Radne Motor Raket 95 User manual

Owners
Manual
ENGLISH

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Revision 5, Februari 2011
2 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 3
Congratulations, you have made a
good choice when you picked our
engine Raket 95.
Now we beg you to read through this
User Manual before you start using
the engine. The manual is an impor-
tant part of our delivery and it is a
proof of our endeavour to deliver a
good and safe product that both you
and we can be proud of.
Raket 95 is a brand new type of kart
engine. It is a two stroke engine, but it
is built on a completely new principle
for scavenging, which is called Dual
Charge. Thanks to this the Raket
95 engine has much less exhaust
emissions than any other comparable
kart engine. Dual Charge also means
a number of other advantages, e.g.
lower fuel consumption and improved
oiling of all bearings in the crankcase.
Should you one day sell your Raket
95 engine, you should pass on this
User Manual to the new owner.
If the User Manual has got lost you
can order a new one free of charge
from Radne Motor AB.
Owners Manual Raket 95
WARNING!
Under no circumstance is it
allowed to change the original
design of the engine without
a written acceptance from the
manufacturer. You should always
use original spare parts. Unau-
thorised changes or non original
spare parts can lead to serious
damages.
Contents
Owners Manual Raket 95 ....................................................................................2
1. Safety ..............................................................................................................4
2. Instructions for handling and charging a Raket 95 starter battery. ..................6
Safety instructions for the use of the battery and the charging of the battery: ....7
Installing the NiMH battery...................................................................................9
3. Instructions for mounting the Raket 95 engine onto the kart. ........................10
4. Starting and stopping the Raket 95 engine. ..................................................11
5. Setting up the Raket 95 engine. ....................................................................12
6. Technical data for Raket 95 ...........................................................................14
7. What do we mean by an engine of Dual Charge model? ..............................15
8. Product description for homologation purposes ............................................16
1. Crankcase .....................................................................................................16
2. Crankshaft .....................................................................................................16
3. Cylinder .........................................................................................................16
4. Spark plug .....................................................................................................17
5. Piston.............................................................................................................17
6. Carburettor ....................................................................................................17
7. Carburettor ange..........................................................................................18
8. Inlet ange .....................................................................................................18
9. Ignition system...............................................................................................18
10. Exhaust system ...........................................................................................18
11. Centrifugal clutch .........................................................................................19
12.Covers ..........................................................................................................19
13. Starter system .............................................................................................19
9. Service tips ....................................................................................................20
1. Lubricating the clutch parts............................................................................20
2. Silencer..........................................................................................................20
3. Servicing the carburettor ...............................................................................20
4. Starter equipment ..........................................................................................23
Split drawing engine ..........................................................................................24
Splitdrawing manual start ..................................................................................26
Split drawing carburettor....................................................................................27
Tillotson HS-319A..............................................................................................27

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4 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 5
1. Safety
1.
Raket 95 engines including accessories,
as supplied by Radne Motor, are only in-
tended to be assembled on a kart and for
the purpose of driving the kart. Any other
use is forbidden unless written approval
has been received from Radne Motor.
Radne Motor accepts no responsibility
whatsoever for anything that may happen
if a Raket 95 engine is used for any other
purpose than that for which it is speci-
cally intended.
2.
A kart that is equipped with a Raket 95
engine can attain speeds at which the
driver is exposed to obvious danger to life
and limb if the kart is handled in an irre-
sponsible manner. Radne Motor accepts
no responsibility whatsoever for injuries
to people or damage to property that may
arise if a kart that is equipped with a Ra-
ket 95 engine, either directly or indirectly
is the cause of an accident or damage as
a result of carelessness or negligence on
behalf of the driver.
3.
During normal use, some parts in a Raket
95 engine become so warm that they can
cause burns to people who come into
contact with the warm parts. Examples of
such parts are the silencer and cylinder. It
is up to the driver to ensure that the kart
is equipped with appropriate protection
so that contact with warm and hot objects
is avoided, and to act in an appropriate
fashion so that such possible burn injuries
do not occur. Radne Motor accepts no
responsibility whatsoever for injuries that
may occur as a result of a person coming
into contact with the hot or warm parts of
a Raket 95 engine.
4.
During the normal use of a Raket 95
engine installed on a kart, there is a risk
for personal injuries that may occur as
a result of body parts or objects being
trapped between, or rubbing against, the
engine’s rotating parts. An example of this
could be getting a nger stuck between
the sprocket on the outbound axle and
the chain that drives the rear axle. It is
up to the driver to ensure that the kart
is equipped with appropriate protection
so that such incidences of contact are
avoided, and to act in an appropriate
fashion so that no injuries of this type
occur. Radne Motor accepts no respon-
sibility whatsoever for injuries to people
that may occur as a result of something
becoming trapped between the rotating
parts of a Raket 95 engine.
5.
A Raket 95 engine is propelled using a
ammable fuel – alkylate petrol or 95
octane petrol. Careless handling of the
fuel can lead to res that can cause injury
to people or damage to property. Radne
Motor accepts no responsibility whatso-
ever for accidents and injuries that may
occur as a result of careless handling of
fuel, for instance when lling the fuel tank,
incorrect mounting of the fuel tank onto
the kart, inappropriate construction of the
fuel tank, a fuel tank made of inappropri-
ate materials or the existence or use of
inappropriate materials in, or with the
drawing of, a fuel line.
6.
Raket 95 is equipped with an electric
starter system consisting of a starter
motor and a starter battery. The battery is
of the NiMH type (Nickel-metal hydride).
Please refer to the separate section in this
manual regarding handling and care of
the NiMH battery that is included with the
delivery of a Raket 95 engine. Radne Mo-
tor accepts no responsibility whatsoever
for accidents or injuries that may occur to
people or property if any battery is used
other than that which is supplied with the
original delivery or as an original spare
part battery.
7.
The driver is responsible for the mount-
ing of the battery, battery box and cables
between the battery box and the starter
motor, in accordance with the instructions
provided in this manual. Radne Motor
accepts no responsibility whatsoever for
accidents and
injuries that
may occur
as a result
of incorrect
mounting of
the bat-
tery, battery
box and/or
the cables
between the
battery and
the starter
motor.
8.
The charging
and storage
of the NiMH
battery should occur in accordance with
the instructions provided in this manual.
Radne Motor accepts no responsibility
whatsoever for injuries to people or dam-
age to property that may occur as a result
of incorrect handling, storage or charging
of the Raket 95 NiMH battery.
IMPORTANT

