Sportsman Aviation POLECAT RACER .40 Instruction Manual

S
SP PO OR RT TS SM MA AN N A AV VI IA AT TI IO ON N
P
PO OL LE EC CA AT T R RA AC CE ER R . .4 40 0
Building Instructions
Thank you for choosing the Pole Cat. Designed after one of the famous pylon racing aircraft, this is one
of the best sport flying and aerobatic fun machines around. The Polecat embodies both speed and
manoeuvrability. This is made possible by its lightweight material and high-quality construction. The
balsa fuselage and fibreglass cowling made for ultra realistic look. This plane is fast and agile. The
Polecat builds easily, quickly, and precisely due to its state of the art CAD design, LASER cut
technology, and outstanding hardware included. Great care has been taken in both the design and
manufacturing of the Pitts, to allow for the strongest and lightest construction possible. Only the highest
quality materials from the covering, paint, wood and hardware have been used in the construction of this
model. The Polecat ARF has been individually hand built, covered and painted by trained and
experienced Craftsmen. Using CAD design, laser cut technology and jig-built assures accuracy in all
stages of production. We hope you enjoy building and flying your own Polecat Racer.
Trust us when we say, with our design you can “feel” the difference!

PAGE 2 OF 27
The Real Polecat Formula 1 Racer:
First place winner and world speed record holder at the 1980
Cleveland National Air Show Formula One race. The "Polecat"
is a Formula One racing airplane built in 1970 by Vince
DeLuca of Mira Leste, California. It is a copy of an earlier
highly successful racing aircraft called "Shoestring", which
initially flew in the 1949 Cleveland National Air Races.
The "Polecat" is part of a group of airplanes that were officially
called the 190 Cubic Inch Class - indicating the maximum size engine permitted. These tiny and
relatively inexpensive airplanes were first introduced at the 1947 Cleveland National Air Races. They
immediately became popular with pilots and spectators alike.
When this aircraft was built it was given the race number 93 and originally called "Rickey Rat". It
campaigned successfully for several racing seasons and was then sold to John Parker in California, who
renamed the plane "Top Turkey". In 1980 it was purchased by Jack Venaleck of Madison, Ohio. For the
1980 racing season the craft was renamed the "Polecat". The "Polecat" is unrestored and appears
exactly as it did in the 1980 Cleveland race. 22
It was acquired by the Crawford Auto-Aviation Collections and Display Committee and the Friends of the
Frederick C. Crawford Auto-Aviation Museum.
CONTENTS
WARRANTY.................................................................................................................................................................3
WARNINGS..................................................................................................................................................................3
CAUTIONS...................................................................................................................................................................4
PRE ASSEMBLY STEPS.............................................................................................................................................4
SAFETY PROCEDURES BEFORE FLIGHT...............................................................................................................6
GETTING READY TO FLY:.........................................................................................................................................8
FIRST FLIGHTS...........................................................................................................................................................9
TIPS FROM THE PRO’S..............................................................................................................................................9
KIT CONTENTS:........................................................................................................................................................11
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE MODEL................................................................................................................12
HINGING AILERONS.................................................................................................................................................13
AILERON PUSH RODS.............................................................................................................................................14
WING JOINNING ASSEMBLY...................................................................................................................................14
TAIL ASSEMBLY.......................................................................................................................................................15
UNDERCARRIAGE....................................................................................................................................................18
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER SERVOS.......................................................................................................................19
PUSH RODS...............................................................................................................................................................19
MOTOR ASSEMBLY .................................................................................................................................................21
FUEL TANK................................................................................................................................................................22
THROTTLE SERVO...................................................................................................................................................23
CANOPY.....................................................................................................................................................................24
RADIO GEAR LOCATION.........................................................................................................................................25
Type: Shoestring K-10 Single Seat Pylon Racer
Powerplant: 150 hp Continental 0-200-12
Performance: Maximum speed Approx. 250 mph
Weights: 525 lb. empty; 800 lb. gross
Dimensions: Span 18 ft. 9 in.; Length 17 ft. 9 in.
The Model Polecat F1 Racer:
Wing span---1280mm
Wing area---32.6dmsq
Flying weight---2500g
Length—1255mm
Radio required—4-5 channel
Motor ---Ma
g
num 46 2stroke

