SMART RL22 Setup guide

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
1/16
Number of work units required (1WU = 5 minutes = EUR 6.00 net):
11
A. Removing the belt guard (only on models with belt guard)
B. Reducing the belt tension
C. Removing the belt guide
D. Removing the rear wheel
E. Removing the belt pulley
F. Installing the belt pulley
G. Installing the rear wheel
H. Aligning the mudguard stays
I. Aligning the belt
J. Adjusting the belt tension
K. Installing the belt guide
L. Adjusting the shift mechanism
M. Aligning the brake caliper
N. Installing the belt guard (only on models with belt guard)
Required tools/material
Item number (Retailworld)
2 x box wrench/open end wrench, size 10
-
Torque driver 1-5Nm
AZK00889
Torque Vario 3-15Nm
AZK00886
Torque Vario 22 Nm, 35 Nm
-
Eco Tension Tester
AZK00880
Grease
-
Open end wrench, size 15
-
Allen wrench, size 2.5, 5, 6
-
Assembly stand
AZK00893
Snap ring pliers
-
T20, T25 Torx wrench
-
T25 angled Torx wrench
-
Transport lock
AZK00879
Warning
Possible vehicle damage
Tip,
info
Always remove the battery from the frame before performing repair and maintenance work on electrical components and
on the rear wheel.
The basic requirement for proper and low-wear operation of the belt drive is a correctly adjusted belt tension.
If the tension of the belt is too low and the load too high, the belt can skip on the teeth of the rear belt pulley. Under
certain circumstances this can cause damage to the carbon fiber elements, resulting in irreparable damage to the belt. If
the belt has skipped, it should be replaced preemptively to minimize the risk of the belt breaking during operation.
If the tension of the belt is too high, bearings and seals inside the rear wheel hub could be damaged. Also, the system
will operate with noticeable resistance and will wear out more quickly.
The carbon fibers can withstand high tensile forces, but they are sensitive to bending loads, shearing forces, nicks and
impacts. Even though the carbon fibers in the belt are sheathed, the utmost care is necessary when handling the Carbon
Drive. All the points listed below can cause damage to the carbon fibers inside the drive belt. A drive belt which has been
damaged in this way could snap suddenly and unexpectedly under load while cycling. On no account should a damaged
drive belt be reused.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
2/16
The following movements must be avoided at all costs when handling the drive belt:
Kinking it
Twisting it
Bending it against its curvature
Turning it inside out
Lashing or tying it together with a cable tie or cord
Using it as a wrench
Installing the drive belt under tension with a lever

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
3/16
Installing the drive belt under tension by turning the crankset
To rule out the possibility of the belt skipping on the rear belt pulley, a guide is
installed on the dropout of your smart ebike. This ensures that the belt always
remains meshed with the belt pulley. The guide can be moved in the slot in the
dropout after slackening the mounting bolt. In normal operation, the distance
between the belt and the guide is 1 –1.5 mm.
A. Removing the belt guard (only on models with belt guard)
1.
Undo the two rear bolts of the kickstand plate using a size 5 Allen wrench.
2.
Undo the bolt on the mounting bracket of the belt guard on the rear stay using a T25
angled Torx wrench.
3. L
Undo the bolt on the battery nest using a T25 Torx wrench.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
4/16
B. Reducing the belt tension
In order to allow the belt to be removed from the belt pulleys without tension, the distance between the spindle of the
bottom bracket and the rear axle must be reduced. To do this, use the horizontally adjustable dropouts of the ebike.
4.
Undo the bolts at the dropouts on both sides of the ebike using a size 6 Allen
wrench (2 bolts on the right, 3 bolts on the left).
5.
First undo the nuts for axial adjustment on both sides of the ebike using a size 10
open end wrench while countering the adjusting bolt with the second size 10 open
end wrench. Then loosen the adjusting bolt too.
6.
Push the dropouts towards the front in the slot of the frame. To do this, pull the rear
wheel towards the front while bracing yourself against the frame with your other
hand.
C. Removing the belt guide
7.
Undo the bolt of the belt guide at the right dropout using a size 5 Allen wrench and
remove it.
D. Removing the rear wheel
Always remove the battery from the frame before performing repair and
maintenance work on the rear wheel.
8.
Turn the twist grip to 1st gear.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
5/16
9.
Separate the connection between the shift cable and the rear wheel hub on the right
chain stay by pressing the tab on the locating sleeve and pulling the sleeve off the
threaded element.
CAUTION: When REMOVING the rear wheel, separate the communication
connector first, and then the power connector!
10.
Cut the end cap off the shift cable using side cutting pliers.
11.