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6 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 7
2. Instructions for handling
and charging a Raket 95
starter battery.
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions
regarding the handling of a Raket 95
starter battery are an important part of
Radne Motor’s delivery of the Raket 95
kart engine. These instructions contain
information about handling of the battery
and the charging of the same. Before you
may use the NiMH battery it is important
that you read these instructions in their
entirety. If in the future you sell your Raket
95 engine together with its starter battery,
then you must ensure that the new owner
receives these instructions.
IMPORTANT! Radne Motor accepts no
responsibility whatsoever for damages to
a Raket 95 engine that may occur if you
use any other battery than a Raket 95
original battery.
If you have previous experience of lead-
acid batteries then please be aware that
NiMH batteries are radically different
from these. As long as a NiMH battery is
used correctly then it is a very good and
environmentally-friendly source of power
that is far superior to both lead-acid and
nickel-cadmium batteries. However, if a
NiMH battery is not handled correctly and
in accordance with these instructions,
such incorrect handling may drastically
shorten the battery’s lifespan, or else
cause injury to people or damage to
property.
Safety instructions for the use of
the battery and the charging of the
battery:
1.
Read these instructions in their entirety
before you begin to use the NiMH battery.
2.
The handling and care of the NiMH bat-
tery should never be entrusted to children
unless there is a supervising adult in
attendance.
3.
Always check that the NiMH battery is in
good condition every time before using
it. If you see that the battery is mechani-
cally damaged, or if it appears to have
expanded in volume or if electrolyte (a
sticky gel-like substance) has penetrated
the battery, then you should discard the
battery immediately.
4.
A NiMH battery should not be thrown out
with household garbage but should be
taken for recycling in accordance with
your local guidelines regarding the man-
agement of recyclable waste.
5.
A NiMH battery should never be shorted
or exposed to high levels of heat.
6.
A NiMH battery should never be over-
charged. That is why you should always
use the Raket original battery charger that
automatically stops charging when the
battery has reached its full capacity.
7.
A NiMH battery should not be discharged
so that the terminal voltage drops to be-
low 11.0 volts. If you discharge the battery
too deeply then one of the battery’s cells
may be damaged in which case you will
no longer be able to recharge the battery
to its full capacity.
8.
A NiMH battery should not be charged
until most of its capacity has been used
up. At that point the terminal voltage will
have dropped to 12.0 volts. In practical
terms this means that you can start your
kart approx. 50 times before you need
to charge the battery. Try to get into the
habit of charging your battery after you
have started the kart 35 – 45 times.
9.
You should always charge the battery
using the original special charger that is
supplied with the delivery of a Raket 95
engine. The charger is an intelligent-type
charger which means that it initially charg-
es with a high current until the battery
reaches maximum capacity. After that the
charger switches over to trickle charge
mode. If you were to use a charger that
does not have this automatic function
then you would almost certainly “burn-out”
your battery because of overcharging.
10.
Never charge a battery that is warm. Let
the battery cool to normal room tempera-
ture before you start to charge it again.
11.
The time required to charge a battery that
is typically discharged is 5 hours. When
the charger notices that the battery is
fully charged it switches to trickle charge
mode.
Technical Data Raket 95 Battery
Battery type: NiMH
Voltage: 14,4 volt
Capacity: 3000 mAh
Charging power: 1 A, determined by the charger
Charge 5 hours, then maintenance charge
Minimum discharge voltage 11.0 volts
Maintenance charge only by Raket Original special charger
Fuse in the battery cartridge 40 A
Use in temperatures:
Storage 0-50 degrees ambient temperature
Use 0-50 degrees ambient temperature
Charge 0 - 30 degrees ambient temperature
Life expectancy 500 up and discharge cycles
Charger Raket Original special charger for NiMH
Technical Data Raket 95 Battery
Battery type: NiMH
Voltage: 14,4 volt
Capacity: 3000 mAh
Charging power: 1 A, determined by the charger
Charge 5 hours, then maintenance charge
Minimum discharge voltage 11.0 volts
Maintenance charge only by Raket Original special charger
Fuse in the battery cartridge 40 A
Use in temperatures:
Storage 0-50 degrees ambient temperature
Use 0-50 degrees ambient temperature
Charge 0 - 30 degrees ambient temperature
Life expectancy 500 up and discharge cycles
Charger Raket Original special charger for NiMH