PAGE 3 OF 27
SEALING HINGE JOINS............................................................................................................................................25
PREFLIGHT PREPARATION....................................................................................................................................25
CONTROL THROWS.................................................................................................................................................26
PREFLIGHT CHECKS...............................................................................................................................................27
FLIGHT TESTING ......................................................................................................................................................27
WARNING!!
An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and property damage. Fly only in open areas, and MAAA approved
flying sites. Follow all instructions included with your plane, radio, and engine.
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY BEFORE COMMENCING
This model is not a toy. It is a highly detailed functional scale model. We hope that this product will bring you hours of enjoyment and
entertainment. Due to the sophisticated technical nature of this product, it is important that you carefully review all of the following warnings,
cautions, and warranty terms. Likewise you should review and follow the following instructions for usage.
Due to the fact that Tates Performance Hobbies is constantly improving the quality and functional characteristics of its products some details,
colours, and functions may differ slightly from the images presented on the box and in the instructions.
IMPORTANT!
Before starting the assembly of your new model, please check the box inventory and inspect all parts and hardware for imperfections or
damage. Notify your local hobby shop or Tates Performance Hobbies immediately if there are missing or damaged parts.
Please read through the assembly manual carefully and follow the order of assembly while you are building the aircraft. This will help save time
and reduce the chance of building errors. It is important to notify the place of purchase of any damage or problems with the model immediately
INTENDED USE
This plane should not be regarded as a toy. This is a potentially dangerous flying object and can cause injury to people and damage to property
if an accident occurs or is not used as intended.
If you wish to return this aircraft for any reason a fee may be charged.In addition the customer is responsible for all return shipping cost and all
prior shipping cost will not be refunded. Parts will be exchanged or replaced once the original item is returned at the owner’s expense. If you
have any problems, please contact your place of purchase or Tates Performance Hobbies.
We cannot insure the skill of the modeller and can not influence the builder during the construction or use of this aircraft, therefore, we will not
be accountable for any property damage, bodily injury or death caused by this aircraft.
WARRANTY
Tates Performance Hobbies guarantees that this model is free from defects both in material and craftsmanship on the date of purchase. This
guarantee does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. Tates Performance Hobbies liability will under no
circumstances exceed the original cost of the purchased model. Moreover, Tates Performance Hobbies reserves the right to change or modify
this warranty without notice.
If upon purchasing this product the buyer finds defects to the product as a result of the manufacturing process we recommend that you return
this product to the place of purchase to exchange or refund the product.
Given that Tates Performance Hobbies has no control over the final assembly or use of this product, Tates Performance Hobbies shall assume
no liability for damage caused resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By using this product the user accepts all
resulting liability.
If the purchaser of this product is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised to return this model
within 14 days to the place of purchase. The product must be in complete and unused condition, and must be accompanied with proof and date
or receipt of purchase .
WARNINGS
•Never leave the model in direct sunlight for prolonged periods of time.
•Never fly this model near an AIRPORT, check with your local airport authorities for minimum distance to available sites.
•Never use this model near power lines, radio towers, or other locations where there is known high radio wave or electromagnetic activity.
•Do not allow water or liquid to touch the model or any of the components.
•Store the model in a cool dry location as high humidity can damage the model and its components.
•Protect the model from bumps, jolts, and concussions from other hard objects as this could damage the model.
•Keep the model clean of dust, mud and dirt.
•Never place foreign objects on top of the model.
•Use the model ONLY in wide open spaces that are free of people, or at your local RC flight club.
•NEVER use the model near populated pedestrian areas. This could lead to damage of property or injury to bystanders.
•Prior to take off, always check that transmitter and receiver batteries are fully charged and are fresh. As battery power decreases the
quality of the radio signal diminishes and control over the model could fail.
•Please dispose of used batteries and electronic components in accordance with your municipal and federal Regulations relating to these
types of products.
•Keep in mind that those in your vicinity may also use radio control models. Please check prior to take off that you are using a unique
frequency to all those around you. Not doing so may cause you and others to lose control of the model.
•If the model does not properly respond to control inputs, land immediately and do not attempt to use the model until the cause has been
determined and fixed.
•After flying, switch off the power on the model and then the transmitter.

