Pergola kits USA WOOD PAVILION User manual

WOOD TRADITIONAL (HIP) ROOF
PAVILION ASSEMBLY MANUAL
(Shown above is a 10' x 12' Pavilion)
Thank you for your purchase of a new Pavilion. Depending on the size of your
Pavilion, installation can usually be completed in 1 to 2 days. These instructions are meant to
serve as a guide for people with a base knowledge of general handyman skills. This assembly
requires a minimum of two people to complete.

2
Before You Begin
Site Preparation
Tools Needed
Please always check with your local building codes, they will vary from state to state.
The base for the Pavilion must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab or on concrete footers, they
should be level where the posts will rest. If they are not, it may be necessary to cut the bottom of the posts
so that the bottoms are all level. Other than this, no cutting is necessary. If you feel that you will need to
make any additional cuts, please contact us before doing so. Making cuts without calling first may make
installation difficult or void our warranties.
When connecting to concrete, use wedge bolts, which are included in the kit. If connecting to an existing
deck, a lag bolt and deck screws (not included) will replace the wedge bolt.
The Pavilion does not give the ability to alter the location of the posts. It is important that they are laid out
correctly and double checked for accuracy before permanently attaching it to the base.
NOTE: These instructions are for building a standard, square pavilion. If your pavilion has custom dimen-
sions with two longer sides, this reference point will need to be adjusted appropriately by the builder, as
you complete your installation. CALL WITH ANY QUESTIONS.
It is important that the site is properly prepared before beginning assembly. It is imperative that the site
be level. There are a few choices when installing this structure, the two most common are to anchor the
posts to concrete pad/wood decking or attaching to a concrete footer or two Sonotubes. Sinking the
posts into the ground is not recommended unless it is called for by your local building codes.
Anchoring the posts to concrete/wood decking, is the most common method and is also the simplest.
Please provide a level concrete or wood decking surface, and then lay out the template on the surface.
Mark out the squares where the posts and brackets will go. Line up the markings that were made and
this is where to set the posts. Posts cannot be anchored into loose pavers or stone. Customer assumes risk
if not anchored into concrete or decking joists. This is the method that will be used for the following
instructions:
Please check with the local building codes for the depth required for the footers/concrete slab. Also if
using concrete footers make sure that all of the tops of the footers are level with each other before
starting to build. Contact your Project Advisor with any questions that you may have.
Hammer drill, hammer, level, tape measure, C clamps, socket set, ladder, circular saw

Notes:
An air-nailer or stapler can be used for asphalt shingles.
(Air nails and staples not included in the kit.)
There will be a parts list sent with the Pavilion. All hardware is included in each Pavilion kit.
The specific hardware will vary depending on the Pavilion. Please see the parts list for details.
3
1The Pavilion kit includes a
wooden template that will be
used to mark the post loca-
tions. Notice that two of the
2x4 boards have a marking
near the ends. Building a box
will reveal the outside corners
of the posts when properly
placed.
Connect the corners of the
template pieces by driving
two 2 1/2" screws through the
side of the template boards.
Arrange the template pieces
so that they are positioned in
the exact location of where
the Pavilion will be placed.
The boards with the marking
on the end will be across
from each other. The marks
will show where the other
boards will be attached to
create this box.
2
3

4Once the template is in posi-
tion, square the template. Do
this by measuring diagonally
from one corner to its oppo-
site corner, then measure
diagonally between the
other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the
same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measure-
ments are identical.
Begin by assembling the frame
of the Pavilion structure.
Please note that the Pavilion
kit includes some preassembled
pieces. NOTE: If you ordered
an electrical package see
page 23 for installation
instructions before continu-
ing.
5
4
Once the template is “square”,
mark the post locations using
the
INSIDE corners of the
framed box on the concrete
slab with a pencil. After all the
post locations are marked on
the concrete slab, remove the
wooden template. Disassem-
ble it and set the 2x4s aside
for use in step 13.
All of the posts will have two
sides notched. Turn the
notches on the post to the
outside to accept the
headers.
4X
7
TOP
TOP
6

5
8
Assemble two posts and a beam
on the ground, starting with a
longer beam first. Make sure
your post is square with the
beam.
Repeat steps 7, 8, and 9 using
the other long beam and two
posts.
Attach the beam to the post
with two 3 1/2" screws. Do not
use the predrilled holes on the
beam. Those will be used in
step 18.
Slide your bottom post base
on the post. Be sure to slide
the bases up the post to make
room for completing steps
12-22.
NOTE: For HD High
Wind brackets see bracket
appendices on page 21
before moving on to step 12.
9
10
11
TOP VIEW

Locate all 4 of your top rails. It
does not matter which one you
put in first.
Once all four posts are posi-
tioned at the marks you
made using the template,
screw a 2x4 from the tem-
plate to each of the posts.
Anchor one side to the
other in order to keep it
from falling over.
Raise the connected posts
and beam. Be sure to align
the posts to the marks you
made using the template.
You might need someone to
hold it as you get the other
one.
Set one of your short beams
in place. Attach with three
3 1/2" screws through the
predrilled holes and into the
ends of the other beams.
Repeat this on the opposite
side with the last remaining
beam.
15
6
12
13
14