Loosen the grub screw using a size 2.5 Allen wrench so that the shift cable can be
pulled out of the plastic sleeve.
12.
Disconnect the data cable (round connector) on the left chain stay from the motor.
To undo the catch of the connector, push the plastic sleeve on the jack in the
opposite direction to the printed arrow.
13.
Disconnect the power cable (flat, oval connector) on the left chain stay from the
motor and release both cables from the cable guide.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
6/16
14.
Carefully press the belt off the rear belt pulley first, and then off the front belt
pulley.
Alternatively, push the lower span of the belt carefully towards the ebike so that it runs off the front belt pulley when the
crank is turned backwards.
Always observe the notes on handling the belt at the beginning of this repair guide.
In the next step, hold onto the rear wheel firmly so that it does not accidentally fall out of the frame.
15.
Undo the nuts on the rear wheel axle using a size 15 open end wrench. The rear
wheel can now be removed downwards from the dropouts.
16.
Push the transport lock between the brake pads.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
7/16
E. Removing the belt pulley
17.
Slightly grease the belt pulley mount.
18.
Take off the spacer ring and the old belt pulley.
On older versions, the spacer ring may also be installed behind the belt pulley.
19.
Clean any dirt off the belt pulley mount if necessary.
F. Installing the belt pulley
20.
Slightly grease the belt pulley mount.
21.
Fit the belt pulley on the mount.
22.
Fit the spacer ring on the mount. The collar should point towards the belt pulley for
centering purposes.
On older versions of the belt pulley, the spacer ring may also be installed behind the belt pulley.
23.
Secure the parts with a snap ring. Check that the snap ring is seated properly.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
8/16
G. Installing the rear wheel
24.
Remove the transport lock from the rear brake caliper.
Hang the belt behind the mounting of the belt guide while you are inserting the rear
wheel into the dropouts. This will prevent you from trapping the belt accidentally.
25.
Guide the rear wheel into the dropouts. Take care not to crush the belt. Also make
sure that the anti-twist lock of the tooth lock washer is correctly aligned relative to
the dropout. The brake disc must be inserted between the brake pads.
26.
When the axle is seated all the way in the dropouts on both sides, tighten the axle
nuts to a torque of 35 Nm.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
9/16
27.
Hang the belt beside the rear belt pulley at first, and then fit it onto the front belt
pulley.
28.
Carefully guide the belt onto the rear belt pulley.
29.
Feed the cables through the cable guide and connect first the power cable and then
the data cable to the motor.
H. Aligning the mudguard stays
When changing to a belt pulley with a different number of teeth, in may be necessary to realign the mudguard. If however,
after installing the rear wheel, the mudguard is aligned uniformly and does not touch the wheel, continue with chapter I.
30.
Undo the bolts connecting the mudguard to the frame with a T25 Torx wrench and
align the mudguard to the rear wheel. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 2 Nm.
31.
Undo the clamping bolts on the mudguard stays using a T20 Torx wrench.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
10/16
32.
The mudguard stays can be adjusted to fit the wheel by pulling them out or pushing
them in.
33.
Tighten the clamping bolts to a torque of 1 Nm.
If a luggage rack is installed on the ebike, it may be necessary to move the mount
for the mudguard stay to below the load surface of the luggage rack. To do so,
loosen the clamping bolts with an Allen wrench (size 2.5) to be able to move the
hook.
Please also note that it may be necessary to adjust the position of the M8 bolts in
the elongated hole of the luggage rack mount at the dropouts.
Note that it may be necessary to adjust the visible length of the motor and data
cable as well as the brake line. To do so, loosen the bolts at the cable outlet of the
left rear stay with a T25 Torx wrench. Carefully, either pull the cable out of the
frame or push it in. Then retighten the bolts to a torque of 2 Nm.
Return the disassembled (unworn) belt pulley to the customer if the belt pulley will
be replaced again at a later date.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
11/16
I. Aligning the belt
34.
Turn the crank forwards and backwards 10 - 15 times and watch the line that the
belt follows. The belt should only slightly touch the side stop (flange) of the rear
belt pulley or it should have a gap of no more than approx. 1 mm. A constant
distance of 0.5 mm is ideal.
35.
Tightening the axial adjustment bolt at the dropouts on the drive side or loosening
on the opposite side moves the line of the belt closer to the side stop (flange) of the
rear belt pulley. Align the rear wheel so that the belt follows the correct line.
36.
Turn the crank again, check the line of the belt and readjust it if necessary. Repeat
this step until the line of the belt is correctly adjusted. Always observe the required
belt tension.
J. Adjusting the belt tension
37.