PAGE 4 OF 27
CAUTIONS
•This product is not suitable for children under 14 years of age, adult supervision of children is highly recommended.
•This kit contains a number of small parts which are fragile and may act as choking hazards.
•Please store and assemble this model well out of the reach of small children.
•Only use batteries of the same or equivalent type.
•The power supply terminals are not to be short-circuited.
•Do not use new and old batteries together. Do not mix different brands or kinds of batteries.
•Make sure to insert batteries with correct (+) and (-) polarity.
•If the aircraft gets wet, dry it, and stop operating to avoid short-circuiting that may cause hazards.
•Do not put fingers, hair, or clothes into the shafts or rotating parts of the model.
•NEVER LEAVE CHARGING BATTERIES UNATTENTED!!!!!!
PRODUCT CONTAINS SMALL PARTS - KEEP AWAY FROM YOUNG CHILDREN
NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER 14 YEARS OF AGE UNLESS SUPERVISED BY AN ADULT
COLORS, SPECIFICATONS AND CHARACTERISTICS MAY BE DIFFERENT FROM PICTURE AND DESCRIPTONS ON THE BOX AND IN
THE MANUAL.
Tates Performance Hobbies may be contacted by E Mail on – [email protected] or Phone [phone]
By choosing to operate this model, the purchaser/operator accepts all responsibility of any and all
structural or mechanical failures.
Preparation and Improvements
There are a few areas where, at this unassembled stage, you can improve the final results of your assembly
project. There are many items that cannot be addressed on the assembly line due to cost and possibly because not
every improvement would be welcomed by every builder. Here are a few items that have come up over time.
Clean out the hinge holes. Without removing any wood, use a very sharp X-acto knife and remove any covering
that may have been pushed into the hinge holes. It is very important that the glue sticks to the wood and not to
the covering.
Hardening holes. The fuselage sides on this plane are made of balsa which in certain areas is doubled by lite
ply.Using wood screws in balsa is difficult because balsa is very soft. It’s a good idea whenever you drill a hole that
must accept a wood screw to put a drop of thin CA into the hole and then if necessary re-drill the hole. The CA
will wick into the wood and harden it, adding strength in that area.
Reinforce the aileron servo trays.
In some cases used 1/4” x 1/8” balsa around the perimeter of the servo mount. Use CA or a good white glue to
put the strips of balsa in. Be sure to trim away any covering so the glue sticks to the wood and not the covering.
PRE ASSEMBLY STEPS
This step is a must. This model uses very lightweight construction. During the long shipping in a closed container
the climate differences can cause the film to over-shrink in some areas causing a warp in some areas. This is a
common occurrence and does not indicate faulty covering or work quality. It is extremely important that you go over
the tail feathers and wings (at the pre assembly stage) and look for any warp or twist in the parts. Place the rudder,
elevator and ailerons on a flat surface to check for any warp. If you find any, counter twist the parts while carefully
using a heat gun, hair dryer or iron to shrink the side with the wrinkles. Do it gradually and keep the heat gun far
enough away to prevent burning the covering.
IMPORTANT If you will be flying your airplane using a standard radio system without mixing capabilities, you will need to
plug a Y-Harness into the two aileron servo leads at this time. This will allow both aileron servos to be plugged into the aileron
channel
in your receiver.
IF YOU WILL BE FLYING YOUR AIRPLANE USING A RADIO WITH MIXING CAPABILITIES, YOU SHOULD PLUG EACH AILERON
SERVO LEAD INTO YOUR RECEIVER SEPARATELY (ONE INTO CH. 1 AND ONE INTO CH. 6) TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF YOUR
RADIO'S MIXING CAPABILITIES.IMPORTANT BALANCE BOTH THE PROPELLER AND THE SPINNER TO ENSURE
VIBRATION-FREE OPERATION.
GOING OVER THE COVERING
Before beginning the assembly of your model remove each part from its bag for inspection. If you find any wrinkles
in the covering, use a covering iron, heat gun or hair dryer to remove them. Keep in mind that this film is much
thinner than Ultra-cote (to reduce the weight of this ARF) so your heat setting should be lowered. Use a very low
heat setting first then increase until the iron is the proper temperature. Use caution while working around areas
where the colours overlap to prevent separation of the colours. Make sure you go over the edges with your iron as
well.

PAGE 5 OF 27
The covering material used on your airplane is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material. It is possible with heat and humidity
changes that the covering material on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material.
To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to use a heat-sealing covering iron.
Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:
Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the sealing iron to heat up for approximately
5 - 7 minutes.
After the sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering material. Move
the sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering material tightens and the wrinkles disappear.
IMPORTANT You will notice that the colour of the covering material will darken when it is heated. When the covering
material cools back down, it will return to its normal colour. If the colour layer smears from any of the seams the temperature
of the sealing iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down and wait about 5 minutes for the sealing iron to adjust to the
lower temperature. You can remove any excess colour streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.
Make sure to test-fit the parts together before applying glue. This will ensure that the parts fit properly before gluing them
together.
When gluing anything that has a smooth surface, its important to lightly roughen the gluing surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper.
This will allow the glue to stick better. Also, never glue directly to the covering material. Always remove the covering material
from the
gluing surfaces prior to gluing the parts together.
When cutting away the covering material from the gluing surfaces, be careful to cut only through the covering material. Try not
to cut down into the balsa structure because that can compromise the integrity of the airframe.
We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any
length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and possibly damage the fragile
components of the
radio control system.
Epoxy can be cleaned up before it dries using rubbing alcohol, and C/A can be cleaned up before it dries using C/A Debonder
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE C/A-STYLE HINGES INCLUDED WITH YOUR AIRPLANE
The airplane uses C/A-style hinges to hinge the control surfaces. These hinges are designed to be glued into place using thin
C/A. Do not glue the hinges into place using any other type of glue, such as thick C/A or epoxy. Use of any adhesive other
than thin C/A could result in failure of the hinges during flight.
For flutter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is
achieved by having a tight hinge gap (no more than 1/32" (.7mm) wide) and using plenty of thin C/A glue. Poor hinge
installation can lead to control surface flutter, which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe.
IF THE HINGE(S) CAN'T BE PUSHED IN FAR ENOUGH TO ACHIEVE THE PROPER HINGE GAP, YOU'LL NEED TO USE
A MODELING KNIFE TO CUT THE HINGE SLOT(S) DEEPER.
MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE INTEGRITY OF THE HINGES AFTER THE C/A FULLY CURES.
IMPORTANT It is imperative that the aileron and elevator hinge gaps be sealed. Failure to do this can lead to control surface
flutter, which can cause your airplane to crash. Sealing the hinge gaps will also provide crisper control response and allow
the airplane to track straighter and fly truer, making trimming much easier.
Its not as necessary to seal the rudder hinge gap.
CONTROL SURFACE LINKAGES
If you don't maintain the proper mechanical advantage on the control surfaces, control surface flutter may result, which can
cause your airplane to lose control and crash. Mechanical advantage refers to the distance that the pushrod attachment
points (pivot points) are from the servos and the control surfaces.
Keeping the pushrods as close to the centre of the servo arms as possible will increase the servo's resolution. What this
means is that when you move the control sticks on the transmitter, the servo arms will have to travel farther to achieve the
desired amount of control input. This makes the resolution higher, therefore causing the control surface deflection to be more
precise. We don't recommend moving the pushrods any farther away from the centre of the servo arms than absolutely
necessary.
Keeping the pushrods as far away as possible from the control surfaces is better than moving them closer. The mechanical
advantage is greatly reduced the closer the pushrods are moved toward the control surfaces. We don't recommend moving the
pushrods any closer to the control surfaces than absolutely necessary.
Make sure that you've installed 1/4" long pieces of silicone fuel tubing over the devises and snap-keepers to prevent any chance
of them opening during flight.