Make sure the posts are all
level and everything is square.
With the base trim still raised,
fasten two L-brackets on the
outside edges of each post
with five 2 1/2" screws per
bracket.
NOTE: For HD High
Wind brackets see the brack-
et appendices on page 22
(Step 2.)
Fasten rail to bottom of the
header with two 2 1/2" screws
approximately every 16". Do
that with all four rails on the
underside of each header.
Push rail up against the
bottom of the header. Put in
center of post. Fasten to post
with four 2 1/2" screws on
both sides. Make sure the
screws on the braces are
turned in toward the inside
of the building.
Locate 24 8" GRK screws in the
hardware box (if you have a
standard 4 post structure). Those
go in the predrilled holes at
the corners of the beams.
(6 per corner)
7
X2
19
6X
18
16
PUSH
17

2
Before inserting the bolt, make
sure dust is removed from
hole. Then screw the nut and
washer are on about 1/8”
below the top of the bolt. Next,
insert the wedge anchor bolt
into the hole. To protect the
threads and nut, tap the bolt
into the ground with a piece of
wood as a buffer.
When all posts have two L
brackets on, use a drill with
1/2" masonry bit to drill
down about 1/2" farther than
length of wedge anchor.
Once the wedge anchor is
down against the bracket use
a wrench and tighten it. Do
that with all the anchors.
When all of the nuts have
been tightened down and
the posts are securely mount-
ed to the concrete slab, slide
the post trim down into place.
NOTE: If you ordered an
electrical package complete
step 6 of assembly instruc-
tions on page 24.
8
22
23
1/2”
20
21
PUSH

9
Position another 2x12 plate
against the installed 2x12. It is
important that the top plates
equally overhang the structure to
accurately center the roof. Fasten
the new 2x12 to the installed
2x12 with one 3 1/2” screw. Once
you have all four corners togeth-
er, put two 2 1/2” screws down
into the header approximately
every 16” all around.
Install the top plates. Position one
2x12 on the eaves side of the
pavilion. Center the plate so that
both ends fall at the same place
on the top of the post, visually
splitting the post-top from corner
to corner. Be sure the overhang
measurement matches on both
ends. Use two 3 1/2” screws to
fasten the plate.
DON’T CUT
WITHOUT CALLING.
25
26
27
Hold the first short-sided fascia
board in place with the mark
made resting on the outside
edge of the top plate. Also
both ends of the fascia board
should meet flush with the end
of the top plate boards. These
you might need to cut down
if needed.
Install the fascia boards. The
fascia will need to sit 1 1/8" (1
7/8" with metal roof) above
the top of the top plate boards.
Measure up 1 1/8" on the
board and make a mark. Do
this toward each inside end
of each fascia board, and
install the short sides first.
1 1/8”
24

The long side fascia boards will
overlap the short sides and will
extend out past them 11" (12" past
the top plate). Align the premarked
line with the end of the short side
fascia board ends. Attach the long
side fascia to the top plate just as
was done with the short sides. The
long fascia will need to be connect-
ed to the short fascia boards with
2 1/2" screws. Follow this process
until all fascia boards are installed.
Next, drive 2 1/2" screws every
16" along the entire length
of the fascia board. Follow
these same steps with the
other short side fascia board
as well.
28
29
Lift one of the roof panels up
past the plate on the inside
of the pavilion. Once the
long side clears the plate,
you can let it hang freely.
Now repeat this process with
the other panel on the oppo-
site side.
You are now ready to install
the roof panels. Match your
numbers on roof panels
starting with the long side
first.
10
30
31

Raise the second roof panel.
You might have to lower
the prop until they meet at
the ridge pole. Make sure
the ridge pole is flush on
both ends. Fasten them
together with 2 1/2" screws
every 16".
Lift the other panels into place.
Make sure the numbers match.
This is easiest when you push
the panels up from the outside.
Note: For even-sided square pavil-
ions (10x10) the roof sections will
have a flat-sided top. They will also
include a boxed-in frame that goes
between the top of the roofing
sections. A premade roof peak
section will give the roof a point
on the top.
Raise the first roof panel into
place and prop it with a 2x4.
Make sure the panels are at
the corners of the plate.
11
32
35
34
33

2
12
When you have attached all
roof panels together, go up
on roof and take the bottom
t&g board off.
Screw the ridge beams togeth-
er with 2 1/2" screws every 16".
(You might have to push up on
the ridge pole to make it fit
properly.) Repeat this process
with the other side.
Use 2 1/2" screws to attach
the rafters to the top plate.
You will want to screw one
screw into the top of each
rafter and then another screw
into the side of each rafter.
Once all of the rafters are
attached to the top plate,
you can now re-attach the
roofing boards that were
previously removed.
39
37
36
38

