Pumpenstein CCM Basic 5 Series User manual

The Unofficial Manual of the Chipley Custom Machine
Series 5 Basic and the
Series 6 Pump Markers
V 1.4
www.pumpenstein.com

I. Table of Contents:
I. Series 6 Marker Schematic
a. Facing Left Page 3
b. Facing Right Page 3
II. Series 5 Basic Marker Schematic
a. Facing Left Page 4
b. Facing Right Page 4
III. Liability Page 5
IV. Safety and Handling Page 6
V. Quick Start Guide Page 7
VI. A Brief Description… Page 8
VII. Velocity Page 11
VIII. Setting up the CCM Marker Page 12
IX. Additional Adjustments to the CCM Marker Page 14
X. Regular Cleaning Page 18
XI. Maintenance Page 19
a. Tools Needed Page 19
b. Grip Frame Disassembly and Maintenance Page 19
c. Chassis Disassembly and Maintenance Page 22
d. Regulator Disassembly and Maintenance Page 29
XII. Pimpin’ your ‘Ride’ Page 33
a. What Not to Buy Page 33
b. What to Do Page 34
XIII. Troubleshooting Page 35
XIV. Series 6 Parts List Page 38
XV. Contact Information for CCM Page 42
XVI. Additions and Changes Page 43

II. The CCM® Series 6 (Facing Left)
III. The CCM® Series 6 (Facing Right)
Beaver Tail
Bolt Pin
VRA or Vertical Regulator
Adaptor
3/16th Allen Key
Pump Guide Rods
Trigger
Detent Covers (x2)
1/16th Allen Key
Grip Frame
Pump
ASA or Air Source Adaptor
Clamping Feed Neck
5/32nd Allen Key Back Block
Timing Hole
1/8th Allen
Regulator
Regulator Adjustment
3/16th Allen Key
Auto Trigger
1/8th Allen Key Bolt
Grip Frame
Can also
come in .45
style.
Control
Bore
Cocking
Rod
Undertravel
Screw
3/32nd Allen
Key
Grip Frame Screws
3/32th Allen Key
Barrel

IV. Series 5 Basic (Facing Left)
V. Series 5 Basic (Facing Right)
Note: All of the other parts are as named on the Series 6. Besides milling, the pump, and the
detent – the Series 5 Basic is a very similar marker.

VI. Liability:
m, are not sponsored by them, represent them, or speak for
es or any
Pumpenstein has no affiliation with Chipley Custom Machine or Datum Precision
Machining. Likewise, we have no affiliation with WGP or the Autococker®. We
do not work for the
them in any way.
Pumpenstein or any of it’s members does not accept any liability for the handling
of these markers, tools, air tanks, or any other item mentioned in this Unofficial
manual. You, the user accept this sole liability when purchasing and using any
paintball marker. We, Pumpenstein disclaim any implied warranti
responsibility for any errors that may appear in this unofficial manual.
If, as the user of the marker, you do not accept total liability for performing any of
the maintenance, assembly, or work performed in this unofficial manual,
Pumpenstein requests that you do not do anything described in this manual. You
are not to use this unofficial manual unless you accept all liability and release
Pumpenstein and all of its current and previous members of all liability through
use. When using the
p doing dumb stuff, and if you do - not only did we tell you so
do not blame us.
any use or misuse thereof.
Simply by using this manual or using the marker in general you release
Pumpenstein of any and all liability associated with its
marker please adhere to all local, state and federal laws.
What we are trying to say is this. Forget you know us, forget you read this
manual, do not try this at home – we are professionals, do not be a dumb ass, do
not screw yourself u
–

VII. Safety and Handling:
A Paintball Marker is not a toy. Any of the tools in this manual are not toys.
Tools and paintball markers should be used only by adults or with adult
supervision. Respect other peoples’ property and when using any paintball
marker, obey all local, state and federal laws. When entering a paintball field,
for the sport of paintball,
fe direction and dry
er, to keep the muzzle pointed downward with a
egulatory information regarding the carrying
ne, and
hould only be used at a supervised, licensed and insured paintball field.
become aware of their rules and regulations.
It is very important to have the proper paintball protection before going to the
paintball field for play. This includes and is not limited to eye, head, throat, and
body protection. All protection used should be designed
e.g. eye gear designed specifically for paintball usage.
Always have a barrel plug in place and keep the safety ON when handling your
marker. When repairing or cleaning your marker first remove barrel and gas
cylinder, then depressurize your marker by pointing in sa
firing. Always treat the paintball marker as if it were loaded.
When handling the marker, always keep your fingers or any other objects away
from the trigger assembly to avoid accidental discharges. Make sure, when
carrying or transporting the mark
barrel-blocking device in place.
Before transporting your marker through public areas, such as airports, or bus
and trains stations, call ahead for r
and transporting of such an item.
Remember, any paintball marker should never be pointed or fired at anyo
s