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8 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 9
12.
When charging the battery, the charger
should be connected to the charger plug
that is located on the battery box. If the
battery is to be charged once it has been
removed from the box then the charging
process should occur on an inammable
surface. Connect the charger’s positive
terminal to the battery’s positive terminal
and the battery’s negative terminal to the
charger’s negative terminal. If the charger
is connected incorrectly it is most likely
that both the battery and the charger will
immediately and irrepairably damaged.
13.
The battery does not need to be super-
vised during charging. The automatic
functionality of the charger takes care of
any need for supervision.
14.
The battery should not be altered in any
way, for instance by taking it apart and
putting it back together in a different
conguration.
15.
It is not permitted to solder the battery. If
one of the connection cables should come
loose from the battery as a result of care-
less handling then it should be disposed
of immediately.
16.
If a re should start in a NiMH battery
then the re should be extinguished with
sand or alternatively the battery should be
cooled down by using a CO2 re extin-
guisher.
17.
If the battery’s electrolyte should come
into contact with a person’s hands then
the electrolyte should be immediately
washed away to avoid any burns to the
skin. If someone were to get electrolyte
in their eyes then assistance from a
specialist eye doctor should be sought
immediately.
18.
Prior to winter, when you are no longer
using your kart, it is important that you
charge your battery before you put your
kart into storage for the winter. If you
store away your kart in the autumn with
a discharged battery then the battery will
almost certainly be inoperable when you
take out your kart again in the spring. For
this reason you should allow your battery
to remain charging on trickle charge mode
during the period that you will not be us-
ing it.
19.
If your kart is to be stored in cold stor-
age, in other words a storage area where
minus temperatures may occur, then you
should remove the battery and store it
somewhere at normal room temperature.
20.
For information regarding handling of
the charger we refer you to the general
instructions that can be found on Mascot’s
website. Please see: http://www.mascot.
no/
Installing the NiMH battery.
1.
The battery is delivered in a battery box
made of extruded aluminium.
2.
The battery box is to be mounted onto a
console that is in turn to be mounted onto
the frame to the left of the driver’s seat,
using the supplied mounting components.
3.
The start button and the charger plug can
be found on the battery box. In the box
there is also a 40 A fuse that prevents the
battery from being destroyed if a short
should occur outside of the battery box.
The fuse may only be changed for an
identical fuse that can be purchased as a
spare part from a Raket reseller.
4.
A cable leads from the battery box which
should be connected to the starter motor.
There is a plug on the cable that should
be connected to the equivalent plug on
the starter motor.
5.
The cables between the battery box and
the starter motor should be carefully
fastened to the frame by using suitable
cable clips or ties. The cables should
be fastened in such a manner that they
cannot come into contact with any hot or
warm parts of the engine that might melt
the cable casing, nor with any moving
parts that might render holes in the cable
casing.

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10 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 11
3. Instructions for mounting
the Raket 95 engine onto the
kart.
The process for mounting the Raket 95
engine onto your kart can of course vary
somewhat depending on what type of kart
you have. Below we provide some advice
and guidelines that are normally appli-
cable to most types of karts.
1.
The Raket 95 engine is designed to t di-
rectly onto the engine support that already
exists on your kart. You will need four M8
Allen (hexagonal) bolts in order to attach
the engine to the engine support.
2.
Your engine has an engine sprocket with
11 teeth. It is normally a good idea to try
an 80-tooth sprocket on the rear axle,
but then it is of course up to you to test
different settings for different tracks. A
curvy track may require a larger sprocket
= more teeth, while a straight and long
track may require a smaller sprocket on
the rear axle.
3.
The great majority of karts have a holder
for the silencer as standard, and the ac-
companying silencer is suitable for use
with such a standard holder. It comes
with three springs that hold the silencer
against the engine’s exhaust pipe, and it
will require two slightly longer springs to
hold the silencer in the support, for which
you can use the kart’s standard springs.
4.
A holder for the throttle cable can be
found between the carburettor and the
carburettor ange, while a lever with a
holder for the cable can be found on the
throttle shaft.
5.
You need to have a CIK-approved inlet
silencer to be able to drive and race your
kart. There are several different models
available and all are suitable for use with
the ange on the inlet crown.
6.
How you will then fasten the inlet silencer
to your kart depends on the type of inlet
silencer that you have chosen. We recom-
mend that you are careful when it comes
to fastening the inlet silencer since this
normally is required to absorb quite hard
knocks. We can certainly recommend
the use of Radne Motor’s holder (article
number 5208).
7.
When it comes to mounting the battery,
battery box and the connection between
the battery and the starter motor, a de-
scription of how to do this can be found in
a separate section of this manual.
4. Starting and stopping the
Raket 95 engine.
Thanks to the Raket 95 engine being
equipped with an electric starter it is nor-
mally very easy to start. No longer does
one need a strong mechanic who is able
to lift the rear end of the kart in order to
run-start the kart.
1.
Make sure that you have lled the tank
with fuel.
2.
If the fuel line is empty of petrol then take
away the inlet silencer if it is attached,
hold your hand over the carburettor and
give full throttle. Press the start button
and hold it in until you can see that the
fuel is being pumped to the carburettor.
Release the start button.
3.
When you start the engine you should
not apply the throttle, but hold the brake
pedal down in order to avoid the kart from
beginning to roll when the engine starts.
4.
Push the start button. Normally the engine
will start directly. As soon as you hear the
engine ignite you should take your hand
away from the inlet silencer.
5.
If the engine happens to stop then press
the start button again. However this time
you should not hold your hand over the in-
let holes on the inlet silencer. If the engine
does not ignite and start directly, you can
carefully try to give a little throttle. This
may be required in particular if the engine
is cold, but otherwise there is a risk that
the engine will receive too rich of a fuel
mixture.
6.
If you do not succeed in starting the
engine through the method described
then you should check the starter bat-
tery. The battery maintains its voltage as
long as it is charged, but when it begins
to approach the limits of its capacity the
voltage can reduce quickly. Low voltage
leads to less revolutions for the starter
motor and thus can cause problems
starting, especially when the engine is
warm. A fully-charged battery will normally
cope with 50 starts before it needs to be
recharged.
7.
You stop the engine via the short circuit
button that can be found on the battery
box.

