. Keep it flush on top of roof
panel and center of ridge beam.
There will be two different
size half-moon trim pieces.
The smaller one goes on top
of the fascia. The larger one
fits on the inside. Fasten the
half-moon trim pieces to all
three boards with one 1 1/2"
screw. Repeat the same pro-
cess on the inside.
Fasten to the 2x4 rafter. One
2 1/2" screw at top and two
at the bottom going into
fascia. Then one every 16".
42
41
43
40

1
14
2
Installing Collar Ties
Your pavilion kit may include collar ties. Collar ties prevent the middle of the main beams from bowing
outwards due to the downward pressure of the roof due to gravity (i.e., the weight of the roof).
Identify the collar ties in your kit. A collar tie is a 2x4 (2x6 for larger sized
pavilions) with the ends mitred to match the pitch of your roof, like this:
If you have only one collar tie, you will fasten it to the center rafter (skip to
Step 4 on the next page). If you have more than one collar tie, space the
collar ties on the ground evenly along the length of the structure, each
collar tie directly below a rafter.
3Grab a collar tie and raise it up to the interior ceiling of the structure. Push
the collar tie up against the bottom of T&G so that the mitred end of the
collar tie is flush with the bottom of the T&G, and the 4” face of the 2x4 is
flush against side of your rafter.
For the purposes of these instructions, we will assume you have a 2x4 collar
tie, rather than a 2x6.
Ready to install roofing mate-
rials. See appendices for each
roof style.
44

Install the drip edge over the
bottom lath piece. Cut each
piece to length. Fasten with
1" screws, staples, or nails
every 16".
2
Roofing Option 1:
Installing A Metal Roof
Fasten the collar tie to the
rafter with six 2 1/2" screws at
each end of the collar tie.
4
Collar Tie
Typically 2x4 or 2x6
15
Fasten horizontal "Roof Lath"
pieces with two 2" roofing
nails at each rafter. Place the
first piece of lath directly on
top of the lowest decking
board. Space each lath board
roughly 20-24" apart with the
longest piece placed at the
bottom and the shortest piece
at the top. (Lath boards may
need to be cut to length.)
LATH
LATH
LATH
LATH
1

16
Install the tin, starting at right
side and moving left. Ensure
the first piece is installed
squarely. Keep the bottom of
the tin flush with the drip
edge. Fasten with 1” screws.
The first piece will have 3
screws at every lath.
Once you have all the tin
installed, hold the gable end
trim in place to mark the upper
end of the trim that will need
to be cut to meet flush with
the other side.
Install the ribbing roughly
1 1/2-2" from the bottom of
the drip edge. Do not stretch
the ribbing because the
grooves of the roof must
line up with the ribs.
The next piece must properly
overlap on the far edge. Last
piece may need to be cut to
size to be flush with the edge
of the fascia.
6
3
5
CUT TRIM AT PEAK
4

17
When complete, repeat steps
6-8 on the other gable end.
Once gable end trim is cut to
angle, attach the trim piece
with one 1” screw into the
fascia board every 24” of the
open gable end. Next, fasten
the top of the same trim piece
with 1” screws at every roof
lath.
8
7
Locate ridge cap. Remove
backing from foam and
attach to the underside of
the ridge cap. Place ridge
cap, flush with previously
installed trim, fastening every
24” with 1 1/2” screws on both
sides.
9

18
Roofing Option 2:
Installing An Asphalt Roof
NOTE: Before you begin the steps below, install roof paper starting at the bottom. Be sure to overlap 2" as
you work upward. Drip edge will then be installed on all edges of the roof, using a fastener every 16".
Roofing Fasteners
Please note we do not include fasteners for asphalt shingles with our kits. This is because some states
require different fasteners than others, and because some customers have different tools than others
(hammer, nail gun, pneumatic stapler, hammer tacker, etc.).
Please use shallow depth fasteners to fasten your shingles to your 1x6 roof decking. For example:
• 5/8” long roofing nails
• Roofing staples with 5/8” leg and 1” wide crown
These fasteners will certainly be sufficient to hold the shingles to your roof in high storm winds, and will
not pierce the bottom surface of the 1x6 roof decking.
DO NOT PLACE PLYWOOD, OSB (ORIENTED STRAND BOARD) OR OTHER
DECKING ON TOP OF THE 1X6 TONGUE AND GROOVE.
It is not necessary and is too heavy for your structure.
1
To install 1st row of shingles,
turn shingle upside down
with black tar line at bottom
edge facing up and attach to
roof using four 5/8” roofing
nails. Place nails approximately
3” from bottom.

Attach second row of shingles
to the roof using 5/8” roof
nails provided or a power
stapler. Do not use long nails
or staples that protrude
through 1X6 roof decking.
4
19
5
Use four 5/8” roofing nails
and attach to roof through
shingle at the center line
marked on the shingle. Do
not fasten below the line or
your fasteners will be exposed.
2
3
Start second row, line up
bottom of shingle with the
architectural line on the
shingle below.
CUT SHINGLES
AT ROOF’S EDGE
Trim corner shingles using a
shingle scissor or utility knife.
When using a knife cut on the
bottom side.

20
6
Also see instructions on
shingle package.
9
Work across then up. Continue
to the top.
7
Start at both ends of ridge
and work toward the center
of the ridge.
8
Last piece will need cut in half
and will bring the corners
together.