PAGE 6 OF 27
If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for your first few
flights.
Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.
Motor: The motor should run smoothly at all power settings with smooth transition from low to high RPM. Do not
fly with an unreliable motor. Completely read motor instructions before flying.
Flight Controls: Ensure all flight controls are free from binding and are cantered. Check all hinges are tight and
will not pull out. Control linkages must be rigid and tight and have no slop. Confirm proper direction of ailerons,
rudder and elevator. Experienced flyers have lost airplanes due to reversed ailerons. Right roll is right aileron up
and left aileron down. Left roll is left aileron up and right aileron down.
Motor: The motor should run smoothly at all power settings with smooth transition from low to high RPM. Do not
fly with an unreliable motor. Completely read motor instructions before flying.
Flight Controls: Ensure all flight controls are free from binding and are cantered. Check all hinges are tight and
will not pull out. Control linkages must be rigid and tight and have no slop. Confirm proper direction of ailerons,
rudder and elevator. Experienced flyers have lost airplanes due to reversed ailerons. Right roll is right aileron up
and left aileron down. Left roll is left aileron up and right aileron down.
SETTING THE CONTROL THROWS
We recommend initially setting up the airplane using the Test Flying/Sport Flying control throws. These control throws are
suggested for initial test flying and general sport flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it
easier to control. For 3D flying, use the 3D Flying control throws, but only AFTER you've become very familiar with the flight
characteristics of the airplane using the Test Flying/Sport Flying control throws and only after setting up the airplane as
described in this section.
Centre of Gravity: Check CG is set properly.
Turn the airplane upside down, place your fingers on the wing at the balance point, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of
the airplane drops, the airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver back far enough to bring
the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane drops, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or
receiver forward far enough to bring the airplane into balance. Because of the limited space to move the receiver and/or battery
fore and aft, you may also need to add weight to the tail or the nose to balance the airplane. When balanced correctly, the
airplane should sit level
or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers
Balance the airplane with the fuel tank empty.
PRE FLIGHT CHECKS
Batteries: Make sure Transmitter and receiver/motor batteries are fully charged before each flight. Also double
check before each take off.
Fasteners: Check all motor screws, prop nuts, servo screws, control horns, wheel collars, and clevis keepers are
tight and secure.
Radio: Check trims set to neutral and controls cantered. Check rate and condition switches set properly. Check
the receiver antenna is fully extended.
SAFETY PROCEDURES BEFORE FLIGHT
Before each flight check your transmitter and flight pack battery for proper charge levels
to make sure you attain maximum flight time and safety. Always switch on your
transmitter first and move the right hand throttle stick to the low throttle position to avoid
accidentally starting the motor. Then only connect the plane battery to the aircraft when
you are going to fly. Match the red and black wires up correctly. When you have finished
the flight, unplug the LiPo flight battery before turning off the transmitter. If the plane
battery is connected without the transmitter being on, it can pick up signals from other
radio transmitters and cause your plane to respond unintentionally, controls will start to
move as well as the motor revving up! This is not a malfunction of the system, but a standard behaviour for all radio
controlled models.
Before turning on your transmitter, make sure no other people are flying other aircraft on the same frequency you
are using. This will cause interference and result in crashing the other pilot’s aircraft. The frequency of your model