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12 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 13
Standard Jetting
L: 2,25 turn
H: 0,75 turn
These are the minimum settings that should
not be lower
5. Setting up the Raket 95
engine.
Your new engine does not require a lot of
setting up. It is essentially only the carbu-
rettor that has varying setup alternatives.
1.
Start with a default setting for the carbu-
rettor. Carefully turn both of the adjust-
ing screws for High Speed (H) and Low
Speed (L) the whole way so that they
are fully closed. After that, open the High
Speed screw (H) 0.75 turns and the Low
Speed screw (L) 2.25 turns.
2.
Next you should screw out the idling
adjustment screw so that it just misses
making contact with the lever on the
throttle shaft. After that, screw in the idling
adjustment screw 1.5 turns. This is now
the default setting for the carburettor that
guarantees that you will be able to start
your engine.
3.
Start the engine. If it stops as soon as you
no longer press the start button, but con-
tinues to run if you carefully give throttle,
then you can try screwing in the idling
adjustment screw by half a turn. Don’t
overdo it however, because the engine
should be able to idle without the centrifu-
gal clutch engaging and thus beginning to
pull the kart along with it.
4.
Now you can drive a lap or two of the
track so that the engine warms up.
5.
Begin the ne tuning with the Low Speed
screw (L). Allow someone to hold the
brake to ensure that the kart cannot begin
to roll, and press quickly on the throttle.
The engine should answer directly and
increase speed until the centrifugal clutch
engages. If the engine hesitates or even
stops then you should test the effect of
slightly increasing the Low Speed screw.
Start with half a turn. When you have
found a setting at which you can apply the
gas and the engine responds immediately
then it is time to move onto the setting of
the High Speed screw (H).
6.
Drive a few laps of the track so that the
engine is really warm. Listen thereafter
to how the engine sounds when you are
driving on the track’s longest straight. The
High Speed screw is correctly adjusted
when the engine begins to splutter at the
very end of the straight. If it starts to splut-
ter any earlier then you should carefully
screw in the High Speed screw one tenth
of a turn. WARNING! Do not overdo it
and screw in the High Speed screw too
much, because then the engine will not
receive enough fuel and as a result not
enough oil, which can lead to piston and
cylinder damage. The High Speed screw
should always remain opened at least a
0,75 turn.
7.
When you have found exactly the right
setting for the High Speed screw you
should check the settings of the Low
Speed screw and the idling adjustment
screw again. You can feel satised when:
- the engine idles easily without pulling
the kart, and you hear the occasional
pinging sound from the clutch but not so
often.
- the engine responds directly when
you apply the gas, both when idling and
when you are driving on the track and, for
instance, have taken your foot off the gas
going into a curve and then apply the gas
again.
- the engine winds up properly on the
track’s straight sections, but begins to
splutter at the very end of the longest
straight.
8.
If you nd after having driven for a while
that you are no longer able to achieve a
correct setup then it may be time to clean
the carburettor. See the section about ser-
vicing the engine.