VIII. Quick Start Guide:
asic or S6 does not come with a barrel 1. Screw barrel onto marker – if your S5 B
– use a barrel with Autococker® threads.
2. Place barrel blocking ‘Barrel Bag’ device properly onto the marker
CAUTION: Always wear paintball approved eye and face protection when dealing
king rod back until it latches into place. You will hear a click when
. Con
with a pressurized paintball marker.
3. Pull the coc
this happens.
4 nect the air source to the ASA (air system adapter.)
Note: Make sure to always get air cylinders filled by authorized, skilled
and knowledgeable technicians for the correct fill limits of each cylinder.
Do not try to refill cylinders by yourself. Do not use cylinders that have not
portant that
This bolt takes a 5/32 Allen key. Clockwise tightens the band to
our ho
been properly maintained or that are damaged. It is very im
caution be exercised when refilling or attaching cylinders.
5. Attach the loader to the feed port of the marker. The Series 6 comes with a
clamping feed neck. This feed neck either has a lever style clamping feature or
an Allen bolt.
y pper.
Note: Use only 0.68 caliber paintballs in your CCM® Series 6. Do not
modify the paint in any way. If I hear you were freezing paint – we are
going to come to your town, find you, bunker you, and then bonus ball
gulations and field
afety guidelines pertaining to use of paintball markers.
you.
Before field use, ensure the velocity is in compliance with field safety
guidelines. General field velocity limits are usually between 250 fps to 300
fps (fps = feet per second.) Your paintball markers velocity should never
exceed 300 fps. Observe and abide by all local laws, re
s

IX. A Brief Description of the workings of the
Series 5 and 6.
A cutaway of a Series 5 Body with Sear Engaged This is the marker cocked with a ball in the chamber.
When you pull the trigger a sear is lowered which releases a hammer (inside the
bottom tube of the marker). This hammer is under spring pressure (you load a
spring when you pull back the cocking rod or pump the marker). The hammer
strikes a valve, which allows gas to flow through the valve, up through the bolt,
and down the barrel, propelling a ball (if loaded) out of the barrel.
Series 5 Cutaway Sear disengaged, ball being propelled out of the barrel.
You must then manually cock this marker. With your finger off the trigger, grasp
the handle under the barrel and move it back toward the rear of the marker.
Pulling the pump rearward forces the pump arm back. The pump arm is attached
to the back block, which moves the bolt and the cocking rod back as well. The
bolt, when it clears the chamber, allows another paintball to fall into the chamber
of the marker.

Marker being pumped – hammer and bolt traveling to the rear – ball ready to drop in breach.
The ball is temporarily held in place by the ball detents installed in your Series 6
marker (they are hidden under the little caps on the side of your marker that say
S6). When the cocking rod (attached to the hammer) allows the hammer to clear
the sear, the sear will catch (with a click).
Sear Engaged, Bolt moving forward ball entering the chamber.
At this point, move the pump forward (away from the rear of the marker). This
will move the bolt forward, which will push the ball past the detents and into the
breach / barrel of the marker.
Sear Engaged, Bolt at rest, ball in chamber.
This is one full cycle of the Series 6.
Note: This marker comes with an ‘auto-trigger’. The auto-trigger allows
the user to hold down the trigger and pump the marker – firing the marker

every time the pump is returned to the starting position. With practice, the
user can fire his Series 6 over six balls per second with accuracy.
The auto-trigger is simply a cam that does not allow the trigger to fire until
the pumping cycle is complete. The cam, behind your trigger, is attached
to the pump arm (via a bolt – that takes a 1/8th Allen key). This allows for
the proper timing of the auto-trigger.

X. Velocity:
CAUTION: Industry approved protective gear (for face and eyes) must be worn at
all times while operating and performing adjustments on this marker.
• Do not insert objects into the space between the cocking block and the main
body of the marker at any point in time. Improper marker treatment may result
in damage to the marker and serious injury to the operator.
• Prior to beginning any work on your marker, check to make sure that all excess
pressure has been released by pointing the marker in a safe direction and
pulling the trigger. This is a necessary precaution because the marker may still
contain pressure even after the removal of the gas source.
• If you are uncertain, unable or do not know how to perform work on the marker,
have adjustments and repairs made by a qualified technician.
To adjust velocity:
1. Every CCM® I have owned has come from the factory set at about 290
F.P.S. In addition, every CCM® marker I have owned has come with the
regulator set at about 300 PSI from the factory. This may not be the case
with your S6. You may want to skip to the portion of this manual titled
“Setting up your Series 6”. However, you also may simply want to go out and
play. If the latter is the case – here is how to adjust your velocity.
2. Pump the marker to the most rear position and hold it there.
3. Insert the short end of a 1/8” Allen wrench into one of the three holes in the
IVG (Internal Velocity Governor). Turning the Allen wrench clockwise will
increase the velocity while counterclockwise will decrease velocity.
4. Movement of the wrench quarter turn in either direction will approximately
yield a 15-20 fps change.

