RedWing RC EXTRA 330 50CC User manual

--Specifications--
Wing span: 89"
Wing area: 1480 sq. in
Length: 84.5"
All up flying weight: 16.5lbs

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REDWING RC 50CC EXTR
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Needed to complete:
Engine- 55-70cc 2-stroke (DLE 55 / PTE 70Twin)
22x8-24x10 prop
Servos- (6) Standard size servos (min 250oz/in)
Batteries- (2) 2000mah 6v min
Radio System (Min 5ch)
Optical Kill switch
(2) power switches
3.5” spinner
Tygon fuel line
Adhesive backed Velcro
Velcro strap
Zip ties
Servo Extensions
Tools and adhesives needed:
Hobby knife
Sealing iron
Allen driver set
Phillips head driver
Adjustable wrench
Forceps
Pen
Low tack Painter’s Tape
5 min and 15 or 30 min epoxy
Petroleum Jelly
Thin and medium CA
Medium thread locker
Drill with bits
Denatured Alcohol
Begin by removing everything from the box
and inspecting for damage or any missing parts.
If there are any damaged or missing parts
please contact RedwingRC immediately.
Before any assembly begins, read over the
manual and make sure you have everything you
need on hand, this will make the assembly go
much faster. It is a good idea to go over all the
seams and shrink any sags in the covering with
a sealing iron set to a moderate temperature
(280 - 300 degrees). - This will be much easier
before assembly and will ensure the seams are
locked down to avoid separation.
From the Pro: Go over all the edges of the color
scheme with trim solvent using a cotton ball. This will
lock the edges into place.

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REDWING RC 50CC EXTR
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Wing Assembly
Start by removing the aileron and all the hinge
points from both wings.
Coat the pivot of each hinge with petroleum
jelly all the way around working the hinge back
and forth to ensure full coverage into the pivot.
NOTE:
Keep clear of
the ribbed
portion as this
will prevent
adhesion of the
epoxy.
You will install the point hinges into the wing
side first.
•Mix a small batch of 30 minute epoxy (enough
to do all the wing hinge points -2 to 4 quarter’s
size).
•Using a toothpick, apply epoxy into each hinge
point bore. Then coat one end of the point
hinge with epoxy to install.
NOTE: Make
sure to align
the hinges by
flexing them
down 90
degrees and
fully inserting.
You should have some epoxy squeeze-out as
the pin is inserted. Be careful to pull the excess
epoxy away from the hinge point and not work
it into the pivot.
NOTE: Excess Epoxy is easily removed with
denatured alcohol before it cures.
From the Pro: To make things easy, use a Q-tip to
clear epoxy from around each hinge point as it is
installed.
•Install all the hinge points for both wings and
set aside to cure.
From the Pro: While the epoxy is curing, it is a great
time to skip ahead and start hinging of the rudder
and elevator halves.
Once the epoxy has cured, you can do the
aileron side.

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REDWING RC 50CC EXTR
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•Mix another batch of epoxy and coat the
inside of each hinge point bore as before. Then
stand out the hinge points, and coat the end of
each.
•Carefully align the hinge pins to the bores as
you install
onto the
point
hinges.
Remove any excess epoxy with denatured
alcohol.
•Ensure the aileron moves freely bevel to bevel
to allow maximum deflection and set aside to
cure.
From the Pro: Use 3 pieces of painters tape to secure
across the hinge line – One on each end of the top
side, and one in the middle on the bottom side.
•Prepare the aileron servos while the epoxy is
curing. Install the grommets and inserts and
secure the extension to the lead at this time.
From the Pro:
Use heat
shrink tube to
secure the
servo lead to
the extension.
•Once the epoxy is cured, install the dual
control horns into the
pre-cut slots of the
ailerons.
•Lightly scuff the glue surface of the horns using
coarse grit sand paper or a rotary sanding tool.

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REDWING RC 50CC EXTR
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•Using the linkage hardware, join the two horns
as shown. Then mix a small batch of 15 min
epoxy and coat the inside of the slots. Lightly
coat the ends of the control horns and insert
them into the slots, angled toward the hinge
line as shown.
•You should have minimal squeeze out and a
small fillet will form at the base of the horns.
Clean up any excess with denatured alcohol.
•Once the control horn has cured determine
the method for mounting the servos you wish
to use.
Option A: Surface mount
Option B: Hatch mount
Aileron Servo OPTION A
•Locate the servo pocket and remove the
covering. Then drop the servo into place and
drill for the servo screws with a 1/16” drill bit.
From the Pro: When removing the covering leave
1/8-1/4” of covering to be ironed down into the
servo pocket. This makes for a much cleaner and
more fuel-proof servo cut-out.
•Remove the servo and thread a servo screw in
and out of each hole. Then apply 2 drops of thin
CA to each and allow the CA to soak in and fully
cure.
•Install the servo with the output to the leading
edge, pulling the wire lead out to the root of
the wing. Center the servo and install the servo
horn pointing toward the wingtip, aligning with
the control horn.