PAGE 7 OF 27
may be determined by looking at the small orange label attached to the module in the back of the transmitter. It will
show a number, this the frequency of your radio in Mhz. make sure you do not operate the model when another
model of any type, or R/C car is on this frequency.
After switching on your transmitter and plane check the positions of the control surfaces on your plane. Initially they
all should be in a neutral position. Adjust to the correct position when needed by turning the “kwick link” connectors
attached to the push rods which operate the control surfaces.
Check if the controls are moving in the correct direction for the directions the sticks are moved. Do this for ALL
control surfaces! See transmitter setup below.
Avoid flying in bad weather conditions. Since you are flying a relatively light aircraft, it is not recommended to fly in
high winds as the plane can travel downwind very quickly and become very difficult to retrieve!
Always keep the aircraft within visual range. It is very important that you can see which direction the plane is going.
Also keep the plane away from people and objects.
If you notice that the plane is starting to loose power then it is suggested you land and recharge the LiPo pack. If
you continue flying and the power is suddenly lost, it will be hard to control and land the plane in a controlled
manner and could result in a crash and damage to the plane! The battery may also be damaged if it is over
discharged.
You can only become a good pilot if you realise that it is most important to operate your aircraft in a secure and
responsible manner. An out of control aircraft can cause damage to people and property!
Mode 1 –
The left stick - 2, moved forward and back, gives down and up
elevator, forward for dive and back for climb; moved left and
right – 4 it gives left and right rudder.
The right stick - 3, moved forward and back gives high and low
throttle; 1 - moved left and right it controls the ailerons, giving
left and right bank.
Checking Control Surfaces for Correct Direction of Travel – VERY IMPORTANT :
The direction the model will go, depends on the direction the control surfaces move when you move the stick on
the transmitter. Please check that the Ailerons ( wings ) and the Elevator ( Tail ) work in accordance with the
following diagrams.
diagrams.

PAGE 8 OF 27
Receiver instructions:
The receiver antenna is best fully extended and routed away from other wires where
practical. Run the antenna out of the fuselage and up to the top of the fin for best
results. Use some tape to hold in place.
DO NOT shorten, cut or roll up the antenna as this will reduce the range of control.
If using a 2.4 Ghz Receiver – install as per the manufacturers instructions.
GETTING READY TO FLY:
Always ensure that the transmitter is switched on, that the antenna is extended fully , that the throttle lever is set at
its lowest point ( stick to the bottom on the gimbal ) and the model is being held securely before connecting the
battery, this will prevent unexpected start ups which could cause injury.
OK, so having done that, the battery can be placed in its compartment under the nose and its red plug connected
to the socket inside. After a pause you will hear some “beeping” telling you that the battery, the electronic speed
control and the motor are all in communication. When the beeping stops, slowly advancing the throttle will cause
the motor to start and continue to speed up until full throttle is reached.
Having checked the motor, stop it by bringing the throttle lever back to full low and then, by moving the elevator,
aileron and rudder sticks, check that all surfaces move in the correct direction and by the required amount. If any of
these move in the wrong direction – Check the radio manufacturers manual for the reversing switches, which may
be able to correct the problem.
With the trims, (they are the small sliders alongside the sticks), in the central position, check that the ailerons,
rudder and elevator are properly aligned; if not, make adjustments to the appropriate clevises. Having the surfaces
properly aligned with the trims in the central position will ensure that the model on its first flight will be near to being
“in trim” and any minor out of trim condition will then be correctable by use of the trim sliders. You may wish to
engage the assistance of a modeller with some R/C experience to guide you through this all important phase and
also to cast his eye over the model to ensure all is correct.
The first task is to range check the radio equipment. Go to an area clear of trees and metal fences, like the middle
of a sports field to ensure clear reception.
Checking Radio Range
The range of this radio set is about 300 to 400 metres. Before your first flight, it is a necessary to check whether
you will have sufficient radio range to maintain control of the model. This is achieved by getting a helper to hold the
plane while you walk away from the plane, with the radio control and plane both turned on and the aerial on the
transmitter fully down. With everything set up correctly you should be able to walk 20 to 30 paces away before the
servos begin to twitch around. If you only achieve a short distance before erratic behaviour of the servos or motor
then you must not fly. Check out and rectify the problem before attempting to fly. Re-routing the aerial away from
the battery and servo / motor leads will often help, or low batteries may be the course!
This can all be done on a day while you are waiting for the best weather and an experienced radio flyer is available
to give you a hand.
LIMITATIONS OF FLYING AREAS :
Only fly your plane in areas that are suitable or selected for remote controlled aircraft. You must realise that certain
public areas are not allowed to be used for flying remote controlled aircraft. Check with your local Council for
approval before flying on sports ovals or parkland!
Keep your plane away from high power/ high voltage cables as they can cause interference of the radio control
system. Interference can result in loosing control of your plane, ultimately leading to a crash.
Don’t fly over or towards spectators or their vehicles. Don’t fly over buildings or houses. Fly where there is enough
space to safely land anywhere in the surrounding area. Don’t fly where there are lots of trees in the area. ( trees
are magnets to model aeroplanes!)
Stay away from busy roads. Flying in these areas can distract drivers and lead to an accident.