XI. Setting up the CCM® Marker:
If you have not played with your CCM® marker and have just pulled it out of the
box – skip to #3 of this section. For those that have already been playing with
their marker - start at #1.
1) Back out your regulator adjustment screw (3/16th) until the marker starts
hissing down the barrel when you pull the trigger. Turn it up until this leak
stops. Your marker will most likely be shooting about 230 - 250 FPS.
2) Use a 1/8th Allen key to set the IVG in two full turns from the back of the
marker. In other words, set the IVG flush with the back of the body and then
turn it in two full rotations of the IVG.
3) Shoot your maker (wearing proper safety equipment) over a Chronograph
perhaps three times and not the average of the string.
4) Turn up your marker by using the regulator until either you achieve 300 FPS in
this manner (if this is case skip to Step 7) or the FPS will plateau and after a
few more turns starts to decrease again. This is because you have now given
the valve too much pressure and it is closing faster than it should.
5) Remember the point where it plateaued and set the regulator at this point.
With almost every CCM® marker I have owned the 3/16th screw is nearly
flush with the bottom of the regulator.
6) Use the IVG to set the FPS the rest of the way if your regulator adjustments
did not allow you to reach 300 fps.
This is the most efficient setting for your marker.
7) (Optional) If your regulator reached 300 fps before it plateued you could go to
a weaker main spring and re do this procedure in order to have the most
efficient marker. A heavier valve spring would accomplish the same thing.

However, a weaker main spring would lighten your pump stroke. I find the
CCM® main spring is VERY light and I do not adjust my springs.
I have found that 300 PSI is a great place to start with CCM® markers. You
can use a Pressure Testing Gauge or just start low on the Regulator and turn
it up from there. Perhaps even start at 275 psi and make smaller adjustments
to the regulator to get it to plateau at the highest FPS you can.

XII. Additional Adjustments to the CCM Marker:
Sear / Lug:
The lug height controls how far the trigger must be depressed in order to fire the
marker. If this lug is set too high, the marker will not cock because the sear does
not come into contact with the lug. If the lug is set too low – the marker will not
cock or will not fire because the lug is dragging on the grip frame or the sear
cannot drop far enough to release the hammer.
Make sure that when setting your Lug you properly set it for auto triggering. To
do this properly, adjust the lug so that the marker fires (with the trigger
depressed) with a 1/8th inch gap (see picture below) between the back block and
the body of the marker. This will allow for proper firing of the marker and good
air transfer from the valve to the bolt.
A CCM® Series 5 Basic is shown above. The setting is the same for the S6.
To Adjust the Lug:
Insert a 1/8th Allen Key into the top of the marker where you see a hole. This is
an access hole to allow the adjustment of the lug on the bolt. Insert the Allen key
until you feel it stop. If you have air in the marker the Allen Key should fall (with a
little wiggling) directly into the lug. If you do not have air in the marker, you will
need to pull the cocking rod toward the rear of the marker to allow the Allen key
to fall into the hold of the lug.

Timing Hole – 1/8
th
Allen
Turn the Allen key clockwise to lower the lug (allow the marker to fire with a
longer trigger pull – or during auto trigger – later in the cycle) and to the
anticlockwise to raise the lug (allow the marker to fire with a shorter trigger pull -
or during auto trigger - earlier in the cycle).
Lug adjustment shown in cutaway. Lug is at its highest point.
If the lug becomes to easy to turn with the Allen key it may vibrate loose and
cause your timing to change. There is an Nylon Set Screw in the base of the
hammer (inside the same screw hole as the Cocking Rod) that can be tightened.
Take the Sear Lug completely out of the hammer and tighten the nylon set screw
(10/32 Allen Key) until you see the nylon screw intrude into the area where the
Sear Lug goes. Stop there and reinstall your Sear Lug. This will cause the Sear
Lug to drag on the Nylon Screw and cause it to not vibrate loose while playing.

