Phoenix Model Wallaby Mk2 User manual

Wallaby Mk2
49.5in Span Electric Sports Model 4/500w Motors & 4-6 Channel RC Equipment.
Designed by: Stan Yeo Produced by: Phoenix Model Products
Introduction
The Wallaby Mk2 is a 4/5 channel electric power
sports aerobatic model of simple design that has a
spritely performance and is a bundle of fun to fly.
With a typical 4/500w 3536 size motor the Wallaby
is a delight to fly and has for us brought back happy
memories of the original 1981 design powered by a
Fuji 25 IC motor. The optional flaps are an added
bonus for those who like to play with different
control setups! The Wallaby Mk2 is a very capable
model and can perform all aerobatic manoeuvres
expected is this type of model.
The all wood easy build construction follows the
now well proven path of other models in our range.
Radio Equipment Required
The recommended radio equipment required for
the Wallaby Mk2 is two metal geared micro servos
i.e. Hitec HS82MG or the Ripmax New Power
XL16HM or XL17HMB for the Ailerons/Flaps plus
two standard size servos for the Rudder & Elevator
with a 4/6 channel receiver. For Flapperon
operation a 6ch transmitter and 6ch receiver is
required.
Electrical Power Train
The Wallaby requires a 3536 Brushless Motor
rated at 400-500w and 1000 – 1300 Kv. A 50/60A
Speed Controller (ESC) and a 2200 3S LiPo. The
prototype used a 3536/06 1270Kv motor with a 60A
ESC. 9x6in APCE propeller and a 2200mAhr 3S
30C LiPo. With this set-up the Wallaby is more than
adequately powered with typically flight duration of
10 minutes. If you use a different specification
motor or a 4S battery then a different size propeller
should be used. If you are unfamiliar with model
electrics then please read the articles on our
website www.phoenixmp.com .
Tools / Materials Required
The tools required to build the Wallaby Mk2 are a
modelling knife with spare blades, a 2ft /1 Metre
Straight Edge, a miniature David Plane,180 grade
Wet & Dry sanding block and soldering iron. The
glues used to build the model are white PVA wood
glue, thin Superglue (please observe safety
precautions) and a very small quantity of two part
epoxy. We recommend using a polyester heat
shrink film for covering such as Oracover/Profilm or
the thinner more economic version Easycoat.
Please Note: PVA is the recommended glue for
nearly ALL wood joints, particularly when building
the wing. Also for maximum glue joint strength we
recommend lightly sanding laser cut edges before
gluing.
Building the Fuselage
1. Lightly sand the ply fuselage doublers with 180
grade wet and dry to remove the 'release'
agent. Remove dust with a small brush or
vacuum cleaner.
2. Using a spirit based contact adhesive such as
Uhu or EvoStik glue the ply nose doublers in
position ensuring there is a left and right side.
Motor side thrust and down thrust is built in
consequently the right side is shorter than the
left!!!
3. Mark out the position of formers F2 & F3 on the
inside of the fuselage sides ensuring there is a
left and right side.
4. Cut slot for Rudder and Elevator cable exits as
indicated on plan (Both underneath Tailplane).
5. Glue strip longeron super structure including
triangular support strips in the nose, Wingseat
and ply wing dowel washers to fuselage sides.
6. Lightly sand edges of fuselage side to prepare
gluing surface to receive top and bottom sheet.
7. Join fuselage sides together over the plan
ensuring that both are straight and square.
8. Before removing fuselage from plan fit spruce
trailing edge back-stop, top 4.5mm sheet at
front and rear of hatch and rear top sheeting.
9. Fit Rudder and Elevator control rods. Control
rods exit fuselage on opposite sides. Anchor to
fuselage sides every 100-120mm using scrap
balsa. Superglue in place. Before fixing control
cables check control cables are not binding
and move freely. Tie and glue control rods
together where they cross.
10. Dry fit Undercarriage to ply plate and drill
1.5mm pilot holes for saddle clamp screws.