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REDWING RC 50CC EXTR
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•Assemble the control rods to 3.75” length
making sure the turnbuckle is centered with
room to adjust both ends.
NOTE: These are a true turnbuckle and one end
is reverse thread.
• Install the pushrod with the included
hardware.
From the Pro: It is essential that you install the side
with the standoff toward the control horn and use a
small washer on the outside of the ball link. This will
prevent the ball joint from slipping off under load.
Aileron Servo OPTION B
•Locate and remove the servo hatch from the
wing and install the hardwood servo mounts as
shown using 15min epoxy. Use thin CA on all
the other joints of the servo mount
From the Pro: After the glue has cured, drill a 1/16”
hole from the face of the hatch into the hardwood
block. Then use a short screw to secure the block to
the plate. This will ensure that the servo cannot
break loose of the plate under load.
•Next, drop the servo into place and drill for the
servo screws with a 1/16” drill bit.
•Remove the servo and thread a servo screw in
and out of each hole. Then apply 2 drops of thin
CA to each and allow the CA to soak in and fully
cure.

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•Install the servo to the hatch with the output
to the leading edge.
Then center
the servo
and install
the servo
horn.
•Place the hatch into the wing, pulling the servo
lead out to the root of the wing. The servo horn
should be toward the leading edge of the wing
and facing the fuselage, to line up with the
aileron control horn.
•With a 1/16” drill bit, drill for the servo screws
using the pre drilled holes in the hatch as a
guide.
From the Pro:
Use a piece of
tape to mark the
drill bit to help
avoid punching
through to the
top-side of the wing.
•Remove the hatch and thread a screw in and
out of each hole. Then apply 2 drops of thin CA
to each and allow the CA to soak in and fully
cure. Once cured you can install the hatch and
servo for the
final time.
•Assemble the control rods to 3.75” length
making sure the turnbuckle is centered with
room to adjust both ends.
NOTE: These are a true turnbuckle and one end
is reverse thread.
• Install the pushrod with the included
hardware.
From the Pro: It is essential that you install the side
with the standoff toward the control horn and use a
small washer on the outside of the ball link. This will
prevent the ball joint from slipping off under load.

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Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator
•Remove the elevator and all point hinges from
the horizontal stabilizer and start with installing
the point hinges for both elevator halves.
•Coat the pivot of each hinge with petroleum
jelly all the way around working the hinge back
and forth to
ensure full
coverage into
the pivot.
NOTE: Keep clear of the main hinge point as this
will prevent adhesion of the epoxy.
•You will notice there are short hinge points for
elevator.
Correct placement
is on the inboard
end of the elevator
half. The short
side should be
inserted into the
stabilier as this is
done to clear the
stab tube.
•Mix a small batch of 30 minute epoxy (enough
to do all the elevator hinge points -2 quarter’s
size).
•Using a toothpick, apply epoxy into the hinge
point bore and coat one end of the point hinge
to install.
NOTE: Make sure to align the hinges by flexing
them down 90 degrees and fully inserting.
•You should have some epoxy squeeze-out as
the pin is inserted. Be careful to pull the excess
epoxy away from the hinge point and not work
it into the pivot.
NOTE: Excess epoxy is easily removed with
denatured alcohol before it cures.
Once the epoxy is cured, you will install the
elevator to the horizontal stab.

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•Mix a small batch of epoxy and coat the inside
of each hinge point bore. Then stand out the
hinge points, and coat the end of each.
•Carefully
install the
Elevator half
onto the points
and clean any
excess epoxy.
•Ensure the surface moves freely bevel to bevel
to allow maximum deflection with minimal
hinge gap and set aside to cure.
From the Pro: Use painters tape to secure the
counterbalances and along the hinge line while the
epoxy cures.
•Prepare the elevator servos while the epoxy is
curing by installing the grommets and inserts at
this time.
•Once the epoxy is cured, install the dual
control horns into the pre-cut slots of the
elevators.

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REDWING RC 50CC EXTR
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•Scuff the glue surface of the horns using
coarse grit sand paper or a rotary sanding tool.
•Using the linkage hardware, join the two horns
as shown. Then mix a small batch of 15 min
epoxy and coat the inside of the slots. Lightly
coat the ends of the aileron control horns and
insert them into the slots, angled toward the
hinge line as shown.
•You should have
minimal squeeze out
and a small fillet will
form at the base of
the horns.
Clean up any excess
with denatured
alcohol.
•Once the control horn has cured fit the servo
into the pocket of each elevator half.
•Drill for the servo screws with a 1/16” drill bit.
Then remove the servo and thread a servo
screw in and out of each hole. Then apply 2
drops of thin CA to each and allow the CA to
soak in and fully cure.
From the Pro: Swapping the stock servo screws for
socket head servo screws will make installing the
elevator servos much easier.
•Install the servo with the output to the leading
edge, pulling the wire lead out to the root of
the stabilizer. Then center the servo and install
the servo horn.
•Assemble the control rods to 3.75” length
making sure the turnbuckle is centered with
room to adjust both ends.
NOTE: These are a true turnbuckle and one end
is reverse thread.