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Air
Raket 95 Manual - English 1514 Raket 95 Manual - English
6. Technical data for Raket 95
Engine model One-cylinder two-stroke engine of Dual Charge model
Cylinder volume 94 cm3
Cylinder diameter 56 mm
Stroke 38 mm
Connecting rod length 74 mm
Carburettor Tillotson HS 319 a, venturi 17,7 mm
Ignition system Selettra analog
Flywheel Selettra 113,9 mm
Starter system Electric, integrated starter (or Magnapull cord starter)
Starter battery Raket, 14.4 V Nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) 3.0 Ah
Spark plug NGK BPM 8 Y
Clutch Centrifugal clutch metal
Sprocket on clutch drum 11 teeth, type 219
Exhaust system Tuned system with end silencer
Fuel Alkylate or 95/98 octane lead free petrol
Petrol mix 4% of synthetic two-stroke oil
Squisch Min 0,8 mm
Combustion chamber volume Min.11,0 ml
Bearings Original SKF 6203 TN9C3
Sealing rings 17x28x7 sealing lip with Teon coating and dust seal
Idling speed 2500 rpm
Max rpm 12500 rpm
Max power 7,6 kW at 8600 rpm
Recyclable parts in the engine 82 %
Emission values CO and HC According to EPA2 standards
Weight 12.1 kg complete engine (engine, starter battery and
silencer)
7. What do we mean by an
engine of Dual Charge mod-
el?
If one looks at the inlet in the cylinder
one can immediately see the big differ-
ence. The inlet is divided up into an upper
section and a lower section. If one then
follows the channels one will see that the
upper channels go directly into the cylin-
der’s upper section, while the lower sec-
tion of the inlet leads via channels down
into the crankcase, just like an ordinary
two-stroke engine.
Insulating ange with two channels en-
sures that the two streams of air are not
mixed together. As you can see from the
picture of the cylinder, the two air streams
continue each of them through their re-
spective channel into the cylinder.
You may wonder why the air that travels
on the top side of the throttle doesn’t
suddenly stop when it no longer has any
depression to pull it. Well, when it comes
to air it happens to be the case that when
one part of an air mass moves, it pulls the
surrounding air along with it.
When it comes to the operating strokes,
when the piston moves downwards
into the cylinder, a port is opened in the
cylinder at which point the air stream that
is not mixed with the fuel streams in and
rinses clean on the top side of the piston.
The result is that when the mixture of
fuel and air ows up from the crankcase
via the transfer channels it meets with a
clean combustion chamber. Because of
this the combustion is much purer, which
in turn means purer exhaust fumes. Raket
95 has such good values concerning
the content levels of carbon monoxide,
carbon dioxide and hydrogen carbonates
(HC) that it is able to meet the required
emission demands without the use of
catalytic exhaust emission control.
When the piston moves upwards in the
cylinder, in other words during the inlet
and compression stroke, a depression
occurs in the crankcase. It is this depres-
sion that enables the engine to suck in
air through the carburettor. The throttle in
the carburettor divides up the inlet air into
one part beneath the throttle and one part
above it. It is only the air that travels be-
neath the throttle that then sucks up fuel
through the carburettor jet. A rubber inlet
ange sits between the carburettor and
the cylinder. The inlet ange also has a
plate that divides the air and fuel mixture
when the throttle is completely open.
However this is not the only advantage
with Dual Charge. The purer combustion
also means that the fuel consumption
is reduced and that the exhaust fumes
do not smell as bad as in the case of an
ordinary two-stroke engine. Dual Charge
engines are also much cleaner in the
crankcase which has been shown to have
a positive effect on bearings and seals.

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16 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 17
modication whatsoever is allowed. The
crankcase halves should both be labelled
with RAKET.
The sealing rings are “open to choice”, in
other words they may be exchanged for
any other factory make of your choosing
under the condition that the model and
the dimensions are kept the same. On
both sides there should be 17x28x7 with
sealing lip as well as dust sealing lip.
Original sealing rings have a sealing lip
that is Teon coated.
The ball-bearings move on the crank-
shaft but are press tted in the crankcase
and are original 6203 TN 9C3. It is not
permitted to change the bearings’ tting or
placement.
2. Crankshaft
The crankshaft may not be altered in any
way. For instance it is not permitted to
balance the crankshaft by removing or
adding material. The same applies to the
connecting rod, in other words no altera-
tion of any kind is allowed.
The needle roller bearings at either end
of the connecting rod are open to choice
with regards to factory make as long as
the same model is used. This should be
needle roller bearings in a steel basket.
3. Cylinder
8. Product description for ho-
mologation purposes
Raket 95 will be homologated in those
countries where it receives approval from
the local Automobile Sport Federations.
This product description may not be
used as a supporting document during
technical control unless the appropriate
Automobile Sport Federation’s stamp of
approval exists.
The main principle involved is that abso-
lutely no changes or modications may
occur. The engines should be “out of the
box”, in other words exactly as they are
delivered. Below follow some clarica-
tions.
1. Crankcase
The crankcase should have the same
design as shown in the picture.
The measurements that are of decisive
importance are those relating to the part
of the crankcase that exactly encloses the
crankshaft. In this matter absolutely no
The cylinder should be completely original
and absolutely no modication is allowed.
For instance it is not permitted to smooth
out the edges of the transfer ports.
The cylinder should be labelled MAHLE
56 ZK3 and display Radne Motor’s logo
and article number 35085. No other labels
are permitted.
Exception:
If a thread in the cylinder were to be dam-
aged, for instance the spark plug thread,
then it is permitted to make the repair
with a thread kit of the Heli Coil variety.
PLEASE NOTE! It must be the same
thread as the original.
4. Spark plug
The original spark plug is NGK BPM8Y,
but it may be exchanged for another
equivalent factory make. The diameter
of the thread and the thread length, 14x
9.5 mm, must always be the same as the
original.
5. Piston
You may not change to another factory
make of piston and it is very unlikely that
you will come across any pirate versions
of pistons.
The piston should be labelled on the top
with R 35087.
Piston pins, piston pin locks and piston
rings must be original.
On the top of the piston there is an arrow
indicating which side of the piston should
be facing the exhaust port.
6. Carburettor
The carburettor is a Tillotson HS 319 A
carburettor. Absolutely no modications
whatsoever are permitted. The venturi
diameter should be 17.7 mm and the