11. Fit Fuselage bottom front and back including
ply undercarriage plate using PVA glue.
12. Construct Hatch and fit as per diagram.
13. Lightly mark
out centreline
on tailplane
ensuring it is
square to the
hinge line.
14. Glue

triangular strips to base of Fin and glue Fin to
Tailplane ensuring it is perpendicular and
square. If, when glue has set, it is not quite
perpendicular to the Tailplane then slice the
triangular strip on the acute angle (leaning
towards) side and insert a thin cardboard
wedge to correct any inaccuracy. Superglue
wedge in place.
15. Glue Tailplane in place checking that it is both
horizontal and the distances between hinge
corners on tailplane to centre of F2 are equal.
16. Fit Rudder and Elevator servos.
17. Cut Mylar Hinges to size (12mm x 25mm). Trim
corners to stop them digging in and roughen
gluing surface with wet & Dry.
18. Hinge Rudder and Elevator control surfaces.
Do NOT glue until the model is covered.
Building the Wings
1. To protect the plan cover in either thin
polythene or cling film.
2. Join front & back 1.5mm sheeting. Use metal
straight edge to trim for a good joint. The
sheeting has been Laser cut but may require
further trimming due moisture changes in the
wood. Sellotape them together along the joint.
Hinge joint back and insert PVA glue. Place on
flat surface and wipe away excess glue. Run
Sellotape along top of joint. Weight down until
glue set. Repeat for other three pieces.
3. Accurately align bottom sheet on plan and pin
to plan. Note rear of sheet overhangs rear spar
by 1.5mm.
4. Accurately mark position of mainspar on
bottom sheet and using a straight edge glue
and pin mainspar in place.
5. Elevate underside of sheeting at front and rear
with scrap to conform with airfoil profile.
6. Omitting W1 glue wing ribs in position.
7. Glue 6mm strip to front of Mainspar 1mm from
the top. Ensure that it is a snug fit between the
ribs.
8. Glue
together
Wing
Servo
Mount
Assembly
using
PVA and
before
glue sets
fit mount
into servo
bay between W4&5. Consult plan as they are
handed i.e. there is a left and right hand! Push
sides of servo mounts against W4&5 to make
bay ribs use servo mount for
swept
1.5mm ply wing braces.
rvo bay and ribs to
aid final servo installation.
David Plane and large flat sanding
t let it overlap and trim
.
18. When glue is set remove Sellotape.
ge
ing Wing Tip as a
reference. Check for twist.
good gluing contact.
9. Using guide lines on plan glue ribs in place. For
the servo
alignment.
10. Build second Wing.
11. Trim and align root end of each wing panel.
Note the mainspars are straight and not
in either direction. Glue panels together.
12. Glue 0.8mm ply servo lead exit support
washers in place and
13. Fit W1A/B sub-ribs.
14. Thread a string through se
15. Plane / sand wing sheeting back to ends of ribs
using
block.
16. Place Sellotape along sheeting edges to collect
surplus glue. Tip: Do not try to align Sellotape
with edge of sheet bu
with a sharp scalpel.
17. Fit 1.5mm top sheeting taking care to ensure
that it is making contact with both the wing ribs
and the mainspar. Tip: Use masking tape to
help support sheeting whilst glue sets
19. Carefully plane/sand both rear spar and
leading edge to shape. Tip: when using David
Plane set blade at slight angle so that the cut is
thinner on one side of the plane. It helps
king care to align tip end rib with
control thickness of cut.
20. Glue 0.8mm ply end ribs to balsa tips. Again
there is a Left & Right! Roughly shape and glue
tip in place ta
wing end rib.
21. Sand wing tips to shape.
22. Fit centre section trailing edge.
23. Shape Ailerons and cut to length. At this sta
do not make allowance for 0.8mm ply ends.