PAGE 9 OF 27
Don’t fly within a 6 kilometre radius of any airport or where full sized aircraft are flying.
FIRST FLIGHTS
It will be VERY helpful if you are able to obtain help from an experienced model pilot during your first flights. It is a
very good idea to find a model club in your area or at least someone that can fly RC planes. They can help with the
final setup and flight testing of your plane. Making sure it is an enjoyable experience and not a disaster!
Flying a radio controlled model aircraft is difficult, due to the good hand to eye co-ordination required. Good
eyesight is needed to see what the model is doing and a basic knowledge of the theory of flight is useful.
Practice – like anything worthwhile is required to master the skills for the hobby.
Accidents DO occur and damage WILL be caused to the model when this happens. So if you are not prepared to
accept this – do not attempt to fly this model.
That is the bad news ! But the development of new and exciting skills and the enjoyment of seeing your own radio
controlled model obeying your every command is well worth it !!
This is a great hobby for all ages and abilities, so ENJOY !!
Now, if the day has arrived when there is practically no breeze and you have found an area about the same size as
a football oval with a smooth surface, place the model on the ground, facing directly into that slight breeze and
have your helper hold it.
After checking again that the control surfaces are moving in the correct direction, extend the transmitter antenna,
give your helper the nod and start your take off by slowly advancing the throttle to full power, at the same time
holding in some up elevator to prevent a nose-dive and being ready to apply aileron to correct any tendency to roll .
Unless you have a long smooth surface to take off from – you are probably best to “hand launch” the smaller type
electric powered models with the help of a friend. Some of these models are not designed to take off from grass,
only smooth hard surfaces.
Hand launching is a good method to get your model airborne as there is less risk of getting caught up in holes Etc.
in the runway.
Have a helper fold the model above their head, gripping the fuselage around the middle, so it is evenly balanced.
While facing into any wind, run forward and “push” the model forward and slightly down so the model can attain
flying speed quickly. Do not “throw” the model as this can cause an unstable launch.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH LARGER NITRO AND GAS POWERED MODELS.
Once airborne and at about 100 feet altitude, commence your first turn by the application of aileron ( Right hand
stick ) and a small amount of up elevator ( pull back on the Left hand stick ) to hold the nose into the turn. If you
find that the model is getting too high, reduce throttle, then continue making turns left and right to familiarise
yourself with its flight characteristics, keeping the model within clear view at a distance of no more than 200 metres.
After a few minutes you’ll be ready to land, so reduce the throttle setting to about 10% and prepare to land into the
breeze at the end of a sweeping 180 degree approach, being ready to increase power if you are about to land
short, or reduce it further if the model is about to overshoot.
TIPS FROM THE PRO’S
If you have a computer flight simulator, it is a good idea to practice with it before actually flying the model.
It is a good idea to taxi the plane around on the ground with a moderate amount of throttle. This will help you get
use to the rudder ground controls.
You must learn to use only gentle movements of the controls. When using proportional radio control systems, only
slight corrections are necessary to change the direction of the plane.
Do not push the joysticks to maximum deflection for more than a couple of seconds. This can result in a crash!
It is a very good idea to find a model club in your area or at least someone that can fly RC planes. They can help
with the final setup and flight testing of your plane. Making sure it is an enjoyable experience and not a disaster!
Take off and land into the wind. Always try to keep the model in front of you.
Extra motor batteries are available – so one can be charging while flying with the other. After market chargers are
available to make charge times faster.
Trimming Chart

PAGE 10 OF 27
After you have test-flown and made the initial trim changes to the airplane, use this trimming chart to begin trimming your airplane.
Following this chart will result in the ability to diagnose trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments
shown below. Making these observations and related corrections will result in an airplane that tracks straighter and flies truer.
TRIM FEATURE MANEUVER OBSERVATION CORRECTION
Control Centering Fly general circles and random
maneuvers Try for hands off straight and level flight Readjust linkages so the transmitter trim levers are centered
Control Throws Fly random maneuvers
A
) Controls are too sensitive or
airplane feels "jerky"
B) Controls are not sensitive enough
or airplane feels "mushy"
If A) Adjust linkages to reduce
control throws
If B) Adjust linkages to increase
control throws
Engine Thrust Angle* From straight and level flight, quickly
chop the throttle for a short distance
A
) Airplane continues in a level
attitude for a short distance
B) Airplane pitches nose up
C) Airplane pitches nose down
If A) Engine thrust angle is correct
If B) Decrease engine down thrust
If C) Increase engine down thrust
Center of Gravity From level flight, roll to a 45° bank and
neutralize the controls
A
) Airplane continues in the bank for
a short distance
B) Nose pitches up
C) Nose pitches down
If A) Center of gravity is correct
If B) Add nose weight
If C) Remove nose weight or add tail
weight
Yaw** Into the wind, perform inside loops
using only elevator. Repeat test
performing outside loops from an
inverted entry.
A
) Wing is level throughout
B) Airplane yaws to right in both inside
and outside loops
C) Airplane yaws to left in both inside
and outside loops
D) Airplane yaws to the right in inside
loops and yaws to the left in
outside loops
E) Airplane yaws to the left in inside
loops and yaws to the right in
outside loops.
If A) Trim settings are correct
If B) Add left rudder trim
If C) Add right rudder trim
If D) Add left aileron trim
If E) Add right aileron trim
Lateral Balance** Into the wind, perform tight inside loops
using only elevator
A
) Wing is level and airplane falls
to either side
B) Airplane falls off to the left.
Worsens as loops tighten
C) Airplane falls off to the right.
Worsens as loops tighten
If A) Lateral balance is correct
If B) Add weight to right wing tip
If C) Add weight to left wing tip
Aileron Control System With the wing level, pull to a vertical
climb and neutralize the controls
A
) Climb continues along the same
path
B) Nose tends to go toward an inside
loop
C) Nose tends to go toward an
outside loop
If A) Trim settings are correct
If B) Raise both ailerons very slightly
If C) Lower both ailerons very slightly
*Engine thrust angle and center of gravity interact. Check both.
'''Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Right and left references are as if you were in the cockpit.