Use the Eco Tension Tester to set the required belt tension exactly. To do this, hang
the weight from the upper span of the belt halfway between the rear wheel hub and
the bottom bracket.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
12/16
38.
The correct belt tension is achieved when the belt just touches the top of the chain
stay with one tooth.
39.
Since the tension can vary slightly along the length of the belt, this procedure
should be performed again at intervals along the belt. To do this, rotate the crank by
¼ turn at a time and repeat the measurement.
40.
If necessary, correct the tension and the line of the belt using the axial adjustment
bolts at the dropouts and recheck the belt tension.
41.
Counter the nut on the axial adjustment bolt so that the position of the bolt is fixed.
42.
Tighten the four bolts at the dropouts to a torque of 22 Nm. Hold the shim on the
brake torque support of the left rear stay in position and tighten the bolt to a torque
of 15 Nm.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
13/16
K. Installing the belt guide
43.
Install the belt guide in the slot of the right dropout using a size 5 Allen wrench.
Align it at a distance of 1 –1.5 mm from the back of the belt and tighten the bolt to
a torque of 6 Nm.
L. Adjusting the shift mechanism
44.
Make sure that 1st gear is engaged on the switch.
The small clamping ring on the shift cable acts as a stop for the locating sleeve, and
is therefore an aid so that the shift mechanism does not need to be recalibrated
every time the wheel is removed/ installed. A size 1.5 Allen wrench can be used to
slacken the grub screw and move the clamping ring.
45.
Connect the switch to the rear wheel hub by pushing the locating sleeve onto the
threaded element.
46.
Turn the twist grip to 3rd gear. Turn the crank a little to make sure that the gear is
engaged. The shift cable of the switch must be adjusted without play in gear
position “3,” i.e. it must be pulled all the way out.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
14/16
47.
It must not be possible to pull the shift cable further out of the gear hub by pulling
on the plastic locating sleeve.
If the shift cable has too much play, turn the twist grip to 1st gear. Reduce the
play in the shift cable by turning the adjusting nut on the twist grip.
If the shift cable is too tight/ taut (and the switch cannot be moved to gear
position 3 or the gear hub does not shift to 1st gear or shifts constantly between
1st and 2nd gears), turn the twist grip to 1st gear. Then reduce the tension of the
shift cable with the aid of the adjusting nut on the twist grip.
48.
Turn the twist grip to 3rd gear and check again whether there is any play in the shift
cable. Turn the crank and shift through all the gears several times. When the tension
of the shift cable is correctly adjusted, all the gears can be engaged effortlessly.
M. Aligning the brake caliper
49.
Check that the brake caliper is correctly aligned. If the brake disc is not centered in
the brake caliper slot and rubs when the wheel is turning, then the brake caliper
must be realigned.
50.
Loosen the brake caliper retaining bolts using a size 5 Allen wrench until the brake
caliper can just be moved sideways by hand.
51.
Operate the brake lever several times until the brake pads touch the brake disc and
hold the brake lever in the pulled position.
52.
Tighten the brake caliper retaining bolts alternately and in stages to a torque of 6
Nm.
53.
Release the brake lever and check the alignment of the brake caliper with the brake
disc. If the brake disc is not centered in the brake caliper slot, repeat the procedure.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
15/16
54.
Operate the brake lever several times with the wheel turning. Then check whether
the brake pads on both sides are pulled away from the brake disc and are positioned
parallel to it.
55.
Check that the brake caliper is correctly aligned. If the brake disc is not centered in
the brake caliper slot and rubs when the wheel is turning, then the brake caliper
must be realigned.
N. Installing the belt guard (only on models with belt guard)
Make sure that you do not trap any cables from the bottom bracket shell when installing the kickstand plate.
Only use genuine bolts or, if reinstalling used bolts, apply a drop of thread lock (medium strength, e.g. Loctite 243) to the
thread before reusing.
56.
Bolt the belt guard and the spacer ring loosely onto the battery nest. To do this, use
a T25 Torx wrench.
57.
Insert the two rear bolts of the kickstand plate through the belt guard and through
the spacer rings. Then bolt the parts onto the frame together with the kickstand
plate. Tighten the bolts with a size 5 Allen wrench and a torque of 6 Nm.
58.
Bolt the mounting bracket of the belt guard and the spacer ring onto the rear stay.
To do this, use a T25 angled Torx wrench and tighten the bolt to a torque of 2 Nm.

RL22 - Repair instructions for replacing the rear belt pulley
Version 1.0, last revised 03/2016
16/16
59.
Tighten the threaded connection on the battery nest with a T25 Torx wrench and a
torque of 2 Nm.