Red20Rc R220 User manual

R220 Mini H Quadcopter
&
R220 Pro MiniQuad

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Thank you for purchasing the R220 Mini H Quadcopter!
We hope you have a lot of fun building and flying this miniquad.
REMEMBER
RC Aircraft are not toys! This is a complicated flying machine that
requires skill to build and fly. Whilst the R220 Mini H Quad is a stable
and capable flyer, it is not really intended for new pilots.
Make sure you know the rules for the country you are flying in. If in
doubt, seek help from an experienced pilot.

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The R220 Mini H Quad is supplied in kit form and contains everything you need
to complete the frame:
Top, bottom and belly plates
X4 arms
FPV camera mounting plate
HD camera vibration isolation plate
A complete fixings and fasteners pack
Although quality is our primary focus, if you find a part is missing or broken
contact us at [email protected] and we will get a replacement to you ASAP.

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The R220 is not aimed at beginners so it is likely you already have a pretty good
idea of what you are going to use for this build. As a general rule you will need:
Motors –1806 size, 2300kv
ESCs –SimonK flashed 12A
Props –Gemfan 5030 2 blade
Flight controller –Naze32 Acro recommended
Radio receiver
FPV camera and transmitter
Battery –1300mah 30C 3S LiPo recommended
HD recording camera to capture your exploits!
Motors: RCTimer 1806-2300KV Multi-Rotor Motor
ESCs: RCTimer ESC12A SimonK Firmware Speed Controller
Flight Controller: SpiritFly32 Standard or AfroFlight Naze32
Propellors: Gemfan 5030
Battery: Turnigy 1300mah 3-cell 30C
Receiver: FrSky Delta 8
Flight Camera: Turnigy IC-120NH Mini CCD Video Camera or 1/3-inch
SONY CCD Video Camera (or similar)
Video Transmitter: ImmersionRC 5.8Ghz Audio/Video Transmitter with
ImmersionRC 5.8GHz Circular Polarized SpiroNet Antenna V2
Battery Strap
SMA to SMA Flexible Extender
HD Camera: Mobius Action Camera (Lens B)

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Heat up the soldering iron, you’re going to be using it a lot!
The first thing to do is work out how you are going to distribute power through
your frame. For the prototype we used the Mini Power Distribution Board from
Hobbyking as this is the same form factor as the flight control board mounting
holes so can be easily secured.
Run your wires through the hole in the base plate to keep things neat. You
should be able to sandwich the PDB and wiring between the bottom and belly
plates when you are done.

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Complete the wiring by adding any additional components and your power input
connector.
Here we have added two LED strips to help with orientation and an XT60
connector.

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Mount the four center standoffs to the base plate using four M3 10mm nylon
screws. It is important to do this now as you won’t be able to access the screw
heads once the belly plate is installed.

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Install the belly plate and arms using the M3 10mm steel screws and lock-nuts.
For the prototype we only actually used 8 screws but 16 are provided for extra
security and strength. We have also supplied washers to go underneath the lock-
nuts although using these is entirely optional and can be omitted if preferred.
If you have used a PDB, you can secure this in place using the screws and
standoffs supplied to mount your flight controller.

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Fit the landing gear to the holes in the arms using the 10mm standoffs M3 5mm
& 8mm nylon screws.
Use the 8mm screws to attach the standoffs to the arms and then the 5mm
screws to form the “feet” of the landing gear.

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Attach your speed controllers and the flight controller as shown. The R220 is
designed around the Naze32 Acro controller but any board with the standard
33mm form factor will fit the mounting holes.

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If you are fitting FPV gear. Assemble the flight camera to the mounting plate
using the M2 steel screws and nuts. We have not provided grommets to go
between the board and mount as it is personal preference how you mount the
camera. We found some spare servo mounting grommets worked well here!
If you are using one of the new Turnigy/FatShark micro CMOS cameras you can
mount the bracket directly to the baseplate using an M3 screw and nut through
the central hole that is drilled directly behind the camera mount slots.
We have recently been trying the zip-tie
and coffee-stirrer method of mounting the
FPV camera (see image) as suggested by
the MiniQuad Club.

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Install the camera mounting plate onto the baseplate.

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Attach the four remaining standoffs and then start installing your radio gear and
motors.
We mounted the motors in such a way that we could remove the wires from the
ESCs and install the motors directly. This is highly recommended but you need
to be confident with your soldering iron!
The receiver we located at the back of the frame. We have left the baseplate
solid so that there is plenty of area to mount electronics using double sided
foam tape.
We recommend powering the FPV camera and transmitter using a separate
wiring harness connected to the balance plug of your LiPo. This way you can
isolate your FPV gear from the motors and flight controller should you need to.

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Prepare the top plate by installing the HD camera isolation plate using the four
vibration balls supplied. This can be fiddly so stick with it!
We also chose to mount our video transmitter to the top plate. If placed on the
underside of the plate a little way in front of the center it should fit okay once
assembled.

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Install the top plate onto the frame using the remaining M3 10mm nylon screws.
Remember not to over-tighten the screws –these are a purposely engineered
weak point in the frame. In the event of a serious crash the screws are designed
to break, protecting the plates from further damage.
Use the method of your choice to fix the battery and HD camera in place. We
used Velcro™straps and tape for both.

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The R220 Pro is now available in both a 5 and 6-inch arm version. The 6-inch
upgrade will allow you to use larger motors and 6-inch props for high-speed
flight.
The 6-inch arms have been cut in pairs to increase the lateral strength across the
frame. You don’t need to modify the frame in any way however as the mounting
hole pattern remains the same.

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We use the Baseflight app for Google Chrome to tune our Naze32 Acro flight
controller.
Refer to the documentation that came with your controller to learn the best way
to get it setup and ready.
The PIDs and settings we are using are included on the R220 product page:
http://store.red20rc.org/product/r220-mini-h-quadcopter/
We will keep these up-to-date with the best settings we have found.
Take it easy on the first flights. Fly line of sight and don’t try to fly through trees
and abandoned buildings until you have got a feel for the frame and the
controller.
With the PIDs shown on the product page and the Naze32 Acro in “Horizon”
mode we have found the R220 to be incredibly stable and fast but also able to
roll and flip within its own length!