PAGE 11 OF 27
KIT CONTENTS:
Features
•Laser-cut balsa and ply construction
•Built-up fuselage
•Two piece built-up bolt-on wings
•Fibre glass cowl and wheel pants
•Landing gear
•Pre-slotted C/A hinges.
•Hardware pack—bolts, nuts, lock nuts, C/A hinges
•Durable, lightweight landing wheels
•Linkages and control horns.
Plane Specs
Wingspan: 51 in/1280mm
Wing Area: 32.6 sq dm / 502 sq in
Flying Weight: 2300g ~ 2500g
Engine Size: 2c 0.35-0.55 in (Not Included)
4c 0.52 cu in
Radio: 5 channels (Not Included)
Servos: 5 standard servos (Not Included)

PAGE 12 OF 27
ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE MODEL
Motor
Magnum 46 or 52 four stroke. Recommended
Propeller
(XOAR 12x4) Recommended
TY 63mm white spinner
Radio System
2 x aileron servos
1 x rudder servo
1 x elevator servo
Standard size servos recommended
Receiver
4-7 channel Recommended
Optional
TY Hinge Tape
Tools:
•Modeling knife.
•Electric drill and selection of bits.
•Phillips screwdriver.
•Needle nose pliers.
•Wire Cutters.
•Pins.
•Ruler and tape measure.
•Pen, pencil or felt tipped marker.
•Flat building board.
•Building squares and blocks.
•Masking tape.
•Clear tape (optional).
•TY Allen keys.
•TY Z bender.
•TY 30min epoxy
Mercury Adhesives:
•Thin CA (M5T)
•High Performance CA (M100XF)
•CA kicker (optional)
•Mercury Teflon tips.

PAGE 13 OF 27
HINGING AILERONS
Place a pin though the centre of all the
hinges.
Slide the hinges into the ailerons up to the
pin half way.
If the hinges are too tight, slightly widen the
slot with a hobby knife.
Slide the aileron on to the wing.
Remove the pin and butt the aileron up
tight.
Check to see if you can get full deflection of
aileron with a minimum hinge gap.
Centre the aileron on the wing.
Glue the hinges in place with thin C/A.
WING SERVO
Locate the aileron servo opening that is
covered by film and cut an opening for the
aileron servo in the bottom of the wing.
Remove covering with a hot wire or hobby
knife.
Use a hot wire to cut the covering away
from the slot in the servo cover.
Set the servo arm 90 degrees to the
servo.
Connect a TY 100mm servo extension to
the servo lead.
Place TY safety lock in place.
Use pointy nose plies to pull the string out
of the servo hole and tape to the servo
extension.
Now pull the extension through the wing
until servo sits in place.
(A pin vice is a good tool to use with the
small drill bit for drilling a pilot hole for the
servo plate screws).
Insert the servo in place so the output arm
is closes to the front of the wing.
Secure servo with self tappers supplied.

PAGE 14 OF 27
AILERON PUSH RODS
Fit control horn in line with servo arm.
Fit push rod Z bend end to the servo arm.
Thread the clevis on to the other end.
Repeat process for other side.
WING JOINNING ASSEMBLY
Cut away the excess covering that overlaps onto the root rib of
each wing panel.
Leave about 2mm overlap so it does not pull away.
Locate and draw a vertical centre line on each side of the wing
joiner.
Test fit the wing joiner into each wing panel to see if it slides in
easily into each wing panel up to the
centre line.
If the wing joiner is to tight use sand
paper until a snug fit is obtained.
Trial fit the two wings together before
gluing to make sure they line up ok
and there is no gap. If there is a gap
sand or pack up to rectify.
Apply TY 30 minute epoxy glue to
both sides of the wing rib and the
wing joiner.
Push the wings together up tight and
clamp.
Wipe away excess epoxy with
mentholated spirits on a rag.
Set aside till dry.
When dry fit wing to fuselage and bolt
in position.
Measure from the wing tips to the tail.
If the measurements are not the
same re drill the wing bolt holes
till the wing sits on the fuselage
equally.
Use hobby knife to cut the
covering on the top of the wing
where the wing bolt doubler
goes.
Apply hight performace mercury
glue to the wing and place
doubler in place and clamp till
dry.