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REDWING RC 50CC EXTR
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• Install the pushrod with the included
hardware.
From the Pro: It is essential that you install the side
with the standoff toward the control horn and use a
small washer on the outside of the ball link. This will
prevent the ball joint from slipping off under load.
NOTE: It is easier to install the rudder,
tailwheel, and pull-pull linkage before mounting
the Horizontal stabs to the fuselage.
•Install the Elevator servo extensions to the
fuselage. Then, insert the carbon fiber stabilizer
tube to the
fuselage.
DO NOT
GLUE!
•Locate the stabilizer hardware and place
washers as shown below.
•Install the stabilizer halves onto the carbon
fiber tube, connect the servo leads, and secure
using the screws with a drop of thread locking
compound on each.
From the Pro:
Use heat
shrink tube to
secure the
servo lead to
the extension.

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Rudder and Tail Wheel
•Install the rudder to the fuselage using the
same steps from above which you followed for
installing the elevators.
•The rudder should have a tight gap and just as
with the other surfaces, flex the rudder bevel to
bevel to assure full range of travel and set aside
to cure.
From the Pro:
Use painters tape
on each side to
secure the rudder. One toward the top and one
toward the bottom of the rudder across the hinge
line. (Elevator shown)
•Once the epoxy is cured, install the dual
control horns into the pre-cut slots of the
rudder.
•Scuff the glue surface of the horns using
coarse grit sand paper or a rotary sanding tool.
NOTE: Two of the horns will need trimmed to
the proper length as shown.
•Using the linkage hardware, join the two horns
as shown and test fit to make sure they fully
seat in the slots on both sides of the rudder.
•Then mix a small batch of 15 min epoxy and
coat the inside of the slots. Lightly coat the ends
of the rudder control
horns and insert them
into the slots, angled
toward the hinge line
as shown. Do this for
both sides
•You should have
minimal squeeze out
and a small fillet will
form at the base of the
horns. - Clean up any
excess with denatured alcohol.

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•Next, locate the tail wheel hardware.
•The parts will assemble as laid out below - -
•Install the tailwheel bushing to the carbon
fiber mount. Then install the wheel to the wire
using the wheel collar and then secure the
assembly using the upper retainer.
From the Pro: File a flat spot for the wheel collar on
the wire and use medium thread locking compound
to install the setscrews.
•Next install
the tiller pin
into the
rudder. Drill
a 1/8” hole in
the bottom
of the rudder
4.5" back
from hinge
line. Clean the tiller pin with alcohol and coat
inside of the hole in the rudder 15 min epoxy
and insert the knurled end of the pin fully.
•Line up the carbon fiber tailwheel bracket to
the fuse and mark for the 3 mounting screws.
Use a 1/16” drill bit to pre-drill the holes. Then
thread a mounting screw in and out of each
hole and apply 2 drops of thin CA to each. Allow
the CA to soak in and fully cure before installing
the tailwheel bracket to the fuse.
•Install the tiller wire (bend as shown above)
and tighten the setscrew using medium thread
locking compound.

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Rudder Servo and Pull-Pull
•Prepare the rudder servo by installing the
grommets and inserts.
•Drop the servo into place and drill for the
servo screws
with a 1/16”
drill bit.
•Remove the
servo and
thread a
servo screw in and out of each hole. Then apply
2 drops of thin CA to each and allow the CA to
soak in and fully cure.
•Install the servo with the output to the front of
the fuselage
and center
using the
radio.
•The pull-pull cables are pre-installed by the
factory with the crimp sleeves left loose. Install
the ball links to the threaded pull-pull ends for
both the servo and the control horn.
NOTE: Make sure the ball link is threaded in the
center of the adjustment range (about ¾ of the
thread) to allow even adjustment.
• Secure the servo end of the cables first and
install to the servo horn to the servo.

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NOTE: The cables should cross inside the
fuselage as shown
when installed to
the servo horn.
•Next, place a piece of masking tape at the
rudder counter balance to lock the rudder in
the centered
position. The
power on the radio
to lock the rudder
servo centered.
•Install the ball links to the rudder horns and
tighten the cables. Make sure the cable loop at
the servo is pulled properly and the cable is
tight then crimp the rudder end of each cable.
From the Pro: If you make a mistake on the pull-pull
setup and ruin a cable, you can use 60lb-test fishing
leader line and crimps found at your local outdoor
sports retailer as a replacement.

