Sansibaer SPLINT25 V User manual

SPLINT25 V – instruction manual
This is just a short documentation of one way you can assemble your Splint
I'm sure the pics will speak for it selves Good pictures are better than to many
words
The Wings:

At first you need to cut the openings to the longerons so that your pushrod can pass
through to the control horns. For the control horn you need to cut out a slit. The better
tighter it fits to the Control horn the easier it is to put the place properly.
Use this little trick to make all linkages exact the same to get same trows just by gluing in
the fittings as exactly as possible. Once you control horns sit in place tight fix them with
two drips of CA. After that put a nice amount of thickened cotton) slow cure epoxy to
make the horns save as hell. Never forget to sand ad clean Aceton) all surfaces where
you want to get a good bond.
control horn fixed with thin CA. after that glue it in save with thickened slow cure epoxy

The Servos:
In this case we use ultralight 8mm servos just to keep weight. Depending on the style you
want to fly the plane you should use bigger 10mm wing servos. As always please sand
and clean with Aceton the the inside surface of the wing before gluing in the servos with
the frames. Please wrap the servos into foil and then screw them to the frames. Now dry fit
the servos with pushrods and the control horns. If everything fit well put some tape around
the servo bays to prevent the wing bottom from dripping epoxy. Now put the thickened
epoxy on the complete bottom side of your servo and frame just as butter on your
sandwich.

As you can see we didn't use the original servo covers because we wanted a complete flat
surface to get the best possible aerodynamic shape.

The Fuselage
Finding the needed weight in the nose:
Depending on the Layup Version the Bird needs more or less lead. Stick your finished
wings to the fuselage. Dry fit all all needed rc components incl. battery into the fuse. Then
take your “CG machine” and set it to 95mm. Now put your Glider onto the CG scale and
put everything onto your scale which needs to set to zero. And now you just need to press
the nose down until the plane sits in good realistic flying angle. Now your scale shows you
how much lead is needed. I prefer to build a foam cone that fits perfect into the gliders
nose. Stick this cone into moist sand. Then pure liquid lead into the gap. Please be careful
of sparkling hot lead. Use safety glasses and gloves. Use a little less weight you've
measured before. You can fine balance the plane with small pieces of lead later.
Now it's time to prepare your servo tray for personal benefit. When you finished your
cutting screw in your servos and bring the tray in place so that everything fits nice and
snug. Once you are happy with it fix it with some drips of CA and put the servos away.
Make sure you have sanded and cleaned everything before. Now put a rope of thickened
slow cure epoxy into the corners and then layer a rest piece of 64g glass fabric with thin
epoxy resin.
Now go to bed and have rest. Tomorrow you can gut the fabric away from the borders.

The V Tail
The Jarvis comes with some Control Horns made from aluminium. you have to grind them
a little so that these parts fit perfect into the control surfaces of the V tail. You also need to
file a little more space into the control surfaces. Assemble the aluminium parts with ball
linkages as shown in the pictures. Then glue them to the Tailplanes just as shown in the
pictures.

The Settings:
CG: 95 mm from leading edge
Elevator:
max 10 mm up 10 mm down (10mm are really huge throws I think with 7 up and down you will be
fine)
Rudder:3
See elevator but try to program some differential for a smother rudder authority
Ailerons:
15 mm up (or more if you like) 5-8 mm down (or more if you like)
Butterfly:3
Ailerons: 5-15 mm up3 depending on what you like
Flaps: 60° - 80°
down3Elevator mix to Flaps: 6mm down