PAGE 15 OF 27
TAIL ASSEMBLY
Stablizer assembly
Slide stabilizer into the fuselage.
Measure from the side of fuselage to the
tip of stabilizer on both sides and adjust
the stabilizer until measurements are
equal.
Measure from wing tip to stabilizer on
both sides and adjust until equal.
Place tape on each side of the stabilizer
top and bottom were the fuselage joins
the stabilizer.
Remove stabilizer from plane.
Use a hobby knife and a ruler to remove
the covering in-between the tape.
Slide stabilizer back into fuselage. Remeasure from wing tip to stabilizer and stabilizer to fuselage. Align equally.
Now align the stabilizer to the wing until it is parallel. You
may have to pack with balsa or mach sticks until it aligns.
Refer to picture.
When satisfied with all the measurements, glue stabilizer in place with thin mercury CA or 30min epoxy.

PAGE 16 OF 27
Elevator assembly
Locate the hinges for the elevator.
Place a T pin through the centre of them.
Slide the hinges in to the elevator halves. If
they are tight to get into the slots slide a
hobby knife in to slightly enlarge the hole.
Now insert the elevator into the stabilizer and
glue hinges in place with thin C/A.
Ensure the fuselage is level so the C/A runs
into the hinge attachment area.
You should leave enough of a hinge gap to
allow for full deflection but no more than is
necessary for full deflection.
It should be a little less than a credit card
thickness.
Now move the elevator up and down to make
sure there is fluid movement and not binding.
Fin assembly
Remove the balsa block from the back of
the fin slot this is here to prevent damage
in transport and not a part of the plane.
Slot fin all the way down in to the fuselage
slot.
Now place tape on the fin where it joins to
the fuselage.
Remove fin from fuselage and cut
covering along the tape with hobby knife
and ruler.
Remove covering.
Replace fin back into the fuselage.
Measure from top of fin to the end of the
stabilizer to make sure it is 90 degrees to
the stabilizer.
Also looking at the tail from the front of
the plane.
You can check that the fin and
stabilizer is square to each other.
The wings should be parallel to the stabilizer as well.

PAGE 17 OF 27
Rudder assembly
Locate the hinges for the rudder.
Place a T pin through them as you did
for the elevator.
Slide the hinges into the rudder then
slide the rudder into the fin.
Remove T pins from hinges.
Check to see if you have full rudder
deflection with a little as possible hinge
gap.
Place plane on its side and apply thin
C/A to the hinges on both sides.
TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY
Now install the tail wheel in to the rudder.
Mark were the tail wheel steering wire lines up
on the bottom of the rudder.
Make sure the vertical tail wheel wire or
hinging point of the tail wheel is in line with the
hinge line otherwise the rudder will jam on full
deflection.
Drill a hole the same size as the steering wire
in to the bottom of the rudder as deep as
needed to be.
Dry fit the steering wire in to the hole drilled.
Mark were the holes for the tail wheel plate on
the fuselage.
Drill a pilot hole for the self tappers to hold the
tail wheel plate on.
Dry fit the tail wheel assembly and secure with
self tappers.
Make sure you can still get full rudder
deflection.
If not move the tail wheel assembly until you
can.
To secure apply medium C/A to steering wire
replace back on rudder and secure with self tappers.

PAGE 18 OF 27
UNDERCARRIAGE
Installing the landing gear, axles, wheels and wheel pants and then attach
to the bottom of the fuselage.
The axle, axle bolts, washers and nuts are attached as shown.
Slide the bolt though the undercarriage leg.
Now place 2 nuts on to the bolt and tighten.
Now slide wheel on to bolt.
Followed by a lock nut.
Tighten the lock nut up to the wheel but
not too tight that the wheel can’t spin.
Cut off the excess bolt length.
Now slide the wheel pants over the
double nuts.
When in position drill a pilot hole in to
wheel pant and hold in position with self
tapper.
Remove covering from the side of the
fuselage where the undercarriage legs
slide through.
Slide the undercarriage legs through the
fuselage in to position.
Screw the six fine thread bolts supplied
into the undercarriage to secure.

PAGE 19 OF 27
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER SERVOS
Cut servo arm in to a half arm.
Fit servo arm on to servo at 90 degrees.
Drill a pilot hole for each servo screw.
Secure servo in to position.
Repeat process for the other servo.
Refer to photo as a reference for location.
PUSH RODS
Set the servos at 90 degrees.
Use the supplied push rods.
The push rod with the Y at one
end goes to the elevator horns.
The straight push rod is for the
rudder.
Open the covering up to allow the push rod to exit the fuselage with a hot
wire.
Push the elevator and rudder push rod through the fuselage to the tail.
When the push rods are through the fuselage thread the supplied
clevises on.
Connect the other end to the servo and secure with supplied quick clips.

PAGE 20 OF 27
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER HORN
ATTACHMENT
Locate control horn.
Hold in position on
elevator in line with
the push rod and
on the edge of the
hinge line.
Drill two holes
with a pin vice
drill. Place the
bolts through
and fit
backing plate
and tighten.
Trim the excess bolt length off with side cutters.
Apply a small amount of thin C/A on to the backing plate bolts to lock in position.
Repeat process for Rudder horn.
Tip
It is a good idea to go around all glue joint in the fuselage with the high performance (M100XF) glue for added
strength.