24. Tape ailerons in position us

25. Using ailerons as a guide mark TE position on
centre section trailing edge. Lightly draw guide
line along TE.
26. Shape centre section trailing edge using
Aileron as a reference.
27. Mark position of aileron control horn. Draw a
line on underside of Ailerons to indicate extent
of shaping required for down going Aileron
relief. Shape ailerons and cut to length allowing
clearance for 0.8mm ply end plates and
covering material.
28.
When complete add 0.8mm ply end plates
using Superglue to both Ailerons and Centre
Section.
29. Cut slot for aileron control horn. Needs to snug
fit. Roughen surface and superglue in position
AFTER covering.
30. Give wing a final sand using 320 grade Wet &
Dry.
Covering & Finishing
1. The originals were covered in heat shrink film
(Profilm/Oracover). This has proved more than
adequate. Should you wish to cover in a
different material please take into account any
potential weight penalty that it may incur and
puncture / tear resistance / repairability.
2. Give the complete model a final sanding with
320 grade Wet & dry. DO NOT use a sanding
block on wing sheeting. It thins the sheeting on
top of the rib and seriously weakens the wing.
3. Before covering vacuum clean the model to
remove embedded dust to avoid ‘pimpling’
when covering.
4. Please follow the instruction for the covering
material being used. Normal procedure is to
tack the material at one end. Tack the other
end and then proceed to gently stretch and
tack along its length before sealing all along
the edges and shrinking with a Heat Gun.
5. Spray wing fairing and motor cowl to match
your colour scheme (rattle can) (Hycote gloss
white is a perfect match for white Profilm).
6. Fit aileron servo output arms in centre position.
7. Superglue
Aileron
control
horns in
position and
hinge
Ailerons
using
strip Mylar
ers in place.
supplied.
8. Centre Aileron servos using transmitter sub-
trim and adjust Aileron pushrods. When
satisfied tape servo cov
9. Fit controls, hinge rudder, carry out final
adjustment to elevator neutral and balance the
model including the wings (laterally).
10. Set the control movements as per the plan i.e.
Elevator +/- 10mm. Rudder +/- 30mm. Aileron
Up 16mm Down 13mm. Full up Elevator,
Landing Flap1 Down 6mm Landing Flap2
Down 12mm. Balance point 65mm +/- 5mm
from Leading Edge. Exponential is
recommended for both Aileron and Elevator
controls. Typically 30%. Landing flap will may
require elevator compensation to counteract
any change in nose attitude when deployed. It
is recommended that a pitch change check is
carried out at a safe height!!
11. If using 2.4Ghz R/C equipment it is
recommended that you re-bind / pair the
receiver to update failsafe settings after set-up
and before flying your Wallaby. Failure to do
this has resulted in a number of serious
accidents. Remember the Transmitter is first
ON and last OFF!
12. A few simple rules for electrics. In flight it is
normal for the battery / speed controller (ESC)
to get warm but if it gets hot then the reasons
could be insufficient cooling, too large a
propeller or the battery / ESC of too low a
specification. For the battery it could be due
poor condition, too low a ‘C’ rating allied to lack
of capacity. To avoid discharging the battery
below the recommended voltage always land
when you notice there is less power on full
throttle. When landing in foliage cut the throttle
immediately to avoid burning out the speed
controller.
Flying
When satisfied the model is set-up and ready to go
choose a suitable site and day to test fly it i.e. wind
not too strong or turbulent. If you are inexperienced
please seek assistance for the maiden flight. The
wing bands should the tight enough to stop the
wing moving in flight yet allow the wing to move if
model lands awkwardly. If set up correctly very little
trimming should be required. The Wallaby Mk2, as
previously mentioned, is a very lively model if set
up with extravagant control throws and is capable
of almost any manoeuvre that could be expected of
this type of model including sustained inverted
flight, inside and out side loops plus blink and miss
rolls. The only real limitation is your flying ability
and imagination!
Happy landings,
Stan
25/10/2013 11:42