1
Installing Collar Ties
Your pavilion kit may include collar ties. Collar ties prevent the middle of the main beams from bowing
outwards due to the downward pressure of the roof due to gravity (i.e., the weight of the roof).
Identify the collar ties in your kit. A collar tie is a 2x4 (2x6 for larger sized
pavilions) with the ends mitred to match the pitch of your roof, like this:
For the purposes of these instructions, we will assume you have a 2x4 collar
tie, rather than a 2x6.
You are now ready to install
roof shingles.
Install the corner trim by
fastening it to the beams with
four 2 1/2" screws.
41
40
13

14
xxx
2
Fasten horizontal "Roof Lath"
pieces with two 2" roofing nails
at each rafter. Place the first
piece of lath directly on top of
the lowest decking board.
Space each lath board roughly
20-24" apart with the longest
piece placed at the bottom and
the shortest piece at the top.
(Lath boards may need to
be cut to length.)
1
Roofing Option 1:
Installing A Metal Roof
LATH
LATH
LATH
LATH
2If you have only one collar tie, you will fasten it to the center rafter (skip to
Step 4 on the next page). If you have more than one collar tie, space the
collar ties on the ground evenly along the length of the structure, each
collar tie directly below a rafter.
3
Grab a collar tie and raise it up to the interior ceiling of the structure. Push
the collar tie up against the bottom of T&G so that the mitred end of the
collar tie is flush with the bottom of the T&G, and the 4” face of the 2x4 is
flush against side of your rafter.
Fasten the collar tie to the
rafter with six 2 1/2" screws at
each end of the collar tie.
4
Collar Tie
Typically 2x4 or 2x6

15
Install the ribbing roughly
1 1/2-2" from the bottom of
the drip edge. Do not stretch
the ribbing because the
grooves of the roof must
line up with the ribs.
Install the drip edge over the
bottom lath piece. Cut each
piece to length. Fasten with
1" screws, staples, or nails
every 16".
Install the tin, starting at the
center and moving to each
end. Ensure the first piece is
installed squarely. Keep the
bottom of the tin flush with
the drip edge. Fasten with 1”
screws. The first piece will
have 3 screws at every lath.
Lay out the roof tin.
4
5
2
LATH
LATH
3

2
16
Fasten ridge cap with 1 1/2”
screw on both sides.
Peel backing off of the foam
and apply foam to the tin roof.
Make sure not to go wider
than the hip capping.
Repeat step 4 on all sides.
Fasten hip capping with 1 1/2"
screws on the tall ridges.
6
LATH
LATH
TOP
DOWN
VIEW
7
8
9

17
Roofing Option 2:
Installing An Asphalt Roof
NOTE: Before you begin the steps below, install roof paper starting at the bottom. Be sure to overlap 2" as
you work upward. Drip edge will then be installed on all edges of the roof, using a fastener every 16".
Roofing Fasteners
Please note we do not include fasteners for asphalt shingles with our kits. This is because some states
require different fasteners than others, and because some customers have different tools than others
(hammer, nail gun, pneumatic stapler, hammer tacker, etc.).
Please use shallow depth fasteners to fasten your shingles to your 1x6 roof decking. For example:
• 5/8” long roofing nails
• Roofing staples with 5/8” leg and 1” wide crown
These fasteners will certainly be sufficient to hold the shingles to your roof in high storm winds, and will
not pierce the bottom surface of the 1x6 roof decking.
DO NOT PLACE PLYWOOD, OSB (ORIENTED STRAND BOARD) OR OTHER
DECKING ON TOP OF THE 1X6 TONGUE AND GROOVE.
It is not necessary and is too heavy for your structure.
To install 1st row of shingles,
turn shingle upside down
with black tar line at bottom
edge facing up and attach to
roof using four 5/8” roofing
nails. Place nails approximately
3” from bottom.
1

5
3
Use four 5/8” roofing nails
and attach to roof through
shingle at the center line
marked on the shingle. Do
not fasten below the line or
your fasteners will be exposed.
Start second row, line up
bottom of shingle with the
architectural line on the
shingle below.
Attach second row of shingles
to the roof using 5/8” roof
nails provided or a power
stapler. Do not use long nails
or staples that protrude
through 1X6 roof decking.
Trim corner shingles using a
shingle scissor or utility knife.
When using a knife cut on the
bottom side.
2
CUT SHINGLES
AT CORNER
4
18

19
9
7
Also see instructions on
shingle package.
Work across then up. Continue
to the top.
To cap the ridge, start the first
capper centered on the ridge
down past the corner.
Place second capper into
place.
8
6

20
13
11
Fasten using two 1” roof
nails per capper. Fasten nail
through the black tar strip.
Leave approximately 5 1/2”
exposed to the weather.
Trim the top.
51/2”
10
12
CUT CAPPERS
AT PEAK
Continue up the ridge using
the same previous steps.
Install cappers in a nice
straight row for a neat appear-
ance from a ground view.
12