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18 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 19
diameter at the connection for transition to
the cylinder connection should be 20.50
mm.
Parts subject to wear and tear such as
the diaphragm, gaskets and needle valve
must be original.
The throttle shaft should be an original
Tillotson with a lever for connection of the
throttle cable.
7. Carburettor ange
The carburettor ange should always
be assembled and labelled with article
number 35061.
8. Inlet ange
The rubber inlet ange should be labelled
with article number 35065 and may not be
altered in any way. The dividing plate of
treated Bakelite should be assembled.
9. Ignition system
The ignition system should be original
Selettra and no modications are allowed.
The ignition coil and ywheel should
be labelled with Selettra. The minimum
weight is 390g.
The ywheel wedge should be assembled
and may not be altered.
The picture illustrates the ywheel with
ange hub for manual starting. The hub
should not be removed.
10. Exhaust system
The exhaust system, consisting of cyl-
inder connection and complete silencer,
may not be altered or modied in any
way. The attachment of the silencer onto
the cart is open to choice, but it must be
of such a nature that the original silencer
can be used without any alterations what-
soever.
The exhaust system for Micro has a re-
strictor washer assembled at the cylinder
connection. The restrictor washer has a
diameter of 14 mm.
One can divide the silencer by drilling out
the rivets and replacing them with suitable
screws. When the silencer is divided one
is able to check on the amount of damp-
ing material. This should be done at least
once every season, or when you notice a
change to the sound of the exhaust.
11. Centrifugal clutch
The clutch is an one piece steel clutch
with expandable arms.
The clutch is a security feature and abso-
lutely no alterations or modications are
allowed. In other words it is not permitted
to change the clutch weights or the clutch
springs in order to alter the number of rpm
at which the slip clutch engages.
The clutch should be fully engaged at
max 5,000 rpm.
The clutch drum has a sprocket with 11
teeth.
12. Covers
The covers are safety features designed
to avoid contact with the rotating and
warm parts of the engine, and absolutely
no alterations or modications are permit-
ted. The kart may not be driven without
the covers.
13. Starter system
The engine is equipped with an electric
starter system as standard. The starter
motor should be an original Raket 95.
The engine may even be equipped with
a manual starter system also known as a
Magnapull starter.
This means that a ange hub may be as-
sembled onto the ywheel.

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20 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 21
9. Service tips
Experiences from the previous engine
model, Raket 85, have taught us that a
Raket engine should normally not require
any comprehensive levels of service
during a racing season, since we believe
that a Raket 95 engine will be used no
more than 50 times per season. We do
not believe that it should be necessary to
change bearings, sealing rings and piston
rings several times during a season, such
as is required with more extreme kart
engines. It is of course up to every driver
and mechanic to make their own deci-
sions about what they think is necessary
or best.
The following simple service routines can
however be said to fall into the category
of normal maintenance work:
1. Lubricating the clutch parts.
We recommend that you lubricate the
bearing of the clutch drum. The clutch it
self shall be clean and not lubricated.
2. Silencer
As we mentioned previously, it is possible
to drill out the rivets at the back edge of
the silencer.
When you have done this you can remove
the end of the barrel and thus even the
damping material that is lying wrapped
around the barrel. Assuming that the
carburettor is setup normally and correctly
it should not be necessary to change the
damping material during a season. How-
ever we would recommend a change prior
to the start of each new season.
3. Servicing the carburettor
The only aspect of your Raket 95 engine
that requires regular service is the
carburettor. A diaphragm carburettor is a
quite amazing component that is capable
of operating in chainsaws, cutters and
other testing applications whilst working
problem-free for several years at a time.
As long as you are careful to only refuel
using well-ltered fuel, and always drive
with the inlet silencer attached, then you
should also be able to get through a sea-
son without needing to disassemble the
carburettor for cleaning and control. On
the other hand you must possess the abil-
ity to clean and setup your carburettor. To
that end there now follows a short tutorial
in carburettor service.
The carburettor is a Tillotson 319 A. If we
follow the passage of the petrol through
the carburettor we will be able to quickly
describe the carburettor’s function.
The carburettor has two caps, one made
of metal while the other is mould cast.
Under the moulded cap lie a rubber
diaphragm and a gasket. There is a small
chamber on each side.
One of these chambers is connected to
the engine’s crankcase via a channel.
When the pressure in the crankcase
changes the pump diaphragm in the
carburettor will begin to move. On the
other side of the diaphragm there is fuel in
the other chamber. When the diaphragm
moves the fuel is pumped in and out of
the chamber. Two small lip valves that are
cut-out in the same piece of rubber en-
sure that suction from the tank occurs and
that the fuel is pumped further towards
the carburettor’s inlet valve. The pump
should sustain a pressure of approx.0.5
kp/cm2.
It is quite simple to check if the pump is
working correctly. Take off the spark plug
so that it will be easier to move around
the engine. Ensure that the fuel line is
correctly attached and that the carburet-
tor is sitting correctly on the engine. All
gaskets should be OK. Ensure that the
hose running from the crankcase to the
carburettor is in place. Press carefully (we
emphasise – CAREFULLY) down on the
master diaphragm which you can reach
through the small hole on the die-cut
cover of the carburettor. When you press
down on the diaphragm the inlet valve
opens. Turn the engine around and check
to see if there is any fuel coming from the
tank.
If no fuel is coming then you should rstly
loosen the fuel line from the tank and
blow into the hose. You should still be
pressing down on the carburettor dia-
phragm. You should feel that it is possible
to blow air through the carburettor. If
you are not able to blow air through the
carburettor then you should take off the
moulded cap, because there is obviously
something wrong. Firstly check the small
fuel strainer (this has article number 3043
in the spare parts list). It may be clogged.
After that it is time to focus on the pump
diaphragm itself. It could be worn out, but
that is actually difcult to determine with
the naked eye; however if it has been
used for a while then you should change
it! Remember that one should always
change the gasket when one changes the
diaphragm.
The rule is: The diaphragm should be fac-
ing the carburettor casing – otherwise the
lip valves will not seal!
Now the pump should be working OK,