Undertravel Screw:
The undertravel screw (marked by the screwdriver in the picture below) is
essentially only there to stop the Auto trigger and Cam from coming out of the
grip frame.
Pump the marker until you hear the sear ‘click’. Holding the pump in this position
adjust the undertravel screw until it touches the trigger.
This should set the undertravel screw to the proper position.
The undertravel does allow you to make your trigger pull shorter – but if you
attempt to set this too short, you will cause drag on the rear most portion of your
trigger pull. This is because the cam has rotated and is now dragging on the
trigger itself.

Pump Arm:
Ensure that the bolt that attaches the Auto Trigger to the pump arm is perfectly
perpendicular to the pump arm or else you will get binding and marring of the
Auto Trigger arm.
Cocking Rod:
Set the cocking rod so that when you pump the marker the bolt just clears the
chamber (looking down the feedneck) when the marker cocks. In other words,
when you hear the click of the sear catching on the lug the bolt should have just
cleared the chamber allowing another ball to enter the chamber. If this is not this
way, or if the sear catches well beyond this point, adjust the cocking rod properly.
The cocking rod will be Loctite® d (Red). Make sure you have a non-marring vice
and some heat in order to loosen the setscrew that allows you to adjust the
cocking rod. In reality, the factory setting is usually proper. If it is close to being
as described above – leave it alone.

XIII. Regular Cleaning.
CAUTION: Always make sure you and everyone around you wears protection
when you clean the marker or check it for paintballs.
This is the cleaning I perform after every day of play.
1. Remove air source and ensure that all air has been released from the marker.
2. Remove the barrel. Spray a mix of rubbing alcohol, a little dish soap, and
water down the barrel and run a pull through squeegee down it. Finish off
with a swab.
3. Lightly spray marker down with the cleaning mix and then wipe down with a
soft terry cloth. Be careful to clean off the pump guide rods, trigger, and
anything that moves or has parts moving on it.
4. Remove bolt and clean it off. I check to see if there is wear on the bolt. The
delrin bolt can get marred when grit gets into the marker. If this is case I use
a very fine sand paper (1000 grit or above) to lightly take out these scratches.
Let this bolt dry. Do not lubricate the bolt.
5. Remove cocking rod and quickly wipe down.
6. Run a pull through squeegee through the top tube, now empty, of the marker
and finish off with a swab. Use your cleaning mix if a ball was chopped.
7. If I had chopped a ball, I remove the detents and clean those. These are
Spyder® detents and can be purchased at any competent pro shop.
8. Reassemble marker.
9. Every 4-5 days of play I place 3-4 drops of KC Concepts® oil in the ASA, air
the marker up, and dry fire it 10 – 20 times to move the oil through the
marker.
Unless your marker is filthy, this is all that needs to be done after a normal day of
play. If your marker is dirtier than this, or the regulator, valve, or other portion
needs to be cleaned – no more cleaning is necessary.

XIV. Maintenance:
From time to time, it may be necessary to clean or replace worn parts within the
marker. For this, you will need to break down the marker further than the regular
maintenance lists above. This section will be broken into subsections: The Grip
Frame, the Chassis, and the regulator. I will assume the marker has been
degassed, the barrel has been removed and the marker checked for residual air
and paint. Be SAFE!
Tools Needed:
A full set of American Allen Keys.
Autococker® Valve Tool
Spanner (Crescent Wrench)
Q-Tips©
Needle Nose Pliers
Small Socket Set (optional)
Quality Lubricant – I use KC Concepts® Blue oil and Dow® 55 Grease.
NOTE: All of the reference photos currently show the Series 5 Basic. The premise is the
same on the S6
Grip Frame Disassembly and Maintenance:
1. Remove the screw that attaches the auto trigger arm and cam to the frame.

2. Remove the grip screws (4 - 5/64th) and the grip panels and the Frame
Screws (2 1/8th Allen Screws for the Series 5 Basic and 2 - 3/32nd for the
Series 6) that attach the frame to the marker chassis. The screws on the
Series 6 are submerged and thus can be simply loosened a turn or two and
the frame slid to the rear of the marker and removed. The Series 6 screws
are of two different lengths – ensure you replace these properly when
reassembling. Set the chassis aside.
3. Remove the Auto Trigger Arm and Cam from the .45 frame. Sometimes you
can simply rotate the AT arm to remove it - if it feels stuck you will most likely
have to back out the undertravel screw (see below).
4. Series 5 Basic – Pictured Carefully (the sear is under slight spring tension)
remove the sear retention pin. Simply push out the pin using a punch or a
small Allen key.
5. Step Four (Series 6 Frame - Not Pictured): Carefully (the sear is under
slight spring tension) remove the sear retention pin. There is a small grub
screw to remove and then a small pin can be used to push out the sear
retention pin.