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Main Landing Gear
•Locate the landing gear hardware and
assemble both main gear legs as follows.
•First,
install the
axles
using the
provided
lock nut.
•Then, assemble the wheel and collars to the
axle in the order shown.
NOTE: The inner wheel collar will properly
space the wheel for the wheel pant.
•Next, mark the axle at the outside of the wheel
collar.
•Trim the axle, leaving the mark visible allowing
1-2mm excess to remain and file a flat as shown
for the wheel collar.
From the Pro: Locating the flat on the bottom of the
axle will allow easy access once the wheel pant is
installed.
•Install the wheel to the axle for the final time
using medium thread lock compound on the
setscrews. Then slide the landing gear fairing
into place as shown.
NOTE: The landing gear will be angled toward
the FRONT of the fuselage and the taper of the
fairing is positioned toward the rear.

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•Locate the landing gear hardware and carbon
fiber joiner plate.
•Install the blind nuts into the inner mounting
holes in the fuselage.
From the Pro: To
ensure the blind nuts
stay in place: Use a
drop of CA gel or 15
min epoxy on the
blind nut flange
before installing.
•Then secure the main gear to the fusealage
with the joiner plate following these steps as
shown.
NOTE: The outer bolts are
secured thru the aluminum
support using the supplied
lock nuts. - - use thread lock
when threading into the blind
nuts.
•Next, secure the landing gear fairings to the
fuselage using canopy glue or button head
screws (not included) into the stringers.
•Locate the wheel pants and hardware shown
below.
•Install the blind nuts into the
pre-drilled holes.

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From the Pro: To ensure the blind nuts are fully
seated and stay in place: Use a drop of CA gel or 15
min epoxy on the blind nut flange, then use one of
the mounting bolts and a large washer to pull the
blind nut into place.
•Finally, mount the wheel pants using the
supplied bolts and washers with medium thread
lock compound.
Engine Installation
The firewall comes marked for the DLE 55
mounting pattern. In this build the PTE 72cc
Twin from RedwingRC was used.
NOTE: Motor mounting bolts are NOT included.
•Align your motor’s mounting template with
the centering marks on the firewall and secure
in place with tape.
From the
Pro:
Cutting
toward the center of the template as shown will
make alignment easier and more precise.
•Once aligned, drill the mounting holes with the
proper size bit for you mounting bolts and
remove the template.
•Next, temporarily mount the motor in place to
mark for the throttle linkage, fuel lines, and any
ignition cable routing.

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NOTE: This is the time to test fit the cowl and
ensure no adjustment is needed. Proper
spacing to the spinner back plate is 6 3/4"
(172mm) from the firewall.
--The PTE 72cc Twin requires a 3/8” (10mm)
spacer added to the included standoffs.
•Next determine where you will need to mount
the throttle servo to properly align with the
carburetor. You may find you need to rotate
the carb or modify the throttle arm for proper
geometry.
NOTE: A gusseted mount is included and can be
mounted anywhere in the forward fuselage
using 15 min epoxy. Ensure you do not interfere
with the position of the other components that
will be installed later such as the fuel tank and
ignition.
--For the PTE 72cc Twin the low carb position
requires a lower mounting of the throttle servo,
so it was
mounted
as shown
in the
floor of
the motor
box.
•Determine the mounting position and prepare
the servo while the epoxy is curing. Install the
grommets and
inserts and
secure the
extension to the
lead at this time
if needed.
From the Pro: Use
heat shrink tube to
secure the servo
lead to the
extension.
•Drop the servo into place and drill for the
servo screws with a 1/16” drill bit. Then,
remove the servo and thread a servo screw in
and out of each hole. Then apply 2 drops of thin
CA to each and allow the CA to soak in and fully
cure.
•Before installing the servo, determine the
position of the ignition module and fuel line
routing thru the firewall so that you may
remove the engine and drill all holes needed.

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•Once all holes have been drilled, you may
reinstall the engine for final assembly using
thread lock compound.
•Install the throttle servo and the linkage to the
carburetor.
--The PTE72cc Twin allowed for a short, straight
throttle linkage so we used a ball-link set (NOT
INCLUDED) we had on hand from a previous
model. Control rod and linkage stopper are
included in the hardware.
From the Pro: The throttle arm on the carb and the
servo horn should be of the same length to allow use
of full servo resolution and better/finer throttle
control.
Ignition Module
•Choose a location for the ignition model a few
inches or more away from the throttle servo if
possible.
•Mark and drill four 3/8 inch holes in the chose
position on the motor box for securing the
module with zip ties.
•Secure into position using
sticky backed Velcro and
secure with zip ties.