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22 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 23
which you can check by using the same
method as we have previously described.
If you still – despite everything – are not
able to receive fuel then the needle valve
must be stuck and in that case there is
nothing else to do than to continue. The
pump pushes the fuel forward towards the
needle valve, but it cannot open it through
its own force. The needle valve is held
closed by a spring that operates over a le-
ver. The master diaphragm works against
the lever, which we know from the small
rivet in the middle of the diaphragm. One
side of the diaphragm is in contact with
the carburettor’s venturi. When the fuel is
sucked out through the needle valves, the
amount of fuel beneath the diaphragm is
reduced. This in turn applies pressure to
the lever and cancels the spring’s force.
Now the inlet valve can open and more
and more fuel can ow in – the chamber
beneath the diaphragm lls up and the
diaphragm moves outwards. In this way
the spring closes the needle valve and
maintains a relatively constant amount of
fuel in readiness for the needle valves.
Fuel can nd its way out of the chamber
to the carburettor’s venturi via the H and
L screws. The channels there are so thin
that the fuel will not normally escape
of its own accord but rather must be
sucked out. The shape and placement
of the channels in the venturi decide the
characteristics of the carburettor. That is
however not something that we shall go
into in any more detail here.
Now we can start with the needle valve.
Take away the pressed metal cap and the
master diaphragm together with its gas-
ket. By loosening the small screw that can
now be reached, the needle valve can be
disassembled. Be careful that the spring
does not come loose! Now you should
check the needle valve itself (nr: 25) to
ensure that its pin is totally even – change
it if you are unsure. Check that the seat-
ing at the bottom of the valve appears to
be even and undamaged. Unfortunately
it can happen that the seating sustains
damage in which case the valve will not
be able to close properly.
When you have checked and cleaned
everything it is time to reassemble the
needle valve with its lever. The spring
should not be deformed (you should
always have a couple available to change
when necessary) and the lever should
not be bent. When you assemble the
valve, the part of the lever that has a
fork that ts onto the master diaphragm’s
rivet should lie exactly at the edge of the
carburettor’s rough surface.
Now you should attach a small air pump
with a manometer (art nr: 5054) to the
fuel nipple on the pump side. Drop a few
drops of fuel down onto the needle valve
and pump up the pressure on your pump.
At approx. 1.0 kp/cm2 the inlet valve
should open and after that it should re-
lease air through it down to a pressure of
approx. 0.5 kp/cm2. Now the valve should
be totally sealed! If this test does not
appear to have worked properly then the
question is, what should we do next? The
most common problem is probably that
the valve is not sealed, and in that case
one must search for dirt or pores or else
change the needle valve. PLEASE NOTE!
Leaking gaskets on the pump side will ex-
hibit the same symptoms. If the opening
or sealing pressure is not correct then you
will have to change the spring and lever
until it does appear to be correct.
OK – now the valve is correctly adjusted.
What other faults could exist? The master
diaphragm – maybe?! It is most likely so
that far too many master diaphragms are
changed for no good reason. There are
strong forces at work on the diaphragm.
One should really be able to feel that it
has become stiff before it is denitely time
to change it. Check the gasket (that is
lying closest to the carburettor casing on
this side of the carburettor).
Assuming that you have cleaned the car-
burettor properly and that the High Speed
and Low Speed screws are not damaged,
then there is really not too much more
that can be wrong.
The only thing that remains now is to
check if the engine is difcult to start and
if it refuses to react when the setting of
the L-needle is changed. In that case
there could be dirt under the expansion
cap that is located beneath the master
diaphragm. The fuel from the Low Speed
needle passes through a small chamber
on its way out to the venturi and on very
rare occasions this chamber can become
clogged. In such a case one should bore
a 2 mm hole in the middle of the cap (nr
20) and then pry it away using a sharp
object that one can stick into the hole.
Thereafter you should carefully check
all of the channels running to and from
the chamber and seal those with a new
expansion cap that you must carefully
put in place using a mandrel 8 mm. Now
there should not be any more faults with
your carburettor.
Normally these diaphragm carburettors
are extremely reliable. They are devel-
oped for use with chainsaws and snow-
mobiles. On very rare occasions one may
come across a carburettor that does not
provide satisfactory performance. In that
case you should borrow an identical one
if possible. If you notice a large difference
in the performance of the carburettor you
have borrowed compared with your own
then you should change your carburettor.
It is more or less a practical impossibility
to alter the fuel channels in a carburettor
on one’s own.
4. Starter equipment
On engines that are equipped with a
manual coil starter (or Magnapull starter),
the coil or the return spring may need to
be changed. The basic rule regarding an
eventual change is that the return spring
may never be drawn to such an extent
that it causes a stoppage for the coil when
it is fully drawn. A small amount of “give”
should always exist in the spring when the
coil is fully drawn.

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24 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 25
30550 Sparkplug NKG BPM 7A..........................
3056 Sparkplug cap ..........................................
3093 Mainbearing 6203 TN9 C3.......................
3095 Key ...........................................................
32076 Ignitioncoil 95, 120 Selettra......................
32157 Flywheel 95, 120 ES ................................
35162 Support for starter engine ........................
32162-1Support for starter engine.........................
33158 Flywheel hub 95, 120 ES .........................
35048 Carburettor Tillotson HS-319A .................
35049 Throttle cable support .............................
35053 Exhaustgasket..........................................
35059 Engine cover ...........................................
35061 Sprocket cover ........................................
35065 Inletange in rubber .................................
35086 Piston ring ................................................
35087 Piston Raket 95........................................
35090 Cylinder gasket 0,15 ................................
35090-1Cylinder gasket 0,25 ................................
35091 Needlebearing..........................................
35092 Crankshaft complete ................................
35096 Washer clutchdrum .................................
35132 Exhaust ange Raket 95..........................
35144 Clutch drum..............................................
35147 Needlebearing for clutch 95 .....................
35150 Crankcase ...............................................
35151 Crankcase gasket ...................................
35154 Cover for starter support .........................
35155 Neeedlebearing bendix ............................
35156 Support for start engine............................
35158 Bendix for startengine ..............................
35159 Startergear with clutch complete..............
32112 Startbutton for Raket 95, 120...................
35510 Batteri/start box complete Raket..............
35515 Batterysupport complete ..........................
35517 Clamp for battery support Raket 95 .........
55164 Screw 6 X 35............................................
Split drawing engine
35160 Plug for sensor .........................................
35161 Carburettor ange ....................................
4118 Flywheel nut 60, 95, 120..........................
55153 Screw 6x20 10 pc.....................................
55154 Screw 6x14 10 pc.....................................
55159 Screw 6x25 10 pc.....................................
55161 Screw 6x30 10 pc.....................................
55164 Screw 6x35 10 pc.....................................
6029 Oilsealing sprocket side Teon.................

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3016
3017
3041
3018
3022
3023
3024
3025
3026
3020
3019
3028
35029
3045
3046
3047
3044
3038
3037
3036
3035
3032
3031
3039
3027
3043
3039
3040
Tillotson HS-319A
35059
35205
55156
55392
33138
33134-1
33131
33153
33132 33136
33135
ITEM NO. PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION Snörstart/QTY.
1 35059 Fläktkåpa 35059
2
33134-Linhjul 07- 1
3
33153 Sammansatt 2
4 33131 1
5
ISO 10642 - M4 x 12 ---
12S
1
6
55392-Försänkt
aluminiumbricka 6X20
1
7
35205-Starthandtag
Raket 95
1
8
33138-Startsnöre 1
9
33136-Friktionsring
Aluminium
1
10
33132-O-Ring för
linhjulsaxel 12,1X1,6
1
11
33135 Magnuapull
fjäder
1
26 Raket 95 Manual - English Raket 95 Manual - English 27
Splitdrawing manual start
35059 Aircoat ......................................................
33134 String disc 07- ..........................................
33153 Start boss .................................................
33131 Axle for stringdisc 07-...............................
35205 Starthandle...............................................
33138 Start string................................................
33136 Frictionring Aluminium..............................
33132 O-Ring för string disc axlee......................
55156 Screw countersunk 6x20..........................
55392 Countersunk aluminium washer 6X20 .....
3013 Plate .........................................................
3014 Screw .......................................................
3015 Choke axle ...............................................
3016 Cap...........................................................
3017 Main diaphragm .......................................
3018 Gasket......................................................
3019 Screw .......................................................
3020 Expansion cap..........................................
3022 Screw .......................................................
3023 Axle ..........................................................
3024 Lever ........................................................
3025 Valve ........................................................
3026 Spring.......................................................
3027 Expansion cap..........................................
3028 Circlip .......................................................
3029 Fuel elbow................................................
3030 Tube tting................................................
3031 High speed mixture screw........................
3032 Spring.......................................................
3033 Ball ...........................................................
3034 Spring.......................................................
3035 Low speed mixture screw.........................
3036 Spring.......................................................
3037 Screw .......................................................
3038 Screw .......................................................
3039 Bushing ....................................................
3040 Spring.......................................................
3041 Control plate.............................................
3042 Filter small................................................
3043 Filter .........................................................
3044 Screw .......................................................
3045 Diaphragm Std .........................................
3045-1 Diaphragm plastic ....................................
3045-2 Diaphragm Teon .....................................
3046 Gasket......................................................
3047 Pump cover ..............................................
Split drawing carburettor

Radne Motor AB
Markörgatan 2, 136 44 Handen (Stockholm), Sweden
Tel [phone], Fax [phone]
[email protected]
www.raketengines.com
Your dealer: